[Thank You (Part 2)] ... Terrific work and repair. Also great how you have a steady, properly installed camera to give you both hands usage. Great video.
Just found your good tear down video. I have a 06 Lucerne with the 4t65e trans. It has harsh shifts at times 1-3 but no 4th gear. No codes. Moves through manual 1-3 normally. Trans does not slip. Fluid is good and not burnt. I know the 4th clutch splines strip out on earlier models but I am thinking valves hanging up in the valve body. Your thoughts or things to test or look for? Someone has been in the trans a some point in its life before me.
I have a 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix.. With the 4T65E HD Transmission.. no engine light.. and i have been having issues with the transmission.. When i am at a stop.. and hit the gas to move forward the car barley moves forward , revs up then clunks into gear.. this happens randomly not everytime.. i have done fluid change.. filter change.. Lucas transmission fix.. helped symptoms for about 10,000 miles now its doing it again more often.. about to do another flush and about to add a stronger magnet in the drop pan.. could this be issues with PCS or shift solenoids? (remember no engine lights though..) Changing those solenoids doesnt look to much of a hard job.. the rest of it (like your doing in the video is pushing a little to in depth for me..) any ideas?? Thanks
on those small very tight bolts on right side under cover, take a hardened impact 6 point socket, GRIND THE TAPERED LEAD off the socket so there is no play- take your time and try all your 6 pt. sockets to find one that fits the tightest, then break them loose with a breaker bar. you can also "gently" heat the aluminum case with a plumbers propane torch just a tiny bit, to expand it slightly to get them loose. worst case pound on a worn socket smaller size and take them out, and replace the bolts. I would not tighten them first, you may snap them off in the case- then you have a real puss job.
hi, i have a 2004 chevy malibu 3.5l v6 its the 4T45E, with 160k km on it and the person has the car before me has a driver side leak at the drive shaft and the trans running very low in fluid (remove the screw on the side of the trans to check level and nothing get out, take tierap check if it has some thing and my mech finaly find fluid on the pan but not so much) and do a trans fuild remplacement with additive and add a new filter(never done before) at 155k km. my problem is when the transmission get hot (like driving 10km), the shifting between 2-3 and sometimes 3-4 its like slipping the rpm go from 2k to 2500 to 2800 and then go in gear its taking like 800ms to change gear but when the TC is locked the gear doenst sleep at all, in 2nd i push the pedal to the floor and it doesnt slip. I clear the ECM and when it shifting it take 6s to shift from 1st to 2nd and when it shift it gives an hard jolt and shifting not so bad in 2-3 but sliping sometimes. after the ECM learn shift point it stop to give jolt, i have see something strange when i go to 2k to 3k RPM it shift very good 2-3 not slipping at all (few times it slip but very few) , when i drive in low (with up/down switch)after a pcm reset it shift good but slip like in drive on 2-3 and from 1-2 it shift good no jolt but during 2second when he is in 2nd he have no power i can push the pedcal to the floor and the rpm stay the same and the car still take speed and after the 2second he give a small jolt like it kick well in the gear. Do you have any idea what it can be? cause my mech told me you need a transmission rebuild and it cost 3k CAD (more than i buy the car) cause when i buy it it was cold outside and it was the winter (i live in quebec) so the trans work fine i see nothing strange i push it , no prob, the engine perfect no leak dont eat any oil full of power no slush in valve cover after 6k km on this oil change it still look like new a little brown but not so much. cause my mech told me you have 2 choice: rebuild or wait it broke it can be taking from today to 2-3years or more but i dislike to have this prob and i want to repair it by myself, i have knowledge in mechanic but few equipement like pneumatic tools, wrench and few other stuff. so do you have an idea of what is the prob and how i can repair it easily, and you made great video :)
Sorry, I have not worked on a 4t45e. If the fluid level is full and the transmission is slipping you more than likely need a new/rebuilt or used transmission. You may want to look into a used one to keep the cost down.
