Looks like a good solution. I have had Fumoto valves on my vehicles (most of them Jeeps) for many years. You can buy a Fumoto with a longer nipple on it so you don't need the little adapter to use a hose.
Main issue I see is the separate part needed to actually drain the oil, versus the self-contained Fumoto. If you misplace or lose the drain part for the Stahlbus valve, you can't drain the oil unless you completely uninstall the ball valve. In other words, a messy flood of oil which is why we use the high priced valves instead of the standard drain plug. I've been using Fumoto valves for decades and never had a problem with them. And the Fumoto is significantly less expensive (still a lot of money for a simple ball valve though). After watching the video, I see no reason to retire my Fumoto.
Exactly this, I will 100% misplace that adapter, or at the very least struggle to find it for a while at some point. Just one time having to look for the damn thing will offset any long term time savings and frustration over just using a regular plug. If you do a lot of off-roading or rock climbing I can understand going with the Stahlbus for the added durability, but for road use I much prefer the Fumoto for the added reliability when draining. Especially with the longer nipple version that you don't even need an adapter to attach a hose to. And the way I see it if the valve gets hit your oil pan is probably f***** anyway.
I put a Stahlbus on my Odyssey and I keep the drain tool and tube in a ziploc bag in the glove box so it's always with the car. You can store the tool with the drain end of the hose connected to the front of the tube to form a loop so that oil doesn't leak out. It's really not that big of a deal and I like the product. Will be buying another for our Chrysler minivan.
So of you lose the hose connector, you can't drain the oil. That's why I'd prefer fumoto as no extra stuff is needed. For skid plates, this does look like a great product.
That is the first thing I thought. If I lose it I’m screwed. Also USA made Fumoto vs. German made Stahlbus. Both are quality products but I’ll stick with the Fumoto.
Have one on my truck and its been great. 7 qts of oil take maybe 4 mins to empty no big deal. The cover cap stays on no problem even with vibrations of a diesel. No need to clean the inside of the tube, thats exit only. Keep the drain kit with my funnels so no problem of losing them.
good to hear, that's the other thing...the Fumoto generally take around 20~25 mins I've heard to drain 6.5 quarts. Sounds like the Stahlbus is a lot faster to drain...
In my case on my Subaru, the Fumoto did not really need a hose, but I could imagine low clearance situations where the Stahlbus is preferable. That Fumoto plastic adapter split on day one, so I gave up on the hose.
Ive had the fumoto on my vw for the last 4 years without fail. I am going to try this stahlbus to compare the two Also use a PELA 6000 to remove the filter housing oil. I found aquatic/aquarium supply shops good for replacement hoses.
Excellent video! very well done, thank you. I think I might get one of these I'm deciding between this and the EZ 105 which is very much like the Fumoto valve you replaced.
I just changed the oil on my Jeep and I wish I had seen this video 2 weeks ago. 🤬 I'll bet buying one just before the next change. I'm getting too old to crank that plug off every time. And I LOVE the tube. My driveway looks like a Pollock painting.
I've used Fumoto valves on all of our vehicles. Zero problems. On our Mercedes I was unable to use the Fumoto due to the oil pan design and lip. I bought the Stahlbus. I honestly like them both. The Stahlbus is definitely a smaller profile. PLUS if you track your car/motorcycle you can buy their race cap which has a whole for safety wire, which is a nice touch. Build quality on both are excellent. Time will tell for me on the Stahlbus, but I've had a fumoto valve on my STi since 05'. Still works, and no leaks...
@@ianwhitton1732 honestly they are about the same. Any ball valve is going to slow the flow down compared to removing the drain bolt. I never thought that was an issue though. I would always open the valve then walk away and do something else. Worked out great.
@@NewShockerGuy Yes thats what I do after I release the Fumoto with a tube to a plastic jug I remove the filter then prep all I need to finish the oil change ...What I like best is if there is a breeze blowing the oil will not fly around when using a tube to a jug ...Either would be good just got issues with all the o ring being subject to damage....I think I will stay with the Fumoto...
