Yes , I want every job I do to work and be a success for the customer and if there is ever an issue I want to know why so it doesn’t happen again if it’s a fault of our which these days is few and far between.
At the Building Research Establishment they have walls to built in pools of water to see how far the damp rises. None of them have damp rising from the water’s surface more that 4 inches. The marks just above skirting boards that people see is 90% of the time caused by condensation. As heat rises the coldest part of the wall is the lowest part and this is where the water vapour condenses and stays persistently damp causing a reaction with the plaster in which salts are produced. These salts are hydroscopic meaning they suck in even more water making the situation worse. With central heating and double glazing nobody want to open windows anymore so I recommend using a dehumidifier in conjunction with the heating.
Great and very imformatove video. Ive had an independent damp survey done which said i had damp on 2 walls and chimneys. The floor is quite high from ground level and said its due to poor ventilation in the basement and needing repointing/old brickwork. It doesnt quite feel right to me, i need to replaster and add membrane the walls but not sure if the improved ventilation amd repointing will help enough to guarantee it not coming back again. Thinking of adding some dry rods as well. All this was missed in the home buyers survey. The more i look at it the more things i can see contribute to the dampness. Its a mindfield!
A home buyer surveyor is not a specialist damp & timber surveyor but in their reports they should recommend you have a specialist survey done if they find anything
@@dampsam sorry I should've specified, it was an independent damp and timber surveyor. We had a level 3 survey when we bought the house, which missed a lot of things and didn't suggest we should get a damp specialist in. It's our first house so didn't realize the surveys were that basic.
Hi Sam, great video, just a quick question. Our apartment is ground floor but has no damp course and I have an internal wall with rising damp. The internal wall is just thin orange blocks as it’s not a supporting wall, the cement to bond them together is very thin about 2mm thick, is it ok to put the rods straight into the blocks or must it go into mortar . Hope you can advise me thx
Can you take the off-cut pieces of the Dryrods and say use a couple of them back to back in a hole so you can use them all up instead of needing to use a single cut stick every time? Thanks.
Err is that crement pointing not lime?? Why not use lime mortor and rendering to let the wall breath instead. If you let the walls breath properly I guess it will be fine in most cases. Anyone back this up?
Yes done this myself to a horribly damp single skin brick outbuilding I was told there was no damp corse, the slab had failed, rising damp etc I took a chance and removed the cement render from the outside and the gypsum from the inside and let dry out for a week replastered with a 3 coat traditional lime render. It cost 300 pounds on materials and is now dry as a bone! The building also houses a pool heater exchanger and filter that used to be basically a condensation factory 😂. It’s now dry as a bone even the rafters have now dried out! If it wasn’t for the expense I would be confident enough in the buildings damp extraction/breath ability to fit a shower and jacuzzi
"Why not use lime mortor and rendering to let the wall breath instead"::: your Comments DONT make any sense....the wall in the video didnt have rendering !::: have you been watching Schizo Pete Wards videos ?:::Old solid bricks arent very porous but the mortar bed is a porous as feck !
@@TheMiiiyyykkk Older buildings work by releasing water out through the masonry, the main way this happens is through the mortar beds. That building has very obvious and inappropriate portland cement strap pointing. This means that the water coming up the wall can't escape as easily out the mortar beds (because cement is not as permeable as lime) so the water hangs around in the wall and makes it damp. You don't need cement rendering to cause damp, though, if you do have it it can cause even worse problems than the pointing (obviously). This isn't an opinion you can have, it's a fact! There are official guidelines and advice surrounding using lime and not cement on old buildings for a reason (it's just a shame not that many people unless they've done research know about it)! I mean even the people who make portland cement (e.g. blue circle) say you shouldn't use it by it's self on historic period properties (they suggest adding "Hydralime" which is pure non-hydraulic lime, though, obviously it's better to just use pure NHL but I don't think they produce that so I doubt they'd ever suggest it)
For a small damp area: Do you need to remove the rendering on the outside so you can identity the mortar line? Same if installing them on the inside, do you need to remove the plaster?
Hi Sam, The slabs in the garden cover most of the damp proof course in a house a own. What would you recommend ie the rod system or removing the slabs and putting in pebbles? Not sure as to which woould work out better/cheaper
Hi mate, Look like a philosopher with a beard. Suites you. Got a strange question. If the motor near the damp proof needs re-doing. Would you do that first and then use these? Or do the rods and then do the pointing in. Have a property I manage and it has rising damp. The damp proof course is visible but not 150mm above ground level due to slabs. Maybe 70mm or 100mm above ground. One builder friend recommended the dry rods and said a soakaway a foot around the property was overkill. The soakaway was suggested by someone who wanted to get paid. Great to see your reviews. Thanks
I think you mean insert the rods or inject the cream, you can do either so it’s what every is best for you, I find it quicker and less drilling to do inside and outside as opposed to drilling one side. Everyone is different.
Hi I have condensation understairs I put a vent on door but we still get condensation what else can I do to help it that's only ventilation in there it roughly 6ft x 3ft I scraped all peeling paint off n gone back to plaster the plaster is dry
From the website, and conversations with the suppliers, I understand it to be 150 mm minimum above ground outside, and nearest course to floor if working inside.
Sorry if I missed it simey but how do the sausages work do they desolve or soak it up I have uses traditional dcp on all my terreced house walls excep front I have a stepped out 6 coarse lower brick section I have pointed it with red mastic with extra linseed oil in it the bricks are soakin it up water runs off um now I just want to do dpc coarse in cream will it soak into allready wet bricks before I poit near tarmac pathway my dpc coarse is just above floor on front but I have a 10 " step into front room
erics vids if it’s the cream it diffuses into the masonry and components of the cream change the structure of how rising damp moisture acts inside the capillaries. The spacing needs to be equal, around every half brick.
GREAT VIDEO THANKS, MY FRONT OF THE HOUSE IS APPROX OVER 100YEARS OLD. ANY IDEAS HOW MEASURE THICKENSS AND DEPTH I NEED TO GO IN. DUE TO STONE WALLS, BE4LOW MY FRONT ROOM WINDOW, WITHOUT DRILLING STRAIGHT THROUGH? THANKS
Good video Quick question would I need to hack internal wall plaster it is only a small area which shows a damp patch in winter ? The plaster is still solid as a rock though
Hi my rising damp is inside the house (window wall), do I use these on the outside like the video or will the plaster need taking off inside house and done from inside the house.
Hi Simon, have damp issues in 1930 semi just bottom foot above skirting. Trouble is that the mortar course on one wall is easy to drill into but as It goes round the mortar course slopes lower than the floor boards. Am I able to step the dry rods so long as I insert one at top and bottom of the perpendicular mortar where I step it up? Also if its a 9" wall, why do they supply sticks that are only 7" long which means they are an inch short of each face of the wall? Many thanks, a swift reply would be most appreciated as trying to catch on with it 👍
Hi Tone, yes just step up the line doing both perps. The dry rods come in different sizes, but if the stick is short you cut a piece off another rod to make it up, there is a special tool for cutting them.
