The reason is it shuts off is it bypasses the battery when plugged in so if you got the 30 amp plug to charge it it would have no problem passing thru the house power but you have a 15 amp cord to charge it so it can't give 30 amps from bypassing the battery when charging.
I have a Class B rv with a 13500 btu a/c. I am able to run it using a 15amp plug with an ecoflow 2000 max 2400 watt inverter. I realized it is not the wattage that overloads the unit but the amperage. My work around is I turn off all the lights and the fridge first. Than I start the a/c on low fan for about a minute until the current stabilized, than I change it to high fan. At this point the draw is about 3 amps. After another minute I turn on the a/c to cool low and when the compressor kicks in the amperage goes up to 11 amps. I let it run another minute until the current stabilized than I can turn it on cool high. After that I can turn on the fridge and on or two lights only. What you also need to do is turn off the converter in your RV so that the Pecron does not charge the house batteries. Just turn off all the power in your RV first.
Thanks for the comment, you sure are taking a lot of precautions. You know your system very well. I was trying something like that for the first time I started the system, turning the fan on low and then turning the AC on, but something still didn't work. I think it might be the ups like another comment suggested. I will continue with different set ups and report on what I find. I also just found the power distribution panel in the RV. But which line goes to the house batteries I did not see. There is one labled misc all the others are like, AC, fridge, micro... etc.
You can put a boost capacitor kit on the compressor to help with that startup. Maybe 15.00 . It piggy backs the existing capacitor . Stores juice for when you need it.
I use a portable soft start and connect it to the e3600, then plug my rv 30amp cord to the soft start. This helps reduce the load from compressor. Also when you overloaded, did you have appliances running when trying to start a/c? I never got a overload, so just trying to figure out what happened. Anyway nice video, keep experimenting! Good day, Bob
@@thetravelingmyfundsarelow1693 thanks for the comment, I think the combination of input and output was too high for 15 amp connector that I was using. When the RV is plugged in it uses about 300 watts of constantly. The AC will only add to that. So the AC was pulling about 1700 watts at peak, but started at about 900 watts.
REMEMBER!!! When you are using a Solar Generator with an RV you Must TURN OFF THE CONVERTER/CHARGER!!!! or you will use the Generator to charge itself. That is very inefficient and draws about 500w as well. So if the AC draws 1500w to start up plus the 500w for the RV converter it will trip the Percon. You will now run a split system. A 12v system and a 110v system. Have fun!
I have the E3600 LFP also and have this same exact problem, when I connect it to get charged by the Grid in my house and only plug in my AC window unit that pulls around same as your AC 1000watts -2000watts so from my testing if I decrease the charge to 10%-20% it wont overload the inverter on 30% sometimes it overloads and sometimes it does not I guess it depends as sometimes my AC suddenly will pull more than usually i guess it depends on how hot temp gauge sees it is and how much more power it pulls, but at 10% to 20% charging has worked just fine for me, I am getting a more efficient AC Midea 12,000 BTU's with Smart Inverter will only pull around 560Watts and cool just as good or even better, I hope :) anyone having this issue just decrease your charging to 10%-20% while using high wattage pulling devices like AC's, and once you get your battery full disconnect it from power grid and let it run on battery only, just keep an eye out on it so you can recharge when it gets to about 15%-20%, Hope this helps someone, thanks for sharing this video Brother! ✌
The reason is it shuts off is it bypasses the battery when plugged in so if you got the 30 amp plug to charge it it would have no problem passing thru the house power but you have a 15 amp cord to charge it!
Thanks for the response. I will change the settings next time to make the screen stay on longer. At set up I must have selected a short screen on time.
I just tested it out and I still don't know. I tried tapping it with my fingernails. It feels like the screen on my I-phone but that is not saying much... other than a scratch test; which I do not want to do. I do not know how I can be sure.
@@re-thinkthis4880 Thanks for the reply. Maybe a hard plexiglass? When you touch it when looking at it from an angle, does the reflection change/distort?
I think when inputting much less than what you're outputting esp. outputting with the 30a cord, the UPS is trying to act as a pass-through without touching your battery reserves- until your input power is cut off- i.e. power outage. Maybe that's why it's failing? Maybe if you were inputting with the 30A cord, then it would work? Your voice sounds a little bit like Ben Carson's.
@@re-thinkthis4880 I asked the question on Jasonoid's channel under his review of the E3600LFP on your behalf but no one responded. I think it would work fine if you were inputing 30A and outputing 30A.
@@re-thinkthis4880 I wonder if there's any way to change or disable the UPS function. Doesn't UPS work as a pass-through without affecting battery reserves. But in this case, it can't pass through because input is way less than the output.
Thanks for the comment, I do not know that my RV has an internal inverter. It has a converter, that turns AC to DC to keep the house battery charged but when I am not connected to shore power the AC outlets do now work in the RV.
The reason is it shuts off is it bypasses the battery when plugged in so if you got the 30 amp plug to charge it it would have no problem passing thru the house power but you have a 15 amp cord to charge it so it can't give 30 amps from bypassing the battery when charging.
This is the correct answer. Hopefully, this TH-camr sees this and understands.
