We ran a Husqvarna distributor van in the late 70’s to early 80’s in Upper Midwest States. We would personally take the Dremel to every new saw we sold. We would just clean em up to be forever saws. We made hot saws to race everywhere. We were Scooter Enterprises at the time. All the money we made from saws we put into our race motorcycles 🏍. We had bikes on the track at Daytona.
If you don't mind me asking what was it that you did with a dremel that made them forever saws? How long would you spend on each paticular top end? I'm trying to find a happy medium between porting and just cleaning up casting flaws and chamfering ports. Any help would be greatly appreciated sir.
I run a crane in a scrap yard. I also heat my house with wood. All of my saws were pulled out of the scrap pile. I love working on saws. Guess what showed up yesterday... husky 372xp! I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I'm thinking of porting a big bore kit. I can't friggin wait.
I have a ms660 kit saw from farmertec. I didn’t touch anything in it and just put everything together as it came. I’m really curious to see how long it runs before it blows and see what fails first. I just do firewood, so it might take a while! Putting together a ms440 kit this year and using a hyway top end and stihl bearings. I like the farmertec stuff so far. Makes power affordable for someone who doesn’t use a chainsaw for a living.
I also built an ms440 kit. Stock farmertec cylinder chrome failed at about 12 hours. Replaced with out of the box hiway top end. Very noticeable power difference ) increase). About 45 hours stabbing. Runs strong.
My farmertec 660 blew up a couple weeks ago. The circlip came out on the flywheel side. Bottom end looks like it’s in good shape and I have a hyway top end for it. Trying to decide if i should split the cases and put stihl/skf bearings in it, or keep running the farmertec bearings.
As for Farmertech, I have used several, and a few other un-branded China cylinders, with mostly good results..I am sure the supplied piston rings are fine, but I almost always use a Caber ring instead, unless it is a kit for a lower-end consumer saw like a Husqvarna 440, 445, etc....as for the pin circlips, I ALWAYS use the ones supplied with the kit..same with the piston pin..some guys like to use OEM circlips in them, but I have found that the grooves in the piston are machined for the supplied clips, and often the OEM ones do not fit correctly..sometimes too loose, sometimes too thick or thin..I'm afraid the OEM ones will come out like that, so I'd rather take my chances with the supplied ones..yes, the China cylinders are definitely hit and miss..sometimes they are machined very well, other times there are quite a few flaws, and they have to be cleaned up..OEM and Meteor kits are better for sure, but I have found most cheap cylinder failures have been because someone had, say, a Husky 51 or 55(very common ones) that toasted a top end, and the owner threw a new China top end on it without finding the air leak that caused the cylinder failure to begin with..and surprise, surprise, it doesn't last long..but the "cheap cylinder" gets blamed... :)
I built for my father a Husky 51, I bought it with a toasted OEM top end, I fitted a new Farmertech 55 cyl/piston. The plating looked good as did the porting, piston looked good too. He is still using it many many years later.
@@MegaDirtyberty ..yes, you really got lucky, then..usually, there is an underlying cause of the initial failure, and when lay-folks just replace the bad parts, the underlying cause re-surfaces, and presto-you have the same failure again...
@@dyer2cycle I wasn't expecting much but the p/c looked top notch, ports also measured to be in the same places as the OEM p/c, was surprised from Farmertech.
YES, YES!..very true about an underlying cause...read my comment again..I mentioned this..I've been doing this for 30+ years, so it wasn't my first rodeo...all too many times, a lay person just buys a Farmertec kit online, installs it, and calls it good..then when it blows again after a few tankfuls, he blames it on the Farmertec kit, because he didn't identify and fix the underlying cause for the initial failure...
The variations in combustion chamber were very interesting to see. I’ve been very happy with porting Hyway although there does seem to be a more noticeable brittle aspect to their plating compared with OEM. Thanks for taking the time to make this - good solid observations and information.
Lots of love for them Meteor pistons and their topend kits too!!! They are just like the OEM part…there might be a tad bit of difference in some of those shapes and sizes but they are the closest to OEM and they just require a little bit of love and they are ready for a lifetime of service!!! That’s what I put in my work saw’s… 👍❤️🇺🇸🤘🔥🥩
I built a 288 for myself in January. I used the Meteor jug with a popup piston. The piston was a bit pricey at $40 but I'm pretty sure it's not Asian. The box is marked lil red barn. I didn't feel comfortable with the bearings or seals so out they came. Used an OEM 394 carb. She pulls a 42" bar like a wildman.
I bet she does pull with that carb, he k yeah, always improving where we can, I can tell ur a sharp man, I bet shes got gooobs and goooobs of torque with the 394 carb
@@travisweldmaster7815 actually I only started doing this in the past year. I have many years using these saws but professionally I was a helicopter pilot. 😆 Kind of an odd mix but I've enjoyed the mechanical side of everything since I was a kid.
Thanks for the honest review. Its been years since I used a Hyway because of how bad the last one was. Poor casting and port shape etc. Looks like they are much different today.
Your 281 jug is a super peach!!! That’s a real testament to the husky quality…25 years worth of opti-2!!! That’s a freaking beautiful cylinder and piston!!! Just beautiful!!! There’s a ton of life left in that cylinder!!! With the $50 dollar meteor piston kit!!! Great video buddy!!!
I used the Meteor kit when I built my 288, I hogged the lower transfers, deleted the base gasket (gotta trim the carb support plate if you go that route), raised the exhaust to 100*, plugged the decomp…. It’s hard on starter ropes but it pulls a 30” full comp chisel with authority…. 288’s make a lot of compression, with that hiway kit you’ll likely be north of 220psi with a gasket delete…. If you want to go nuts grab an 066 piston and machine a pop up out of it but you’ll NEED a decomp… think you’ll need the 066 wrist pin and bearing too. Now the 365xp I built got a 372xp Warhawk top end, needed tons of hogging in the transfers and intake/exh, the wrist pin was tight, there was still circular casting marks in the combustion chamber from casting, needed to grind the burrs out of the upper transfer ports…. But I wouldn’t expect anything less than that on a $60 top end.
I think another aspect is longevity. Alloys and the base materials make a huge difference in how long something is going to last. Homeowner using a saw 3 times a year to clear storm damage is different from a logger using a saw every day for 8 hrs a day.
Aluminum and all its diffrent alloys just as well be apples to oranges, I build towers and marine fabrication, no 2 grades of aluminum are alike , especially as far as expansion due to heat and cold
Thanks for the comparison, bought a Farmertec once, open the box and found it in the same condition. Put in on the shelve it is still there 3 years later. I like the Hyway, rebuilt quite a few saws, always had good luck with those kits.
