Coach Analyses PRO Vs Intermediate Technique ft. Alex Puccio
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ต.ค. 2023
- In a climbing coaching special episode, Robin O’Leary, performance coach at @roapcoaching917 analyses two climbers. Head to squarespace.com/hannahmorris to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hannahmorris.
Robin uncovers the key differences and contrasts in climbing technique and performance between Hannah Morris, a V7 climber and Alex Puccio, a V14 climber.
Alex Puccio is a professional climber and one of the strongest American climbers in the history of the sport. She is the most accomplished female American bouldering athlete, having taken gold at National Championships 9 times. She was the 4th woman to climb V14 and the hallmark of her climbing is her incredibly efficient and powerful climbing style.
Hannah is an amateur climber, climbing in the intermediate grade range. She tends to prefer a static, slow style of climbing, and often struggles to unlock powerful, fast and confident movement.
Inspired by Louis Parkinson comparison to a intermediate climber, I set out to run my own comparison against one of the best women climbers in the world. Here's Louis' video.
☞ • What's The Difference ...
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After a bouldering session at Movement Baker, Robin was able to compare the differences in technique from two very different climbers over two very different styles of boulder. What resulted was a unique exercise in comparison, helping to highlight the strengths and techniques needed to climb at the elite level.
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Watch out everyone - Robin’s got his protractor out and he’s got his eye on those directional forces. Two amazing guests :)
🤓 haha
Yeah!!! What a pleasure it was to have this session with you! Psyched to see you guys again in December!
Psyched! Miss climbing with you both ☺️
This really helped me see how you can successfully complete a climb, but still technically have a ton of things to improve.
Right! I’ve been trying to switch my mindset from thinking done means I never should do it again. You can definitely learn so much from repeating and fine tuning. ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Yeah man, after trying really hard on a tough climb and finally finishing it, you just want to run away and avoid that fear of failing it.
I hope you enjoy this comparative analysis of Alex and I. If you want more coaching content from Robin and Alex, make sure to follow them over at the ROAP TH-cam channel :)
Yowza
Holy cow. I don't know if you see it when looking back on your climbing in retrospect but your climbing has taken a noticeable, qualitative change in the past year! The way you move lately shows so much commitment and decisiveness!
I was thinking the same thing watching this video! Go, Hannah!
Wow, that’s so much! It’s really nice to hear that you can notice a difference, I don’t think I always see the change day by day! ☺️🤩
Thank you so much 💪☺️
Love these comparison style analysis videos! So helpful
Glad you find them helpful 💫
Wow Hannah, this was an amazing video. Your climbing has got so strong, which also means that you have the ability to gain a lot from this kind of side by side comparison. Robin and Alex seem like great coaches.
Thank you so much! They're excellent coaches, and working with both of them together is such a valuable experience as they each have their own methods and opinions. Super interesting :)
already psyched for the next episode! love this format and especially the video analysis
Really glad you enjoyed the episode ☺️
Great bouldering content, but this content also reveals what a great person I think you are. :) I think it takes a lot of humility and courage to be as open to coaching as you are, and to use yourself as the "what not to do" example in a lot of cases. I really appreciate your attitude. For those of us who struggle with perfectionism such as myself, I really, REALLY admire this about you so much! Thank you, as always, for the amazing content.
Thank you! That really means a lot to me. I’ve been catching a bit of stik lately for my unsure or timid attitude when I’m climbing, but hopefully it does come through that I’m constantly pushing my comfort zone and that’s what makes climbing so cool - it demands that you don’t feel too good for anything and always have a learners mindset. Thanks for your comment! ☺️
Great video, Hannah, and great climbing from you. Alex has a core of steel, and she uses it to her advantage. The more I climb, the more I come to the conclusion that core strength is 80% to 90% of success with the progress since it is the core that keeps our extremities together and connects muscle chains.
I need to do more core, then! For real though, it makes a big difference for a lot of moves, and you can see Alex really control her lower body through the overhang especially.
That was a Brilliant analysis video of climbing movement, Robin is so good at explaining the nuances and subtleties of climbing
Really glad you enjoyed it. Robin’s way of coaching and explaining principles made so much sense to me! ☺️
Been looking forward to these videos! Really interesting, can't wait for more :D
Glad you enjoyed them! I’m psyched for the USA videos to start going out 🤩
This was an amazing video! I learned so much from the comparisons. Thank you for such good content! ❤
That’s really great to hear, you’re very welcome! 🫶
That was so informative! I kept playing it back. Looking forward to the next one.