I have a Class B rv with a 13500 btu a/c. I am able to run it using a 15amp plug with an ecoflow 2000 max 2400 watt inverter. I realized it is not the wattage that overloads the unit but the amperage. My work around is I turn off all the lights and the fridge first. Than I start the a/c on low fan for about a minute until the current stabilized, than I change it to high fan. At this point the draw is about 3 amps. After another minute I turn on the a/c to cool low and when the compressor kicks in the amperage goes up to 11 amps. I let it run another minute until the current stabilized than I can turn it on cool high. After that I can turn on the fridge and on or two lights only. What you also need to do is turn off the converter in your RV so that the Pecron does not charge the house batteries. Just turn off all the power in your RV first.
Thanks for the comment, you sure are taking a lot of precautions. You know your system very well. I was trying something like that for the first time I started the system, turning the fan on low and then turning the AC on, but something still didn't work. I think it might be the ups like another comment suggested. I will continue with different set ups and report on what I find. I also just found the power distribution panel in the RV. But which line goes to the house batteries I did not see. There is one labled misc all the others are like, AC, fridge, micro... etc.
You can put a boost capacitor kit on the compressor to help with that startup. Maybe 15.00 . It piggy backs the existing capacitor . Stores juice for when you need it.
I use a portable soft start and connect it to the e3600, then plug my rv 30amp cord to the soft start. This helps reduce the load from compressor. Also when you overloaded, did you have appliances running when trying to start a/c? I never got a overload, so just trying to figure out what happened. Anyway nice video, keep experimenting! Good day, Bob
@@thetravelingmyfundsarelow1693 thanks for the comment, I think the combination of input and output was too high for 15 amp connector that I was using. When the RV is plugged in it uses about 300 watts of constantly. The AC will only add to that. So the AC was pulling about 1700 watts at peak, but started at about 900 watts.
REMEMBER!!! When you are using a Solar Generator with an RV you Must TURN OFF THE CONVERTER/CHARGER!!!! or you will use the Generator to charge itself. That is very inefficient and draws about 500w as well. So if the AC draws 1500w to start up plus the 500w for the RV converter it will trip the Percon. You will now run a split system. A 12v system and a 110v system. Have fun!
Thanks for the comment.
I have the E3600 LFP also and have this same exact problem, when I connect it to get charged by the Grid in my house and only plug in my AC window unit that pulls around same as your AC 1000watts -2000watts so from my testing if I decrease the charge to 10%-20% it wont overload the inverter on 30% sometimes it overloads and sometimes it does not I guess it depends as sometimes my AC suddenly will pull more than usually i guess it depends on how hot temp gauge sees it is and how much more power it pulls, but at 10% to 20% charging has worked just fine for me, I am getting a more efficient AC Midea 12,000 BTU's with Smart Inverter will only pull around 560Watts and cool just as good or even better, I hope :) anyone having this issue just decrease your charging to 10%-20% while using high wattage pulling devices like AC's, and once you get your battery full disconnect it from power grid and let it run on battery only, just keep an eye out on it so you can recharge when it gets to about 15%-20%, Hope this helps someone, thanks for sharing this video Brother! ✌
The reason is it shuts off is it bypasses the battery when plugged in so if you got the 30 amp plug to charge it it would have no problem passing thru the house power but you have a 15 amp cord to charge it!
You can make your display stay on without going off in the settings menu
Thanks for the response. I will change the settings next time to make the screen stay on longer. At set up I must have selected a short screen on time.
Do you know if the touch screen is glass? Anyone? Thanks.
I just tested it out and I still don't know. I tried tapping it with my fingernails. It feels like the screen on my I-phone but that is not saying much... other than a scratch test; which I do not want to do. I do not know how I can be sure.
@@re-thinkthis4880 Thanks for the reply. Maybe a hard plexiglass? When you touch it when looking at it from an angle, does the reflection change/distort?
TURN OFF THE RV POWER CONVERTER BREAKER!
I think when inputting much less than what you're outputting esp. outputting with the 30a cord, the UPS is trying to act as a pass-through without touching your battery reserves- until your input power is cut off- i.e. power outage. Maybe that's why it's failing? Maybe if you were inputting with the 30A cord, then it would work? Your voice sounds a little bit like Ben Carson's.
Thanks for the comment and tip. I will looking into disabling the ups on the next go around. As for Ben Carson, I will need to look him up =).
@@re-thinkthis4880 I asked the question on Jasonoid's channel under his review of the E3600LFP on your behalf but no one responded. I think it would work fine if you were inputing 30A and outputing 30A.
@@rgraz4929 Thanks for the attempt.
3600watts, no way you overloaded it with ac.
Your surge may what cause your overload
The surge situation is interesting. I will look into that in more detail in the future. I will be sure to report anything I find out in the process.
@@re-thinkthis4880 I wonder if there's any way to change or disable the UPS function. Doesn't UPS work as a pass-through without affecting battery reserves. But in this case, it can't pass through because input is way less than the output.
THat is definitely not generating anything. They (the industry) really need to rename these things properly to solar battery bank.
Turn off rv internal inverter
Thanks for the comment, I do not know that my RV has an internal inverter. It has a converter, that turns AC to DC to keep the house battery charged but when I am not connected to shore power the AC outlets do now work in the RV.