@@ianwhitton1732 Yep I do the same thing! Definitely easier. One time I was changing the oil outside and it was windy and I didn't use a hose and had oil everywhere due to the wind picking it up and blowing it all over, what a mess that was. I think they both have their purpose. If you have the clearance for the fumoto use it, or if you are already using a fumoto, no reason to swap to a Stahlbus. If you have clearance issues or want one for a track day the Stahlbus is nice because it can be safety wired and signed off on. I did a ton of research online looking for "defective" Stahlbus valves and honestly like fumoto they are extremely rare... So I took piece of mind knowing that in all reality both are going to outlast the vehicles...lol
@@NewShockerGuy As a tip I found adding a small plastic cable tie to the Fumoto prevented anyone from tampering with the lever...It works perfec but I notice they now come with a plastic clip to help prevent most possible issues...Have just fitted the new model Fumoto to mu Mazdz CZ5 fits up perfect...
Thanks for showing another option, I was considering the Fumoto, I just don’t like the fact that it sticks out and parts are exposed... this one has a cap, thanks again!!!
The little cap alone is an issue. If the cap or lease piece somehow get stuck to the valve, you can possibly unscrew the valve from the oil pan or have the valve stuck in the open position; there's too many pieces to this thing, over complicating the matter. Yeah, don't fix something if it works, and the Fumoto has been a champ in the cars I've owned.
What keeps the dust cap from loosening and falling off due to vibration? The U.S.-made ValvoMax looks very similar and functions identically, but features a cap retainer.
One nice thing about the Stahlbus is that it can be installed with a skid plate still on the truck. With the Fumoto you gotta remove your skid (on a Tacoma) cause most of them require being installed with an open end wrench. Gotta ask, how's it been going? Some people pointed out those ball valves can get debris and leak. To me the solution to that is just leave the cap off, refill the truck and see if it's weeping, if it isn't then the valve seat is clean. There's also the question of the o-rings wearing out.
I'm curious if you can stay clean without use of a hose. Using the fumoto (without a hose) I could easily move the lever and not get a single drop of oil on me.
I have a Fumoto on my Transit, but I just ordered the Stahlbus for my Rubicon because it has a smaller profile, and I have some reservations about the longevity of the O-rings on the Fumoto's banjo bolt. I'm not saying they will, but O-rings can dry up and crack.
I've had one of these ball-valve type drain plugs on my pick up for years and it takes sooooo long to drain that I have decided to go back to the regular drain plug. It takes me twice as long to do the job...sucks!
This is the kind of system I've been looking for. What sells it for me is that it has a cap on the end. The Fumoto doesn't have a protective cap. And it has a switch that could get bumped open. The Stahlbus is German made. So it's no doubt machined with precision out of good quality steel.
Yeah, the cap is the primary reason I'm looking at these. Rational or not, I don't care how reliable the Fumoto system is, NOTHING gives a failsafe like a crew on metal cap.
Each valve is different in use. With skid plates, the Fumoto valve is fine and can be operated without any extra parts, any where. On the other hand, the Stahlbus valve is lower profile but needs the extra drain valve part to be opened. Stalhbus says replace their valve every ten years. I can’t make up my mind now... if I had skid plates I might go with the Fumoto. In either case it might be a good idea to keep the original OEM drain plug in the glove box with fresh washer.
I originally thought the same as you.... But you do actually need a hose and a way to connect it with the fumoto. So it's really not that different, unless you just want to let the oil free fall which will not be quite so mess - free. I used paper clips to connect the hose to the fumoto and tried to find a better way... Hose clamps just popped off.... The best solution to attach the hose was the plastic elbow.... In the end, either I am keeping track of a hose with s plastic elbow on the end.... Or a hose with a metal piece... No matter to me. And I suppose if you ever need to change the oil and you don't have the valve release piece.... You just use it like a regular drain a lug. 19mm and its off! I need to use it a few times like i did the fumoto to make a final assessment.
