I wrecked the WanpTek 60V/20A adjustable power supply 💥 ... and repaired it again WITH THIS!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 เม.ย. 2023
- It was totally my own fault that the #Wanptek adjustable power supply got so sick! I connected it the wrong way around to my battery and turned it on. It warned me with big sparks but I decided to ignore these warning und it was too late. The power supply was dead, still showed some numbers on the display but neither voltage nor current could be adjusted any more. Some common sense and a quick sniffing test got me on the right track and I could order some spare parts. Luckily it was the two #diodes which died and nothing more.
With the right soldering iron, I could quickly #repair the device. Let me know in the comment section how you solder these larger MOSFETS if not with such a huge device.
WanpTek Adjustable Power Supplies 0V-220V /5A-100A DC
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Power supplies generally can't handle reverse voltage, whereas battery chargers are designed to handle reverse voltage. For a power supply, though, it isn't just reverse voltage that is a problem. It is also a problem if you connect the power supply to the battery properly but the power supply is turned off... that's actually ALSO reverse voltage on the power supply's output stage. Depending on the type of output stage, the reverse voltage a power supply can handle ranges from 0.7V to around 7V before the output stage implodes. And that's it.
The most common way a battery enthusiast destroys a power supply is by trying to charge a battery with it. Lots of people do it, because they think it works fine "because they've done it many times before", but it is a recipe for disaster.
There are only two correct ways to connect a power supply to a battery:
(1) You connect the output of the power supply to the battery via a diode. I usually use a Schottky diode (about a 0.34V drop). This protects the power supply from reverse voltage, but your amps will be limited to whatever the diode can dissipate which is typically only around 5A in free air (for a big diode)... 20A rated diodes need heat sinks to actually run 20A through them.
(2) You do not connect your regular power supply to a battery. Instead, you use a proper battery charger.
Battery chargers... equipment explicitly designed to charge batteries, are a lot more robust and can deal with these situations without damage. Battery chargers won't blow up if the AC side is disconnected, won't blow up if the battery voltage is higher than the charger's output voltage, and generally won't blow up even if you connect the battery to it backwards. Regular power supplies don't have these features.
p.s. yes, you can gang multiple diodes in parallel and increase your output amps, but de-rate the per-diode amperage to 3 or 4A per diode. So, e.g. 4 x Schottky diodes in parallel can handle 12-16A. For bench power supplies. Battery chargers already have special output stages (usually back-to-back BJFETs or something similar) and don't need additional diodes.
Look for 20SQ060 on Amazon. 20A 60V schottky blocking diode. That works well for 48V applications. For 24V or lower applications you can get away with 20SQ050's (lower voltage drop but only tolerates 50V reverse). But insofar as having a pile of generic Schottky's, the 050's or 060's are as generic as they come. Make sure the reverse voltage specification for the diode is high enough for your application, Schottky diodes have lower reverse voltage tolerances than normal diodes.
(voltage flavors range from 30V to 100V reverse voltage tolerance. Lower reverse tolerances also have lower forward drops. If you are not sure, get the 060's or 080's).
-Matt
Sure, you a right in theory, in practice no one cares and will do it anyway, because it is just too practical and cheap to do so.
Incase you fry something it is still cheaper and easier to repair the power supply than have a dedicated charger, miss use is the normal usecase for every kind of equipment, you need to know about there limitations and what could possible go wrong.
@@jonasstahl9826 Well, two problems. (1) Most people aren't going to repair their power supplies. And (2) A fire is a possible outcome, particularly if the power supply is unattended (as it often is) while charging the battery.
Diodes are cheap. Use'm.
But as I said... lots of DIYers think its ok, and it generally takes the school of hard knocks, or a fire to change their minds. Kinda like .... everyone remember the DIY Lichtenberg/fractal wood burner fad that happened on social media 1-2 years ago? Where people were trying to DIY high voltage by ripping out microwave transformers? It took a few dozen deaths and 8 months of professionals getting dissed on social media for warning about the dangers before people got the picture.
