Oven Heating Slowly or Not Heating At All? E-Z FIX!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- If your oven won’t prewarm as quickly as it used to, or the oven won’t heat up at all, the likely culprit is the ignitor. We’ll show you basic troubleshooting to see what the problem is and how to do this repair yourself!
#appliancerepair #ovenrepair #stoverepair
Our stove has served us well for over 20 years. Recently, it took longer and longer for the oven to reach temperature, and then one day, it simply wouldn’t work at all.
A technician told us it was likely the ignitor, and that parts and labor would cost around $425! We decided to see if we could do it ourselves. We’re glad we did! The part was under $100 from our friends at www.ereplacementparts.com.
Our stove is a Maytag brand, but we found that the ignitor for our unit fits MANY other brands and years of manufacture.
To ensure that our oven’s problem was indeed the igniter, we had to do a bit of process of elimination. First, was the stove/oven getting power? Yes - the display was active, and the light inside the oven could be turned off and on. Was there a problem with the power getting to the ignitor? Most ovens have two igniters and burner sets. One is under the floor of the main oven compartment, and the other is at the top and is used for broiling. We turned on the broiler, and shortly thereafter the igniter glowed, and the burner ignited.
By then, we had determined it was highly probable that the bottom igniter was faulty. After removing it after removing just a few fasteners, we could see that there was a burned-out spot in the igniter. That igniter was toast (pun intended)!
Using the procedure shown in this episode, we removed the igniter and replaced it with a new one. The problem was immediately solved.
Something that is important to know about the igniter is that it is more than just the ignition source for the gas that is being emitted from the burner tube. The igniter also controls the gas valve that supplies the burner tube. If there isn’t continuity through the igniter, and it doesn’t glow and create a current draw, the gas valve won’t open. This is to ensure that gas doesn’t flow into the oven cavity (and ultimately the living space) without being consumed by flame.
The particular part we ordered from www.ereplacementparts.com was #74007498 Gas Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount. The invoice had some other codes you may find to be helpful: SO-40146(3) SO-40222 SO-40566 SO-40597 Y.
Sure you can call a service tech, but it will cost you plenty, and this is a simple repair you can do yourself with just a few basic tools. You can do this!
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I've watched more than a few video's, different techniques...I'm semi retired HVAC, former instructor too, did appliances on the job as well and just like watching others, to see if they are good...You sir, are excellent...This is by far the best explanation and repair instruction on the Gas Range I've seen, and it being on what is considered a rare, top broiler, WP product and it;s take offs, KM and such is even more rare...Thanks for this and to the people watching, you are lucky, to be watching this one.
Vern, thanks for your kind comments. I'm glad to get this type of info out to assist people on taking on these types of repairs. Best Regards, DFJ
Oven went out 2nd day after installatiin...removed pans and it worked...went out again one week later...thank You for excellent video to try repairing.
@@DirtFarmerJayHello Sir can I please ask you a technical question?
Our oven died out on us last year on Thanksgiving, as I was putting the fully prepared bird in. It is still not fixed as of today. Almost one year! Sooo....guess who is going to be attempting to fix it? I figured if I can fix printers and computers, I should at least give this an attempt. But I wanted to watch at least a handful of videos to be able to have a good understanding and to pick up as many safety tips as possible.
Thank you for reviewing this video. So far, it is at the top of my list to come back to, really that before I go in and take care of it.
I even went and bought a Ninja as a temporary workaround, but last night, it took a half hour to bake cookies which should only take 11 minutes, so now I may have to look at that one too! I was hoping it was just a fluke.
Tysm for your video. After watching i figured out this was the issue. Because of your guidance I ordered a replacement igniter for $30 and was able to repair
Right on! Glad to hear it!
I am so happy to find this. The oven symptoms fit. I'll verify once I take a look at that igniter. Very well shot and explained for someone with ADHD. 🙏
Thanks so much for this helpful video. You gave me the confidence to fix my stove!
Thanks again, I did this for the first time in 2020 and just 3 years later had to replace it again but fixed it immediately. I'll probably always try this before I full out replace it
Some replacement glo bars are junk...Depends on where they are made...Mexico being far better than China...Made in U.S.A.?....Ain't gonna happen...Not with this government.
