I know this is an old post but....I have recently bought an antique spinning wheel much like this one in design, a little older I think, it came with no bobbin so I have had to make the one I already had fit the wheel, I knew nothing about spinning wheels having been doing my spinning on drop spindles for a while now, I didn't know if I had a double or single drive wheel, it was a matter of elimination, there was no brake on the flyer, no scotch tension either so after two weeks of trying this and that, I finally figured out it was a double drive wheel, I have watched many videos on these types of wheels and I must say this video explains a lot and very clearly. Thanks to you, I now have a fully functioning wheel, I do admire your consistency and skill using this, I have only had mine a couple of weeks and I am getting there, although keeping the rhythm of the wheel going takes practice. Thank you for sharing this very well put together instructional video.
So helpful. An amazing craftsman, Bill, just rebuilt a beautifully functional double-drive Saxony wheel from the mid 1800’s for me. I am thrilled to be learning on such a gorgeous piece of restored history!
Im glad it was helpful. I've had to make other adjustments to my wheel since making this video. I may need to do a follow up video on this one. I do love using my wheel. I still waffle between this one and my Ashford DD wheel. I love them both. The Ashford holds more thread/yarn on each bobbin than this wheel. I am a thin thread spinner.
Exactly what I wanted to see, you taking the time to go into details, on how to set the wheel. Thank you. I have a K. Symphony and Minstrel and all sorts of spindles. Each require their own maintenance, but for this I am.still learning
Spin on a double drive and ply on a scotch tension wheel. My Haldane Orkney double drive wheel has become my favorite for thinner yarn of worsted, semi-worsted and woolen spun. Wind your yarn around a reel for drying. This is called Blocking and it makes all the difference in plied wool yarn.
I have a n espinner and I'm very glad you told us, the yarn doesnt go thru .the silvr loop on the flyer. Made all the difference in my spinning ha ha ha.
You're welcome. Im glad to know it helped. If you have other questions about how to adjust and use the double drives my direct email can be found at my FB page under the about section. fb.me/naturesyarn
I thank you so very much for your help. I purchased a double drive w. VanEaton wheel and had no clue how to get it threaded. I will be a faithful watcher for my future trouble shooting.
Thank you for the in depth explanation. I was gifted a country craftsman double drive wheel a year ago and just getting brave enough to dive in. Really appreciate your video.
Sometimes the drive band is correct but not always so its always good to check. I put on my drive band again today and had it twisted on the whorl. I picked up both and swapped places and all is now good again. Happy spinning. :)
Thanks for your video I recently bought wa double drive and I'm not much of a spinner, so I'm finding a challenge? Hopefully your info about tension will be a great help., also the drafting demo wi l l help too. I'm having problems Getting my spinning thru the orfice it twists up too soon. And it doesn't feed into it.
Cheryl, the tension just needs to be enough to pull the thread wrapped on your bobbin so it will pull easily but have a very slight tension. In the video I was using a wool drive band but don't use wool. It stretches and will quickly break if you do. I use linen thread that I make myself and it holds up real well. It also allows some slippage so you can get a good light tension for take up control. As for drafting, you need to not allow the twist to get into the fiber. If it does just stop, back twist with your fingers to ease the twist and allow you to pull some fibers out then allow a little more twist. Go slow and don't work with two thick of fiber. The backtest with the fingers was my breakthrough in drafting and I don't try to grip it too darn tight. My original goal was to spin super thin for thread to go onto a loom and my antique sock knitting machine. So don't let your fiber be too think because when you ply your thread it still needs to easily pass through the orifice of the wheel. I have other videos that may help.
I can't believe I, I just picked up a this exact wheel. It needs some tlc. It's dated 1977, that's all I know about it. Any more info would be so appreciated!
Quite a rare one indeed. Now I know about 3 of them. I had to modify the end of the flyer as the end kept popping out of the leather bearing. I filed a deeper notch then I put in a new leather bushing. I drilled a hole just a tiny bit larger in diameter and the width of the groove I filed into was a perfect with to the leather bushing. I cut a slot from the top to the new hole and it just popped right in without the need to move the upright on the mother of all. I had new bobbins made so I have more than one. I also had a couple new whorls made so I could spin flax better without too much twist. It is a good wheel. It is my first wheel I purchased for myself. In my about page you will find the email you can use to contact me about the wheel and to send pics of the wheel. I can help better if I can see the in detail. Just remember to lubricate all the moving parts. I use clear stain free sewing machine oil that you can get off of Amazon.
