What a great video!!! I love all of your videos actually!!! 3 piece drill mounts are my specialty. I have often been laughed at because I love to work with them and most Opticians won’t touch them. One thing that I do to ensure that I don’t scratch the lens is place tape on the lenses before removing a bushing. It’s time consuming but it’s worth it!
Yeah - once you "really" understand the versatility of three piece designs you can't help but love them. Funny what a struggle it is to finally get it to click with so many people. But once it does - look out! You mean I can make the lens any size? Yes! You mean I can make the lens any shape I want? Yes!
Awesome video! Now I know how to fix my broken sihlouettes. I don't know why most opticians have to send them away to a special lab to be installed and it always takes ages
LOL "Send them away to a special lab." Glad I wasn't drinking coffee or I would have spit it out my nose. Those aren't opticians... Yep, I think if you are careful you can do the job yourself. I'll be here. John
No sadly you need to know the frame line and then what size bushing and what style busing they use. Good thing is they are pretty cheap! I think you'll find the majority are either 1.4 or 1.6.
Most of the tools you see in later videos are from Santinelli International Optical Supply or SIOS. Early ones are almost all from Hilco. Both offer some quality good looking tools now.
Do you have suggestions for accurately measuring drill coordinates if they aren't provided? I currently use graph paper and a PD stick, as you mentioned in a comment below, but wasn't sure if there are any other "tricks" I could try.
Unless you have an edger with the camera shape capture no. Graph paper and a PD stick is about as good as it gets. Somebody used to make cling stickers with 2X the grid lines but I have not seen them in a catalog in a long time. Now if you are drilling by hand then I suppose you could use the old lenses as a guide if everything nested nicely together. Oh and, YOU GO GIRL! Hand layout of drill holes!
@@LaramyKOptical Those cling stickers sound like they would be pretty handy; bummer I missed out on them! While I wouldn't say I enjoy hand layout, it is satisfying when a really off-the-wall drill mount comes in and the coordinates are on point the first time! Thanks for another great video!
Bought a pair of 3 piece drill mount glasses from Visionworks. I asked them to adjust the pantoscopic tilt and they acted like they didn't know how to do it, or maybe were afraid they'd break the lenses. Can the pantoscopic tilt be adjusted for drill mount or should I just return these and pick a different frame? I have 100 days to return the glasses if I don't like them.
It depends on the style but most 3 piece can be adjusted using a brace and bend technique. Using the same tool you use to press the bushings you support the hinge/chassis and bend away. That stuff is on the OpticianWorks website.
Nice video 💪👌👏 if you may I have a question : if you drill the lens manually and you don’t have the original frame lenses as a guide ... how you choose where to place the holes ? Thank you
Tough one! Used to be some cling on/stick on grid decals that helped with that. I'd need a little more to go on here --- I'm not sure of a situation where you wouldn't have the old lenses to work with? You have to have a size and shape coming from something! If you don't your flying solo anyway so have at it. ????
@@LaramyKOptical thanks for responding 😊 what I mean is sometimes you are required to change the shape of the lenses to a different one from the original ... Example : a client wants to make his lenses in the shape of an aviator lens while the original lenses have a rectangular shape. How do you place the holes in a similar case ? Thank you
@@Jay51192 In that case you are working 100% on experience. The original hole placement might give you some idea of position -- temple holes higher than bridge etc. -- but beyond that it is entirely up to you. I think I'd scour the internet and find some old drill charts. Heck even a good picture of what you want would be very helpful. Beyond that you will need a hole gauge to determine hole sizing and the hole spacing has to be just about perfect or you will end up with a wobble. Seems like something you would be doing as 100% custom work and time and experience will teach you OR it seems like something you might just say, "no" do doing.
I have a 3 piece mount that I ordered from our lab twice now bc they are sending it back to me with the lens wobbly and I can't tighten it. I really can't tell if the holes are drilled larger than the sleeves or if maybe the lens is too thin in the nasal/ bridge (1.9mm). The place that I work ONLY allows me to order 1.4, 1.7 or 1.8 sleeves and not a variety of tools. When the lab sent them the first time with the lens wobbly, I took it apart and changed the sleeves and the lens was still wobbly. Is it possible the lens could be too thin for it to clamp in tighter? Or the sleeve needs to be a size that I cannot get? The 2nd pair the lab sent is exactly the same damn way! This lady spent a lot of money on this pair of glasses. I hate to reorder these again when this should be a simple fix. I am not use to having this problem with a drill mount. Have you ever had one that you couldn't get the lens to clamp in and seat well?
50% of the time that is because the lens isn't thick enough for the bushing to seat properly. Time to break out the calipers! 50% of the time it is because the hole is drilled too large - to check on that you need the hole pin gauge. Of course could be both! Same for any other verification work - if it is wrong send it back. Wobble is not OK.
AR marking pen and a PD stick, tape, grid over-lays are all techniques. Most are done by the edger now so they are perfect within 1/100th of a mm or better.
Hello Laramy, Im here again to learn...thank you...
You are welcome. John
What a great video!!! I love all of your videos actually!!! 3 piece drill mounts are my specialty. I have often been laughed at because I love to work with them and most Opticians won’t touch them. One thing that I do to ensure that I don’t scratch the lens is place tape on the lenses before removing a bushing. It’s time consuming but it’s worth it!
