What I remember about Jarts is that the fins slid on the shaft. Slide the fins forward to expose the handle for throwing, but then when thrown the fins slide to the back of the shaft. At that point it is extra front-heavy, so the tip drives the dart down to earth. When it hits the ground, the fins slide down the shaft hammering the tip home with a satisfying “smack” sound.
Agree....I came here to say this. I also believe the fins sliding backward would create more "tail drag", that with having the weight at the top would keep it flying straighter with less tumbling
While I agree that the original Jarts were made that way, that would create a bigger problem on Wes's current design. The CG needs to be closer to the tip for stable flight, and having the (relatively) heavy 3D printed fins slide backwards in flight will actually move the CG in the wrong direction. A sliding fin design would work, but you would need even more mass at the tip to compensate so the CG remains far enough forward even when the mass of the fins is furthest back.
I had a set of these as a kid in the early 80's. My set had a metallic tip, and the entire fin section was injection-molded plastic. There was no metal rod (or any metal) rear of the tip. This put the center of gravity near the tip of the darts, meaning that they tended to stay pointing tip-forwards. I'm wondering if the CG of your darts is too far rearward, making them "tumble" through the air instead of pointing in the correct direction. Great video. This brought back some good memories.
Yeah they were an injection molded dart with a cast metal tip. I do remember some having metal up the center but it was like an eight inch threaded rod with an acorn nut on the back end, not a quarter inch steel rod.
Being an engineer in aerospace (retired) for almost the last 20 years, I can confirm that your center of gravity is way too far toward the back of the dart. Moving the CG can be done by making the tip heavier or moving the fins closer to the front. You are not really building a plane or a rocket but more like a ballistic missile. Once it gets to it’s apex the dy is zero and starts to go negative. At that point the acceleration of gravity takes over in the opposite direction. In order to have is ‘stick’ at the point desired, the dx has to be almost zero and dy still needs to have some significant component so as to drive the ‘point’ into the ground. Testing can be done with a pair of small scales and a consistent location point. However, you method is much more fun. Hope that helps.
Watch some videos of people testing model rocket stability. you can actually perform a swing test where you tie a string to the dart at the center of gravity and then swing it in circles. If the dart orients itself in the air with the nose pointing forward, you know you have a stable design. That way, you should know before you ever throw one that it will be stable in flight. From what I can see between the second (successful) and third version is not necessarily the overall increased mass, but the fact that all the newly added mass was in the back, pushing the center of gravity towards the back and rendering it unstable. Two ways to fix that are to either lighten the fins, or increase the size of the weighted mass at the front.
The big problem with the design (which still exists) is making the handle end out of metal. The originals had the rear end of the dart made from light weight plastic. The weight of the metal causes 2 problems. - First it moves the center of gravity rearward so the fins have less stabilizing force so it won't stabilize as fast. - Second the extra mass gives it more rotational inertia. When you release the dart it is rotating and that rotation must be stopped so less mass would make it stabilize much faster. Make the rod out of wood or plastic for everything past the big weight. It will immediately work perfectly. You could also reduce the size of the big weight if you make that change. Reducing the mass a little bit will probably make it stabilize faster too.
This is my theory as well. The disadvantage of making everything aft of the point out of lightweight materials is that it will reduce the lethality of the darts, and where's the fun in that?
Some of the models used plastic, some used aluminum. Steel worked fine until I added just a bit more weight. It's about finding the right weight distribution. 👍
@@WesleyTreat You want the center of the fins (center of moment of inertia) as far behind the center of gravity as possible. Ideally, the entire fin will be behind the center of gravity, because any of the fin that is in front of the center of gravity will try to push the dart away from the line of travel rather than toward it. You can try printing the entire body of the dart and use metal just for the tip and weight at the front.
You got it right with the fins as a complete assembly, but you need to let them slide. I had a couple sets of these growing up and I distinctly remember that the fins were up against the nose when held for throwing but would immediately slide backwards when thrown. In practical terms it is putting the fin stabilization behind the center of gravity where it needs to be acting to keep the rod from tumbling any which way it wants to go. Also I remember the shaft being aluminum with a steel tip to make it as nose heavy as possible. Think of these as mini airplanes that you want to crash. Weight in the middle (at the wing shoulders) and it flies straight. Weight at the back and it wants to keep climbing. Weight at the front and it is going DOWN.
The best Lawn darts was the last generation before they were banned which had fins that were not fixed to the shaft, but slid up and down the shaft and would rotate and spin. You’re close just take the clear vinyl tube off. The fins would act almost as a slide hammer when hitting the ground. The fins would be slid all the way forward, exposing a handle for you to throw with, but then after thrown, the fins would slide completely to the back, giving the best possible flight.
Fun project! What I remember about Jarts is that the fins slid on the shaft. Slide the fins forward to grasp the handle, but when thrown the fins slide back, making the dart super front-heavy as it arcs towards the earth. When it hit the ground, the fins would slide forward hammering the dart home with a satisfying “smack”. Someone also mentioned a lighter material for the shaft which is probably right.
Hey Wesley. First, as soon as you mentioned the “A-Team” theme song in your head it was starting on the Sundance channel. So, I covered my webcam just in case. 😂. Now, I want to thank you for the memories. In retrospect, I can’t believe these things were actually sold and we played with them - and had fun! I think it’s just more proof that our generation was the last of the tough kids. Look what we survived - lead paint, leaded gasoline, drinking from the garden hose mid summer, asbestos laced buildings, LAWN DARTS, waist only seatbelts, Tab, and Disco! 😂. If some of the kids these days had to face just a few of these they’d start posting online, protesting, asking for safe spaces, and calling their therapists. It seems like things got better and the people got worse. Ah, the good ol’ days. 😂 Thanks again for the vid. Enjoyed the walk down memory lane - especially the not getting impaled by a lawn dart part. Troy
Dude. I don't know if you're into vintage science fiction, but I am. I recently built a spinning bookcase for an old science fiction publisher called DAW books. I thought about you during the whole build. This was the first project I've done that had actual signage. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks for being you. Merry Crisis and Happy New Fear!
Just talking to my mom about these(less than 3 weeks ago) and this is amazing! When I get a carbon, I’ll use your link. Thanks for what you do, and powering through. Filming and project-ing is sooo hard to do. Filming when I doesn’t work, not filming when it does… beyond lighting and flow. Anyway, props to you. Thank you
I remember the fins on lawn darts being a *very* flexible type of plastic. Maybe try printing them in TPU? Also, maybe try the central shaft in aluminum to move the center of mass closer to the tip
I thought about TPU as well. Lower probability of breakage. _Note: TPU can be a pain depending on the hardness and the printer. I believe I've heard the Bamboo prints it fairly well. Give yourself some time for test prints and be prepared to slow the print speed._
it's a simple aerodynamics - you need fins as far as possible behind the center of gravity and it's not a toy - they literally used these darts as a weapon in medieval times - called "plumbata"
@@bobweiram6321no peck drilling is a whole different technique. I’m talking about just releasing the pressure for a split second never letting the drill tip leave the material. It will relieve the pressure just enough to break the chip, then continue drilling.
