Great video first off. Just a FYI for anyone installing this into a custom screen printed case with custom glass lens that is not bigger, The screen still looks nice. you will notice the game will run under the bezel but it's not that bad. you still get a slightly larger screen because of how the original screen was slightly inset from the lens window.
finally picked up a DMG that has a buggy screen, it feels like it's been kept in a box. The shell is better color condition than the one I've had a while now. Almost a shame to alter it for the v4, but then again, giving these a new lease on life is the goal.
For a more intensive inspection of the D-Pad circuitry, I'd probably want to use a shoot'em up to test it. While I don't have the DMG and replacement front PCB's, the three Pockets I own (which, as far as I know, have their original rubber pads and D-pads) have vastly different D-pad feels, especially if I rock the D-pad to move the plane in circles in Nemesis/Gradius. I can only smoothly move the plane in circles in one of the Pockets, while to achieve the same movements require a lot more force on the other units.
Mine just arrived! Gonna use your vid as a tutorial of sorts ^_^. I assume if I bought the shell with it I dont need to trim it but we'll see. This really looks super easy, nothing compared to replacing an ags-101 with an (early) Ips v2
The board doesn't have access to the battery level so it contains a model of the DMGs internal voltage regulator that it uses to guess the battery. this is because the regulators output drops slightly as the batteries are drained.
I love those settings to adjust the screen position. There's been a few times when I might have had the screen too close to one of the edges or it was slightly off. With these settings, you wouldn't really run into that issue. Though I suppose it would go back to factory reset when the batteries are changed.
I Just ordered mine and a gameboy pocket ips screen kit and a bunch of other stuff because of you.... mmmm thanks a lot... money I didn't need to spend.... 😅👍 No but for real thank you nice vid..
I noticed the clear tab on the top right of your IPS display behind the lens as you were running the tests, looks like you forgot to remove the protective layer from the screen?
Forgot? No. But yes, I did not remove the plastic film. Spoiler alert, but I tend to go back inside these GBs and clean up my installs after the video or even take them apart entirely. No sense making the video 20 minutes longer than it needs to be while I sit there with the canned air and microfiber cloth.
great work makho ! One question, is Pixel effect exactly the same as Retro pixel effect on FP kit since it is identical LCD screen ? Ofcourse, comparing on the same exact palette (color and brightness same on both kit). Thanks in advance
I installed a kit from a AliExpress and it came with a simple alignment plastic cutouts, when I installed it was about 1 pixel out of alignment - once you see it, you can’t unsee it.
Hard to understand what you are trying to say. What are "alignment plastic cutouts"? Why is one pixel out of alignment an issue? That's what the position setting is for.
great work makho ! One question, what kind of measuring device did you use? Can you please tell me the make and model of this device? Thanks in advance
Measuring device? Like my power supply? That's a MDP-XP: retrogamerepairshop.com/products/mdp-xp-mini-digital-programmable-power-supply-set-with-30v-5a-90w-2-4g-wireless-connection-2-8-inch-tft-screen
Thank you SO much! Was really helpful to see someone else do this build and follow along. One question: I have everything back together, works well and looks great ... BUT ... the D-pad isn't responding. I have to lean on my thumb with all of my weight to get it to trigger. Any idea what could be causing this and how to solve it?
@@makho Figured it out eventually. The kit was fine. The seller told me that this can happen if the screws are too tight, so I untightened the PCB and case screws near the D-pad - but that didn't help. Along with the kit, I also put in replacement buttons and silicone pads. For some reason, with the replacement D-pad and rubber it didn't work, but I put the original back in and now everything works fine. Weird.
Hi makho - As always, love your vids. I'm curious on a couple things, do you think/know any pieces/parts from the previous revisions of this MOD would work where you might just need the PCB for the screen to connect to get your previous MOD to this version 4? Also, curious if maybe the PCB from the previous MOD is programmable, where this updated MOD could be flashed onto the previous version PCB to get it to this version 4? I'm guessing no to the flashing of the previous PCB, but curious on your thoughts. Thanks! :-)
Ok, so basically, instead of trimming the shell inside like on V2 and V3 RIPS, now we don't need to do that, but we do have to trim the frame? And is that screen cover also custom with bigger viewing area? Thanks for another cool educational video. :)
@@makho Nah, I like to mod GameBoys, was just curious. Thank you. :) Keep up the good work with these videos, I love to learn new stuff or see different approaches to same mods.