@@dampsam Thank you Simon, a great help👍not seen other sizes though only 180mm yes I'd already decided to buy enough so that perhaps 10mm short face and rear.
Used these , three months on, the rods look just the same, the mortar in my wall is still reading 33% on my meter, ( and this is in the summer months ) which is the maximum it will go to. I think I have been conned, big time. Thank god I only did a 10 foot interior wall, as a test before doing the whole house.
Thanks a lot Simon, very informative video I need an advice please Does rising damp should refrain someone from buying a house ? The DPC quote was 7K by PCA member. Can I do what they recommended with a trusted builder ? Many thanks in advance
It would depend what you lenders terms and conditions are, they normally put a retention on the property until the work has been done by a PCA member company.
Informative Video Thanks. I've been advised that a damp course treatment will have to be done from the outside wall and the inside wall, which means hacking off all the plaster :( . The damp damage is not too bad yet so us it possible to drill from the outside, through the cavity and onto the inside wall stopping 20mm short of the internal wall? Not perfect, but the upheaval will be too much on the property if we treat from the inside. The old damp course is a 1960s bitumen layer that's deteriorated.
You need to make sure it’s diagnosed correctly. If it has a physical dpc like you say it’s low level damp due to bridging., it may have bridged in one or two places but not everywhere. Make sure it’s a qualified person that is doing your survey.
Hi Sam, my house is 100 years old and the walls are very thick, and plastered inside and out, would I do it from the inside or outside and how far up from the ground would I drill please? Thanks 😃
Hi simon.great videos..my cavity walls has interior breeze blocks not standard brick..do you know or have you used dryrods on breeze block.many thanks and keep the vids comeing
Hi Kevin, the concrete block of breeze should not need a dpc, they would have been say on a plastic or physical one so rising damp won’t be an issue, check for other types of dampness
How deep do u have to drill for cavity walls please? Bricks cavity isulation and blocks inside.....Do u only drill to the depth of bricks?? Thanks in advance
Hi Sam, thanks for the video. I’m about to do this to a property I have that has now got dry rot in the lower part of the property. I’ve taken the plaster off up to a mitre and will treat the masonry with a dry rot solution. A friend suggested PVA the walls as a sealer. And would you suggest lime mortar or something else? For the kitchen I was thinking about using a breathable vapor barrier and installing plastic panels over battens any thoughts? PS don’t feed the trolls!
Hi Andy, If you have dry rot the treatment is totally different to dampproofing and I would advise reading up on treatments. Don’t use PVA or should I say ordinary PVA, I hear you about the trolls but I do try and let anyone comment and try and answer them .
Hi Simon. Have a damp problem on my staircase wall going down stairs to the lower level of my apartment .The outside of the wall ground level - is a general car park that is a covered parking by the apartments above. The problem I have is recurring damp blotches on the inside of the wall. Not sure if this is caused by an external underground drain line or water line running near the wall . Have had several attempts ( builders repairing) but always returns after a few months. Can this be repaired once and for all - or having to dig up the car park outside to determine the source of the problem. Not sure this will be an easy fix. The wall is concrete and part of the structure.
I've got a Baxi Brazilia disused wall heater causing massive damp in my wall. I need to take it out and fill the flue hole up. There aren't any videos on taking one out or filling the hole. Any advice? Even though it's been decommissioned as a gas unit can I still remove it or do you have to be gas safe? Lol. Once it's out will the wall dry by its self? It's so damp. Thank you.
Hi Sam, thanks for the video, nice work and very good video. I have 2 questions. 1) can I use the rods across a cavity? 2) My house has an old DPC, do I use the rods at the same level as the old DPC or should I go one level above or one level below?
Hi Simon My husband has already subscribed and we've watched many of your videos but haven't found out what you do about door frames/architrave where the damp has travelled into the wood and up the wall. Also how do you fix the architrave, door stops, skirting boards and dado rails to the walls?? The videos are great very informative thank you!
Hi Tina , each job is different and the reason timber are wet is because they will be in contact with something wet. You need to isolate the timber from the source of moisture. In regards to fixing, they can be stuck in place with one of the many waterproof glue mastics . If a screw needs to go in for a fixing drill the hole and fill it with a clear mastic before putting in the plug. Hope this helps, thank for watching
Hi Tracie, I’d would need to see pictures of the damp prior to you carrying out the work then after along with a detailed description of what you did so I could comment.
Thanks for the info. Do I need to be worried about floorboards rotting in a room where there is damp? As there is laminate flooring down, I cant see anything
Only if the subfloor ventilation is inadequate. Check if the floor is springy by applying your weight in places. This could tell you if the supporting joists have dropped.
Hi Simon, great video, is there any courses I would need to complete in order to get into damp proofing? or would i just need an assesmant with the PCA
Hi Ash, check out The Damp Show podcast i do there is an early episode and we explain how to get in to the preservation industry . Have a look through the list
So if ive got this right mate. Drill holes 150mm from bottom of the wall. 120mm apart. Remove dust, clear hole Place in the drystick then cover the entrance hole with cream.
Hi Rio, Nearly right, You point the hole with sand and cement when finished. the cream is the other system and we are trying to show how both work. Have a great Monday. all installation instructions will be on Safeguards website.
NO::: use the cream coz the silozane sticks are shit...drill 10mm dia holes in the horizontal mortar bed ...above inside floor level ...every 12 cm ...10 cm deep !:::DO THE JOB IN THE SUMMER WITHOUT 2 wks of rain as the silicone wont expand in wet walls ...contrary to their claims !
Hi mate I brought these and my brother ended up useing the sticks on the inside of our cavity walls will that work or do I need to buy more and do the outside
It should work on the inside skin but it anything is bridging inside the cavity the moisture can track across it rainwater splashed back against the masonry.
Hi Simon, Live in North Cyprus and we get a lot of damp as houses built with what I can only describe as a honey combed brick then plastered inside and outside would these sticks work on this type of building 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Please if your drill catches that it will run its way up to your neck and dig into your skin or worse take off your hoodie strings at the neck when working with turning machines.
As a standard rule how far do you drill in into the mortar as ive bought a old house that needs damproofing been quoted £9.5 k my money is not their soo doing it my self
Hi Simon, great videos. Getting involved in sons purchase, terraced house built around 1890,so two party wall agreements needed for DPC. Plus houses built on steep slope so each house around 450 mm higher than next door. Lots of plaster to come off, DPC from inside. Should the holes be drilled as close as possible above floorboard level and plaster applied down to or below hloes and what plaster should be used to finish?