Found an old set of these as a kid, don't know how none of us got injured. We were throwing them from the tops of trees! Wes, I'm sure both of us, despite being a part of different generations, were the type to climb a tree, fall out of the tree, and climb it again 'cause we were curious. Only recently found your channel with the Sputnik build, your enthusiasm for odd projects reminds me of Adam Savage, I dig it, keep up the great work.
If you chuck into the drill press the piece you want to drill into, then grab it with the vise, you can let it go and then chuck in the bit and drill dead center?
I think Lexan/polycarbonate would be a good choice for the fins and you could glue them to a polycarbonate tube. I forget what the glue is called but it basically welds the polycarbonate together.
As a fellow Gen X nerd, I appreciate this video greatly. I also remember being particularly bad at playing with this death toy, and would expect to be not much better today. Happy New Year and thanks for sharing!
awesome video!!!! so, my set was a lot like your final version, minus the vinyl tubing handle. as in, the fin assembly slid around on the shaft freely. holding by the nut at the back the fins would be closer to the tip, and after releasing would go to the back/handle of the jart. and it was really stable in flight. like you want fins or fletchings as far back as possible for the most stability. good luck on your future revisions of this, and thanks for all the awesome content!
I remember playing with lawn darts as a kid. We had a blast. Too bad they’re no longer legal. For some reason I feel like the fins slid up down the shaft. I want to say they weren’t permanently attached. Maybe I just made that up but as I watched your video that thought kept coming to mind. Anyway, maybe I’m out of bounds with that thought or am still reminiscing about my youth. I think it’s awesome you’re working on building them though. Good luck!
I know you said this video was for Gen X, but as a Xennial, I appreciated it just as much! Bringing back old childhood memories. And traumas. RIP Fluffy. LOL.
Fun video! How about adding some "speed holes" in the fins. This will not only cut some weight, but may add just a bit of drag due to the added turbulence. It might just be enough to keep the fins from rotating forward.
Hi Wesley. Hope you are feeling better. Fellow Gen Xer here, who loved every glorious second of that video. Was note for note with you on the A-Team theme. Always played Jarts in the summer at my grandparents. Previous commenter was right about the fins being free to travel on the shaft. Maybe that allowed some spin to get going as well and stabilized the flight? Can't recall with that much specificity. Ran across a set at a thrift store a couple of years ago, and now regret not picking them up even more . Happy New Year!
Other folks have said it as well, but where you threaded the end of the rod, shift that threaded piece before the fins, and add a similar 3D printed female threaded rod and fin setup so it's all only plastic. That'll reduce the tail weight, though may end up with even more fin-splosions.
I grew up building model aircraft and my dad was an aircraft airframe designer - The problem is you've got a shaft thats too heavy (thats what she said!) and having that hevy tip on a wooden dowel shaft would make a massive difference, or juts print the back two thirds. Darts need to be very nose heavy whereas aircraft balance from one third of the way back from the leading edge of the wing.
Thanks for this year's videos, "Happy New Year" - and get well soon! 🙂Suggestion: 3D-print shaft and fins, in one piece, from flexible (PTU) to thread onto the point/weight. Less breakage and less rear weight.
I remember watching blondihacks where she was using super glue for lathe work holding, and found it was significantly weaker when accelerant was used. Not always important, but good to know.
Hey Wesley! Love your videos. I built some with my father-in-law a couple years back. We had similar struggles and realized it was weight distribution from front to back. We kept the weight and tip metal but swapped the shaft out for a carbon fiber rod. It worked great! The nose would drop and it would stick in the ground with a beautiful thud. We also 3D printed the fins to get them as close as we could to the original Jart shape. Made a set of 6 and I built a trashy crate out of an old pallet.
To help reduce (or even eliminate) the fin-splosions with the 3D printed fins, I would suggest looking into using a material called TPU. It is a flexible filament, but when printed mostly solid it will have very little flex to it, while still being incredibly impact resistant and almost indestructible, partially because a significant enough impact will simple cause the fin to bend temporarily, rather than snap.
thank you for bringing back old childhood memories. and I see that yes, now I can see my mothers concern about how dangerous they are, now that im much older (not wiser) I still want a set to play with.
I've still got two complete sets of lawn darts in the shed. One set is fixed wing, similar to what you've made, but the second has a sliding set of fins that fall to the end of the handle while in flight, making them more stable.
That makes me curious how else they're different. Part material. Total weight. Weight distribution/balance point. A statistically significant data set comparing the two dart types in a controlled environment. Project Dart? Dart Test Chann... I've gone to far again, haven't I. 🤪
That's something I'd like to test. Also, you're the first person I've seen who seems to be aware of the different designs. A lot of people are describing how the "originals" were made and assuming the specific ones they grew up with were the originals. 😆
@@WesleyTreat Yeah, everyone is saying the fins slid back and forth, but I'm quite sure on the set I had, the fins were fixed. Clearly there were multiple versions
On the original ones the fins slide up and down the shaft..that makes it fly better i guess and when it lands they act like a ram to make it stick..i played with them as a kid and remember them well..
Hmmm... now I want some of these... Reminds me of the things we used to make when I was a kid that you stuck match heads in, so it would go off with a bang when it hit the ground. True life threatening ingenuity... we also used to set fire to the tennis balls in our tennis ball guns before launch for that extra sizzle. I think it's the extreme risk (of bodily injury, starting a bushfire or burning the house down that makes it fun really. You could cut the steel rod a few centimetres above the weight, cut a thread and thread aluminium tubing on for your handle/fin spline. That would dramatically reduce the weight at the tail, push the centre of gravity forward and make the fins work better I reckon (it also means you could still use most of what you have made). Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I think in addition to the fins needing to be able to slide back and forth on the shaft, they also need to rotate freely. Perhaps try just removing that plastic tubing to allow them to move. I also recall that when we played lawn darts, we arced them higher to allow them to come down more vertically. Great project.
As other have mentioned, I definitely remember my set of lawn darts having the fins sliding along the shaft. I also deeply relate to that coughing session at the end, I've been dealing with pneumonia in december and had to take most of the month off work since my job involves a lot of speaking to clients over the phone.