TH-cam shows me stuff late. The meteor top I put on a saw I built. I put it next to a oem saw while they both idle on concrete. the oem bounced around, while the meteor sat like a bull. cut great. I always use oem pins and clips. the stihl pin is a little lighter. I would always replace with the meteor. i like wolf creek too. thanks
Intake and exhaust passage roughness may contribute to turbulence which may help with fuel and air mixture on the intake side. Exhaust should be smooth to allow faster flow!
Get you a roll of the 6’x300’ of the filter fabric and scrap and grade then spread your old material then top dress with your new… it’ll keep it from sinking into your soils and being a mess… I wasn’t big on the filter fabric until I really built some larger stone driveways and patios… you gotta have it… at one place we welded up a wedge with three panels of expanded metal sheet so we could reclaim their 20 years of stone… then graded it with good drainage then the material layer then the stone and then the top dress of stone… compaction between your laying is key to making a solid grade that will stay there for quite a while…. If you just dump your stone over a clay or sand base then it’ll just continue to sink over time…. 👍😁
You have to really check the circlip grooves. Sometimes they arent real deep or have bits of crud in them. I like to clean them out and make them deeper.
i think considering the farmtec is a hundred minimum less, i would try one, chamfer it out and clean it up.. I have a farmtec 070 that has been amazing for almost two years now and it is used pretty heavily on a chainsawmill. it has needed zero work or parts minus one pull rope.
..and I agree 100% with your assessment that Farmertec would not be the way to go if you are going to spend hours porting it to make more power..just clean them up a bit and use them on stock bread-and-butter saws.. :)
Another great video post, I respect your opinions. I been busy cuttin and chopping lately since winter set in. I been utilizing my 3.5' Manual crosscut giving my Homelite SuperXL a break. Getting alot quicker cutting through logs without stopping for breaks. My uncle rebuilt my saw and he did an awesome job. I gave him my MS250 and now im considering on getting a Husky460 but not too sure👍👍
Thank you Tinman for pointing out the various after market characteristics. Nice to know what to look for when rebuilding a saw. Budget is important but most of the time you get what you pay for and the saw will run for some time either way. Hyway definitely looks like a solid mid price range high quality brand. That's where I'm going for my saws going forward. Now having said that... I put a $56 complete top end on my 55 husky and it has been cutting 20 to 30 cords for the last three years without issue🤞. Maybe just got lucky. But it will be Hyway next time, for sure. Thanks again, all the best to you, the Mrs. and baby. Take care Tinman, Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
Very big difference between the different brands. It clearly shows that spending a bit more money is well worth it in the end for performance and longer life.
If you just need to get an old saw up and running on a budget, the farmertec kit will do that, and probably work well if you can put in a little clean up work. But it was pretty rough and ready 😅 For my money, the Hyway kit looks solid. Best casting on the cylinder and piston, o.e. transfer holes in the piston, biggest squish band, and second cheapest. Lovely. 😊
Excellent sir! My wife is always excited to hear what TinMan taught her husband, sometimes... I find you're best watched around 1.75 speed with my trigger finger on the pause button. Why? Cause I need more exposure to your wisdom, and I don't have that much time. The cutaways are excellent as well. THANK YOU! -- Retired software engineer. -- North Central Florida -- 12.19.2022
It would be interesting to see a longevity test between the OEM, Meteor, and Hyway cylinder kits in a m-tronic or auto-tune saw. Pull the cylinders at 2000 hrs and compare them. When I order either a meteor or hyway kit I always ask the seller which one is better for a full time logging saw, they are still telling me Meteor. When and if I get 2000 hrs on a Hyway cylinder I will compare them. You would be hard pressed to find even a new OEM cylinder made better than the OEM ones 25-30 years ago Husky or Stihl. Whichever kit you choose make sure the ports are chamfered and smooth up the edges on the piston.
Most saws don't reach 2000 hours of work time, for most average joes. Sure its possible, but most ppl don't do the maintenance needed for such a lifespan or higher. Failure to regularly clean the air filter, 50:1 gas-oil ratio instead of 40-30:1 leading to premature crank bearings wear, bad carb tune on the lean side creating scoring on the piston etc. These will kill your saw way before normal wear.
@@em4703 Poor maintenance, dull chains and bad mix/fuel kills alot of saws. According to the frequent CST readings on the 592xp I cut with I have been averaging 5 hrs a day of run time on that saw, so ideally it will hit 2000 hrs in 400 work days with the OEM cylinder. Most days I run seperate saws for felling and buckn. I have a pair of Stihl Arctic 046 saws purchased new and used for logging full time for 25 years (comparing to the age of the 281 in the video) I would say at this time both have at least 20,000 hrs on them. Both have had new carb kits, a couple of tank handles, brake handles, wrap handles, bearings, clutches, carb boots, pistons and rings but both are still running with the OEM cylinders, crankcases, crankshafts, oil pumps, they came with. I have several 064s and 066 saws that have held up better than the 046's with similar hours. Most loggers are not still running 25 year plus old saws but I think it's important to share with you my personal experience with saws so you have something to compare to with what to expect from a well maintained pro saw.
Tinman thank you great video on the quality or lack of in some cases. I have a little MS171 that the flywheel key shered as result of my bad on the impact trigger. Anyway I was thinking to make a steel one and cut a groove in it for the steel key. I know the flywheels are around but I been fixing mechanical stuff all my life and like to take the challenge. Thanks for the great content. Cheers to you Friend Bill
To be vulgar the farmtech is hammered dogshit, although the worst cylinder head that I've ever gotten for a chainsaw was from Italy. I was pretty cruel in porting it, it's on my 268xp and holy hell that thing rips!!!
I like the farmertecs. Takes more cleanup but ive never been afraid to take em to the extreme and they usually rip in an insane way when you do. If you mess up its $28. Thats pocket change in the saw world. They honestly last way longer than most people give em credit for. But when you take a saw to the extreme they all wear out pretty quick when compared to stock.
I am rebuilding a 288 with a toasted top end for an arborist customer, he wanted to know what cylinder to use and I told him Meteor so he got the Meteor piston/cyl kit, kinda disappointed in the finish considering people rave over them, while not bad it does have imperfections. A little flash and casting imperfections in the transfer ports and some in the intake and exhaust ports, not enough to get the dremel out but they are there, I also had to clean the flash out of the piston port windows, It came with the Caber F ring. It's getting new gaskets, bearings, seals, piston/cylinder, new rubber anti vibe mounts and tank handle because it's warped. I have deleted the base gasket, It should be a good running saw when I am finished with it.
