Need a better pic to understand how to disconnect the coil connectors? See post #52 in the below link. www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spark-plug-change-on-3-6-penstar.122868/page-4
On the 2nd spark plug that is under those connectors and is under the pipe, I was able to snake it out and back in without moving any of them. Those clips were the hardest part of getting them out haha
I was thinking, "did this man seriously use a torque wrench for his engine cover?" But you know what, it doesn't hurt, and I now know the torque rating.
Im convinced that Jeep, as a corecompany value, believes that anybody doing the most basic maintenance or repairs, can go f*ck themselves 😂. Thanks for the clear and informational video!
It’s the plating they use on the body of the plug. NGK does not recommended it. After 66k miles, there was no issue removing mine as you saw. I prefer it that way too because you don’t have to account for the lubricity affecting the torque applied for the same setting. You wouldn’t want that. It would be too high with any lubricant on there.
NGK recommends against it. As a former engine machinist/builder, it’s normal for them to be a little sticky but be sure not to cross thread them. I would not use a ratchet until a few threads were properly engaged. Then torque to spec. Using anti seize lowers friction. The torque wrench works on resistance. Lowering resistance will put you higher on torque to the spark plug than spec’d. Any lubricant will. All that said, it’s up to you. If you put any on, set the torque wrench to the minimum torque spec at least.
Also, anti-seize will hamper the plugs ability to transfer heat from the plug to the cylinder head that is supposed to happen to make the plug run cooler.
Always verify but to my knowledge all years of the JL 2.0 to this point take the same spark plug whether it’s in the 4xe, 2.0 eTorque, or the standard 2.0L ESS (Engine Start Stop) version.
Ah I must of missed it my bad, thanks informing me! Also, sorry to ask but do you have any idea where the map sensor is, I've been looking everywhere online and can't find it anywhere in the engine bay along the air intske
Seems there’s a map and T map sensor. This thread has a pic showing the T map area. Maybe ask more questions there. I’ve not had an issue and looked into it. www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/blown-map-sensor-on-2-0-l.75823/
Socket? It’s a 5/8” spark plug socket. You will need a dedicated spark plug socket that is either magnetic or has a rubber gripper inside the socket to hold the spark plug in the socket to get it out and keep it from falling into the spark plug tube, disturbing the spark plug grond strap/spark plug gap.
I did not but it’s generally good practice to disconnect the battery when working with anything electrical like connectors. Having done this for years, I’ve not had a bad experience leaving them on for something like this but I probably should have. These newer vehicles can be finicky and it only takes another minute to disconnect them.
Just to report that I changed the spark plugs on my 19 Wrangler JLUS with little to no effort thanks to your video. Also, there was no need for me to remove any connectors on plugs 2,3 and 4. I removed the coils with connectors still attached to them. And for spark plug #2, I’d just wiggle it around the other cables to come out (coils are flexible and rubbery). The first one was the only one needed connector removed and your tip to sacrifice a small screwdriver worked like a charm!
So far, it seems reliable for most people. Both the 3.6 and the 2.0 have had some outlier type issues. IE- rocker noise or worse in the 3.6 or the water pump outlet bolts being loose on the 2.0…or worse. Neither is “common” though. There’s a TSB for the 2.0 outlet bolts if you’re still under warranty. Otherwise, Torque them to 97 in lbs. I tightened the top with a torque wrench, barely. But had to turn it again by hand to get an idea how tight that is because the bottom bolt, I couldn’t get that small torque wrench up there. I did remove the bolts and added blue thread locker as well. There’s a few 100k plus 2.0’s out there. One guy claimed over 200k miles already!
NGK specifically state not to due to a special coating applied. The plugs I installed are the factory plugs so they seem to agree. Also, when you apply anti seize, you inhibit the ability of the plug to transfer heat from the plug to the cylinder head and the coolant flowing through them. This will lead to a hot plug, increased wear, and possibly preignition at worst. The squeak isn’t anything to be concerned about.
Need a better pic to understand how to disconnect the coil connectors? See post #52 in the below link.
www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spark-plug-change-on-3-6-penstar.122868/page-4
Great video thanks sir, I have the 2.0 4 cylinder so this helped a bunch. Much easier than the 6 cylinder I see.
You’re welcome. Happy to help! I’m about to do plugs on a ‘21 3.6 so that’s going to be a learning experience.
On the 2nd spark plug that is under those connectors and is under the pipe, I was able to snake it out and back in without moving any of them. Those clips were the hardest part of getting them out haha
There ya go! Yes, those clips take some figuring out sometimes and that engine heat makes the plastic fragile.
I was thinking, "did this man seriously use a torque wrench for his engine cover?" But you know what, it doesn't hurt, and I now know the torque rating.