Great to hear. The next one is really cool - a very different project and lots of interesting stuff highlighted. Thanks for watching! ☺️
Lovely video analysis! Really appreciated how it's not just technique and style but also confidence, gaze patterns and offensive vs defensive climbing 😊
Glad you enjoyed it! Robins analysis was really comprehensive and helped me to see some hallmarks of my own climbing that I wasn’t super aware of already!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Yes, thank you Hannah for making these videos. The comprehensiveness of Robin's analysis, and whoever's idea it was to compare your and Alex's climbing, really help see how we can improve our climbing as well. Please make more of this kind of videos.
Wow thank you for this well cut content! Really helpful for my climbing as well.
You are so welcome!
Will enjoy watching this video after a long day!! Thank you Hannah 🤩
Hope you enjoy! 🤗✨
Thanks for putting youself in the position where people are constantly comparing you with other advanced climbers and looking at the slightest mistakes that you make. I know that it is the way to learn but must be really intimidating! Thanks for doing that ON CAMERA for all of us to learn.
I really appreciate that! It’s been so valuable to my climbing to be taught by some of the best climbers in the game, but sometimes it is easy to forget that not EVERYONE is elite level 😅
Great video, so interesting to watch this analysis
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really useful comparison and analysis, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very educational video. Thank you
Hope it’s helpful 🥳
Great episode, so interesting to see side by side. It's making me think about how I climb a lot!
Really glad you enjoyed it 😎
Love this kind of content!
Glad to hear it 😅
What a nice video! Excited for the next one
Thanks! Hope you enjoy the next one too 🤗
Great video! Please make more videos Like this!!
Loved this analysis video! There's so much to take away from and try on the wall. Not feeling ready yet to film myself though. Thank you for your content!
Hope there’s some useful tips and tricks for you to apply to your own climbing ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering loads!
Great video. Super helpful. I'm an intermediate climber like Hannah. I'm going to video myself on the 45 degree wall and see what my body positioning looks like. Now I know what to look for and work for.
Glad it was helpful! Hope you pick up some handy tips from watching yourself back :)
super helpful video!
Great content as always
Thank you!
Great video! I would have loved to see the overhang problem but you do the version you did and Alex did the exact same but with terrible holds! Thanks, learned a lot I think :D
Glad to hear it :)
I really love how much power Alex throws behind each big move. She loads all of her power before she’s left the hold instead of trying to force power through after she‘s above her set hold.
I think since men and women on average have higher vs lower centers of gravity, it's so helpful to watch experienced women climb. Alex is so good at using hip and lower body momentum, to take the strain off the upper body, watching her, especially in comparison videos is really helping me improve!
Just got home from climbing and I did film myself, I can't agree more, it helps a ton !
That’s so cool to hear, hope you had a fab session 🥰
It's good to see you've regained your confidence
Depends on the day it seems, but feeling pretty good headgame wise atm 🥳
Great video analysis, learned so much !! Looking forward to the next one !
It would be interesting to see what Alex does when challenged as much as you on strength. As it was also pointed out by Robin, she is obviously stronger and she uses also that. Not sure how it could be done, though. Maybe same climb on a system board but on steeper angle for Alex?
Glad you enjoyed it! Great suggestion :)
Intro was clean ngl
Anyone spotted Megos doppelganger in the background at 13:22? Epic content yet again Hannah, you've really fine tuned your style of content and how you want to deliver it and its very very digestible! Love it!
Hahah yep! I thought somebody might spot that in the comments. Really great to hear you like the content :)
5:06 😊
5:16 😢
Hahaha, I didn't even notice it at first 😂
One thing that's annoying to me about these comparison videos is that they dont usually account for the fact that you two are completely different body types. Alex is tiny. Unless you're equally tiny, you're not going to climb the same. This is true for anyone looking to mimic another climber. 0:35 is a good point. Hannah has to be much more scrunched up with her right leg to keep her hips in the wall, whereas Alex is in a much more comfortable box because her limbs and torso are shorter.
It’s not an exact science for sure, but I do think it’s still interesting to compare two similar sizes. Alex and I aren’t that far off in height really, though I do appreciate it does make a difference!
This whole video was awesome but I was so distracted by just seeing Hannah at my local gym lol I hope you enjoyed your time in Colorado!
Haha we LOVED our time in CO! I hope we’ll be back soon ☺️
Hannah Morris Bouldering and ROAP Coaching are the two go to channels for learning technique. Extra good in tandem.
That’s great to know! ROAP are killing it with the coaching content lately!