This is a really cool new version of this mod. It also looked like at the beginning you were moving the image around with your fingers, was that just my wishful thinking?
Very nice video! Tho I am going to go with the V3 because I prefer the original size of the screen. I am a little disappointed at the color palletes.... 😒 they just seem like over kill. Not close in gradient to the original. Perhaps there is a screen replacement with better palletes but is true to the original size? Thoughts? I am useing this gameboy for my nanoloop mono cartridge ;)
> with better palletes You do realize that the palettes are programmable with this kit, right? The ones I showed are just the factory ones, you can replace them with whatever palettes you want. And regarding the screen size, I think you're making a mistake there. In this particular case, there is plenty of room so bigger is better since the console is still the same size.
makho yes I realize that the V3 isn’t as big and does not have the programmable palletes. Idk why I’m stuck on the idea of having the original screen size 🤔 You have a point tho the V4’s larger screen is much easier on the eyes. I have another DMG so, I think I’ll take your advice and go for the V4 for that second DMG! 👍
Awesome video! How did you find out what color number values to use for your "pea soup" gameboy green? I'm trying to find how I can make one which looks like an original gameboy pocket. I'm sure I could just mess with the sliders until I get something which looks close, but if you have a place where you found out how to do DMG green, I'm wondering if there is someone who has figured out how to do pockets or other variations.
I haven't messed with the colors too much. If I made a combo in the video, you'll have to pause and look at the values I set. I don't recall off hand and I already reset my kit.
how does the rgb picker function? i have seen 0-31 pickers before however green is 0-63 and just green is... this has been making it difficult to make the palettes i actually want and just doubling the value originally written on my list does not help
makho, I've just had one of these installed and it's great, but the speaker sound is now noticeably thinner with no body. do you know why that would be...? no change in speaker and no amplifier installed, but the power board has also been replaced with a retrosix CleanPower v2 DMG. also do you know where the speaker amplifier is on a DMG...? is it on the front board (screen and control board) as the speaker wires are soldered to it...? if so, that would make sense as to why the speaker sound is worse...
@@makho yeah, since found out that it doesn't even work with fully charged NiMh batteries with that power board installed, yet works with dying Alkalines. Why would that be...? Is that company just full of shit...? What power board, amplifier board (with installation instructions for mono-summed speaker sound) and speaker would you recommend...? My motherboard is a DMG-CPU-06 and I do use a 2014 Everdrive GB on it as well, which I'm planning to replace with a brand new X7.
@@RWL2012 yes, they are totally full of shit. Don't support them: old.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/ktbgnf/retrosix_is_stealing_other_peoples_work_and/ Just use OEM parts where you can.
@@makho thanks for that, and for taking the time to reply and sorry for any chase-ups before... so the original power board is going back in. I've found a speaker that seems like it will work well, but I do want to power it with an aftermarket amp board. is there anything you can recommend...? doesn't look like I'll be getting a GBamp anytime soon, and the amp I have is the CleanAmp v1.1 from our favourite company retrosix, which they very helpfully told me to "wire this wire to this instead of that" to get mono-summed sound into the speaker rather than the right channel only, because they couldn't be bothered to update the installation guide.