I put the $25 dollar Duke’s moly popup piston in the 088 Stihl rebuild… better numbers and that lighter popup and that 088 became quite a angry girl!!! She’s yanking that 42” bar like it stole something!!! LMFFAO!!! That Hyway piston has some nice looking window’s!!! That Hyway cylinder is going to make more power with the smaller chamber and bigger windows… I would save the $50 bucks after watching this video!!! Love your use of my “Mo-sheen’s”… verbiage… I uncle from Indiana/Michigan said Mo-sheen’s!!! When he was talking hill racing cycles…. When your brains wide awake and you are clicking on all 8!’ Or in our case’s now… all one!!! LMFFAO! We are down to just a single cylinder… pure and raw!!! 😂😂😂😂
Just finished my G660 bb port and tickle. I will be porting the exhaust via TIG braze. I have got to say of the very few cylinder heads that I ported, the farmtech had so many impurities in the aluminum it wasn't even funny. I'm no aluminumologyt, I deal with mostly 7075 at work though.
I'm mainly anodized towers at this point, marlin magazine covers ect,, start low amperage and turn ur pos up to 25/75 let it cook for a few sec where ur going to weld let that cleaning action cook the crsp out before you puddle, world of difference, not saying your wrong just what I do on dirty cast. And anodized...250-300 amps ac on off switch 25%ckean+, and 75 pen-, blast dap, skip blast dab, zkip and so on. 100npercent pen an nothing but shiny dimes
Oh and I love tig brazing, it blows people's mind who arnt In the industry, gold dimes of all diffrent materials stuck together and about as strong as 3000 series aluminum easily, pretty good to not actually be fused
Ive not done many top end replacements, but so far, ive used Hyway 3 times, and Farmertec 1 time, no Meteors yet. The first i did with Farmertec, it worked OK, but like you, i was not very impressed with their fit and finish. I did do a bit of smoothing and chamfering to it, although the price is quite low, i decided to tey something a bit better and also a bit pricier. I did a Husky 440, an Echo CS-370, and my Farmertec 372xp with the Hyway top ends, i was impressed with the Hyway, the looks and the performance were quite good. I may try Meteor in the future, but i dont feel like I'd go far wrong with Hyway. Thanks for your review on these brands. ~Chris~
The cheaper the price of the part that’s the more “Quality Control bench final finishing station work” that you will need to do to have a good quality results… that’s the way that I started thinking about the aftermarket parts and what they really cost…it’s their initial price point and your hour’s of “necessary finishing work to get it to a good running condition. Please folks remove the little tab off those cheap C-clips and don’t install them with those ears on them because they pop out and kill your engine… ! Listen to the TinMan!!!
Great video, good to see the parts side by side. I’d be an OEM believer… for that hundred+ bucks difference I’d skip my beers for a while to buy the real thing, only have a few Pro Stihl saws… I can see how the aftermarket parts appeal to some, if you’re not fussy they have their place I suppose. Thanks for the interesting video.
So ive been just pinging back and forth on what saw to get for mostly milling but also some falling. Im looking at the 660 or the neotec version but idk if i should get just the base parts kit and get a big bore and some other upgrades and build it up right off the bat. Also note it would be the first saw ive ever actually dug into
I'd LOVE to see you fix that farmertec cylinder with a Dremel. Especially since I have 2 Farmertec cylinders sitting in a box waiting for me to try my hand at porting.... :) I'm planning on leaving the timing alone assuming that they matches the timing on the current OEM cylinders.
Thanks for the info. You wre fair and honest. Personally, I avoid buying anything from China due to their continued threat to world peace. Thanks again, the info. was helpful.
are you sure mate ? its been a loooong time since any consumer goods been produced in our countries . You risk not buying anything ; good for saving ...
Nice comparison! Thanks! I have had plating issues with farmertec cylinders. Love their saw kits but I would bin the cylinder if you want to put hours on the saw.
I built for my father a Husky 51, I bought it with a toasted OEM top end, I fitted a new Farmertech 55 cyl/piston. The plating looked good as did the porting, piston looked good too. He is still using it many many years later.
Just did a farmer tech on a 288 and the intake was soo low I couldn't even bolt the carb on without cutting the aera underneath the carb out, started grinding and ground till I decided it wasn't going to fit unless I cut it out compelety
The Hyway jug I purchased recently for my MS461 was comparable to stock. The plating actually looked better than stock. *However* the pop-up piston that came with it had an issue. One of the (2) piston ring pins in the ring groove wasn't in the correct location. Instead of half the pin interfering with the ring and stopping overtravel, it was almost completely buried in the piston skirt, with just a couple thousands of the pin actually protruding into the channel. It was actually the aluminum swelling around the pin that stopped the ring travel. A bit concerning.. I went forward with the installation, but I'm keeping a close eye on it. The Duke's coated (flat top) piston for the MS461 looked better than OEM, and had tighter clearance in the OEM jug than the Hyway. It was a perfect fit. After watching John's Custom Saw Shop review of the CCC Racing piston, I wish I'd known about them / could find one of their pistons for the MS461. As it stands right now I think they only make 'em for the MS500i. Fit and finish is out-of-this-world.
@@docteur-stihl Made the mistake of buying on EBay instead of direct from Hyway. Reputable sellers, but that can all be faked with bots... In any case, I suppose the lesson is; buy from the manufacturer.
thanks Tinman. i will shortly be in the market for a 288 piston, after seeing this i know the Hyway fits with my wants. edit. if i can find one for sale seperately in australia. hopefully it gives a nice tight deck height in an oem cylinder. loving all the 288 content.
That small end pin seemed really loose in the piston compared to Sthil OEM. Granted, you didn’t feel any play, but my Meteor pin is much tighter. Enough to make me want to cool the pin and warm the piston when I fit it…
I just bought a G660 with an oregan 36" bar for slabbing. I am pretty happy with it, but doesn't match up to brand names. I bought it because slabbing is rough on saws and price is 3 times less than brand names.
There’s definitely a lot to that cry once… in those $100 dollar type topend options… I’d be curious which of the Hyway or meteor pistons fit that older oem the best??? I’d definitely try to clean up the used cylinder first then I’m going meteor kit… It is pretty embarrassing that the 25 year old Husqvarna still has a better tolerance than the new Farmertec!!!😂😂😂👍
The Husqvarna is probably a Mahle or Gilardoni if it's older...I do think Husqvarna either makes a lot of their own cylinders now, or has them made for them by some undisclosed supplier(China or Taiwan maybe?)..not sure..