My thought would be to reduce weight at the top, maybe with heat shrink tubing and a smaller nylon nut. I also think that having the fins detached and free spinning means you lose the control they exert over the rod, a snug or threaded fit might solve that. Maybe try 3d printed ABS. Fun project and have a happy new year of making.
On the originals the fins would spin around, and slide along the shaft for a reason. My thoughts were always that it helped with stability. As well when in flight the fin assembly would slide back putting the center of gravity more forward forcing the dart to pitch down and stick into the ground. Remove the tubing and try again. Wouldn't hurt to put a little bit of that tubing (like 0.25") in front of the fins to prevent them from slamming into the weight in impact. Also while throwing it indoors like that you need thicker material for it to land in to prevent the tip from bouncing off the concrete.
Not all of the originals had sliding fins. There were numerous models. Allowing the fins to slide back can certainly help, but isn't absolutely necessary. The second iteration flew great. It's a matter of weight distribution. As for the foam, the second iteration stuck fine. The foam wasn't the issue.
We used to make something like this as kids in the 1960s. We used a length of wood dowel, a pointed metal weight attached at the front and some cardboard fins at the back. They flew really well. We then introduced launch pads equipped with pieces of bicycle inner-tube to increase the distances. We found that they, counter intuitive, flew more stable and further when fired against the wind.
Brings back memories. The lawn darts I played with the fins moved along the shaft. End of shaft was handle like your design, but in the air the fins slid to the shaft end. Weight distribution shift and stability (less tumbling) from fins all through the arc of underhand throw. Fins could spin on shaft to also help stabilize.
Not to mention the last time she was in his shop, they acted like she just walked in because "you left your door unlocked" (see the "a dumb" counter video). Great unintentional callback at 15:50!
For things like this, I think Polypropylene (PP) filament would be the optimal material. PP is the lightest non foaming filament, extremely impact resistant, good abrasion resistance, as well as excellent layer adhesion. And is also very useful for printing living hinges. One thing to keep in mind though, is that you need to cover the build plate in packing tape (typically made from PP), for proper bed adhesion. PP doesn’t stick to anything else, not even glue, however it sticks remarkably well to PP packing tape.
Try pulling of the rubber tube so the fins slide back during flight. The lawn darts I remember had that feature. Good luck and I hope you give it a try.
I seem to remember that lawn darts or Jarts had a fin set that slid forward and backwards on the shaft. When you tossed them, the fins slid to the furthest back point so it would always land point first. After it landed, the fin set slid down the shaft like a slide hammer to really set it in to whatever or whoever you hit. What a great summer.
Exactly this... the fins were free to slide and rotate on the shaft, which was made of either plastic, or possibly plastic overmolding on a thin metal wire, but either way the shaft was quite lightweight and even a little bit flexible. I remember throwing them very well -- they were so satisfying and so dangerous -- you could hold the back of the rod because the fins were down by the weighted tip, and then when you threw, once they kind of hit the top of their arc, the fins would slide to the back to provide lots more stability. Of course, once they stuck, the fins would slide down and hit the back of the metal weight. I'm not sure they had enough mass to do *much* hammer action, but that was the mechanical design. One thing that made them so *so* dangerous is that they worked much better with a high arc than a low one, so you were incentivized to do the *most* dangerous thing and get a bit of height on your throw. And of course if you were a kid, or an adult with poor decision making skills, you'd start just whipping them to see how high you could get them and have absolutely no idea where they were going to land, which inevitably meant that statistically that would sometimes be on you, your house, your family, your pets, etc.
I came looking for these comments so I could like them. Adding the ability for the fins to slice, when hitting it should allow it to dump some of the energy into setting the dart and the rest allowing the fins to bounce back up as a whole. This should protect them from breaking during proper usage - though if your success rate continues that may only be 16% of the time 🤪
@@WesleyTreat I absolutely love your videos and of course there’s nothing wrong with testing. I am a huge fan of the scientific process and learning from others failures and successes. There are many great ideas out there. Just because they work doesn’t mean we can’t try a different approach. They could always use a little nudge to see if we can make them better. 😬😉💙
I still have a set if you need some specs off them. They are the metal tip/weight with the rest as plastic design. Steel point assembly with a threaded in aluminum handle? aluminum pipe for even less weight? As others have, maybe having the fins slide forward and back? I remember that distinct click clack sound when throwing them. Could tapering the fins or some other design add a bit more drag to the back side which would stabilize the flight a bit more?
Use a wooden dowel for the back half of the shaft, this would shift the centre of gravity towards the point. Also you could try PETg or Nylon filament. These are a little more flexible. Or cut out the fins from a large soda bottle. Those fins would be very flexible and the curve from the soda bottle might help stabilise the dart's flight.
It was 1970 and my buddy and I thought it would be fun if one of us stood in the backyard and the other in front yard of his (single story ranch) house and throw lawn darts over the roof of the house at each other. Luckily, we both survived. I'm currently 62 and this bone-headed memory still gives me goosebumps for its sheer idiocy. Nine-year old boys need constant supervision.
it's all about "center of pressure" and "center of gravity" - the center of pressure is the center of the fins, and center of gravity is where you can balance it on your finger. The further forward you can put the center of gravity, and the further back you can put the center of pressure, the easier the dart will automatically orient to the path of flight. Also it'll help to make the overall distribution of mass as small as possible - so you want to have the mass as concentrated at the front as possible; this reduces the overall "moment of inertia", which makes the dart re-orient even easier.
The montage is exactly what’s missing from TV today. That and the intro montage where you’re psyched when you see a clip in that episode. By the way, look up the full length A-team theme song. It’s much longer….
Hey Wesley, check the center of gravity of the successful Jart vs the printed one. Shifting the printed fin a little more forward or backward to match should fix the flight path. And I would try a hard tpu filament for better durability.
A good idea I read was to use a fiberglass rod like a driveway marker, you can also buy fiberglass rebar that may be a light weight solution to the metal shaft.
You could try to introduce some drag on the ends of the fin to help keep the nose pointing forward. Think about the air breaks on a plane when it's landing, just enough to create some lift. I only say this since you are 3D printing them anyways its easy to add and see if it helps at all.
We were at a picnic across the street in about '77 or so and one of the twin daughters that lived there took a Jart right through her foot. Their dad was a local fire chief. The 70s were awesome. The originals had the fins as a molded piece that loosely fit around the shaft with about a 4-5" piece of separate black tubing above it and an acorn nut at the top. All of those pieces were free rotating. If you threw them overhand, you could get a good 30-40 yard throw.
We had the Franklin Yard Darts with the sliding fins in the late 70’s early 80’s. Hit the ground with a click as the fin hit the brass weight when it hit the ground. Fun stuff.
