Ciao, sto lavorando anche io il mio cilindro... Mi consigli di fare la luce di aspirazione come la tua? In base a cosa hai esportato tutto quel materiale?
Ciao, scusa per la risposta in ritardo!! L’aspirazione del cilindro e stata lavorata per essere uguale al cilindro 123 sport production!! L’aumento in prestazioni si sente, io te lo consiglio però bisogna stare attenti a non fare errori!
Dovrei prendere un aprilia rx 125 del 2000 ma miei amici dicono che il motore rotax 122 non é affidabile e che sei sempre dal meccanico é vera sta cosa?pls
Ciao!! Tranquillo i motori rotax sono indistruttibili!! l’importante è cambiare pistone cuscinetti, gabbi rulli appena la compri per stare sicuri, e sapere di avere tutto nuovo dentro. Poi usa un olio miscela sintetico di qualità e non ti darà mai problemi! Se un giorno poi decidi di modificarla stessa cosa, basta che si fa la giusta manutenzione & la giusta carburazione!
We started the bike and did a few runs with that cylinder, and it runs great! maybe from the video the cylinder porting looks weird. But we followed diagrams none of it was done randomly😂we know the limits for how far you can port the engine and how to do it properly. The engine was built to the same specs as a 123 rotax, its not the first engine we do!
@@SheharaDevundara run, will run always, but how wide you've don the bridge of the transfer port, so thin. Not today not tomorrow, but eventually youbwill end up with a piston ring very damaged or even seeze the block. After th angle of the transfer ports, it's not so critical for relibility, but if you do it the correct way you could get way better results.
@@adrianocritelli7074 this mass produce Italian bike made under 20hp at stock. Port tuning, racing exhaust, reed valve, carburetor, you'll jump to bigger hp easily.
ciao, mi dispiace. sul pc sembravano meno invadenti ma ho controllato ora sul telefono e copre molto, nel futuro farò dei video ita & inglese separati!!
Well I have to admire your enthusiasm, however all the mods you did to that cylinder were all wrong. Sorry you've got alot to learn about 2 strokes and how to improve them for more power. I stopped watch the video the moment you started 'honing' the exhaust port. On the plus side if you want to learn, search for '2 stroke stuffing' on YT alot of his knowledge is correct.
Thank you for your comment! The engine was modified to the same standard as the racing rs125 engine that we used to race with. We used the same diagrams we did with that engine which always ran extremely well in the racetrack. With the exhaust ports, its pretty common to raise and widen the port to gain more speed at higher rpm. Polishing the exhaust port is to reduce the carbon sticking to the walls while helping the exhaust gas flow better that why we did that procedure. Still tell me what mods were done wrong, so if there are any mistakes i won't do it again in the future Either way I'll look into that channel, its always good to learn something new 😊
@@SheharaDevundara Lets start with this :: The mod you did to the top edge of the transfers. Do you know what angle the entrance of the transfers into the cylinder was before you started grinding away, and do you know what angles work best in a 54 bore cylinder?
@@integral32gb I looked at the video again and i did say angle, maybe that's what confused you. I should of used a different word. What i meant by it, was that we removed the curve in the transfer port; we basically re-profiled the internal flow of transfer port making it straight. And we raised the transfer port to correct the timing, so that it matched the sport pro timing. We have the 123rotax sp engine transfer port measurements and other port measurements. We basically used those measurements to port the cylinder in the video. We didn't check the stock angle, since we work with the timing degrees and the 123rotax port measurements. Me personally I don't know what angle works best in a 54 bore cylinder. What do you recommend? That way I'll also try it out! 👍👍
@@SheharaDevundara While watching the video I wasn't listening to what you said, just what you did. The transfers were modified just at the window, badly, you never flowed the rest of the transfer port along its length to match. If you change the port timing just at the window then you change the axial angle too. You have to think of the transfer as a nozzle that has been bent. On a piece of paper draw a triangle, the 2 equal sides being 4 times longer than the bottom. Now cut the top of of the peak off and now you have a 4 sided triangle, with a flat top and flat bottom. The flat top is your port window in the cylinder, the flat bottom is the entrance to the transfers. Now you got to bend that triangle over so the port window is inline with the axial of the cylinder, but the distances between the 2 triangle sides have to be maintained almost the same. Its easy to see this, if you take a piece of plastic card like a credit card, put it between your thumb and forefinger and squeeze it, you'll see it forms a radius, now take another longer piece of card and squeeze it too in your other hand keeping the distance at the bottom the same as the triangle bottom you drew and keep squeezing until you match the height of the port window in your cylinder with the top of the card you see 2 radii. Nice and smooth, what you have done with that cylinder is added a wedge at the top just 10mm or so in. Not good! Now I don't know what you are trying achieve @9:54 but I will tell you the the inner transfer port wall is one of the most important radii in the whole of a 2 stroke engine. Its important because the outer wall controls the flow direction, it has to, the flow in the transfer has nowhere else to go, its like a wall of death ride. However the inner wall because there is less pressure will not adhere to the inner wall and can detach causing turbulence, so the inner wall must maintain that bent nozzle shape. Most production engines have terrible transfers and actually need more material adding to the inner wall to shape that nozzle NOT having it abraded away. For the amount of power your Rotax is likely to produce the port duration will be main exhaust : 193-196*deg transfers: 128-130*deg. Axial transfer angle: because the 122 has a domed piston is: A:25* B:8* C:55* One last thing. YOU ONLY POLISH TROPHIES NOT ENGINE PORTS!
