Damp Course Using Damp Proofing Rods (How & Why)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- Damp proofing rods are a relatively simple and inexpensive way of doing a damp proof course (DPC). In this video, John explains why we use damp proofing rods and how they work effectively.
There are plenty of methods and plenty of products on the market for doing a damp course. We use damp proofing rods because they are easy to install and relatively quick to take effect. This is the method of installation:
🔵 Plaster is removed from the bottom of the walls up to a height of 1.5m - this is because rising damp can reach a height of up to approx 1.2m. Rising damp not only brings moisture but also brings hygroscopic salts, nitrates, and chlorides. By removing 1.5m of plaster, you are effectively eliminating any contaminated plaster.
🔵 Holes are drilled into the mortar (usually the first layer of mortar after the first row of bricks from the floor) at the perpend junctions. So approximately every half-brick. The depth of the hole depends on the depth of damp proofing rod you require. We use Dry Rods, which come in lengths of 180mm that can be cut to size. For walls thicker than 9”, multiple rods can be combined.
🔵 The damp proofing rods are inserted into the pre-drilled holes and left to cure. Each rod contains exactly the right amount of water repellent material - known as silane concentrate.
🔵 Once cured, the silane concentrate seeps into the wall to form an extremely effective damp barrier. It will dry out the damp wall 𝘢𝘯𝘥 stop rising damp from setting back in. As John demonstrates, you can actually see this happening. Once the water repellent material from one perpend has seeped sufficiently to reach the next, you know that the barrier has been formed.
For more information on the Dry Rod damp proofing rods that we use, you can visit safeguardstore...
Need help with your property refurbishment?
Get HYPE!
Call us on 01782 930043
#dampproofingrods #dampproofcourse #dampproof
____________________________________________________________________
Subscribe to HYPE TV for:
⚫️ PROPERTY INVESTMENT KNOWLEDGE
⚫️ PROPERTY REFURBISHMENT TIPS (WE'RE HMO SPECIALISTS)
⚫️ BUILDING PROJECTS
⚫️ ADVICE FROM BUILDING EXPERTS
Visit our website hypebuilding.c...
Call 01782 930043
We're not just passionate about property, we're HYPE
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Best video of this so far. I was wondering how some sticks on a wall would stop the damp but you have explained it well. Thank you champ
Really appreciate your kind words, mate. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch our video and leave us your thoughts 🙂👍
Yes he did!
“Done right ! And that’s what it’s all about “ . Love it !
🤣 That is, indeed, what it's all about. Doing it RIGHT!
Thanks for watching, David, and leaving us your feedback - much appreciated 👍
Atlast a video showing the affects of these dryrods. Only took me 3 hours to find this vid but good job I did. Thank you for the info buddy.
Hi Alwyn. We're absolutely delighted that you found the video helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to leave us your feedback - we genuinely appreciate it 😀👌
Thank you. Very useful
Okay, now I get it. thank you my friend!
As I understand, you are saying, the moisture in the wall, draws out the DryRod chemical which, now in solution, migrates through the brick towards the next rod, making a waterproof barrier.
Thank you.
A previous explanation stated that DryRod soaks up the moisture. That would be impossible to soak up every rainstorm into a course of absorbent rods. Thanks Mate, respect 👊 (🇨🇦)
Hi John, Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave us your thoughts 🙂👍
What actually happens is that the chemicals are drawn out of the damp rods because sand and cement are porous. We install the rods at every perpend (or 'perp') so that a barrier is formed.
The damp rods prevent moisture from rising from the ground (through capillary action). Otherwise damp can travel as much as 1.5m up the wall.
Hope that makes sense.
Can you do this from outside wall instead of inside
You are a good man thanks for help buddy
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your kind words 👍 We're really happy that you found the content useful.
viewers i got to say this guy knows what he is talking about i have been in this industry since 1986 and i totally agree with the videos he is putting out well done to you sir your are truly one of the good guys
Hi Andy. We can't thank you enough for your kind words. We aim to help and advise people as much as we can - so to get great feedback like this makes it all worthwhile.
A massive thank you from everyone at HYPE Building 🙏👍😀
Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering how these rods form a waterproof barrier for the gap/distance in between them. So the waterproof material seeps into the mortar/cement/brick after the chemical reaction starts taking place.