Left button dosen't work still gose to swap the full PCB. what was the point getting another gameboy when your switching the PCB anyways that fixes your issue Either way
Awesome vid - I grabbed and installed one of these recently. The up on my d-pad does not work and my start button is finicky as well. I may just have a bad unit...hopefully RGRS will reply to my ticket. RIPS v3 kit I had before this didn't have any of these issues. I could've probably overlooked the start button, but up is pretty important lol. Tried reseating, and loosening/tightening the screws, still getting the same problem. I really do hope its just a bad unit I got - because the screen is awesome and the battery meter is a killer feature for me.
i scrape the blade with a bit of pressure backwords over the plastic when trimmed, it removes all those little sharp bits. ps you need to give us a run down on that psu. it looks nice but prices ive seen are way high
I've gone into it in the comments but basically it's a neat little unit. You pay a premium for the size but the features are about on par with the larger units. It's good for someone who has very little space for something like this but otherwise the bigger, cheaper units are probably better. It's also good for someone like me who does these tests on camera and saves me the hassle of setting up another camera to cut in to my videos or to make a remote display.
This kit retro pixel mode is it same with funnyplaying one will have the glitch line? I saw some reviews about OSD retro pixel mode is better than FP. Do you think will it fit retromodding design bracket because “one chip” design bracket is suck since RIPS v2 ,the RM design bracket same Q5 screen but place location not same.
Still iffy on RIPS since they promised better button input for the V3 and that did not end up being the case for me; In fact the V3 button board was even less responsive with the A and B buttons compared to the V2 button board.
I bought a v3 like a few months ago and while I did like the brightness settings to be as low as possible, some button presses are not as responsive as one might think - probably because of how large the contacts are. I'm still waiting on someone who would buy it from me.
I understand that some people are having problems but I genuinely don't get it. I've had zero issues with any of the boards when it comes to button inputs (except that one time when I used a really shitty dpad combined with a really shitty membrane but swapping both out for OEM parts resolved my issue).
Hi I am beginner Of soldering Just want to know What solder That you use So I can buy it What's the number In size and everything and Flux And solder what's inside doesn't corrode the board what do you clean it off After your done Soldering What's the best solder and flux Used in the video
If you search MDP-XP, you should find a few vendors. This one was a sample from the manufacturer. It's nice and works great for me but I don't think the vendor who sent it my way is going to be stocking them.
@@DasAntiNaziBroetchen yes, literally. RGRS started stocking products from that vendor and they sent him one of everything. He sent me a few things to play with.
Hey man, after I have done the mode the gameboy volumen is too low what was the cause do I need to buy a new speakers or it’s because to the screen board ?? Thanks in advance
@@makho I see that makes sense. I ask a question in your SP headphone jack video when you get a chance :) Just wondering which pin out method is better. thank you
I just built one but was wondering if you had any issues closing up the new housing etc? Mine doesn't close flush and I can feel some kind of bulging pressure toward the bottom of the screen. The screen and new board assembly feels super flush, it's only when I combine the two halves of the Gameboy that the pressure is caused. I've tried reassembling it many times and can't figure out what's obstructing it.
I have not had any issues. Gotta make sure you trimmed everything that you need to trim and that there are not any errant screws or other parts in a place they should not be.
Hey makho what's up man how are you doing? I just ordered this kit, and am really anxious to get it working :D Gonna watch your video on it now (maybe should have done that beforehand)
yeah, the picture is obviously all but the menu color does not change: cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/246604458744610816/765755868406218762/20201013_190002.jpg
I am 20 minutes into this video and have yet to hear that cat boi yellin for attention. This is not what I signed up for! (jk obvs good work as always)
I installed this kit over the weekend, and when my gameboy does screen resets now (exiting out of menus in Pokemon, or changing overworlds in Wario Land) there is some weird artifacting on the right side of the screen. Its sort of like a scan line that move down from the middle of the screen. Any idea what could cause this?
@@makho i heard you say that in one of your videos before, so i tried that but still have the issue, so I contacted the distributor to see if they knew what was going on. Im waiting to hear back from them
the image cannot be scaled without using a different LCD. If you don't want to trim, just use a different kit. That being said, the trim is very minimal.