This isn't quite that bad, but its bad enough to warrant a warning. I don't connect bench power supplies to big batteries without a few diodes inbetween, ever. Its just too dangerous. Just replacing some obviously burned-out parts as Andy did is not necessarily a perfect fix either... those electrolytics probably have burn holes between the layers internally, for example.
Well i appreciate your educational post. Thanks Matt.
I had come across this but forgotten, and was just about to dip my toe into this area by purchasing a power supply, and may well have ended up connecting a battery causing damage or fire.
Just watched a few of your vids. Interesting, useful and entertaining... I'm learning new stuff with each video.
Definitely worth a sub 👍
Here are the 10 most important things to learn from Andy on this video:
1. Connecting power supplies the wrong way around can cause damage, as seen when the creator accidentally connected the positive and negative terminals incorrectly, resulting in sparks and ultimately damaging the power supply.
2. Pre-charging the capacitors inside a power supply can help avoid sparking when connecting a battery to it, as it ensures that the voltages on both sides are equal.
3. If a power supply appears to be non-functional, it's essential to inspect the components for damage, such as burn marks or a burnt smell, and test the components with a multimeter to diagnose the issue.
4. In this case, the problem was found to be two Ultra Fast Recovery Diodes (MUR30120PT), which are essential components in rectifying and regulating the output voltage.
5. Diodes are one-way valves for electric current, allowing it to flow in one direction while blocking it in the other direction.
6. When replacing diodes or other components, it's important to ensure that they are properly aligned on the PCB and have good contact with the heatsink for optimal heat dissipation.
7. Using the right tools, such as a 150-watt soldering iron with a wide chisel, can make it easier to solder large components like diodes or MOSFETs to a PCB.
8. After repairing a power supply, it's important to test its functionality with a multimeter and by connecting it to a load, such as light bulbs, to ensure that voltage and current outputs are as expected.
9. Thermal paste should be applied between the components and the heatsink to ensure good thermal contact and efficient heat dissipation.
10. When working with electronics, it's important to be cautious, stay safe, and double-check connections to avoid damage to components or devices.
11. When servicing electronic equipment never connect it directly to mains. Always connect it to an isolating transformer to protect yourself.
@@Juergen_Miessmer 12 have protection in the power supply leads as well. Youd do it for an MPPT charge controller why not a 20A power supply?
I would add:
Do not buy or use a power supply/charger that is missing basic protection features such as reverse polarity, short-circuit etc.
I blew-up my LiFePO4 12v 50 Amps charger by accidentally connecting in reverse. A spectacular bang, piece of the huge crocodile clamps was missing (fused onto the bold of the LiFePO4 cell) and the charger was broken.
I took it apart to attempt to repair but it is so cramped, it is very hard to reach the components.
Do not buy a power supply where it is too easy to reverse polarity (such as crocodile clamps) but rather with connectors, cable-looms or clear (and beefy) connection-posts..
As we all will make a mistake eventually.
@@grahampahl7100 A fuse on the Battery side - yes of course.
These small wires will light up immediatly when shorted.
U have to buy supply with 10 y. warranty and U have no problems, because parts are well designed and properly cooled.
You are one of the funniest guys I've seen on here. Keep up the great work. New subscriber 😄
Thanks a lot, Wes. Welcome to the channel!
And Yes Andy, As I Was Watchin Your Repair Job, I Was Thinkin You Should Of Put The Screws In To Make Sure They Were Aliened Properly During The Solderin... 🤔😜🤣🤣😁😎
Now we know for sure at minute 16:30 you have another lover!
Shhhhhhhh. 🔐
HA. HA Husk også lillemor🥰
You haven't lived until you've hooked your battery up reverse polarity!