I have a set in front of me, so here are my observations: The entire metal core - tip to tail - is magnetic, so it's made of steel. It seems to be tack-welded together. - tip: blunt 6mm dia. 47mm long - weight: 18mm dia. 53mm long. Slight chamfer on the front end. - tail: 4mm dia. 222mm long. Threaded at tail end. - plastic outer sheath: 125mm long. Leaves about 7mm for the plastic cap nut to thread onto. - fins: (one piece) 8mm inner dia, 12cm long hollow core. Fins extend about 4cm beyond this. Unit slides up and down the shaft up to 12cm and rotate freely. My set says "patent pending" so it could be an earlier version.
The ones I played with as a kid were shaped a bit different. The fins didn't stick out as far, but were longer and "raked back" more towards the handle. I am pretty shocked that ANY of the 3D prints held up at all.
Some of the lawn dart models had sliding fins, but not all. My second iteration didn't have sliding fins and it flew perfectly. It's more about weight distribution.
Seems like maybe too much weight in the handle area causing it to carry too much momentum when the tip hits. Also, I think the dart / sharp area might need to be a little longer. Awesome video by the way! Lots of good laughs!
get some washers that fit the rod and put them between the tip and the fins, you should be able to adjust the weight to get them to fly right by adding and removing washers. You can trim the tube on the back for a tight fit.
You want the center of gravity to be shifted as far forward as possible. Try an alumium rod and a steel point, held together by a weighted collar using set screws. You could even use a carbon fibre rod for more weight savings on the back end of the dart :D
I still have my Yard Darts. The fins move in flight. They slide on the shaft. They slide forward to give you access to the shaft to use like a handle. In flight they slide all the way back for better flight control. When it lands they slam forward to the weighted tip
I think that there’s too much weight in the rear, try to get rid of the rod out of the back amuse a lighter material. Now I want to make some. Happy new year.
Perhaps using lead shot for head weight. Or cast a lead into a cylinder. I would suggest print the fins in separate parts. Fins flat so the layers are perpendicular to force. And then notch the shaft part to receive them. That would allow crazy thin fins to reduce weight.
I used to own some land darts. I could be wrong but I remember the fins on the darts would ride up and down on the shaft. So it was a slightly loose fit so it can go up and down and shaft and spin as well . shaft. Maybe give that a try.
You are more happy with those sticks in testing than anyone playing the original ones (at least in my experience of playing it, lol. As long as you are only counting the way they were 'supposed' to be used/played, lol)
For those without 3d printers, the safety versions sold now are the same fins as the originals And they fit a 5/16” shaft, aluminum for less back end weight The tumble comes from that solid steel shaft, no time to straighten out I’ve made dozens over the years
"I think it needs sharping!" are word that every aeronautical engineer uses in the development phase. Since I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express, I'm qualified to welcome you to the engineering world, Congrats Wesley!
† _More people (including myself) watch content on a toilet seat than in an armchair. We ride the Dunning-Kruger effect to the Peak of Mount Stupid. It's best to simply acknowledge that fact, recognize we're have only a superficial understanding, and poke a little fun at ourselves while doing it._
Though I never saw them for sale in the UK, I remember my Dad having a set in the garage. We'd take them over the local playing field and we always threw them like a regular dart!
Just for a simple beta test with no need to make anything, I’d first try a little super glue to hold the fin assembly and remove the nut and tubing from the “handle”. If you see any flight improvement then you can go forward from there. I agree with many others in general about the metal rod of the fin/handle. Maybe try a smaller diameter to reduce weight more. If sticking with a metal rod you can always weld/solder very thin sheet metal wings for sturdiness as another option to reduce breakage. You can always bend or hammer back into shape if needed. You can also add some twist/curvature to create spin? You’d have to play with weight but it’s an option to throw at the wall and see what happens. Without the ability to injection mold more durable options I think it’s always going to need to be your own version rather than a 1 to 1 replication.
I remember those lawn darts. Don’t think my parents bought us them. We played croquet, badminton 🏸 and other exciting games lol. Happy New Year !! Wes thanks for making our year better. I love it sawing noises < insert tie fighter here > lol
On the original jarts the handle shaft is thinner than the nose tip, if you didn’t run the tip through the weighted end. But used smaller diameter rod on the handle, it should adjust the balance. The fins attached to a sleeve that slid on the handle, like a thin diameter plastic tube. This allowed them to spin and slide a bit, so they didn’t take the force of the impact.
I'm sure someone has suggested this already, but I remember the entire part behind the weight being plastic. That screwed into the metal tip. That would put the weight more toward the tip as the rod is just plastic.
Take off the vinyl tube. You can put a small ring of it between the flight and the back of the point, to act as cushioning when the flight moves forward after impact. Long dart while it is flying will be easier to keep on target.
What I remember about Jarts is that the fins slid on the shaft. Slide the fins forward to expose the handle for throwing, but then when thrown the fins slide to the back of the shaft. At that point it is extra front-heavy, so the tip drives the dart down to earth. When it hits the ground, the fins slide down the shaft hammering the tip home with a satisfying “smack” sound.
Yes! This.
Agree....I came here to say this. I also believe the fins sliding backward would create more "tail drag", that with having the weight at the top would keep it flying straighter with less tumbling
While I agree that the original Jarts were made that way, that would create a bigger problem on Wes's current design. The CG needs to be closer to the tip for stable flight, and having the (relatively) heavy 3D printed fins slide backwards in flight will actually move the CG in the wrong direction. A sliding fin design would work, but you would need even more mass at the tip to compensate so the CG remains far enough forward even when the mass of the fins is furthest back.
+1. You need the fins to slide to the tail end.
I was thinking the same thing
I had a set of these as a kid in the early 80's. My set had a metallic tip, and the entire fin section was injection-molded plastic. There was no metal rod (or any metal) rear of the tip. This put the center of gravity near the tip of the darts, meaning that they tended to stay pointing tip-forwards. I'm wondering if the CG of your darts is too far rearward, making them "tumble" through the air instead of pointing in the correct direction. Great video. This brought back some good memories.
Yeah they were an injection molded dart with a cast metal tip. I do remember some having metal up the center but it was like an eight inch threaded rod with an acorn nut on the back end, not a quarter inch steel rod.
Being an engineer in aerospace (retired) for almost the last 20 years, I can confirm that your center of gravity is way too far toward the back of the dart. Moving the CG can be done by making the tip heavier or moving the fins closer to the front. You are not really building a plane or a rocket but more like a ballistic missile. Once it gets to it’s apex the dy is zero and starts to go negative. At that point the acceleration of gravity takes over in the opposite direction. In order to have is ‘stick’ at the point desired, the dx has to be almost zero and dy still needs to have some significant component so as to drive the ‘point’ into the ground. Testing can be done with a pair of small scales and a consistent location point. However, you method is much more fun. Hope that helps.