Hi Makho, I just installed the OSD V4 ips kit. I found the front (button) PCB is far too thick compared to the original. This cause some real problems: buttons do note respond as they should; Is impossible to close the shell in a proper way, once closed the shell is a bit bended. Did you have the same issues, do you know any solutions? does exist a thinner front pcb suitable for this kit ( I also have the Funnyplaying and for me is on another level of precision, also the molded bracket is far better and precise. well any advise is welcome. thx in advance
makho, how about Fundraising money (donations to you), so you can buy 4K camera and make all of us happy subscribers of yours ? Full HD is very good, but 4K with decent camera would be really a leap for mankind :) Greets from France !
@@GizmoTheGreen I imagine it's some kind of collection of ahegao pics. I've seen some screenshots on aliexpress and ebay seller's listings. Very weird and inappropriate. There's some pic with a girl and one with link.
Welp, now I've bought one of these. And the DMG to install it in. Cheers for the informative video as always!
Great video first off. Just a FYI for anyone installing this into a custom screen printed case with custom glass lens that is not bigger, The screen still looks nice. you will notice the game will run under the bezel but it's not that bad. you still get a slightly larger screen because of how the original screen was slightly inset from the lens window.
I'm planning to do my own video of this install shortly! Just waiting on my kits to come in. Thanks for the detail and your usual candor. ;)
I got mine today ❤️ can’t wait to put it into the new red DMG Shell 😁!
Its been about 7 months since this video was made, and RIPS v4 is still the best DMG IPS kit yet.
that Q5 LCD is one of the best things to happen to GB kits
for those who don't want to scroll all the way back, the code is RGRS10 for 10% off your first order
finally picked up a DMG that has a buggy screen, it feels like it's been kept in a box. The shell is better color condition than the one I've had a while now. Almost a shame to alter it for the v4, but then again, giving these a new lease on life is the goal.
instaBlaster...
Thank you makho for all your tests, i would like a game boy color version (energy consumption,
screen size and positioning)
For a more intensive inspection of the D-Pad circuitry, I'd probably want to use a shoot'em up to test it.
While I don't have the DMG and replacement front PCB's, the three Pockets I own (which, as far as I know, have their original rubber pads and D-pads) have vastly different D-pad feels, especially if I rock the D-pad to move the plane in circles in Nemesis/Gradius. I can only smoothly move the plane in circles in one of the Pockets, while to achieve the same movements require a lot more force on the other units.
There are better shoot'em ups to try this than Nemesis though, like SolarStriker or something. Nemesis runs at a low framerate.
I just wanted to thank you for the very good informational video! I was able to install the new screen and board np. :)
The little dank pod reference ;)
Mine just arrived! Gonna use your vid as a tutorial of sorts ^_^.
I assume if I bought the shell with it I dont need to trim it but we'll see. This really looks super easy, nothing compared to replacing an ags-101 with an (early) Ips v2
My converter board came damaged and 1 tiny black piece was broken.off. contacted the seller and didnt go through with the install :/
Someone's been in here you say. Someone watches a lot of my fellow Aussie DankPods.
The board doesn't have access to the battery level so it contains a model of the DMGs internal voltage regulator that it uses to guess the battery. this is because the regulators output drops slightly as the batteries are drained.
I can't wait I have this and the new pocket one on the way:)
I love those settings to adjust the screen position. There's been a few times when I might have had the screen too close to one of the edges or it was slightly off. With these settings, you wouldn't really run into that issue.
Though I suppose it would go back to factory reset when the batteries are changed.
> Though I suppose it would go back to factory reset when the batteries are changed.
Why would you assume this? It doesn't do that.
I Just ordered mine and a gameboy pocket ips screen kit and a bunch of other stuff because of you.... mmmm thanks a lot... money I didn't need to spend.... 😅👍
No but for real thank you nice vid..
I noticed the clear tab on the top right of your IPS display behind the lens as you were running the tests, looks like you forgot to remove the protective layer from the screen?
Forgot? No. But yes, I did not remove the plastic film. Spoiler alert, but I tend to go back inside these GBs and clean up my installs after the video or even take them apart entirely. No sense making the video 20 minutes longer than it needs to be while I sit there with the canned air and microfiber cloth.