m ph the 4T45 is close from the 4T65 just few gear ratio difference and the torque it can be aply on it, 4T45 is for max 4000 or 4500lbs car and 4T65 is for max 6000 or 6500 lbs car, and i see for for a rebuild one its cost more than rebuild, but i will made a video to show you cause today the transmission shift very fine no slipping at all than very strange. i made a lots of research and i think its the solenoid or servos but my mech "clean" them when change the filter and put new oil but he didt check the solenoid the bolt still have the antirust on then and look never removed
How similar is this repair for the Volvo XC90's that use the T6 engine and this transmission? A lot of XC90's use this 4 speed transmission and they are constantly failing. At its North American launch for the 2003 model year, the XC90 was presented with a choice of two trim levels, the 2.5 T and the T6. The 2.5 T was the entry level version and offered a 2.5-litre B5254T2 "T5" turbocharged inline-five engine, producing 208 hp (155 kW) and 236 lb⋅ft (320 N⋅m) mated to an Aisin co-developed five-speed AW55-50/51 automatic. The T6 offered a 2.9-litre B6294T twin-turbocharged inline-six with 268 hp (200 kW) and 280 lb⋅ft (380 N⋅m) mated to a GM-sourced, Volvo-modified four-speed 4T65EV/GT automatic. While the 2.5T came standard with front-wheel drive, a Haldex Traction all-wheel drive (AWD) system was optional. The T6 was offered only with the AWD system.
Depends on how good of a mechanic you are. I have all the videos posted for you to do the job. You will need minimum parts of 4th clutch hub, channel plate gaskets, filter, 12 qts fluid, side cover gasket (if yours is damaged), PCS/shift solenoids (highly recommended), and possibly even 4th clutch plates/steels if worn.
Question. Can the turbine shaft with the drive sprockets be removed if transmission is still connected to engine? I'm doing a partial rebuild to correct the P1811 code and I'm doing all of this on the drivers side fender well area. Also can the drive sprocket housing clearance be checked for tolerances "prior" to removal from case? I mean would it work like that? And then having the selective washers on order prior to installation? Or after overhaul will the tolerance for the clearance change?
+m ph Great videos!! I would have never attempted this repair without your videos! One question. At 9:27 in this video you remove a plastic spacer or washer that you said is very easy to break. Mine cracked a little. Should I replace it, and if so do you know what it is called so I can order a new one?
hi there. great videos. thank you . question I have a 07 grand prix. with a faliure. forward band snapped. what would be the easiest fix for a diy guy. replace the band with the transmission still in the car or replace the whole transmission? which would be just a salvage unit. I like the idea of keeping my current unit since I know the history. any advise would be greatly appreciated.
My Pontiac Montana I believe has this same trans. I'm getting a P0742 code after a few hard shifts. I shut the van off for a few minutes and start it up again, and the hard shifts seem to be gone for a time. Is this an issue with the Solenoid, or is it possible it just needs a trans oil and filter change? What would be the prognosis? I don't have a lot of money, and want to get it back to good shape with as little green as possible. Let me know, thank you in advance for any advice.
I have a 4t65e in a 2003 buick rendezvous. Can this transmission be completely rebuilt left in the car???? Is it difficult to reassemble upright like in your video? I have rebuilt many non-transaxle trans but never tried one like this. My transmission will go into gear forward and reverse. Shifts sluggishly, but after heats up will not go into gear. Like neutral all the sudden. When it cools back down it will go again. Reminds me of bad seals - when the oil gets hot is thins out and the seals won't hold pressure. Does this transmission have the clutch packs and seals as many other non transaxle transmissions (like a 4L60E)? Had a lot of metal in pan and also some small needle bearings.
In the car you can do a repair, not a complete rebuild. Since you have alot of metal in the pan I would pull the trans and do a complete rebuild with a torque converter replacement.
m ph I may take the chance and leave it in car. To access trans cover did you just drop sub-frame while supporting engine and trans with a jack? Also, besides removing hub and suspension was the steering shaft the only thing you had to disconnect?