Quick question - I have a hallway wall that has raising damp on both sides. Does the plaster for the 1st 1.2/5m's need to come off on both sides for the rods to work? Or just one side as it's essentially the same brick wall! Thanks!
Hi there, fantastic video! Great to see them in action. I'm looking to install dry rods in unused exposed brick fireplace. Would this be suitable for an area of exposed brick? I worry the bleeding/patching of the product may make the bricks look unsightly, or does it soak into the brick and eventually dry?
Hi Sam. Thanks for watching and for your great feedback - much appreciated 👍 With regard to your question: the product does soak into the cement - it should dry out after a little while. Having said that, we would recommend testing this on a location that's not as visible. Hope that helps, mate.
Great info 🙌
As always, thanks so much for watching and for your kind words - truly appreciated 👍
Thanks for this great video. I have a question, if I may. I have a single skin kitchen wall in a Victorian property where there is rising damp. The other side of the wall is exposed in the sense that there is nothing on the other side - back on to paving in my garden. That other side is the outside which is rendered. Well known damp companies have inspected and recommended a chemical dpc but also tanking the wall. There is no evidence of penetrating damp. If I were to simply insert these rods, would there be a need for tanking the wall as well? I just dont understand the point of tanking as the rods should deal with the rising damp and there is no penetrating/lateral damp. Tanking here seems only a way for companies to make money.
Hi there. Thanks for your question. From what you've described, it sounds like a DPC would be sufficient. However, without actually seeing the issues, we couldn't guarantee that that is the case.
Thank you for watching our video. We genuinely appreciate it 👍
Thanks for the video and explanation, much appreciated.
Question, my builder has used these rods on the outside wall, whereas you have used in the inside. Is there a difference or doesn't it matter. Thanks.
Thank you for your message, it depends on the construction of the house, as an example are the outside walls 4 inch, 9 inch or with a cavity, if its 4 inch or 9 we go all the way through.
@HYPEBuilding appreciate you getting back to me. Really helped making sense of things.
@@Chalky555 Glad we could help :)
Great video thank you
Great video and thanks for the advice. My 1930's external walls are pebbledashed down to 1 course of brick above ground which is at a height of 75mm, the exposed brick course is covered with a black bitumen type paint. Question: do I drill the bricks just under where the pebbledash finishes even though I cant see the perps clearly or should I drill through the pebbledash on 150mm height from ground at 120mm intervals and then cover the holes with the mortar compound ? appreciate your help please.
Hi Javad. Thanks for your question. We would advise you to go a brick above floor level internally. If this means you're drilling through the pebbledash, you will need to remove the pebbledash below that course - otherwise it will create a breach. The 150mm above ground is a recommendation for new-builds but this isn't always achievable in older properties - but get as close to that distance as you can.
Hope that helps and thank you for watching our video 👍🙂
Great vid. Is this just for internal walls or can it be use externally, or do you have to have a machine for external walls?
Hello mate, I hope you can answer my little question.
After drilling and placing all the rods, how long should I wait until i put some mortar over them holes?
would you recommend to drill it in internally, or do it from the outside?
hello mate, either way results in the same outcome.
Hi i have sold walls single brickwork inside, at the moment the damp is on the some of the inner walls. How much of the brickwork would need to be to exposed beneath the plasterwork for access. Thanks best regards
Hi there. You need to take the plaster off to a height of 1200mm. Thanks for watching and for your question - much appreciated 👍🙂
Hi I'm going to try this, would there be a risk of me drilling into any gaspipes or electrical wires?
Hi,
I've got a question. I have a problem of rising damp. I've knocked down rendering on the inside of the room and it turned out that instead of bricks I have discovered Aerated Blocks. I've bought 50 dry rods but not sure now how to put them in to the blocks. What is best to use? Or how to put the dry rods into the blocks? Many thanks
Thanks for this explanation 👍 one question, can this chemical bleed through the plaster and affect the paint finish ? I’m planning on doing it behind the skirting board. Thanks
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. If you do things properly, the chemical shouldn't be able to find its way through to the paintwork as there is only enough moisture in each rod to reach the next perp (perpend).
Hope that helps 👍
Ive been told the best way to deal with chimney salts is to knock all the render off, then spray it with TG500 and use Sika 1 in the mix. Is this right for chimney salts?