This information is not correct. stahlbus has never make this statement for replacement after 10 years. There are no parts in it, which have a wear. The sealing in it is only metallic.
Stahlbus GmbH I have the Stahlbus oil drain valve. Under “Safety Instructions” section of the paper insert with valve in the packaging, second paragraph, “For the reasons of safety replace oil drain valve at the latest after 10 years.”
Yes, you are right. But it is a little bit misleading formulation. We only want that after 10 years use that you control for silting. Because our valves are not used only in cars or motorcycles. We have also some industrial and aviation applications. Therefor it is a safety rule for those applications. We will change this formulation in future versions of the manual. Thanky for your reply.
I use fumoto valves.. but because of how far the threads protrude into the oil pan, I feel I don’t get a complete drain... and if there is any sediment I think it may be trapped by those threads. I will remove the valve every other oil change for a complete drain. The valves are great for a clean oil change, and reduces the possible of spills coming out the vehicle or during the transfer of waste oil from the pan to a bottle. Just my 2¢
I wish I recorded the removal of the fumoto, but I didn't. However after I let it drain for a long time I went to remove the valve expecting there to be that little bit of oil still captured by the threads. There was nothing there. I can't explain it! When I removed the valve no more oil came out other than just a few drops of remnants. So I too believed that there would be this level of oil that never gets completely drained, but when I removed the valve it wasn't there. I'll be curious to see if anybody else has had this experience before.
@@o3djeeps was the truck perfectly level? If the rear was a bit higher and it wouldn't take much the oil wouldn't come out. With the way your pan is setup I'd almost be inclined (yuk yuk) to drive up on a piece of 2 by 4 or something just to get a bit of rake towards the rear.
I have had this exact valve in one of my vehicles and it leaks (I tried two different valves and same result), not from the thread but from the built in mechanism. I am not going back to the Fumoto valve which has never leaked in any of the vehicles that I have installed it. Besides, I got tired of having to use the hose. No hose needed (unless you wan to) with the Fumoto. this is a certified hood classic
The drain plug and hose seem like $45 solution to getting oil on my hands, but next step is removing my angles filter, which always makes a huge mess when coming off. So much for mess free. The hose to prevent wind spatter might be the biggest advantage for us driveway mechanics, maybe a giant hose over my oil filter is the next invention I will try to find. :-)
A note about nipples - Fumotos come with no nipple, short nipple (like yours) and full-length nipple. Up to you at purchase time. Also, I don't use hoses on mine in most situations, but they do aim their flow pretty consistently, which also helps keep things tidy. If you're looking to put it directly into a jug, a hose can help with that.
The worst part of doing an oil change is cleaning all the stuff that touches oil, the less stuff the better but I understand it’s not the case for everyone
good that we have options like this. im about to get a fumoto, but i live in a place that salt are always on the road when its winter. and my only concern is the spring that is exposed that might get rust or get damage over time. but im not sure about this. ^__^
@@alwaysopen7970 I still hate those vertical oil filters. I like Ford's and basically many others horizontal filters even on the Duramax, doesn't coat the filter with oil. Also I hate that the oil pan wraps half way around the filter and gives you less area to get a grip on.
the stablbus has one part permanently attached to the vehicle and two parts that come off and can get lost. Additionally, the attachment and hose are going to be oily which makes it a little more difficult to store. The only applicaiton where this item may be more useful is in tight clearance situations. Seems to me the fumoto (or EZ) valve with with a long nipple and piece of hose permanently attached is the way to go
I just wonder how fast the the the oil drains with this. The one major complaint people had with Fumoto is that it slows the drain so much that it potentially allows the oil sludge to set at the bottom instead of draining out, even when the oil is hot.
This staglbus seems to have a smaller orifice for the oil to pass through than the fumoto. So has does the sludgey stuff from evacuating with the tight clearances in the stahlbus valve? What about any other particles?