I cannot recommend it! 😂
Well done Andy. You were very gentle and patient. But if you had been a little less gentle with that BFSI (Big Freaking Soldering Iron), as you inserted the new diode, you could have delaminated the solder pads from the PCB while pushing the leads through. Some advice from someone who has been doing electronics repair for 40 years: next time use a solder sucker and the small iron to remove the solder from the through-holes one ay a time. Or, if you don't want to buy a solder sucker, use a wooden toothpick. Also, the solder joints you made at the end, on top of the PCB (component side) may be "cold" joints that can fracture with a little vibration. The solder has to flow freely across and around the pins until it wicks around the pins to form an alloy, which requires the pins to be heated to the melting temperature of the solder. What I see here are what we call "tack joints" intended for only temporary connections. We old techs say: "solder is not a glue."
Thanks for your tips!
Thats how I was trained to solder! good to know the practise id still being applied!!!!
@@showme360 There are probably other methods these days for such a task but for a three-pin diode, it was al right.
Andy, I love your sense of humor. Only us techie guys can relate!!😂😂😂
Another great episode of Electro UN-Boom!
Glad it works again! It's may big love.
The sparks don't lie. I was top balancing groups of cells. Moved from charging 4 in series at 14.40V to charging just the bottom 3. Got my order mixed up. Instead of setting the voltage first, then moving the connection, I went to move it first, SPARK, "Hmmm... check the output is on, it is.... hmmm" Sometimes the first one does, tried again, Sparks. Nope. Something is wrong. Stop. Check voltages. AHHH!!! 14.40V across 3 cells. Thankfully I did not do as Andy did and "plough on" anyway.
Sparks are a wonderful thing 🎇 They are here to help you find you mistake immediately!
Luck of the Irish 🙂
Thumbs up 👍 Doctor the operation was successful 😊
16:30 👍
it is completely normal to make your power supply eijei
🥰
Glad you're saying this. I felt a bit weird...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thats normal!
Love that SMD iron… 😂
Solders your PCB all at once!
For all the "wise" people in the comments: The Seplos BMS he uses is connected MINUS and then PLUS. But everything else needs to be connected PLUS then MINUS. I just grilled mine too because of the same mistake.
Can I blame you ? 🤪 I now have the Wanptek to play with ( UK ) 👍👌
They also have a 3kw version ( now? ) incidentally I hated the beeps when adjusting volt/amps. You can disable. Hold ‘on’ for 5secs then sequentially press volt , until 4-1 shows , turn until 4-0, press volt to save👍
Oh, wow, thanks for the pro-tip. How did you find out? So4-1 makes it quieter?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I’m nosey 😊. 4-1 beep on , set 4-0 beep off
@@ladams5356Thank you.
Thanks for this video have a nice day 2
Electronics repair as well! I love the Off Grid Garage 📺 Show!
Thank you, David!
Thanx
Thanks for sharing your mistake and the repair. Glad it all worked out.
The saying of oops comes to mind...😅 Good thing you know what the heck you are doing to fix it at least!👍
With a bit of luck, yes...
Piece of cake. Good job, Andy.
Exactly, nothing to worry about 😁
Nice work, Andy. You can cut the pins off and tin them too if you like. Beautiful day down here today.
Thanks Andy
I have that power supply and like it a lot. I'll have to make sure I dont hook it up backwards
Yeah, don't!
Heya, yeah that's a way to do it, a little big for my nerves oke they are big diode but still
Andy, you do know that you shouldn't let the smoke out! Impossible to get it back in!
It is back in! It works! No smoke any more hopefully.
Gone love it
Rd tech has a 24a power supply they have a special battery terminal and if you conect the +and- the wrong way it won’t charge
That is helpful!
Who taught you how to solder? 🙂You should remove the solder from the through holes first. Then you could test fit the diodes for proper mounting alignment. Invest in some solder wick and a good solder sucker, then you wouldn't need a plumbers soldering iron. Heating up and pushing through the diodes is a good way to destroy the traces. But you got it working and have spare parts for the next time you hook it up backwards 🙂
Thanks, yeah, I have one of these desoldering pumps but it does not work well unless the solder is really hot. Some wick is probably better...