Hi there. We're not familiar with the products that you've mentioned. However, we would be inclined to use tanking membrane in this scenario as it's a relatively straightforward and cost-effective method. You can learn more about tanking membrane in this video: th-cam.com/video/ExDF9u97EI0/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps. Thank you for watching our video and for your question 🙂👍
how do you use those if you have a cavity wall ? do you drill trough cavity to reach second wall ?
On a cavity wall you only need to do the Internal skin.
Does the end of the rods need pointing in with sand and cement?
How far do you drill into the wall ? Do you need to install on the internal and external for this to work ?
your seem to be level with the brick but other videos show them being pushed in 10mm and then plastered in. which way is correct ?
hello mate, weather it's 110mm in or flush with the wall it makes no difference, just insure it doesn't interfere with what plaster method you're using.
@@HYPEBuilding thanks
Hi, I have a very old building of single wall construction. Do you recommend I install the dry rods from the inside or the outside? If outside, should it be above or below the defective damp proof coursing? Thanks :)
Hi Steven. Thanks for watching and for your questions. It doesn't really make a difference which way you do it. The way we do it, however, is inside to out - but without drilling all the way through. For example, if you have a 4-inch wall you would drill 3 and 3/4 inches through so you don't have to point outside. You will also need to establish the reason for the damp course failing in the first place.
Hope that helps.
@@HYPEBuilding Thanks for the video and making it pretty much an idiots guide, I plan on doing mine form the outside it's a 9 inch solid wall in a very old house, the plaster inside is okay so I don't want to disturb it, would you agree that this is the right way to go about it?
Hi @@Paul-eb4jp. Are you doing this as a preventative method or because you have a damp issue? If it's the latter, we would advise you to remove the plaster as it's that which contains the contaminants. If you don't remove it, you will still have signs of the issue.
Hope that helps and thank you for watching our video -much appreciated 👍
I've had a DPC done 5 weeks ago, and in parts where the skirting would usually sit, if i put a damp meter on it, it shows 20% moisture. I've been advised this is because the wrong type of plaster has been used. They have used Gypsum thistle bonding and gypsum thistle multi finish plaster. Is this eventually going to dry out? Or will this sit there, and needs redoing
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. We can't really diagnose without seeing photos, as there are so many factors that can influence the answer. If you want to send some photos to askme@hypebuilding.co.uk we will do our best to help 👍
Do you cut the rods before inserting them. I have 33cm thick walls. Do i drill at least 30cm or only drill the size of the rods?
The wall I’m dealing with is 310mm thick, can I use two rods in one hole or can I get rod that are over 310mm long?
Hi Nick. Thanks for your question. In this situation, it's probably best to use 2 rods.
Thank you for watching our video - much appreciated 👍
I got a terrace house and it has had damp course before on the outside,as there are the holes already there.but they are In the brick,at correct depth and distance.
Does it need t be in the mortar or this will work in the brick as well.wonder why they have done that.
Hi there. Very good question. Going into the brick is the old method - so this isn't incorrect. However, newer technology, such as the damp proof rods, work in a different way. They need to be inserted into the mortar to allow for capillary action.
Thank you for watching our video and for your comments - much appreciated.
@@HYPEBuilding then I think I have to buy more dryrods and make new whole to put the new corse in.
Thanks
What about inner wall in cavity walls?
Hello mate, yes of course still do it.
Im currently doing the dryrod install from inside my home. How long do you leave the rods before applying the XR mortar that comes with the kit? Cheers
Hi there. Here is the advice from Safeguard website:
"…for Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods wait at least 14 days before filling drill holes."
Here's the datasheet where this information has come from: static.safeguardeurope.com/downloads/datasheets/stormdry/Stormdry-XR-Mortar-datasheet.pdf
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching our video 👍
Great video, I plan on using these on an older building with solid walls about 400mm thick. I was going to drill and insert rods from both sides. One side is plastered and the other is pointed stone, will the rod pints always appear wet?
Hi David. Thanks for watching and for your kind words 🙂👍 In response to your question, once the cement has pulled all the moisture from the rod, it will go dry and not appear wet.
great video thanks. do you think this will work for where we can't add a damp course as the side of the wall is internal? and do they need to be replaced or is it a one off? thanks
Hi there. Not quite sure what you mean with the first part. But yes, the damp rods are a one-off solution provided they're installed properly. Thank you for watching our video and your questions 👍
H Brett, if the house has been treated before in the past some years back , is it possible to re drill the existing hole that are visible on the outside of the house and then put theses rods in, or do you drill new holes above on another mortar bed ?