Have you ever used the Dukes stuff? Picked up a moly coated piston and wasn't impressed coating mostly wore off after half dozen or so tanks of fuel, reused a oem cylinder took the cleanest tightest cylinder one i had, wasn't impressed by the coating wearing so darn fast
I think Dukes is hit and miss. Got a nikasil kit for a Husq 55, worked great. Got another one for another 55. It scored the ring just slightly. Lost compression, shut right down. Took it off and was surprised to see alot of wear on the piston skirt along with a mark on the ring. Dukes told me it was probably from dirt. Now after seeing this video I have to wonder if it was from a rough exhaust port chamfer. Cleaned it out good first so I didn't really buy their dirt theory. Put another chrome cylinder kit on the same saw and its running great now.
I had crap luck with farmer tec and only tried them once. The cylinder was replaced, but was still not great. The bearings didnt fit in the seals by .020" in diameter. Oem for me.
Meteor piston = caber rings .Meteor piston in oem cylinder is = a brand new oem piston . I buy meteor piston on DLA engine parts .Thank you Tinman for youre video"s !
I JUST found your channel, or site if that's what you call this and I'm a FAN ALREADY, No Bull-POO and just down home talk. I subscribed and will be watching until the moon comes out...LOL EXCELLENT Comparisons. This is awesome to see and really the cost doesn't really come into consideration when you're trying to build dependable power...or why even do this...Right-On? Between the two better aftermarket KITS it seem (((FOR ME))) I'd have to go with the METEOR. Only because of the PISTON shape and weight...Again this is (((FOR ME))) a better fit for MY NEEDS from a SAW. Man, Keep showing these kinds of Comparisons Friend. I'm 71yrs old and still get my share of Woods Time with a DECENT SAW so this kind of stuff is very interesting FOR ME. JUST SAYIN'
I wonder if mine has lasted flawlessly for years now big bored pop up piston, ported, 52mm, piped...solely because I never ran the factory jug or piston and didnt break of plating to eat up the bottom end and bearings, just went straight to bb ported pop up and piped keeping the crap farmer cylinder completely out the picture?
One mans junk is another mans gold ! All my saws are pre 2000 stihl most owned from new some e-bay jobies , I will never ever own a saw that has a computer or a IMPROVED fuel cap or locked carb adjusters .
Getting ready to rebuild a stihl 044 magnum was looking at aftermarket jugs and found your video. How are the hyway and meteor for longevity? I’ve heard horror stories about some of the Chinese jugs wearing out after just a few hours. I will be in an area that only has a stihl dealer and at least two weeks to get anything shipped. Also have a husqvarna 440 I will be rebuilding
Farmertec is China.... Hyway is Taiwan....and Meteor is Italy......I've had problems with China kits before, piston rings are VERY brittle and break Super easy!!(cheap cast iron).......it ended up costing my Customer time and money!! so I had to Re-order piston rings for that saw, this time they were Italian Made, steel rings, and went on no problem!....I've also done a Mako Top End on my Stihl 041.....made in Australia, very nice Top End, runs great. I'm in the process of rebuilding my MS460 Magnum right now.....cylinder is fine, but piston is Burned......I have no problems getting a Hyway, but since this might be my "new" personal saw, I'm probably going to get Meteor.....Like I said, you are taking a risk with cheaper kits, the machining can be Hit or Miss.
@@brendanthebattlerstafford5145 hyway cant tell much, I've never had it delaminate, I doubt doubt you though, oem is def best MOST OF THE TIME but I haven't had any problems with hyway or meteor especially vs the oem price
@@fabzacres-blackcat that is the plan. Cost me $419.00 Plus shipping and handling. Looks like the original. Keepin my fingers crossed it makes her run like she use too.
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We ran a Husqvarna distributor van in the late 70’s to early 80’s in Upper Midwest States. We would personally take the Dremel to every new saw we sold. We would just clean em up to be forever saws. We made hot saws to race everywhere. We were Scooter Enterprises at the time. All the money we made from saws we put into our race motorcycles 🏍. We had bikes on the track at Daytona.
If you don't mind me asking what was it that you did with a dremel that made them forever saws? How long would you spend on each paticular top end? I'm trying to find a happy medium between porting and just cleaning up casting flaws and chamfering ports. Any help would be greatly appreciated sir.
@MotoLife541 great question. I too am curious to find a happy medium between porting and just cleaning up casting / polishing.
I run a crane in a scrap yard. I also heat my house with wood. All of my saws were pulled out of the scrap pile. I love working on saws. Guess what showed up yesterday... husky 372xp! I haven't had time to look at it yet, but I'm thinking of porting a big bore kit. I can't friggin wait.
That's a great score for sure!!
I have a ms660 kit saw from farmertec. I didn’t touch anything in it and just put everything together as it came. I’m really curious to see how long it runs before it blows and see what fails first. I just do firewood, so it might take a while! Putting together a ms440 kit this year and using a hyway top end and stihl bearings. I like the farmertec stuff so far. Makes power affordable for someone who doesn’t use a chainsaw for a living.
I also built an ms440 kit. Stock farmertec cylinder chrome failed at about 12 hours. Replaced with out of the box hiway top end. Very noticeable power difference ) increase). About 45 hours stabbing. Runs strong.
My farmertec 660 blew up a couple weeks ago. The circlip came out on the flywheel side. Bottom end looks like it’s in good shape and I have a hyway top end for it. Trying to decide if i should split the cases and put stihl/skf bearings in it, or keep running the farmertec bearings.
As for Farmertech, I have used several, and a few other un-branded China cylinders, with mostly good results..I am sure the supplied piston rings are fine, but I almost always use a Caber ring instead, unless it is a kit for a lower-end consumer saw like a Husqvarna 440, 445, etc....as for the pin circlips, I ALWAYS use the ones supplied with the kit..same with the piston pin..some guys like to use OEM circlips in them, but I have found that the grooves in the piston are machined for the supplied clips, and often the OEM ones do not fit correctly..sometimes too loose, sometimes too thick or thin..I'm afraid the OEM ones will come out like that, so I'd rather take my chances with the supplied ones..yes, the China cylinders are definitely hit and miss..sometimes they are machined very well, other times there are quite a few flaws, and they have to be cleaned up..OEM and Meteor kits are better for sure, but I have found most cheap cylinder failures have been because someone had, say, a Husky 51 or 55(very common ones) that toasted a top end, and the owner threw a new China top end on it without finding the air leak that caused the cylinder failure to begin with..and surprise, surprise, it doesn't last long..but the "cheap cylinder" gets blamed... :)
I built for my father a Husky 51, I bought it with a toasted OEM top end, I fitted a new Farmertech 55 cyl/piston. The plating looked good as did the porting, piston looked good too. He is still using it many many years later.
