We hope you enjoy this video, it was fun to make. A key point to remember is that training your weaknesses is hard. Especially for younger climbers. You have to ensure they get positive reinforcement or they may associate a bad session with being a bad person. The younger brain is fascinating. Therefore if you are taking your kids climbing or you coach younger climbers, ensure that working your weaknesses is mixed in with their strengths. Also, when working their weaknesses, give a lot of positive reinforcement when they make even the smallest amount of progression. This can be said for newer climbers too. We don't want all of our sessions to be filled with falling and no tops, or you'll stop climbing. But once you get to grips with this concept, it will change your climbing more positively than anything else. All of the top athletes in the world get encouraged by failure. You'll note Alex P saying 'I want it'(!) at 19:03. This is an example. Not getting shut down, or letting the ego move on to an easier climb that she will top. The very best climbers fail on single moves of their projects hundreds and hundreds of times before success. Just remember that when you fall off the first move of a climb in your gym and then think about moving on... We hope you enjoy it and let us know your thoughts!
I find it utterly refreshing and encouraging to see a member of the Climbing Royalty (and coach!!), Her Royal Highness Alex I, trying, failing, and repeating countless times until they manage the boulder (or not), just like us, mere mortals … 😉 Something one hardly ever sees, especially in this time and age, when everyone is so desperately trying to live their absolute best life on social media. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you so much! I, like many, used to only share the “highs”, but found it false and myself less relatable-people assumed I was a different “breed”. But, the reality is, everyone fails. The beauty of our sport is, we all go through the same struggles. Learning how to deal with failure and use it as motivation rather than frustration is the key. But I really appreciate the kind words. More coming soon! (Tomorrow actually) A
Thank you Alex & Robin for this honest and open video. Big thank you to Alex for addressing this issue & showing us „your weakness“. Not everyone would it do public. And Robin: this time the volume with music & sound was perfect!!! You guys are doing a great job.
I have so much respect for Alex as a climber. What I love about this video is that I can see that we all have limits. Mine are different than hers (yeah, light years different) but the feelings and doubts😮 that come up when I face them are something we share.
☺️ aww, thank you so much! Yes, we absolutely all have our limitations. I have found that knowing these, accepting these and addressing these (when you have the mental capacity) is crucial. I get stubborn on these kind of climbs. IF they’re super risky, I won’t bother why more, but if I just don’t have the confidence, I will push, push and push (progressively) to get better at “that” specific weakness
Great to see you practice what you preach about checking your ego at the door! Alex being a highly decorated competition climber not being afraid to show her weakness on a lower grade. Great content Alex!
Yes!! Exactly. I really wanted to show that people see me in “my element”, but it takes a lot of “this” to get there! Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
When Alex joined, he just brought in a completely different approach, both cognitively and emotionally. I think there are very few things you can do on your own to emulate witnessing this mastery right in front of your eyes. It immediately became much less scary - even fun - and there was a clear path forward.
Ahhh, thank you! I was filming it and smiling the whole time! The best thing about it was it was unplanned. Alex and I started making this film and then after Alex W turned up, we thought he could be in it. But the red section was so good, we switched me out for him! Thanks for watching!
Hey ROAP Coaching, this was better content! Alex was more authentic, and watching her actually problem solve in real time rather than just demonstrate is more valuable to watch. Keep the quality content coming!
Yeahhh new video and how can it be so relatable and motivating. I also injured my ankle recently from slipping off a volume. And the fear is now there when I get back bouldering. I’ll definitely try the slower move that Alex mentioned in the video.
Sorry to hear you hurt your ankle too. Take it slowly and use other holds for climbs like this to begin with. But once you have the all clear from your physics, definitely try to push yourself to address these fears! Good luck and let us know how you get on! Thanks for watching!
Never feel bad about it! We all have weaknesses and many professionals are like this too. Acknowledge the weakness. Accept it. Address it progressively, at your pace, but always push yourself. We always think “others are watching”, but it shouldn’t matter to anyone how you perform on your climbs. Thanks for watching!!!
