I just recently bought a Mazda 626 with 173,000 miles. All of your videos have been super helpful for to me while I clean and tune it up. First car I've ever worked on deeper than air filters. Anyways, thank you for sharing your experience with the Mazda 626. It is very inspiring to me.
DJDevon3 thank you for ur videos, they're very informative, to the point that my friend and i (both women) were able to refurbished our mazda 626's engine by ourselves. The only help we needed was with the head, we had to take it to a shop to make sure it was good and leveled. It took us a while to get it done cuz the weather here in south florida is crazy hot!!! Thank you again, we couldn't have done this project without you!!!
gorditabioful Wow! Anything I left out in the videos that might have helped you better? Congratulations on doing a head gasket job by yourself! I know how daunting it is. That's amazing. Thank you for taking the time out of your day to let me know. Made me feel like a million bucks. :)
***** I actually appreciate that you even included the couple of mistakes you made and you just didn't erase them nor edited your videos, otherwise we would have made the same mistakes ourselves. We need some help with the idle though, ever since we had the car running again, the idle hesitates and I cannot find the problem, I tried everything you tried on your videos to fix the problem and nothing seems to work completely, only little things improve here and there but the car is not running as fast as it used to, couple of performance issues but still would like to have the car working at its best. Any ideas? Pls?
gorditabioful Here's what I recommend and what I wish I would have done after my rebuild. Take it to a professional garage and have them smoke test your intake system for vacuum leaks, compression test, fuel pressure test, and put a timing light on it for a tune up. Had I done those things I probably would have had a great running car years ago. It would have been worth the cost of a professional to save years of my own attempts. That doesn't mean I didn't still need the rebuild since I had burnt valves and compression loss. I didn't get a fuel pressure tester until 2 years later. I had a faulty torque converter, vacuum leak, and low fuel pressure from a faulty fuel pump. I hit the triple-whammy of issues. Had I ensure someone tested those things for me (since I didn't have the tools to do it) I might have saved myself years of frustration. A compression test to verify your head rebuild would be a good idea. I did have a compression gauge afterward to verify my repair and the results were better than I'd hoped. Make sure you verify your rebuild with a compression test. Having a car that runs and one that runs great are two different worlds. Get those things done.
Gracias por el cumplido mi amigo. Significa mucho para mí para mantener toda Mazda 626 de la carretera y en buen estado. Cada vez que usted tiene una pregunta que siempre estoy disponible.
I have yet to get around to redoing the head gasket. As you might have guessed from all of my other videos I ended up focusing on other things after the head rebuild such as transmission swap. I will get back to the head gasket in the future for sure, hopefully this summer.
Where were you when I was doing the rebuild?!?! Could have used that insight at the time. I read 16ft-lbs in the manual and must have completely forgot the rest. Now I might be dealing with a blown head gasket and another tear down. :(
Factory manual says they can be reused if they are not stretched. I have a video that shows measuring my head bolts and showing they can be reused. Actually here we are 3 years later and my re-used head bolts are holding up just fine. :) th-cam.com/video/AmC8qLLxVxk/w-d-xo.html
***** Yes I read that too but every mechanic I have spoken to said "replace them". A set only cost $AUD30. Did you re-torque them after you discovered the 90 deg thing?
Peter Jenner No by that time it was too late. I would have needed to remove the cams for the 4th time during that build. Said screw it. Thankfully, still holding up just fine to this day. :)
Hola buena me encantan tus videos tengo una consulta tengo un mazda 626 1993 2.0 te go problemas con el calado de la correa de tiempo si me puede ayudar
DJDevon3 , You are awesome man , love your videos , i have a mazda 626 1996 , fix the motor seals by watching your videos , I have a question, I have a water leak right where you are pointing in this video, sec 0:03, I don¨t know how that pipe is holded there cause the leak in where they are conected , any advice !!! greeting from Monterrey Mexico !!Pardon my poor English !!
Eduardo Vazquez Hola! Your English is perfect. :) The two pipes behind the exhaust manifold are called "coolant bypass pipes" by Mazda. They are prone to rusting through and leaking due to the heat cycles put onto it being so close to the exhaust manifold (very hot). It is possible to remove the bypass pipes without removing the exhaust manifold but it will make your life much easier if you remove the exhaust manifold first. Drain the coolant from the engine first. Those bypass pipes will be filled with coolant and will surely make a mess if you don't drain the coolant first. Find replacements on eBay, local junkyard, or Mazda dealership (JimEllisMazdaParts.com). They do have rubber O-rings that need to be replaced too. If it's leaking where the pipe connects to something else then it could just be a leaking O-ring. I've seen the pipes rust away in the middle of the pipe too which means the pipe has to be replaced. If you replace the pipes don't forget to order the O-ring that goes with it!