Glad you now have this skill and can tackle it readily when it's needed. Best, DFJ
Great easy to follow video. Because I'm not a cook, I didn't realize that you need to wait as much as a minute and a half before the system would allow gas to flow over the igniter. At first, when not seeing (or hearing) gas I thought I had misdiagnosed the problem and started looking in to the function of the gas solenoid. I was at this point i discovered I needed a little patience for system to fully ignite. Anyway, I just wanted throw that out there for any other DYIers who aren't familiar with the proper ignition function of their oven.
Thank you, good sir, Jay.
Thanks for watching and writing! Good insight you gave. Best, DFJ
Excellent job explaining the repair. I also really like the background music. You're an asset to TH-cam University.
Thank you very much!
You are a really good teacher. Thought provoking video. Very clear camera work. Educative content. Thank you.
Aw garsh....
Excellent instructions. No nonsense. Well done.
Thanks Jay, this addresses the exact issue I am having. The tip about unplugging from the lower panel is huge, another video states to clip it, and re-attach with wire nuts. Not a fan of that concept! Thanks again! Sign me as Brand New subscriber/fan
Thank you for your video sir. $23 later and my stove is fixed. Took 20 mins max.
also, i bought the part on amazon. Shipped next day delivery to my door.
Nice work!
Thank you very much. This might just save me thousand dollars. Question are all of those igniter is the same??
Thanks, you answered my question, what controls the release of "gas" @5:40... so this igniter has dual function! Thank you very much!
Glad to help.
Awesome video! Should I shut off the gas valve in the back before attempting to replace it? Just wanted to get a second opinion. Thanks!!
To be absolutely safe, yes. However, the gas body won't let the gas flow without the ignitor sending resistance to it as it consumes electricity heating the element. Faulty or broken ignitor - no resistance to gas body - no gas flow.
This is fantastic!!! What a great video. I am going to use this to troubleshoot my son's oven, which is exhibiting the same issues shown here.
How did it turn out?
Thank you very much for this informative video. I was able to fix my oven by following this video. The advice is spot on - and the oven is working great again. Many thanks!!!
Great to hear! Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
Great video. I think this part of my problem because for years the oven would take forever to preheat, but recently it will not heat at all. The concerning part is neither will the broiler, but i can see the igniter glowing. So gas isnt making it to the igniter.
Sounds like it. Likely the gas valve body is defective or the connection to it from the ignitor is compromised.
I have one that glows but doesn't ignite... Broiler works though ..
Very informative, keep it up good works
Great Great video!!!! you saved me 325.00 just in Labor..... Thank you!!!!
This is great to hear! Thanks for letting us know! Best, DFJ
Worked like a charm. Thank you so much!
Excellent video about to open my oven tomorrow it takes forever to heat recently.
Where you able to get this repair done? Let me know! Best, DFJ
I had the exact same problem. I also have the exact model as yourself but in white. Thank you for sharing. Sub'd.
Glad you were able to repair it! And, thanks for the sub! Best, DFJ
Should you shut off the gas and electricity while you replace the igniter?
You've been very helpful. Thank you so much!
Great video! Well done!
Interesting stuff. Always wondered the mechanics of a gas oven.
Glad you found it to be educational! Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Super helpful and great delivery!
Glad it was helpful!
What would make it heat slowly? There’s obviously ignition happening…mine is doing that. Taking forever and also not recuperating after opening the door to add food. Thanks
I suspect it is still the ignitor coil/loop. It is essentially a heat activated switch that turns on the main gas valve to supply the main burner array in the oven. If the ignitor is defective/burnt out, the valve never opens. This is a safety feature designed to not allow gas to flow into the oven if it not going to be ignited and burnt off properly. I'd put my money on the ignitor. Let me know how it turns out. best, DFJ
Can u just straighten the coil loop somewhat first?
Sorry I have E range, not gas. My oven turn on automayically. Do u think it is because the relay has rust out. And fused together?
I have a BOSCH oven and I’ve never had to do a repair on one. My oven is not warming and I went and purchased a new igniter. I know all ovens are different, but one video I saw they pulled the entire out and plugged in the igniter from back. Do you think I’d be able to disconnect and plug the igniter in the same way you did?
Another video I saw, someone just removed the igniter, spliced the wires and installed a new one. That seemed a little unsafe, but what do I know.
I'm not familiar with your oven, but I suspect that most manufacturers use similar approaches. You can visit ereplacementparts.com or partsselect.com and enter your brand and model number to see an "exploded" parts diagram. This will allow you to see how your unit goes together. I suspect that all the work can be done from the oven cavity.