Anyone else absolutely HATE when they put these HUGE holds / volumes at the bottom of the wall under vertical hard problems? Like dude I dont want to project with an object below me....
Really nice tips (like the run-and-jump start for the coordination move), I'm gonna try it for sure! One thing I can say as a psychologist is, *don't use food as rewards*! When food need to be deserved it can become very tricky (for progression and wellbeing) for a super long list of reasons!
The 30/70% concept is a good idea. I just set myself a goal to do certain amount of routes that i don't like and after half a year i can suddenly do decent coordination dinos. Though still the simpler ones, but way better then before. Also asked myself what Alex W does now these days. Now i know a bit more. Still waiting for a new shorts in his shop.
Super fun (and instructional) video to watch. Looking forward to the next session of practicing and playing with moves that are hard for me. Out of curiosity regarding that hard kilter move. Do you vary the angle when working moves like these? I have found it extremely helpful to train strength on a route/move on the kilter with progressive overloading (by essentially adjusting the angle). Slowly (over sessions) I get stronger on the moves, knows the technique perfectly, and are able to send it. It felt more specific then adding easier holds, and works when I do not have someone for power spotting.
Great question. Yes, we do. Often we will do climbs at 40 and then 45 and 50, 60 etc. This one is actually harder at 40 for Alex as it exaggerates the distance. The flip side to increasing the angle means you have to hold a bigger swing. Regardless, most of the time, what you said is very tru and great practice. Occasionally, you'll find a climb is easier at a steeper angle. We'll be filming a board climbing session soon. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for showing ur weaknesses. I don't like these style walls as much either. I have seen ppl break bones. And scraping skin off a wall ain't so fun etiher. So better safe than sorry. And a healthy pace is gud.
Yep, that’s what “we” typically fear. The worst-case scenario. But taking these progressive steps certainly allow us to address our weaknesses and fears! Thanks for watching
Just discovered the channel. Really nice energy and so educative also ! Alex may I ask how you injured your ankle ? Just trying to apply good practice to avoid injuries, even if I imagine that sometimes, people just get unlucky.
Ahh, thanks for watching! Glad you came to join our page! Well, we caught ecoli in Mexico and came back to the US. We were walking our dog and I rolled it on nothing. Fully ruptured one ligament and tore a few others. But it’s getting better!!
I totally feel Alex's fear after this injury. 6 weeks ago I tore two of my ankle ligaments, started climbing after about two weeks and it worked pretty well. I tried bouldering a week ago and was super afraid to fall. I think, it'll take time to trust your body again. I heard, it takes about 6 months until this injuries heals completely. I miss bouldering so much 😅
🗽 It's interesting for me to see such a strong climber as Alex Puccio to struggle a bit with the more modern boulder coordination moves. Yes, these moves are more injury risky, because you cannot control the falls so good. As a pro or even advanced climber or if you are younger (injuries heal in shorter time) you have to take that risk... see the fall: 0:12 Three week ago we had a not so experienced girl after a fall with forward slant with an elbow dislocation. .
Yep, it’s because of the injury risk. I’ve had two ACL, MCL, LCL and meniscus surgeries, spinal fusion etc…all because of these movements. So now, rock is far more rewarding for me, with less risk involved.
@@roapcoaching917 Wow, that is a lot! My last injury was a lateral ligament injury in the knee from bouldering. Three meniscus OPs, but not from climbing. Take care... injuries are no fun!
Haha! I did when getting ready for comps. This looked like most of my sessions! Every session, we go around the circuits and warm-up progressively. Almost every session I’ll flash the “harder” climbs. V11s, 12s, etc, but climbs like this one stop me. I’ll then spend a good hour (or more, and even multiple sessions) overcoming these fears. Yes, I’ll climb other climbs too, but I truly try to battle the things that stop me!