Steve Chancey Yes, the subframe unbolts from the Drivers side, loosen the passenger side cradle bolts half way. D/c the steering shaft. As mentioned I like to d/c the throttle/cruse cable and move the master brake cylinder out of the way. Hold the engine/trans up with a jack either under the oil pan or trans pan. Its fairly tough getting everything back together out the side. I make it look easy in these videos since I have done 30+ this way. In all honesty if you have needle bearings/metal in the pan you are wasting your time by not pulling it and doing a full rebuild.
Jsai K Its the same type of trans, not sure on compatability though. Check out Car-part.com for salvage yards in your area. They have a compatability search tool
when I was putting the transmission back together I accidentally broke the top left bolt. Do you think It would be fine if I just put it back in the car as is ?
If it were my project I would extract the broken bolt and install a new one (easier said than done I know). I say this because a leak in the channel plate passages could cause misc. issues related to internal fluid leakage.
Drop it down in 1 on the gear shifter. If it moves when you rev it up the forward band is broken. In addition if you had the pan down you would see a large chunk of metal sitting in there if the forward band broke.
I would actually NOT recommend doing a rebuild in the car. The best way of doing them is to pull them out, clean everything, replace the TC and go through everything. What I do is repairs in the car, fix whats broke in an attempt to get the car back on the road in 3-4 hours for minimal cost.
Okay. I ask because I have a p1811 code and probably need a new PCS. My car has 170k, so I want to just do a rebuild, but in the mean time I want faster and smoother shifts. I want to install a shift kit instead and hold off on the PCS until rebuild time (early 2014). And the transgo kit is so easy to put in, its making me ask myself why not put it in. If it fixes the shifting, then I dont see why not. same price probably but way easier to do. Do you agree?
I have a 2004 chevy Impala that I will be tearing into soon, but before I do I would like to have readily available information regarding the torque specs for the various bolts that will have to be removed. Where can I find this information? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! And props on the super job of these vids, very helpful!!! Thanks from Canada!!!
Question. Can the turbine shaft with the drive sprockets be removed at this point to install a new turbine shaft o-ring? Also can the drive sprocket housing clearance be checked for tolerances "prior" to removal? I mean would it work to that? And then having the selective washers on order prior to installation? Or after overhaul will the tolerance for the clearance change? Also is it important for the "master" blue link on the chain to be put back on in the same location during Installtion? Lots of questions, sorry, i just want to make sure I don't destroy this transmission as I've never rebuilt on before.
HI, i low forward clutch band, put it all back together and it pulls really good in drive but wont up shift. Not even manually, what do you think i could have done. also i changed all the sensors pcs, both shift, and tcc
It could be just about anything since you took it apart then put it back together. If its stuck in 2nd gear and won't upshift/downshift check and see if all the electrical components are working and plugged in.
Jay Fountains Check out all the PCS videos, those will get the side cover off with the trans in the car. Then check out the Disassembly/reassembly in car video's. Then on top of that you will still need to Rebuild the clutch packs (no videos yet of this). This really is not a DIY job, you need a complete trans rebuild or a used transmission installed. Sorry.
I have a 2006 Grand Prix w/ 4T65e trans (~200K miles). Trying to remove the manual shift shaft assembly (w/internal mode sensor). The "nail head pin" snapped off while trying to remove. now I can't remove shaft. Any idea how to proceed? Any help is appreciated.
I have a 2000 gtp and i had no movement in drive and 3. but it would move in 2 and 1 and reverse, but i had to manually shift from 1 up to drive. thought it was the forward band but it was good. any ideas what this could be. thanks
Every time I see those symptoms the forward band end is broken off on it. Does the forward band look burned? There is a piston with a lip seal that turns it on, there could be an issue with that or even an issue in the valve body
I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix gtp an when you first start it it drives fine in all gears then after a minute of driving if that it acts like its in neutral in all gears now if i turn the car off for 20 seconds in goes roght back into gear never slipped or anything before help please?