I had bought the same one you have from zooming into another of your videos. so at least I know now if I fry the output what I have to do, and which of my friends has some extra output diodes. 😁
@16:30
i feel you 😍
I love my wanptek 6020 for my ebike
I've seen a YT vid of someone soldering 48swg wire to a pcb using a soldering iron like that.
A master in soldering 😁
Those joins are better than factory.. well done
Alex would agree !!! 😆
#bombenfest
Good morning from Fiji!
Oha, good morning to Fiji 👋 Wow, I always wanted to visit...
Like# 402, damn steak lunch gets in the way!
Oh, but great news, I found one of the 2 panels I needed to add! I grabbed 3 x 540watt panels to make it 8, I’ll configure them into a 4S2P! Still trying to locate a 445 bifacial Canadian Solar for the second string! If you remember, I am bumping into my 250v limit per string and this will drop me from 250 down to 200v!
So currently Taj-Ma-Haul is at 6.5kWatt/hours solar capacity. I’m 2/3 the way to the planned 8.1kWatt/hrs
Taj-Ma-Haul is my 20’ Toy Hauler Luxury home conversion!
Yes, I have a 15V 100A one which I use to top balance my cells. Very fast and very good. I bought it in one of the regular AE sales, and it arrived in 5 days all the way from China. I like that they do prepay custom duties and clearance for the UK.
Oh, wow, I was looking at the 60V/50A one but could not justify the price. I have to be patient while charging...
I added a power diode into my leads, with a switch across it. You have the switch open while connecting, then you make sure current flows. Once current is flowing, you close the switch and your leads are in default, and the voltage drop from the diode is gone. I've not blown my power supply since
Ah, great tip. A bit of an extra step but I like it!
Everything ok but there are cheap but functional heated, by thumb springloaded, desoldering irons available, they work great...just in case somebody is scared of this glowing truncheon ; )...and by the way, i've learned to solder AFTER cutting, so the end is tinned too and no electrogalvanic corrosion can happen ; )
After doing the same thing to my Wanptek I put a fuse on my positive lead connection on the back connector to prevent it from happening again. Lot easier to replace a fuse.
Fuses are not fast enough to protect electronics.
Will the fuse not even blow under normal operation?
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaA fuse should not blow when things are normal. They blow when the thin wire in the fuse gets too hot and melts. This demands over current and time. Current multiplyed by current and again multiplyed by the resistance to give the energy to melt the silver wire. They can often survive a small over current for a long time. They may protect against melted cables and fires. I do recomment fuses between battery banks and what is connected to them in case something like an inverter has failed.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia So far mine has been ok. I haven't hooked it up back words or over loaded it though. Can't hurt and doesn't cost much for a little more protection.
@@leonhardtkristensen4093 I'll put this upgrade project on my list of videos. Thanks for your insight and suggestion.
That big soldering iron should be just the thing for surface mount components. Could do at least ten at once.
Yes when you don't want to use that peace of equipment any more. It may well take components, tracks and every thing.
❤
Hmm all i can say is you forgot to calibrate some spats before attempting you work lol I blew my 30v 10A power supply with voltage feedback from the solar damn not enough spat calibration 😆😭
No SPAT while I'm working! At least I try not to 😁
Those are common parts in switching supplies, I used them on the power supply for my Riden. Also,I should mention that particular product design does not like reverse power, in other words make sure something you connect to does not have higher voltage. (Reverse current flow) Yes I have blown the 15v 40 amp USA version. I have a couple of the wanptek supplies, a lot of bang for the buck. Batteries tend to not care about ripple, but they love that current.
