I'm only 99% certain at this exact moment, because it's been awhile since I've done this, that the shear key sits on it's wedge at a specific distance from the cam seal. So it wedges itself on there when you tighten it down, but it can't touch the cam seal.
The outer one? Absolutely 150% will cause major problems. That outer washer is what keeps the shear key in place. If I believe we are talking about the same one. Is this the washer on the crank bolt? Or between the crank pulley and the crank sprocket ?
@@11fulstrum I forgot to install the washer that goes between the crank pulley and crank sprocket. I'm boosted and been like this for 200 miles. What is the worst that could happen?
So i know a lot of people would disagree with this, but currently the entire Head itself is a stock, rebuilt d16y7. OEM everything, including Cam. Why? because my intent here is to build the entire bottom end to the highest performance i can, and then actually run documented tests on this set up to see what a factory head can handle, before it breaks itself. Doing it this way means that the only parts that can/should break are in the head, and a head swap is way less work than coming back around to upgrading the bottom end. In the future, i aim to run a port and polish D16Y8 head (with vtec) as I'm very curious about building a stupid powerful track engine, that with the flip of a switch basically turns it back in to a gas saver daily driver (think complete turbo bypass valve, vtec set to low cam profile, ecu tune and map switch to low fuel mode, etc). As for the throttle body, im running a genuine skunk2 70mm throttle body mounted to a skunk2 Intake Manifold, where the IM only had the factory 60mm TB opening, so i had to grind and polish that open to match the TB 70mm.
Kevin, unfortunately there is no safe way to do that. Meaning that you could try, by loosening the tension from the tensioner, and trying to slide the gear out from the belt and the new one on trying to not let the belt slide at all. However, I think what you are asking is if there is a way to only pull the top timing cover off, and pop the gear out and new one in. If my assumption is correct, then that would be a no. There would be no way to get the old cam off and the new one on without letting the tension out of the belt from the tensioner, which you can only access with the lower cover off. Hypothetically, it is POSSIBLE, but you would never be able to effectively verify that the lower and upper timing marks are aligned properly. It will take less time and energy to just swap the gear by doing a normal timing belt change procedure than trying to find a way to avoid all that.
@Mason Roberts thank you for explaining that. I tried to do it the way I asked, and the tension spring ended up snapping. I ended up doing a timing belt water pump kit and refreshing everything today.
@@kevincrawford6864 well im glad you managed to get it done either way. It defeintly took me a few times myself to figure out that there really isnt a "faster" or "better" way to get it done without just doing the whole belt procedure. Hope it all turned out good and good luck on the next one. 🙂
So the engine builder put the wrong tensioner until I get a new one, I loosen the wrong tensioner do I have to adjust valve slash again ? Even thou the builder did timing some sort of and valve adjustment
No. You don't need to do valve lash again. The reasoning behind having the timing system on before you do valve lash is so that there is resistive force holding the cam shaft in place while you work on the valves. If you did it without the timing on, there is always the chance the cam shaft will rotate ever so slightly and your lash distance will be set incorrectly.
@@11fulstrum ahh I see ok cool thank you for the help just to get oil pump times I need TDC cylinder 1 which I did and now only back three teethes and than put tension on the belt and should be good
YCP Vitara Pistons with Eagle H-Beam Rods. Specifically the no notch long rods. Supposed to up dcomp ratio to around 8.3 over the normal 7.8 I believe. That or you can get normal long rods and notch the bottom of the block so they clear the edges of the cylinder.
What cam are you running? I'm building a y7 turbo very similar, and I was trying to see if advancing or retarding the cam one tooth would be beneficial, or if I should just keep it at zero.
Currently I left it as factory Cam. The intent with this build was always to build up the bottom end so I don't have to worry about it, but then run OEM head and cam to see what they can actually handle. I've seen claims over the years up and down the forums, but I just wanted to test it myself. You should keep it at zero until you can get some logged data on the build to see if it has gains advanced or retarded.
Sean, following up on a mistake in my reply, I meant to say that I left the AEM Adjustable Cam i have at "factory" set, aka zero degrees, with a factory OEM Y7 head.
@@11fulstrum Thanks for the clarification. Our engine should be up and running in the next couple months. I'm building the car for road courses, and I decided to take it apart and install an A6/Z6 crankshaft to help avoid rod bearing oiling issues, so that's been a little bit of a setback, but I'm getting close.