Watch some videos of people testing model rocket stability. you can actually perform a swing test where you tie a string to the dart at the center of gravity and then swing it in circles. If the dart orients itself in the air with the nose pointing forward, you know you have a stable design. That way, you should know before you ever throw one that it will be stable in flight.
From what I can see between the second (successful) and third version is not necessarily the overall increased mass, but the fact that all the newly added mass was in the back, pushing the center of gravity towards the back and rendering it unstable. Two ways to fix that are to either lighten the fins, or increase the size of the weighted mass at the front.
"I can feel the rejection coming from it already"😅, Thank goodness for the Bomba socks
OK, noted. Bombs socks and slippers are NOT rated for weld splatter.
Wes is great, If he's not teaching you something, He's making you laugh, Usually both
The big problem with the design (which still exists) is making the handle end out of metal. The originals had the rear end of the dart made from light weight plastic. The weight of the metal causes 2 problems.
- First it moves the center of gravity rearward so the fins have less stabilizing force so it won't stabilize as fast.
- Second the extra mass gives it more rotational inertia. When you release the dart it is rotating and that rotation must be stopped so less mass would make it stabilize much faster.
Make the rod out of wood or plastic for everything past the big weight. It will immediately work perfectly. You could also reduce the size of the big weight if you make that change. Reducing the mass a little bit will probably make it stabilize faster too.
This is my theory as well. The disadvantage of making everything aft of the point out of lightweight materials is that it will reduce the lethality of the darts, and where's the fun in that?
Was going to suggest the same thing. Less steel in the back 2/3 of the dart, keep the weight up front.
Some of the models used plastic, some used aluminum. Steel worked fine until I added just a bit more weight. It's about finding the right weight distribution. 👍
@@WesleyTreat You want the center of the fins (center of moment of inertia) as far behind the center of gravity as possible. Ideally, the entire fin will be behind the center of gravity, because any of the fin that is in front of the center of gravity will try to push the dart away from the line of travel rather than toward it.
You can try printing the entire body of the dart and use metal just for the tip and weight at the front.
My cousin still has a set.
The fins and handle are all plastic. The only metal is the weighted tip.
You got it right with the fins as a complete assembly, but you need to let them slide. I had a couple sets of these growing up and I distinctly remember that the fins were up against the nose when held for throwing but would immediately slide backwards when thrown. In practical terms it is putting the fin stabilization behind the center of gravity where it needs to be acting to keep the rod from tumbling any which way it wants to go. Also I remember the shaft being aluminum with a steel tip to make it as nose heavy as possible. Think of these as mini airplanes that you want to crash. Weight in the middle (at the wing shoulders) and it flies straight. Weight at the back and it wants to keep climbing. Weight at the front and it is going DOWN.
The best Lawn darts was the last generation before they were banned which had fins that were not fixed to the shaft, but slid up and down the shaft and would rotate and spin. You’re close just take the clear vinyl tube off. The fins would act almost as a slide hammer when hitting the ground. The fins would be slid all the way forward, exposing a handle for you to throw with, but then after thrown, the fins would slide completely to the back, giving the best possible flight.
You're describing Jart "Sliders" 👍
Fins printed in TPU would be virtually indestructible
I wanted to suggest PETG, but TPU might actually be better
Fun project! What I remember about Jarts is that the fins slid on the shaft. Slide the fins forward to grasp the handle, but when thrown the fins slide back, making the dart super front-heavy as it arcs towards the earth. When it hit the ground, the fins would slide forward hammering the dart home with a satisfying “smack”. Someone also mentioned a lighter material for the shaft which is probably right.
Thanks for all your hard work on projects and videos. I enjoy them no matter the subject. Have an awesome new year!
Thank you!
Hey Wesley. First, as soon as you mentioned the “A-Team” theme song in your head it was starting on the Sundance channel. So, I covered my webcam just in case. 😂. Now, I want to thank you for the memories. In retrospect, I can’t believe these things were actually sold and we played with them - and had fun! I think it’s just more proof that our generation was the last of the tough kids. Look what we survived - lead paint, leaded gasoline, drinking from the garden hose mid summer, asbestos laced buildings, LAWN DARTS, waist only seatbelts, Tab, and Disco! 😂. If some of the kids these days had to face just a few of these they’d start posting online, protesting, asking for safe spaces, and calling their therapists. It seems like things got better and the people got worse. Ah, the good ol’ days. 😂 Thanks again for the vid. Enjoyed the walk down memory lane - especially the not getting impaled by a lawn dart part. Troy
Dude. I don't know if you're into vintage science fiction, but I am. I recently built a spinning bookcase for an old science fiction publisher called DAW books. I thought about you during the whole build. This was the first project I've done that had actual signage. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks for being you. Merry Crisis and Happy New Fear!
"Merry Crisis and Happy New Fear!"
* dies a little inside *
Way to end the year with a fun, nostalgic video. Thanks and Happy New Year!
Just talking to my mom about these(less than 3 weeks ago) and this is amazing! When I get a carbon, I’ll use your link. Thanks for what you do, and powering through. Filming and project-ing is sooo hard to do. Filming when I doesn’t work, not filming when it does… beyond lighting and flow. Anyway, props to you. Thank you
Yay - project for tomorrow. Love your work and style … Happy New Year and that’s for all the amazing videos and inspiration !!
I remember the fins on lawn darts being a *very* flexible type of plastic. Maybe try printing them in TPU?
Also, maybe try the central shaft in aluminum to move the center of mass closer to the tip
I thought about TPU as well. Lower probability of breakage.
_Note: TPU can be a pain depending on the hardness and the printer. I believe I've heard the Bamboo prints it fairly well. Give yourself some time for test prints and be prepared to slow the print speed._
it's a simple aerodynamics - you need fins as far as possible behind the center of gravity
and it's not a toy - they literally used these darts as a weapon in medieval times - called "plumbata"
Machinist tip for you- pump the quill on your drill press, letting off the pressure will break the chip and avoid the birds nest.
I think you mean peck drilling.
@@bobweiram6321no peck drilling is a whole different technique. I’m talking about just releasing the pressure for a split second never letting the drill tip leave the material. It will relieve the pressure just enough to break the chip, then continue drilling.
Found an old set of these as a kid, don't know how none of us got injured. We were throwing them from the tops of trees!
Wes, I'm sure both of us, despite being a part of different generations, were the type to climb a tree, fall out of the tree, and climb it again 'cause we were curious. Only recently found your channel with the Sputnik build, your enthusiasm for odd projects reminds me of Adam Savage, I dig it, keep up the great work.