Use one extra of the diodes on the output terminals, solder center to positive other pins to negative post. More better better protection. 😉
Hello! Please be so kind and advice me if it is ok to use this method for other power supply. Thanks for your support
@@margasor yes can use on other power supplies. What it does is protects the supply if a reverse voltage is connected on the output of the supply. The diodes anode goes to negative and the cathode goes to positive. A fuse inline would blow if a reverse voltage is applied and thus protecting the power supply.
@@davestech6357 I will do so, is it a specific power diode to use?! Supose to be rapid diodes. Thank again, I appreciate your support 🙏
Good job 👍 I make the same with tv power supply i messure it whats wrong and find most of the errors on the AC site.This big soldering iron is funny because i take a desolderung pump.Das richtige für Freitag Abend Tschüßi👋
I have a de-soldering pump as well but it does not work well. I cannot get the solder to be hot enough so it sucks it in.
Mrs. Battman must envy the TLC the Wanptek 60V/20A gets 😂 Let the sparks 💥 flow into the new🔋project!
did you know that if an 100 pount trailer falls over a wanptek which is 80% loaded and warm the tiny thing turns to over current protection ... i didnt know it had such working... spared it to see what happent and it was just a mode you keep pushing the current scroll and it switches it off.!!!1 yup the last models 60/5 ali sells!!!! scared me a lot.. my sweet first ever adjustable seems totaly fine!!!!
Having seen your unconventional soldering technique I'm curious: How would you solder 0.6" wide DIP-40 packages?
When I got my RDTech 50V 20A power supply, with a mean well 48V 10A DC brick, people said I should test the short circuit protection on it. So I did. Set to 20A too. What I didn't take into account was this test can be performed at 1V or 5V, I had the PSU set to 35V. I removed the plastic screws off the terminals and grabbed them with the pliers. LOL
Sparks? F....k! Lightening and smoke, huge crack and scared the living daylights out of me. Thought I'd surely toasted it. Not. Small arc burn on the pliers and post though. I braved trying again and holding and it was still alive and was only willing to put about 0.1V out at 20A through the pliers. It still works to this day and was the PSU I was using below.
Note. Not all PSUs have a diode in series with the output and powering them up via their outputs can be a YMMV thing. Some PSUs have an anti back feed diode that will blow a fuse, others have an antiback feed diode that just melts.
Hahaha, funny to read. Thanks for sharing. That was like 700W! Wow. I can imagine the bang and spark.
thats the whole point of current limit
also now u know i=v/r
16:30 does your wife know what you are doing? LMAO
I close the garage doors when I film myself 😄
Du bist echt schmerzfrei... mit dem Dachrinnenlötkolben 😀
Ich hätte wahrscheinlich mit der - ein tolles Wort - ENTLÖTSAUPUMPE und Enlötlitze rumgehampelt. Aber wenn man dem good old Weller ne fette Lötspitze verpasst, kann er mit seinen 50W am Magnetostaten auch einiges anrichten 🙂
Mach bitte weiter so, deine Videos heb ich mir meistens bis zum Schluss (des Tages) auf. Nachtisch! :)
This is the english channel mate.
you could put a high current diode on the positive terminal to stop reverse polarity from happening again
You mean inline? What about the voltage drop?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia they will be that to add on when setting the voltage but it would save the device
Excellent work! When I was in the Air Force, I took a NASA soldering course for repairing airborne avionics. Pretty sure that soldering iron would not have been authorized :)
Hahaha, probably not authorized, no 😂
I kept mashing my screen because I thought that fly was on my phone lol. That's for this, I just checked my old power supply and it's same component that blew. I did the same and never threw it out. We'll see Monday if it can be fixed when parts get here
Good luck with the repair.
But now know what to replace if i do
Just don't break it!!!
I would not recoment the high power/heat soldering iron. The PCB tracks might easily lift from the PCB. I recomment cleaning the holes and then insert the component. A short touch might be ok but a fev secs more??????
Yeah, if you get it too hot, it will break your tracks. sucking up al old solder is definitely the better way. But what a boring video, right?😁
If you find a temperature controlled 150W iron I'll be all ears :)
A dimmer can make that magic happen for you.
