You weren’t kidding when you said it was an elegant solution. So satisfying how the HDMI socket fits in the case hole there. Nice work everyone involved! 👍🕹️
Thanks! I always leave my mistakes in the videos so people don’t have to repeat them… :D interlace modes work beautifully and flicker free. Only for the OCS modes though, super hi res and the other ECS stuff looks a bit messy and is missing some pixels.
I think this will be my solution for my newly bought A600 which will arrive in a few days. This looks awesome and no one will even know what happened inside :D
So very glad someone like Jan allows us to see all the wonderful upgrades done in place. Upgrades my hands no longer let me do on my own. Gives me great pleasure watching these.
Wow, a very nice solution for A600 owners. Don't beat yourself up on the locking tab, many of us have broken one, I know I have. Very delicate little things! I bought an AGA MK3 for my 1200 and I have to get a mounting tray for the HDMI as well.
@@JanBeta You know, as I watched you struggle with tha ribbon I realised that this device is poorely designed. It could be (pcb)waaaaaaay better in a different design. No ribbon, but desoldering the RGB and have a single PCB with a DVI / HDMI out to completely replace the RGB out in front of Denise. This 2.0 version could make the mod almost factory looking, and then we could get rid of all legacy outputs RF, Comp, RGG plus that giant cap that would be useless. Someone should do this as it makes much more sense ans it only needs the Pi mounted parallel to the PCB, where theres much room from the removed HDD (everyone is using SD/CF cards anyway). Here's a mockup of how it could look. Much simpler and actually cheaper too. i.imgur.com/FfF6GwE.jpeg
@@RetroGameCoders Should come in handy for testing :) Casual Amiga fans are better off going the emulation route, but if you're writing code then it's definitely worth having an original around!
Wonderful solution, pity Amiga 600 are so expensive. I guess you'll have to reset the "counting days without accidents" plate on the wall, as you broke the HDMI connector :-))))
Jan, fantastic work, as usual. :) Could You tell me where did You buy that SD card angle interface and SD card to IDE adapter? Thanks a lot and all the best, Greg
Thanks! Unfortunately the Pi is not powerful enough for the AGA screen modes. And as far as I know the signals are processed differently so there would have to be a whole different method in order for this to work. Maybe someday.
Double sided tape doesn't work well for long term mounting in my experience because it tends to be very temperature sensitive -- tape adhesive gets brittle and loses its stick when it's cold, and it melts when it's hot, and even at the best of times it tends to creep and gradually let go if subjected to any significant force. A really good quality tape can work for lightweight things that are at room temperature all the time, but especially if you're sticking down electronics like a Pi which will get warm and melt the tape adhesive, I can't recommend it -- hot glue, silicone, and zipties are my go-tos now for electronic parts inside a case if I'm not doing it properly with screws. There are tape adhesives that can work over larger temperature ranges for longer times but in my experience they're really hard to remove and then I might as well be dealing with glue...
What about putting the rpi in a box connected to the external rbg video connector instead, since this also happens to provide 5v on pin 23? Something like the old A520 adapter, just smaller.
That would work but would be limited to the analog signals, similar to a standard RGB upscaler. The mod uses the digital signals provided to the Denise to generate the Full HD picture so the quality is way better.
Whoopsies. I can't remember if I was thinking you should connect the flat flex cable to the HDMI socket before you stuck it to the mount. Perhaps you needed instructions Jan?
Have to admit I wasn't expecting to see someone halfway across the world wearing a Bikini Kill shirt! :) I thought they'd only ever really gotten big in my region.
Nice relly nice ideas for old computers. Little tip, dont use double side tape for secure HDMI port in this acrylic adapter. Because glue on tape can easy melt after use in hot case, and huge fat HDMI cable can easy lift glued HDMI port and made big mad devastation inside case. Or if have luck only destroy signal tape. I see many HDMI ports soldered and lifted from PCB. Better use hot glue or best some acrilic glue or best way any 2 ingrediens nonconductive glue. Glues like 1s Super Glue can made shorts or another disasters. Hot glue is very safe and can easy dismount with hot air. Grettings and cherrs :D
There is a VIC-II replacement in the works actually. I’m very likely going to make a video about it when the project is finished and I get my hands on one. :D
My colleagues all use tweezers when working with FFC\FPC connectors. I use my fingers and have never broken one which can be unfortunate because they all now come to me when they need their development kit reconfigured.
Jan, great video. quick question, if you are playing a very fast reaction time game, is there any noticeable lag? Not that i would ever be able to tell, but rapid fire grandchildren might.
Jan, thanks for the detailed video you've uploaded. Great to see this solution working for the 600. I've had a look to do this myself, but I can not find the adapter board for the A600 mentioned. (the one with the cable and Denise adapter) Is there any way to aquire it preready made, as shown? Many thanks, Job
I wonder if it's possible to merge this project with the PiStorm? The Pi 4 should have enough power to do both, but GPIO pins being used on both projects might complicate things...