I’m so happy I stumbled upon your giant frozen Wesley Treat video a while back. Love your style and attitude!
🎯🎯 Awesome build! Nice save with the TotalBond tip and exacto knife!
If you chuck into the drill press the piece you want to drill into, then grab it with the vise, you can let it go and then chuck in the bit and drill dead center?
I think Lexan/polycarbonate would be a good choice for the fins and you could glue them to a polycarbonate tube. I forget what the glue is called but it basically welds the polycarbonate together.
As a fellow Gen X nerd, I appreciate this video greatly. I also remember being particularly bad at playing with this death toy, and would expect to be not much better today. Happy New Year and thanks for sharing!
awesome video!!!! so, my set was a lot like your final version, minus the vinyl tubing handle. as in, the fin assembly slid around on the shaft freely. holding by the nut at the back the fins would be closer to the tip, and after releasing would go to the back/handle of the jart. and it was really stable in flight. like you want fins or fletchings as far back as possible for the most stability.
good luck on your future revisions of this, and thanks for all the awesome content!
I remember playing with lawn darts as a kid. We had a blast. Too bad they’re no longer legal.
For some reason I feel like the fins slid up down the shaft. I want to say they weren’t permanently attached. Maybe I just made that up but as I watched your video that thought kept coming to mind.
Anyway, maybe I’m out of bounds with that thought or am still reminiscing about my youth.
I think it’s awesome you’re working on building them though. Good luck!
honesty is the best part of your videos! never loose that
I know you said this video was for Gen X, but as a Xennial, I appreciated it just as much! Bringing back old childhood memories. And traumas. RIP Fluffy. LOL.
Fun video! How about adding some "speed holes" in the fins. This will not only cut some weight, but may add just a bit of drag due to the added turbulence. It might just be enough to keep the fins from rotating forward.
Interesting idea. I am not qualified to weigh in on whether or not that would work, but with a 3d printer it would be easy to test!
That's actually on my list of things to test. Holes in the fins to lessen weight and create drag.
Hi Wesley. Hope you are feeling better. Fellow Gen Xer here, who loved every glorious second of that video. Was note for note with you on the A-Team theme. Always played Jarts in the summer at my grandparents. Previous commenter was right about the fins being free to travel on the shaft. Maybe that allowed some spin to get going as well and stabilized the flight? Can't recall with that much specificity. Ran across a set at a thrift store a couple of years ago, and now regret not picking them up even more . Happy New Year!
This was a fun video! Happy New Years, Wes!
Thanks!
Other folks have said it as well, but where you threaded the end of the rod, shift that threaded piece before the fins, and add a similar 3D printed female threaded rod and fin setup so it's all only plastic. That'll reduce the tail weight, though may end up with even more fin-splosions.
I grew up building model aircraft and my dad was an aircraft airframe designer - The problem is you've got a shaft thats too heavy (thats what she said!) and having that hevy tip on a wooden dowel shaft would make a massive difference, or juts print the back two thirds. Darts need to be very nose heavy whereas aircraft balance from one third of the way back from the leading edge of the wing.
We had a set when I was a kid. As I recall, the key to getting a good stick is to throw in a high arc.
Thanks for this year's videos, "Happy New Year" - and get well soon! 🙂Suggestion: 3D-print shaft and fins, in one piece, from flexible (PTU) to thread onto the point/weight. Less breakage and less rear weight.
I remember watching blondihacks where she was using super glue for lathe work holding, and found it was significantly weaker when accelerant was used. Not always important, but good to know.
A firm TPU (like TPU for AMS) might be good for the fin assembly. Very resilient.
Hey Wesley!
Love your videos.
I built some with my father-in-law a couple years back.
We had similar struggles and realized it was weight distribution from front to back.
We kept the weight and tip metal but swapped the shaft out for a carbon fiber rod.
It worked great!
The nose would drop and it would stick in the ground with a beautiful thud.
We also 3D printed the fins to get them as close as we could to the original Jart shape.
Made a set of 6 and I built a trashy crate out of an old pallet.
To help reduce (or even eliminate) the fin-splosions with the 3D printed fins, I would suggest looking into using a material called TPU. It is a flexible filament, but when printed mostly solid it will have very little flex to it, while still being incredibly impact resistant and almost indestructible, partially because a significant enough impact will simple cause the fin to bend temporarily, rather than snap.
I had ordered some TPU to try out, but I ran out of time.
thank you for bringing back old childhood memories. and I see that yes, now I can see my mothers concern about how dangerous they are, now that im much older (not wiser) I still want a set to play with.
I've still got two complete sets of lawn darts in the shed. One set is fixed wing, similar to what you've made, but the second has a sliding set of fins that fall to the end of the handle while in flight, making them more stable.
That makes me curious how else they're different. Part material. Total weight. Weight distribution/balance point. A statistically significant data set comparing the two dart types in a controlled environment. Project Dart? Dart Test Chann...
I've gone to far again, haven't I. 🤪
@@Xaqaria You should talk to this guy: tinyurl.com/5ydsvpja
That's something I'd like to test. Also, you're the first person I've seen who seems to be aware of the different designs. A lot of people are describing how the "originals" were made and assuming the specific ones they grew up with were the originals. 😆
@@WesleyTreat Yeah, everyone is saying the fins slid back and forth, but I'm quite sure on the set I had, the fins were fixed. Clearly there were multiple versions
On the original ones the fins slide up and down the shaft..that makes it fly better i guess and when it lands they act like a ram to make it stick..i played with them as a kid and remember them well..
Some of them had sliding fins, that's right. Some had a solid plastic handle/fin assembly.
Hmmm... now I want some of these... Reminds me of the things we used to make when I was a kid that you stuck match heads in, so it would go off with a bang when it hit the ground. True life threatening ingenuity... we also used to set fire to the tennis balls in our tennis ball guns before launch for that extra sizzle. I think it's the extreme risk (of bodily injury, starting a bushfire or burning the house down that makes it fun really. You could cut the steel rod a few centimetres above the weight, cut a thread and thread aluminium tubing on for your handle/fin spline. That would dramatically reduce the weight at the tail, push the centre of gravity forward and make the fins work better I reckon (it also means you could still use most of what you have made). Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I think in addition to the fins needing to be able to slide back and forth on the shaft, they also need to rotate freely. Perhaps try just removing that plastic tubing to allow them to move. I also recall that when we played lawn darts, we arced them higher to allow them to come down more vertically. Great project.
As other have mentioned, I definitely remember my set of lawn darts having the fins sliding along the shaft.
I also deeply relate to that coughing session at the end, I've been dealing with pneumonia in december and had to take most of the month off work since my job involves a lot of speaking to clients over the phone.
