Hah! Rubber bands to hold the parallels against the vice jaws. I'm a 40 year retired toolmaker and that never occurred to me. Fortunately I still use a small mill so will be borrowing that trick going forward. I also get through a BIG bag of rubber bands of that sort of size about one bag per year. (A tidy shop is a happy shop). I love this channel!
I am so glad that I decided to browse your old videos. I have wanted to make some collet racks for my shop and I could not remember who I had seen make holders with a taper to save my life. Thank you for sharing so many tips on how to do things that aren't available any where else.
First time posting Rob, I am impressed. I have never seen that style of boring head. Thank you for the tutorial. You are a real professional Rob. Great videos. Thank you.
Just want to add to hundreds of other voices here and say you're work ethic, critical eye, awareness, and inquisitiveness are simply inspiring. I'm grateful to have the chance to learn from you through your various social media channels. Its so so exciting to watch the control you have over your shop environment after a lifetime of learning how to anticipate needs, identify your habits, and leave room for expansion. It's obvious you are constantly thinking about your craft, and its a joy to watch you work. Thank you for everything!
"Machinists do Woodworking" has entertainment value all on its own! Great demonstration of using the taper boring head though - I've never run one, so it was a great primer for me. Thanks Robin!
I am designing my own 40-taper spindle from scratch with no experience, and I am absolutely in love with your videos and the valuable information you provide. Thank you so much!
Love that boring head, took me a minute to work my head around how it works, and then when you first mentioned the fine adjust in Z my mind kinda blew a bit, very well engineered tool super cool.
Thank you very much or introducing me to the Tree taper boring tool. Your video was very thoughtful and full of useful information. Like OX Tools I consider you a founding professor for all 'virtual' apprentices who (like me) are fortunate enough to be able to learn from knowledgeable and generous people like yourself. Pete
blue it in and lap it. lolol you're a really good machinist. I was just kidding about blueing in. it's a wall mount toolholder rack...... you can work to within an eighth of an inch an still be functional for its purpose. i really like your videos, found you because of Pete aka tubalcain. you have very similar precision as me. it's like exercising precision while being precise with your machining it's a bug. like a disease. very clean work. your custom calipers were the only indication I needed to see you're an elite machinist. truly prestigious. from one to another, so long for now!
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing... Great project! Fantastic work, and I learned something new. Only a machinist goes trough this kind of effort for a tool holder! Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy watching your videos.
So glad you decided to mount the racks to a board and then put the board on the wall. I've always found that to be so simple and flexible (though some might not like the aesthetics)!! "Trusty old HP" has some of the best buttons ever put on a calculator hehe
that was ridiculously cool. puzzling out how the Tree works in my head will consume some free cycles - really really cool -and- a great result! thanks for this...
I came over from Tom Lipton's site to watch the level build. That lead to the vise jaws. Now I am a subscriber! It's a joy to watch someone who works like you do and hear why you are making some of the choices you do. I'm looking forward to the champfermeister video. Thanks!
Nicely designed and executed! I used to think I got a nice finish on tool bits, after I stop crying I'll rethink the error of my ways! LOL Great boring tool, I've never seen one in operation, thanks for taking the time to share.
I like it! Another neat trick (especially for making collet racks for ER collets, where the taper is the same but there are lots of different sizes) is to make a tapered D-bit for the smallest size, but make the shank a standard size which you can plug into a simple (ie conventional) boring head. Then, as long as you tighten the grub screw with the flat radial to the cutting axis, you can dial up any bore size you want at that same taper. It might struggle in steel, depending on the slenderness of the D bit in relation to bore size, but in plastic or aluminium it's golden. In MDF I'm guessing it would need a bit of hand-stoned relief to cut, at least for small bores.
Great, bloody awesome in fact, a top job and probably the best tool storage system I have seen. Now I want to see you make a similar thing for MT drill storage. I love your Tree taper bore, makes life so easy. many thanks
Hey Robin, I just watched this video for the second time. I really enjoyed it (again), thanks. Great to see another HP48 fan! I'm looking forward to your video on the Chamfer Master!
Thanks Ted, I painted the tapered bores when I painted the whole thing and then I rubbed talcum powder into the tapered bores so the shanks didn't stick. Thanks for commenting and watching! ATB, Robin
When I saw you holding the vacuum hose and running the mill I had to laugh. After seeing the video I'm positive you can make an attachment to hold the hose lol.
i really enjoy your videos!!! I admire your attention to detail and how precise you are in your work... I also admire your knowledge of the machining trade and how metal reacts to different situations thank you and im going to continue to learn from you
That's a nice taper attachment, perfect for the tool room. I would probably make a few more tool holders for it, maybe with a triangle insert pocket integrated into it.
nice video, and that tip with the tool grind is a good one, by the way that form looks a lot like what the carbide inserts in the insert tools look like, so a well headed lesson, obviously if those tools are made that way it's safer to cut with this type of tool insert with this profile.