This is a nice and neat solution. I am looking at possibly doing something similar for my Indivision MK3 where I can use a USB plug into the smaller board, then using a flat ribbon can then direct the output to the socket as you have here. I feel this would be look more elegant (at least externally) & would free up the back port of the A1200 for other things (e.g. easier CF card hardrive access). I just wish I had a way of getting hold of the acrylic/perspex mouting plate & screws
Hallo Jan, Danke erstmal für deine guten Videos. Ich habe schon lange ein Problem mit 2 meiner Amiga 600. Ich Habe immer Vertikale Streifen im Bild, und hab schon so manche Sachen ausprobiert. (Natürlich über RGB, und auch mit OSSC) Daher bin ich nun auf dein Video mit der HDMI Lösung gestoßen. Die erste Frage: Ich habe eine Turbokarte Furia EC02 die den Denise Chip verdeckt. Würde es trozdem dann passen wegen Platz usw.? Und die Zweite Frage: Hast du einen Link wo man alles Sachen kaufen kann dazu in einem Set? Danke schon mal für die Antworten. Gruß Matze
have 1 last question, the quality of the graphics on this certain game, does this rgb2hdmi thingy work good with the game Bubble & squeak? not sure if you've tested that game on it but the graphics on that game look great and need to run smooth.
So far, it did work very well with everything I threw at it. I don't think I've tried that particular game but chances are that it's going to work fine just like everything else (except for the higher screen resolutions introduced with the ECS chipset--which are VERY seldomly used in games).
Your not alone in the mistake department we all have been there and anyone who says they don't make mistakes has absolutely no credibility. The flat flex idea is pretty nice but if your always working on your Amiga its maybe not the best solution and a short cable would be better. You could have PCBWAY make up a PCB where you can solder a couple HDMI Connectors on the board and then using those same two holes mount it. Kipper2K has a VGA Board for the A600 that had a VGA Connector and a JTAG connector for connecting to the Indivision Board. I have one in one of my A600's and I would love to have a couple more but gave up looking for them. Only problem with PCBWAY and I do use them is the cost of shipping other than that they are great.
the problem with plcc clip ons is it can interfere with any accels attached to the cpu and the hat (even with the hole) will cause the denise to heat up if the airflow is restricted
I wonder if a PLCC pass-through board would be possible - same as with a DIP chip pass-throguh but using PLCC sockets. It should not be all that difficult to solder or desolder a PLCC chip like the Denise - though certainly a higher barrier to entry than doing the same with DIP chips. But I don't know if a 'male' companion to a PLCC socket exists?
Basically yes. Unfortunately the Pis with more grunt handle the GPIO pins differently and have a bottleneck there (or at least that’s what I’ve been told), so we are unlikely to see an AGA capable implementation of this project. At least as far as I know. I think the AGA chips also have different signals on the pins so this mod won’t work at all without major changes.
Interesting video. Do you think it would be better to make the HDMI upgrade in the style of the A520? That is to say, run a ribbon cable from the Denise chip to a socket at the rear where the modulator has been removed? That way no problem breaking the connector! Thanks for uploading.
Any chance there's somewhere t put an HDMI out on an A500? That monochrome plug was always fairly useless, though I don't know if an HDMI socket would fit.
I think you can run a flat flex through the cooling vents and 3D print a little enclosure for an HDMI socket. You would have to cut the case to have a real internal solution for the A500 though I’m afraid.
Very interesting video!! I would love to get something like this for my A600 too. I have a bunch of them but my main one that i had since childhood is almost fully kitted which means there is a Furia inside. Can that Denise adapter fit underneath the Furia? I don't really like the indivision and this seems like a perfect alternative.
I am not 100% sure about the Furia but I think it should fit. The adapter board sits really flat on the board. I have yet to get my hands on a Furia and try.
There is a smaller variant that clips around the chip designed by kipper2k: eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=105429&page=4 And then there is the original small adapter variant by c0pperdragon that you solder with wires that you can place anywhere: github.com/c0pperdragon/Amiga-Digital-Video
Great Video again. When I get it right only the black part of the connector is broken. Just get it out of another connector carefully and slide it in the broken one. This should do the trick
Yes, that would be a solution. Unfortunately I don’t have any matching connectors I could salvage the part from. I just ordered a replacement, should be easy to fit.
Hello Jan. Would You mind to tell me where I can buy full hardware for this solution, please? I was trying to find a shop following your links but I failed :( ... Thank You! Great movie with great solutions! :)
Stuff happens, don't sweat it. I'm certainly no one to talk. As for testing, there's a reason why it never gets out of Beta... :) Nice tee shirt, now you need a Fanny tee. :)
I got lucky. My A600HD (still in original box) is as white as the day it was born. Never performed any retro-bright on it. I have a C128 in the original box too. When I got it, it was super white. Today, it's a dingy yellow. Despite being in the box the entire time in a climate controlled, dark room. So it's the luck of the draw. So yeah..they can go yellow even with no UV (although UV accelerates the process).
i always wonder why every youtube cuts out the booting of the modded amigas. How much does it take to get a picture after booting the amiga? it isn´t instant anymore or am i wrong?
You can also desolder a few electrolytic capacitors that are part of the RF module circuit (including mono audio output filtering for the RF signal) as they serve no purpose anymore. (Look at the schematics for reference: www.amigawiki.org/doku.php?id=en:service:schematics) The fewer electrolytics in the machine the better. Or if you're recapping a A600/1200 while also removing the RF module in one go, it makes no sense to replace these functionless capacitors, just remove them. That's what I did on my A1200.
