Purchased 2 of these products for both vehicles of mine. Best decision I ever made. No more tools and messy hot oils dripping all over my underneath my engine panel. 😅
@@ericmartin2470 On most vehicles (at least the ones I've owned) the drainage bolt is protected behind a bash plate so that wouldn't ever be an issue. But admittedly I typically drive in larger AWDs or 4WDs which typically always have bash plates protecting that area
@@procrastinator1727 the FWD cars i've owned had oil pans that were exposed on the undercarriage and the drain plug was protected only by a dimple on the oil pan. a device like this, with the added length, would expose the drain plug to debris and such. i would not feel comfortable knowing a fluke could damage this device, cause an oil leak and drain the oil. now if i had an oil drain that was not as exposed then sure, why not.
Yea man, looked at the reviews and there were a couple people that had their oil spill everywhere... Seems like a great idea but its just not as "low profile" as the original part, this Fumoto plug sticks out pretty far man... I dunno.
I see the new SX model in the website. It appears that the advantage of this model is that it turns? It looks like you have the older model. Any preference?
It depends on where it is located, whether the slight extra expense of the newer version is worthwhile. Otherwise, if being able to turn it isn't beneficial then you are just left with more pieces and seals to eventually fail. Fumoto will tell you the o-rings last forever but we know that o-rings do not last forever, particularly in contact with hot oil.
Thousands of dollars for an oil pan? What have you been smoking. They're about $50 at a junkyard. $80 if you get it delivered, plus gasket if yours isn't reusable. Bigger issue is the hassle of replacement or labor cost at a shop, particularly newer vehicles with things in the way.
Did the video state it was an S65 pan? If not, hardly worth mentioning outliers in price. However, what am I missing about the S65 pan price? I see them on ebay right now for $250 and up, used. Used pans that don't sell, because they're outrageously priced, shouldn't really count, should they? I can ask 1 million dollars for anything... @@Thomski69
You shouldn't have any shavings past break in motor time. If you want to be sure, stick a strong magnet to your oil filter and it will collect in there
@@rhdtv2002 the extra 5 minutes doesn’t feel like “forever”. Plus I have it drain straight to a jug. I’ll happily wait 5 minutes in exchange for easy cleanup and no tools used.
yes there is a reason. its called money. the inside of the valve is solid. if it fails it will be while you are turning it not randomly while driving. theyve had satisfied customers for 20 years.
OEMs don't use them for 3 reasons. 1) It is not a big deal for a shop to take an oil drain plug off, or a quick lube place, when they have a lift or a pit to get under it. Might even be a good thing to discourage the average owner from doing their own work. 2) Much more expensive. A bolt plug that costs them $1 is cheaper than a drain that costs $20 (in volume, best guess). As they say, if a part costs $1 more and there are 1,000 such parts on a vehicle * 1 million vehicles, they just lost a billion dollars. 3) This may have a very low chance of getting damaged from road debris but a bolt has even less chance, anything that would hit a bolt and damage it has probably already put a hole in the oil pan. Valve failure isn't likely unless you drive in a severely salty environment and in that case, they make a cap (or substitute your own) to fit over the nipple and you can load up the lever & spring mechanism side opening with silicone paste to ward off corrosion and keep road grime out.
I left when he said it cost thousands to replace the oil pan. No son... I get it you're trying to sell your product, but you're trying wayyy too hard. Its a cool product that nobody really needs, like most car mods, but quit pretending like its more important than it is
Not sure what kind of car you have but to remove and replace an oil pan with labor can be that expensive. Why do I know? Because it's happened to me. Most people don't have the mechanical knowledge to drop down and oil pan themselves. Also let me add this is NOT a promotional video lol. This is something I bought because I wanted a solution to these problems.
no son, a pan replacement with labor can easily go above $1000. he didnt say it was important. he said it was convenient. and id agree, its one of the most convenient mods for the weekend mechanic.
It's much easier to reach in with one hand and flip the lever than it is to wrench a plug. You don't have to crawl as far under the vehicle or get leverage. and you don't need as much room. Since you're not torquing, it's safer to be under the car. It's much cleaner; you can drain directly into a jug with no spillage (using nipple and tube) You can stop and start the drain to fill multiple jugs. You no longer have to worry about proper torque and you don't have to worry about having the copper or aluminum crush-washers on hand. Saves time and hassle and mess everytime I change the oil.