First time I saw one of your videos. Of course I subscribed right away. Great videos and subjects. Thank You for great work for we newbes. Bill from Seattle
One thing about MDF is it is highly abrasive on cutting tips. Vacuum is a great idea to keep the nasty dust under control. BTW, cool accessory that Tree unit.
I may be wrong but I think you might be confusing particle board with MDF. Particle board eats even coated carbide end mills for lunch but I find MDF not much different than Pine. The Tree unit is very handy for the very rare cases I need it.
No, the glues are renowned for take the edge off tools. Carbide of course always holds up better. A quick google for MDF toll blunt will tell the story, and of course personal experience.
now that's a pretty spiffy setup. my schmid boring head does something like that for planing a circular surface. rather than grabbing hold of the ring it has a rod that attaches to the advancement ring
+ROBRENZ really enjoying the videos, thanks very much. You keep everything in your shots so clean. I aspire to that every day. Your videos have a lot of action sped up so it's interesting. I am now in a shop that does a lot of very small work. I have only been watching your videos for a couple days and have learned a lot.
+ROBRENZ been watching you all day today and have learned a lot. I just moved to a shop that does a lot of very small work. You keep the tools in your shots so extremely clean, I aspire to that every day. I like your film style, lots of sped up action with you commenting over.
+oxtoolco I made some plating tank support frames out of 4" square pulltruded fiberglass tubing many years ago. Some pieces were about 10' long and I needed to be squared on the ends. The tapped holes are 1/2-13 to match my stud set and I used 2 studs and a strap clamp over the tubing to hold it tight to the vise base when the 10 feet was hanging out. Also a very cool use of them here th-cam.com/video/wwgO6Lg4RZM/w-d-xo.htmlm50s All the best, Robin
Dear Robin, probably watched this video 5 times, tool envy for sure. Would you be able to do a TH-cam short on your ceramic lap setup? Or quickly describe the (or let me know if this has been answered and I'll search) ceramic lap and what you use for lapping compound? As always thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi there, did you just bore taper holes, just because you had a taper boring tool ? What was wrong with large parallel holes, would have been quicker and achieve the same wall mounted rack. Did you also consider putting 3 or 4 felt strips down the taper holes to stop the tools from touching the wood all the way down and risking a build up of damp / rust if no air can get buy. Oily felts would help the problem, especially if occasionally you rotated the tools you did not use very often.
The MDF will definitely hold up better with the taper than hitting just a edge top and bottom. Also a good chance of busting out the bottom lip when you stick a heavy holder in and catch it with the end of the taper. Also a good chance to show people something they may not even know existed. The taper bores are painted and them talcum powder was rubbed in to have a non stick surface. I don't want oil on the tapers in general and I have had no issues since the video with rust. Thanks for the comments. ATB, Robin
Really great video. I found it funny that you were sometimes fighting your machinist instincts/standards. One minute you were saying this is only an MDF toolholder, so no need for high precision, the next you are working to an very high standard. I hope you keep making videos. Is the chamfer meister a shop-built tool? --Ed
Yeah its a struggle to not want everything within tenths. I will be back at videos in Jan 2017. The Chamfer meister is shop built and there will be a video on it in the near future. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Volcker1929 I'm a hot fodder and metalworking guy at heart and a very amateur woodworker but I've never seen a .030 adjustment boring a hole in wood. I've been watching Robins videos for quite awhile, I'm sure the level of quality he demands of himself crosses over into everything he builds, no matter how mundane.
Good Demo of the Taper Boring Head. but probably over Kill for us mere mortals making a tool holder rack out of scrap. Unless your location is Directly on a Fault line and there is a risk of the Holders Vibrating out. Maybe us Average Joe's would just use a Hole Saw and Let the Flange of the Holder rest on the rack. I made a bunch of racks out of Scrap Pallet slats. two Vertical end Pieces as Legs Tall enough so the Stud doesn't hit the table. and a Series of Hole Saw cut holes large enough for the Gauge line diameter to fit through. So the Flange of the holder is supporting the mass of the tool. I think If I wall mounted them like you did. I Cut the angle wedges so that the Knob just rests against the backer board. The Flange supports the Mass of the tool, and the Knob rests against the back. but then, that wouldn't have worked to Demo how the Taper Boring head Works. and I think, that was the Whole Purpose of your Video. What can I make to Show how this Taper Boring head works. I'll make super precision tool holder racks. Great Videos by the way.. I look forward to what you have to Share.
I thoroughly admire your attention to detail on even the most basic of so projects. Did I spy a Kuru Toga pencil when you were making the hole locations? I love the concept of them, but not completely sold on the execution.
I like it a bit better after cleaning some of the grease out of it. It gives the mechanism a lighter feel, but unfortunately also makes it feel just a bit sloppy. I think to get it right it needs to be made much more precisely, to get a light enough feel without too much slop. Of course at that point it ain't gonna be a $6 pencil... Hey, you need another project? ;)
On my SIP Jig borer 6A Hydroptic when setting the amount of cut after my first cut and measuring with a ball I would back away from said side of face drop the tool into the bore with z axis back away from the side the amount i wanted to cut eg, .040" come back to my origin and it would be within .0005 Nice tool.
