I watched your video to take my Kershaw 1881 apart, clean and reassemble - thank you! But I wanted to add that when I reassembled the knife I started with the torsion bar side down - set the torsion bar, back plate and blade post - then dropped the blade on making it easy to line up the torsion bar end. Then simply added the other parts to the handle she went to together super simple.
You won my subscription with this video ya helped me through taking down my beloved dividend and getting it back together without a hitch thank you thank you
In case some viewers do not know, loctite is a good thing, but more is not better. Also, it cures is the absence of oxygen, as in the narrow thread areas of screws. When you have the tension right, put the knife down and leave it alone for a day or so, to allow the loctite to cure. Patience is a virtue. Use the blue stuff here, since it will ease disassembly later. The red stuff has its place, and you do not know when to use it, do your research first. The red stuff can be released with heat and/or shock, and it is a bit more useful when loosening at the wrong time is unacceptable . I use the red stuff with handgun sites and screws I want to leave in semi-permanently. Also, it you use soft screws or non-hardened tools, the red loctite will punish you.
Some good points Scott G. You are correct on the "put the knife down, and leave it alone" part. So many people forget that part. A day or so, is a bit over-kill. But good to do, if possible. On the use of blue Loctite though. Not so much. Blue is for, and I'll quote directly from their technical data sheet. "Is for use on metal fasteners 1/4" (6 mm) *to* 3/4" (19 mm) in diameter. Such as bolts on small engines." The wrench size, for a 3/4" bolt. Is 1.125". A lot of leverage comes with that beast, and it may be needed. Depending on thread length, whether a primer was used, etc.. The proper Loctite to use here, is 222 Low Strength Purple Threadlocker. Ideal for fastener diameters of 1/4" (6mm) and *smaller.* > bit.ly/2A7uoCo No 1.125" wrench needed ; - )
"Industrial a$$ is basically the scent of this..." 😆 Lol I am going to be buying this knife so I'm watching carefully. Thank you for the very entertaining instructional. 👍👍
Thanks for this. I found an older Kershaw knife that was a bit rusty. I disassembled to clean it but when I reassembled it the screws wouldn’t stay in. What am I doing wrong?
The construction is parctically just like ZT 0566... BTW When I re-assemble mine I just do it the other way around so the assist spring is really easy to put back.
I wonder if you could wrap the big end of that assist spring with Teflon tape to prevent rattling. or maybe plastidip. I see how the grease would work but there must be a non messy solution?
Goliath Mylan if you were familiar with speed safe knifes at all you would know your not lubricating the torsion bar the grease is just to keep it from rattling like he explains ! They come from the factory with grease on them
If speedsafe is a bandaid for good flipping action in poor tolerance knives I would have to say the same thing about bearings and super strong detents. Since it’s a lot harder to have great flipping actin with bronze washers.
Sorry add to my previous comment, I have a dividend and have probably opened and closed it a 1000 times, tonight the spring assist quit working, the blade is still centered and now I can flick it open without any assistance except the flick of my wrist. Has the spring broken? Appreciate any help bud
Torsion bar will break . I have had mine break 4 times. If you plan on opening more than 300 times it will break. The torsion bar has to bend way to much and will snap.. kinda junky.
john treadway I’ve opened mine probably close to 1000 times and have not any problem with the torsion bar. However, all the screw that hold the blade stop in place have stripped and rattle out. Have you had that issue as well?
After a couple hundred openings the assist spring will break where the u-bend touches the scale. Buy this knife if you enjoy emailing Kershaw every few months about a new spring.
Stoney Lonsome ha ha ha. Like those American Kershaws. I have Bird and Frankie's American made Link. Lovin it. In fact, I think it came from Mr. Nick also.
I watched your video to take my Kershaw 1881 apart, clean and reassemble - thank you! But I wanted to add that when I reassembled the knife I started with the torsion bar side down - set the torsion bar, back plate and blade post - then dropped the blade on making it easy to line up the torsion bar end. Then simply added the other parts to the handle she went to together super simple.
Knife works beautifully again. I like the tip about the watch pin tools to help align the spacer. That has given me trouble in the past.
Thank you for doing these videos. They are very informative and I really get a kick out of some of the comments you add while you are working.
You won my subscription with this video ya helped me through taking down my beloved dividend and getting it back together without a hitch thank you thank you
Why does blue loctight come in a red bottle and red in a blue? It is like they want me to screw it up
Great info……..just purchased one and needed your video 🤔
I have no idea why this is so fascinating lol thanks for the great videos!
In case some viewers do not know, loctite is a good thing, but more is not better. Also, it cures is the absence of oxygen, as in the narrow thread areas of screws. When you have the tension right, put the knife down and leave it alone for a day or so, to allow the loctite to cure. Patience is a virtue. Use the blue stuff here, since it will ease disassembly later. The red stuff has its place, and you do not know when to use it, do your research first. The red stuff can be released with heat and/or shock, and it is a bit more useful when loosening at the wrong time is unacceptable . I use the red stuff with handgun sites and screws I want to leave in semi-permanently. Also, it you use soft screws or non-hardened tools, the red loctite will punish you.