I'm having a hard time trying to get the bobbin to catch my fiber. I'm new at this and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? People tell me my bobbin is to big for my spinner and I don't know where to get one that will work with my spinner. Could you please help me if possible.
So first off you can send an email. My email can be found in the about section of this youtube channel and you can also find me at fb.me/naturesyarn which is my FB page. I will need photos of what you have to better help but off the top of my head from what you wrote Im guessing you need to properly attach your bobbin leader. You do need a good thin leader line to attach to the bobbin. This may be your issue. If not then I need photos of how you have your wheel setup. I’m happy to help but you need to send info. If I can’t I can direct you to someone who might or go find the answer for you. th-cam.com/video/4a-nDJugsVk/w-d-xo.html
I can’t find the tension on my older wheel. I’m not sure what make it is. But it’s made in Canada. Can you help please. Right now I got the drive bands ok but no take up.
Would need to see a pic of the old wheel. If its an older Saxony style wheel the tensioner should be a screw at the end of the wheel to move the Mother of All forward or back which changes tension. The flyer whorl needs to be larger than the bobbin whorl. Im assuming a Double Drive wheel. If you have an Ashford Traditional the tensioner is the platform the Mother of All sits on and hinges away with a screw to tension the belt. But a picture would be helpful. Or a link to a picture that looks like your wheel. I’ll check it out and try to help get you up and running
If you look in my about section you will find my email address. You can send pics to my email and I’ll get back with you but identify who you are and that we are working on a problem you mentioned in this video. That way I won’t ignore it.
thanks so much!! I got my first wheel last year, an antique double drive castle that i now have figured out well. Just got another antique saxony also double drive. My brother and I, trying again and again to figure out how the hell to go clockwise with the x on top and drive band keeps slipping out of place. my castle doesnt care about which direction its going Lol and it was like the first thing you said. Hey, have any idea why i can't get a gap in the x when its on the bottom? Pretty sure ive tried switching whichband is on top and bottom but im gonna try again. Makes my drive band last like ten minutes driving me crazy!
I don't have any trouble with the drive bands rubbing at the cross. What are you using for a drive band? I use my own home spun 2 ply linen thread as my drive band. My drive band is rather skinny. Could be you have too thick of drive band. The cross will move from top to bottom depending upon which way you spin naturally.
What I have been able to observe over the years is that a wheel that is out of alignment with the whorls can cause it to jump off the wheel. A fuzzy drive band that snags upon itself will cause the band to jump off the wheel and a big fat knot will cause the opposing side to catch and jump the band off as it comes to the big knot. This is why you tie your drive band together or use very skinny knots. I typically use my own home made linen drive bands and because linen is fuzzy by nature it will easily snag upon itself at the cross point and cause it to jump off the wheel. My fix is to wax my drive band real well to remove any fuzziness and the knots I use are small so they don't readily catch at the cross point causing the band to jump. My drive bands are rather skinny. If your band is thick you should tie your ends together so you don't have the knot issue and wax your band well. It will help it live longer and remove any fuzziness. Adjust your tension accordingly. Not too tight or loose but sometimes you need real light tension so be sure your wheel is in proper alignment.
I set up my spinning wheel like you have and my band constantly falls off. Even after tightening it. What is possibly something that I may be missing? Help!
I had to make some extra adjustments to my wheel so I could successfully run my wheel backwards for plying. Now it runs very nicely for plying. I have a new idea to increase the diameter of the whorl a bit without even changing the whorl. Video on that coming soon.
This has no specific brand. This one was built by a small company in Italy in 1968. It is a typical design but with the makers input. It is similar to many old victorian wheels but newer and nicer in my opinion. I really like this wheel and have never seen one exactly like it. I have new reproduced bobbins coming as this one only had one when I purchased it. The people whom I purchased it from had used it as living room art and I was the very first one to spin any yarn on the wheel. It sat unused for many many years. It was liked but was put up for sale. I snagged it.