Is it hard, I dont feel that it is, BUT I have done many of these. Guess it depends on your mechanical abilities. Check out my videos, I have the entire PCS solenoid replacement I documented
You pulled the forward band out of the trans? A piece of the band breaks off and drops in the pan. About a 2"x2" piece. If you don't want to drop the pan, the band has 2 points it mounts. One is a lug it sits in, the other part is where a rod pushes on it. The part where the rod pushes on it breaks off.
Ha. Yeah, they are not fun. I got so good at doing these this way, I was in and out in a couple hours. First one was an absolute 🥴. I haven’t touched one in a few years though. All those cars in the rust belt are pretty much gone.
@@keysautorepair6038 did you get it done the first time. I just did a 6f35 first time. Full rebuild. I get to jerk it back out since it flares on 1-2 shift🥴. Transmission work is not for the faint of heart
Seperator plate should be checked for wear around the check balls, pump drive makes it more complicated to get in while keeping 4th clutches in place. You could if you were very careful, just trickier.
[Thank You (Part 2)] ... Terrific work and repair. Also great how you have a steady, properly installed camera to give you both hands usage. Great video.
So i can do a rebuild with it still in the car? Besides the kit, solenoids, fluid, filter, and shift kit, what else do you recommend?
Just found your good tear down video. I have a 06 Lucerne with the 4t65e trans. It has harsh shifts at times 1-3 but no 4th gear. No codes. Moves through manual 1-3 normally. Trans does not slip. Fluid is good and not burnt. I know the 4th clutch splines strip out on earlier models but I am thinking valves hanging up in the valve body. Your thoughts or things to test or look for? Someone has been in the trans a some point in its life before me.
Pull it out and rebuild it.
I have a 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix.. With the 4T65E HD Transmission.. no engine light.. and i have been having issues with the transmission.. When i am at a stop.. and hit the gas to move forward the car barley moves forward , revs up then clunks into gear.. this happens randomly not everytime.. i have done fluid change.. filter change.. Lucas transmission fix.. helped symptoms for about 10,000 miles now its doing it again more often.. about to do another flush and about to add a stronger magnet in the drop pan.. could this be issues with PCS or shift solenoids? (remember no engine lights though..) Changing those solenoids doesnt look to much of a hard job.. the rest of it (like your doing in the video is pushing a little to in depth for me..) any ideas?? Thanks
on those small very tight bolts on right side under cover, take a hardened impact 6 point socket, GRIND THE TAPERED LEAD off the socket so there is no play- take your time and try all your 6 pt. sockets to find one that fits the tightest, then break them loose with a breaker bar. you can also "gently" heat the aluminum case with a plumbers propane torch just a tiny bit, to expand it slightly to get them loose. worst case pound on a worn socket smaller size and take them out, and replace the bolts. I would not tighten them first, you may snap them off in the case- then you have a real puss job.