Hello Damp Sam, thanks for creating these videos they are incredible. I have a question for you or anyone who reads this message, you said earlier when using the cream to drill down the side, along the bottom and back up in the area to contain the damp. What if its an internal wall and on the stairs, how did you contain that? Lastly, would you insert the rods down the side, along the bottom and back up like the cream or is it a different process? Thanks again 🙂
Great video Simon. If I follow the 150mm ground criteria, I would need drill into bricks instead of sand/cement in between brick layers. Is it okay to insert the damp proofing rods into bricks? thanks
@@dampsam what if the wall is built of bricks and stones and they are not perfectly aligned? I mean I can have a layer of bricks, but behind it just irregular stones. I have this very old house with 70 cm thick walls. Unfortunately is not just bricks. It's not the typical English house, since it is located in a different country. There is a wine cellar below the room I am trying to patch. It is really humid, and I think the humidity comes up from there, so I am planning to use these rods to stop it. We suspect the main pipe coming from the roof is draining the water into the ground instead of the sewer. I bought a probe with a camera to inspect it. The wall is 4 meter long and I calculate I would need 270 pounds of rods. So before I buy the product I would like to know if it will work anyway or if it is a waste of money for my use case.
Just wondering what the best way to do it from the inside or the outside of the house or can u do both at the same time and I'm getting damp coming through the underneath the bathroom window upstairs can u injector underneath the window or at the bottom of the house
@@dampsam should I try and fit them around the biggest stones In the mortar or straight line it meaning I go through stone and mortar but keep the line straight and level
You can use any replastering system that’s in accordance with BS6576. Which means a salt neutralising plaster. Renderlite, limelite, dri coat, Dryzone dampproofing plaster are all wet trowel applied plasters that are compatible.
These look great..can you do this process from the inside ? I’ve a old stone house (random stone & render on the outside) but the plaster inside is knackered & needs to come off anyway that way it would be easier to find the random courses ? Thanks mate
Oak ,Ash Thorn yes you can, you have to measure the door reveal for the wall thickness and the take off the plaster and 25mm from the far edge, then use a drill bit that’s long enough. Push one rod in then another after it then cut the rod to fit so it’s not sticking out.
Hi Simon, just wanted to ask if these would work on our old chimney breast and hearth as we've recently found out that when our house was rebuilt after a fire the builders didn't follow the dampproof course through the fire place when building the new walls, why I will never know? the fire place is in our lounge where we can see the damp rising either side of the chimney breast, the other side is the bedroom where we can see a lot of rising damp and its even rotted the skirting.
Graham Neil if the fire place is open you can but if it’s filled in with brick and rubble you would need a barrier system installing as I suspect it will be sulphate salt contamination.
This can happen if the flue liners have been installed upside down . The condensation in the flue leaks out. Lining the flue with metal liner can cure it.
Graham, the dpc would not have been installed on a fireplace as the heat generated by the fire would have negated the need for it. Only now in modern times fires are no longer in use, the lack of heat in the area allows the moisture to cause issue which would have previously been prevented by the heat from the fire.
This Damp proofing Subject , Is a very confusing! I’ve read not to injecting into Walls, as it does not work and may make situation worse! Then I’ve read not to make French Drains, they may be not necessary if ones drains and air vents around ones house are regularly Cleaned out . And ones down pipes are correctly positioned!The ground outside is much higher than inside, I don’t know if the plastic damp course is adequate? Would love some input.. Tnx Jenny.
Hey Simon do you want to do a job for me. I need this doing on my front room. I got rising damp and it needs sorting, only issue you in Barnsley? I am in Bolton
Hi Simon, in a situation of a cavity brick wall with rising damp, do you recommend doing the damp proofing from the inside of the house rather than from the outside? Any ballpark figure on cost(GBP) per wall with low level rising damp?
Hi Balraj, I can’t give ball park figures as I offer a bespoke service and there is usually more than one type of damp affecting the property, we usually drill inside and out but it can be done from one side if the drill bit is the right side
Hi 👋 can u guide me to please if I could use these elements as shown in your video on DIY basis internally on stone chips built wall or not? Subscribed and enjoying your channel
They can be used on a numbers of different designs but you need to have the problem diagnosed correctly, if the damp caused is not rising damp then it may reappear.
Hi Simon. I have found a bit of damp in our front room to right of chimney in right alcove. Chimneys are capped and I'm pretty confident the chimney area is dry. Lifted floor boards and skirting and I am pretty certain it is a bridging issue. There was a load of crap i.e. sand, dry cement, soil stuck between foundation wall and the first floorboard joist so ultimately giving moisture a route to draw up the plastered wall. So I'm now in the process of repairing. As part of that I have drilled holes in wall and inserted dry rods. Thought it made sense whilst I had floor boards up. My question is about the dry rods. Can you tell me how they react when coming into contact with moisture. I have a white paste type effect which has been seeping from some of the drilled holes. I am hoping this is the normal chemical reaction?
Hi, did you research further into this? Is the white paste normal? I have the same issue in my house, lots of crap left under the floorboards, sand etc. Did clearing it all out help?
Damp meters are a con the wall often isn't damp it's just Salts in the Plaster work! Real damp is usually caused by Bridging (out side ground to high or blocked or broken down pipes Cement pointing of older properties is bad for the Bilding Don't be Conned by the damp Industry
He’s here look whispering grass with his made up profile .if you can interpret the meter reading and patterns of dampness you could use the cheapest meter on the market and still know what type of damp it was. Not all damp is rising.
hi Simon, so is it always better to install these on the outside of the property rather than inside through the plaster? I also need to install some on a inside wall, will I need to hack all the plaster off to get to the brick or can I simply drill through the plaster and wait for the rods to work and let the plaster dry out that way? thanks
Never drill through the plaster to install these it’s bad practice, always hack off the plaster if it’s contaminated or damp and reinstate with one of the salt neutralising methods. You can install the rod internally and externally or just from one side if you get the depth right.
There are lots of different scenarios around how and why the bridging has occurred because there can be that many different types. I would need to have a lot more info on yours before I could make an informed decision.
Hi all. My grandfather had this type of job carried out on his property by some workmen who knocked on his door. They charged him £16000 for two walls. When the damp returned we tried to contact them but there was no answer. So we had it looked at by another builder and lo and behold they had used a ladies sanitary product instead of the dry rod product to bung the hole! To say we were shocked is an understatement. These Irish builders had no idea what they were doing. Anyway, the new builder used this product instead and it has worked wonderfully.
This is because they are nonsense and will not cure a damp problem......rising damp is nonsense.....this house has cement pointing on it holding in moisture and was most likely built with lime which is breathable......needs taking off and use lime and the issue will go
@@adventureswiththelittleone493 Johnny Rocket commented above saying they did work...You talk about removing all non lime products on a building and replacing like it's a straightforward job...If I'd of carried out the kind of work you mention it would've cost me nearly as much as the property is worth. Talk is cheap, carrying out the sort of work you fire off about isn't. It cured my rising damp problem(oh it exists I assure you) as it did Johnnys grandfather so I'm guessing you're not as knowledgeable as you'd like to think you are..
Great video im not 100% we have a good dpc there is evidence of dpc course inside etc at ground (moved door way ) but outside has a pebble dash finish that stops about 1 brick height 75mm from ground level so can not see at 150mm ?
Hello, Just subscribed to your channel. I need help can you tell me which is best between A = DAMPSOLVE Damp Proof Cream Kit B= Dryrod Damp Proofing Rods DPC Kit To stop raising damp ?
