Thank you for this video I am using it as a guide to my first Hasselblad repair, effort. I have both a tip and request to you. My Tip is: when you are setting slow speed shutters at 1 second or a fraction there of, or longer, use a digital metronome such as the single business card size, or on a cellphone or pc, with it on, in this case, 1 second beats. This way, you have a good basic rhythm, 60 bps, to time the open/closing of the shutter, so adjusting is easier and closer to the mark. The request is, to show how to.properly disassemble clean and reassembly the large lens group of this lens. That would be a great help and keep folks like me from destroying the Ballance between a good repair and whatever we feel must be right, while having no clue. Cheers, please keep up the videos Eli
just fixed this old 50s fujica 35mm which had seized shutter blades in the lens I took it apart and added some graphite dust on a q tip than blow out any excess graphite dust of course I removed both elements first but it works like magic now thanks to your videos and techniques
No wonder these lenses are so expensive. Looks like a swiss watch inside and that doesn't include the glass.I'm pretty good with mechanical equipment but this is way over my head. Back in the 80's and 90's I shot professionally with Hassleblad Gear. Now I know why it was so expensive.
Hi there love your videos i have watched every single one of them,but i made a small mistake when you mentioned the small steel ball that clicks tha aparture ring..I lost it!! where do you get one of those small balls,actually it is a question for everybody if i can get some help i would very much appritiate Thank you..
Thank you! With the help of your video, I fixed slow speeds on my Hasselblad lens! My B speed is still sticky. Do you know what parts of the mechanism are responsible for B?
Hi there; I am writing to ask that you show how to rebuild the Hasselblad 50mm DistagonF4 C t* shutter, as mine popped open when trying to raise it up for a general soaking. The issue was this lens, had both the slow 1 second, and other slow speeds and two, had enough fungus between several lenses to require a cleaning with Eclipse lens cleaner, H2O2 (HP) and/or Eclipse. I also have Alcohol, both Isopropyl and Ethanol on hand both at about 95%. I uncovered that this lens was tinkered with by someone who lost a two screws, and damaged the screw heads of a few others. All in all, had I left the lens alone, the fungus and slow speed gears would have been work arounds, as the lens did focus properly and the higher speed were 'on', but I need this lens to be in good working order, there's no good reason no to have it in Best Practices Condition, and likewise, for me to do the repairs. The one main issue I had, besides the slow speed gear box self-deconstruction, is with the massive lens group/structure. I can remove the back lens but the all in one lens group, is so difficult, I have put off trying to open it up any further. Are there good pages of the Hasselblad lens manual for this lens, on line for download, etc? I could no find a set of instructions in TH-cam on the 50mm deconstruction, repair and re assembly, so I used your two videos on the shutter CLA of the shutter of an 80mm as a guide for that aspect of this work, they are both good and clear to understand, so thank you for taking the time. I will mention that the small screws in this lens, do no accept Wiha Precision screwdrivers (slotted) and the Vessel Screwdriver is too soft for tighter screws, and the tip bends. I am still building my tool kit, and wonder if Wera tool blades are thin and strong enough to fit these thin slots, out of the box, as I do no favor any sort of grinding of the Sets I do have? Lastly, can you recommend a supplier of correct sized screws for work on a Hasselblad camera or lens, or at least share the sizes needed in a general reply? Any thing you can do would be a great aid, and if you can only manage a video on the Shutters in these lenses, disassembly and reassembly , that would be terrific. Be Safe, Be Well and Godspeed to all here. Eli
I have encountered two more issues and need your help. 1. At 53:06 the point you mentioned, mine is moving along with the cocking ring but when I cock it, the pin escapes the cocking ring in the midway and the lens wont cock and diaphram blades do not fully open and back to the aperture F22 level. How to fix this issue? Do I have to take out the pin (cocking and release key?)? 2. Those two Intermediate cocking gears, i did not mark the position. Is there anyway I can get them correct? Thanks a million.
Hi sir, at 37:59, the black long spring at 1 o'clock, what is it for? I have an old 80mm T star lens and that spring is missing. Now the aperture blade is not opening fully when it is cocked. I can see the iris goes back to F22 position slowly when I cock the screw at the lens back. Not sure if the issue is caused by the missing spring, if you know anywhere I can buy the spring. Need your help, appreciate it a lot.
Is the one second not a little bit short? You didn't measure the gap. Is that on purpose? Love your work! Your catalogue is one giant source of repair help!