I agree with you about the danger of splicing in a new one. These units are operating in a space with very high temperatures, AND have to deliver consistent voltage for everything to work correctly. Connections should be made using ONLY factory connectors.
Let me know how this turns out for you. You can write me at jay@dirtfarmerjay.com.
Thank you for the guidance! Does one need to rurn the gas off first?
Glad to be of help. Best practice is to turn off the gas first, but the way this works is that the main gas body/valve in the stove won't open unless it is getting a signal that flame is present through the thermocouple or the ignitor. They've already built the safety in. Does that help? Best, DFJ
I heard touching the black element with bare hands can damage the element on the igniter due to grease on the hands
Great video. Houston we have liftoff!
Wahooooo!
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome! Best, DFJ
I had this same problem about 9 months ago and replaced the igniter and then my problem was solved. The same thing happened again on Christmas (of course) and so I ordered another igniter. I replaced it, but the problem has not been resolved. It still won't heat up. Ugh. Any advice?
I suspect the safety valve is faulty. If the ignitor is new, is operational (it glows), then either the safety valve is faulty. It could be the control board is bad or a broken circuit. I know this is general info, but I hope it gets you going in the right direction. Best, DFJ
Yeah, my gas oven has a similar issue, but I am getting ignition, it just goes to warm and will not preheat to a higher temperature. When I open the oven does, I can see the light of the flames, and it is warm, but not hot
Wow, this unusual. When you are attempting to preheat the oven, can you hear the burner cycling on an off? Does it shut off repeatedly before the oven reaches temp? Does the same thing happen when you set the oven to broil? There are a few things I can think of. The temp control is faulty and is no longer "telling" the oven what temperature to come to. Or, the valve body is faulty and keeps turning off the flow of gas prematurely. It appears that the ignitor is working, or you wouldn't see flames. However, the ignitor may not be sending enough current to the valve body ongoing to keep the gas flowing. I hope this helps! Let me know how this turns out. Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay thanks. It might actually be that second issue you mentioned since when I give up and turn it off, I sometimes smell gas. This never made sense to me because if there is flame, all the gas should have burned up.
I noticed in your video, you neither unplugged it from the power outlet nor turned off the gas. Did you feel those steps were unnecessary? I am now confused?
No, we did neither. The gas body doesn't allow gas to flow, and the electrical connection would be energized only when the oven is turned on. If you wanted to take those steps, you certainly could. Best, DFJ
Question: dose that hot thing stay lit the entire time the oven is on, or only when it is heating?
It only is glowing to ignition temperature until the gas bar ignites and maintains heat. It is an ignitor, so it doesn't produce heat during the baking or broiling process. Best, DFJ
Clear and helpful. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Fantastic, what happens if it glows but the fire doesn't come
Likely there are micro-crack in the ignitor that are not allowing it to create the amount of resistance that the gas body needs to turn on the gas. It may be bad wiring, or the gas body is defective, but that isn't usually the case. Let me know how this turns out. Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay you were absolutely correct. Can't see what's wrong with the igniter but once I replaced it, everything is functioning correctly. Thank you so much!
@@Lorn058 Glad it worked out!
Good stuff and it works
Good to hear, thanks for writing. Best, DFJ
My oven is not heating and my ignitor is glowing. So i assume the ignitor is not the problem. Could it be the temperature sensor
I still suspect the ignitor. I can glow and have micro-cracks in it that lower the amount of electrical resistance so that the gas body doesn't open. It's possible its the gas valve, bad wiring, or the temp sensor, but the usual solution turns out to be the ignitor. Let me know how this turns out for you. Best, DFJ
If the oven IS preheating, but taking longer than it did in the past, the igniter is obviously igniting, right, but it could be damaged so not fully functional? (And the damage can cause the lengthy preheat?) How do we determine that it's not the temperature sensor (called the oven temp probe in my model) that's causing the problem? Thank you!