@@makho Fair enough lol, makes sense. Keep it up
great work makho ! One question, is Pixel effect exactly the same as Retro pixel effect on FP kit since it is identical LCD screen ? Ofcourse, comparing on the same exact palette (color and brightness same on both kit). Thanks in advance
yes
I installed a kit from a AliExpress and it came with a simple alignment plastic cutouts, when I installed it was about 1 pixel out of alignment - once you see it, you can’t unsee it.
Hard to understand what you are trying to say. What are "alignment plastic cutouts"? Why is one pixel out of alignment an issue? That's what the position setting is for.
Been waiting for this
Thanks for doing these videos :)
Wow!
I'll never understand the "0-3" numbering - why not 1-4...?
Makho great video as usual! Do you know if Bluish Squirrel make custom lens for that particular size? Thank you
probably, you'd have to ask him
Heckin' awesome!
what I hate about those LCDs is that they drain the batteries faster than the OG
basically any mod does.
thanks for the great vid, just finished mine up! playing pokemon red in green *heart eyes*
great work makho ! One question, what kind of measuring device did you use? Can you please tell me the make and model of this device? Thanks in advance
Measuring device? Like my power supply? That's a MDP-XP: retrogamerepairshop.com/products/mdp-xp-mini-digital-programmable-power-supply-set-with-30v-5a-90w-2-4g-wireless-connection-2-8-inch-tft-screen
The new OSDs get my vote.
Thank you SO much! Was really helpful to see someone else do this build and follow along.
One question: I have everything back together, works well and looks great ... BUT ... the D-pad isn't responding. I have to lean on my thumb with all of my weight to get it to trigger. Any idea what could be causing this and how to solve it?
You should contact the seller of your kit.
@@makho Figured it out eventually.
The kit was fine.
The seller told me that this can happen if the screws are too tight, so I untightened the PCB and case screws near the D-pad - but that didn't help.
Along with the kit, I also put in replacement buttons and silicone pads. For some reason, with the replacement D-pad and rubber it didn't work, but I put the original back in and now everything works fine. Weird.
Hi makho - As always, love your vids. I'm curious on a couple things, do you think/know any pieces/parts from the previous revisions of this MOD would work where you might just need the PCB for the screen to connect to get your previous MOD to this version 4? Also, curious if maybe the PCB from the previous MOD is programmable, where this updated MOD could be flashed onto the previous version PCB to get it to this version 4? I'm guessing no to the flashing of the previous PCB, but curious on your thoughts. Thanks! :-)
the connectors and wiring are different so no. At most, you might be able to reuse the button board but that's it.
Great video once again.!!
Do you know where I can buy it from here in Europe or if I have to, from outside that can ship it to Europe. ?? Thks
Ok, so basically, instead of trimming the shell inside like on V2 and V3 RIPS, now we don't need to do that, but we do have to trim the frame?
And is that screen cover also custom with bigger viewing area?
Thanks for another cool educational video. :)
lens is slightly bigger too, yeah. You can use a stock sized lens but you'll lose a couple rows and columns on the sides.
@@makho Nah, I like to mod GameBoys, was just curious. Thank you. :)
Keep up the good work with these videos, I love to learn new stuff or see different approaches to same mods.
This is a really cool new version of this mod. It also looked like at the beginning you were moving the image around with your fingers, was that just my wishful thinking?
the LCD is loose in the bracket
Very nice video!
Tho I am going to go with the V3 because I prefer the original size of the screen.
I am a little disappointed at the color palletes.... 😒 they just seem like over kill. Not close in gradient to the original. Perhaps there is a screen replacement with better palletes but is true to the original size? Thoughts?
I am useing this gameboy for my nanoloop mono cartridge ;)
> with better palletes
You do realize that the palettes are programmable with this kit, right? The ones I showed are just the factory ones, you can replace them with whatever palettes you want.