I put a Stahlbus valve on two different vehicles. My only complaint is that the Stahlbus takes forever to drain. For that reason I'm going with Fumoto next time.
You are comparing it to the largest most complicated Fumoto. I use the Fumoto that just has a straight shot to a nipple. No tool to keep track of, and as short as the stahlbus, and seals with an actual ball valve. I think I'll stay with Fumoto.
True.... I also paid $$ for better looking grab handles... so it's all relative I guess! lol I will say... not trying to convince anyone, because this isn't for everyone... but if you've never changed your oil using a valve... its a game changer. Dramatically cuts the time and hassle out of an oil change. Seriously, its not a gimmick. I will forever use this method! :-)
@@o3djeeps "Dramatically cuts the time and hassle"? Literally ten seconds to remove the stock plug is a time saver and more hassle?! I could see it making a difference in how clean it is to do the oil change, but not any kind of time or much of a hassle saver... ;)
@@IcarusTECH With this valve you run the hose into an unused 5qt oil jug, no pan, no towels, no mess at all. With my stock drain plug it would dribble at the end on top of my skid plate and make a mess.
Yep. The old fashioned way still works perfectly!! :-) seriously though, the point here is the ease of draining into a container. It's not about unplugging the flow.
Looks like a good solution. I have had Fumoto valves on my vehicles (most of them Jeeps) for many years. You can buy a Fumoto with a longer nipple on it so you don't need the little adapter to use a hose.
I like the Stahlbus for its simplicity and less exposed or extended metal. Good alternative.
Me too
Main issue I see is the separate part needed to actually drain the oil, versus the self-contained Fumoto. If you misplace or lose the drain part for the Stahlbus valve, you can't drain the oil unless you completely uninstall the ball valve. In other words, a messy flood of oil which is why we use the high priced valves instead of the standard drain plug. I've been using Fumoto valves for decades and never had a problem with them. And the Fumoto is significantly less expensive (still a lot of money for a simple ball valve though). After watching the video, I see no reason to retire my Fumoto.
Exactly this, I will 100% misplace that adapter, or at the very least struggle to find it for a while at some point. Just one time having to look for the damn thing will offset any long term time savings and frustration over just using a regular plug.
If you do a lot of off-roading or rock climbing I can understand going with the Stahlbus for the added durability, but for road use I much prefer the Fumoto for the added reliability when draining. Especially with the longer nipple version that you don't even need an adapter to attach a hose to. And the way I see it if the valve gets hit your oil pan is probably f***** anyway.
I put a Stahlbus on my Odyssey and I keep the drain tool and tube in a ziploc bag in the glove box so it's always with the car. You can store the tool with the drain end of the hose connected to the front of the tube to form a loop so that oil doesn't leak out. It's really not that big of a deal and I like the product. Will be buying another for our Chrysler minivan.
If it all comes down to losing the hose, you can take out the plug just like the regular plug, throw in a new copper washer and put it back.
Nice product, kudos to the person who found & shared it. This is a must have if you use skid plates, keeps any potential mess non existent.
I like the storage hose advice! Thank you!
So of you lose the hose connector, you can't drain the oil. That's why I'd prefer fumoto as no extra stuff is needed. For skid plates, this does look like a great product.
@@TheRealCheckmate or get a fumoto and don't worry about it.
Never lost mine. Dude…put your tools away after use “and you don’t have to worry about it”.
@@jackchandler5315 How about that 10M socket?
The Stahlbus is nice for it’s low profile. Its more secure. Nobody can just go under your car and drain it like the Fumoto.
That is the first thing I thought. If I lose it I’m screwed. Also USA made Fumoto vs. German made Stahlbus. Both are quality products but I’ll stick with the Fumoto.
Awesome...I bought the femco compact version for my Civic.
Any problems w leaking ???