Thanks for writing. This is a matter of the process of elimination. Unfortunately, that can be costly when it comes to appliance components, simply because once you purchase them, they are generally not returnable, especially if they have been opened and/or installed. Having said that, I suspect that its not the igniter in your situation. However, you could do a visual inspection by removing the ignitor as we showed, and seeing if you see any breaks in the ignitor. If you do, replace it. If not, reinstall and look elsewhere. Remember, the ignitor is just that - the ignitor. It is not a significant heat source. It simply ignites the burner array after gas flows to the array because the ignitor signal to the gas valve. The gas valve will not open unless the right amount of current draw is occurring from a properly operating ignitor. This is to prevent gas from flowing without it being burned off as it should be. The temperature sensor or the valve body is the likely culprit. I would see if you can find an appliance repair parts supplier in your area and visit them. See if you can get a friendly expert to give you some advice and options on how to be test and approach this. Valve bodies are expensive (between $200 to $300), but aren't usually the problem. It's the temperature probe that is more likely. Here's a video I found that may be helpful to you: th-cam.com/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/w-d-xo.html. Let me know how this turns out for you! Best, DFJ
Both components can be tested individuality with a multimeter. Continuity, resistance and proper amp draw for the igniter to open the safety gas valve and keep it open and proper resistance to test the temperature probe for accurate temperature setting. You don't just have to replace parts by trial and error if you have and know how to use the meter and the acceptable parameters.
@@edwardkawecki8101 - thanks for these great insights. Best, DFJ
Thank you!
@@edwardkawecki8101
is the igniter still on during the oven on? thank you !
Sorry I missed this! The ignitor stays energized until the oven reaches the desired temp. However, the ignitor, because of it's position in relation to the flame of the burner array, stays an orange-yellow color. This "tells" the gas valve to continue supplying gas as it is being burned off. If the flame had gone out and the ignitor had cooled, you don't want gas to continue to flow. This is a safety feature. As the oven continues to cycle to maintain temperature, the ignitor turns on and off as well. Does that help? Best, DFJ
My igniter for broiler lights just fine and supplies gas (I can hear the gas valve supply sufficient flow) and heats up the broiler. But the BAKING igniter glows, lights the gas pipe for the OVEN. It just doesn't turn the gas flow up enough to heat up the oven from the baking positions....
It sounds like your model has dual ignitors - one for the oven, one for the broiler. Since the broiler one is used less often, it tends to last longer. The main oven one does the "heavy lifting", so it tends to wear out faster. However, it's possible that your control for temperature on the oven is defective. On the ovens I've seen, the burner array in the oven, when fully ignited, is simply turned on and off to reach temp or to maintain it. The flames don't go higher or lower, they simply come on and off as needed. I think its likely that it's the oven ignitor that is wearing out. I hope this helps. Best, DFJ
@DirtFarmerJay It does have dual ignitors. I went ahead and ordered an igniter for the oven and changed it yesterday. It's working fine. I had a 148 Ω of resistance before But it wasn't enough to open the regulator to supply gas. Now with the new one it works fine..👍
Thanks for your help and response..
@@boosted2.4_sky Glad to see you got this addressed. Best, DFJ
Do you fix propane ovens ?
I don't, but I'm curious. What is up with your propane oven?
As a former satellite technician, I know all too well how the lifespan of anything electrically driven is game of roulette. My question is, with units where all the connections are in back rather than underneath; how difficult is it to pull the gas bar? I just made like Ralphie’s dad in A Christmas Story and swore my way through pulling the old igniter off with a pair of needle nosed pliers on the Hex screws. knowing full well that to install the new one I’ll be pulling the gas/burner bar. In my defense it’s 10pm Friday night and I didn’t want to burn up too much of my Saturday. 😂 Thanks in advance and God Bless.
Thanks for writing! Did you already take this on? If so, how did it turn out? If not, here's my thoughts. The gas bar is usually pretty easy to remove and reinstall. It's lightweight, sits in its place with the help of a couple of tabs and slots, and a self-tapping screw or two. The connector for the ignitor can be difficult, as you've pointed out. Best, DFJ
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you, Sir.
You are very welcome. Were you able to make the repair? Best, DFJ
So my kenmore ignitor glows but I get no flame through the tube
For some reason, current resistance is not sufficient enough to open the gas valve body. The gas valve could be going out (not that usual), or there could be microcracks in the ignitor and it is getting ready to fail, or there is an open connection in the wiring to the ignitor or gas valve. That would be my guess. I hope this helps!
@DirtFarmerJay I ordered a new ignitor. I get gas to the top burners so I don't think it's gas related. Checked wiring and it seems good. Will install ignitor this weekend
My gas oven ignites just takes forever to heat sometimes other times it's ok
That sounds like the ignitor that is in the midst of failing. You can inspect the ignitor and see if there are micro-cracks forming in it. If so, get a replacement. Let me know how it turns out for you. Best, DFJ
reasons why it a gas oven would be heating slowly?
I can smell the gas, i can see the glow from the bottom, using a thermo gun, I can see the temperature raising but slowly. Any fix?