Face it Andy... you've slept with a power supply under your pillow. I have too.
Thank You Andy, I have exactly the same power supply! for the moment no problem but I keep the links of this video, very carefully, because there is a good chance that this type of problem will happen to me, with these Chinese devices!! but hey in principle we always manage to fix them...😁
Just don't connect it the wrong way! All good then...
Of course better, don't make a mistake when connecting it😁👍
Is this charger worth buying bcoz i hve ordered one today for top balancing my lifepo4 cells
We all can relate , to some extent. Let's just say shit happens, it is how you deal with it that determines your success.
And that is how you really learns. They can teach you for ever in class and you never learn but your mistakes teaches you in a second.
Yes, I will definitely pay attention to the correct way of connecting it.
I always tripple check the ZKE tester because there will be no repair for these expensive devices.
Maybe to add an external fast acting fuse to PSU's output? Like cylindrical fuse with DIN rail fuseholder in external small box?
Fuses - fast acting or not - are usually being protected by the electronics. You will have a good fuse afterwards but blown electronics. No fuse is fast enought exept if it is an electronic fuse.
Would a fuse not also trigger at normal operation?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Fuses need time to heat up and blow (or trip if a breaker) and are good for disconnecting faulty electronics like an inverter or a charge cnotroller from a big battery (or generator) to avoid futher damage like a fire but not for fast protection as electronics need. They are like a backstop when everything else has failed. They will probably protect cables from melting. They are after all just a thin cable and obviously give a voltage drop at high currents. At normal operation they will probably blow at about 1.2 to 1.5 times their rated current but if just above their rated current it can take minutes or more before they blow. For a split second they will tolerate much higher current which is why they can't protect electronics. It is all a matter of where it heats up the fastest.
PIns should be as short as possible, because inductance of long tracks will be high.U have to measure with oscilloscope, if desogner made good job when he designed PCB.
I'm looking at this power supply,has it been good? Does it output the full 60v 20a for 1,200 watts? I'm looking for a decent power supply to power my pinecil v2 soldering iron. Charge some small batteries and to have something adjustable.
Very overkill for those purposes. A 30v/10A would be more than enough for half the price.
Andy you could have used soldier sucker to suck the solder from the holes and once they are open. You can easily insert diodes, transisters or any thing in the hole directly without using a huge canon like soldering gun 😂😂
I tried my solder sucker thingy but the solder is not hot enough and it suck. I mean it didn't suck, so it sucks!
Funny guy...;-)
I have just bought one of these power supplies and I can't seem to find out how to change it from constant current to current voltage to allow the current to reduce for top balancing Any advice much appreciated
It does it automatically. Set it to 3.45V for a single cell and watch. Voltage will rise until it reaches the 3.45V and the current will then slowly go down until the cell is full absorbed. There are many videos on this channel where I show how to charge these cells.
@OffGridGarageAustralia thanks and it did as you said after a few days the cell when they arrived were all 3.25v x16 280ah, I set that charger to 3.65v it started charging at 21amps but the voltage to 3.47 for a week or so but the came up slowly it stopped at 3.65 and the cells were all at 3.62v so I guess it's close enough for a top balance
[Off topic] Is it a reasonable idea for a Lifepo4 battery in a camper van with solar panels to change the BMS settings so that ovp is at around e.g. 35% state of charge and ovp recovery is at e.g. 25% of charge when the battery is not used for a long time? Keeping the battery at nearly 100% for a long time is not recommended, is it?
They are usually only about half charged when transported/delivered. In contrast to Lead Asid batteries they don't need to be fully charged in storage. I believe damage comes from any change in charge so i believe in storage it would be best to disconnect them and then just give them some charge everry 3 to 6 months but Iam not a battery expert.
If you don't have any load connected, charge it to 70% and leave it disconnected (even the BMS if possible). This will last for more than a year without any issues...