And regarding the screen size, I think you're making a mistake there. In this particular case, there is plenty of room so bigger is better since the console is still the same size.
makho yes I realize that the V3 isn’t as big and does not have the programmable palletes. Idk why I’m stuck on the idea of having the original screen size 🤔 You have a point tho the V4’s larger screen is much easier on the eyes. I have another DMG so, I think I’ll take your advice and go for the V4 for that second DMG! 👍
Dankpods? Nice 👌
Is the shell cutting necessary? The funnyplaying kit will require but for this kit you can adjust the position so do you still need to do it?
Still required, yes. Unless you use one of Funnyplaying's new DMG shells
Awesome video! How did you find out what color number values to use for your "pea soup" gameboy green? I'm trying to find how I can make one which looks like an original gameboy pocket. I'm sure I could just mess with the sliders until I get something which looks close, but if you have a place where you found out how to do DMG green, I'm wondering if there is someone who has figured out how to do pockets or other variations.
I haven't messed with the colors too much. If I made a combo in the video, you'll have to pause and look at the values I set. I don't recall off hand and I already reset my kit.
2:42 thats, thats how you get fiberglass splinters hahah
how does the rgb picker function? i have seen 0-31 pickers before however green is 0-63 and just green is... this has been making it difficult to make the palettes i actually want and just doubling the value originally written on my list does not help
makho, I've just had one of these installed and it's great, but the speaker sound is now noticeably thinner with no body. do you know why that would be...? no change in speaker and no amplifier installed, but the power board has also been replaced with a retrosix CleanPower v2 DMG. also do you know where the speaker amplifier is on a DMG...? is it on the front board (screen and control board) as the speaker wires are soldered to it...? if so, that would make sense as to why the speaker sound is worse...
> but the power board has also been replaced with a retrosix CleanPower v2 DMG
there's your problem
@@makho yeah, since found out that it doesn't even work with fully charged NiMh batteries with that power board installed, yet works with dying Alkalines. Why would that be...? Is that company just full of shit...? What power board, amplifier board (with installation instructions for mono-summed speaker sound) and speaker would you recommend...? My motherboard is a DMG-CPU-06 and I do use a 2014 Everdrive GB on it as well, which I'm planning to replace with a brand new X7.
@@RWL2012 yes, they are totally full of shit. Don't support them: old.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/ktbgnf/retrosix_is_stealing_other_peoples_work_and/
Just use OEM parts where you can.
@@makho thanks for that, and for taking the time to reply and sorry for any chase-ups before... so the original power board is going back in. I've found a speaker that seems like it will work well, but I do want to power it with an aftermarket amp board. is there anything you can recommend...?
doesn't look like I'll be getting a GBamp anytime soon, and the amp I have is the CleanAmp v1.1 from our favourite company retrosix, which they very helpfully told me to "wire this wire to this instead of that" to get mono-summed sound into the speaker rather than the right channel only, because they couldn't be bothered to update the installation guide.
Left button dosen't work still gose to swap the full PCB. what was the point getting another gameboy when your switching the PCB anyways that fixes your issue Either way
Because the problem is on the back board for that console
Awesome vid - I grabbed and installed one of these recently. The up on my d-pad does not work and my start button is finicky as well. I may just have a bad unit...hopefully RGRS will reply to my ticket. RIPS v3 kit I had before this didn't have any of these issues. I could've probably overlooked the start button, but up is pretty important lol. Tried reseating, and loosening/tightening the screws, still getting the same problem.
I really do hope its just a bad unit I got - because the screen is awesome and the battery meter is a killer feature for me.
Update on this - RGRS sent me a new front PCB and that fixed all the issues :). RGRS support was awesome and responsive!
Was planning on getting the rips v3 but might get this one I'm making mine nes styled
i scrape the blade with a bit of pressure backwords over the plastic when trimmed, it removes all those little sharp bits.
ps you need to give us a run down on that psu. it looks nice but prices ive seen are way high
I've gone into it in the comments but basically it's a neat little unit. You pay a premium for the size but the features are about on par with the larger units. It's good for someone who has very little space for something like this but otherwise the bigger, cheaper units are probably better. It's also good for someone like me who does these tests on camera and saves me the hassle of setting up another camera to cut in to my videos or to make a remote display.