Interesting. It looks exactly like my wheel. Mine is from 1977, was built by a man named Jensen Almaas in Enderby, BC, Canada. Same MOA, bobbin, and even little caps on the drive wheel supports
@@oxybikechic Do you have pictures you could send of your wheel? I was told mine was built in Italy. If mine matches yours then maybe my information is wrong. lumiecraft at g mail . com
Dudes please help, i just got a mega old upright spinning wheel as a gift and im struggling. Its a double drive, and the issue is, no matter how strong the tension is, the bobbin refuses to spin. It spins a teeeeeny tiny bit when the tension is so strong, its impossible to spin the wheel by the treadle. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? ._.
Tension needs to be light. Typically the super old wheels have gunk on the bobbin shaft of the flyer and has gunk built up inside the bobbin shaft hole. You will need to clean off the shaft to dry metal then use some sort of stick with sand paper to slip in the hole of the bobbin and sand out the gunk. Then it will likely spin like a top for you. I had the problem with a pretty old wheel I picked up and got running again. If you only clean the shaft it may not work so you need to clean both the shaft and bobbin shaft hole. Give it a spin. I can be found at fb.me/naturesyarn. You can ask questions there. What FB Flax or Spinning Pages to you belong to? If we can meet on one of those pages you can post pictures of your wheel and I can give a better assessment. You can do some short video too which would help assess the issues. Glad to help.
@@abittwisted thank you so much for your answer! First, i wanna make a correction, the bobbin spins perfectly, but it doesnt wind. The whole thing is surprisingly new-looking and clean, i still went over it and cleaned it anyway, inside and out all over, and thats the state im experiencing the issue in. A thing i noticed however, is the difference between the size of the flyer wheel and the bobbin wheel is tiiiiny. Like, three millimetres max. So the two spin at the same speed. Now its pretty obvious to me that thats the problem. Originally, i thought maybe this isnt the original bobbin. But after a lot of searching, i found a model exactly like mine, and it has the same bobbin, wheels same size. So i think im going to acquire a bobbin with a smaller wheel. But im still curious why its like that. Here are the wheels: imgur.com/a/139DsZV
@@0yodelingpickle526 Ok, Good pic. The bobbin and whorl are just fine. These old wheels are supposed to be that way. One is just slightly larger than the other. This is what is used for winding the thread on the bobbin. These wheels are designed to spin thin thread for weaving and not bulky art yarn. Your drive band should be one huge band doubled up on itself. And of a material that will slip if needed. I use a large linen thread I made myself for my drive bands. If you put a long leader on your bobbin you can practice spinning that leader onto your bobbin. Id make it pretty long so you have something to easily work with. Thin as well. Do not put much tension on the drive band and slowly adjust until it takes up the thread. Don’t let the leader get too twisted or it will bind up and not feed through the orifice or make it around the hooks. The wheel will easily over twist quickly if you are not careful. Keep practicing until you can get that leader to wind onto the bobbin. Start so loose that the drive bands just slip under super light pressure when you turn the wheel. You can even use your hand to slowly spin the wheel so you don’t over twist your practice thread. More images of the flyer setup to spin would be helpful. Yes, the bobbin looks to be in excellent shape. Pictures help a great deal.
@@abittwisted hello, very sorry for the wait, i was busy with other things these past days. i tried some different sized whorls and now things are good.
Thanks for showing how to set the drive band for plying. 😊
I know this is an old post but....I have recently bought an antique spinning wheel much like this one in design, a little older I think, it came with no bobbin so I have had to make the one I already had fit the wheel, I knew nothing about spinning wheels having been doing my spinning on drop spindles for a while now, I didn't know if I had a double or single drive wheel, it was a matter of elimination, there was no brake on the flyer, no scotch tension either so after two weeks of trying this and that, I finally figured out it was a double drive wheel, I have watched many videos on these types of wheels and I must say this video explains a lot and very clearly. Thanks to you, I now have a fully functioning wheel, I do admire your consistency and skill using this, I have only had mine a couple of weeks and I am getting there, although keeping the rhythm of the wheel going takes practice. Thank you for sharing this very well put together instructional video.
Thank you.
So helpful. An amazing craftsman, Bill, just rebuilt a beautifully functional double-drive Saxony wheel from the mid 1800’s for me. I am thrilled to be learning on such a gorgeous piece of restored history!