Hi Simon, Very informative video as always. Did the damp proof sticks or injection need to above the floorboards? Or can they be below the floorboards. If it's below the footboards, and damp rises. Will the floorboards not get affected by the rising damp? Thank you
@@dampsam thanks for the video, but surely one would damp proof below the floor boards and joists to prevent rot ?? I am not a builder so im a bit confused .
Hi Simon, I've studied building surveying at university and in the three year course not much was spent on damp lectures (unfortunately). After I graduated I then went on the PCA surveyor training (I haven't taken the exams yet) and found it really interesting. I can see both sides of the "lime v DPC injections" argument. The question I would ask the people who are adamant that rising damp is a myth is how do ground salts end up in masonry/plaster? I've done a few salt analysis tests and found chloride etc. in my samples. These salts weant there when the building was constructed. Also Simon what do you think of Peter Ward and his opinion of the PCA?
Top Fella hi, with regards to peter iv no issue with lime plasters, ventilation and old techniques but I wish he wouldn’t generalise all dampproofers, there are bad ones and that is the problem in our industry that keeps being highlighted. Peter used to be a PCA member and there was a court case where he lost and that may be something to do with his crusade.
@@dampsam Thanks for reply mate. Yes I like his videos (peter) but he seems to have it in for the PCA and their members. When I was down at Huntington I found all the lads at the PCA to be very knowledgeable and genuine. I think it's unfair as I'm a surveyor and not a tradesman myself so I've referred countless damp problems onto good qualified people like yourself to carry out remedial works and I've never had a call back. As you say mate good and bad in every walk of life, but it is shocking how the average Joe builder/DIY person think their damp experts just because they can't properly use a damp meter.
Hi, I'm about to use the Dryzone system on a house with cavity walls. Can you inject the cream or do you need to use the rods? I think I heard the cream is just for solid walls? Would appreciate your advice - cheers.
Glynn Hancock hi Glyn you can use either, if you look on the Safeguard website there will be drawings showing you how to drill each type of wall , solid of cavity. 👍
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks Simon. When I rang them for advice, they said to avoid the cream dripping into the cavity it was best to use the rods. Your videos are really useful. 👍
Glynn Hancock hi, the rods are great I love them as you get the right amount in the hole every time, you could still use cream if the wall is drilled from both sides, When drilling a wall you don’t go all the way through, you drill two thirds the way in. Or 20mm from the far edge, takes a bit of doing though on some walls .
Refreshing to see a genuine contractor giving simple sound advice. A good guy
I appreciate that!
this is a lifesaver...im fixing up a dump of a property and cant afford damp prooofing .....good stuff mate.
Nice one, that’s Awsome
You come across as a genuine contractor, which is rare.
Yes , I want every job I do to work and be a success for the customer and if there is ever an issue I want to know why so it doesn’t happen again if it’s a fault of our which these days is few and far between.
Well presented & straightforward with no bull! Proper! All the best!👍
Thanks 👍
At the Building Research Establishment they have walls to built in pools of water to see how far the damp rises. None of them have damp rising from the water’s surface more that 4 inches. The marks just above skirting boards that people see is 90% of the time caused by condensation. As heat rises the coldest part of the wall is the lowest part and this is where the water vapour condenses and stays persistently damp causing a reaction with the plaster in which salts are produced. These salts are hydroscopic meaning they suck in even more water making the situation worse. With central heating and double glazing nobody want to open windows anymore so I recommend using a dehumidifier in conjunction with the heating.
That’s just a lie pal how wrong can you be, I can’t even be arsed to explain why your wrong and how mixed up your statement is with reality 🤷🏻♂️
@ That’s not what my tutor said when I handed in my 3000 word essay on damp, during my BSc. Housing Degree.
Very helpful video, I am going to use the dry rods today as I usually get creams/silicone all over my hands and end up in a mess! Thanks Sam.
Nice one good luck with it 👍
Great and very imformatove video. Ive had an independent damp survey done which said i had damp on 2 walls and chimneys. The floor is quite high from ground level and said its due to poor ventilation in the basement and needing repointing/old brickwork.
It doesnt quite feel right to me, i need to replaster and add membrane the walls but not sure if the improved ventilation amd repointing will help enough to guarantee it not coming back again. Thinking of adding some dry rods as well.
All this was missed in the home buyers survey. The more i look at it the more things i can see contribute to the dampness. Its a mindfield!
A home buyer surveyor is not a specialist damp & timber surveyor but in their reports they should recommend you have a specialist survey done if they find anything
@@dampsam sorry I should've specified, it was an independent damp and timber surveyor. We had a level 3 survey when we bought the house, which missed a lot of things and didn't suggest we should get a damp specialist in. It's our first house so didn't realize the surveys were that basic.
Simon. With a property with a solid 9” wall from the 1930/40’s what length of rod should be put in Many thanks. Craig.
8”
Great help, thanks. How many dry sticks do I need to put in along a 2m- length of wall?
Go on Safegaurd technical site they will know
Thanks Sam this is great. In a double brick house, how far into the mortar should I drill to install the rods? Don't want to go all the way through.
Hi Sam, great video, just a quick question. Our apartment is ground floor but has no damp course and I have an internal wall with rising damp. The internal wall is just thin orange blocks as it’s not a supporting wall, the cement to bond them together is very thin about 2mm thick, is it ok to put the rods straight into the blocks or must it go into mortar . Hope you can advise me thx
Get it diagnosed with a competent qualified surveyor on site it might not be a rising damp issue
Quality mate short and sweet . You will save people a lot of money . ❤
Glad it helped
Can you take the off-cut pieces of the Dryrods and say use a couple of them back to back in a hole so you can use them all up instead of needing to use a single cut stick every time? Thanks.
Yes I keep the off cuts in one of the empty packets and use them up, there’s no waste that way
Err is that crement pointing not lime??
Why not use lime mortor and rendering to let the wall breath instead. If you let the walls breath properly I guess it will be fine in most cases. Anyone back this up?
Yes everyone minus the damp proof companys
Yes done this myself to a horribly damp single skin brick outbuilding I was told there was no damp corse, the slab had failed, rising damp etc I took a chance and removed the cement render from the outside and the gypsum from the inside and let dry out for a week replastered with a 3 coat traditional lime render. It cost 300 pounds on materials and is now dry as a bone! The building also houses a pool heater exchanger and filter that used to be basically a condensation factory 😂. It’s now dry as a bone even the rafters have now dried out! If it wasn’t for the expense I would be confident enough in the buildings damp extraction/breath ability to fit a shower and jacuzzi
"Why not use lime mortor and rendering to let the wall breath instead"::: your Comments DONT make any sense....the wall in the video didnt have rendering !::: have you been watching Schizo Pete Wards videos ?:::Old solid bricks arent very porous but the mortar bed is a porous as feck !
Is that what your told the new house buyers of your damp ,mouldy house...lol@@edjackson3663
@@TheMiiiyyykkk Older buildings work by releasing water out through the masonry, the main way this happens is through the mortar beds. That building has very obvious and inappropriate portland cement strap pointing. This means that the water coming up the wall can't escape as easily out the mortar beds (because cement is not as permeable as lime) so the water hangs around in the wall and makes it damp.