Some good points Scott G. You are correct on the "put the knife down, and leave it alone" part. So many people forget that part. A day or so, is a bit over-kill. But good to do, if possible.
On the use of blue Loctite though. Not so much. Blue is for, and I'll quote directly from their technical data sheet. "Is for use on metal fasteners 1/4" (6 mm) *to* 3/4" (19 mm) in diameter. Such as bolts on small engines."
The wrench size, for a 3/4" bolt. Is 1.125". A lot of leverage comes with that beast, and it may be needed. Depending on thread length, whether a primer was used, etc..
The proper Loctite to use here, is 222 Low Strength Purple Threadlocker. Ideal for fastener diameters of 1/4" (6mm) and *smaller.*
> bit.ly/2A7uoCo
No 1.125" wrench needed ; - )
Appreciate the video since I have the M390 version coming and I’m sure I’ll be doing this at some point.
Thanks for the video. I got my Dad a dividend in magnacut for Christmas, and I was curious how it's put together.
Nick,
I watch a lot of your posts and u have taught me a lot
"Industrial a$$ is basically the scent of this..." 😆 Lol I am going to be buying this knife so I'm watching carefully. Thank you for the very entertaining instructional. 👍👍
Thanks for this. I found an older Kershaw knife that was a bit rusty. I disassembled to clean it but when I reassembled it the screws wouldn’t stay in. What am I doing wrong?
The construction is parctically just like ZT 0566... BTW When I re-assemble mine I just do it the other way around so the assist spring is really easy to put back.
nice job, well done as always
Thank you Nick for this video :) You helped me a lot.
Ordered a Spyderco Harpy coming in today. Looking forward to s simpler more effective design. 👏
"Get outta there you little screw bastard..." lol 😂
Tactical Maraca - I need to get me one of those.
I wonder if you could wrap the big end of that assist spring with Teflon tape to prevent rattling. or maybe plastidip. I see how the grease would work but there must be a non messy solution?
I imagine nick looks like James Bond in a suit at all times.
I was thinking Woody Allen (in a suit perhaps) but yeah . . .
Daamn!!...That's a lot of freaking lube. You don't need that much, you just lubricating a little torsion bar, not the drive shaft of a Chevy pick-up.
+POLYMER GRIP The goal isn’t lubrication, but keeping it from rattling,
Goliath Mylan if you were familiar with speed safe knifes at all you would know your not lubricating the torsion bar the grease is just to keep it from rattling like he explains ! They come from the factory with grease on them
Insead of the red smelly grease...how about lithium grease which is used in fine pens as well?
"Tactical maraca" do you have this stuff written down in a script or are you just coming up with it on the fly?
+BeeSawd Alas, I just talk.
There's several hysterical zingers in here. NY wise a$$. 👍👍👍 Makes learning about knives fun.
I❤️NY
Nick did you take apart the FRN model? Are the scale screws free-spinning like the Link?
instaBlaster...
"Industrial ass" - Nick. LOLOL
it would be a lot easier if you put the torsion bar in and then the scale on top of it.
Great Video!
If speedsafe is a bandaid for good flipping action in poor tolerance knives I would have to say the same thing about bearings and super strong detents. Since it’s a lot harder to have great flipping actin with bronze washers.
Pretentious rust lol funny guy I’m enjoying videos, Question, is Damascus steel in a link worth a premium ?
I'm curious anyone know if I could take the gray handle off a damascus one of these and put a black one onto it from a normal dividend??
Sorry add to my previous comment, I have a dividend and have probably opened and closed it a 1000 times, tonight the spring assist quit working, the blade is still centered and now I can flick it open without any assistance except the flick of my wrist. Has the spring broken?
Appreciate any help bud
Probably, yes. You can take it apart and see what's gone on using this video.
Can you reassemble the knife without the spring? NY knife laws are irritating.
Yay frog lube
Boil water and drop it in pour out water and dry with a rag. Put oil back in pivot.
This is poor advice. You’ll wash out the grease and it will rattle
at 11:52 Nick channeled Peter Griffin
Can you de-assist it?
Mike L. 10:40
No
Torsion bar will break . I have had mine break 4 times. If you plan on opening more than 300 times it will break. The torsion bar has to bend way to much and will snap.. kinda junky.
john treadway I’ve opened mine probably close to 1000 times and have not any problem with the torsion bar. However, all the screw that hold the blade stop in place have stripped and rattle out. Have you had that issue as well?
No, no rattle.
After a couple hundred openings the assist spring will break where the u-bend touches the scale. Buy this knife if you enjoy emailing Kershaw every few months about a new spring.
Industrial ass, lol
'Industrial Ass' scent...I'm visualizing chemists in a cosmetics lab working on the scent.
"Industrial Ass" i imagine is like gear oil (automotive differential 90w conventional)
Inside Hi-Fi in my neck of the woods we call gear oil "skunk juice". Lol
Tactical Maraca and Industrial Ass. lmao
Whoa. Another American...
Stoney Lonsome ha ha ha. Like those American Kershaws. I have Bird and Frankie's American made Link. Lovin it. In fact, I think it came from Mr. Nick also.
This knife is a bit of a bitch to reassemble 🙄