My thought would be to reduce weight at the top, maybe with heat shrink tubing and a smaller nylon nut. I also think that having the fins detached and free spinning means you lose the control they exert over the rod, a snug or threaded fit might solve that. Maybe try 3d printed ABS. Fun project and have a happy new year of making.
Happy New Year, Wesley! Rest up!
Excellent film. Fun project. Mahalo for sharing. ❤
On the originals the fins would spin around, and slide along the shaft for a reason. My thoughts were always that it helped with stability. As well when in flight the fin assembly would slide back putting the center of gravity more forward forcing the dart to pitch down and stick into the ground. Remove the tubing and try again. Wouldn't hurt to put a little bit of that tubing (like 0.25") in front of the fins to prevent them from slamming into the weight in impact. Also while throwing it indoors like that you need thicker material for it to land in to prevent the tip from bouncing off the concrete.
Not all of the originals had sliding fins. There were numerous models. Allowing the fins to slide back can certainly help, but isn't absolutely necessary. The second iteration flew great. It's a matter of weight distribution.
As for the foam, the second iteration stuck fine. The foam wasn't the issue.
We used to make something like this as kids in the 1960s. We used a length of wood dowel, a pointed metal weight attached at the front and some cardboard fins at the back. They flew really well. We then introduced launch pads equipped with pieces of bicycle inner-tube to increase the distances. We found that they, counter intuitive, flew more stable and further when fired against the wind.
Happy new year 🎉 and get well soon 😊
6:36 😂😂😂😂 the pulp fiction Travolta 😂😂
Brings back memories. The lawn darts I played with the fins moved along the shaft. End of shaft was handle like your design, but in the air the fins slid to the shaft end. Weight distribution shift and stability (less tumbling) from fins all through the arc of underhand throw. Fins could spin on shaft to also help stabilize.
Xyla Foxlin collaboration! She does great model rockets and knows all about fins and the right way to attach them!
Not to mention the last time she was in his shop, they acted like she just walked in because "you left your door unlocked" (see the "a dumb" counter video). Great unintentional callback at 15:50!
For things like this, I think Polypropylene (PP) filament would be the optimal material.
PP is the lightest non foaming filament, extremely impact resistant, good abrasion resistance, as well as excellent layer adhesion. And is also very useful for printing living hinges.
One thing to keep in mind though, is that you need to cover the build plate in packing tape (typically made from PP), for proper bed adhesion. PP doesn’t stick to anything else, not even glue, however it sticks remarkably well to PP packing tape.
Try pulling of the rubber tube so the fins slide back during flight. The lawn darts I remember had that feature. Good luck and I hope you give it a try.
I remember the fins sliding down the shaft. So it would change the center of gravity after you threw it. Helped push the nose down.
I seem to remember that lawn darts or Jarts had a fin set that slid forward and backwards on the shaft. When you tossed them, the fins slid to the furthest back point so it would always land point first. After it landed, the fin set slid down the shaft like a slide hammer to really set it in to whatever or whoever you hit.
What a great summer.
Exactly this... the fins were free to slide and rotate on the shaft, which was made of either plastic, or possibly plastic overmolding on a thin metal wire, but either way the shaft was quite lightweight and even a little bit flexible. I remember throwing them very well -- they were so satisfying and so dangerous -- you could hold the back of the rod because the fins were down by the weighted tip, and then when you threw, once they kind of hit the top of their arc, the fins would slide to the back to provide lots more stability. Of course, once they stuck, the fins would slide down and hit the back of the metal weight. I'm not sure they had enough mass to do *much* hammer action, but that was the mechanical design.
One thing that made them so *so* dangerous is that they worked much better with a high arc than a low one, so you were incentivized to do the *most* dangerous thing and get a bit of height on your throw. And of course if you were a kid, or an adult with poor decision making skills, you'd start just whipping them to see how high you could get them and have absolutely no idea where they were going to land, which inevitably meant that statistically that would sometimes be on you, your house, your family, your pets, etc.
I came looking for these comments so I could like them.
Adding the ability for the fins to slice, when hitting it should allow it to dump some of the energy into setting the dart and the rest allowing the fins to bounce back up as a whole. This should protect them from breaking during proper usage - though if your success rate continues that may only be 16% of the time 🤪
Some models certainly did, yes. Notably the Jart "Sliders." Many did not, though. It's something worth testing.
@@WesleyTreat I absolutely love your videos and of course there’s nothing wrong with testing. I am a huge fan of the scientific process and learning from others failures and successes. There are many great ideas out there. Just because they work doesn’t mean we can’t try a different approach. They could always use a little nudge to see if we can make them better.
😬😉💙
I still have a set if you need some specs off them. They are the metal tip/weight with the rest as plastic design. Steel point assembly with a threaded in aluminum handle? aluminum pipe for even less weight? As others have, maybe having the fins slide forward and back? I remember that distinct click clack sound when throwing them. Could tapering the fins or some other design add a bit more drag to the back side which would stabilize the flight a bit more?
I love it when a plan (almost) comes together.
Use a wooden dowel for the back half of the shaft, this would shift the centre of gravity towards the point.
Also you could try PETg or Nylon filament. These are a little more flexible. Or cut out the fins from a large soda bottle. Those fins would be very flexible and the curve from the soda bottle might help stabilise the dart's flight.
It was 1970 and my buddy and I thought it would be fun if one of us stood in the backyard and the other in front yard of his (single story ranch) house and throw lawn darts over the roof of the house at each other. Luckily, we both survived. I'm currently 62 and this bone-headed memory still gives me goosebumps for its sheer idiocy. Nine-year old boys need constant supervision.
0:27 “put on the back burner for a couple of weeks… several years ago”
I’m feeling called out.
it's all about "center of pressure" and "center of gravity" - the center of pressure is the center of the fins, and center of gravity is where you can balance it on your finger. The further forward you can put the center of gravity, and the further back you can put the center of pressure, the easier the dart will automatically orient to the path of flight. Also it'll help to make the overall distribution of mass as small as possible - so you want to have the mass as concentrated at the front as possible; this reduces the overall "moment of inertia", which makes the dart re-orient even easier.
The montage is exactly what’s missing from TV today. That and the intro montage where you’re psyched when you see a clip in that episode. By the way, look up the full length A-team theme song. It’s much longer….
Hey Wesley, check the center of gravity of the successful Jart vs the printed one. Shifting the printed fin a little more forward or backward to match should fix the flight path. And I would try a hard tpu filament for better durability.
All I can suggest is try putting some of that tubing in front of your fin assembly and see if pushing the drag backwards helps.
Between this video, the sputnik, and the Vandergriff Park rocket gym you're rebuilding my childhood.
