Thanks for taking the time to test-run the unit. Well done. Very thorough and informative. I had just ordered one of these units for general home workshop use on DIY projects and the occasional battery charging. The bonus footage at the end of your video was interesting and concerning. I may add to the heat sink by extending an aluminium plate between the inductor and the capacitors as a primary heat shield if there's enough room. Hardwiring an additional fan running constantly might also increase the overall life span of the PSU. Look forward to more reviews.
Part number for the Wanptek PSU in the description is not quite right. Interestingly they have various models in the range with different voltage / current capabilities.
Couldn't help but notice that on the back of the manual under the qr code they had a different spelling for their own name, no p. Even they aren't sure that p should be in there. A heat shield inserted between that inductor and the capacitors above woul be a worthy upgrade, something to give some isolation in the thermal zones. Bit of bare FR4 straight off from the top heatsink fin would do it. Id also put that fan in pull rather than push.
With the top cover off the airflow is not that strong as it should be. It should go from the front, cool the inductor and the heat sink. But still the heat source near electrolytic caps is designed to fail after probably a year of intense work.
Saludos maestro una buena explicación y como menciono el caballero anterior seria posible poner aluminio o cinta térmica a los capacitores y al que esta debajo también uno pequeño y al chip de su costado por encima al menos proteger del calor para realizar trabajos por horas sin miedo a que dure poco ...
would have any suggestions/recommendations for getting a mazda bose amp repaired like in your videos from a few years back. cheapest repair service i've found in christchurch was $300.
I would be inclined to wire up a silent 120mm fan inside, that runs around 9v to keep the noise down and constantly cool the components, Interestingly you can pick this PS up for $ 111 delivered now
Hi, I have a problem with this PSU. The OCP function doesn't work properly. If I try to charge any kind of battery and set the maximum current to 1.2A, 1.0A, etc., the OCP triggers. So, this function must always be turned off. Why is this happening, and how can I solve it
This is normal. Charging batteries is not what ocp is for. You need to set the max voltage for the battery type then adjust the current to what is acceptable for that battery. A discharged battery will almost always want to pull more current than you set the limit to so ocp will always trip.
Thanks for taking the time to test-run the unit. Well done. Very thorough and informative. I had just ordered one of these units for general home workshop use on DIY projects and the occasional battery charging. The bonus footage at the end of your video was interesting and concerning. I may add to the heat sink by extending an aluminium plate between the inductor and the capacitors as a primary heat shield if there's enough room. Hardwiring an additional fan running constantly might also increase the overall life span of the PSU. Look forward to more reviews.
Glad you found it useful, good idea with the heat shield.
The "MOV" getting hot in bonus footage is likely to be a current inrush limiter (NTC).
True that
Part number for the Wanptek PSU in the description is not quite right. Interestingly they have various models in the range with different voltage / current capabilities.
Good spotting, edited.
Great review! Did you ever tried the USB-C ?
Excellent review and teardown....many thanks.
Couldn't help but notice that on the back of the manual under the qr code they had a different spelling for their own name, no p. Even they aren't sure that p should be in there. A heat shield inserted between that inductor and the capacitors above woul be a worthy upgrade, something to give some isolation in the thermal zones. Bit of bare FR4 straight off from the top heatsink fin would do it. Id also put that fan in pull rather than push.
With the top cover off the airflow is not that strong as it should be. It should go from the front, cool the inductor and the heat sink.
But still the heat source near electrolytic caps is designed to fail after probably a year of intense work.
I have a 30V5A difference name version WPS305H but the electronic is same i think software regulates 5 or 10amp
Is the screen protector removal thing some ASMR thing?
Saludos maestro una buena explicación y como menciono el caballero anterior seria posible poner aluminio o cinta térmica a los capacitores y al que esta debajo también uno pequeño y al chip de su costado por encima al menos proteger del calor para realizar trabajos por horas sin miedo a que dure poco ...
would have any suggestions/recommendations for getting a mazda bose amp repaired like in your videos from a few years back. cheapest repair service i've found in christchurch was $300.
Might be cheaper to buy one from a wreck...
I would be inclined to wire up a silent 120mm fan inside, that runs around 9v to keep the noise down and constantly cool the components, Interestingly you can pick this PS up for $ 111 delivered now
Good idea. Always some sale going on.
@@JonnyFix I'm thinking of getting this one, now they are $83 with free postage from an aussie seller (I'm in WA)
Nicley detailed and executed. Thank you.
Hi, I have a problem with this PSU. The OCP function doesn't work properly. If I try to charge any kind of battery and set the maximum current to 1.2A, 1.0A, etc., the OCP triggers. So, this function must always be turned off. Why is this happening, and how can I solve it
This is normal. Charging batteries is not what ocp is for. You need to set the max voltage for the battery type then adjust the current to what is acceptable for that battery. A discharged battery will almost always want to pull more current than you set the limit to so ocp will always trip.
@@JonnyFix Ok .Thanks.
How do you pronounce pneumatic?
With the lips, the teeth, tip of the tongue
how to turn on USB C, thanks
It is always on
DIOS los bendiga
the "A" and "E" are silent.
I think I sound like a klingon trying to say it that way 🤣
You forgot test the USB
I chose not to. I didn't have a sacrificial device at the time. It does work
lol @3:10 good choice.
I am a Wantek power supply manufacturer. If you need anything, please feel free to contact me
Thankyou!
My question is about the EPS3210 model - if I use low voltage and current, will the fan not start and get irritated? For example, 5V 1A or 12V 1.5A
That's still 5 watts and 18 watts, things will get warm and fan will still cycle.
What is the maximum current on the USB? Does the display show the current flowing through the USB?
@@gaborm4767 We don't have this model, but we already have a new one that can meet your needs