Have one on my truck and its been great. 7 qts of oil take maybe 4 mins to empty no big deal. The cover cap stays on no problem even with vibrations of a diesel. No need to clean the inside of the tube, thats exit only. Keep the drain kit with my funnels so no problem of losing them.
good to hear, that's the other thing...the Fumoto generally take around 20~25 mins I've heard to drain 6.5 quarts. Sounds like the Stahlbus is a lot faster to drain...
In my case on my Subaru, the Fumoto did not really need a hose, but I could imagine low clearance situations where the Stahlbus is preferable. That Fumoto plastic adapter split on day one, so I gave up on the hose.
Ive had the fumoto on my vw for the last 4 years without fail. I am going to try this stahlbus to compare the two
Also use a PELA 6000 to remove the filter housing oil. I found aquatic/aquarium supply shops good for replacement hoses.
dont bother with stahlbus same as feam sure drian- messier than fumoteo
I put a vacuum on my fill port. Place a bucket under my oil pan. Take out the drain plug. Shut off the vacuum. Oil drains, no spill or drips.
Excellent video! very well done, thank you. I think I might get one of these I'm deciding between this and the EZ 105 which is very much like the Fumoto valve you replaced.
I've had the Fumoto valve for years. Yes I bought the elbow and hose separately, no I've never used them. There's no need to.
I just changed the oil on my Jeep and I wish I had seen this video 2 weeks ago. 🤬 I'll bet buying one just before the next change. I'm getting too old to crank that plug off every time. And I LOVE the tube. My driveway looks like a Pollock painting.
I've used Fumoto valves on all of our vehicles. Zero problems. On our Mercedes I was unable to use the Fumoto due to the oil pan design and lip. I bought the Stahlbus. I honestly like them both. The Stahlbus is definitely a smaller profile. PLUS if you track your car/motorcycle you can buy their race cap which has a whole for safety wire, which is a nice touch. Build quality on both are excellent. Time will tell for me on the Stahlbus, but I've had a fumoto valve on my STi since 05'. Still works, and no leaks...
Which would you say drains quicker I have the Fumoto but it takes a while to drain completly....
@@ianwhitton1732 honestly they are about the same. Any ball valve is going to slow the flow down compared to removing the drain bolt. I never thought that was an issue though. I would always open the valve then walk away and do something else. Worked out great.
@@NewShockerGuy Yes thats what I do after I release the Fumoto with a tube to a plastic jug I remove the filter then prep all I need to finish the oil change ...What I like best is if there is a breeze blowing the oil will not fly around when using a tube to a jug ...Either would be good just got issues with all the o ring being subject to damage....I think I will stay with the Fumoto...
@@ianwhitton1732 Yep I do the same thing! Definitely easier. One time I was changing the oil outside and it was windy and I didn't use a hose and had oil everywhere due to the wind picking it up and blowing it all over, what a mess that was. I think they both have their purpose. If you have the clearance for the fumoto use it, or if you are already using a fumoto, no reason to swap to a Stahlbus. If you have clearance issues or want one for a track day the Stahlbus is nice because it can be safety wired and signed off on. I did a ton of research online looking for "defective" Stahlbus valves and honestly like fumoto they are extremely rare... So I took piece of mind knowing that in all reality both are going to outlast the vehicles...lol
@@NewShockerGuy As a tip I found adding a small plastic cable tie to the Fumoto prevented anyone from tampering with the lever...It works perfec but I notice they now come with a plastic clip to help prevent most possible issues...Have just fitted the new model Fumoto to mu Mazdz CZ5 fits up perfect...
Thanks for showing another option, I was considering the Fumoto, I just don’t like the fact that it sticks out and parts are exposed... this one has a cap, thanks again!!!
I'm actually getting ready to change the oil (next week or so) and I'll be doing another video on the stahlbus.
The little cap alone is an issue. If the cap or lease piece somehow get stuck to the valve, you can possibly unscrew the valve from the oil pan or have the valve stuck in the open position; there's too many pieces to this thing, over complicating the matter. Yeah, don't fix something if it works, and the Fumoto has been a champ in the cars I've owned.