I've removed the valve on my car after an oil change to see how much is left, I measured maybe 10 ml most of that was oil still draining down. I've been using these since 97 no way it leaves 1.5 L unless you are not level, when they first came out they did stick maybe a few mm above the pan on the inside, the newer ones sit lower. Very little is left. However, since you can drain the oil when it's extremely hot (flipping the lever with a gloved hand) an not risk getting burned with oil using a tube to direct the flow. You can get more out quicker, being very hot (200°F+) in a shorter time.
Purchased 2 of these products for both vehicles of mine. Best decision I ever made. No more tools and messy hot oils dripping all over my underneath my engine panel. 😅
Yeap it is literally a game changer :)
I can finally get rid of the 13 dirty oily shirts I have always used for these oil changes!
seems like if you bottom-out the car the valve might get ripped off from the pan or worse.
@@ericmartin2470 On most vehicles (at least the ones I've owned) the drainage bolt is protected behind a bash plate so that wouldn't ever be an issue. But admittedly I typically drive in larger AWDs or 4WDs which typically always have bash plates protecting that area
@@procrastinator1727 the FWD cars i've owned had oil pans that were exposed on the undercarriage and the drain plug was protected only by a dimple on the oil pan. a device like this, with the added length, would expose the drain plug to debris and such. i would not feel comfortable knowing a fluke could damage this device, cause an oil leak and drain the oil. now if i had an oil drain that was not as exposed then sure, why not.
Installed one on my 2006 subie sti works great and saves time.
I like this very much for my 2013 Audi Q7 TDI. I will seriously consider buying this product. Thanks!
Especially if you are doing your own oil changes, this is a huge convenience
Canadian Rider I do, as it is $200+ at the Audi dealership. Many thanks for the heads up.
Typical dealer overcharging
Just a heads up you don't tighten by the nipple. But good video. I just bought myself a fumoto valve
This is awesome! Thanks for repping in Canada! 🍁
Except he shouldn't tighten from the nipple. He should only tighten from the body of the valve right?
Good to know, fellow Canadian
Thanks for the making the video. Personally, I'd rather use a magnetic drain plug.
Nice video except you suppose to tighten it from the body of the valve and NOT on the hex head.
You are very correct.If you tighten it with a socket you can damage the ball valve
Nice sweatshirt...Go Raptors. 🇨🇦👍
HE STAY!
i like the background sound/music, what is it?
Which shopping site can i get one that is 17 mm thread size ?
Yea man, looked at the reviews and there were a couple people that had their oil spill everywhere... Seems like a great idea but its just not as "low profile" as the original part, this Fumoto plug sticks out pretty far man... I dunno.
Haven't had a problem so far
I see the new SX model in the website. It appears that the advantage of this model is that it turns? It looks like you have the older model. Any preference?
The SX model turning is new definitely something additional that helps but not deal breaking. Get the newer one
It depends on where it is located, whether the slight extra expense of the newer version is worthwhile. Otherwise, if being able to turn it isn't beneficial then you are just left with more pieces and seals to eventually fail. Fumoto will tell you the o-rings last forever but we know that o-rings do not last forever, particularly in contact with hot oil.
I just use an oil extractor, and suck the oil out via the dipstick tube on my Camry V6. It's less messy than using that Fumoto engine oil drain valve.
Definitely another good way to do it is that but I wouldn't say the fumoto oil valve is messy at all to be honest with you.
Problem is if your oil filter is underneath the car, there's no avoiding getting under there.
Thousands of dollars for an oil pan? What have you been smoking. They're about $50 at a junkyard. $80 if you get it delivered, plus gasket if yours isn't reusable. Bigger issue is the hassle of replacement or labor cost at a shop, particularly newer vehicles with things in the way.
Yes that is exactly what I am saying, most people can't do this themselves and labor kills them
Clearly you haven’t seen the price of an S65 engine oil pan. At least $1K for a USED pan. For your 80s F150, yes, its $50 at the junk yard.
Did the video state it was an S65 pan? If not, hardly worth mentioning outliers in price. However, what am I missing about the S65 pan price? I see them on ebay right now for $250 and up, used. Used pans that don't sell, because they're outrageously priced, shouldn't really count, should they? I can ask 1 million dollars for anything... @@Thomski69
so convenient
What about the metal shavings that the oem plug collects.
You shouldn't have any shavings past break in motor time. If you want to be sure, stick a strong magnet to your oil filter and it will collect in there
If you have enough metal shavings to matter, it may not be worth the bother to drain and refill the oil as the engine isn't long for this world.
don't have to torque it???