@@integral32gb On the video its hard to see, we didn't show everything cause the video would have been too long. However, we didn't just modify the transfer port windows, looking at the video it seems that way due to the color differences. We used and abrasive cloth similar to sand paper to flow the rest of the port and make everything flow correctly without any bumps or wedges. At 9:54 we were just cleaning up the small bumps and blemishes in the port not polishing it. The only port you polish is the exhaust port. Yes the inner wall should maintain a bend; however, it has to be reduced, there shouldn't be hard bends in and engine that block the flow. None of this was done randomly we have many manuals and diagrams that we follow. We tried those degrees before when I used to race with the 125; however we don't use those, we use slightly different ones. Either way thank you To polish the trophies I'll need a helping hand, I have too many 🤣🤣
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Bellissimo video...anche se non c'hò capito ná mazza😂😂👍
🤣🤣grazie!! in futuro farò anche video in italiano!
Finally
lmao, yes man it took me a while 🤣🤣 this video took so many days just to record, i hope you like it!
Bel video...bravi tu e papà...💪👍👏😘
grazie fabrizio!!
Hrima lassanai video eka jaya wewa 💪👍👏😘
Thank you Dilhan!!😊😊
love your Videos
Thank you man😁👍
Ciao, sto lavorando anche io il mio cilindro... Mi consigli di fare la luce di aspirazione come la tua? In base a cosa hai esportato tutto quel materiale?
Ciao, scusa per la risposta in ritardo!! L’aspirazione del cilindro e stata lavorata per essere uguale al cilindro 123 sport production!! L’aumento in prestazioni si sente, io te lo consiglio però bisogna stare attenti a non fare errori!
Hola Buenas!
Motor: castrol MTX 10W40 vs Motul 10W40 ?
Aceite mezcla separado : castrol power Racing 1 vs Motul 710 ?
Gracias!
Bravo 🏍️💪👍👏👏
graziee!!! 😊❤👍
Low rpm ok or not porting like this?
Dovrei prendere un aprilia rx 125 del 2000 ma miei amici dicono che il motore rotax 122 non é affidabile e che sei sempre dal meccanico é vera sta cosa?pls
Ciao!! Tranquillo i motori rotax sono indistruttibili!! l’importante è cambiare pistone cuscinetti, gabbi rulli appena la compri per stare sicuri, e sapere di avere tutto nuovo dentro. Poi usa un olio miscela sintetico di qualità e non ti darà mai problemi! Se un giorno poi decidi di modificarla stessa cosa, basta che si fa la giusta manutenzione & la giusta carburazione!
@@SheharaDevundara io la ho trovata aprilia rx 125 del 1999 sui 1700 con motore appena rifatto, spero sia un bell acquisto, grazie cmq
Where did u get the red m18x1.5 screws
Hey, I got them from NRTeam! They have a bunch of other colors too
You can throw that cylinder away 🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️ I'm not hating its just the one whi ported that didn't know whag he vwas doing
We started the bike and did a few runs with that cylinder, and it runs great! maybe from the video the cylinder porting looks weird. But we followed diagrams none of it was done randomly😂we know the limits for how far you can port the engine and how to do it properly. The engine was built to the same specs as a 123 rotax, its not the first engine we do!
@@SheharaDevundara run, will run always, but how wide you've don the bridge of the transfer port, so thin. Not today not tomorrow, but eventually youbwill end up with a piston ring very damaged or even seeze the block. After th angle of the transfer ports, it's not so critical for relibility, but if you do it the correct way you could get way better results.
Did you run on a dyno? How much power does the engine made? Also I would love to know the others specs. Kind regards
@@adrianocritelli7074 this mass produce Italian bike made under 20hp at stock.