Love your retrosix shell. Is it Pink Pearl colour?
yes and it looks better than it actually is
This kit retro pixel mode is it same with funnyplaying one will have the glitch line?
I saw some reviews about OSD retro pixel mode is better than FP.
Do you think will it fit retromodding design bracket because “one chip” design bracket is suck since RIPS v2 ,the RM design bracket same Q5 screen but place location not same.
Still iffy on RIPS since they promised better button input for the V3 and that did not end up being the case for me; In fact the V3 button board was even less responsive with the A and B buttons compared to the V2 button board.
I bought a v3 like a few months ago and while I did like the brightness settings to be as low as possible, some button presses are not as responsive as one might think - probably because of how large the contacts are. I'm still waiting on someone who would buy it from me.
I understand that some people are having problems but I genuinely don't get it. I've had zero issues with any of the boards when it comes to button inputs (except that one time when I used a really shitty dpad combined with a really shitty membrane but swapping both out for OEM parts resolved my issue).
@@makho i think the most issues were with the first iteration of the rips kits.
That is the most yellowed DMG I've ever seen. Do you do retro brighting?
There's yellowed DMGs that could be mistaken for the yellow DMG, this one seems moderate in comparison.
Good blog but bit of messing about and corner cutting picked up on few faults in your install
never said it was perfect. You know how it is though, once the camera is going, things take twice as long and look half as good.
Hi I am beginner Of soldering Just want to know What solder That you use So I can buy it What's the number In size and everything and Flux And solder what's inside doesn't corrode the board what do you clean it off After your done Soldering What's the best solder and flux Used in the video
th-cam.com/video/i7KBzwaj6nE/w-d-xo.html
Hello makho, where were you bought your programmable power supply (DMP-M01)? It looks nice!
If you search MDP-XP, you should find a few vendors. This one was a sample from the manufacturer. It's nice and works great for me but I don't think the vendor who sent it my way is going to be stocking them.
@@makho Thanks so much for your feedback, I have found the supplier
@@makho "sample" I see. :^)
@@DasAntiNaziBroetchen yes, literally. RGRS started stocking products from that vendor and they sent him one of everything. He sent me a few things to play with.
Hey man, after I have done the mode the gameboy volumen is too low what was the cause do I need to buy a new speakers or it’s because to the screen board ?? Thanks in advance
I am curious, I started to notice you don't remove the lcd protective film when installing. Is there particular reason for this?
because I generally don't keep these consoles as is and take them apart after the video
@@makho I see that makes sense.
I ask a question in your SP headphone jack video when you get a chance :)
Just wondering which pin out method is better.
thank you
You tha man
anyone know why the pallets keep resetting to random colors on shutdown? It doesn't seem to want to save them when I switch out games.
Has it ever worked? Almost sounds like a problem with your particular kit
@@makho I ended up doing a system reset and so far they seem to save now. Settings may have corrupted somehow.
Why would they change their name?
Do you think the pixelgrid on the funnyplaying looks better?
I think they both look terrible
Can you tell me all about that power supply you have? That seems like a nifty thing to want to have.
Thanks.
MDP-XP. It's a bit pricey for the feature set but the size is really appealing to someone like me with a small workspace.
I just built one but was wondering if you had any issues closing up the new housing etc? Mine doesn't close flush and I can feel some kind of bulging pressure toward the bottom of the screen.
The screen and new board assembly feels super flush, it's only when I combine the two halves of the Gameboy that the pressure is caused.
I've tried reassembling it many times and can't figure out what's obstructing it.
I have not had any issues. Gotta make sure you trimmed everything that you need to trim and that there are not any errant screws or other parts in a place they should not be.
Hey makho what's up man how are you doing?
I just ordered this kit, and am really anxious to get it working :D
Gonna watch your video on it now (maybe should have done that beforehand)
If you set all the color palettes the same color and then click out, are you screwed?
lol let me check -- pretty sure the menu is still a different color and you can still "factory reset"
yeah, the picture is obviously all but the menu color does not change: cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/246604458744610816/765755868406218762/20201013_190002.jpg
@@makho thnx for checking makho, good to see they thought of this.