What keeps the dust cap from loosening and falling off due to vibration? The U.S.-made ValvoMax looks very similar and functions identically, but features a cap retainer.
The o-ring?
One nice thing about the Stahlbus is that it can be installed with a skid plate still on the truck. With the Fumoto you gotta remove your skid (on a Tacoma) cause most of them require being installed with an open end wrench. Gotta ask, how's it been going? Some people pointed out those ball valves can get debris and leak. To me the solution to that is just leave the cap off, refill the truck and see if it's weeping, if it isn't then the valve seat is clean. There's also the question of the o-rings wearing out.
Just an FYI... that's a COPPER crush ring/washer, not brass. Nice video though 👍
I'm curious if you can stay clean without use of a hose. Using the fumoto (without a hose) I could easily move the lever and not get a single drop of oil on me.
Fumoto is ALL I need. I can see myself losing those parts. Then i would have to take that unit off as if it’s the oem drain plug.
I have a Fumoto on my Transit, but I just ordered the Stahlbus for my Rubicon because it has a smaller profile, and I have some reservations about the longevity of the O-rings on the Fumoto's banjo bolt. I'm not saying they will, but O-rings can dry up and crack.
I've had one of these ball-valve type drain plugs on my pick up for years and it takes sooooo long to drain that I have decided to go back to the regular drain plug. It takes me twice as long to do the job...sucks!
The Stahlbus has a 6 point hex so it’s easy to torque or remove.
This is the kind of system I've been looking for. What sells it for me is that it has a cap on the end. The Fumoto doesn't have a protective cap. And it has a switch that could get bumped open. The Stahlbus is German made. So it's no doubt machined with precision out of good quality steel.
Yeah, the cap is the primary reason I'm looking at these. Rational or not, I don't care how reliable the Fumoto system is, NOTHING gives a failsafe like a crew on metal cap.
Each valve is different in use. With skid plates, the Fumoto valve is fine and can be operated without any extra parts, any where. On the other hand, the Stahlbus valve is lower profile but needs the extra drain valve part to be opened. Stalhbus says replace their valve every ten years.
I can’t make up my mind now...
if I had skid plates I might go with the Fumoto.
In either case it might be a good idea to keep the original OEM drain plug in the glove box with fresh washer.
I originally thought the same as you.... But you do actually need a hose and a way to connect it with the fumoto. So it's really not that different, unless you just want to let the oil free fall which will not be quite so mess - free. I used paper clips to connect the hose to the fumoto and tried to find a better way... Hose clamps just popped off.... The best solution to attach the hose was the plastic elbow.... In the end, either I am keeping track of a hose with s plastic elbow on the end.... Or a hose with a metal piece... No matter to me. And I suppose if you ever need to change the oil and you don't have the valve release piece.... You just use it like a regular drain a lug. 19mm and its off! I need to use it a few times like i did the fumoto to make a final assessment.
This information is not correct. stahlbus has never make this statement for replacement after 10 years. There are no parts in it, which have a wear. The sealing in it is only metallic.
Well... There you go. I didn't see that coming... Thanks for popping in, Mr.
or Mrs.@@stahlbusGmbH ! 😁 Thanks for clarifying that.
Stahlbus GmbH I have the Stahlbus oil drain valve. Under “Safety Instructions” section of the paper insert with valve in the packaging, second paragraph, “For the reasons of safety replace oil drain valve at the latest after 10 years.”
Yes, you are right. But it is a little bit misleading formulation. We only want that after 10 years use that you control for silting. Because our valves are not used only in cars or motorcycles. We have also some industrial and aviation applications. Therefor it is a safety rule for those applications. We will change this formulation in future versions of the manual. Thanky for your reply.
I like it better than the fumoto because of the cap. In my opinion It adds extra security
Very nice review. Thanks.