@@MegaDirtyberty ..yes, you really got lucky, then..usually, there is an underlying cause of the initial failure, and when lay-folks just replace the bad parts, the underlying cause re-surfaces, and presto-you have the same failure again...
@@dyer2cycle I wasn't expecting much but the p/c looked top notch, ports also measured to be in the same places as the OEM p/c, was surprised from Farmertech.
YES, YES!..very true about an underlying cause...read my comment again..I mentioned this..I've been doing this for 30+ years, so it wasn't my first rodeo...all too many times, a lay person just buys a Farmertec kit online, installs it, and calls it good..then when it blows again after a few tankfuls, he blames it on the Farmertec kit, because he didn't identify and fix the underlying cause for the initial failure...
The variations in combustion chamber were very interesting to see. I’ve been very happy with porting Hyway although there does seem to be a more noticeable brittle aspect to their plating compared with OEM. Thanks for taking the time to make this - good solid observations and information.
Thanks for showing these items. I’m learning so much by watching these videos. Thank you. For some it might be boring but i find it to be eye opoening
Lots of love for them Meteor pistons and their topend kits too!!! They are just like the OEM part…there might be a tad bit of difference in some of those shapes and sizes but they are the closest to OEM and they just require a little bit of love and they are ready for a lifetime of service!!! That’s what I put in my work saw’s… 👍❤️🇺🇸🤘🔥🥩
I use Hyway for almost every customer repair. They are almost tied with Meteor on most aspects, but usually 10-25% cheaper.
The hyway looks great. I think the farmer tech would be great to get a saw running again that will be mostly a display piece.
I built a 288 for myself in January. I used the Meteor jug with a popup piston. The piston was a bit pricey at $40 but I'm pretty sure it's not Asian. The box is marked lil red barn. I didn't feel comfortable with the bearings or seals so out they came. Used an OEM 394 carb. She pulls a 42" bar like a wildman.
Lil red barn is good legit stuff too, I've used numerous of their parts
@@travisweldmaster7815 that was the first I had heard of them myself.
@@DaveJohnsonad5nm lol side note dave Johnson was my construction teacher in high school lol, good fella
I bet she does pull with that carb, he k yeah, always improving where we can, I can tell ur a sharp man, I bet shes got gooobs and goooobs of torque with the 394 carb
@@travisweldmaster7815 actually I only started doing this in the past year. I have many years using these saws but professionally I was a helicopter pilot. 😆 Kind of an odd mix but I've enjoyed the mechanical side of everything since I was a kid.
Thanks for the honest review. Its been years since I used a Hyway because of how bad the last one was. Poor casting and port shape etc. Looks like they are much different today.
There's a chunk of casting stuck in the exhaust port threads on the meteor.
Your 281 jug is a super peach!!! That’s a real testament to the husky quality…25 years worth of opti-2!!! That’s a freaking beautiful cylinder and piston!!! Just beautiful!!! There’s a ton of life left in that cylinder!!! With the $50 dollar meteor piston kit!!! Great video buddy!!!
Wonder what my 1985 Stihl 028 super wb looks like 36-37 years of hard run and never been torn down. Still running and just put new carb on this year.
Got ms361 to help with hedge, with full chisel chain which can't find for 028 20"
This video did wonders for my rebuild game thanks Tinman!
Now I’m rolling out hyway pop ups and titankel on my own saws
man! thx for taking the time to make & compile all this and for delivering this priceless information! 🙏🏽
I used the Meteor kit when I built my 288, I hogged the lower transfers, deleted the base gasket (gotta trim the carb support plate if you go that route), raised the exhaust to 100*, plugged the decomp…. It’s hard on starter ropes but it pulls a 30” full comp chisel with authority…. 288’s make a lot of compression, with that hiway kit you’ll likely be north of 220psi with a gasket delete…. If you want to go nuts grab an 066 piston and machine a pop up out of it but you’ll NEED a decomp… think you’ll need the 066 wrist pin and bearing too.
Now the 365xp I built got a 372xp Warhawk top end, needed tons of hogging in the transfers and intake/exh, the wrist pin was tight, there was still circular casting marks in the combustion chamber from casting, needed to grind the burrs out of the upper transfer ports…. But I wouldn’t expect anything less than that on a $60 top end.
I think another aspect is longevity. Alloys and the base materials make a huge difference in how long something is going to last. Homeowner using a saw 3 times a year to clear storm damage is different from a logger using a saw every day for 8 hrs a day.
Aluminum and all its diffrent alloys just as well be apples to oranges, I build towers and marine fabrication, no 2 grades of aluminum are alike , especially as far as expansion due to heat and cold
Thanks for the comparison, bought a Farmertec once, open the box and found it in the same condition. Put in on the shelve it is still there 3 years later. I like the Hyway, rebuilt quite a few saws, always had good luck with those kits.
Hyway always seems to be more performance oriented. I really like meteor stuff too but Hyway will generally outrun it.
TH-cam shows me stuff late. The meteor top I put on a saw I built. I put it next to a oem saw while they both idle on concrete. the oem bounced around, while the meteor sat like a bull. cut great. I always use oem pins and clips. the stihl pin is a little lighter. I would always replace with the meteor. i like wolf creek too. thanks
Intake and exhaust passage roughness may contribute to turbulence which may help with fuel and air mixture on the intake side. Exhaust should be smooth to allow faster flow!
Get you a roll of the 6’x300’ of the filter fabric and scrap and grade then spread your old material then top dress with your new… it’ll keep it from sinking into your soils and being a mess… I wasn’t big on the filter fabric until I really built some larger stone driveways and patios… you gotta have it… at one place we welded up a wedge with three panels of expanded metal sheet so we could reclaim their 20 years of stone… then graded it with good drainage then the material layer then the stone and then the top dress of stone… compaction between your laying is key to making a solid grade that will stay there for quite a while…. If you just dump your stone over a clay or sand base then it’ll just continue to sink over time…. 👍😁
Thanks for the comparisons pretty cool to see the difference of quality!
You have to really check the circlip grooves. Sometimes they arent real deep or have bits of crud in them. I like to clean them out and make them deeper.
i think considering the farmtec is a hundred minimum less, i would try one, chamfer it out and clean it up.. I have a farmtec 070 that has been amazing for almost two years now and it is used pretty heavily on a chainsawmill. it has needed zero work or parts minus one pull rope.