I may be wrong but as I understand it, the RF-Modulator also generates the composite video signal. So you might as well remove the yellow RCA plug next to it... and I guess the remaining hole could very conveniently be used for the RGB-to-HDMI's menu button, extending the microSD/TF reader for the Pi-Zero or both, maybe? - Jan, I have already successfully build an RGB-to-HDMI into my friends A500... and would now like to try it with my Commodore 128's 80 column display. But the more I look at hoglet67's RGB-to-HDMI github page, the more confused I just seem to get... on what version and/or adaptor board (and so on) to get. - I can't seem to find any YT-videos or step-by-step guides on it. So, I would really love if you would consider making a similar video for the C128.
The composite video is generated by the chip at U12 (CXA1145 Encoder), it's output is fed to both the modulator and the yellow RCA composite jack. The composite should still work fine without the modulator.
Geht es nur meinem Amiga 600 so, oder wird der Denise bei Deinem 600er auch so warm / fast heiß? Ich frage nur deshalb, weil ich mir auch so ein RGBtoHDMI bauen will, aber Bedenken habe, weil der Denise so warm wird und unter dem PLCC Sockel dann ein Wärmestau entstehen wird.
Denise wird im normalen Betrieb bei mir auch recht warm. Die Chips können aber auf jeden Fall einiges vertragen und ich denke, auch mit dem Mod bleibt das alles im Rahmen. Ich konnte nach stundenlangem Betrieb keine zu hohen Temperaturen feststellen. Joachim hat bei der neuesten Version des PCBs auch die Lüftungslöcher nochmal vergrößert, damit es da keine Komplikationen gibt.
It's a custom piece that one of the project creators routed for me. I don't think it's available anywhere but it should be relatively easy to make something similar yourself.
A great mod, indeed. But my fear is that in 10 years we’ll be saying «oh, those motherboards which still have the RF modulator onboard and is untouched are extra rare» ;)
Just the HDMI with this project. You might want to look up the PiStorm project though which is a Pi based accelerator for the Amigas. :)
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Hm... Ist das eine gelbe Sunnyline-Maus, die mir in meiner "Farbsammlung" noch fehlt, oder ist das einfach nur der übliche Gilb-Farbton der im Video etwas mehr shiny aussieht, als er eigentlich ist?
Ist tatsächlich eine gelbe Sunnyline. Die gebe ich allerdings nicht her, war die letzte Maus die ich „back in the day“ an meinem A2000 benutzt habe. ;)
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Ach, kein Problem. Ich wusste nur bisher gar nicht, dass es die Maus auch in Gelb (nicht "Gilb") gab, aber da kann ich mich ja nun auf die Suche machen ^^
Hi Jan - are you sure that you broke the adapter? I can't get the the video output to work with a flat flex cable and I have read of others a having similar issues. I've replaced the flex cable and adpaters but still no output unless I plug directly into the pi with an hdmi cable.
Mine works without any problems after I replaced the connector. Are you sure the flat flex is fully inserted and locked into the connectors and in the correct orientation etc? It‘s literally just an extension of the original connector on the Pi so that’s the only explanation I can think of why it wouldn’t work. 🤔
@@JanBeta as in your video I have the silver connectors facing up as I connect. The connection feels snug and tight once locked in place so it really is weird. i guess it is not possible to blow something if the cable orientation is wrong.
@@JanBeta so it seems that the problem is the female hdmi adapter which the monitor cable plugs into. I switched this out for a different type and now the signal works. The problematic adapater is a slightly different type, it has a hinged clip which close down on the cable as opposed the type used in your video with the two clips either side of the cable. I need this type of adapter as it is slimmer and fits the 3D printed caddy I have. Likely I have been sent a defective part I guess.
@@robbune1792 I'm planning to do this mod to my Amiga 600. The only part I can't get hold of is the HDMI mount. You mentioned a 3D printed caddy for the HDMI port. Could you please let me know where I could find the files (STL, OBJ, etc) to get one of these 3D printed myself?
This Pi mod is a very nice way to get these old Amiga's to connect to modern displays. Now if only you could fit an accelerator along side it which I don't really see a way to do since the CPU on these looks to have been soldered on.
A600 Accelerators sit on top of the CPU - much like this RGBtoHDMI sits on the Denise - The Furia is one such accelerator lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=105 - whether all of these things can play nice together is to be seen, it seems like the people that designed the RGBtoHDMI mod attempted to make their parts very low profile
I think most accelerators should still fit with the RGBtoHDMI installed. They made it extremely low profile indeed. Unfortunately i don’t have a Furia to try it (yet).
Hi Jan, wäre schön, wenn Du für uns hier in Kontinentaleuropa die Boards bestellen könntest .. dann braucht das nicht jeder, im "Einzelnen", zu machen ... Danke.
Hi Jan, I have tried to DL the Gerber files for the A600 Denise PCB to have a PCB made. the Store i am using has asked me for a sequence. Could you please help with this ?
I'm also trying to understand how to have this item, trying to contact IanB but nothing...I am very sorry not to be able to participate in this project, there is not all the necessary information for people who do not have high technical skills, and no help in the forums or anything else ... I think I will have to give up
No, the AGA Amigas use a completely different video circuit and the Pi would not be able to handle the bit depth of the AGA modes even if you could get the necessary signals from the Amiga (which would be a bit more elaborate than plugging a socket between some chips). You can obviously still convert the RGB output using the general purpose version of the RGBtoHDMI externally. But that’s using the analog signals so it’s not going to be as crisp.