It's really nice to see high level climbers being so humble and going through the process of self coaching. Very helpful!
The beauty of our sport is we all go through the same struggles! Thanks for watching
We hope you enjoy this video, it was fun to make. A key point to remember is that training your weaknesses is hard. Especially for younger climbers. You have to ensure they get positive reinforcement or they may associate a bad session with being a bad person. The younger brain is fascinating. Therefore if you are taking your kids climbing or you coach younger climbers, ensure that working your weaknesses is mixed in with their strengths. Also, when working their weaknesses, give a lot of positive reinforcement when they make even the smallest amount of progression.
This can be said for newer climbers too.
We don't want all of our sessions to be filled with falling and no tops, or you'll stop climbing. But once you get to grips with this concept, it will change your climbing more positively than anything else.
All of the top athletes in the world get encouraged by failure. You'll note Alex P saying 'I want it'(!) at 19:03. This is an example. Not getting shut down, or letting the ego move on to an easier climb that she will top.
The very best climbers fail on single moves of their projects hundreds and hundreds of times before success. Just remember that when you fall off the first move of a climb in your gym and then think about moving on...
We hope you enjoy it and let us know your thoughts!
I think Alex Waterhouse just needs to start his own youtube channel. It's always great to see him pop up in climbing video
We said the same!! ALLLEEEEXXXX!!! @waterhouseclimbs
his climbing and insights are very good. he is able to understand every concept of why something work or dosnt and then always explain very clearly.
I don't have any weaknesses, I only have strengths, some of which are more maxed out than others
Haha - work on the less maxed out ones then!
Found the glass half full guy, I’m jealous
Apparently I have a weakness for women with arms like that
I find it utterly refreshing and encouraging to see a member of the Climbing Royalty (and coach!!), Her Royal Highness Alex I, trying, failing, and repeating countless times until they manage the boulder (or not), just like us, mere mortals … 😉 Something one hardly ever sees, especially in this time and age, when everyone is so desperately trying to live their absolute best life on social media. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you so much! I, like many, used to only share the “highs”, but found it false and myself less relatable-people assumed I was a different “breed”.
But, the reality is, everyone fails. The beauty of our sport is, we all go through the same struggles. Learning how to deal with failure and use it as motivation rather than frustration is the key.
But I really appreciate the kind words. More coming soon! (Tomorrow actually) A
Thank you Alex & Robin for this honest and open video. Big thank you to Alex for addressing this issue & showing us „your weakness“. Not everyone would it do public. And Robin: this time the volume with music & sound was perfect!!! You guys are doing a great job.
Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed us, thanks for watching and we appreciate the feedback!
I have so much respect for Alex as a climber. What I love about this video is that I can see that we all have limits. Mine are different than hers (yeah, light years different) but the feelings and doubts😮 that come up when I face them are something we share.
☺️ aww, thank you so much! Yes, we absolutely all have our limitations. I have found that knowing these, accepting these and addressing these (when you have the mental capacity) is crucial.
I get stubborn on these kind of climbs. IF they’re super risky, I won’t bother why more, but if I just don’t have the confidence, I will push, push and push (progressively) to get better at “that” specific weakness
Great to see you practice what you preach about checking your ego at the door! Alex being a highly decorated competition climber not being afraid to show her weakness on a lower grade. Great content Alex!
Yes!! Exactly. I really wanted to show that people see me in “my element”, but it takes a lot of “this” to get there! Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Best episode so far, always good to see Waterhouse
Ahhh, glad you liked it! Yes, he’s a ball of energy! Thanks for watching.
When Alex joined, he just brought in a completely different approach, both cognitively and emotionally. I think there are very few things you can do on your own to emulate witnessing this mastery right in front of your eyes. It immediately became much less scary - even fun - and there was a clear path forward.
For sure! He’s so energetic and enthusiastic with incredible PMA!
This is such an awesome collab! The camaraderie and chemistry between Alex P and Alex W is so wholesome and I had so much fun watching this video!