Great to come back to your vids when l’m doing some saw mods. A great resource. Thanks @Tinman
..and I agree 100% with your assessment that Farmertec would not be the way to go if you are going to spend hours porting it to make more power..just clean them up a bit and use them on stock bread-and-butter saws.. :)
Another great video post, I respect your opinions. I been busy cuttin and chopping lately since winter set in. I been utilizing my 3.5' Manual crosscut giving my Homelite SuperXL a break. Getting alot quicker cutting through logs without stopping for breaks. My uncle rebuilt my saw and he did an awesome job. I gave him my MS250 and now im considering on getting a Husky460 but not too sure👍👍
Fun to se them side by side like that thanks tinman 👍
Thank you Tinman for pointing out the various after market characteristics. Nice to know what to look for when rebuilding a saw. Budget is important but most of the time you get what you pay for and the saw will run for some time either way. Hyway definitely looks like a solid mid price range high quality brand. That's where I'm going for my saws going forward. Now having said that... I put a $56 complete top end on my 55 husky and it has been cutting 20 to 30 cords for the last three years without issue🤞. Maybe just got lucky. But it will be Hyway next time, for sure. Thanks again, all the best to you, the Mrs. and baby. Take care Tinman, Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for the comparison thinking about rebuilding my ms 390 and the video helped
Great video, very informative I have used both meteor and hyway and have had good luck with both. Thanks Dave in Mo
Gasket delete on 288 with Meteor 26-27 squish after bolting her down on 1184 sealant. FYI.
That was fascinating man. Thanks a million
Very big difference between the different brands. It clearly shows that spending a bit more money is well worth it in the end for performance and longer life.
The highway piston actually looks like it would be better than the meteor. I always hear meteor is best but maybe highway is catching up
Looks like Hyway is a real good choice. Thanks Tinman!
Cant go wrong(from experience)
Assuming that these are all for the same saw, it would be good to install all 3 stock and cut some cookies with them after a few tanks of fuel.
If you just need to get an old saw up and running on a budget, the farmertec kit will do that, and probably work well if you can put in a little clean up work. But it was pretty rough and ready 😅
For my money, the Hyway kit looks solid. Best casting on the cylinder and piston, o.e. transfer holes in the piston, biggest squish band, and second cheapest. Lovely. 😊
Most helpful in planning how and where to invest your time n money
Thanks very much!
Excellent sir!
My wife is always excited to hear
what TinMan taught her husband, sometimes...
I find you're best watched around 1.75 speed
with my trigger finger on the pause button.
Why? Cause I need more exposure to your
wisdom, and I don't have that much time.
The cutaways are excellent as well.
THANK YOU!
-- Retired software engineer.
-- North Central Florida
-- 12.19.2022
It would be interesting to see a longevity test between the OEM, Meteor, and Hyway cylinder kits in a m-tronic or auto-tune saw. Pull the cylinders at 2000 hrs and compare them. When I order either a meteor or hyway kit I always ask the seller which one is better for a full time logging saw, they are still telling me Meteor. When and if I get 2000 hrs on a Hyway cylinder I will compare them. You would be hard pressed to find even a new OEM cylinder made better than the OEM ones 25-30 years ago Husky or Stihl. Whichever kit you choose make sure the ports are chamfered and smooth up the edges on the piston.
Most saws don't reach 2000 hours of work time, for most average joes. Sure its possible, but most ppl don't do the maintenance needed for such a lifespan or higher. Failure to regularly clean the air filter, 50:1 gas-oil ratio instead of 40-30:1 leading to premature crank bearings wear, bad carb tune on the lean side creating scoring on the piston etc. These will kill your saw way before normal wear.
@@em4703 Poor maintenance, dull chains and bad mix/fuel kills alot of saws. According to the frequent CST readings on the 592xp I cut with I have been averaging 5 hrs a day of run time on that saw, so ideally it will hit 2000 hrs in 400 work days with the OEM cylinder. Most days I run seperate saws for felling and buckn. I have a pair of Stihl Arctic 046 saws purchased new and used for logging full time for 25 years (comparing to the age of the 281 in the video) I would say at this time both have at least 20,000 hrs on them. Both have had new carb kits, a couple of tank handles, brake handles, wrap handles, bearings, clutches, carb boots, pistons and rings but both are still running with the OEM cylinders, crankcases, crankshafts, oil pumps, they came with. I have several 064s and 066 saws that have held up better than the 046's with similar hours. Most loggers are not still running 25 year plus old saws but I think it's important to share with you my personal experience with saws so you have something to compare to with what to expect from a well maintained pro saw.
@@jason3211 Great tip! The 064, 066, 660 are long lasting workhorses.
Thank you very for this clip! It was very-very interesting :)
Awesome comparison and talk👍 Very interesting seeing how much aftermarket parts differ, when they're all supposed to be copies of the same oem parts!
Tinman thank you great video on the quality or lack of in some cases. I have a little MS171 that the flywheel key shered as result of my bad on the impact trigger. Anyway I was thinking to make a steel one and cut a groove in it for the steel key. I know the flywheels are around but I been fixing mechanical stuff all my life and like to take the challenge. Thanks for the great content. Cheers to you Friend Bill
I did that with a ms270 the cast in place key sheared off. I cut and filed a keyway and ground another key. It's working ok...? Lol
Farmertec looks like grinding practice on a budget.
Lol nice
To be vulgar the farmtech is hammered dogshit, although the worst cylinder head that I've ever gotten for a chainsaw was from Italy. I was pretty cruel in porting it, it's on my 268xp and holy hell that thing rips!!!
Yep.
Grinding practice on a budget, I love it.
I like the farmertecs. Takes more cleanup but ive never been afraid to take em to the extreme and they usually rip in an insane way when you do. If you mess up its $28. Thats pocket change in the saw world. They honestly last way longer than most people give em credit for. But when you take a saw to the extreme they all wear out pretty quick when compared to stock.
Thanks man, top notch video. Exceptionally educational.
The farmertec TS350 cylinders I had were nothing like that not as rough anyway.
Excellent video my friend 😀
I am rebuilding a 288 with a toasted top end for an arborist customer, he wanted to know what cylinder to use and I told him Meteor so he got the Meteor piston/cyl kit, kinda disappointed in the finish considering people rave over them, while not bad it does have imperfections. A little flash and casting imperfections in the transfer ports and some in the intake and exhaust ports, not enough to get the dremel out but they are there, I also had to clean the flash out of the piston port windows, It came with the Caber F ring. It's getting new gaskets, bearings, seals, piston/cylinder, new rubber anti vibe mounts and tank handle because it's warped. I have deleted the base gasket, It should be a good running saw when I am finished with it.