I put it in there the wrong way around at first, but reversed it later to no avail. I actually edited out a longer segment of me swearing and trying to make it work… :D
1:27 What I really dislike about this upscaler is the image clipping on the right side. In overscan games, the frame is cut off. It cannot be corrected in any way.
@@JanBeta Hmmmm... I asked about the possibility of doing a socket adaptor like this, just for ScanPlusECS scandoubler, in the past. You know, the one that uses a dip socketed denise on top. (Sandwich solution). Back before individual launched their IndivisionECS-V2 scandoubler. And people said it was impossible, because of space and all that. It is to give the 600 a second scandoubler solution. If the ScanPlusECS takes the Denise on top, and the RGB port are still working, then it must be the signals just being hooked uo to the pins, and therefor it should be no issue if the scandoubler is before or after the denise chip. But I did not design anything, because I can not design PCB's and I have no experience in that. So it is just an idea that I had back then. I am still curious if a Furia will fitt on top. That would make an Amiga600 really awesomme. Just imagine.... Furia-020 RGBtoHDMI 2mb ChipRam (individual computers) Floppy internally Gotek externally IndivisionECS-V2 Angled IDE/CF with 44 pin port Mikrodrive HDD drive CD (ribbon cable through PCMCIA slot)
You weren’t kidding when you said it was an elegant solution. So satisfying how the HDMI socket fits in the case hole there. Nice work everyone involved! 👍🕹️
Thanks! Yes, beautiful work indeed. And really handy to have HDMI in this small footprint Amiga. :)
Jan this is AMAZING. Thanks so much to Joachim and you for demoing. This is my next Amiga project.
Thanks! Hope it works well for you. :)
No need to feel bad for breaking that flat flex connector. Those things can be a pain in the ass even under ideal conditions. Keep up the great work!
In failure we learn :)
And Turrican 2 ... how I cannot love videos like this! :)
I've been waiting for a A600 version. Thanks for the video, Jan
Thanks for shooting this with all the screw-ups in. Makes me feel better about my own shoddy work ;) How is Interlace modes?
Thanks! I always leave my mistakes in the videos so people don’t have to repeat them… :D interlace modes work beautifully and flicker free. Only for the OCS modes though, super hi res and the other ECS stuff looks a bit messy and is missing some pixels.
To err is human, to really screw up get Jan ^^
Wonderful solution to get HDMI for the A600, great work!
I think this will be my solution for my newly bought A600 which will arrive in a few days. This looks awesome and no one will even know what happened inside :D
Jaaaaay, I was getting bored, thanks Jan! :)
I little tiny let down at the end, but I'm sure there will be a follow up video 😁. A fun video. Beautiful image quality and fantastic upgrade. 😊👍
Bummer you broke the connector. Happens.
Keep up the good work jan!
Thank you! :)
So very glad someone like Jan allows us to see all the wonderful upgrades done in place. Upgrades my hands no longer let me do on my own. Gives me great pleasure watching these.
Thanks! Sorry to hear you are not able to do these mods yourself anymore. Glad you at least get some pleasure from watching the videos! :)
Wow, a very nice solution for A600 owners. Don't beat yourself up on the locking tab, many of us have broken one, I know I have. Very delicate little things! I bought an AGA MK3 for my 1200 and I have to get a mounting tray for the HDMI as well.
Don't worry Jan, its only a cable.
We still love you :P
Haha, thanks! :D
@@JanBeta You know, as I watched you struggle with tha ribbon I realised that this device is poorely designed. It could be (pcb)waaaaaaay better in a different design. No ribbon, but desoldering the RGB and have a single PCB with a DVI / HDMI out to completely replace the RGB out in front of Denise. This 2.0 version could make the mod almost factory looking, and then we could get rid of all legacy outputs RF, Comp, RGG plus that giant cap that would be useless. Someone should do this as it makes much more sense ans it only needs the Pi mounted parallel to the PCB, where theres much room from the removed HDD (everyone is using SD/CF cards anyway). Here's a mockup of how it could look. Much simpler and actually cheaper too. i.imgur.com/FfF6GwE.jpeg
That is what I am keeping my empty RF port for on my A1200. I just need those wonderful engineers to work out how to do this for the AGA machines.
Indivision AGA mk3 , just did a similar mod with this card and the rf port
This video has made me want to get an A600 ;)
I never thought I’d ever want one back in the day. But it’s an extremely versatile and useful machine these days. :)
@@JanBeta handy how compact it is :)
@@RetroGameCoders Pi400 might be worth a look if you want convenience/value, not limited to just Amiga software either.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 I did a video about that :) I get real hardware for my code testing but for sure the PiMiga is fantastic
@@RetroGameCoders Should come in handy for testing :)
Casual Amiga fans are better off going the emulation route, but if you're writing code then it's definitely worth having an original around!
A very neat little interface, it's amazing seeing what people come up with. Great video as always Jan, look forward to seeing the follow up.
Wonderful solution, pity Amiga 600 are so expensive. I guess you'll have to reset the "counting days without accidents" plate on the wall, as you broke the HDMI connector :-))))
Fantastic video! Seriously thinking of doing this!
