Holy cow, the simple things in life. Combine two feeler gauges together to get the measurement you needed for gapping them. MIND BLOWN!! I appreciate it, bud!
Very helpful and informative, and as I figured, the tips shown are the basic ways I was taught 45 years ago from my father gapping plugs. Moreover replacing my first set of modern plugs I sensed right away the delicate nature of the the electrode, and thanks to this video confirmed the methods I use to gap plugs is correct. There are many videos this one was the better video in my opinion simple and to the point.
Great video, I just got a Lang 4550A ramp gauge tool with a built-in electrode bender. Also, that tool to bend the electrodes down is nice, but I've always used feeler gauges and cleaned them off first, then used a dial calculator to check the blades.
Dig the video for sure, but you dont "wedge" the gap open on the outside measuring side..... the "hole for the key ring" actually has a ledge inside that is where you place the grounding bar to open it up...amatures "wedge open" from the outside measuring side lol!! No hate though fella!! Excellent vid!! Keep up the good work!!
That "quarter-looking" dial gapper I got from AZ was OFF by 3. Used two different micrometers and both said "OFF BY 3!" Decided I'd try and install - BIG MISTAKE. Misfire haven. Hubby said use the feeler gauges. Car now runs soooooooooooooooooooooo much better.
With the coin gapper you don’t just shove the ramp into the plug gap to open it up. It’s just used to measure the gap. You use the small “key ring” hole to open the gap which puts no pressure on the electrode. Still not the best for fine electrode plugs such as platinum, iridium, or ruthenium, but if used properly they are not complete trash.
Ive used all 3 tools to gap platinum and iridium plugs from lawn mowers to weed eaters to different automobiles...have never had a problem with any, including the "coin" type.
People don't understand how to use the coin tool I guess. You never need to pry against the electrode with the coin tool, that's what the small 'O' opening is for!
I haven't even made it into the Vid and it's Not silly. My NGK's have a stinger/electrode on the strap end too. So it looks like 2 electrodes facing each other.. On mine.. They come pre gaped but I have laid them on the table and seen one off from the rest and had to tap it in a little. They are sensitive. wow. Oh and 25 a plug.. a $100 for 4 spark plugs.. I have that gapper and the one time I used it, I learned a $25 lesson..
Great video, I learned not to get this configuration but get the type where you lay the plug in it and don't have to screw the plugs in and out over and over WTH :o
How often should the gap be checked on a (hard driven) daily driver, and also how many times can a spark plug be adjusted safely before the electrode becomes dangerously weakened? Thank you for your work in compiling these videos and for sharing your knowledge.
Incognito for a daily you might not run into an issue ever. If hard driven you will likely be changing plugs every 40k if not sooner. Plugs are a maintenance item and an important one so for me I check them every oil change. If you need to adjust them I do that once and if it opens up again I replace them. When racing like road racing, time attack, etc.. I like to check them after each session which might be overkill, however if you drop a plug you could destroy the whole motor! On the racecar it’s just part of our session run downs.. check oil, plugs, scan ecu, hoses, coolant, boost leaks, hose clamps, certain nuts and bolts we check torque, etc. doing this we have had 1 built motor last 4 seasons and still running!! Thanks for watching! We will keeps these coming and have a ton of awesome videos in the works 😁
There's me thinking that I could no longer tap these on the vice so I tried using pliers, slipped and trashed the porcelain. A tenner down the drain and another week for the replacement to arrive ffs. The coin type gauge is fine and you expand the gap with the hole. They are a great idea, if used correctly, so don't bin it like this video suggests.
You buy a set of pliyers that set the plug for you. With my Pro-Mod we so not use these tools. Also most over the counter plug come pre gapped to the engine your buying for. Most of them have a warring on them that says do not gap. But for racing they have tools just for this that make it easy for you. Most plugs you can go up or down no further then .008. you should size the plug to the chamber and piston. Then you choose a plug that burns hot of cold. By the number on the plug or on the box. If you gapping most people are doing it for a race engine. Not for the everyday vehicle. Most NGK plugs comes .020.
