Thank you!!! Our Bluestar oven went on the fritz about a year ago. We had to beg and plead for a service technician to come and look at it (now knowing how easy the process actually is....), and were without an oven for over three weeks. They charged us almost $400 (Canadian) to fix it stating that it was a "specialty oven", so required additional expertise..... I wish I had come across your video beforehand. Thankfully, when the igniter died again less than a year later, I found your video, ordered the Frigidaire/Electrolux part from Amazon, and we were up and running within three days, for a total cost of CDN $40. PHENOMENAL. Thank you, thank you, thank you. So appreciate you taking the time and effort to share your knowledge!
That was great! The most satisfying part was removing the door. I had to drill out a few corroded screws to get the lower cover off, but once I got them out everything went great. My burner tube had some damage near the igniter, but it still worked. Maybe the damage is making it too hot near the igniter and it won’t last. Time will tell. I could be back looking for burner tube replacement instructions. I used a Robertshaw 41-204 igniter. The one it replaced was marked COORSTEK Model 501A 1504.
AWESOME!! Thank you so much! I live in the middle of nowhere, no appliance repair within 2 hours, nearest Bluestar dealer 2.5 hours away. I have been panic-ridden for the last week, unsure if I would be able to do the repair myself. SO EASY! Should be getting the part I need today, (ordered 2, since the original only lasted 3 1/2 years) and am now confident I can do the repair after finding your video. KUDO'S!!
Thank You!!! Just replaced BOTH igniters in my 48”, both went out the same day! $40 on Amazon and this video and I’m back in business, so good. Really appreciate this video. Sure, the newer 48 is a bit different (extra housing to remove, heat shield sock to re-zip-tie, small oven igniter clamps to preserve/wire) but this video gave me the confidence to tackle it and I’m so glad I did: where we live we can not get a certified repair person (out in the sticks), so this was huge for us. Many thanks!!!!
Thanks for posting! Seems like our Blue Star Oven igniter burns out about ever 12-18 months. This helps us save on a $200 repair bill, not mention a week down time waiting for a Blue Repair Tech.
Nice video. Very helpful. You might've shown putting the door back on to show that you have to insert both notches (I know there's only one way for it to go on, but...) and reclip that little clip the holds the door/hinge on. It's a small thing. I'm glad you showed the generic igniter box with the part number on it. My oven is back because of you! Thank you!
I'll add that upon putting the door back in the notches, you have to OPEN it (not close it as you may think) 90* in able to swing the little clips back. I had to hold the door's front and back side together to give it a bit more support while doing this which helped.
Thank you so much for posting these videos. We have the Bluestar RNB 30 and with these tutorials, we easily replaced the oven igniter. We continue to experience a delay of around 30 seconds from the time the igniter is powered and the ignition of the flame tube. As a result, we see temperature swings of 35 - 40 degrees from the set temp. Can something be done to tighten this range up? Thanks again.
Thanks Rob, That 30 second delay is normal. Can you send that same question to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com I think there may be a calibration setting on the back of the oven knob👍
Thanks for the great video, this helped me quite a bit (I sent some appreciation via paypal). When I removed the bottom pan, the angled metal enclosure attached to it (what would be directly above the flame) was only attached on one side. All of the rivets on one side had come off. I was able to get one screw in to give some support, but wonder if you have run into this before on these ovens.
I have a newer version of this stove. Some things are a bit different: There is a anti flammable sock on the igniter wires that fits through a different metal housing that is a bit difficult to work with. Additionally, there are direct connecting clips that need to be cut off in order to connect the new igniter. The igniter itself is a bit different too. For example, the one in my stove has an isolating block that is 1/4” longer, but everything else is the same. Hole are the same and the element and housing too. I did have issues with the flame defuser plate that was riveted to the cover. I’m assuming, but it would seem the rivets holding it together weakened from heat and sheered when I removed the cover. It made for a lot of work. I had to drill out the old rivets and find screws and bolts that would put it all together again. Anyways, at least everything is back together and working like new again. Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks for these videos. I have a two-yr old BlueStar range but the oven igniter wires are not getting any power. The broiler is working fine however. I've checked the thermovalve terminals for continuity and there aren't any shorts on the oven igniter wires. Not sure what is wrong. Any ideas?