Always good watching you mod a Amiga 👍
Jan,
fantastic work, as usual. :)
Could You tell me where did You buy that SD card angle interface and SD card to IDE adapter?
Thanks a lot and all the best,
Greg
Bravo Ian. Werden wier auch im nachstes eine neue auch fuhr den A1200 bekommen?
Great video! Will be doing this to my 600, just need something similar for my 1200 now..
Thanks! Unfortunately the Pi is not powerful enough for the AGA screen modes. And as far as I know the signals are processed differently so there would have to be a whole different method in order for this to work. Maybe someday.
@@JanBeta indivision aga mk3? Did a similar mod with it and the rf port..
Interesting, I didn't know you could put a PLCC socket in reverse
Double sided tape doesn't work well for long term mounting in my experience because it tends to be very temperature sensitive -- tape adhesive gets brittle and loses its stick when it's cold, and it melts when it's hot, and even at the best of times it tends to creep and gradually let go if subjected to any significant force. A really good quality tape can work for lightweight things that are at room temperature all the time, but especially if you're sticking down electronics like a Pi which will get warm and melt the tape adhesive, I can't recommend it -- hot glue, silicone, and zipties are my go-tos now for electronic parts inside a case if I'm not doing it properly with screws.
There are tape adhesives that can work over larger temperature ranges for longer times but in my experience they're really hard to remove and then I might as well be dealing with glue...
What about putting the rpi in a box connected to the external rbg video connector instead, since this also happens to provide 5v on pin 23?
Something like the old A520 adapter, just smaller.
That would work but would be limited to the analog signals, similar to a standard RGB upscaler. The mod uses the digital signals provided to the Denise to generate the Full HD picture so the quality is way better.
@@JanBeta I see, thanks.
Whoopsies. I can't remember if I was thinking you should connect the flat flex cable to the HDMI socket before you stuck it to the mount. Perhaps you needed instructions Jan?
Have to admit I wasn't expecting to see someone halfway across the world wearing a Bikini Kill shirt! :) I thought they'd only ever really gotten big in my region.
I heard about them in the context of Nirvana and I’ve been a fan ever since I first listened to their music. :)
Hi Jan, do you have the DFX file for cutting the acryllic plate for the HDMI slot?
Thanks for good videos, I am on your patreon list now 🤜🤛
Nice relly nice ideas for old computers. Little tip, dont use double side tape for secure HDMI port in this acrylic adapter. Because glue on tape can easy melt after use in hot case, and huge fat HDMI cable can easy lift glued HDMI port and made big mad devastation inside case. Or if have luck only destroy signal tape. I see many HDMI ports soldered and lifted from PCB. Better use hot glue or best some acrilic glue or best way any 2 ingrediens nonconductive glue. Glues like 1s Super Glue can made shorts or another disasters. Hot glue is very safe and can easy dismount with hot air.
Grettings and cherrs :D
Thanks! Good point about the double sided tape. I‘m going to look into adding something more permanent next time I open the A600. :)
Just need one for the A1200 now
That would take a completely different type of hardware. As a PI is not capeable to handle AGA.
Next video should be about HDMI module for C64 :)
There is a VIC-II replacement in the works actually. I’m very likely going to make a video about it when the project is finished and I get my hands on one. :D
@@JanBeta I'm looking forward. ;)
Those damned ribbon cable connectors are the bane of my existence. I can never get them right without breaking them at least twice.
My colleagues all use tweezers when working with FFC\FPC connectors. I use my fingers and have never broken one which can be unfortunate because they all now come to me when they need their development kit reconfigured.
new video of Jan, repair of the elektra beckum welder pcb has to wait.
Use of 4 core SBC for hdmi video output is a crazy thing!!
In hindsight, you probably should have inserted the flat flex cable to the HDMI out board, before you stuck it down on the acrylic part 🙂
Jan, great video. quick question, if you are playing a very fast reaction time game, is there any noticeable lag? Not that i would ever be able to tell, but rapid fire grandchildren might.
Will be nice to have a RTG embedded into the Pi to display both video source on the same output.
Looks great. Nice vid. Thanks.
Jan, thanks for the detailed video you've uploaded. Great to see this solution working for the 600.
I've had a look to do this myself, but I can not find the adapter board for the A600 mentioned. (the one with the cable and Denise adapter) Is there any way to aquire it preready made, as shown?
Many thanks, Job
I wonder if it's possible to merge this project with the PiStorm? The Pi 4 should have enough power to do both, but GPIO pins being used on both projects might complicate things...
Work is in progress; linuxjedi.co.uk/2021/06/13/this-week-in-pistorm-2021-06-13/
This is a nice and neat solution.
I am looking at possibly doing something similar for my Indivision MK3 where I can use a USB plug into the smaller board, then using a flat ribbon can then direct the output to the socket as you have here. I feel this would be look more elegant (at least externally) & would free up the back port of the A1200 for other things (e.g. easier CF card hardrive access). I just wish I had a way of getting hold of the acrylic/perspex mouting plate & screws
Hallo Jan,
Danke erstmal für deine guten Videos.