I put the $25 dollar Duke’s moly popup piston in the 088 Stihl rebuild… better numbers and that lighter popup and that 088 became quite a angry girl!!! She’s yanking that 42” bar like it stole something!!! LMFFAO!!! That Hyway piston has some nice looking window’s!!! That Hyway cylinder is going to make more power with the smaller chamber and bigger windows… I would save the $50 bucks after watching this video!!! Love your use of my “Mo-sheen’s”… verbiage… I uncle from Indiana/Michigan said Mo-sheen’s!!! When he was talking hill racing cycles…. When your brains wide awake and you are clicking on all 8!’ Or in our case’s now… all one!!! LMFFAO! We are down to just a single cylinder… pure and raw!!! 😂😂😂😂
Nice comparison. Another great video.
Just finished my G660 bb port and tickle.
I will be porting the exhaust via TIG braze.
I have got to say of the very few cylinder heads that I ported, the farmtech had so many impurities in the aluminum it wasn't even funny. I'm no aluminumologyt, I deal with mostly 7075 at work though.
I'm mainly anodized towers at this point, marlin magazine covers ect,, start low amperage and turn ur pos up to 25/75 let it cook for a few sec where ur going to weld let that cleaning action cook the crsp out before you puddle, world of difference, not saying your wrong just what I do on dirty cast. And anodized...250-300 amps ac on off switch 25%ckean+, and 75 pen-, blast dap, skip blast dab, zkip and so on. 100npercent pen an nothing but shiny dimes
Oh and I love tig brazing, it blows people's mind who arnt In the industry, gold dimes of all diffrent materials stuck together and about as strong as 3000 series aluminum easily, pretty good to not actually be fused
Ive not done many top end replacements, but so far, ive used Hyway 3 times, and Farmertec 1 time, no Meteors yet. The first i did with Farmertec, it worked OK, but like you, i was not very impressed with their fit and finish. I did do a bit of smoothing and chamfering to it, although the price is quite low, i decided to tey something a bit better and also a bit pricier. I did a Husky 440, an Echo CS-370, and my Farmertec 372xp with the Hyway top ends, i was impressed with the Hyway, the looks and the performance were quite good. I may try Meteor in the future, but i dont feel like I'd go far wrong with Hyway. Thanks for your review on these brands.
~Chris~
That Hiway kit looks the best to the eye. Id get it if i needed one
You would think that they would come with a new bearing for the piston too.
Thanks Man Great Video Try a Stens Piston and Cylinder Kit Too They Seem Well Done and Finished 😀
The cheaper the price of the part that’s the more “Quality Control bench final finishing station work” that you will need to do to have a good quality results… that’s the way that I started thinking about the aftermarket parts and what they really cost…it’s their initial price point and your hour’s of “necessary finishing work to get it to a good running condition.
Please folks remove the little tab off those cheap C-clips and don’t install them with those ears on them because they pop out and kill your engine… ! Listen to the TinMan!!!
Great video, good to see the parts side by side. I’d be an OEM believer… for that hundred+ bucks difference I’d skip my beers for a while to buy the real thing, only have a few Pro Stihl saws… I can see how the aftermarket parts appeal to some, if you’re not fussy they have their place I suppose. Thanks for the interesting video.
So ive been just pinging back and forth on what saw to get for mostly milling but also some falling. Im looking at the 660 or the neotec version but idk if i should get just the base parts kit and get a big bore and some other upgrades and build it up right off the bat. Also note it would be the first saw ive ever actually dug into
That Farmertec cylinder i believe is made by Hanakawa. That marking in a base gave it away.
The pits in the farmatec cylinder will cause lots of detonated. Which will leave it lacking in performance. Would be good for a new porter
Excellent content, very informative and nicely done! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing another cool video
I'd LOVE to see you fix that farmertec cylinder with a Dremel. Especially since I have 2 Farmertec cylinders sitting in a box waiting for me to try my hand at porting.... :) I'm planning on leaving the timing alone assuming that they matches the timing on the current OEM cylinders.
Great vid very informative through comparison. Thank you. Be safe and be careful
I keep hearing just cutting fire wood that seems to be the hardest we are on the saws when we fire wood the whole tree
Thanks for the info. You wre fair and honest. Personally, I avoid buying anything from China due to their continued threat to world peace. Thanks again, the info. was helpful.
😄😄😄 thats bloody funny check ya underwear mate
are you sure mate ? its been a loooong time since any consumer goods been produced in our countries . You risk not buying anything ; good for saving ...
Nice comparison! Thanks!
I have had plating issues with farmertec cylinders. Love their saw kits but I would bin the cylinder if you want to put hours on the saw.
Morning buddy, good to see ya here!!
I built for my father a Husky 51, I bought it with a toasted OEM top end, I fitted a new Farmertech 55 cyl/piston. The plating looked good as did the porting, piston looked good too. He is still using it many many years later.
Just did a farmer tech on a 288 and the intake was soo low I couldn't even bolt the carb on without cutting the aera underneath the carb out, started grinding and ground till I decided it wasn't going to fit unless I cut it out compelety
The Hyway jug I purchased recently for my MS461 was comparable to stock. The plating actually looked better than stock. *However* the pop-up piston that came with it had an issue. One of the (2) piston ring pins in the ring groove wasn't in the correct location. Instead of half the pin interfering with the ring and stopping overtravel, it was almost completely buried in the piston skirt, with just a couple thousands of the pin actually protruding into the channel. It was actually the aluminum swelling around the pin that stopped the ring travel. A bit concerning..
I went forward with the installation, but I'm keeping a close eye on it.
The Duke's coated (flat top) piston for the MS461 looked better than OEM, and had tighter clearance in the OEM jug than the Hyway. It was a perfect fit.
After watching John's Custom Saw Shop review of the CCC Racing piston, I wish I'd known about them / could find one of their pistons for the MS461. As it stands right now I think they only make 'em for the MS500i. Fit and finish is out-of-this-world.
Hello Guy ! Where did u buy it thank you
@@docteur-stihl Made the mistake of buying on EBay instead of direct from Hyway. Reputable sellers, but that can all be faked with bots... In any case, I suppose the lesson is; buy from the manufacturer.