Port tuning, racing exhaust, reed valve, carburetor, you'll jump to bigger hp easily.
non riusciamo a vedere nulla con i sottotitoli davanti.... davvero fastidioso!!!
ciao, mi dispiace. sul pc sembravano meno invadenti ma ho controllato ora sul telefono e copre molto, nel futuro farò dei video ita & inglese separati!!
Well I have to admire your enthusiasm, however all the mods you did to that cylinder were all wrong. Sorry you've got alot to learn about 2 strokes and how to improve them for more power. I stopped watch the video the moment you started 'honing' the exhaust port.
On the plus side if you want to learn, search for '2 stroke stuffing' on YT alot of his knowledge is correct.
Thank you for your comment! The engine was modified to the same standard as the racing rs125 engine that we used to race with. We used the same diagrams we did with that engine which always ran extremely well in the racetrack.
With the exhaust ports, its pretty common to raise and widen the port to gain more speed at higher rpm. Polishing the exhaust port is to reduce the carbon sticking to the walls while helping the exhaust gas flow better that why we did that procedure. Still tell me what mods were done wrong, so if there are any mistakes i won't do it again in the future
Either way I'll look into that channel, its always good to learn something new 😊
@@SheharaDevundara Lets start with this :: The mod you did to the top edge of the transfers. Do you know what angle the entrance of the transfers into the cylinder was before you started grinding away, and do you know what angles work best in a 54 bore cylinder?
@@integral32gb I looked at the video again and i did say angle, maybe that's what confused you. I should of used a different word. What i meant by it, was that we removed the curve in the transfer port; we basically re-profiled the internal flow of transfer port making it straight. And we raised the transfer port to correct the timing, so that it matched the sport pro timing. We have the 123rotax sp engine transfer port measurements and other port measurements. We basically used those measurements to port the cylinder in the video.
We didn't check the stock angle, since we work with the timing degrees and the 123rotax port measurements.
Me personally I don't know what angle works best in a 54 bore cylinder. What do you recommend? That way I'll also try it out! 👍👍
@@SheharaDevundara While watching the video I wasn't listening to what you said, just what you did. The transfers were modified just at the window, badly, you never flowed the rest of the transfer port along its length to match. If you change the port timing just at the window then you change the axial angle too. You have to think of the transfer as a nozzle that has been bent. On a piece of paper draw a triangle, the 2 equal sides being 4 times longer than the bottom. Now cut the top of of the peak off and now you have a 4 sided triangle, with a flat top and flat bottom. The flat top is your port window in the cylinder, the flat bottom is the entrance to the transfers. Now you got to bend that triangle over so the port window is inline with the axial of the cylinder, but the distances between the 2 triangle sides have to be maintained almost the same. Its easy to see this, if you take a piece of plastic card like a credit card, put it between your thumb and forefinger and squeeze it, you'll see it forms a radius, now take another longer piece of card and squeeze it too in your other hand keeping the distance at the bottom the same as the triangle bottom you drew and keep squeezing until you match the height of the port window in your cylinder with the top of the card you see 2 radii. Nice and smooth, what you have done with that cylinder is added a wedge at the top just 10mm or so in. Not good!
Now I don't know what you are trying achieve @9:54 but I will tell you the the inner transfer port wall is one of the most important radii in the whole of a 2 stroke engine. Its important because the outer wall controls the flow direction, it has to, the flow in the transfer has nowhere else to go, its like a wall of death ride. However the inner wall because there is less pressure will not adhere to the inner wall and can detach causing turbulence, so the inner wall must maintain that bent nozzle shape. Most production engines have terrible transfers and actually need more material adding to the inner wall to shape that nozzle NOT having it abraded away.
For the amount of power your Rotax is likely to produce the port duration will be main exhaust : 193-196*deg transfers: 128-130*deg. Axial transfer angle: because the 122 has a domed piston is: A:25* B:8* C:55*
One last thing. YOU ONLY POLISH TROPHIES NOT ENGINE PORTS!
@@integral32gb On the video its hard to see, we didn't show everything cause the video would have been too long. However, we didn't just modify the transfer port windows, looking at the video it seems that way due to the color differences. We used and abrasive cloth similar to sand paper to flow the rest of the port and make everything flow correctly without any bumps or wedges.
At 9:54 we were just cleaning up the small bumps and blemishes in the port not polishing it. The only port you polish is the exhaust port.
Yes the inner wall should maintain a bend; however, it has to be reduced, there shouldn't be hard bends in and engine that block the flow. None of this was done randomly we have many manuals and diagrams that we follow.
We tried those degrees before when I used to race with the 125; however we don't use those, we use slightly different ones.
Either way thank you
To polish the trophies I'll need a helping hand, I have too many 🤣🤣