Im glad it was helpful. I've had to make other adjustments to my wheel since making this video. I may need to do a follow up video on this one. I do love using my wheel. I still waffle between this one and my Ashford DD wheel. I love them both. The Ashford holds more thread/yarn on each bobbin than this wheel. I am a thin thread spinner.
Exactly what I wanted to see, you taking the time to go into details, on how to set the wheel. Thank you.
I have a K. Symphony and Minstrel and all sorts of spindles. Each require their own maintenance, but for this I am.still learning
You are welcome to ask questions if you have any. I have learned a bunch since this video was produced.
Love to see a good man spin!!!
Spin on a double drive and ply on a scotch tension wheel. My Haldane Orkney double drive wheel has become my favorite for thinner yarn of worsted, semi-worsted and woolen spun. Wind your yarn around a reel for drying. This is called Blocking and it makes all the difference in plied wool yarn.
I have a n espinner and I'm very glad you told us, the yarn doesnt go thru .the silvr loop on the flyer. Made all the difference in my spinning ha ha ha.
Very helpful - thanks. Will make using double drive on my wheel much easier to understand.
Thank you for the good explanation it helped me a lot now I can enjoy my spinning wheel. Greetings from the Netherlands. 👋🏻🍀
Thank you. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
Wow! Awesome information! This will help me a ton with my Rick Reeves double drive reel. Thanks so much for sharing!
You're welcome. Im glad to know it helped. If you have other questions about how to adjust and use the double drives my direct email can be found at my FB page under the about section. fb.me/naturesyarn
GREAT video! I've been searching for such a long time to find this information! Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot, just the information I needed! Greetings from Norway 🇳🇴
I've just got a double drive wheel and this is very helpful, thankyou.
I thank you so very much for your help. I purchased a double drive w. VanEaton wheel and had no clue how to get it threaded. I will be a faithful watcher for my future trouble shooting.
Thank you for the in depth explanation. I was gifted a country craftsman double drive wheel a year ago and just getting brave enough to dive in. Really appreciate your video.
Thank you so much i got a saxony used wheel recently your video is very helpful, Thank you
Your welcome. Glad it helped.
If you have any troubles let me know and I can do a video on that
I have a Saxony also
Excellent. Seems to me you need to be patient to adjust this wheel for the type of yarn you want
Yes, patience will help. Once you have the techniques down setting up will be quick as you know what you need.
Thank you! This cleared things up for me!
Great video and explanations.
Thanks for the direction change fast drive band change tip ( and others)!!!
Sometimes the drive band is correct but not always so its always good to check. I put on my drive band again today and had it twisted on the whorl. I picked up both and swapped places and all is now good again. Happy spinning. :)
Lots of great info & tips, thank you! Looking forward to trying them. I’ve already started oiling where you suggested and the difference is amazing!
Thank you this was really helpful.
Sooo needed this video! Thank you!!!
Glad it helped. Thanks. :)
Thanks for your video I recently bought wa double drive and I'm not much of a spinner, so I'm finding a challenge? Hopefully your info about tension will be a great help., also the drafting demo wi l l help too. I'm having problems
Getting my spinning thru the orfice it twists up too soon. And it doesn't feed into it.
Cheryl, the tension just needs to be enough to pull the thread wrapped on your bobbin so it will pull easily but have a very slight tension. In the video I was using a wool drive band but don't use wool. It stretches and will quickly break if you do. I use linen thread that I make myself and it holds up real well. It also allows some slippage so you can get a good light tension for take up control. As for drafting, you need to not allow the twist to get into the fiber. If it does just stop, back twist with your fingers to ease the twist and allow you to pull some fibers out then allow a little more twist. Go slow and don't work with two thick of fiber. The backtest with the fingers was my breakthrough in drafting and I don't try to grip it too darn tight. My original goal was to spin super thin for thread to go onto a loom and my antique sock knitting machine. So don't let your fiber be too think because when you ply your thread it still needs to easily pass through the orifice of the wheel. I have other videos that may help.
@@abittwisted thankyou!that should be very helpful.
I can't believe I, I just picked up a this exact wheel. It needs some tlc. It's dated 1977, that's all I know about it. Any more info would be so appreciated!