Those CCC race pistons are constantly sold out I think they have preferred customers that get first dibs
@@joepesci8930 Yea, wouldnt surprise me at all, unfortunately.
thanks Tinman. i will shortly be in the market for a 288 piston, after seeing this i know the Hyway fits with my wants. edit. if i can find one for sale seperately in australia. hopefully it gives a nice tight deck height in an oem cylinder.
loving all the 288 content.
That small end pin seemed really loose in the piston compared to Sthil OEM. Granted, you didn’t feel any play, but my Meteor pin is much tighter. Enough to make me want to cool the pin and warm the piston when I fit it…
Judging by the combustion chamber and lack of decomp, I'd say that oem cylinder might be a 181
Wicked content ...great review
I just bought a G660 with an oregan 36" bar for slabbing. I am pretty happy with it, but doesn't match up to brand names.
I bought it because slabbing is rough on saws and price is 3 times less than brand names.
@@jason3211 supposedly it has a Walbro carb so why it might be smoother.
👍 I wonder if the farmer tech piston expands more than the better quality pistons?
Absolutely
There’s definitely a lot to that cry once… in those $100 dollar type topend options… I’d be curious which of the Hyway or meteor pistons fit that older oem the best??? I’d definitely try to clean up the used cylinder first then I’m going meteor kit…
It is pretty embarrassing that the 25 year old Husqvarna still has a better tolerance than the new Farmertec!!!😂😂😂👍
The Husqvarna is probably a Mahle or Gilardoni if it's older...I do think Husqvarna either makes a lot of their own cylinders now, or has them made for them by some undisclosed supplier(China or Taiwan maybe?)..not sure..
Have you ever used the Dukes stuff? Picked up a moly coated piston and wasn't impressed coating mostly wore off after half dozen or so tanks of fuel, reused a oem cylinder took the cleanest tightest cylinder one i had, wasn't impressed by the coating wearing so darn fast
I think Dukes is hit and miss. Got a nikasil kit for a Husq 55, worked great. Got another one for another 55. It scored the ring just slightly. Lost compression, shut right down. Took it off and was surprised to see alot of wear on the piston skirt along with a mark on the ring. Dukes told me it was probably from dirt. Now after seeing this video I have to wonder if it was from a rough exhaust port chamfer. Cleaned it out good first so I didn't really buy their dirt theory. Put another chrome cylinder kit on the same saw and its running great now.
I always used OEM but have been using some hyway on a few things an like their stuff so far. Never used those others tho.
I had crap luck with farmer tec and only tried them once. The cylinder was replaced, but was still not great.
The bearings didnt fit in the seals by .020" in diameter.
Oem for me.
Love the info Tinman! I am thinking everyday Joe has to go Hyway!!! Ken
Thank you. Great content and advice.
You didn’t mention Highway’s pop-up piston ? Would that piston with their barrel give you even more compression?
Meteor piston = caber rings .Meteor piston in oem cylinder is = a brand new oem piston . I buy meteor piston on DLA engine parts .Thank you Tinman for youre video"s !
Great comparison vid! Thanks
I JUST found your channel, or site if that's what you call this and I'm a FAN ALREADY, No Bull-POO and just down home talk. I subscribed and will be watching until the moon comes out...LOL
EXCELLENT Comparisons. This is awesome to see and really the cost doesn't really come into consideration when you're trying to build dependable power...or why even do this...Right-On?
Between the two better aftermarket KITS it seem (((FOR ME))) I'd have to go with the METEOR. Only because of the PISTON shape and weight...Again this is (((FOR ME))) a better fit for MY NEEDS from a SAW.
Man, Keep showing these kinds of Comparisons Friend. I'm 71yrs old and still get my share of Woods Time with a DECENT SAW so this kind of stuff is very interesting FOR ME.
JUST SAYIN'
Great info. very useful for newbie saw builders.
Very good. Enjoyed it.
I wonder if mine has lasted flawlessly for years now big bored pop up piston, ported, 52mm, piped...solely because I never ran the factory jug or piston and didnt break of plating to eat up the bottom end and bearings, just went straight to bb ported pop up and piped keeping the crap farmer cylinder completely out the picture?
One mans junk is another mans gold ! All my saws are pre 2000 stihl most owned from new some e-bay jobies , I will never ever own a saw that has a computer or a IMPROVED fuel cap or locked carb adjusters .
Outstanding review! 👍👍👍
Getting ready to rebuild a stihl 044 magnum was looking at aftermarket jugs and found your video. How are the hyway and meteor for longevity? I’ve heard horror stories about some of the Chinese jugs wearing out after just a few hours. I will be in an area that only has a stihl dealer and at least two weeks to get anything shipped. Also have a husqvarna 440 I will be rebuilding
Farmertec is China.... Hyway is Taiwan....and Meteor is Italy......I've had problems with China kits before, piston rings are VERY brittle and break Super easy!!(cheap cast iron).......it ended up costing my Customer time and money!! so I had to Re-order piston rings for that saw, this time they were Italian Made, steel rings, and went on no problem!....I've also done a Mako Top End on my Stihl 041.....made in Australia, very nice Top End, runs great. I'm in the process of rebuilding my MS460 Magnum right now.....cylinder is fine, but piston is Burned......I have no problems getting a Hyway, but since this might be my "new" personal saw, I'm probably going to get Meteor.....Like I said, you are taking a risk with cheaper kits, the machining can be Hit or Miss.
Nice comparison vid Tinman.
What are your thoughts on grinding after market cylinders compared to OEM?
All in the plating
But a hyway or good one wont maje a noticeable difference
@@travisweldmaster7815 I’ve found the plating doesn’t adhere to the cylinder as well in after market as it does OEM.
What are your experiences?
@@brendanthebattlerstafford5145 hyway cant tell much, I've never had it delaminate, I doubt doubt you though, oem is def best MOST OF THE TIME but I haven't had any problems with hyway or meteor especially vs the oem price
@@travisweldmaster7815 thank you for telling me of your experiences 👊
Great comparo @Tinman, thankyou.
Was the Hyway a std bore or the Nikasil kit ?
very helpful illustrative factual vid again
My Grandpa would say that farmertec is about like throwing a hot dog down a hallway... Rip papaw.
Got an old stihl 064. Whats the best recommendation for a replacement cylinder and piston kit?
Oem KS jug and slug … make lotsa ol school power
@@fabzacres-blackcat that is the plan. Cost me $419.00 Plus shipping and handling. Looks like the original. Keepin my fingers crossed it makes her run like she use too.
Back in thanks again good topic.
Be nice to know the difference in squish between the three...?