Great video ... I have the same unit and my oven will not turn on so I suspect it's the same problem. One question, in this scenario would the broiler work and not the oven? In my case both the broiler and the oven will not light so I was wondering if I'm chasing down the wrong problem by replacing the ignitor as you've done in this video. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx
I have older Garland RCS--Bluestar bought them out, Basically same range. It is very hard to find support or diagrams for range. My glow light comes on fairly bright but gas is not turning on. Not sure of next steps to diagnose or where safety valve or thermapile is located. Any tips appreciated!
@@QuickAndEasy5MinuteAppliance Thanks! Have ordered, will report back. I am curious, though. Where is the safety valve? There's no sign of it near burner, or at gas connection in front of oven. I'm also "looking" for IR orifice location. Previous owner had converted unit to propane. I have part to convert IR back to natural gas -- but don't know where to find where to replace orifice. Thanks for your quick reply!
I think this is the safety valve: www.webstaurantstore.com/garland-us-range-ck1027001-auto-safety-valve-1-2-npt-kit/HPCK1027001.html?Google&GoogleShopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvo_qBRDQARIsAE-bsH-SahijRFGa6sEbaGV9AEUQV3OQjJSF4kvYmONA3q6t6bSMBFcRcsMaAoopEALw_wcB
@@QuickAndEasy5MinuteAppliance So good news is that you were right -- a new oven igniter solved the problem...for a while. Today igniter will not glow when oven valve turned on. Checked with multi-meter and 0 voltage at igniter. Thoughts? Does spark module have anything to do with function of oven circuit? Flummoxed.
I have exact same problem: following your video and one from Bluestar on Vimeo, replaced the mechanical thermostat (due to broken knob shaft) with the new digital, but now coil is red-hot but no gas will flow in the oven. So broiler works, but the oven bake doesn't. Is it igniter or the safety valve? Its costly now :(
I have a bluestar Platinum Series and the broiler will not light ( the igniter glows bright)?. Also does anyone remember what the warranty period On the BlueStar is.
7 day limited warranty, 1 year limited warranty, and then 10 year limited warranty to the original retail purchaser if the installation checklist was mailed/faxed in within 15 days of purchase/delivery. Doesn't include igniters, porcelain, gaskets, discoloration, or adjustment.
They’d be a lot nicer if they worked. Like use decent igniters and what’s with not using stainless screws?!? They rust and snap off making it a major repair to replace the igniters. Poorly designed for the price.
You’re wonderful! Just repaired my Blue Star oven!
Great job! Thanks 😊
Thank you!!! Our Bluestar oven went on the fritz about a year ago. We had to beg and plead for a service technician to come and look at it (now knowing how easy the process actually is....), and were without an oven for over three weeks. They charged us almost $400 (Canadian) to fix it stating that it was a "specialty oven", so required additional expertise..... I wish I had come across your video beforehand. Thankfully, when the igniter died again less than a year later, I found your video, ordered the Frigidaire/Electrolux part from Amazon, and we were up and running within three days, for a total cost of CDN $40. PHENOMENAL.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. So appreciate you taking the time and effort to share your knowledge!
You are very welcome 😊😊😊 What a Great Success Story😊
That was great! The most satisfying part was removing the door. I had to drill out a few corroded screws to get the lower cover off, but once I got them out everything went great. My burner tube had some damage near the igniter, but it still worked. Maybe the damage is making it too hot near the igniter and it won’t last. Time will tell. I could be back looking for burner tube replacement instructions. I used a Robertshaw 41-204 igniter. The one it replaced was marked COORSTEK Model 501A 1504.
Yep, I’ve seen those burner tubes get a hole right near the igniter.