I use fumoto valves.. but because of how far the threads protrude into the oil pan, I feel I don’t get a complete drain... and if there is any sediment I think it may be trapped by those threads. I will remove the valve every other oil change for a complete drain. The valves are great for a clean oil change, and reduces the possible of spills coming out the vehicle or during the transfer of waste oil from the pan to a bottle.
Just my 2¢
I wish I recorded the removal of the fumoto, but I didn't. However after I let it drain for a long time I went to remove the valve expecting there to be that little bit of oil still captured by the threads. There was nothing there. I can't explain it! When I removed the valve no more oil came out other than just a few drops of remnants. So I too believed that there would be this level of oil that never gets completely drained, but when I removed the valve it wasn't there. I'll be curious to see if anybody else has had this experience before.
@@wangwang2003 good idea. I’ll look into that.
@@o3djeeps was the truck perfectly level? If the rear was a bit higher and it wouldn't take much the oil wouldn't come out. With the way your pan is setup I'd almost be inclined (yuk yuk) to drive up on a piece of 2 by 4 or something just to get a bit of rake towards the rear.
I have had this exact valve in one of my vehicles and it leaks (I tried two different valves and same result), not from the thread but from the built in mechanism. I am not going back to the Fumoto valve which has never leaked in any of the vehicles that I have installed it. Besides, I got tired of having to use the hose. No hose needed (unless you wan to) with the Fumoto.
this is a certified hood classic
Since it’s been 3 years since you made this video, any updates? Still using or went back to Fumoto or something else?
Great product 👍
The drain plug and hose seem like $45 solution to getting oil on my hands, but next step is removing my angles filter, which always makes a huge mess when coming off. So much for mess free. The hose to prevent wind spatter might be the biggest advantage for us driveway mechanics, maybe a giant hose over my oil filter is the next invention I will try to find. :-)
spin it off using a plastic grocery bag as a glove and put a few paper towels in the bottom, works well.
A note about nipples - Fumotos come with no nipple, short nipple (like yours) and full-length nipple. Up to you at purchase time.
Also, I don't use hoses on mine in most situations, but they do aim their flow pretty consistently, which also helps keep things tidy. If you're looking to put it directly into a jug, a hose can help with that.
It's nice to see a quality item for sale for a change. When most things like this that interest me turn out to be a POS. Thank you for showing it.
The worst part of doing an oil change is cleaning all the stuff that touches oil, the less stuff the better but I understand it’s not the case for everyone
good that we have options like this.
im about to get a fumoto, but i live in a place that salt are always on the road when its winter. and my only concern is the spring that is exposed that might get rust or get damage over time.
but im not sure about this. ^__^
exposed what spingy
Sticking with fumoto, it's all in one, with this unit, I have a half of it that I can and will lose, without that adapter, your screwed.
Lose that little fumoto clip.
Changing oil is not hard on a Chevy truck, I can do it in the dark.
Your the first person the i saw even using the extra locking clip, totally unnecessary to install, been using them from the 80's
@@alwaysopen7970 I still hate those vertical oil filters. I like Ford's and basically many others horizontal filters even on the Duramax, doesn't coat the filter with oil. Also I hate that the oil pan wraps half way around the filter and gives you less area to get a grip on.
I have been considering something like this but honestly just removing the bolt is so simple I just can’t bring myself to doing it.
Neat little valve.
Thanks good video !!!
the stablbus has one part permanently attached to the vehicle and two parts that come off and can get lost. Additionally, the attachment and hose are going to be oily which makes it a little more difficult to store. The only applicaiton where this item may be more useful is in tight clearance situations.
Seems to me the fumoto (or EZ) valve with with a long nipple and piece of hose permanently attached is the way to go
Awesome which one would I need for a 2011 Jeep Wrangler unlimited 3,8
Cpo did your fumoto valve clear the access hatch for rockhard4×4 skid plate?
I just wonder how fast the the the oil drains with this. The one major complaint people had with Fumoto is that it slows the drain so much that it potentially allows the oil sludge to set at the bottom instead of draining out, even when the oil is hot.