Hi Andy, ich hab der gleiche Spannungs versorgung. (traue mich die 21Ampère aber nicht). Du hast 10 stück gekauft und nur 2 verbraucht. Ich hätte sicherheitshalbe 2 stück da. Was war noch mal das produkt nummer? Direkt bei Ali oder wo war das noch mal? Kannst mir auch 2 stück schicken wenn es nicht zu teuer ist. Meine Adresse hast du.
Thanks for the Extreme good learning video.
Fun video. I would have done it a little differently. But to each his own. At 3:30 Well, how does a transformer help with rectified current?
PWM is the magic here...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Transforming wavy DC into anti-noise?
Hi Andy.. would you recommend that make of clamp meter? Great video as usual
I bought same as Andys, works perfect. Only anoying thing is the short backlight time.
@@TheCampersSweden Thanks mate and Andy said about the short back light time as well
There are many Firmware hacks for this clamp meter as well if you google it. Maybe there is one which keeps the light on for longer...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thanks Andy
Looks like that time those diodes did act fast, but unfortunately didn't recover, It happens to us all eventually.
Hahaha, yeah, a bit of irony here with these diodes😚
Well done, those are some huge diodes. My powersupply repair didnt work out so well, just another case of unscheduled rapid disassembly (switching IC blew up). I got 9 left so my ali-express order is going to pay off as I blow up some more before figuring out whats up. Or i might just throw in the towel because i think some surface mount resitors are toast which is more then i wanted to get into.. but maybe with that huge Iron... i'll give it a shot! Diodesgonewild could solder smd's with that iron i bet.
The huge soldering iron may take care of all your SMD components at once.
I usually don't have much luck repairing such devices but I had luck with these power supplies. Also repaired the small one with 5A successfully a few times.
The good thing is the Wanptek support via AliExpress chat. They are really helping and sent me a photo for the smaller PS with components to check.
I bought this power supply based on your experience with it and tonight I fired it up for the first time. My cells arrived today and I started with a parallel top balance, but that didn't work out well. I reconfigured the pack to 16 series and I configured the power supply to 58,4V, 20A, but when I connect the battery pack, it will only push 5A instead of the rated 20A. It is running for 15 minutes now and the voltage on the display is dropping instead of going up. I am working on my first pack ever, so please be gentle to me ;)
I hope you have a BMS connected as well during this top balancing? How much is the voltage dropping? Maybe you forgot to enable the supply same as Andy in the video :)?
@@matija3791 I’m monitoring the individual cell voltages continuously and I first initiated output on the wanptek. Strange: when I lower the current from 20A to 10A, the measured current on the charging cable is rising from 5A to 10A. 🤨🤨🤨
No that's fine, it's unable to feed the 20A because the batteries are full.
@@Gorgelodokus which voltage do you measure as minimum on the lowest cell and which oh the highest cell?
@@matija3791 all 16 between 3,30 and 3,38 V so I would think they aren’t in the higher area where they couldn’t take it any more, right?
Why didn't you clean it after soldering?
For...? Your OCD? 😉
The problem with getting components from Aliexpress, is that it's a hit and miss if your supplied with fake or the real deal.
Are there fake diodes out there? What's fake with them, not working at all or not meeting specs?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Andy, yes there are fake diodes, floating around the Chinese market. Usually they are rebranded and out of spec.
@@ThaVoodoo1 Didn't know,this is a think as these semiconductors are so cheap to manufacture and there would be no money to be made in faking them...
The real content is only for those sticking to the end :P :P
Andy , in the old days we would have called these diodes crowbar protection diodes. They protect your power supply in the event of reverse connections.
Not so shure about that. I think they do the rectifying after a high frequency transformation. I think this is a switch mode PS.
Sorry but soldering works a bit different. ;-) You had could use an desoldering pump with underpressure technic. Price for a good one is 25 Euro.
I've got one!