You don't need cement rendering to cause damp, though, if you do have it it can cause even worse problems than the pointing (obviously).
This isn't an opinion you can have, it's a fact! There are official guidelines and advice surrounding using lime and not cement on old buildings for a reason (it's just a shame not that many people unless they've done research know about it)! I mean even the people who make portland cement (e.g. blue circle) say you shouldn't use it by it's self on historic period properties (they suggest adding "Hydralime" which is pure non-hydraulic lime, though, obviously it's better to just use pure NHL but I don't think they produce that so I doubt they'd ever suggest it)
For a small damp area: Do you need to remove the rendering on the outside so you can identity the mortar line? Same if installing them on the inside, do you need to remove the plaster?
All depends on what type of damp it is and the cause
It looks like rising damp @@dampsam
Do you have to do inside and outside when you do a damp course?
You don’t have to if your drill bit is long enough, I find it easier to do both skins though
Dry zone recommend you wait at least 14 days before pointing or covering of the holes once the rods are placed in the cavity
I’ve not herd that but thanks for the info
Hi sam, what would you say is more effective DryZones Dryrods or their inection cream?
Dry Zone rods because inserted correctly you get the correct amount of product every hole
Hello what when I got 300mm walls cavity and I can’t do this from inside coz got tiles in the corners please??
You need a competent qualified specialist surveyor to do a site visit
I've got to do this how do I measure the bricks as it's a victorian single skin brick wall pls
As I have to do it from inside I don't want it to poke it out the other side
Hi Sam, The slabs in the garden cover most of the damp proof course in a house a own. What would you recommend ie the rod system or removing the slabs and putting in pebbles? Not sure as to which woould work out better/cheaper
Without actually seeing the job I can’t really say unfortunately
@@dampsam Sure, I'll try to upload a short clip. Also which areas do you cover.
Hi mate,
Look like a philosopher with a beard. Suites you. Got a strange question. If the motor near the damp proof needs re-doing.
Would you do that first and then use these? Or do the rods and then do the pointing in.
Have a property I manage and it has rising damp. The damp proof course is visible but not 150mm above ground level due to slabs. Maybe 70mm or 100mm above ground.
One builder friend recommended the dry rods and said a soakaway a foot around the property was overkill. The soakaway was suggested by someone who wanted to get paid.
Great to see your reviews.
Thanks
Hi simon. Do you inject the rods on internall.or externall wall. Have saw people doing both. Cheers
I think you mean insert the rods or inject the cream, you can do either so it’s what every is best for you, I find it quicker and less drilling to do inside and outside as opposed to drilling one side. Everyone is different.
Hi I have condensation understairs I put a vent on door but we still get condensation what else can I do to help it that's only ventilation in there it roughly 6ft x 3ft I scraped all peeling paint off n gone back to plaster the plaster is dry
Also what's fast dry wall system .I doing them rods this year in 1 corner of our house
No idea without a site visit
150mm from floor ??? which floor the external ground or internal floorboards ?? Internally the treatment will need to be below the bottom of skirting
From the website, and conversations with the suppliers, I understand it to be 150 mm minimum above ground outside, and nearest course to floor if working inside.
Sorry if I missed it simey but how do the sausages work do they desolve or soak it up I have uses traditional dcp on all my terreced house walls excep front I have a stepped out 6 coarse lower brick section I have pointed it with red mastic with extra linseed oil in it the bricks are soakin it up water runs off um now I just want to do dpc coarse in cream will it soak into allready wet bricks before I poit near tarmac pathway my dpc coarse is just above floor on front but I have a 10 " step into front room
erics vids if it’s the cream it diffuses into the masonry and components of the cream change the structure of how rising damp moisture acts inside the capillaries.
The spacing needs to be equal, around every half brick.
GREAT VIDEO THANKS, MY FRONT OF THE HOUSE IS APPROX OVER 100YEARS OLD. ANY IDEAS HOW MEASURE THICKENSS AND DEPTH I NEED TO GO IN. DUE TO STONE WALLS, BE4LOW MY FRONT ROOM WINDOW, WITHOUT DRILLING STRAIGHT THROUGH? THANKS
You should be able to measure the depth on an external door or window reveal
Good video
Quick question would I need to hack internal wall plaster it is only a small area which shows a damp patch in winter ?
The plaster is still solid as a rock though
Hi JD, it would depend on what the damp issue is.
@@dampsam rising damp as there is no water source anywhere near
@@JD-rb2wmit’ll be condensation. Don’t stick these pointless tubes into your walls. Just keep your heating between 18-21 degrees
So can you insert the rods on the outside of the wall? Thanks
Yes anywhere except below ground
Hi Simon, greatl vid! How far apart do the holes need to be across a wall?
100mm and every perpendicular coming down and going up on the mortar course
Hi there, do these rods work on hollow clay bricks?
You don’t drill the bricks you drill the mortar course
Hi Simon, what can you put in the holes after damp proof holes have been put in the brick work please?
We point them with sand & cement mortar 4-1
Thank you. 😊
Hi my rising damp is inside the house (window wall), do I use these on the outside like the video or will the plaster need taking off inside house and done from inside the house.
I can’t comment on what I can’t see get a survey done
Hi Simon, have damp issues in 1930 semi just bottom foot above skirting. Trouble is that the mortar course on one wall is easy to drill into but as It goes round the mortar course slopes lower than the floor boards. Am I able to step the dry rods so long as I insert one at top and bottom of the perpendicular mortar where I step it up? Also if its a 9" wall, why do they supply sticks that are only 7" long which means they are an inch short of each face of the wall? Many thanks, a swift reply would be most appreciated as trying to catch on with it 👍
Hi Tone, yes just step up the line doing both perps. The dry rods come in different sizes, but if the stick is short you cut a piece off another rod to make it up, there is a special tool for cutting them.
@@dampsam Thank you Simon, a great help👍not seen other sizes though only 180mm yes I'd already decided to buy enough so that perhaps 10mm short face and rear.
Used these , three months on, the rods look just the same, the mortar in my wall is still reading 33% on my meter, ( and this is in the summer months ) which is the maximum it will go to. I think I have been conned, big time. Thank god I only did a 10 foot interior wall, as a test before doing the whole house.
You need to go on safeguards web site and read how the work, there is a video too, taking mortar reading means nothing
Thanks a lot Simon, very informative video
I need an advice please
Does rising damp should refrain someone from buying a house ?
The DPC quote was 7K by PCA member.
Can I do what they recommended with a trusted builder ?
Many thanks in advance
It would depend what you lenders terms and conditions are, they normally put a retention on the property until the work has been done by a PCA member company.
Informative Video Thanks. I've been advised that a damp course treatment will have to be done from the outside wall and the inside wall, which means hacking off all the plaster :( . The damp damage is not too bad yet so us it possible to drill from the outside, through the cavity and onto the inside wall stopping 20mm short of the internal wall? Not perfect, but the upheaval will be too much on the property if we treat from the inside. The old damp course is a 1960s bitumen layer that's deteriorated.