Ich habe schon lange ein Problem mit 2 meiner Amiga 600. Ich Habe immer Vertikale Streifen im Bild, und hab schon so manche Sachen ausprobiert. (Natürlich über RGB, und auch mit OSSC) Daher bin ich nun auf dein Video mit der HDMI Lösung gestoßen. Die erste Frage: Ich habe eine Turbokarte Furia EC02 die den Denise Chip verdeckt. Würde es trozdem dann passen wegen Platz usw.? Und die Zweite Frage: Hast du einen Link wo man alles Sachen kaufen kann dazu in einem Set?
Danke schon mal für die Antworten.
Gruß
Matze
Thank you very much for everything you do.
Awesome video! I do have a A600 but I can nowhere find this Adapter. Do you have any idea whre to buy this little beast?
🤔🤔🤔🤔
You are very skilful guy!
great vid! quick question, what is the two tone grey box that is directly under your monitor? is it an oscilloscope? if so make and model please
It’s my new Keysight scope. I made a whole video about it a while back. I absolutely love it! :)
have 1 last question, the quality of the graphics on this certain game, does this rgb2hdmi thingy work good with the game Bubble & squeak? not sure if you've tested that game on it but the graphics on that game look great and need to run smooth.
So far, it did work very well with everything I threw at it. I don't think I've tried that particular game but chances are that it's going to work fine just like everything else (except for the higher screen resolutions introduced with the ECS chipset--which are VERY seldomly used in games).
Soluzione stupenda quella dell'HDMI al posto del modulatore RF, L'HDMI si vede molto meglio dell'RF.gran lavoro
Nice T-Shirt @JanBeta! 😁
Thank you!
Might have been a good idea to attach the flat ribbon cable to the HDMI connector before securing it in place.
Thanks for the video.
Yes, indeed. I‘m definitely going to do that when I get the replacement part. :D
12:30 so where I can order that adapter?
oh btw your link to pcb is broken so no first pcb for free unfortunately
Your not alone in the mistake department we all have been there and anyone who says they don't make mistakes has absolutely no credibility. The flat flex idea is pretty nice but if your always working on your Amiga its maybe not the best solution and a short cable would be better. You could have PCBWAY make up a PCB where you can solder a couple HDMI Connectors on the board and then using those same two holes mount it. Kipper2K has a VGA Board for the A600 that had a VGA Connector and a JTAG connector for connecting to the Indivision Board. I have one in one of my A600's and I would love to have a couple more but gave up looking for them. Only problem with PCBWAY and I do use them is the cost of shipping other than that they are great.
the problem with plcc clip ons is it can interfere with any accels attached to the cpu and the hat (even with the hole) will cause the denise to heat up if the airflow is restricted
I wonder if a PLCC pass-through board would be possible - same as with a DIP chip pass-throguh but using PLCC sockets. It should not be all that difficult to solder or desolder a PLCC chip like the Denise - though certainly a higher barrier to entry than doing the same with DIP chips. But I don't know if a 'male' companion to a PLCC socket exists?
@@krnlg github.com/c0pperdragon/Amiga-Digital-Video/issues/37
The limitation of OCS/ECS - is the limitation simply that of the amount of “grunt” available on the Pi0?
Basically yes. Unfortunately the Pis with more grunt handle the GPIO pins differently and have a bottleneck there (or at least that’s what I’ve been told), so we are unlikely to see an AGA capable implementation of this project. At least as far as I know. I think the AGA chips also have different signals on the pins so this mod won’t work at all without major changes.
Interesting video. Do you think it would be better to make the HDMI upgrade in the style of the A520? That is to say, run a ribbon cable from the Denise chip to a socket at the rear where the modulator has been removed? That way no problem breaking the connector! Thanks for uploading.
Any chance there's somewhere t put an HDMI out on an A500? That monochrome plug was always fairly useless, though I don't know if an HDMI socket would fit.
I think you can run a flat flex through the cooling vents and 3D print a little enclosure for an HDMI socket. You would have to cut the case to have a real internal solution for the A500 though I’m afraid.
Hi, how to get only the black acrylic part instead of RF modulator ?
No joke and all respect, but it makes me feel better when I see people make similar mistakes to the ones I've made.
Very interesting video!! I would love to get something like this for my A600 too. I have a bunch of them but my main one that i had since childhood is almost fully kitted which means there is a Furia inside. Can that Denise adapter fit underneath the Furia? I don't really like the indivision and this seems like a perfect alternative.
I am not 100% sure about the Furia but I think it should fit. The adapter board sits really flat on the board. I have yet to get my hands on a Furia and try.
There is a smaller variant that clips around the chip designed by kipper2k: eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=105429&page=4
And then there is the original small adapter variant by c0pperdragon that you solder with wires that you can place anywhere: github.com/c0pperdragon/Amiga-Digital-Video
Great Video again. When I get it right only the black part of the connector is broken. Just get it out of another connector carefully and slide it in the broken one. This should do the trick
Yes, that would be a solution. Unfortunately I don’t have any matching connectors I could salvage the part from. I just ordered a replacement, should be easy to fit.
Hello Jan. Would You mind to tell me where I can buy full hardware for this solution, please? I was trying to find a shop following your links but I failed :( ... Thank You! Great movie with great solutions! :)
Stuff happens, don't sweat it. I'm certainly no one to talk. As for testing, there's a reason why it never gets out of Beta... :)
Nice tee shirt, now you need a Fanny tee. :)
I got lucky. My A600HD (still in original box) is as white as the day it was born. Never performed any retro-bright on it. I have a C128 in the original box too. When I got it, it was super white. Today, it's a dingy yellow. Despite being in the box the entire time in a climate controlled, dark room. So it's the luck of the draw. So yeah..they can go yellow even with no UV (although UV accelerates the process).
