Fabricating coupler pockets for a 7-1/2 inch gauge locomotive

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
  • In today's video, we make pockets to mount couplers in on our latest locomotive build.
    This is a 2 axle switcher design, based on Bill Gardei's NB-1 locomotive, as described at www.islandpondrailroad.com. A number of things have been changed and improved upon, most notably the suspension and the motor mount, which we will cover in another video.
    Today, we're fabricating and mounting coupler pockets to the frame we welded in a previous video.
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ความคิดเห็น • 22

  • @geoffreykail9129
    @geoffreykail9129 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    A little higher heat and moving along the weld more quickly.

  • @woozleboy
    @woozleboy หลายเดือนก่อน

    I tend to overbuild and would be hard tempted to make gussets for the back of the coupler pockets to help with end impact stress. Likely never to be an issue, but the fabrication is just fun.

  • @insAneTunA
    @insAneTunA หลายเดือนก่อน

    I am not a welding expert either, but I've welded a couple of times. And I think that if you would move the nozzle less fast that you would get much better weld penetration, and less buildup of metal on top of the weld. What I would recommend you to try is to take a piece of scrap of cut from your project before you weld your project. And to weld that piece of scrap to another piece of scrap with the same thickness, and to weld that as slow as possible until you are going so slow that you burn a hole into it. And when you do burn a hole that is obviously your limit of how slow you can go. But the welds just before you burned the hole should look much flatter and well penetrated. And those are the welds that you want to have. Practice how slow you can go with various of thicknesses of metal and amp settings until you get those flat looking welds.

  • @Scoobers-fj6jk
    @Scoobers-fj6jk หลายเดือนก่อน

    This was great 👍 video thanks for sharing 👍

  • @bobstekl115
    @bobstekl115 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I in-joy watching all your videos for the last few years and look forward to more. Here’s a helpful tip when drilling. After you use your hand held spring center punch that is used for making a small prick punch. Next get a little larger center punch and a hammer then make the tiny prick punch bigger. Now you can use a center drill or a smaller drill to pre drill the hole. Then drill the hole it to the size you want . This will help with location and keep the drill on center. Good luck with the track expansion at your place. Most of all have fun.

  • @narrowgauge7.25
    @narrowgauge7.25 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Always do the drilling whilst it is a bigger lump makes handling much easier, not really sure you marked up the centre of the box that well

  • @s16100
    @s16100 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Denatured Alcohol for a de-greaser. Nice, didn't know you could do that. One of my Mikado's burns Denatured Alcohol as fuel for the boiler. I could clean parts and still use it to burn also. Nice.

    • @jenniferwhitewolf3784
      @jenniferwhitewolf3784 หลายเดือนก่อน

      It burns without a flame too, so if it ignites while being used as a cleaner, in an open bucket with welding going on nearby, you can't even see the flames till the shop starts burning down. Cool stuff✔️

  • @artillerest43rdva7
    @artillerest43rdva7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    great job Aaron. it is nice to see how it is done. there are so many steps building the engines.
    cannot wait for the next installment! have a great day, stay safe and be careful out there!

  • @user-cn4rg2bs4p
    @user-cn4rg2bs4p หลายเดือนก่อน

    one of our uk engineers self taught (fred dibnah) called himself a back street mechanic. How about you? caroline

    • @MillBrookRailroad
      @MillBrookRailroad  หลายเดือนก่อน

      I'm more of a shade tree mechanic, myself.

  • @timothyjohnston4083
    @timothyjohnston4083 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Would placing the spacer blocks so that they span between the 2 cross-bars (ie: at 90 degrees to how you installed them) not allow for longer welds ? A possible benefit to this method would be the ability to use less steel.

    • @MillBrookRailroad
      @MillBrookRailroad  หลายเดือนก่อน

      I only had enough steel to cut some short pieces on this build.

  • @lordsherifftakari4127
    @lordsherifftakari4127 หลายเดือนก่อน

    curious as to whether you've built a 4 axle Loco for a customer or considered the possibility of adding a 4 axle unit to MBRY in part to your growing collection of rolling stock

    • @MillBrookRailroad
      @MillBrookRailroad  หลายเดือนก่อน

      I have yet to build a 4 axle loco, but I did help rebuild the Shady Pines electric Climax.

  • @williamsquires3070
    @williamsquires3070 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Ermm, no. Don’t put the on/off switch down there unless it’s weatherproof, or you make it weatherproof. And I’m not just talking about making the exposed electrical contacts on the outside being protected against moisture ingress, it’s the user-accessible portion that needs to be protected also. Maybe putting the on/off switch under the cab roof (or wherever it is on #70) would be a better idea?

    • @MillBrookRailroad
      @MillBrookRailroad  หลายเดือนก่อน

      I have to put the switch where the customer wants it on this build.

  • @tomt9543
    @tomt9543 21 วันที่ผ่านมา

    What’s your source for those couplers?

  • @southern207hobbies
    @southern207hobbies หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Please invest in a machinist vice

    • @MillBrookRailroad
      @MillBrookRailroad  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      It's on my list of tools to buy.

  • @martynbuzzing3327
    @martynbuzzing3327 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Get some scrap metal and practice your joints. You'll soon see a more professional welds. 😊