Ahhh, thank you! I was filming it and smiling the whole time! The best thing about it was it was unplanned. Alex and I started making this film and then after Alex W turned up, we thought he could be in it. But the red section was so good, we switched me out for him! Thanks for watching!
Hey ROAP Coaching, this was better content! Alex was more authentic, and watching her actually problem solve in real time rather than just demonstrate is more valuable to watch. Keep the quality content coming!
Ahhh, thanks for saying so!! We’ll definitely be adding more “personality” to our videos!!
🗽The male Alex is amazing. I have seen him also on the rock. He is so good at dynamic movements, like flying. 👍
.
He’s sooo good at dynamic and comp-style!
I really enjoyed this video. It's always nice to hear people talk about their weaknesses, and how you can deal with them. Very motivating
Thank you!!! Yes, I wanted to show that everyone has something they are scared of, or something that holds them back!
Alex is great coach. Beauty of climbing for me is that it doesn't matter if you climb V1 or V14, it is still just as fun, just problems are different.
Exactly that! Climbing is fun, sometimes we need to remind ourselves that when we are beating ourselves up! But, movement is medicine!
Yeahhh new video and how can it be so relatable and motivating. I also injured my ankle recently from slipping off a volume. And the fear is now there when I get back bouldering. I’ll definitely try the slower move that Alex mentioned in the video.
Sorry to hear you hurt your ankle too. Take it slowly and use other holds for climbs like this to begin with. But once you have the all clear from your physics, definitely try to push yourself to address these fears! Good luck and let us know how you get on! Thanks for watching!
@@roapcoaching917 yesss and other holds! Thank you again for the video 🙌🏼
You're more than welcome!
Fascinating to watch the process. Now I don’t feel so bad about my sessions. Thank you 🙏
Never feel bad about it! We all have weaknesses and many professionals are like this too.
Acknowledge the weakness.
Accept it.
Address it progressively, at your pace, but always push yourself. We always think “others are watching”, but it shouldn’t matter to anyone how you perform on your climbs. Thanks for watching!!!
Anyone else absolutely HATE when they put these HUGE holds / volumes at the bottom of the wall under vertical hard problems? Like dude I dont want to project with an object below me....
Yes!!! No-one likes that!
Really nice tips (like the run-and-jump start for the coordination move), I'm gonna try it for sure! One thing I can say as a psychologist is, *don't use food as rewards*! When food need to be deserved it can become very tricky (for progression and wellbeing) for a super long list of reasons!
Yes, let us know how you get on!
The 30/70% concept is a good idea. I just set myself a goal to do certain amount of routes that i don't like and after half a year i can suddenly do decent coordination dinos. Though still the simpler ones, but way better then before.
Also asked myself what Alex W does now these days. Now i know a bit more. Still waiting for a new shorts in his shop.
There you go!!! It’s the best way to become a well-rounded climber! Yes, he owns a hold company called compact. Great holds!
I really like your videos! Will you also make videos on how to improve lead climbing?
Absolutely! We’ll probably rent some gym after hours to do it with the best set-up. Fear of falling etc! Thanks for the suggestion and watching!
Super fun (and instructional) video to watch. Looking forward to the next session of practicing and playing with moves that are hard for me.
Out of curiosity regarding that hard kilter move. Do you vary the angle when working moves like these? I have found it extremely helpful to train strength on a route/move on the kilter with progressive overloading (by essentially adjusting the angle). Slowly (over sessions) I get stronger on the moves, knows the technique perfectly, and are able to send it. It felt more specific then adding easier holds, and works when I do not have someone for power spotting.
Great question. Yes, we do. Often we will do climbs at 40 and then 45 and 50, 60 etc. This one is actually harder at 40 for Alex as it exaggerates the distance. The flip side to increasing the angle means you have to hold a bigger swing. Regardless, most of the time, what you said is very tru and great practice. Occasionally, you'll find a climb is easier at a steeper angle. We'll be filming a board climbing session soon. Thanks for watching!
nice relaxed video, very relatable. we've all been there, struggling on our anti-style even though its half a dozen grades below our usual 😃😃
Exactly!! We thought it would be a nice vibe for weaknesses! Thanks for the comment and watching!