Yeah - once you "really" understand the versatility of three piece designs you can't help but love them. Funny what a struggle it is to finally get it to click with so many people. But once it does - look out! You mean I can make the lens any size? Yes! You mean I can make the lens any shape I want? Yes!
Awesome video! Now I know how to fix my broken sihlouettes. I don't know why most opticians have to send them away to a special lab to be installed and it always takes ages
LOL "Send them away to a special lab." Glad I wasn't drinking coffee or I would have spit it out my nose. Those aren't opticians... Yep, I think if you are careful you can do the job yourself. I'll be here. John
Is there a standard size of bushing/ ones used more than others / a common size ?
No sadly you need to know the frame line and then what size bushing and what style busing they use. Good thing is they are pretty cheap! I think you'll find the majority are either 1.4 or 1.6.
Where do you order your tools?
Most of the tools you see in later videos are from Santinelli International Optical Supply or SIOS. Early ones are almost all from Hilco. Both offer some quality good looking tools now.
Can you help?
Where I can buy bushings?
Hilco or SIOS Santinelli International Optical Supply.
Do you have suggestions for accurately measuring drill coordinates if they aren't provided? I currently use graph paper and a PD stick, as you mentioned in a comment below, but wasn't sure if there are any other "tricks" I could try.
Unless you have an edger with the camera shape capture no. Graph paper and a PD stick is about as good as it gets. Somebody used to make cling stickers with 2X the grid lines but I have not seen them in a catalog in a long time. Now if you are drilling by hand then I suppose you could use the old lenses as a guide if everything nested nicely together. Oh and, YOU GO GIRL! Hand layout of drill holes!
@@LaramyKOptical Those cling stickers sound like they would be pretty handy; bummer I missed out on them! While I wouldn't say I enjoy hand layout, it is satisfying when a really off-the-wall drill mount comes in and the coordinates are on point the first time! Thanks for another great video!
Bought a pair of 3 piece drill mount glasses from Visionworks. I asked them to adjust the pantoscopic tilt and they acted like they didn't know how to do it, or maybe were afraid they'd break the lenses. Can the pantoscopic tilt be adjusted for drill mount or should I just return these and pick a different frame? I have 100 days to return the glasses if I don't like them.
It depends on the style but most 3 piece can be adjusted using a brace and bend technique. Using the same tool you use to press the bushings you support the hinge/chassis and bend away. That stuff is on the OpticianWorks website.
Nice video 💪👌👏 if you may I have a question : if you drill the lens manually and you don’t have the original frame lenses as a guide ... how you choose where to place the holes ?
Thank you
Tough one! Used to be some cling on/stick on grid decals that helped with that. I'd need a little more to go on here --- I'm not sure of a situation where you wouldn't have the old lenses to work with? You have to have a size and shape coming from something! If you don't your flying solo anyway so have at it. ????
@@LaramyKOptical thanks for responding 😊 what I mean is sometimes you are required to change the shape of the lenses to a different one from the original ... Example : a client wants to make his lenses in the shape of an aviator lens while the original lenses have a rectangular shape.
How do you place the holes in a similar case ?
Thank you
@@Jay51192 In that case you are working 100% on experience. The original hole placement might give you some idea of position -- temple holes higher than bridge etc. -- but beyond that it is entirely up to you. I think I'd scour the internet and find some old drill charts. Heck even a good picture of what you want would be very helpful. Beyond that you will need a hole gauge to determine hole sizing and the hole spacing has to be just about perfect or you will end up with a wobble. Seems like something you would be doing as 100% custom work and time and experience will teach you OR it seems like something you might just say, "no" do doing.
@@LaramyKOptical thank you 😊
Hi Sir, Can I share this video with my students for educational purposes?
YES!
I have a 3 piece mount that I ordered from our lab twice now bc they are sending it back to me with the lens wobbly and I can't tighten it. I really can't tell if the holes are drilled larger than the sleeves or if maybe the lens is too thin in the nasal/ bridge (1.9mm). The place that I work ONLY allows me to order 1.4, 1.7 or 1.8 sleeves and not a variety of tools. When the lab sent them the first time with the lens wobbly, I took it apart and changed the sleeves and the lens was still wobbly. Is it possible the lens could be too thin for it to clamp in tighter? Or the sleeve needs to be a size that I cannot get? The 2nd pair the lab sent is exactly the same damn way! This lady spent a lot of money on this pair of glasses. I hate to reorder these again when this should be a simple fix. I am not use to having this problem with a drill mount. Have you ever had one that you couldn't get the lens to clamp in and seat well?
50% of the time that is because the lens isn't thick enough for the bushing to seat properly. Time to break out the calipers! 50% of the time it is because the hole is drilled too large - to check on that you need the hole pin gauge. Of course could be both! Same for any other verification work - if it is wrong send it back. Wobble is not OK.
drilling holes for 3 piece at same level
how to make holes in lens at the same level
AR marking pen and a PD stick, tape, grid over-lays are all techniques. Most are done by the edger now so they are perfect within 1/100th of a mm or better.
Osm
You can get great frames under 60 bucks online. Why bother. People still buy those things.