I am trying to replace my spark plugs for the first time and I keep hearing the coin-type is thrash. HOWEVER, what if you just pick a size on the coin-tool and with your eyes next to it try and isnert between the electrodes and see if it fits literally without making contact. Then you'd go up or down until you find a size which slightly touches the electrodes. NO SLIDING. Isn't this the same thing you're doing with the other 2 types. Someone let me know if I'm missing something.
The coin-types are still trash, they are not very accurate - they are cheaply made and the fact that they are a wedge design means that measurements aren't very precise. If you're not seeking precision, just run the plug as-is pre-gapped. Otherwise, invest in precise tools. Personally, if it's not way off I don't think -/+ 0.003" matters all that much e.g. if the pre-gap plug was 0.030" I wouldn't bother with the hassle of adjusting it to 0.028" if that was the listed spec.
Chris Closas racing plugs we haven’t had to gap. We usually only use them for one /two road race events. But I’m sure you can or people do. Hell people go all out of plugs and index them as well
the round plug gaper the hole in the tool is the adjuster that adjusts the gap ! the grd. electrode is bent up never pried up by the ramped gauge LOOK at the tool ive used them all they all work great I don't mind taping the electrode to close the gap . what you pay for the red tool ? not bad but a tap tap is not bad also
Thank you very helpful, I do have a question. If you can help me with it I'd be very grateful. Denso makes three iridium spark plugs for my vehicle two of the gaps are.044 and the one I bought is .040. The OEM plugs are one of the .044's. should I run the ones I bought at .040 like denso lists or gap them to .044? The motors is not modified at all.
bpattillo707 hey there. I would run with the oem gap. I’m not sure which plug you have but you can probably open the GAp a bit. What is the plug part number?
@@KDMTUNERS So the plugs I have are IXEH22TT and are gaped at .040. The FXE2211 are the exact OEM and they are gaped at .044. They are going in a Nissan vq35hr. Desno lists both for the engine and list the gaps I showed. Thanks a ton I really appreciate it.
Run .044. But OEM is a compromising for several things.... You can use as big of a gap as your Oem ignition will handle. If you drive more for mileage, partial throttle, you aren't running WOT you can increase your gap .010 to .054 get a better more complete burn You can GOOGLE IT. If .010 increase seems like too much to you gap your plugs at .050. Your ignition will easily handle that. If you are using previous metal plugs USE A FEELER GAUGE gently check gaps. Only touch the ground strap to adjust the gap. If the .04mm wire electrode gets nicked IT WILL fall off. Ignition and air intake are big bang for buck. Replace coils & wires with MSD ACCEL MISSION IGNITION all off high out out ignition that aren't a lot more than AutoZone and sometimes less expensive than oem. Get a good DRY hi-flow air cleaner for your car. Stay away from the filters sprayed oil.
David Santiago there are probably 1000 ways to do it, but those two methods work well without over doing it. If you are carful you could hold plug with two hands and push on a hard surface. Tapping if you don’t want to spend $40 is the best option as it usually doesn’t take much and unlikely you will damage anything. Growing up in a speed shop I always seen the old timers doing this. Some might not agree with that method. In a pinch, on a budget, trackside, etc.. tapping works great
This whole gaping thing is actually so complicated. Because they say dont touch the center piece, but you have to if you use all those things to measure the gap. So its literally dumb to me whenever anyone says "dont touch the center piece" and then they touch it anyways, they gave to, all those tools touch the center. So the best i seen is dude just said dont gap them , just put them in car, because the factory gaps them to the proper gap. Its really just anal to try to get it exact anyways. And to much to get it perfect , means you touch that center piece, so any touch is damage according to everyone. So to me i would just take them all out the box and line them up and look at all the gaps together, and any absurdly higher or lower then the rest, then adjust that one. But other then that, i mean, the gaps on all those spark plugs in general are just so super close to almost touching, so the closer i dont think it would be a problem. I would love someone to test my theory. Just gap it to as close without touching and install them and see how car runs. I bet it probably run better. Because those gaps get wider over time. So gapping as close as possible is actually the gold standard if you ask me. Problem with my theory, is i dont think ANYONE has made youtube video to show if this works or messes up car. But i think im right. We need like one of those anal science nerd youtubers to try it. But bottomline is, all i am saying is, all the gapping tools, they call touch the center piece that everyone says not to touch. So all tools have the potential to ruin the whole spark plug. Which to me means, never use any of the tools, and eyeball it and just make gap as small as possible and never put anything in between the center piece and top piece.