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍 You can re-drill the same holes - as long as the they are in the mortar, not in the brick. Hope that helps.
You’re such a vibe massive
We've just Googled what it means when someone is referred to as a 'vibe' and, apparently, a vibe is "a woman who is attractive and fun to be around". So we're not too sure how to take that, mate 🤣🤣
However, we're very grateful that you like the content. Stay tuned for more, Mr Cadmanhead 😀👌😘
Used these , three months on, the rods look just the same, the mortar in my wall is still reading 33% on my meter, ( and this is in the summer months ) which is the maximum it will go to. I think I have been conned, big time. Thank god I only did a 10 foot interior wall, as a test before doing the whole house.
Hi there. Thank you for watching our video and sorry to hear about your experience. However, in all the years we've been using damp rods, we've never had an issue.
How long after I install them can I re render and plaster my wall ?
Hi Nick. Thank you for watching our video and for your question. There isn't really a fixed time for this - it's just when you feel satisfied that the wall is dry enough. We tend to leave around 2-3 weeks on average for it to properly dry out.
Important to remember that the DPC will stop any water from the ground going beyond the point of the DPC. But anything above the DPC will still contain moisture to a certain extent.
Hope that helps, mate. Thanks again for watching 🙂👍
What brand of dry rods do you recommend?
@Dryzone by @safeguardeurope
How long should I leave the holes open before filling the ends with mortar?
Hi Paul. Thanks for watching and for your question. This one is down to your own discretion, really. In theory, you can cover them straight away if you're confident in the product doing what it should do. But you may want to wait until you can see the chemical patches begin to touch. It boils down to how confident you are that they have done their job.
Hi, thanks for this great walkthrough on DryRods. Do you need to fill the ends, if it's inside and behind skirting board what difference is there if the ends are covered or not?
Useful video mate. Just one question. If drilling holes from outside do you leave the hole open or do you fill end in with mortar or silicone?? Advice appreciated.
Fill with mortar or a special mortar filler. It's like a tenner on Amazon and comes in a tube like caulking. There's another vid where the guy uses it
Hi there. Many thanks for watching and for your question 🙂👍 You would fill the holes and you can use either mortar or silicone depending on your preference. Whichever you think is more aesthetically pleasing.
My concrete floor doesn't appear to have any dpm when built and the floor sweats moisture. Would this be a solution to that?
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. The rods wouldn't be a solution for a floor - they're only used in walls. You would, as you say, need DPM for the floor.
if im using thes on an external wall, 150mm above the ground, does it matter where they are situated when it comes to the blue bricks? would it matter if they were above or below or in the middle of the 2 courses? Thanks
Hi Michael. Thanks for your questions. It mostly depends on the floor height inside. It also depends on whether you have a concrete floor or a wooden floor. It's not easy to say what you should do without actually seeing the situation.
Thank you for watching our video - we genuinely appreciate it 🙂👍
Do the rods have to to be installed on the internall wall or external wall. Or both.
Hi Brett. Thank you for your question. The damp rods have to be installed on the internal and external walls.
Thanks for watching our video - much appreciated 🙂👍
great vid mate. I have a question how high up the wall do I drill the holes? the floor is currently concrete as I havent built the floating insulated chipboard floor yet. cheers!
I think it’s just as low down as you can get
Hi
I followed this video and used them but did not see any dissolve with seeing them wet...will they still activate...? Thanks
Hi Azhar. If you've drilled to the right depth, drilled in the right places (the perpends), and installed the rods properly, then these rods should work very effectively.
@HYPEBuilding thanks I followed the instructions etc and as you say...but didn't see them react...like in your video...hopefully they have the impact. Thank you for your reply.
@@azharaltaf4952 If you're confident you've installed them properly, you should see the damp rods take effect as they 'bleed' into each other. Maybe contact the manufacturer if you don't see them react, as you may have a faulty pack 👍
I called the technical helpline and they gave assurances that these will work and take 4 to 6 weeks to cure. Strange things is I've done another wall and still not seen it react ! Hopefully it works
Do I just need to go through my internal course of bricks or just stop before punching through the outer brick ( through both courses) Im thinking just the first internal course, please advise me, thanks
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question. There are a few things we need to ascertain first before we can advise.