@@turbovolvos40 Ah yes, the Z6 crankshafts I've heard are the way to go. Which is also probably why there seems to be an absence of high flow oil pumps in after market for the Y7 and 8 engines. Which is why my motor has a high flow Z6 pump that just needed a little bit of modifications to take an oil dipstick and line up with the oil pan bolt pattern. 🤞 You don't hit any more set backs on the build
I trying to find very simple, but apperantly NOT thing. WICH way is RETARD, and wich way is advanced? on that cam gear? Had mine ebay china shit with no instructions...
Pro tip: Don't use Ebay motor parts... trust me. Unless you want your engine to pop. Stick with OEM or Racing Pedigree brands like Megan Racing, AEM, Spoon Sports, etc. Depending on your application.
To answer your question, which I apologize for the long delay before I got to this, Honda motors of this generation (and maybe still do in newer motors) spin counter clockwise when facing the timing belt, or driver side of the motor. So to advance the timing you would spin the cam gear counter clockwise so that in relation to the crankshaft the cam lobes contact the rocker arms AHEAD of the crankshaft being in the standard position at that contact time. To retard the timing, you spin it clockwise. Again in relation to the crankshaft the cam lobes will contact later than normal timing. All of this is in relation to if you rotate the cam shaft portion of the gear (the inner portion). If you were instead to rotate the teeth of the gear clockwise, thereby pulling the belt and crankshaft with it, you are actually retarding the timing because the crankshaft is now ahead of the camshaft on the teeth of the belt. So it depends on which portion you rotate. Simple answer: timing belt moving counter clockwise is retard, timing belt moving clockwise is advance.
@@Wisefury I absolutely agree. That's the one thing Iade absolutely sure for this build is that if I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right with high quality parts from reputable brands or just not do it. The only thing I've "cheaped" out on is remanufactured injectors vs brand new ones. However, that will change if she ever goes phase two with a complete head rebuild, port/polish, valve train, heat treating. Everything on the bottom end is either high brand forged or OEM (OEM crankshaft).
Thanks man, this video helps so much. So many videos out there but this one breaks it down.
The washer isn’t supposed to go first then the gear ?
I'm only 99% certain at this exact moment, because it's been awhile since I've done this, that the shear key sits on it's wedge at a specific distance from the cam seal. So it wedges itself on there when you tighten it down, but it can't touch the cam seal.
I forgot to put on the washer on the outer crank sprocket that faces the crank pulley. Will I have any issues?
The outer one? Absolutely 150% will cause major problems. That outer washer is what keeps the shear key in place. If I believe we are talking about the same one. Is this the washer on the crank bolt? Or between the crank pulley and the crank sprocket ?
@@11fulstrum I forgot to install the washer that goes between the crank pulley and crank sprocket. I'm boosted and been like this for 200 miles. What is the worst that could happen?
@@v36vhr fck. Same man. Looking for an answer how bad it could be without one
What camshaft and throttle body are you using on your motor? I've also got a d16 y7 that I'm building up
So i know a lot of people would disagree with this, but currently the entire Head itself is a stock, rebuilt d16y7. OEM everything, including Cam. Why? because my intent here is to build the entire bottom end to the highest performance i can, and then actually run documented tests on this set up to see what a factory head can handle, before it breaks itself. Doing it this way means that the only parts that can/should break are in the head, and a head swap is way less work than coming back around to upgrading the bottom end. In the future, i aim to run a port and polish D16Y8 head (with vtec) as I'm very curious about building a stupid powerful track engine, that with the flip of a switch basically turns it back in to a gas saver daily driver (think complete turbo bypass valve, vtec set to low cam profile, ecu tune and map switch to low fuel mode, etc). As for the throttle body, im running a genuine skunk2 70mm throttle body mounted to a skunk2 Intake Manifold, where the IM only had the factory 60mm TB opening, so i had to grind and polish that open to match the TB 70mm.
Any idea on how to swap a car gear without doing a timing belt?
Kevin, unfortunately there is no safe way to do that. Meaning that you could try, by loosening the tension from the tensioner, and trying to slide the gear out from the belt and the new one on trying to not let the belt slide at all. However, I think what you are asking is if there is a way to only pull the top timing cover off, and pop the gear out and new one in. If my assumption is correct, then that would be a no. There would be no way to get the old cam off and the new one on without letting the tension out of the belt from the tensioner, which you can only access with the lower cover off. Hypothetically, it is POSSIBLE, but you would never be able to effectively verify that the lower and upper timing marks are aligned properly. It will take less time and energy to just swap the gear by doing a normal timing belt change procedure than trying to find a way to avoid all that.