It would be good to replace that burner tube👍
Any videos on replacing the tube ?
AWESOME!! Thank you so much! I live in the middle of nowhere, no appliance repair within 2 hours, nearest Bluestar dealer 2.5 hours away. I have been panic-ridden for the last week, unsure if I would be able to do the repair myself. SO EASY! Should be getting the part I need today, (ordered 2, since the original only lasted 3 1/2 years) and am now confident I can do the repair after finding your video. KUDO'S!!
That’s what I love to hear 👍😊
GOT 'ER DONE! Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. I've never had a repair go so flawlessly. Maybe I can start changing my own oil now.😅
Thank You!!! Just replaced BOTH igniters in my 48”, both went out the same day! $40 on Amazon and this video and I’m back in business, so good. Really appreciate this video. Sure, the newer 48 is a bit different (extra housing to remove, heat shield sock to re-zip-tie, small oven igniter clamps to preserve/wire) but this video gave me the confidence to tackle it and I’m so glad I did: where we live we can not get a certified repair person (out in the sticks), so this was huge for us. Many thanks!!!!
That is awesome😊
Thank you
Thanks for posting! Seems like our Blue Star Oven igniter burns out about ever 12-18 months. This helps us save on a $200 repair bill, not mention a week down time waiting for a Blue Repair Tech.
Nice video. Very helpful. You might've shown putting the door back on to show that you have to insert both notches (I know there's only one way for it to go on, but...) and reclip that little clip the holds the door/hinge on. It's a small thing. I'm glad you showed the generic igniter box with the part number on it. My oven is back because of you! Thank you!
I'll add that upon putting the door back in the notches, you have to OPEN it (not close it as you may think) 90* in able to swing the little clips back. I had to hold the door's front and back side together to give it a bit more support while doing this which helped.
Great thing about these ranges is that generally when things break any reasonably handy person can fix them.
Thanks for posting this! The link to the igniter is now unavailable. Is there another igniter that you can recommend?
Replacement Flat Oven Ignitor Replaces: 5303935066, 814269, WB2X9998, WB13K21
Thanks for posting these videos, watching you do this takes most of the guesswork out of doing this.
Awesome,
Thanks Gary👍
Thank you so much...Just fixed my Bluestar...Hope you are well and busy...!!!
Thanks so much😊😊😊
Thank you so much for posting these videos. We have the Bluestar RNB 30 and with these tutorials, we easily replaced the oven igniter. We continue to experience a delay of around 30 seconds from the time the igniter is powered and the ignition of the flame tube. As a result, we see temperature swings of 35 - 40 degrees from the set temp. Can something be done to tighten this range up?
Thanks again.
Thanks Rob,
That 30 second delay is normal.
Can you send that same question to my email at: scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com
I think there may be a calibration setting on the back of the oven knob👍
Thanks, Scott. Sent
Thanks for the great video, this helped me quite a bit (I sent some appreciation via paypal). When I removed the bottom pan, the angled metal enclosure attached to it (what would be directly above the flame) was only attached on one side. All of the rivets on one side had come off. I was able to get one screw in to give some support, but wonder if you have run into this before on these ovens.
Simple fix. It’s why I went with a blue star. Pretty basic with no electronics to break. It’s really the only issue I’ve seen is the igniter.
Nice job Louise😊
I have a newer version of this stove. Some things are a bit different: There is a anti flammable sock on the igniter wires that fits through a different metal housing that is a bit difficult to work with. Additionally, there are direct connecting clips that need to be cut off in order to connect the new igniter. The igniter itself is a bit different too. For example, the one in my stove has an isolating block that is 1/4” longer, but everything else is the same. Hole are the same and the element and housing too.
I did have issues with the flame defuser plate that was riveted to the cover. I’m assuming, but it would seem the rivets holding it together weakened from heat and sheered when I removed the cover. It made for a lot of work. I had to drill out the old rivets and find screws and bolts that would put it all together again.
Anyways, at least everything is back together and working like new again.