I suspect heat might play a part in the yellowing process.
A600 ❤
A UV blocking coating after retrobriting could help it last longer.
i always wonder why every youtube cuts out the booting of the modded amigas. How much does it take to get a picture after booting the amiga? it isn´t instant anymore or am i wrong?
You can also desolder a few electrolytic capacitors that are part of the RF module circuit (including mono audio output filtering for the RF signal) as they serve no purpose anymore. (Look at the schematics for reference: www.amigawiki.org/doku.php?id=en:service:schematics) The fewer electrolytics in the machine the better. Or if you're recapping a A600/1200 while also removing the RF module in one go, it makes no sense to replace these functionless capacitors, just remove them. That's what I did on my A1200.
The 3 caps next to the front of the modulator are no longer required. I left them off when i recapped my Amiga A600's
Oh, good call. I might do that in the future!
I may be wrong but as I understand it, the RF-Modulator also generates the composite video signal. So you might as well remove the yellow RCA plug next to it... and I guess the remaining hole could very conveniently be used for the RGB-to-HDMI's menu button, extending the microSD/TF reader for the Pi-Zero or both, maybe?
- Jan, I have already successfully build an RGB-to-HDMI into my friends A500... and would now like to try it with my Commodore 128's 80 column display. But the more I look at hoglet67's
RGB-to-HDMI github page, the more confused I just seem to get... on what version and/or adaptor board (and so on) to get.
- I can't seem to find any YT-videos or step-by-step guides on it. So, I would really love if you would consider making a similar video for the C128.
The composite video is generated by the chip at U12 (CXA1145 Encoder), it's output is fed to both the modulator and the yellow RCA composite jack. The composite should still work fine without the modulator.
Now, would that Denise bit fit under a Furia?
Yes it fit under the Furia
Geht es nur meinem Amiga 600 so, oder wird der Denise bei Deinem 600er auch so warm / fast heiß?
Ich frage nur deshalb, weil ich mir auch so ein RGBtoHDMI bauen will, aber Bedenken habe, weil der Denise so warm wird und unter dem PLCC Sockel dann ein Wärmestau entstehen wird.
Denise wird im normalen Betrieb bei mir auch recht warm. Die Chips können aber auf jeden Fall einiges vertragen und ich denke, auch mit dem Mod bleibt das alles im Rahmen. Ich konnte nach stundenlangem Betrieb keine zu hohen Temperaturen feststellen. Joachim hat bei der neuesten Version des PCBs auch die Lüftungslöcher nochmal vergrößert, damit es da keine Komplikationen gibt.
Question can you still use the old RGB Output (23 pin Dsub) and connect RTC monitor along the site with or insted HDMI?
Yes, the regular video out is unaffected by the mod. :)
amazing video!!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! :)
Hi, where can I find the support where you glued the HDMI output and then screwed it to the Amiga? Thank you
It's a custom piece that one of the project creators routed for me. I don't think it's available anywhere but it should be relatively easy to make something similar yourself.
@@JanBeta ah ok, thanks
I LOVE the shirt, Jan! Bikini Kill is fantastic!!!!!
They are!
No you didn’t fail, you just created a future update for the project. I know all about those connections, they can be a right pain at times.
Haha, yes. I‘m trying to stay positive about it. At least hopefully people watching can learn from my mistakes. :D
Great video do you please have a link to where to buy the mounting plate?
It is a custom piece that Joachim made. It’s not a very complex design, you should be able to make something similar with little effort.
Been fighting flat flex for a while now, and I'm pretty sure you just put the flex upside down in the connector.
the retainer can't have pins on it, so fitting the cable the right way around is important.
Yes, makes sense! I tried both ways on both ends to no avail. I edited out a longer segment of me trying and swearing. ;)
Nice video good job
A great mod, indeed. But my fear is that in 10 years we’ll be saying «oh, those motherboards which still have the RF modulator onboard and is untouched are extra rare» ;)
I‘m going to keep the modulator and I can always put it back in, that’s the beauty of this mod.
Hallo I have question you add raspberry pi do you also get the acceleration of the pi or is it only to connect the hdmi
Just the HDMI with this project. You might want to look up the PiStorm project though which is a Pi based accelerator for the Amigas. :)
Hm... Ist das eine gelbe Sunnyline-Maus, die mir in meiner "Farbsammlung" noch fehlt, oder ist das einfach nur der übliche Gilb-Farbton der im Video etwas mehr shiny aussieht, als er eigentlich ist?
Ist tatsächlich eine gelbe Sunnyline. Die gebe ich allerdings nicht her, war die letzte Maus die ich „back in the day“ an meinem A2000 benutzt habe. ;)
Ach, kein Problem. Ich wusste nur bisher gar nicht, dass es die Maus auch in Gelb (nicht "Gilb") gab, aber da kann ich mich ja nun auf die Suche machen ^^
Awesome mod 👏😃
Hi Jan - are you sure that you broke the adapter? I can't get the the video output to work with a flat flex cable and I have read of others a having similar issues. I've replaced the flex cable and adpaters but still no output unless I plug directly into the pi with an hdmi cable.