Quite a rare one indeed. Now I know about 3 of them. I had to modify the end of the flyer as the end kept popping out of the leather bearing. I filed a deeper notch then I put in a new leather bushing. I drilled a hole just a tiny bit larger in diameter and the width of the groove I filed into was a perfect with to the leather bushing. I cut a slot from the top to the new hole and it just popped right in without the need to move the upright on the mother of all. I had new bobbins made so I have more than one. I also had a couple new whorls made so I could spin flax better without too much twist. It is a good wheel. It is my first wheel I purchased for myself. In my about page you will find the email you can use to contact me about the wheel and to send pics of the wheel. I can help better if I can see the in detail. Just remember to lubricate all the moving parts. I use clear stain free sewing machine oil that you can get off of Amazon.
I'm having a hard time trying to get the bobbin to catch my fiber. I'm new at this and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong? People tell me my bobbin is to big for my spinner and I don't know where to get one that will work with my spinner. Could you please help me if possible.
So first off you can send an email. My email can be found in the about section of this youtube channel and you can also find me at fb.me/naturesyarn which is my FB page. I will need photos of what you have to better help but off the top of my head from what you wrote Im guessing you need to properly attach your bobbin leader. You do need a good thin leader line to attach to the bobbin. This may be your issue. If not then I need photos of how you have your wheel setup. I’m happy to help but you need to send info. If I can’t I can direct you to someone who might or go find the answer for you. th-cam.com/video/4a-nDJugsVk/w-d-xo.html
I can’t find the tension on my older wheel. I’m not sure what make it is. But it’s made in Canada. Can you help please. Right now I got the drive bands ok but no take up.
Would need to see a pic of the old wheel. If its an older Saxony style wheel the tensioner should be a screw at the end of the wheel to move the Mother of All forward or back which changes tension. The flyer whorl needs to be larger than the bobbin whorl. Im assuming a Double Drive wheel. If you have an Ashford Traditional the tensioner is the platform the Mother of All sits on and hinges away with a screw to tension the belt. But a picture would be helpful. Or a link to a picture that looks like your wheel. I’ll check it out and try to help get you up and running
If you look in my about section you will find my email address. You can send pics to my email and I’ll get back with you but identify who you are and that we are working on a problem you mentioned in this video. That way I won’t ignore it.
thanks so much!! I got my first wheel last year, an antique double drive castle that i now have figured out well. Just got another antique saxony also double drive. My brother and I, trying again and again to figure out how the hell to go clockwise with the x on top and drive band keeps slipping out of place. my castle doesnt care about which direction its going Lol and it was like the first thing you said. Hey, have any idea why i can't get a gap in the x when its on the bottom? Pretty sure ive tried switching whichband is on top and bottom but im gonna try again. Makes my drive band last like ten minutes driving me crazy!
I don't have any trouble with the drive bands rubbing at the cross. What are you using for a drive band? I use my own home spun 2 ply linen thread as my drive band. My drive band is rather skinny. Could be you have too thick of drive band. The cross will move from top to bottom depending upon which way you spin naturally.
Do you have a place I could go have a look at your setup like on FB or some photo album or TH-cam channel?
What causes the string to fly off wheel
What I have been able to observe over the years is that a wheel that is out of alignment with the whorls can cause it to jump off the wheel. A fuzzy drive band that snags upon itself will cause the band to jump off the wheel and a big fat knot will cause the opposing side to catch and jump the band off as it comes to the big knot. This is why you tie your drive band together or use very skinny knots. I typically use my own home made linen drive bands and because linen is fuzzy by nature it will easily snag upon itself at the cross point and cause it to jump off the wheel. My fix is to wax my drive band real well to remove any fuzziness and the knots I use are small so they don't readily catch at the cross point causing the band to jump. My drive bands are rather skinny. If your band is thick you should tie your ends together so you don't have the knot issue and wax your band well. It will help it live longer and remove any fuzziness. Adjust your tension accordingly. Not too tight or loose but sometimes you need real light tension so be sure your wheel is in proper alignment.
I set up my spinning wheel like you have and my band constantly falls off. Even after tightening it. What is possibly something that I may be missing? Help!
Any luck getting the drive band to say put? Any place I could check out photos or video of your setup? Video of setup would be helpful.
I had to make some extra adjustments to my wheel so I could successfully run my wheel backwards for plying. Now it runs very nicely for plying. I have a new idea to increase the diameter of the whorl a bit without even changing the whorl. Video on that coming soon.