Thanks for the informative video!
Great work,
Thank you
did you use the oem ignitor or the one in the video.?
What is the part number of the replacement part?
Thanks for these videos. I have a two-yr old BlueStar range but the oven igniter wires are not getting any power. The broiler is working fine however. I've checked the thermovalve terminals for continuity and there aren't any shorts on the oven igniter wires. Not sure what is wrong. Any ideas?
I wonder if it’s time for a new thermostat?
The amazon link brings up a frigidaire part....is that correct? I have bluestar
Great question. That igniter will work for yours👍
If the igniter glows but still doesn't start the burners, would you still replace the igniter?
Yes👍
Thank you thank you thank you! Your expertise is very much appreciated.
You’re very welcome😊
Super video! I applauded for $10.00 👏👏👏
Thanks so much Ram😊😊😊😊
THANKS, KNOW HOW TO FIX THE BROKEN/LOOSE KNOBS SHAFT????
Great video ... I have the same unit and my oven will not turn on so I suspect it's the same problem. One question, in this scenario would the broiler work and not the oven? In my case both the broiler and the oven will not light so I was wondering if I'm chasing down the wrong problem by replacing the ignitor as you've done in this video. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx
Thanks Scott,
Do you see either of them glow when you turn them on?
I have older Garland RCS--Bluestar bought them out, Basically same range. It is very hard to find support or diagrams for range. My glow light comes on fairly bright but gas is not turning on. Not sure of next steps to diagnose or where safety valve or thermapile is located. Any tips appreciated!
It’s the igniter. Even though it glows the resistance level isn’t right to allow the safety valve to open .
Just needs a new igniter .
@@QuickAndEasy5MinuteAppliance Thanks! Have ordered, will report back. I am curious, though. Where is the safety valve? There's no sign of it near burner, or at gas connection in front of oven. I'm also "looking" for IR orifice location. Previous owner had converted unit to propane. I have part to convert IR back to natural gas -- but don't know where to find where to replace orifice. Thanks for your quick reply!
I think this is the safety valve:
www.webstaurantstore.com/garland-us-range-ck1027001-auto-safety-valve-1-2-npt-kit/HPCK1027001.html?Google&GoogleShopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvo_qBRDQARIsAE-bsH-SahijRFGa6sEbaGV9AEUQV3OQjJSF4kvYmONA3q6t6bSMBFcRcsMaAoopEALw_wcB
@@QuickAndEasy5MinuteAppliance So good news is that you were right -- a new oven igniter solved the problem...for a while. Today igniter will not glow when oven valve turned on. Checked with multi-meter and 0 voltage at igniter. Thoughts? Does spark module have anything to do with function of oven circuit? Flummoxed.
I have exact same problem: following your video and one from Bluestar on Vimeo, replaced the mechanical thermostat (due to broken knob shaft) with the new digital, but now coil is red-hot but no gas will flow in the oven. So broiler works, but the oven bake doesn't. Is it igniter or the safety valve? Its costly now :(
My Bluestar oven turns itself off . It ignites initially and works for a while then stops. Is that an ignitor problem ?
Thanks Martha,
That could be the igniter.
Does it reach the desired temperature?
You just saved me $150 labor charge.
Awesome👍
Thank you very much! sent you an applause!
I have a bluestar Platinum Series and the broiler will not light ( the igniter glows bright)?. Also does anyone remember what the warranty period On the BlueStar is.
If the bake works then we know it has gas.
Even though it glows bright, I would replace it.
7 day limited warranty, 1 year limited warranty, and then 10 year limited warranty to the original retail purchaser if the installation checklist was mailed/faxed in within 15 days of purchase/delivery. Doesn't include igniters, porcelain, gaskets, discoloration, or adjustment.
They’d be a lot nicer if they worked. Like use decent igniters and what’s with not using stainless screws?!? They rust and snap off making it a major repair to replace the igniters. Poorly designed for the price.
What is the part number of the replacement part?