You need to make sure it’s diagnosed correctly. If it has a physical dpc like you say it’s low level damp due to bridging., it may have bridged in one or two places but not everywhere.
Make sure it’s a qualified person that is doing your survey.
Hi Sam, my house is 100 years old and the walls are very thick, and plastered inside and out, would I do it from the inside or outside and how far up from the ground would I drill please?
Thanks 😃
You can do both or one if the bit is long enough
If I've got double skin of brick do I drill through both courses or just outside course?
You can do either as long as you get the optimum amount of Dryzone’s cream backfilled to each hole
Hi simon.great videos..my cavity walls has interior breeze blocks not standard brick..do you know or have you used dryrods on breeze block.many thanks and keep the vids comeing
Hi si again...its concrete block inside not breeze.thanks
Hi Kevin, the concrete block of breeze should not need a dpc, they would have been say on a plastic or physical one so rising damp won’t be an issue, check for other types of dampness
How deep do u have to drill for cavity walls please? Bricks cavity isulation and blocks inside.....Do u only drill to the depth of bricks?? Thanks in advance
I would do both skins inside and out, you drill to 20mm off the far side.
Always check the manufacturers instructions on their websites
how far in do you drill? And why are diy sticks smaller than contractor sticks?
It’s on safeguards website all the info
Hi Sam, thanks for the video. I’m about to do this to a property I have that has now got dry rot in the lower part of the property. I’ve taken the plaster off up to a mitre and will treat the masonry with a dry rot solution. A friend suggested PVA the walls as a sealer. And would you suggest lime mortar or something else? For the kitchen I was thinking about using a breathable vapor barrier and installing plastic panels over battens any thoughts? PS don’t feed the trolls!
Hi Andy,
If you have dry rot the treatment is totally different to dampproofing and I would advise reading up on treatments. Don’t use PVA or should I say ordinary PVA,
I hear you about the trolls but I do try and let anyone comment and try and answer them .
The house has already had a damp course about 15 years ago and was injected. Will doing it again compromise the structure or anything?
No it won’t compromise the structure
Hi Simon. Have a damp problem on my staircase wall going down stairs to the lower level of my apartment .The outside of the wall ground level - is a general car park that is a covered parking by the apartments above. The problem I have is recurring damp blotches on the inside of the wall. Not sure if this is caused by an external underground drain line or water line running near the wall . Have had several attempts ( builders repairing) but always returns after a few months. Can this be repaired once and for all - or having to dig up the car park outside to determine the source of the problem. Not sure this will be an easy fix. The wall is concrete and part of the structure.
Without seeing the job it’s hard to say
I've got a Baxi Brazilia disused wall heater causing massive damp in my wall. I need to take it out and fill the flue hole up. There aren't any videos on taking one out or filling the hole. Any advice? Even though it's been decommissioned as a gas unit can I still remove it or do you have to be gas safe? Lol. Once it's out will the wall dry by its self? It's so damp. Thank you.
I would get some advise off baxi tech department.
Hi Sam, thanks for the video, nice work and very good video. I have 2 questions. 1) can I use the rods across a cavity? 2) My house has an old DPC, do I use the rods at the same level as the old DPC or should I go one level above or one level below?
I can’t say without seeing it
Hi Simon My husband has already subscribed and we've watched many of your videos but haven't found out what you do about door frames/architrave where the damp has travelled into the wood and up the wall. Also how do you fix the architrave, door stops, skirting boards and dado rails to the walls?? The videos are great very informative thank you!
Hi Tina , each job is different and the reason timber are wet is because they will be in contact with something wet. You need to isolate the timber from the source of moisture.
In regards to fixing, they can be stuck in place with one of the many waterproof glue mastics .
If a screw needs to go in for a fixing drill the hole and fill it with a clear mastic before putting in the plug.
Hope this helps, thank for watching
Simon, thank you so much. This is very helpful- you are amazing :)
Thank you for your kind words 😋
Hi I did internal single brick wall 3 weeks ago customer wants me to decorate but I can still see damp patch. What do I say to her?
Hi Tracie,
I’d would need to see pictures of the damp prior to you carrying out the work then after along with a detailed description of what you did so I could comment.
Thanks for the info. Do I need to be worried about floorboards rotting in a room where there is damp? As there is laminate flooring down, I cant see anything
Only if the subfloor ventilation is inadequate. Check if the floor is springy by applying your weight in places. This could tell you if the supporting joists have dropped.
Good subfloor ventilation is essential check vents arnt blocked
Hi Simon, great video, is there any courses I would need to complete in order to get into damp proofing? or would i just need an assesmant with the PCA
Hi Ash, check out The Damp Show podcast i do there is an early episode and we explain how to get in to the preservation industry . Have a look through the list
Can you do this instead of doing other damp proofing .easures in the basement?
You need to have the type of damp diagnosed correctly in order to know what system to use
would you recommend to drill it in internally, or do it from the outside?
We always do both but some do one
So if ive got this right mate.
Drill holes 150mm from bottom of the wall.
120mm apart.
Remove dust, clear hole
Place in the drystick then cover the entrance hole with cream.
Hi Rio, Nearly right, You point the hole with sand and cement when finished. the cream is the other system and we are trying to show how both work. Have a great Monday. all installation instructions will be on Safeguards website.
NO::: use the cream coz the silozane sticks are shit...drill 10mm dia holes in the horizontal mortar bed ...above inside floor level ...every 12 cm ...10 cm deep !:::DO THE JOB IN THE SUMMER WITHOUT 2 wks of rain as the silicone wont expand in wet walls ...contrary to their claims !
Can I drill in to the mortar or the brick....and spot on info
Drill into mortar if using creams or damp rods,
@@dampsam thank you for the reply..your a top gent 👍
Did you drill mortar or stone?
Mortar course
Hi mate I brought these and my brother ended up useing the sticks on the inside of our cavity walls will that work or do I need to buy more and do the outside
It should work on the inside skin but it anything is bridging inside the cavity the moisture can track across it rainwater splashed back against the masonry.
Hi Sam
I face this problem in our project
Could you please share with us the results after implementing this way in treatment?
It’s from over 10 years ago I think, not been called back
Are they pore liners or pore blockers ???
Pore liners
Hi Simon, Live in North Cyprus and we get a lot of damp as houses built with what I can only describe as a honey combed brick then plastered inside and outside would these sticks work on this type of building 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Albert, it would depend on what type of damp is affecting the property, the rods only work on rising damp.
@@dampsam cheers Simon yes it’s rising not to bad but don’t want to let it get out of hand cheers for reply
Please if your drill catches that it will run its way up to your neck and dig into your skin or worse take off your hoodie strings at the neck when working with turning machines.
Will do thanks for the advise 👍
As a standard rule how far do you drill in into the mortar as ive bought a old house that needs damproofing been quoted £9.5 k my money is not their soo doing it my self
20mm off the far edge
Thankyou for your professionalism
*Hi, well explained, liked and subbed!*
*Question; is the same procedure for interior walls of very old properties with brick walls?*
Hi thanks for joining, yes you just make sure you get the right drill bit length
Hi SImon, can you please tell me how these DIY sticks are made?