how much does it call for labour to do the forward band? i got a 07 montana with a 3.9l i have it all apart and the guts are the same as seen in video
hi, i have a 2004 chevy malibu 3.5l v6 its the 4T45E, with 160k km on it and the person has the car before me has a driver side leak at the drive shaft and the trans running very low in fluid (remove the screw on the side of the trans to check level and nothing get out, take tierap check if it has some thing and my mech finaly find fluid on the pan but not so much) and do a trans fuild remplacement with additive and add a new filter(never done before) at 155k km. my problem is when the transmission get hot (like driving 10km), the shifting between 2-3 and sometimes 3-4 its like slipping the rpm go from 2k to 2500 to 2800 and then go in gear its taking like 800ms to change gear but when the TC is locked the gear doenst sleep at all, in 2nd i push the pedal to the floor and it doesnt slip. I clear the ECM and when it shifting it take 6s to shift from 1st to 2nd and when it shift it gives an hard jolt and shifting not so bad in 2-3 but sliping sometimes. after the ECM learn shift point it stop to give jolt, i have see something strange when i go to 2k to 3k RPM it shift very good 2-3 not slipping at all (few times it slip but very few) , when i drive in low (with up/down switch)after a pcm reset it shift good but slip like in drive on 2-3 and from 1-2 it shift good no jolt but during 2second when he is in 2nd he have no power i can push the pedcal to the floor and the rpm stay the same and the car still take speed and after the 2second he give a small jolt like it kick well in the gear. Do you have any idea what it can be? cause my mech told me you need a transmission rebuild and it cost 3k CAD (more than i buy the car) cause when i buy it it was cold outside and it was the winter (i live in quebec) so the trans work fine i see nothing strange i push it , no prob, the engine perfect no leak dont eat any oil full of power no slush in valve cover after 6k km on this oil change it still look like new a little brown but not so much. cause my mech told me you have 2 choice: rebuild or wait it broke it can be taking from today to 2-3years or more but i dislike to have this prob and i want to repair it by myself, i have knowledge in mechanic but few equipement like pneumatic tools, wrench and few other stuff. so do you have an idea of what is the prob and how i can repair it easily, and you made great video :)
Sorry, I have not worked on a 4t45e. If the fluid level is full and the transmission is slipping you more than likely need a new/rebuilt or used transmission. You may want to look into a used one to keep the cost down.
m ph the 4T45 is close from the 4T65 just few gear ratio difference and the torque it can be aply on it, 4T45 is for max 4000 or 4500lbs car and 4T65 is for max 6000 or 6500 lbs car, and i see for for a rebuild one its cost more than rebuild, but i will made a video to show you cause today the transmission shift very fine no slipping at all than very strange. i made a lots of research and i think its the solenoid or servos but my mech "clean" them when change the filter and put new oil but he didt check the solenoid the bolt still have the antirust on then and look never removed
How similar is this repair for the Volvo XC90's that use the T6 engine and this transmission? A lot of XC90's use this 4 speed transmission and they are constantly failing.
At its North American launch for the 2003 model year, the XC90 was presented with a choice of two trim levels, the 2.5 T and the T6. The 2.5 T was the entry level version and offered a 2.5-litre B5254T2 "T5" turbocharged inline-five engine, producing 208 hp (155 kW) and 236 lb⋅ft (320 N⋅m) mated to an Aisin co-developed five-speed AW55-50/51 automatic. The T6 offered a 2.9-litre B6294T twin-turbocharged inline-six with 268 hp (200 kW) and 280 lb⋅ft (380 N⋅m) mated to a GM-sourced, Volvo-modified four-speed 4T65EV/GT automatic. While the 2.5T came standard with front-wheel drive, a Haldex Traction all-wheel drive (AWD) system was optional. The T6 was offered only with the AWD system.
JSCskittlez never worked on a Volvo Gm trans so I have no idea of the differences
It's easier to tap the overtightened right side bolts with a hammer to loosen them up....great job tho!
Depends on how good of a mechanic you are. I have all the videos posted for you to do the job. You will need minimum parts of 4th clutch hub, channel plate gaskets, filter, 12 qts fluid, side cover gasket (if yours is damaged), PCS/shift solenoids (highly recommended), and possibly even 4th clutch plates/steels if worn.
Question. Can the turbine shaft with the drive sprockets be removed if transmission is still connected to engine? I'm doing a partial rebuild to correct the P1811 code and I'm doing all of this on the drivers side fender well area. Also can the drive sprocket housing clearance be checked for tolerances "prior" to removal from case? I mean would it work like that? And then having the selective washers on order prior to installation? Or after overhaul will the tolerance for the clearance change?
+m ph Great videos!! I would have never attempted this repair without your videos! One question. At 9:27 in this video you remove a plastic spacer or washer that you said is very easy to break. Mine cracked a little. Should I replace it, and if so do you know what it is called so I can order a new one?
I would replace it if cracked.