Mine works without any problems after I replaced the connector. Are you sure the flat flex is fully inserted and locked into the connectors and in the correct orientation etc? It‘s literally just an extension of the original connector on the Pi so that’s the only explanation I can think of why it wouldn’t work. 🤔
@@JanBeta as in your video I have the silver connectors facing up as I connect. The connection feels snug and tight once locked in place so it really is weird. i guess it is not possible to blow something if the cable orientation is wrong.
@@JanBeta so it seems that the problem is the female hdmi adapter which the monitor cable plugs into. I switched this out for a different type and now the signal works. The problematic adapater is a slightly different type, it has a hinged clip which close down on the cable as opposed the type used in your video with the two clips either side of the cable. I need this type of adapter as it is slimmer and fits the 3D printed caddy I have. Likely I have been sent a defective part I guess.
@@robbune1792 I'm planning to do this mod to my Amiga 600. The only part I can't get hold of is the HDMI mount. You mentioned a 3D printed caddy for the HDMI port. Could you please let me know where I could find the files (STL, OBJ, etc) to get one of these 3D printed myself?
This Pi mod is a very nice way to get these old Amiga's to connect to modern displays. Now if only you could fit an accelerator along side it which I don't really see a way to do since the CPU on these looks to have been soldered on.
A600 Accelerators sit on top of the CPU - much like this RGBtoHDMI sits on the Denise - The Furia is one such accelerator lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=105 - whether all of these things can play nice together is to be seen, it seems like the people that designed the RGBtoHDMI mod attempted to make their parts very low profile
I think most accelerators should still fit with the RGBtoHDMI installed. They made it extremely low profile indeed. Unfortunately i don’t have a Furia to try it (yet).
Hi Jan, wäre schön, wenn Du für uns hier in Kontinentaleuropa die Boards bestellen könntest .. dann braucht das nicht jeder, im "Einzelnen", zu machen ... Danke.
Love the shirt!
Do you know anywhere that has this available as a kit for sale? All I see is sold out. Thanks. :)
Unfortunately I don’t know any place that sells these. Maybe you could try contacting the creators in the forum?
Hi Jan,
I have tried to DL the Gerber files for the A600 Denise PCB to have a PCB made. the Store i am using has asked me for a sequence. Could you please help with this ?
I'm also trying to understand how to have this item, trying to contact IanB but nothing...I am very sorry not to be able to participate in this project, there is not all the necessary information for people who do not have high technical skills, and no help in the forums or anything else ... I think I will have to give up
@@vitoamoroso7624 hopefully i can get sorted. If i do i will let you know as i would be able to get an extra one made for you.
@@paulyoung823 thank you very much :-)
I get interface when it loads audio on my 600 using a rgb scart
Is there input lag?
Extremely little! I was not able to measure it with the equipment I have at least. Let alone notice it while playing games etc.
Hi. It's possible to mount on A1200 ?
No, the AGA Amigas use a completely different video circuit and the Pi would not be able to handle the bit depth of the AGA modes even if you could get the necessary signals from the Amiga (which would be a bit more elaborate than plugging a socket between some chips). You can obviously still convert the RGB output using the general purpose version of the RGBtoHDMI externally. But that’s using the analog signals so it’s not going to be as crisp.
I always think the 600 looks weird. Like it's either too tall or too skinny or both. lol
Yeah, hot air is hot! Who'd of thought...
I’m guessing you had the ribbon around the right way, IE the metal fingers contacting the pins in the ZIF socket
I put it in there the wrong way around at first, but reversed it later to no avail. I actually edited out a longer segment of me swearing and trying to make it work… :D
Always have to have the necessary "Pee Yellow" mouse on hand. I bet that thing was literally the same color as the computer at one point.
That is a Sunnyline mouse which came in all kind of fancy colors. I have a blue one, I can imagine that there also was a yellow version.
1:27 What I really dislike about this upscaler is the image clipping on the right side. In overscan games, the frame is cut off. It cannot be corrected in any way.
That’s definitely a caveat. These don’t handle overscan screen modes well. Other than that I’m really pleased with the RGBtoHDMI.
Nice... I love the denise adaptor. Can it perhaps fit under a Furia-020?
I think it is designed to leave enough room for the Furia (it sits very flat on the chip). I don’t have one to test though.
@@JanBeta Hmmmm... I asked about the possibility of doing a socket adaptor like this, just for ScanPlusECS scandoubler, in the past. You know, the one that uses a dip socketed denise on top. (Sandwich solution). Back before individual launched their IndivisionECS-V2 scandoubler. And people said it was impossible, because of space and all that. It is to give the 600 a second scandoubler solution.
If the ScanPlusECS takes the Denise on top, and the RGB port are still working, then it must be the signals just being hooked uo to the pins, and therefor it should be no issue if the scandoubler is before or after the denise chip.
But I did not design anything, because I can not design PCB's and I have no experience in that. So it is just an idea that I had back then. I am still curious if a Furia will fitt on top. That would make an Amiga600 really awesomme. Just imagine....
Furia-020
RGBtoHDMI
2mb ChipRam (individual computers)
Floppy internally
Gotek externally
IndivisionECS-V2
Angled IDE/CF with 44 pin port
Mikrodrive HDD drive
CD (ribbon cable through PCMCIA slot)