Is it a solid wall construction or a cavity wall? Is it an external wall or an internal wall? What type of property is it - detached, semi-detached or terraced?
@@HYPEBuilding cavity wall,external, semi and house ( ground and upstairs) thanks
@@stevobob2069 If it has a cavity but doesn't have a damp course built in, then you can get away with doing the internal wall with the damp rods.
However, it might be worth removing a brick to check that the cavity is free from any obstructions (like mortar 'snots'). If the cavity is obstructed, there is potential for a bridge, which could create a path for moisture.
Hope that helps.
@@HYPEBuilding thanks
Would this work on a mass concrete wall?
If it's been built out of block and a mortar bed, then yes.
@@HYPEBuilding Thanks for the reply, it is just mass concrete which is old, strong and very porous . As far as I know it is still good
Can you use these instead of exposing a damp proof course that has been hidden by slabs ie no longer 100mm clearance from garden floor? Thanks....
Hi there. Thanks for watching and for your question.Yes, you can use these as a fresh damp course 👍
@@HYPEBuilding Thank you, great video.
@@Mobile-pd1uc Thanks, mate 👍
Hi Brett. What do you think about whether this is suitable for walls with poor strength that also require crack stitching? I am a bit apprehensive that it would weaken the wall due to the sheer number of holes drilled. The mortar is quite soft in places. Is it worth repointing first, or is there a better product or solution? Thank you 🙂
Hi there. Very good question 👍 You can use the rods on walls that are in poor condition. If you're worried about the integrity of the wall, you can always repoint it beforehand.
Hope that helps. Thank you for watching our video, we truly appreciate it.
p.s. Not sure who Brett is 🤣
@@HYPEBuilding Thank you. Looks like repointing time. If the house collapses - I'll drop a message 😅 Would be nice if they came down a bit in price or had a few competitors. For a stick of chemicals, it's a bit overpriced.
@@SC-hk6ui 😄 They're not cheap, but they do fix the problem. You can use the cream, but we've found the rods to be a better solution as they contain exactly the right amount of chemicals.
@@HYPEBuilding i was quoted 4.5k for someone to come in and use some damp proof cream, 100 rods for 250 seems cheap now!
@@stevenm8970 If you know what you're doing, and where to drill etc. it's certainly far cheaper to do it yourself. The only slight problem with that, of course, is that you wouldn't get a guarantee.
well we've got the holes in the wall but an put a biro about 6 cm into wall, but the rods will be too long i think
In 27 years of diagnosing damp issues I have never once recommended the use of 'damp proofing rods'. Find and fix the cause of the damp and you will not need to hack off plaster or use use rods. Even before the advent of DPC's and cavity walls we didn't build properties that would easily allow rising or penetrating damp.
Thanks for watching, Stephen and for leaving us your thoughts.
In our humble opinion, times have changed and so has the way we live. Why do we now build homes with damp proof courses if there is no need for them?
Houses were once heated with coal fires, which didn't regulate the heat but would have dried out rising damp. Today we use thermostats, which provide constant heat at lower temperatures - but signs of rising damp are more evident.
Every day is a school day and we're certainly not going to dismiss any newer methods that are proven to work effectively.
@@HYPEBuilding Before the advent of the modern DPC which we now build houses with, solid wall construction usually had a mortar plinth of around 12" (30cms) and sometimes painted black to do the same job coupled with internal walls battened out with lathe and plaster to do a similar job to cavity walls. Yes, they were not as effective as the modern systems but generally they worked just as well unless they were compromised. My argument with 'damp proofing' companies is that they don't look for or try to fix the underlying causes but instead turn to their go to solution of drilling and injecting (which often looks bloody awful) and removing plaster and using vapour check creams and plasterboard to hide the damp. I went to a property last week where the landlord was quoted £6000 for damp proofing works which turned out to be a leaking soil pipe as the cause and was resolved for less than £200
completely agree. This course of action is total nonsense.
Use gloves when handling dry rods ,they can seriously dry your skin out,
This is pure fraud. Using rods does nothing to tackle damp.
We have used damp proof rods on dozens of properties and never had any issues.
Pure fraud.