You would need to go on the Safeguard website for that
Hi Simon, great videos. Getting involved in sons purchase, terraced house built around 1890,so two party wall agreements needed for DPC. Plus houses built on steep slope so each house around 450 mm higher than next door. Lots of plaster to come off, DPC from inside. Should the holes be drilled as close as possible above floorboard level and plaster applied down to or below hloes and what plaster should be used to finish?
Holes first joint above next doors floor level if it’s a solid floor. Plaster below should be a waterproof system to stop any latteral dampness
Hello Damp Sam, thanks for creating these videos they are incredible.
I have a question for you or anyone who reads this message, you said earlier when using the cream to drill down the side, along the bottom and back up in the area to contain the damp. What if its an internal wall and on the stairs, how did you contain that?
Lastly, would you insert the rods down the side, along the bottom and back up like the cream or is it a different process?
Thanks again 🙂
You follow the line of the stairs up to the height of the meter, you may also have to do under the stairs too
@@dampsam Thank you
I'm doing 15-20 meters of wall from the inside, how many sticks and how much injection cream should I order? Thanks.
You would be best looking on the safeguard website for quantities
Great video Simon. If I follow the 150mm ground criteria, I would need drill into bricks instead of sand/cement in between brick layers. Is it okay to insert the damp proofing rods into bricks? thanks
No you insert the rods in the mortar course just above 150mm on the outside,
@@dampsam what if the wall is built of bricks and stones and they are not perfectly aligned? I mean I can have a layer of bricks, but behind it just irregular stones. I have this very old house with 70 cm thick walls. Unfortunately is not just bricks. It's not the typical English house, since it is located in a different country. There is a wine cellar below the room I am trying to patch. It is really humid, and I think the humidity comes up from there, so I am planning to use these rods to stop it. We suspect the main pipe coming from the roof is draining the water into the ground instead of the sewer. I bought a probe with a camera to inspect it. The wall is 4 meter long and I calculate I would need 270 pounds of rods. So before I buy the product I would like to know if it will work anyway or if it is a waste of money for my use case.
Hi Simon how far should the drill go in ,would the cream not go in the cavity or should you just drill in 100mm.
Thanks
Just wondering what the best way to do it from the inside or the outside of the house or can u do both at the same time and I'm getting damp coming through the underneath the bathroom window upstairs can u injector underneath the window or at the bottom of the house
Hello
What if the brickwork has been plastered over and you can't find the location of the mortars
Take off the plaster to find it
Hi Sam, I have a stone wall about 80cm thick with irregular shaped stones, would this still work
Hi Andrew, these rods are the best to use on a thick wall because you know you have the correct amount in place.
@@dampsam should I try and fit them around the biggest stones In the mortar or straight line it meaning I go through stone and mortar but keep the line straight and level
@@andrewmonson9872 If its sand stone you can do either, i would try and keep it in a straight line if i was doing it.
@@dampsam unfortunately it’s granite!
@@andrewmonson9872 Follow the mortar course then
How far do you have to drill in to the wall
20mm of the far side of the brick, all the info is on the manufacture technical pages
Great video again gona sound daft but iv got damp inside can I or should I put them inside or the outside wall cheers
What's the best way of...removing damp sticks to replace !
Tweezers probably 🤦🏻
Hi Simon, can I put cement plaster over the brick wall after installing these or is it only for exposed brick?
You can use any replastering system that’s in accordance with BS6576. Which means a salt neutralising plaster. Renderlite, limelite, dri coat, Dryzone dampproofing plaster are all wet trowel applied plasters that are compatible.
@@dampsam thank you for the response and video! I'll be doing that
Don’t do this externally as the damp/ moisture will then simply travel up the render and back in. Salt inhibiting won’t make a difference
Great information
These look great..can you do this process from the inside ? I’ve a old stone house (random stone & render on the outside) but the plaster inside is knackered & needs to come off anyway that way it would be easier to find the random courses ?
Thanks mate
Oak ,Ash Thorn yes you can, you have to measure the door reveal for the wall thickness and the take off the plaster and 25mm from the far edge, then use a drill bit that’s long enough. Push one rod in then another after it then cut the rod to fit so it’s not sticking out.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW excellent stuff..have a good day 👍
Hi Simon, just wanted to ask if these would work on our old chimney breast and hearth as we've recently found out that when our house was rebuilt after a fire the builders didn't follow the dampproof course through the fire place when building the new walls, why I will never know? the fire place is in our lounge where we can see the damp rising either side of the chimney breast, the other side is the bedroom where we can see a lot of rising damp and its even rotted the skirting.
Graham Neil if the fire place is open you can but if it’s filled in with brick and rubble you would need a barrier system installing as I suspect it will be sulphate salt contamination.
This can happen if the flue liners have been installed upside down .
The condensation in the flue leaks out.
Lining the flue with metal liner can cure it.
@@leeetchells609 any work around chimney breasts would be different as the sulphate salts need to be isolated normally with a waterproof system.
Graham, the dpc would not have been installed on a fireplace as the heat generated by the fire would have negated the need for it. Only now in modern times fires are no longer in use, the lack of heat in the area allows the moisture to cause issue which would have previously been prevented by the heat from the fire.
This Damp proofing Subject , Is a very confusing! I’ve read not to injecting into Walls, as it does not work and may make situation worse! Then I’ve read not to make French Drains, they may be not necessary if ones drains and air vents around ones house are regularly Cleaned out . And ones down pipes are correctly positioned!The ground outside is much higher than inside, I don’t know if the plastic damp course is adequate? Would love some input.. Tnx Jenny.
Jenny Davis hi Jenny feel free to email me with your concerns dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com
yes ill run some French drains through my living room ...itll be a nice water feature...lol
Do you do this on the inside as well?
Yes
Hey Simon do you want to do a job for me. I need this doing on my front room. I got rising damp and it needs sorting, only issue you in Barnsley? I am in Bolton
Send me pictures videos and a description to our WhatsApp 07973748566 and I’ll have a look in the first instance
Hi Simon, in a situation of a cavity brick wall with rising damp, do you recommend doing the damp proofing from the inside of the house rather than from the outside? Any ballpark figure on cost(GBP) per wall with low level rising damp?
Hi Balraj, I can’t give ball park figures as I offer a bespoke service and there is usually more than one type of damp affecting the property, we usually drill inside and out but it can be done from one side if the drill bit is the right side
Does this not look easy and you can do yourself?
Hi 👋 can u guide me to please if I could use these elements as shown in your video on DIY basis internally on stone chips built wall or not?
Subscribed and enjoying your channel
They can be used on a numbers of different designs but you need to have the problem diagnosed correctly, if the damp caused is not rising damp then it may reappear.
Hi - do you need to drill all the way through to the other side? Plaster needs to come off anyway?