24216631 gm part #
Lubrication Dam - oil hardened and frail , they crack VERY easily . A new one is translucent - opaque white.
Do you have part number for that input piston ?
I forgot to ask you my impala is 07 3.5 .. does those part numbers work with mine.. I seen somewhere where up to 06 was different
hi there. great videos. thank you . question I have a 07 grand prix. with a faliure. forward band snapped. what would be the easiest fix for a diy guy. replace the band with the transmission still in the car or replace the whole transmission? which would be just a salvage unit. I like the idea of keeping my current unit since I know the history. any advise would be greatly appreciated.
junk yard trans would be easiest
How do you put the check valve balls back in with the transmission sideways like that?
zaherr kamal
Trans assembly grease or petroleum jelly holds them in
so is that the problem I can be having cuz none of my gears will pull it only pull when it cold but when the car warm up it won't move anywhere
My Pontiac Montana I believe has this same trans. I'm getting a P0742 code after a few hard shifts. I shut the van off for a few minutes and start it up again, and the hard shifts seem to be gone for a time. Is this an issue with the Solenoid, or is it possible it just needs a trans oil and filter change? What would be the prognosis? I don't have a lot of money, and want to get it back to good shape with as little green as possible. Let me know, thank you in advance for any advice.
Matt Wagner 8
I have a 4t65e in a 2003 buick rendezvous. Can this transmission be completely rebuilt left in the car???? Is it difficult to reassemble upright like in your video? I have rebuilt many non-transaxle trans but never tried one like this. My transmission will go into gear forward and reverse. Shifts sluggishly, but after heats up will not go into gear. Like neutral all the sudden. When it cools back down it will go again. Reminds me of bad seals - when the oil gets hot is thins out and the seals won't hold pressure. Does this transmission have the clutch packs and seals as many other non transaxle transmissions (like a 4L60E)? Had a lot of metal in pan and also some small needle bearings.
In the car you can do a repair, not a complete rebuild. Since you have alot of metal in the pan I would pull the trans and do a complete rebuild with a torque converter replacement.
m ph I may take the chance and leave it in car. To access trans cover did you just drop sub-frame while supporting engine and trans with a jack? Also, besides removing hub and suspension was the steering shaft the only thing you had to disconnect?
Steve Chancey
Yes, the subframe unbolts from the Drivers side, loosen the passenger side cradle bolts half way. D/c the steering shaft. As mentioned I like to d/c the throttle/cruse cable and move the master brake cylinder out of the way. Hold the engine/trans up with a jack either under the oil pan or trans pan.
Its fairly tough getting everything back together out the side. I make it look easy in these videos since I have done 30+ this way. In all honesty if you have needle bearings/metal in the pan you are wasting your time by not pulling it and doing a full rebuild.
Thank you. I will remove and rebuild.
4t65e would this be the type of trans in a 2007 impala 3.5 flex fuel or any other cars that I can get the same trans from ?
Jsai K Its the same type of trans, not sure on compatability though. Check out Car-part.com for salvage yards in your area. They have a compatability search tool
when I was putting the transmission back together I accidentally broke the top left bolt. Do you think It would be fine if I just put it back in the car as is ?
TheBeast It was the bolt that was over torqued on your transmission
If it were my project I would extract the broken bolt and install a new one (easier said than done I know). I say this because a leak in the channel plate passages could cause misc. issues related to internal fluid leakage.
Car don't move on drive only manually and reverse, changed a soliniod and does the same.....can it be a band?
Drop it down in 1 on the gear shifter. If it moves when you rev it up the forward band is broken. In addition if you had the pan down you would see a large chunk of metal sitting in there if the forward band broke.
@@mph5896 ok thank you
how about a 2007 ss model. wont go in reverse. you can feel it go in but it wont move
i have the same issue.....someone please help. i also want to know if a v6 3.5 car's tranny work properly in a v6 3.9 malibu....