Did you finally get the wheel to run better? What was your solution for your wheel if you got yours running?
what is the best type of material to use for the drive band?
I have read that cotton is best. I have used hemp and I now have my two ply linen thread I made on this wheel. It is working great for me.
The wool drive band I did not like because it stretched out too much. The linen thread is working great.
String. After 5 years, I still have the original band on my wheel.
What brand of wheel is this? I recently acquired one just like it
This has no specific brand. This one was built by a small company in Italy in 1968. It is a typical design but with the makers input. It is similar to many old victorian wheels but newer and nicer in my opinion. I really like this wheel and have never seen one exactly like it. I have new reproduced bobbins coming as this one only had one when I purchased it. The people whom I purchased it from had used it as living room art and I was the very first one to spin any yarn on the wheel. It sat unused for many many years. It was liked but was put up for sale. I snagged it.
Interesting. It looks exactly like my wheel. Mine is from 1977, was built by a man named Jensen Almaas in Enderby, BC, Canada. Same MOA, bobbin, and even little caps on the drive wheel supports
@@oxybikechic Do you have pictures you could send of your wheel? I was told mine was built in Italy. If mine matches yours then maybe my information is wrong. lumiecraft at g mail . com
@@oxybikechic😮 mine is 1977, I'm in the Cariboo!!! Exactly the same in design
Dudes please help, i just got a mega old upright spinning wheel as a gift and im struggling. Its a double drive, and the issue is, no matter how strong the tension is, the bobbin refuses to spin. It spins a teeeeeny tiny bit when the tension is so strong, its impossible to spin the wheel by the treadle. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? ._.
Tension needs to be light. Typically the super old wheels have gunk on the bobbin shaft of the flyer and has gunk built up inside the bobbin shaft hole. You will need to clean off the shaft to dry metal then use some sort of stick with sand paper to slip in the hole of the bobbin and sand out the gunk. Then it will likely spin like a top for you. I had the problem with a pretty old wheel I picked up and got running again. If you only clean the shaft it may not work so you need to clean both the shaft and bobbin shaft hole. Give it a spin. I can be found at fb.me/naturesyarn. You can ask questions there. What FB Flax or Spinning Pages to you belong to? If we can meet on one of those pages you can post pictures of your wheel and I can give a better assessment. You can do some short video too which would help assess the issues. Glad to help.
@@abittwisted thank you so much for your answer!
First, i wanna make a correction, the bobbin spins perfectly, but it doesnt wind.
The whole thing is surprisingly new-looking and clean, i still went over it and cleaned it anyway, inside and out all over, and thats the state im experiencing the issue in.
A thing i noticed however, is the difference between the size of the flyer wheel and the bobbin wheel is tiiiiny. Like, three millimetres max. So the two spin at the same speed. Now its pretty obvious to me that thats the problem.
Originally, i thought maybe this isnt the original bobbin. But after a lot of searching, i found a model exactly like mine, and it has the same bobbin, wheels same size.
So i think im going to acquire a bobbin with a smaller wheel. But im still curious why its like that.
Here are the wheels:
imgur.com/a/139DsZV
@@0yodelingpickle526 Ok, Good pic. The bobbin and whorl are just fine. These old wheels are supposed to be that way. One is just slightly larger than the other. This is what is used for winding the thread on the bobbin. These wheels are designed to spin thin thread for weaving and not bulky art yarn. Your drive band should be one huge band doubled up on itself. And of a material that will slip if needed. I use a large linen thread I made myself for my drive bands. If you put a long leader on your bobbin you can practice spinning that leader onto your bobbin. Id make it pretty long so you have something to easily work with. Thin as well. Do not put much tension on the drive band and slowly adjust until it takes up the thread. Don’t let the leader get too twisted or it will bind up and not feed through the orifice or make it around the hooks. The wheel will easily over twist quickly if you are not careful. Keep practicing until you can get that leader to wind onto the bobbin. Start so loose that the drive bands just slip under super light pressure when you turn the wheel. You can even use your hand to slowly spin the wheel so you don’t over twist your practice thread. More images of the flyer setup to spin would be helpful. Yes, the bobbin looks to be in excellent shape. Pictures help a great deal.
@@0yodelingpickle526 any update
@@abittwisted hello, very sorry for the wait, i was busy with other things these past days.
i tried some different sized whorls and now things are good.