Refurbishing SRV Fuel Caps - Part Two
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- 2020 Update - #3
I strongly recommend that stove repairers NOT use any form of "security" bits. The rounded lobes can easily slip out of the penta when the penta-screw is held very tightly and damage the penta-screw beyond repair and with no ability to extract it. DO NOT USE THESE BITS! This caution especially applies to security fastener bits sold by a vendor that goes by the name Quie*Sto*e (Q*ietS*ove).
This is Part Two on refurbishing SRV caps where I cover how to refurbish the pump-able pressure SRV fuel tank caps.
You can get pips from:
www.fettlebox.c...
or
eBay seller gksk2146-3 in S. Korea.
And, you can get o-rings from:
www.theoringst...
You want size -006, 75 Durometer hardness, FKM Flurocarbon rings in black, brown or green (your choice on color).
I've stopped making the nifty Penta-Wrench tool. (See the description box under Part One for who and why precipitated the closing of this tool. Evil and lies made me drop production.)
There is at least one vendor in Asia who is making a combo penta-tool, eBay seller gksk2146-3 in S. Korea. Or, try simonchantwus_gmail on eBay for a titanium tool. Neither of these tools is as good as my original Penta-Wrench, but c'est la vie. Sorry. Check eBay for their listings, or check my parts supplier list at: www.berniedawg....
More questions? bd@berniedawg.com
DISCLAIMER
Any repair work you do on your stove is solely your responsibility. I have no way to judge whether you are familiar enough with simple tools to do this repair. I have no way to insure that you will follow my instruction properly. You take all risks when you decide to attempt to do the work. If, after viewing the video, you don't feel like you are competent to do the work, you are probably right. I cannot be held liable for any damage or injury you may cause. Have an experienced technician perform the work for you instead. I can do these repairs for you for reasonable dough and shipping.
Very useful video, easy to know how it works. Thank you
@Channy YUN Glad it helped! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema and sir, I'd like to ask having further relative video about the midi-midi pump full disassembly, in order to do the replacements for orings of the pump, not the tank lid. In fact I don't know the exact O rings sizes. Only if you don't mind it.
It would be very helpful to guys who are not living in USA...
@Channy YUN I think this disassembly and repair of the mini/midi-pumps is too simple to warrant a video. Here’s how you do it.
The oring inside the opening of the mini/midi-pump can be carefully removed with a dental tool.
To remove the oring on the plunger you need to unscrew the nose of the mini/midi-pump. The nose is usually sealed/glued with Optimus clear adhesive, so once the nose oring is out, gently heat the mini/midi-pump with a torch. This will soften the adhesive. Clamp the flats of the mini/midi-pump nose in your vise and use a pair of well-padded pliers to turn the barrel of the pump to unscrew it. Turn the pump barrel counter-clockwise. When you have removed the nose, you can push the pump plunger out of the barrel and use dental tools to remove the plunger oring. You can now measure both orings and get replacements here: www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=page_2
Or, at your location of choice. The chart and instructions on how to measure the orings will determine their size - you can buy them anywhere using the size designation.
Buy Viton 75 orings. Only lubricate the orings and pump with dry lubricant. Do not use wet lubricants such as oil. Do not reapply adhesive on the nose threads of the pump - it isn’t needed. Reassemble with the new orings in place. Have fun.
That pretty well covers this simple disassembly and repair. Good luck! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema what a perfection, thank you all is clear. I'll measure both rings, hope my measurements would be correct!
Didn't know only dry lubricant is allowed, now understood. Thank you for yr clear How-to-do.
Take care! Thank you.
@Channy YUN Glad to hear that helped.
Of course, just to be clear, unless you are using an Optimus 10 or Optimus 199 stove (both kerosene fueled stoves), there is no need at all for the mini- or midi-pump. White gas fueled stoves like the Svea 123/123R, Optimus 8/8R, Primus 71, etc, develop plenty of pressure on their own when properly preheated and allowed to come up to operating temperature. These pumps were never included with the white gas stoves when sold originally and were not intended for use with the white gas stoves in normal practice. Mini- and midi-pumps are only occasionally convenient at greater than 2.5K meter elevations or possibly at temperatures below -4 deg C. But, pumps are certainly not needed for self-pressuring white gas stoves. 👍 BD
Excellent video!
Thank you very much! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema I bought one of those “security” drivers for SRV removal, but never used it to service the pump cap. I took your advice to not even try it, and today I made my own tool, instead. Two months ago I made a router plane bit for a Stanley 121 body I got from my brother, out of a 6 mm Allen wrench (It’s tool steel!) and I had about 2 inches of the shank left kicking around on the bench.
I stuck the hex stock in the vice and heated it cherry red and let it cool, then chucked it in my 60+ year-old Craftsman 101, 6” lathe, turned one end down to about 0.215. The bull gear in the headstock is a 60-tooth indexing gear, 1/5 of that is 12 teeth. I filed a flat, turned it 12 teeth, giving each flat 5 strokes, rinse and repeat until it was a perfect fit. I am on the fence about re-hardening and tempering the tool. Is dark straw about the right temper, hard to tell on your tool?
Next I need to make the small brass cup to hold the pip. I found a Viton gasket on Amazon, and will cut the pips out of that. O-rings are in the same order. I have two of the pump caps, and two pumps, but only one cap was working. After taking the working one apart with the my new penta-tool, (You were right about tightening and loosening the SRV screw to break up the cement!) I managed to drop the O-ring which promptly vanished without a trace, now I have no working caps until the Amazon order comes in next week. SMH. I will also refurbish the worn pump when the O-ring order comes in.
Probably two decades ago I bought two complete rebuild kits for my 123R that are still in the original packages as I was able to tune the stove up with no new parts. With proper care that 45 year old stove should last 100 years.
Between your channel, and some Coleman channels, I have been inspired to dust off my older camping appliances, and restore their original appearance and function. Next on the service roster are a 1976 Coleman 220J lantern, which can use a generator service and new paint, a 1992 Coleman 424 Dual Fuel 2-burner stove that needs new paint, and a 1996 Coleman Feather 442 Dual Fuel backpacking stove. All three are going to get new leather pump cups to replace the plastic ones.
Thanks again for posting your excellent content. Sorry to hear that you have had trouble with TH-cam trolls. AS Scott Wadsworth says over on the “Essential Craftsman” channel, “Keep up the good work!”
@Charles Ward Wow! You are the man, Charles! What you are doing with all this is what I hope my viewers do - get into these old appliances with joy and interest. Thanks for sharing your work! BD