No you drill to within 20mm of the far side
Hi Simon. I have found a bit of damp in our front room to right of chimney in right alcove. Chimneys are capped and I'm pretty confident the chimney area is dry. Lifted floor boards and skirting and I am pretty certain it is a bridging issue. There was a load of crap i.e. sand, dry cement, soil stuck between foundation wall and the first floorboard joist so ultimately giving moisture a route to draw up the plastered wall. So I'm now in the process of repairing. As part of that I have drilled holes in wall and inserted dry rods. Thought it made sense whilst I had floor boards up. My question is about the dry rods. Can you tell me how they react when coming into contact with moisture. I have a white paste type effect which has been seeping from some of the drilled holes. I am hoping this is the normal chemical reaction?
The rods start to work when they com in contact with moisture, if you need to know the ins and outs just go on the Safeguard website
@dampsam
Hi, did you research further into this? Is the white paste normal? I have the same issue in my house, lots of crap left under the floorboards, sand etc. Did clearing it all out help?
Hey great vid can you do it on the inside or is it just outside
Both inside and out or just from one side
Damp meters are a con the wall often isn't damp it's just Salts in the Plaster work! Real damp is usually caused by Bridging (out side ground to high or blocked or broken down pipes Cement pointing of older properties is bad for the Bilding Don't be Conned by the damp Industry
He’s here look whispering grass with his made up profile .if you can interpret the meter reading and patterns of dampness you could use the cheapest meter on the market and still know what type of damp it was. Not all damp is rising.
hi Simon, so is it always better to install these on the outside of the property rather than inside through the plaster? I also need to install some on a inside wall, will I need to hack all the plaster off to get to the brick or can I simply drill through the plaster and wait for the rods to work and let the plaster dry out that way? thanks
Never drill through the plaster to install these it’s bad practice, always hack off the plaster if it’s contaminated or damp and reinstate with one of the salt neutralising methods. You can install the rod internally and externally or just from one side if you get the depth right.
If the original damp course has been bridged, do you need to remove the bridging or can you just inject a new damp course above?
There are lots of different scenarios around how and why the bridging has occurred because there can be that many different types. I would need to have a lot more info on yours before I could make an informed decision.
Hi all. My grandfather had this type of job carried out on his property by some workmen who knocked on his door. They charged him £16000 for two walls. When the damp returned we tried to contact them but there was no answer. So we had it looked at by another builder and lo and behold they had used a ladies sanitary product instead of the dry rod product to bung the hole!
To say we were shocked is an understatement.
These Irish builders had no idea what they were doing.
Anyway, the new builder used this product instead and it has worked wonderfully.
This is because they are nonsense and will not cure a damp problem......rising damp is nonsense.....this house has cement pointing on it holding in moisture and was most likely built with lime which is breathable......needs taking off and use lime and the issue will go
@@adventureswiththelittleone493 Johnny Rocket commented above saying they did work...You talk about removing all non lime products on a building and replacing like it's a straightforward job...If I'd of carried out the kind of work you mention it would've cost me nearly as much as the property is worth. Talk is cheap, carrying out the sort of work you fire off about isn't. It cured my rising damp problem(oh it exists I assure you) as it did Johnnys grandfather so I'm guessing you're not as knowledgeable as you'd like to think you are..
Great video im not 100% we have a good dpc there is evidence of dpc course inside etc at ground (moved door way ) but outside has a pebble dash finish that stops about 1 brick height 75mm from ground level so can not see at 150mm ?
Hi kevin, is this a question about the video or your own property?
@@dampsam sorry my own property my bad for not specifying thanks
Hello,
Just subscribed to your channel.
I need help can you tell me which is best between
A = DAMPSOLVE Damp Proof Cream Kit
B= Dryrod Damp Proofing Rods DPC Kit
To stop raising damp ?
Hi Simon,
Very informative video as always.
Did the damp proof sticks or injection need to above the floorboards?
Or can they be below the floorboards.
If it's below the footboards, and damp rises. Will the floorboards not get affected by the rising damp?
Thank you
We always retrofit above floorboards but every job is different, inside this particular job the floor is solid to that room.
@@dampsam thanks for the video, but surely one would damp proof below the floor boards and joists to prevent rot ?? I am not a builder so im a bit confused .
Do you need to check for pipes or electrical wires on the other side of the wall before drilling or is it not that deep?
No it’s not that deep, you don’t drill past the first brick leaf if doing both sides
Also if im right.
Instead of using the drysticks you can also use instead the sicamur liquid injection cream.
yes you can use the creams if they have a BBA certificate for damp proofing
I am in Ghana I need the rod can someone help me out
If you have a damp proof course can you put these above it as well
You can but need a good reason why
Hi Simon, I've studied building surveying at university and in the three year course not much was spent on damp lectures (unfortunately). After I graduated I then went on the PCA surveyor training (I haven't taken the exams yet) and found it really interesting. I can see both sides of the "lime v DPC injections" argument. The question I would ask the people who are adamant that rising damp is a myth is how do ground salts end up in masonry/plaster? I've done a few salt analysis tests and found chloride etc. in my samples. These salts weant there when the building was constructed.
Also Simon what do you think of Peter Ward and his opinion of the PCA?
Top Fella hi, with regards to peter iv no issue with lime plasters, ventilation and old techniques but I wish he wouldn’t generalise all dampproofers, there are bad ones and that is the problem in our industry that keeps being highlighted.
Peter used to be a PCA member and there was a court case where he lost and that may be something to do with his crusade.
@@dampsam Thanks for reply mate. Yes I like his videos (peter) but he seems to have it in for the PCA and their members. When I was down at Huntington I found all the lads at the PCA to be very knowledgeable and genuine. I think it's unfair as I'm a surveyor and not a tradesman myself so I've referred countless damp problems onto good qualified people like yourself to carry out remedial works and I've never had a call back. As you say mate good and bad in every walk of life, but it is shocking how the average Joe builder/DIY person think their damp experts just because they can't properly use a damp meter.
@@pmoon9551 the salts come from the cement.
@@SigurdVolsunga really? And on buildings constructed using lime bound mortar only?
Hi, I'm about to use the Dryzone system on a house with cavity walls. Can you inject the cream or do you need to use the rods? I think I heard the cream is just for solid walls? Would appreciate your advice - cheers.
Glynn Hancock hi Glyn you can use either, if you look on the Safeguard website there will be drawings showing you how to drill each type of wall , solid of cavity. 👍
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks Simon. When I rang them for advice, they said to avoid the cream dripping into the cavity it was best to use the rods. Your videos are really useful. 👍
Glynn Hancock hi, the rods are great I love them as you get the right amount in the hole every time, you could still use cream if the wall is drilled from both sides,
When drilling a wall you don’t go all the way through, you drill two thirds the way in. Or 20mm from the far edge, takes a bit of doing though on some walls .
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks much appreciated 👍
why does it need to be a minimum 150mm please
Externally to avoid rainwater splash back
Hi Simon, can i use dryrod or dryzone liquid in ytong building blocks? or is it only applicable for mortar course/ Tks...G
Hi, in not familiar with Ytong building blocks, is this a manufacturers name, what type are they?