Thank's Well, I just show how one can measure it before take out the slow gear, so one have an idea about the position the slow gear has to sit. But I check' the 1 second compare to my wrist clock right beside me, when I was working with the lens, and it was actually okay. (My shutter did not work at the moment, so I have to repair it...).
Hi Kenneth, I enjoyed your video and have just cleaned the shutter escapement like you showed us. It's nice to see a video in real time. I have two of these lenses, but the other one is in two pieces (been like that 10 years!) as the helical unscrewed and the focus end came off the lens. I think it may have been caused by loose internal screws. Is adjusting the helical for this something you have tried? I have figured out how to put the parts together but not how to adjust, and the correct position to realign the helical parts. Can you help, or maybe suggest a link to a manual for this lens. I can't find one online, only for later different versions. Thank you.
1.) Will the same repair work for the 150mm f4 lens? I have one that has sticky shutter. 2.) I can hear the closing flap of the rear curtains every time you depress or remove your finger out of the shutter release button. As I understand, it shuts the light out of the film when it happens. My question is, is that how a working hasselblad behaves? I think it will underexpose if you depress midway of the exposure (rear curtains are closed but the lens shutter is still open)
I don't know if you found an answer after all to your second question, but basically the manual of the 500CM indicates that at slower speeds one needs to keep the button pressed until the lens shutter closes, to keep the back shutter (barn doors as they are named) open. I think on the lens barrel a little red line is marking that this should be done for the 1 to 8th of a second shutter speeds. It's a Hasselblad thing, something to get used to
If you flick the little switch near the trigger button from O to T, it will stay open until you bring it back to O. Helpful for longer exposures. Bonus tip: use the self timer in conjunction to this and you get good results.
Thank you for this video I am using it as a guide to my first Hasselblad repair, effort.
I have both a tip and request to you.
My Tip is: when you are setting slow speed shutters at 1 second or a fraction there of, or longer, use a digital metronome such as the single business card size, or on a cellphone or pc, with it on, in this case, 1 second beats.
This way, you have a good basic rhythm, 60 bps, to time the open/closing of the shutter, so adjusting is easier and closer to the mark.
The request is, to show how to.properly disassemble clean and reassembly the large lens group of this lens.
That would be a great help and keep folks like me from destroying the Ballance between a good repair and whatever we feel must be right, while having no clue.
Cheers, please keep up the videos
Eli
just fixed this old 50s fujica 35mm which had seized shutter blades in the lens I took it apart and added some graphite dust on a q tip than blow out any excess graphite dust of course I removed both elements first but it works like magic now thanks to your videos and techniques
I'm really happy to know that, good my video's can help other people to maybe repair there photo gear.
Great video. Thank you for showing us this. It's not easy to repair a lens, but it is possible! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much for making this, learn a lot, beautiful machine
Fantastic video, Sir!
You are so skilled. Congratulations!
I am trying to fix my lens. But I can't even open the first cap :-)
No wonder these lenses are so expensive. Looks like a swiss watch inside and that doesn't include the glass.I'm pretty good with mechanical equipment but this is way over my head. Back in the 80's and 90's I shot professionally with Hassleblad Gear. Now I know why it was so expensive.
Hi there love your videos i have watched every single one of them,but i made a small mistake when you mentioned the small steel ball that clicks tha aparture ring..I lost it!! where do you get one of those small balls,actually it is a question for everybody if i can get some help i would very much appritiate Thank you..
Thank you! With the help of your video, I fixed slow speeds on my Hasselblad lens! My B speed is still sticky. Do you know what parts of the mechanism are responsible for B?
Hi there; I am writing to ask that you show how to rebuild the Hasselblad 50mm DistagonF4 C t* shutter, as mine popped open when trying to raise it up for a general soaking.
The issue was this lens, had both the slow 1 second, and other slow speeds and two, had enough fungus between several lenses to require a cleaning with Eclipse lens cleaner, H2O2 (HP) and/or Eclipse.
I also have Alcohol, both Isopropyl and Ethanol on hand both at about 95%.
I uncovered that this lens was tinkered with by someone who lost a two screws, and damaged the screw heads of a few others.
All in all, had I left the lens alone, the fungus and slow speed gears would have been work arounds, as the lens did focus properly and the higher speed were 'on', but I need this lens to be in good working order, there's no good reason no to have it in Best Practices Condition, and likewise, for me to do the repairs.