@Mason Roberts thank you for explaining that. I tried to do it the way I asked, and the tension spring ended up snapping. I ended up doing a timing belt water pump kit and refreshing everything today.
@@kevincrawford6864 well im glad you managed to get it done either way. It defeintly took me a few times myself to figure out that there really isnt a "faster" or "better" way to get it done without just doing the whole belt procedure. Hope it all turned out good and good luck on the next one. 🙂
So the engine builder put the wrong tensioner until I get a new one, I loosen the wrong tensioner do I have to adjust valve slash again ? Even thou the builder did timing some sort of and valve adjustment
No. You don't need to do valve lash again. The reasoning behind having the timing system on before you do valve lash is so that there is resistive force holding the cam shaft in place while you work on the valves. If you did it without the timing on, there is always the chance the cam shaft will rotate ever so slightly and your lash distance will be set incorrectly.
@@11fulstrum ahh I see ok cool thank you for the help just to get oil pump times I need TDC cylinder 1 which I did and now only back three teethes and than put tension on the belt and should be good
What's inside the block?
YCP Vitara Pistons with Eagle H-Beam Rods. Specifically the no notch long rods. Supposed to up dcomp ratio to around 8.3 over the normal 7.8 I believe. That or you can get normal long rods and notch the bottom of the block so they clear the edges of the cylinder.
What cam are you running? I'm building a y7 turbo very similar, and I was trying to see if advancing or retarding the cam one tooth would be beneficial, or if I should just keep it at zero.
Currently I left it as factory Cam. The intent with this build was always to build up the bottom end so I don't have to worry about it, but then run OEM head and cam to see what they can actually handle. I've seen claims over the years up and down the forums, but I just wanted to test it myself. You should keep it at zero until you can get some logged data on the build to see if it has gains advanced or retarded.
Sean, following up on a mistake in my reply, I meant to say that I left the AEM Adjustable Cam i have at "factory" set, aka zero degrees, with a factory OEM Y7 head.
@@11fulstrum Thanks for the clarification. Our engine should be up and running in the next couple months. I'm building the car for road courses, and I decided to take it apart and install an A6/Z6 crankshaft to help avoid rod bearing oiling issues, so that's been a little bit of a setback, but I'm getting close.
@@turbovolvos40 Ah yes, the Z6 crankshafts I've heard are the way to go. Which is also probably why there seems to be an absence of high flow oil pumps in after market for the Y7 and 8 engines. Which is why my motor has a high flow Z6 pump that just needed a little bit of modifications to take an oil dipstick and line up with the oil pan bolt pattern. 🤞 You don't hit any more set backs on the build
I trying to find very simple, but apperantly NOT thing. WICH way is RETARD, and wich way is advanced? on that cam gear? Had mine ebay china shit with no instructions...
Pro tip: Don't use Ebay motor parts... trust me. Unless you want your engine to pop. Stick with OEM or Racing Pedigree brands like Megan Racing, AEM, Spoon Sports, etc. Depending on your application.
To answer your question, which I apologize for the long delay before I got to this, Honda motors of this generation (and maybe still do in newer motors) spin counter clockwise when facing the timing belt, or driver side of the motor. So to advance the timing you would spin the cam gear counter clockwise so that in relation to the crankshaft the cam lobes contact the rocker arms AHEAD of the crankshaft being in the standard position at that contact time. To retard the timing, you spin it clockwise. Again in relation to the crankshaft the cam lobes will contact later than normal timing. All of this is in relation to if you rotate the cam shaft portion of the gear (the inner portion). If you were instead to rotate the teeth of the gear clockwise, thereby pulling the belt and crankshaft with it, you are actually retarding the timing because the crankshaft is now ahead of the camshaft on the teeth of the belt. So it depends on which portion you rotate. Simple answer: timing belt moving counter clockwise is retard, timing belt moving clockwise is advance.
@@Wisefury I absolutely agree. That's the one thing Iade absolutely sure for this build is that if I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right with high quality parts from reputable brands or just not do it. The only thing I've "cheaped" out on is remanufactured injectors vs brand new ones. However, that will change if she ever goes phase two with a complete head rebuild, port/polish, valve train, heat treating. Everything on the bottom end is either high brand forged or OEM (OEM crankshaft).