I would definitely recommend printing the fins from a higher shore hardness TPU as well, give them some flex.
A good idea I read was to use a fiberglass rod like a driveway marker, you can also buy fiberglass rebar that may be a light weight solution to the metal shaft.
You could try to introduce some drag on the ends of the fin to help keep the nose pointing forward. Think about the air breaks on a plane when it's landing, just enough to create some lift. I only say this since you are 3D printing them anyways its easy to add and see if it helps at all.
You could 3D print the fins out of TPU (in one piece), that would never break
We were at a picnic across the street in about '77 or so and one of the twin daughters that lived there took a Jart right through her foot. Their dad was a local fire chief. The 70s were awesome. The originals had the fins as a molded piece that loosely fit around the shaft with about a 4-5" piece of separate black tubing above it and an acorn nut at the top. All of those pieces were free rotating. If you threw them overhand, you could get a good 30-40 yard throw.
We had the Franklin Yard Darts with the sliding fins in the late 70’s early 80’s. Hit the ground with a click as the fin hit the brass weight when it hit the ground. Fun stuff.
I have a set in front of me, so here are my observations: The entire metal core - tip to tail - is magnetic, so it's made of steel. It seems to be tack-welded together.
- tip: blunt 6mm dia. 47mm long
- weight: 18mm dia. 53mm long. Slight chamfer on the front end.
- tail: 4mm dia. 222mm long. Threaded at tail end.
- plastic outer sheath: 125mm long. Leaves about 7mm for the plastic cap nut to thread onto.
- fins: (one piece) 8mm inner dia, 12cm long hollow core. Fins extend about 4cm beyond this. Unit slides up and down the shaft up to 12cm and rotate freely.
My set says "patent pending" so it could be an earlier version.
The ones I played with as a kid were shaped a bit different. The fins didn't stick out as far, but were longer and "raked back" more towards the handle. I am pretty shocked that ANY of the 3D prints held up at all.
it's the plastic tube you put on the rear. The original fins were able to slide as you throw them
Some of the lawn dart models had sliding fins, but not all. My second iteration didn't have sliding fins and it flew perfectly. It's more about weight distribution.
Seems like maybe too much weight in the handle area causing it to carry too much momentum when the tip hits. Also, I think the dart / sharp area might need to be a little longer.
Awesome video by the way! Lots of good laughs!
Thanks! Yep, I cover that at the very end.
“I can feel the rejection coming from it already”.
I’ve been there too 😂
get some washers that fit the rod and put them between the tip and the fins, you should be able to adjust the weight to get them to fly right by adding and removing washers. You can trim the tube on the back for a tight fit.
Darts need to be pretty heavy on the tip, and super light on the tail. That's how they stabilize quickly in the air.
Yep!
You want the center of gravity to be shifted as far forward as possible. Try an alumium rod and a steel point, held together by a weighted collar using set screws. You could even use a carbon fibre rod for more weight savings on the back end of the dart :D
I still have a set of these, I think I’m saving them for a special occasion 😂
Thanks for all the great videos
Try moving the tube underneath the fin. I think the issue is related to fin placement. Thanks for the video, love your work!
I still have my Yard Darts. The fins move in flight. They slide on the shaft. They slide forward to give you access to the shaft to use like a handle. In flight they slide all the way back for better flight control. When it lands they slam forward to the weighted tip
I think that there’s too much weight in the rear, try to get rid of the rod out of the back amuse a lighter material. Now I want to make some. Happy new year.
Perhaps using lead shot for head weight. Or cast a lead into a cylinder. I would suggest print the fins in separate parts. Fins flat so the layers are perpendicular to force. And then notch the shaft part to receive them. That would allow crazy thin fins to reduce weight.
I used to own some land darts. I could be wrong but I remember the fins on the darts would ride up and down on the shaft. So it was a slightly loose fit so it can go up and down and shaft and spin as well . shaft. Maybe give that a try.
You are more happy with those sticks in testing than anyone playing the original ones (at least in my experience of playing it, lol. As long as you are only counting the way they were 'supposed' to be used/played, lol)
For those without 3d printers, the safety versions sold now are the same fins as the originals
And they fit a 5/16” shaft, aluminum for less back end weight
The tumble comes from that solid steel shaft, no time to straighten out
I’ve made dozens over the years
Thinner rod in the handle part and nylon bolt should do the trick
"I think it needs sharping!" are word that every aeronautical engineer uses in the development phase. Since I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express, I'm qualified to welcome you to the engineering world, Congrats Wesley!
Hey! I'm an -armchair- *toilet seat†* engineer! I welcome you, too.
† _More people (including myself) watch content on a toilet seat than in an armchair. We ride the Dunning-Kruger effect to the Peak of Mount Stupid. It's best to simply acknowledge that fact, recognize we're have only a superficial understanding, and poke a little fun at ourselves while doing it._
Though I never saw them for sale in the UK, I remember my Dad having a set in the garage. We'd take them over the local playing field and we always threw them like a regular dart!
Just for a simple beta test with no need to make anything, I’d first try a little super glue to hold the fin assembly and remove the nut and tubing from the “handle”. If you see any flight improvement then you can go forward from there. I agree with many others in general about the metal rod of the fin/handle. Maybe try a smaller diameter to reduce weight more. If sticking with a metal rod you can always weld/solder very thin sheet metal wings for sturdiness as another option to reduce breakage. You can always bend or hammer back into shape if needed. You can also add some twist/curvature to create spin? You’d have to play with weight but it’s an option to throw at the wall and see what happens. Without the ability to injection mold more durable options I think it’s always going to need to be your own version rather than a 1 to 1 replication.
I remember those lawn darts. Don’t think my parents bought us them. We played croquet, badminton 🏸 and other exciting games lol. Happy New Year !! Wes thanks for making our year better. I love it sawing noises < insert tie fighter here > lol
Brings back cherished memories for this GenXer! Thanks!
On the original jarts the handle shaft is thinner than the nose tip, if you didn’t run the tip through the weighted end. But used smaller diameter rod on the handle, it should adjust the balance. The fins attached to a sleeve that slid on the handle, like a thin diameter plastic tube. This allowed them to spin and slide a bit, so they didn’t take the force of the impact.
Recommend a disclaimer on the next in series: "No siblings were punctured in the making of this film." Unless, of course, some were!
I'm sure someone has suggested this already, but I remember the entire part behind the weight being plastic. That screwed into the metal tip. That would put the weight more toward the tip as the rod is just plastic.
Take off the vinyl tube. You can put a small ring of it between the flight and the back of the point, to act as cushioning when the flight moves forward after impact. Long dart while it is flying will be easier to keep on target.