Cool Andy, Did you enjoy a late night Spat after that? And how about adding a reverse voltage protection, maybe a couple of high current blocking diodes across the output and an inline fast acting fuse in-line with the output?
I had one before I started😁 Keeps my hand calm
The diode would change the voltage on the output though. And a fuse blows both ways so won't help much either, I guess...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I was thinking with the fuse being inline, the diodes might absorb enough reverse voltage until the fuse blows to prevent damage to the rectifier diodes
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think what he means is that the diodes should be across the output + on diode to + and - to -. . That may blow a fuse fast enough to protect the internal parts. That would not change any voltage on the output and reverse current would be neglegeble.
@@leonhardtkristensen4093 Ah, right, I understand now!
@@jackoneil3933 Yeah, could be, I mean it sparked twice and I had the PS running for a few seconds before it died.
Spielst du ein Blasinstrument?
Piccolo Flöte.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Aha daher die Spannung in deiner Oberlippe! Schönes Instrument!
This iron should be well for plumming. ;--)
And would you ask your plummer to fix electronics?
It seems to be good for a lot of things
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Would you have shown us if you had lifted and dammaged the tracks? I am just warning against using such an iron as I have had bad experiences with even much smaller irons an I have had close to 70 years experience with electronics and at least 50 with pcb's and that is professional. I am a professional fixer. That is the way I have made my living starting as a Radio and TV mechanic mooving into big computers (the ones taking up entire floors in big houses),. I have also got an electronic engineering education but I still appreciate your video's as I learn new things all the time. I am not a know it all person. I am a hving seen and experienced a lot person.
@@leonhardtkristensen4093 Yeah, why not? I have shown many mistakes I made here on the channel. It's not all positive. Even if the tracks lift off, you can still solder them again or using a piece of wire to connect to the next point.
I appreciate all your comments and sharing your knowledge here as well. Thank you.
🐸🐸🐸
while many would say the cost of parts/time waiting/time repairing and a 50/50 shot at it working again isnt worth the effort given the relatively low cost of these power supplies......
not me tho..... i know exactly where youre coming from andy! well done!
The PS cost $200 plus $150 shipping, so I was very keen to repair it and not give up on it!
there should be a slow blow 25A fuse behind the output terminals, then these same diodes would cause the fuse to blow if connected to anything in reverse with more than 25A capability and over 2-3V voltage, or there could be a beefy 85A >100V diode Vishay VS85HFL series ( any will do, the voltage ratings go from 100V to 1100V) (such as in reverse to the output capacitors to blow the fuse without causing large (over 150A) peak current to the ultrafast diodes.
Can you really call yourself a DIY or Off-Grid battery guy if you haven't let the smoke out of at least one power supply? :)
I have destroyed three 😁 One is still not well... waiting for more parts.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia - That's how you know you're an expert!
200€ aluexpress
Plus shipping. Yeah, not cheap, but really good.
Second 😢
Nobody said First! 🥈
@@OffGridGarageAustralia 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for the medal! Just remember to not reverse the polarity, unlike Star Trek , this makes magic smoke escape! ❤️🤣
Never buy this power supply as the design is unsafe and non compliant
Any more info or just a random comment to spread FUD?
perfect but you gotta wipe that flux off.... its killin
me
Don't look at it! It's just an optical thing, right? It does not eat into the PCB over time?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I lovte that you engage even the worst of us. I seriously hope your channel blows up.
@@QuantumMarmalade Hope its just the channel and nothing else 😁
@@OffGridGarageAustralia 😆... in my 'professional opinion' I think you have one of the least likely to catch fire off grid systems I've seen, unless its from constant tinkering which increases the probability of the inevitable...... nevermind 😜
@@OffGridGarageAustralia you know, I would like to see you try to start a fire intentionally. that would be interesting. 👀
Never buy this power supply as the design is unsafe and non compliant
Can you recommend a safe and compliant one?
Crickets... 🦗🦗🦗
Well, have to search