Video is informative, but that’s actually not how you use the “round coin, necklace spark plug gap tool” you stick the thru the hole and only apply pressure to the ground electrode.
Why not just use the wire tool to not only open the gap but change your pressure direction to close it back instead of using the other tools or tapping?
My thought is that doing what is stated above might be in danger of touching the electrode. Going away is safer. I took auto tech and our teacher used the tapping method as well. I can't imagine tapping the spark plug lightly like this video could cause harm. You are talking very minimal movements.
I typically used the tool to bend the anode (being referred to in the video as the ground strap) toward the cathode (referred to as the electrode) to close the gap a bit. Tapping is fine, but it's usually dropping the spark plug on all of that plentiful concrete that's eager to catch it for you that will kill a plug. ;-) In reality, if you simply open the plug gap and use one of these much, much nicer tools to gently close it down to spec, you'll be better off.
The circular tool is only a gage! Not a tool to adjust the gap! Wire gage is not recommended. you can damage the iridium tip by dragging the gage thru the gap.
Your bad lighting, or the lack of light in the dark shadowy areas, ruined this video, as what you were doing in the dark areas couldn't be seen. A lot of guess work had to be used. Next time light-up the "shadowy" areas. That said, video was informative.
Since this is a how to video, I think it would be great to tell us what to look for when you are measuring the gap. Saying that's good while sticking your feeler gauge in doesn't tell us anything! How about saying that it should be a tight fit, loose fit, or maybe feeling just a bit of drag. Not a good explanation of how to...
@@pdog2448 More research helps us DIYers anyway...don't you think he did a good job to get us started & thinking about checking the gaps? I never thought to check them with the tool until now. This guy meant well...I like that he introduced the tool AND demonstrated with it.
Correct “feel” for the feeler gauge - is called “magnetic drag”- as you pull the feeler gauge thru it should feel about same as dragging a magnet across a smooth steel surface. 😊😊😊👍👍👍
You know you use the hole on the disc gap tool to open the gap. It's is a perfectly fine tool.
Holy cow, the simple things in life. Combine two feeler gauges together to get the measurement you needed for gapping them. MIND BLOWN!! I appreciate it, bud!
Very helpful and informative, and as I figured, the tips shown are the basic ways I was taught 45 years ago from my father gapping plugs. Moreover replacing my first set of modern plugs I sensed right away the delicate nature of the the electrode, and thanks to this video confirmed the methods I use to gap plugs is correct. There are many videos this one was the better video in my opinion simple and to the point.
Great video, I just got a Lang 4550A ramp gauge tool with a built-in electrode bender. Also, that tool to bend the electrodes down is nice, but I've always used feeler gauges and cleaned them off first, then used a dial calculator to check the blades.
Dig the video for sure, but you dont "wedge" the gap open on the outside measuring side..... the "hole for the key ring" actually has a ledge inside that is where you place the grounding bar to open it up...amatures "wedge open" from the outside measuring side lol!!
No hate though fella!! Excellent vid!! Keep up the good work!!
That "quarter-looking" dial gapper I got from AZ was OFF by 3. Used two different micrometers and both said "OFF BY 3!" Decided I'd try and install - BIG MISTAKE. Misfire haven. Hubby said use the feeler gauges. Car now runs soooooooooooooooooooooo much better.
I think you just opened my eyes. Glad I watched this video. I'll try not to use the Auto zone Chinese tool anymore. Noted.
With the coin gapper you don’t just shove the ramp into the plug gap to open it up. It’s just used to measure the gap. You use the small “key ring” hole to open the gap which puts no pressure on the electrode. Still not the best for fine electrode plugs such as platinum, iridium, or ruthenium, but if used properly they are not complete trash.
Helpful video, thanks
You need to check the gap with the pressure of the tool off of the electrode because the electrode springs back a little when you back off the knob.