The one main issue I had, besides the slow speed gear box self-deconstruction, is with the massive lens group/structure. I can remove the back lens but the all in one lens group, is so difficult, I have put off trying to open it up any further.
Are there good pages of the Hasselblad lens manual for this lens, on line for download, etc?
I could no find a set of instructions in TH-cam on the 50mm deconstruction, repair and re assembly, so I used your two videos on the shutter CLA of the shutter of an 80mm as a guide for that aspect of this work, they are both good and clear to understand, so thank you for taking the time.
I will mention that the small screws in this lens, do no accept Wiha Precision screwdrivers (slotted) and the Vessel Screwdriver is too soft for tighter screws, and the tip bends.
I am still building my tool kit, and wonder if Wera tool blades are thin and strong enough to fit these thin slots, out of the box, as I do no favor any sort of grinding of the Sets I do have?
Lastly, can you recommend a supplier of correct sized screws for work on a Hasselblad camera or lens, or at least share the sizes needed in a general reply?
Any thing you can do would be a great aid, and if you can only manage a video on the Shutters in these lenses, disassembly and reassembly , that would be terrific.
Be Safe, Be Well and Godspeed to all here.
Eli
I have encountered two more issues and need your help. 1. At 53:06 the point you mentioned, mine is moving along with the cocking ring but when I cock it, the pin escapes the cocking ring in the midway and the lens wont cock and diaphram blades do not fully open and back to the aperture F22 level. How to fix this issue? Do I have to take out the pin (cocking and release key?)? 2. Those two Intermediate cocking gears, i did not mark the position. Is there anyway I can get them correct? Thanks a million.
Hi sir, at 37:59, the black long spring at 1 o'clock, what is it for? I have an old 80mm T star lens and that spring is missing. Now the aperture blade is not opening fully when it is cocked. I can see the iris goes back to F22 position slowly when I cock the screw at the lens back. Not sure if the issue is caused by the missing spring, if you know anywhere I can buy the spring. Need your help, appreciate it a lot.
Is the one second not a little bit short? You didn't measure the gap. Is that on purpose?
Love your work! Your catalogue is one giant source of repair help!
Thank's
Well, I just show how one can measure it before take out the slow gear, so one have an idea about the position the slow gear has to sit.
But I check' the 1 second compare to my wrist clock right beside me, when I was working with the lens, and it was actually okay.
(My shutter did not work at the moment, so I have to repair it...).
I have trouble with the fast shutter speeds. What is there to do about those?
My 80mm focus ring isn't catching . so the front element not longer moves anymore . Any idea what happen?
Hi Kenneth, I enjoyed your video and have just cleaned the shutter escapement like you showed us. It's nice to see a video in real time. I have two of these lenses, but the other one is in two pieces (been like that 10 years!) as the helical unscrewed and the focus end came off the lens. I think it may have been caused by loose internal screws. Is adjusting the helical for this something you have tried? I have figured out how to put the parts together but not how to adjust, and the correct position to realign the helical parts. Can you help, or maybe suggest a link to a manual for this lens. I can't find one online, only for later different versions. Thank you.
I sorted it finally, after looking at it long and hard. Got the helicoids together and working. Very satisfying.
@@owenedelsten1890 please share this knowledge!
1.) Will the same repair work for the 150mm f4 lens? I have one that has sticky shutter.
2.) I can hear the closing flap of the rear curtains every time you depress or remove your finger out of the shutter release button. As I understand, it shuts the light out of the film when it happens. My question is, is that how a working hasselblad behaves? I think it will underexpose if you depress midway of the exposure (rear curtains are closed but the lens shutter is still open)
I don't know if you found an answer after all to your second question, but basically the manual of the 500CM indicates that at slower speeds one needs to keep the button pressed until the lens shutter closes, to keep the back shutter (barn doors as they are named) open. I think on the lens barrel a little red line is marking that this should be done for the 1 to 8th of a second shutter speeds. It's a Hasselblad thing, something to get used to
If you flick the little switch near the trigger button from O to T, it will stay open until you bring it back to O. Helpful for longer exposures.
Bonus tip: use the self timer in conjunction to this and you get good results.
That lens was built in 1980. Just so you know
I can’t turn the lens clock wise
do you repair lenses.
Sorry, I do not have repair service.
оч круто - спасибо!
Master