I would actually NOT recommend doing a rebuild in the car. The best way of doing them is to pull them out, clean everything, replace the TC and go through everything. What I do is repairs in the car, fix whats broke in an attempt to get the car back on the road in 3-4 hours for minimal cost.
Okay. I ask because I have a p1811 code and probably need a new PCS. My car has 170k, so I want to just do a rebuild, but in the mean time I want faster and smoother shifts. I want to install a shift kit instead and hold off on the PCS until rebuild time (early 2014). And the transgo kit is so easy to put in, its making me ask myself why not put it in. If it fixes the shifting, then I dont see why not. same price probably but way easier to do. Do you agree?
James Block
You could try the transgo kit and a filter. Dump in a bottle of lubeguard red and reset the pcm by disconnecting the battery.
I have a 2004 chevy Impala that I will be tearing into soon, but before I do I would like to have readily available information regarding the torque specs for the various bolts that will have to be removed. Where can I find this information? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! And props on the super job of these vids, very helpful!!! Thanks from Canada!!!
ATSG manual for 4t65e
Question. Can the turbine shaft with the drive sprockets be removed at this point to install a new turbine shaft o-ring? Also can the drive sprocket housing clearance be checked for tolerances "prior" to removal? I mean would it work to that? And then having the selective washers on order prior to installation? Or after overhaul will the tolerance for the clearance change? Also is it important for the "master" blue link on the chain to be put back on in the same location during Installtion? Lots of questions, sorry, i just want to make sure I don't destroy this transmission as I've never rebuilt on before.
GUYS WHEN YOU TAKE THESE BOLTS OUT USE YOUR BEST 6 POINT SOCKET
I found a 3/8" 6 point on an impact driver is the way to go. No issues since doing it this way.
You wouldn't have part number for that input piston would you
HI, i low forward clutch band, put it all back together and it pulls really good in drive but wont up shift. Not even manually, what do you think i could have done. also i changed all the sensors pcs, both shift, and tcc
It could be just about anything since you took it apart then put it back together. If its stuck in 2nd gear and won't upshift/downshift check and see if all the electrical components are working and plugged in.
If everything works in the transmission except for gear 3 and drive. Would that mean gear 4 wheel hub is worn out or torque converter?
So no third gear and no 4th gear when put into drive? If so your 2-3 clutches could be smoked
My car only drove in reverse gear 1 and gear 2. DRIVE GEAR was shot and gear 3 shot. But thanks for the reply brah.
I wanted to fix it myself.
I was wondering if.ur tutorial should how to fix it
Jay Fountains Check out all the PCS videos, those will get the side cover off with the trans in the car. Then check out the Disassembly/reassembly in car video's. Then on top of that you will still need to Rebuild the clutch packs (no videos yet of this). This really is not a DIY job, you need a complete trans rebuild or a used transmission installed. Sorry.
What's the black plastic piece called I broke mine @9:30
I have a 2006 Grand Prix w/ 4T65e trans (~200K miles). Trying to remove the manual shift shaft assembly (w/internal mode sensor). The "nail head pin" snapped off while trying to remove. now I can't remove shaft. Any idea how to proceed? Any help is appreciated.
Try using vice grips and prying against the case. Those things are SUPER hard to replace with the trans together.
+m ph there's nothing to grab. clean snap. Is the pin the only thing holding it shaft in place? Can I drill it out?
You will have to drill it or weld onto the pin to extract it.
Are the3re separate bands for 1-2 & 3-4? I can move in 3-4 upshifting via scan tool, but not 1-2. Reverse works natively.
Instablaster
I tighten the bolts a little bit and went back and two of them stripped out is it ok to use a little heat and bolt extractor
Should be ok, dont overheat the aluminum cover though
I have a 2000 gtp and i had no movement in drive and 3. but it would move in 2 and 1 and reverse, but i had to manually shift from 1 up to drive. thought it was the forward band but it was good. any ideas what this could be. thanks
Every time I see those symptoms the forward band end is broken off on it. Does the forward band look burned? There is a piston with a lip seal that turns it on, there could be an issue with that or even an issue in the valve body
are you talking about the forward servo piston?
yes
I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix gtp an when you first start it it drives fine in all gears then after a minute of driving if that it acts like its in neutral in all gears now if i turn the car off for 20 seconds in goes roght back into gear never slipped or anything before help please?