Can you add some heat when it’s compressed to prevent it from springing back?
My thoughts exactly. How can a tool that large only do one thing plenty of room to make it bend it back somewhere on that thing
Throw your gauge away folks! Just tap the fucker on some concrete😂
>you put a lot of pressure with it
then don't put a lot of pressure
even your tool can put a gigantic force if used with blunt force
Thanks for this kind of videos
Coin styles work just clearly some people don't know how to use them lol
Ive used all 3 tools to gap platinum and iridium plugs from lawn mowers to weed eaters to different automobiles...have never had a problem with any, including the "coin" type.
People don't understand how to use the coin tool I guess. You never need to pry against the electrode with the coin tool, that's what the small 'O' opening is for!
That was my initial reaction, he just was never taught correctly.
You can gap it with the quarter gauge,I've been gapping all,new and old style sparkplugs,its not the car its the driver that makes a difference 😎
Great video, straight to all the important points.
So when you're using the feeler gauge are u slightly touching the electrode then?
Kappa Ross very slightly but not putting any pressure on it at all
It's good for copper plugs bro round disk works good with one dollar plugs
I haven't even made it into the Vid and it's Not silly. My NGK's have a stinger/electrode on the strap end too. So it looks like 2 electrodes facing each other.. On mine.. They come pre gaped but I have laid them on the table and seen one off from the rest and had to tap it in a little. They are sensitive. wow. Oh and 25 a plug.. a $100 for 4 spark plugs.. I have that gapper and the one time I used it, I learned a $25 lesson..
Great video, I learned not to get this configuration but get the type where you lay the plug in it and don't have to screw the plugs in and out over and over WTH :o
you were right, the bridge is called a strap, ground strap.
How often should the gap be checked on a (hard driven) daily driver, and also how many times can a spark plug be adjusted safely before the electrode becomes dangerously weakened? Thank you for your work in compiling these videos and for sharing your knowledge.
Incognito for a daily you might not run into an issue ever. If hard driven you will likely be changing plugs every 40k if not sooner. Plugs are a maintenance item and an important one so for me I check them every oil change. If you need to adjust them I do that once and if it opens up again I replace them.
When racing like road racing, time attack, etc.. I like to check them after each session which might be overkill, however if you drop a plug you could destroy the whole motor!
On the racecar it’s just part of our session run downs.. check oil, plugs, scan ecu, hoses, coolant, boost leaks, hose clamps, certain nuts and bolts we check torque, etc. doing this we have had 1 built motor last 4 seasons and still running!!
Thanks for watching! We will keeps these coming and have a ton of awesome videos in the works 😁
There's me thinking that I could no longer tap these on the vice so I tried using pliers, slipped and trashed the porcelain. A tenner down the drain and another week for the replacement to arrive ffs. The coin type gauge is fine and you expand the gap with the hole. They are a great idea, if used correctly, so don't bin it like this video suggests.
Next time chick up a 4 inch C clamp in a bench vice.
how do we gap the slanted tip spark plugs? i know the NGK R2556G-8 has a slanted tip
Outstanding!
You buy a set of pliyers that set the plug for you. With my Pro-Mod we so not use these tools. Also most over the counter plug come pre gapped to the engine your buying for. Most of them have a warring on them that says do not gap. But for racing they have tools just for this that make it easy for you. Most plugs you can go up or down no further then .008. you should size the plug to the chamber and piston. Then you choose a plug that burns hot of cold. By the number on the plug or on the box. If you gapping most people are doing it for a race engine. Not for the everyday vehicle. Most NGK plugs comes .020.
I am trying to replace my spark plugs for the first time and I keep hearing the coin-type is thrash. HOWEVER, what if you just pick a size on the coin-tool and with your eyes next to it try and isnert between the electrodes and see if it fits literally without making contact. Then you'd go up or down until you find a size which slightly touches the electrodes. NO SLIDING. Isn't this the same thing you're doing with the other 2 types. Someone let me know if I'm missing something.