What is the foot pounds tight spec on the fumoto??
Check the amazon link below it has the specs
Thank you for your fast response
15 ft-lbs
Damn, almost $50 CAD. Thought it would be cheaper. Lol
Definitely a premium, well worth it though for those who know the pain of DIY oil changes
You would pay this thing off in one year from cleanup time and materials saved alone.
Agreed saving the time and hassle worth the money
Thousands of dollars for a oil pan I don’t know where you live but jeez
Yes I paid $7,893 for an oil pan change
Holy shit for what car ?!
@@jorangel87 wtf lmao wtf are you driving
This guys clothes are too nice to be under a car. I wouldn't trust his advice on that alone. ;-)
😂 come on you can trust me!
Bruh use nitrile gloves
The only thing it takes forever to drain
I'd say it takes 25 percent longer. Not too big a deal
@@carswithsonduren seems longer and its not really a big deal but definitely noticeable..I've had one for like 4 years now
@@rhdtv2002 the extra 5 minutes doesn’t feel like “forever”. Plus I have it drain straight to a jug. I’ll happily wait 5 minutes in exchange for easy cleanup and no tools used.
Same thoughts here
There is a reason these are not used on an OEM level, valves fail a lot more often than plugs.
I’ve owned mine for the last 3 years and never had any problem.
yes there is a reason. its called money. the inside of the valve is solid. if it fails it will be while you are turning it not randomly while driving. theyve had satisfied customers for 20 years.
Had one on my Forrester for 7 years. No leaks, no damage, no accidental openings. Putting another on new outback next weekend.
OEMs don't use them for 3 reasons.
1) It is not a big deal for a shop to take an oil drain plug off, or a quick lube place, when they have a lift or a pit to get under it. Might even be a good thing to discourage the average owner from doing their own work.
2) Much more expensive. A bolt plug that costs them $1 is cheaper than a drain that costs $20 (in volume, best guess). As they say, if a part costs $1 more and there are 1,000 such parts on a vehicle * 1 million vehicles, they just lost a billion dollars.
3) This may have a very low chance of getting damaged from road debris but a bolt has even less chance, anything that would hit a bolt and damage it has probably already put a hole in the oil pan.
Valve failure isn't likely unless you drive in a severely salty environment and in that case, they make a cap (or substitute your own) to fit over the nipple and you can load up the lever & spring mechanism side opening with silicone paste to ward off corrosion and keep road grime out.
@@nathanhannah9664 Have them on two vehicles for 3 years now and never a issue. Makes the oil changes so much easier and cleaner.
Don’t tighten by the nipple!!!
7
I left when he said it cost thousands to replace the oil pan.
No son... I get it you're trying to sell your product, but you're trying wayyy too hard.
Its a cool product that nobody really needs, like most car mods, but quit pretending like its more important than it is
Not sure what kind of car you have but to remove and replace an oil pan with labor can be that expensive. Why do I know? Because it's happened to me. Most people don't have the mechanical knowledge to drop down and oil pan themselves. Also let me add this is NOT a promotional video lol. This is something I bought because I wanted a solution to these problems.
no son, a pan replacement with labor can easily go above $1000. he didnt say it was important. he said it was convenient. and id agree, its one of the most convenient mods for the weekend mechanic.
It's much easier to reach in with one hand and flip the lever than it is to wrench a plug. You don't have to crawl as far under the vehicle or get leverage. and you don't need as much room. Since you're not torquing, it's safer to be under the car. It's much cleaner; you can drain directly into a jug with no spillage (using nipple and tube) You can stop and start the drain to fill multiple jugs. You no longer have to worry about proper torque and you don't have to worry about having the copper or aluminum crush-washers on hand. Saves time and hassle and mess everytime I change the oil.
This thing is trash. leaves over 1.5 liters of old oil still in your pan
I've removed the valve on my car after an oil change to see how much is left, I measured maybe 10 ml most of that was oil still draining down. I've been using these since 97 no way it leaves 1.5 L unless you are not level, when they first came out they did stick maybe a few mm above the pan on the inside, the newer ones sit lower. Very little is left. However, since you can drain the oil when it's extremely hot (flipping the lever with a gloved hand) an not risk getting burned with oil using a tube to direct the flow. You can get more out quicker, being very hot (200°F+) in a shorter time.