This staglbus seems to have a smaller orifice for the oil to pass through than the fumoto. So has does the sludgey stuff from evacuating with the tight clearances in the stahlbus valve? What about any other particles?
Very thorough video. Thank you! I passed on the Fumoto because it protrudes too much for off-road use, IMHO. How has your valve held up?
Nice. Definitely like that it's smaller than the fumoto, just wondering if it's worth Buying. Thanks for the vid
where can I find one for a Hyundai Santa fe 2018 in Canada
where can I find one in canada for a 2018 Hyundai Santa fe 2.0 motor
where can I find one these in Canada
Very cool
what happens when u lose the adapter ? ….
The down side I see whit this value is oh no I lost the drain part dang . The other style it’s on the car nothing to lose ?
Seems like somebody redesigned an air cupler like air compressors use.?
The Stahlbus website isn't very good. The website doesn't even show one available for a Honda CR-V past 2017.
Sold me; until I'm sold by the next thing.
How about the diagram of the threads.
Or all the cars are the same
Too many steps with this valve. Plus neither valve offers the magnetic tip
Yeah.
Stahlbus having a ball check valve in it doesn't make it a ball valve! A ton more restrictive the the Fumoto...
guy above said he drains 7 quarts in 4 minutes, Fumoto takes like 20~25 mins for 6.2 quarts based on the videos I've seen from Tacoma guys.
What kind of tool bag do you have on the floor?
How hard is it to write a grammatically correct question?
supernice_auto hey Karen 🙋🏼♂️
@@ffsteel111 I see the edit- well done bro I'm prod of you :)
supernice_auto thx for the heads up did not realize .
@@ffsteel111 It's all good!
I put a Stahlbus valve on two different vehicles. My only complaint is that the Stahlbus takes forever to drain. For that reason I'm going with Fumoto next time.
👍
You are comparing it to the largest most complicated Fumoto. I use the Fumoto that just has a straight shot to a nipple. No tool to keep track of, and as short as the stahlbus, and seals with an actual ball valve. I think I'll stay with Fumoto.
Beats the brakes off a Fumoto valve
👎
I dont like the Stahlbus because you can lose that hose attachment.
same as fram sure drain from a few years ago- fumoto is the way to go
Who cares the only thing important is that if it leaks! Most people don’t need to worry about it coming off
This is German made which usually means precision and quality over Chinese junk. I would buy this over the other brand mentioned.
Fumoto is Japanese
Fumoto was originally designed in Japan and is made in USA. I’d say the quality is going to be just as good.
I enjoy your vids. I really do. But $45 for something that’s not as fool-proof as the stock drain plug? No thanks.
True.... I also paid $$ for better looking grab handles... so it's all relative I guess! lol I will say... not trying to convince anyone, because this isn't for everyone... but if you've never changed your oil using a valve... its a game changer. Dramatically cuts the time and hassle out of an oil change. Seriously, its not a gimmick. I will forever use this method! :-)
@@o3djeeps "Dramatically cuts the time and hassle"? Literally ten seconds to remove the stock plug is a time saver and more hassle?! I could see it making a difference in how clean it is to do the oil change, but not any kind of time or much of a hassle saver... ;)
@@IcarusTECH With this valve you run the hose into an unused 5qt oil jug, no pan, no towels, no mess at all. With my stock drain plug it would dribble at the end on top of my skid plate and make a mess.
I have a small oil pump that pumps the oil through the steelh valve right into the oil catch in the garage.
Why not just crawl under there with the proper size wrench
Yep. The old fashioned way still works perfectly!! :-) seriously though, the point here is the ease of draining into a container. It's not about unplugging the flow.
Another gimmick for those who want to part with their money.
its good , why risk stripping ali pans and enegines when you just have ahandy valve ??
where can I find one in Canada for a Hyundai Santa fe
where can I find one in Canada