The coin-types are still trash, they are not very accurate - they are cheaply made and the fact that they are a wedge design means that measurements aren't very precise. If you're not seeking precision, just run the plug as-is pre-gapped. Otherwise, invest in precise tools. Personally, if it's not way off I don't think -/+ 0.003" matters all that much e.g. if the pre-gap plug was 0.030" I wouldn't bother with the hassle of adjusting it to 0.028" if that was the listed spec.
Thank you guys for this. Super helpful
Can Racing spark plugs be gapped such as Denso (5749) IKH01-24? The ground strap on these is different and much thinner.
Chris Closas racing plugs we haven’t had to gap. We usually only use them for one /two road race events. But I’m sure you can or people do. Hell people go all out of plugs and index them as well
Let's say I change the gap to a recommended amount and install. Roughly How long should I run them before checking again?
100k miles
the round plug gaper the hole in the tool is the adjuster that adjusts the gap ! the grd. electrode is bent up never pried up by the ramped gauge LOOK at the tool ive used them all they all work great I don't mind taping the electrode to close the gap . what you pay for the red tool ? not bad but a tap tap is not bad also
Cardboard sleeves on threads ??
My flat feeler gauge set for 0.043 gives perfect 0.044 checked with wire gauge tool 0.044 and 0.045 (too big)
What is that red thing called?
anyone who would take a spark plug out of the box and use it without checking the gap is fool.
Thank you very helpful, I do have a question. If you can help me with it I'd be very grateful. Denso makes three iridium spark plugs for my vehicle two of the gaps are.044 and the one I bought is .040. The OEM plugs are one of the .044's. should I run the ones I bought at .040 like denso lists or gap them to .044? The motors is not modified at all.
bpattillo707 hey there. I would run with the oem gap. I’m not sure which plug you have but you can probably open the GAp a bit. What is the plug part number?
@@KDMTUNERS So the plugs I have are IXEH22TT and are gaped at .040. The FXE2211 are the exact OEM and they are gaped at .044. They are going in a Nissan vq35hr. Desno lists both for the engine and list the gaps I showed. Thanks a ton I really appreciate it.
Run .044. But OEM is a compromising for several things.... You can use as big of a gap as your Oem ignition will handle.
If you drive more for mileage, partial throttle, you aren't running WOT you can increase your gap .010 to .054 get a better more complete burn You can GOOGLE IT.
If .010 increase seems like too much to you gap your plugs at .050. Your ignition will easily handle that.
If you are using previous metal plugs USE A FEELER GAUGE gently check gaps. Only touch the ground strap to adjust the gap. If the .04mm wire electrode gets nicked IT WILL fall off.
Ignition and air intake are big bang for buck. Replace coils & wires with MSD ACCEL MISSION IGNITION all off high out out ignition that aren't a lot more than AutoZone and sometimes less expensive than oem.
Get a good DRY hi-flow air cleaner for your car. Stay away from the filters sprayed oil.
Aye so we use mm or the number above?
You have the wrong wire gapping tool url listed in your info..
Where can you buy the screw in type
Ebay and Amazon
I'm getting some dual electrode denso plugs and am worried about gapping them, any advice?
Ya don’t bother with multi electrode spark plugs. They’re a gimmick. A spark will take the shortest route regardless.
any other way to tighten outside of tapping it or a $40 tool?
David Santiago there are probably 1000 ways to do it, but those two methods work well without over doing it. If you are carful you could hold plug with two hands and push on a hard surface. Tapping if you don’t want to spend $40 is the best option as it usually doesn’t take much and unlikely you will damage anything. Growing up in a speed shop I always seen the old timers doing this. Some might not agree with that method. In a pinch, on a budget, trackside, etc.. tapping works great
This whole gaping thing is actually so complicated. Because they say dont touch the center piece, but you have to if you use all those things to measure the gap. So its literally dumb to me whenever anyone says "dont touch the center piece" and then they touch it anyways, they gave to, all those tools touch the center. So the best i seen is dude just said dont gap them , just put them in car, because the factory gaps them to the proper gap. Its really just anal to try to get it exact anyways. And to much to get it perfect , means you touch that center piece, so any touch is damage according to everyone. So to me i would just take them all out the box and line them up and look at all the gaps together, and any absurdly higher or lower then the rest, then adjust that one. But other then that, i mean, the gaps on all those spark plugs in general are just so super close to almost touching, so the closer i dont think it would be a problem. I would love someone to test my theory. Just gap it to as close without touching and install them and see how car runs. I bet it probably run better. Because those gaps get wider over time. So gapping as close as possible is actually the gold standard if you ask me. Problem with my theory, is i dont think ANYONE has made youtube video to show if this works or messes up car. But i think im right. We need like one of those anal science nerd youtubers to try it. But bottomline is, all i am saying is, all the gapping tools, they call touch the center piece that everyone says not to touch. So all tools have the potential to ruin the whole spark plug. Which to me means, never use any of the tools, and eyeball it and just make gap as small as possible and never put anything in between the center piece and top piece.