It also reads code for the tcc solenoid
Is it possible to replace forward 1-2 band by removing tail shaft cover of transmission
+Boss Dollar No
Why you didn’t show broke band
Would be nice if we could actually see anything.
Is it possible to access the forward band through the bottom pan?
Alex Martinez no
I have a 2005 chevy impala and it said I need to change the transmission control solenoid is that hard and can it be done in the car
Is it hard, I dont feel that it is, BUT I have done many of these. Guess it depends on your mechanical abilities. Check out my videos, I have the entire PCS solenoid replacement I documented
i have a gtp with a problem with slipping if i put it in 1st it will not do it but if any other it slips idk if its the valve body or????
Could be a few things, without knowing more about it it sounds like a busted forward band. This requires complete disassembly of the transmission.
It drives fine if I manual shift.
No matter what snap-on ratchets. I buy anything else from harbor freight.
How can I tell if forward band is broken when out of car.. it don't look physically broken to me .. won't go into no forward gear is the problem
You pulled the forward band out of the trans? A piece of the band breaks off and drops in the pan. About a 2"x2" piece. If you don't want to drop the pan, the band has 2 points it mounts. One is a lug it sits in, the other part is where a rod pushes on it. The part where the rod pushes on it breaks off.
@@mph5896 yes I have it out of the car... I dont see no pieces broken off nowhere on it..
@@johnpugh1142 It might not be broken then.
Input piston or seals for that could be the issue
@@mph5896 ok I'll try that .. I'm looking for input piston now lol
@@mph5896 is there anyway you could show me a picture of this input piston an seals .. I don't know what I'm looking for lol.. thanks
Is that possible I have the same same 4T65 in my xc90 2004 T6 ??
I have never worked on a 4t65E in a Volvo so i am unsure of the differences in them.
And I'm just sitting here like, where are the gears at.
The chain and sprockets determine the gears
@Brian Crawford correct. I was wrong, that was quite some time ago before i knew more about transmissions and stuff. Thanks!
This is a 03 impala right?
If so where do the shift solenoids go?
Third AND direct?
my pontiac bonneville no move so 2da ,open carter part of band
What Dewalt driver are you using?
Sorry, missed your message. I use the 18v setup with 1/2". DEWALT Bare-Tool DC820B
Just finished this job in a van omg what a pain in the ass never again.
Ha. Yeah, they are not fun. I got so good at doing these this way, I was in and out in a couple hours. First one was an absolute 🥴. I haven’t touched one in a few years though. All those cars in the rust belt are pretty much gone.
@@mph5896 Was my first one took me 2 days to get it done of course it was a free helping mom out job.
@@keysautorepair6038 did you get it done the first time. I just did a 6f35 first time. Full rebuild. I get to jerk it back out since it flares on 1-2 shift🥴. Transmission work is not for the faint of heart
@@mph5896 Yes sure did it works pretty good I build drag racing transmissions daily don't care for stock rebuilds.
Parts cost If you bought everything off Amazon should run you under $200.
I don't understand the need to seperate the valve body assembly? anyone?
Seperator plate should be checked for wear around the check balls, pump drive makes it more complicated to get in while keeping 4th clutches in place. You could if you were very careful, just trickier.
@@mph5896 ok Thank You!
what about a 2009 impala
What about a 2009? Its the same setup.
Damn they put those in way too tight
f...that..I'll stick to doing BRAKE jobs, ty for video though......DAMN!! WAY to much for an ADD person!! lol
They are over torqued because you overtorqued them
+Keith DuBeau Feel free to make a video and show me how its done. I went to watch your produced videos and there are NONE.
😂