I thought this was a really interesting video. Thank you for doing it as I am sure that its not easy having some show you were you are not doing things correct.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Great vid !
Thanks 🤩
great video, I'm gonna have to start recording myself! i would love to see both climbs in full side by side with pause as needed to allow the other video to catch up
That's a good idea!
This was really good and engaging analysis. The video was over and I didn’t even realize I’d been watching for 23 minutes. Felt like no time at all.
Thank you so much - really glad you enjoyed it 😀
Great breakdown
Thank you!
Most useful climbing channel on TH-cam, thanks Hannah!
Wow, thank you! Means a lot to me 😎
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I've never found a single source with as many professional perspectives as your channel, you're kickin absolute ass in the content department. Honestly, I'm grateful for all the effort you put in, everyone who watches your channel should be as well. Cheers!
I’m not sure whether or not this has been discussed or not the comments already, BUT on the 2nd climb, do you think Alex’s beta would have worked for you? I think both of you climbed it in a way that suits your style and of course Alex was able to float up the boulder, perhaps using an extra bit of power, but what if this was actually hard for you? Would you still be able to climb it like Alex?
Super interesting!
Glad you think so!
Nice video. However, being a physicist, Robin absolutely drives me up the wall everytime he says "directional force". Force is always directional! 😂
U got a good ratio of climbing to commentary in this vid
Glad to hear it 🥰
Alex can do whatever she likes in these "easy" boulders, so I wouldn't focus on her beta too much, but more on her general movement patterns. Main takeaway: Get them apple bottom jeans and stay low, spring from the legs and lead with the hips.
5:14 teleporting puppy!
Hehe, star appearance!
@@hannahmorrisboulderingwhat is the pretty aussie's name?
I think you are a lot better than you think you are. Your videos are great, but it does feel like you’re being constantly critiqued in your videos do you think that might contributing to your headspace issues?
I feel overall the coaching and constructive critique is definitely a benefit to my climbing. Climbing with people far more knowledgable and strong has developed my understanding of my movement and the gaps in my climbing- sometimes it can warp my perspective of how much I do know or what strong looks like relative to the entire climbing community/ my own progress, but generally, I feel really lucky to get as much feedback as I do. :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering You are very lucky in that sense. Most climbers would give up a ton for the mentors and tutoring you've had! Keep up the great work!!! We've seen a huge improvement in your climbing throughout the videos
Love how after (in the narrative of the video) two attempts on the first boulder Hannah looks like she crawled inside a chalk bag 😂
I don’t understand how people don’t look covered all the time ☺️🤩 I think I must be a nervous chalker!
All rock stars!!
🤩🤩🤩
Keep this pro vs int series going.
More to come!!☺️
Alex cuts for fun, she cuts for fun, she cuts for fuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnn
Movement baker? Been there a few times!
Sure is! Great gym ☺️
I like the idea of this episode, but it's going to be near impossible to glean any real technique differences between the two climbers. Alex is like 8 grades stronger than Hannah, and that strength difference is going to account for nearly every difference in their climbing.
I'd like to see this idea but with a climber closer in range to Hannah.
I would like to have a gym like that to really improve my Climbing 😢, anyway i enyoi your videos, i hope climb with you someday❤
Thanks so much, glad you enjoy the videos, keep crushing 🤩
This video was awesome and it made me laugh how you were progressively covered in more chalk as it went on lol
Glad you enjoyed :)
O shoot! I think this my home gym. Baker, right?
That’s right! We loved our session there ☺️
how'd you end up at my home gym?
Long way from home! We loved it 🤗
Bolt holes are off always
I reckon you can bend the rules
What we now need is a comparison between 2 guys. hahaha, cause the way guys and girls climb are usually very different.
I reckon a comparison between Nathan and Robin world be interesting, or Nathan and Alex for size comparison and how that changes your climbing style and habits :)
v4 max
Looool, a classic
I see Alex I click
2:09 switch foots, left foot higher, also left hand higher, then right foot higher. Oh okay pro climber showed it, sorry XD
Alex was cheating and using the bolt hole.
Nooo. We always appreciate a bolt hole 😎
V7 haha
??
@@hannahmorrisbouldering sorry
I could have sworn he refers to himself as Hannah’s boyfriend and then calls Alex his wife later on?
Telling a v6 climber that the holds are better when you are below them ☠️
Cool video, I learned if I wanna get on Alex's level I gotta work on my technique, train hard and take steroids
Just the first two. Lotta hard work and dedication 💪
Alex needs to just go back to wherever she was at for the last two years. Go panhandle somewhere else.