It's called a grounding strap and you're using the coin wrong.
Video is informative, but that’s actually not how you use the “round coin, necklace spark plug gap tool” you stick the thru the hole and only apply pressure to the ground electrode.
I have a DCT veloster. I just bought NGK iridium plugs. It won’t matter right if I’ll do the same gap as what you did on the hks plugs?
Your plugs could possibly foul if you are running the factory tune.
Why not just use the wire tool to not only open the gap but change your pressure direction to close it back instead of using the other tools or tapping?
My thought is that doing what is stated above might be in danger of touching the electrode. Going away is safer. I took auto tech and our teacher used the tapping method as well. I can't imagine tapping the spark plug lightly like this video could cause harm. You are talking very minimal movements.
I typically used the tool to bend the anode (being referred to in the video as the ground strap) toward the cathode (referred to as the electrode) to close the gap a bit. Tapping is fine, but it's usually dropping the spark plug on all of that plentiful concrete that's eager to catch it for you that will kill a plug. ;-) In reality, if you simply open the plug gap and use one of these much, much nicer tools to gently close it down to spec, you'll be better off.
BOSCH Iridiums come with a warning - DO NOT GAP.
Not mine
Me also i buy bosh iridiums comes with warning do not gap because already gapped from the factory
Question. On the 1.6 in the Elantra sport do those plugs need antiseize
Tony Lester we don’t use antiseeze on any of these Hyundai’s
@@KDMTUNERS copy that. Thanks man.
i was told the iridium is so thin that touching the electrode will wipe it off.
If a gapping coin breaks Your plugs then Youre buying the wrong plugs.
I thought to were supposed to pry straight up with the small hole and not gap it with a lateral slide
Dude is Anus…. But I bet his car 🚗 idles smooth as hell 😂
Never tap the ground strap
The circular tool is only a gage! Not a tool to adjust the gap! Wire gage is not recommended. you can damage the iridium tip by dragging the gage thru the gap.
👍🎣⛵💯
Purpose of the torque gapper is you put the feeler gauge in and close it snug and your plug is gapped!
He says in the video not to do that because it puts pressure on the electrode.
Why are people gapping iridium plugs?
You never addressed increasing the gap...
Your bad lighting, or the lack of light in the dark shadowy areas, ruined this video, as what you were doing in the dark areas couldn't be seen. A lot of guess work had to be used. Next time light-up the "shadowy" areas. That said, video was informative.
Get rid of the fuken annoying music Mo Fomm.
Since this is a how to video, I think it would be great to tell us what to look for when you are measuring the gap. Saying that's good while sticking your feeler gauge in doesn't tell us anything! How about saying that it should be a tight fit, loose fit, or maybe feeling just a bit of drag. Not a good explanation of how to...
instablaster
Slight drag. If you have to force it in, it's too narrow.
@@worshipwhilewewait Thanks but already googled it since the video was no help...
@@pdog2448 More research helps us DIYers anyway...don't you think he did a good job to get us started & thinking about checking the gaps? I never thought to check them with the tool until now. This guy meant well...I like that he introduced the tool AND demonstrated with it.
Correct “feel” for the feeler gauge - is called “magnetic drag”- as you pull the feeler gauge thru it should feel about same as dragging a magnet across a smooth steel surface. 😊😊😊👍👍👍