Hello, could someone tell me what it is called or how I can find the 22:18 minute piece, For a more or less pin display, thank you
@makho where did you order this pokemon replacement stickers that you have on your carts?
custom one off
Any chance you can give me a link for that black 2.6 inch black lens?
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001363925031.html
I am 20 minutes into this video and have yet to hear that cat boi yellin for attention. This is not what I signed up for! (jk obvs good work as always)
I installed this kit over the weekend, and when my gameboy does screen resets now (exiting out of menus in Pokemon, or changing overworlds in Wario Land) there is some weird artifacting on the right side of the screen. Its sort of like a scan line that move down from the middle of the screen. Any idea what could cause this?
turn the pixel grid off if it's on or on if it's off and see if it goes away
@@makho i heard you say that in one of your videos before, so i tried that but still have the issue, so I contacted the distributor to see if they knew what was going on. Im waiting to hear back from them
anyone any issues with the LED battery light no longer working?
How do you pull up the control menu?
I would love that someday they let scale the screen, so I can install this on a Mizucat uvprint shell than obv I won't trim
the image cannot be scaled without using a different LCD. If you don't want to trim, just use a different kit. That being said, the trim is very minimal.
You really wouldn't want screen scaling because integer scaling would make the size way off and non-integer scaling would completely ruin the image.
i thoght tha u forgot remove the screen protector from lcd! OR NOT?
I've recently installed this kit and noticed issues with the diagonal inputs on the d-pad. Has anyone else noticed this?
I haven't noticed any issues on my install
DankPods reference?
I have yet to get a single screen ordered from them in one of these cases
from funnyplaying or RGRS?
@@makho both actually 😂
I knew them sending stuff in such expensive packaging was fishy.
@@DasAntiNaziBroetchen in bulk, those cases are less than $1 a pop so not that expensive really
man I wanna upgrade to this from my v3 but, I just know imma screw up cutting the display area lol
it's really not that difficult of a cut
Will the everdrive x7 work with this IPS kit?
Works just fine.
Have the ips v3 the Pixel Mode or only the v4??
just the Q5 versions
Hi Makho, I just installed the OSD V4 ips kit. I found the front (button) PCB is far too thick compared to the original. This cause some real problems: buttons do note respond as they should; Is impossible to close the shell in a proper way, once closed the shell is a bit bended.
Did you have the same issues, do you know any solutions? does exist a thinner front pcb suitable for this kit ( I also have the Funnyplaying and for me is on another level of precision, also the molded bracket is far better and precise.
well any advise is welcome.
thx in advance
the front board is too thick? That's not how that works though. You should contact the seller you got it from if there's a problem with the kit.
plese use pliers and sandpapers to finishup the plastics windowing.
get a black permanent marker and make the inner border black.
thank me later.
What is the best screen for game boy pocket?
this is for a DMG, not a Pocket
@@makho I assume that is exactly why he asked that question.
@@DasAntiNaziBroetchen why are you going through all my comments doing shit like this?
Looks great, but too bad about the frame jumps... Looks like Funnyplaying is the only one that gets that right
what video did you watch?
makho, how about Fundraising money (donations to you), so you can buy 4K camera and make all of us happy subscribers of yours ? Full HD is very good, but 4K with decent camera would be really a leap for mankind :) Greets from France !
I have a 4k camera =)
45:27 ahegao.gb what
dl link plz
I need it for uh, science.
please I am so curious I have googled to no avail
@@GizmoTheGreen I imagine it's some kind of collection of ahegao pics. I've seen some screenshots on aliexpress and ebay seller's listings. Very weird and inappropriate. There's some pic with a girl and one with link.
Way to seal in those fingerprints
Gotta mark my territory somehow
These names are getting out of hand.
*wizard of oz music* if i only had a brand...
this is why I made that wiki page linked in the description
12:54 something disconnects from his computer
12:54 something disconnects from his computer