Usually, when it comes to remove a smd electrolytic cap, rotating it 90° one time is ok to have it removed properly, especially if you can catch it on the lower plastic part. The advantage is also that usually, the legs will come with the cap, and just a few solder will remain instead of a broken leg.
When you're using the copper braid to wick up solder off the board it makes it go a little faster if you put a tiny bit of solder on the tip of your iron first, that way you aren't heating up the surrounding area as much
you did say you are not good at it, i have seen far worse and your way is far better than some ,but yes there are far better ways !!!! thanks for sharing and being honest
Usually, when it comes to remove a smd electrolytic cap, rotating it 90° one time is ok to have it removed properly, especially if you can catch it on the lower plastic part. The advantage is also that usually, the legs will come with the cap, and just a few solder will remain instead of a broken leg.
When you're using the copper braid to wick up solder off the board it makes it go a little faster if you put a tiny bit of solder on the tip of your iron first, that way you aren't heating up the surrounding area as much
220 is correct. the third digit is the multiplier 22*(10^0)=22uF. 220uF would be 221
you did say you are not good at it, i have seen far worse and your way is far better than some ,but yes there are far better ways !!!! thanks for sharing and being honest
32:55 Well, that's an interesting failure mode!
Looks like some caps leaked and some traces are corroded
I thought the same, IIRC under one of the capacitors near the mentioned opamp there was some leakage and corroded traces ...