Thank you so much for showing ur weaknesses. I don't like these style walls as much either. I have seen ppl break bones. And scraping skin off a wall ain't so fun etiher. So better safe than sorry. And a healthy pace is gud.
Yep, that’s what “we” typically fear. The worst-case scenario. But taking these progressive steps certainly allow us to address our weaknesses and fears! Thanks for watching
I like how Alex W. was showing to Alex what is she doing wrong and managed to stick the move every time it made me laugh so hard :D
Haha! I know! Such an instinctive mover!
Whats the name of that Kilterboulder you struggled on Alex?
It’s called King James (V11 I think) @50 degrees
@@roapcoaching917 thank you
Just discovered the channel. Really nice energy and so educative also !
Alex may I ask how you injured your ankle ? Just trying to apply good practice to avoid injuries, even if I imagine that sometimes, people just get unlucky.
Ahh, thanks for watching! Glad you came to join our page! Well, we caught ecoli in Mexico and came back to the US.
We were walking our dog and I rolled it on nothing. Fully ruptured one ligament and tore a few others. But it’s getting better!!
@roapcoaching917 that figures.
I just subscribed to your channel too.
5:50 is it only me that hears fart-like sound?
Haha, maybe ;)
Why should I train comp style boulders if my goal is climbing an outside multipitch?
Valid!!
I totally feel Alex's fear after this injury. 6 weeks ago I tore two of my ankle ligaments, started climbing after about two weeks and it worked pretty well. I tried bouldering a week ago and was super afraid to fall. I think, it'll take time to trust your body again. I heard, it takes about 6 months until this injuries heals completely. I miss bouldering so much 😅
It can be so scary! Even when you’re a foot off the floor! Make progressive steps and try to overcome the fear! You got this.
Is there a reason the other red hold was ignored?
Proved not to be useful. Call it a “red herring” ;)
@@roapcoaching917 ah interesting :)
i think fistbumps in climbing is overrated, a solid chalky high-five like 13:38 is so crispy
Haha! Bring back the high 5!
I had no idea Alex W moved to the US. But it's a shame that Denver is about as far from New York as the UK is.
Well, very recently!
That type of problem just screams broken ankle at me 😂
Exactly what goes through my mind sometimes too! These steps help me overcome that and other fears!
🗽 It's interesting for me to see such a strong climber as Alex Puccio to struggle a bit with the more modern boulder coordination moves. Yes, these moves are more injury risky, because you cannot control the falls so good. As a pro or even advanced climber or if you are younger (injuries heal in shorter time) you have to take that risk... see the fall: 0:12
Three week ago we had a not so experienced girl after a fall with forward slant with an elbow dislocation.
.
Yep, it’s because of the injury risk. I’ve had two ACL, MCL, LCL and meniscus surgeries, spinal fusion etc…all because of these movements.
So now, rock is far more rewarding for me, with less risk involved.
@@roapcoaching917 Wow, that is a lot! My last injury was a lateral ligament injury in the knee from bouldering. Three meniscus OPs, but not from climbing.
Take care... injuries are no fun!
Definitely not! You too
They’re not weaknesses. I call them uniquenesses
Uniqueness! We all have it hey!
Alex, don't lie to us, you aren't jumping around 70% of the time
Haha! I did when getting ready for comps. This looked like most of my sessions!
Every session, we go around the circuits and warm-up progressively. Almost every session I’ll flash the “harder” climbs. V11s, 12s, etc, but climbs like this one stop me. I’ll then spend a good hour (or more, and even multiple sessions) overcoming these fears.
Yes, I’ll climb other climbs too, but I truly try to battle the things that stop me!