The igniter can glow but be out of spec and not light the burner, work intermittently, etc. A slight smell of gas, and/or a loud pop as some released gas finally combusts are consistent with a bad igniter.
@@JF-xq6fr right on the money. I just changed it and it works perfectly. TH-cam coming in clutch
I'm glad your were able to get this fixed thanks to @JF-xq6fr! You're gonna enjoy having an oven that will once again come up to temp speedily. Best, DFJ
@@JF-xq6frReplaced the (bottom) bake igniter and verified the igniter heated and propane valve opened BEFORE replacing the baffle and oven bottom.
Fired up the oven for 405° apple pie and STILL seemed to pre-heat slower than previous years. NEXT STEP for troubleshooting might be??
It took 10 minutes to go from ambient to 150° and another 10 minutes to go from 150° to 405° according to the inside thermometer.
@@katiebea9258 How does the flame pattern look, i.e. is the flame bars flame fully lit at full size? Any chance when the gas was turned off that it may still be partially closed?
thanks J
You bet!
Thank u
You're welcome.
My ovens igniter glows and I smell gas for a minute then I dont, I think the igniter not getting hot and shutting that valve off. Im going to try replaceing the ignitor. Bought this white westinghouse back in 1996 when I bought my house. I just want to try to extend the life of this oven till my refrigerator dies, refridgerator is a 1994 model whirlpool so I know what brand Im buying next.
I think you've correctly diagnosed the problem. If there is insufficient voltage draw from the ignitor back to the valve body, the gas shuts off to prevent a discharge of explosive gas. Best to you on getting the timing of your appliance replacements!
Replaced my hot surface igniter and it worked 2-3 times then nothing.....
Hmmm. Sounds like the valve or the connection may be bad. Double check all that. If everything is tight, then the gas valve body may need replacing. When you took out the old ignitor, could you see where it was broken or there were gaps in the coil?
@@DirtFarmerJay sorry don't recall.
Hi both of my igniters showing 3.0a but oven still not working i don't know what's the next step. 😢
Thanks for writing! You'll need to check the oven safety valve. The ignitors seem to be drawing the right range of power, so the next suspect is the gas valve. Unfortunately, these are fairly expensive, running from $100 to $200. When operating correctly, the valve opens and allows gas to flow to the ignitors/burners only when it senses that the ignitors are drawing enough power to be glowing and to properly ignite the gas. If the valve isn't opening even when there is enough power being supplied, a replacement may be in order. Do one other thing before you go pulling parts, though. Double check all your connections to assure current is flowing properly. One loose connection can foul everything up. Let me know how this goes for you. Best Regards, DFJ
I have the same stove and it’s seriously irritating me.
I feel your pain. Best, DFJ
Did he turn off the gas valve 🤔🤔🤔
I did not. You can if you'd like, but there is a diversity of opinion on this. The way the oven is set up is that gas cannot flow through the valve body unless the it gets a signal that either enough electrical resistance has come back from the ignitor - indicating that ignition temperature has been reached. If not, gas will not flow. If you want to shut off the valve before it comes into the stove/oven, by all means do it! Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay think you I was just checking. Before I replace mines
this oven is as old as myself! No good for fixing my 2 year old gas oven ffs.
Thanks for stopping by. The oven is 22 years old and still going strong. How old are you? Best, DFJ
🗣️ Boom! When do I unplug & turn off the gas?? I just blew my crib up messing with you
No, you didn't. That's one of the features of the system. The ignitor also acts like a thermocouple and won't allow the gas body to flow gas unless there is adequate conditions/temperature to ignite and burn the gas. If you want to shut off the gas then do so.
Not exactly what you promised in this video.
There is a difference between slow preheat and no preheat.
The ignitor only fixes one.
Thanks for the feed back. I experienced both during the failure of my oven's ignitor. At first, very slow heating, then finally, nothing. Best, DFJ
never fun when your oven turns into a eazybake. . .
Ain't that the truth! That bulb light doesn't throw of much heat... Best, DFJ
NEVER MENTIONED TO NOT TOUCH THE IGNITER COIL WHICH CAN DAMAGE IT AND/OR SHORTEN ITS LIFE. THE OILS FROM YOUR SKIN IS WHERE THE PROBLEM LIES. SO JUST WEAR SIMPLE PAIR OF MEDICAL GLOVES OR ANY KIND OF GLOVES.
Well said. I'll put that in the description right now. These are indeed sensitive, just like halogen bulbs.