Lol, yeah. I guess it’s the Air Force Crew Chief in me.
@@odysseyusa i wonder if the QA on a submarine is worse
I hope it’s on point! lol
Im convinced that Jeep, as a corecompany value, believes that anybody doing the most basic maintenance or repairs, can go f*ck themselves 😂. Thanks for the clear and informational video!
Question. I read these plugs come pre gapped. My gapping tool puts right at 24/25 ish. Did yours come gapped differently?
I had to close mine up a thousandth or two out of the box to get to .024”
Awesome interesting process. Great work 👍
Thanks! I appreciate your watching and your feedback.
SOLID - Thanks ! Curious why no never-seize.
It’s the plating they use on the body of the plug. NGK does not recommended it. After 66k miles, there was no issue removing mine as you saw. I prefer it that way too because you don’t have to account for the lubricity affecting the torque applied for the same setting. You wouldn’t want that. It would be too high with any lubricant on there.
Can you put a little bit of Anti seize on the threads, that sound is cringing .
NGK recommends against it. As a former engine machinist/builder, it’s normal for them to be a little sticky but be sure not to cross thread them. I would not use a ratchet until a few threads were properly engaged. Then torque to spec.
Using anti seize lowers friction. The torque wrench works on resistance. Lowering resistance will put you higher on torque to the spark plug than spec’d. Any lubricant will.
All that said, it’s up to you. If you put any on, set the torque wrench to the minimum torque spec at least.
Also, anti-seize will hamper the plugs ability to transfer heat from the plug to the cylinder head that is supposed to happen to make the plug run cooler.
same sparkplug for any 2 liter ? (2018-2023 ) ?
Always verify but to my knowledge all years of the JL 2.0 to this point take the same spark plug whether it’s in the 4xe, 2.0 eTorque, or the standard 2.0L ESS (Engine Start Stop) version.
@@odysseyusa thanks for fast answer.
You’re welcome. Happy to help.👍🏼
What size wrench for the spark plugs though that wasn't mention, thanks!
It’s at the 53 second mark in the video but it’s a 5/8” spark plug socket.
Ah I must of missed it my bad, thanks informing me! Also, sorry to ask but do you have any idea where the map sensor is, I've been looking everywhere online and can't find it anywhere in the engine bay along the air intske
Seems there’s a map and T map sensor. This thread has a pic showing the T map area. Maybe ask more questions there. I’ve not had an issue and looked into it.
www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/blown-map-sensor-on-2-0-l.75823/
What cup number to remove the spark plug
Socket? It’s a 5/8” spark plug socket. You will need a dedicated spark plug socket that is either magnetic or has a rubber gripper inside the socket to hold the spark plug in the socket to get it out and keep it from falling into the spark plug tube, disturbing the spark plug grond strap/spark plug gap.
Do you have to disconnect the battery prior to replacing spark plugs?
I did not but it’s generally good practice to disconnect the battery when working with anything electrical like connectors. Having done this for years, I’ve not had a bad experience leaving them on for something like this but I probably should have. These newer vehicles can be finicky and it only takes another minute to disconnect them.
@@odysseyusa Thank you for responding. I’d rather leave them on so I don’t have to potentially deal with a bunch of resets to factory settings
Just to report that I changed the spark plugs on my 19 Wrangler JLUS with little to no effort thanks to your video.
Also, there was no need for me to remove any connectors on plugs 2,3 and 4. I removed the coils with connectors still attached to them. And for spark plug #2, I’d just wiggle it around the other cables to come out (coils are flexible and rubbery). The first one was the only one needed connector removed and your tip to sacrifice a small screwdriver worked like a charm!
@nemomilo333 It’s great to hear the video helped you out and thanks for sharing your experience!
Is this engine reliable?
So far, it seems reliable for most people. Both the 3.6 and the 2.0 have had some outlier type issues. IE- rocker noise or worse in the 3.6 or the water pump outlet bolts being loose on the 2.0…or worse. Neither is “common” though.
There’s a TSB for the 2.0 outlet bolts if you’re still under warranty. Otherwise, Torque them to 97 in lbs. I tightened the top with a torque wrench, barely. But had to turn it again by hand to get an idea how tight that is because the bottom bolt, I couldn’t get that small torque wrench up there. I did remove the bolts and added blue thread locker as well. There’s a few 100k plus 2.0’s out there. One guy claimed over 200k miles already!
The noise they made coming out, put anti seize on them
NGK specifically state not to due to a special coating applied. The plugs I installed are the factory plugs so they seem to agree. Also, when you apply anti seize, you inhibit the ability of the plug to transfer heat from the plug to the cylinder head and the coolant flowing through them. This will lead to a hot plug, increased wear, and possibly preignition at worst. The squeak isn’t anything to be concerned about.