Eduardo Vazquez Here's a diagram. The part #'s in the diagram are not official part #'s they are references. The official part #'s are on the right side of the site in blue rectangular boxes. www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=299200&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14346&modelYear=1996&ukey_category=20284 So in your case you are either looking for part # FSM315270A or part # FS0115290C. The O-ring is part # E30115287
hey i am guessing you have a mazda 626 fourms and i have a question about my 626 my car hesaitates when i try to accelerate but its not all the time and sometimes when i am driving when i hit the brake my cd player will shut off and turn back on
At the time of this video it is a U.S. 1995 Automatic version. It's since been converted to manual transmission of which I have an entire series on converting from automatic to manual.
Watch my head removal and reassembly series (playlist available). It's filled with pointers. The only thing that happened that I didn't get to record was messing up the dowel pin. When you get the head off make sure to remove the dowel pins immediately and not get them messed up. I mangled a dowel pin and now I have to go back in a redo the whole job because oil is leaking down the back of the engine from improper seating of the dowel pin. New dowel pins from a dealership (still available) are like $7 each and there's only 2 of them. The dowel pins are what allows the head to seat to the block properly. The are like guide pins except they are hollow and have oil flowing through them. Keep them in perfect condition. Also when you remove the head bolts each head bolt has a washer. They like to stay in the head covered with oil. When I flip the head over and something falls out that's what fell out. There is 1 washer for each head bolt.
I don't drive it much but still going in 2021 with that head gasket replacement if that's what you mean. The whole head reassembly video series was a success. :)
After hand tightening the head bolts you torque them down at 15 ft lbs in the proper sequence. Then using a breaker bar you tighten them 90 degrees more in the same sequence and then another 90 degrees. This is a very critical part of head gasket replacements. You failed this video for proper torque demonstration. 👌🏽
I measured the block surface with feeler gauge and straight edge as is described in the workshop manual. Everything was within spec. The head however was not. This was 6 years ago and the engine is fine. Simmer down now. ;)
I just recently bought a Mazda 626 with 173,000 miles. All of your videos have been super helpful for to me while I clean and tune it up. First car I've ever worked on deeper than air filters. Anyways, thank you for sharing your experience with the Mazda 626. It is very inspiring to me.
DJDevon3 thank you for ur videos, they're very informative, to the point that my friend and i (both women) were able to refurbished our mazda 626's engine by ourselves. The only help we needed was with the head, we had to take it to a shop to make sure it was good and leveled. It took us a while to get it done cuz the weather here in south florida is crazy hot!!! Thank you again, we couldn't have done this project without you!!!
gorditabioful Wow! Anything I left out in the videos that might have helped you better? Congratulations on doing a head gasket job by yourself! I know how daunting it is. That's amazing. Thank you for taking the time out of your day to let me know. Made me feel like a million bucks. :)
***** I actually appreciate that you even included the couple of mistakes you made and you just didn't erase them nor edited your videos, otherwise we would have made the same mistakes ourselves. We need some help with the idle though, ever since we had the car running again, the idle hesitates and I cannot find the problem, I tried everything you tried on your videos to fix the problem and nothing seems to work completely, only little things improve here and there but the car is not running as fast as it used to, couple of performance issues but still would like to have the car working at its best. Any ideas? Pls?
gorditabioful Here's what I recommend and what I wish I would have done after my rebuild. Take it to a professional garage and have them smoke test your intake system for vacuum leaks, compression test, fuel pressure test, and put a timing light on it for a tune up. Had I done those things I probably would have had a great running car years ago. It would have been worth the cost of a professional to save years of my own attempts. That doesn't mean I didn't still need the rebuild since I had burnt valves and compression loss. I didn't get a fuel pressure tester until 2 years later. I had a faulty torque converter, vacuum leak, and low fuel pressure from a faulty fuel pump. I hit the triple-whammy of issues. Had I ensure someone tested those things for me (since I didn't have the tools to do it) I might have saved myself years of frustration. A compression test to verify your head rebuild would be a good idea. I did have a compression gauge afterward to verify my repair and the results were better than I'd hoped. Make sure you verify your rebuild with a compression test. Having a car that runs and one that runs great are two different worlds. Get those things done.
muchísimas gracias por el tiempo que le dedicas a tus suscriptores y a tu canal déjame decirte que todos tus vídeos son muy interesantes gracias....
Gracias por el cumplido mi amigo. Significa mucho para mí para mantener toda Mazda 626 de la carretera y en buen estado. Cada vez que usted tiene una pregunta que siempre estoy disponible.
I have yet to get around to redoing the head gasket. As you might have guessed from all of my other videos I ended up focusing on other things after the head rebuild such as transmission swap. I will get back to the head gasket in the future for sure, hopefully this summer.
Great specs and great video mate.
Where were you when I was doing the rebuild?!?! Could have used that insight at the time. I read 16ft-lbs in the manual and must have completely forgot the rest. Now I might be dealing with a blown head gasket and another tear down. :(
Always use new head bolts when using angular torquing. I learned that last week. ;)
Factory manual says they can be reused if they are not stretched. I have a video that shows measuring my head bolts and showing they can be reused. Actually here we are 3 years later and my re-used head bolts are holding up just fine. :) th-cam.com/video/AmC8qLLxVxk/w-d-xo.html
***** Yes I read that too but every mechanic I have spoken to said "replace them". A set only cost $AUD30.
Did you re-torque them after you discovered the 90 deg thing?
Peter Jenner No by that time it was too late. I would have needed to remove the cams for the 4th time during that build. Said screw it. Thankfully, still holding up just fine to this day. :)
***** Good to hear.
Hola buena me encantan tus videos tengo una consulta tengo un mazda 626 1993 2.0 te go problemas con el calado de la correa de tiempo si me puede ayudar
DJDevon3 , You are awesome man , love your videos , i have a mazda 626 1996 , fix the motor seals by watching your videos , I have a question, I have a water leak right where you are pointing in this video, sec 0:03, I don¨t know how that pipe is holded there cause the leak in where they are conected , any advice !!! greeting from Monterrey Mexico !!Pardon my poor English !!
Eduardo Vazquez Hola! Your English is perfect. :) The two pipes behind the exhaust manifold are called "coolant bypass pipes" by Mazda. They are prone to rusting through and leaking due to the heat cycles put onto it being so close to the exhaust manifold (very hot). It is possible to remove the bypass pipes without removing the exhaust manifold but it will make your life much easier if you remove the exhaust manifold first. Drain the coolant from the engine first. Those bypass pipes will be filled with coolant and will surely make a mess if you don't drain the coolant first. Find replacements on eBay, local junkyard, or Mazda dealership (JimEllisMazdaParts.com). They do have rubber O-rings that need to be replaced too. If it's leaking where the pipe connects to something else then it could just be a leaking O-ring. I've seen the pipes rust away in the middle of the pipe too which means the pipe has to be replaced. If you replace the pipes don't forget to order the O-ring that goes with it!
Eduardo Vazquez Here's a diagram. The part #'s in the diagram are not official part #'s they are references. The official part #'s are on the right side of the site in blue rectangular boxes. www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=299200&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14346&modelYear=1996&ukey_category=20284 So in your case you are either looking for part # FSM315270A or part # FS0115290C. The O-ring is part # E30115287
Thanks , ill look for the O ring tomorrow and fix it , you are great !!
No port and polish while off ?
Hello there what did you used to clean the engine head and a the cylinder head they look pretty well clean shiny so what did you use????
Just realized these weren't added to the Head Series playlist. Added!
Machined Head Returned
Engine Exterior Cleaning
What did you use to clean off your engine block ?
Mazda 626 ECU does not send signal to a couple of injectors, please some help with advices
What year? Distributor or coilpack? Check the injector wiring harness thoroughly for mouse damage or rub through. What cylinders are affected?
hey i am guessing you have a mazda 626 fourms
and i have a question about my 626
my car hesaitates when i try to accelerate but its not all the time and sometimes when i am driving when i hit the brake my cd player will shut off and turn back on
Great video! What year is your 626?
At the time of this video it is a U.S. 1995 Automatic version. It's since been converted to manual transmission of which I have an entire series on converting from automatic to manual.
Hi my 01 Mazda protege needs a head gasket and im thinking about doing it my self. Any pointers/?
Watch my head removal and reassembly series (playlist available). It's filled with pointers. The only thing that happened that I didn't get to record was messing up the dowel pin. When you get the head off make sure to remove the dowel pins immediately and not get them messed up. I mangled a dowel pin and now I have to go back in a redo the whole job because oil is leaking down the back of the engine from improper seating of the dowel pin. New dowel pins from a dealership (still available) are like $7 each and there's only 2 of them. The dowel pins are what allows the head to seat to the block properly. The are like guide pins except they are hollow and have oil flowing through them. Keep them in perfect condition. Also when you remove the head bolts each head bolt has a washer. They like to stay in the head covered with oil. When I flip the head over and something falls out that's what fell out. There is 1 washer for each head bolt.
So how long did it last.
I don't drive it much but still going in 2021 with that head gasket replacement if that's what you mean. The whole head reassembly video series was a success. :)
@@DJDevon3 awesome.
where to get dial pins from? dont think i saw any on mine.
Dowel pins.
Spoken with a thick southern accent I could see how he might think they're called dial pins. You can get dowel pins from a dealership.
The head bolts are torque to yield ..... Use ONCE only .... be warned !!!
After hand tightening the head bolts you torque them down at 15 ft lbs in the proper sequence. Then using a breaker bar you tighten them 90 degrees more in the same sequence and then another 90 degrees. This is a very critical part of head gasket replacements. You failed this video for proper torque demonstration. 👌🏽
Wiggle test lol
This is the most rediculous video about engine repair ever! Quit while you're ahead
Umm that was a decade ago and I did in fact fix my engine so...
Always take your engine to the machine shop to have a flat surface 😕it is cringe watching this eh?
I measured the block surface with feeler gauge and straight edge as is described in the workshop manual. Everything was within spec. The head however was not. This was 6 years ago and the engine is fine. Simmer down now. ;)