I'm a subscriber and I enjoyed the video but feel that MDF is not a good choice for holding any sort of tool shank. As a few other commenters have noted, MDF will likely absorb and transfer moisture at some point to the tool holder surface. While MDF has a fair amount of resin binder, it will absorb moisture, and paint does only a little to slow that process. Metal or plastic in contact with the tool holders makes more sense to me for the application.
Thanks for the reply. I was speaking more in terms of what would be ideal, not just what may suffice. Glad it is working well for you all the same, and i enjoyed learning about the tapering head.
eBay has a few of these (used) taper boring heads for sale....from $500 to $1,000. Far more than a regular boring head. Needless to say, I won't be getting one. Not that I really need it....I've been a machinist for 35 years and I've never encountered a job requiring tapered holes other than those done on a lathe. Anyway, and as you said, Robrenz, the TREE boring head is a well designed cutting tool.
Robin, awesome job and awesome tool. Is the adjustment of the tool bit arm just by a metal rule or am I just being stupid + the knurled component is for gripping as the head rotates? I am trying to get how this really well engineered head works. Great finished job and safe, protected tools in the shop, well done young man. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thanks Joe, The radial adjustment of the tool is just where you decide to tighten the swiveling tool bar. There is no fine adjust but with a taper you can adjust size by just lowering the quill or raising the knee. You just need to do the trig on what diameter change you will get per increment of Z movement. When you hold the knurled collar it drives the angular slide thru a gear train. Thanks for commenting and watching!Robin
+ROBRENZ Robin, many thanks for the explanation, what an amazing tool, I have never seen any of the other guys using anything like this head. A great result, even on crappy MDF, what a result!!
Great, another tool I didn't know I need/want. :-) CNC was obviously a huge advancement in machining and it's made a whole lot of products a lot cheaper to produce.But it sure killed off many company's who made some really clever manual machine accessory's. Volstro was another who made a lot of very desirable tooling for Bridgeport sized machines. As usual a very well explained video about how it works and is set up Rob. It might take longer but can the tool slide be retracted just by running the mill in reverse and holding the ring? Didn't think there were many like myself who sometimes use a mill for working wood even though I've never seen any mention of not doing so. The dust and chips are a pain but I can't fault the obtainable accuracy. Fwiw Wagner who are also now out of business made what was called a Saf-T-Planer originally designed for drill press use before the cheap off shore wood planers started being sold. It's basically a 3" diameter 3 tooth face mill for wood that works really well on a mill. Some TH-cam videos around showing some scary use on drill presses.
Your first Paragraph , Are you Blaming Computers ! For those Companies !??and last paragraph , that's not to be confused with the Blade put on Angle Grinders !?? Is it !.
I sure enjoyed learning about the taper boring head, BUT this a 1000% overkill. Two diameters bore would have achieve exactly the same functionality and permit a further tilt as soon as the CAT holder was pulled out a bit.
Hi Robin , doesn't that flickering fluorescent light drive you nuts. It's not doing your video any favours. Back to the show. Thanks Robin, that was most informative. Makes me wonder what sort of a "convoluted mind" came up with a device like that. Must have had some really bad sleep nights thinking it through. Are they still made and where? Regards from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦👍
Interesting ,you used M D F instead of soft metal, some machinists might look askance, wondering about durability of those holders. I find it refreshing to see non metals being used,however those are hydrodynamic, and are subject to shrink and swell.Check for rust often on the least often used tools.
Thanks for your concern. The taper holes were painted along with the whole thing. That has seemed to seal the MDF as I have had no issues in the 18 months of daily use. I think you meant hygroscopic. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If a holder is not often used, the rack could draw away what little lubricant there is and cause rusting. I've saturated wood racks with grease or oil and the rust still creeps in... All metal racks now. Otherwise awesome!
Hi, I just stumbled across your video. Very interesting boring head! May be a silly question as I'm not yet a regular, but what are the cat 40 holders for? I'm thinking a CNC. If you have a CNC why not just bore the taper with the CNC? I've made several of these for my NMTB 30 CNC tool holders. I've made some years ago in Aluminum and they worked great, but about 6 months ago I made some from MDF. My shop is not climate controlled and humidity is high in the summer. I've found the MDF is holding moisture causing my tapers to rust where contact with the MDF. Be sure to coat your tapers with some oil if you live in a humid environment. I'm going to re make mine from a different material. MDF is not great for this.
Hi Roger, yes for a CNC. I know I could spiral path a taper hole with an end mill on the CNC. But I know of no way to single point taper bore on a CNC unless you are talking about the boring mill heads with radial out feed control. I painted the tapered bores of the MDF and have had no rust problems in my air conditioned shop. Thanks for commenting and watching! ATB, Robin
Air conditioned shop is the key! As for boring the taper. I use Fusion 360 , I just drew a circle extruded at the correct taper angle, then did a 2D bore. The bore operation respected the taper in the model. I just used a flat endmill and it came out good enough. A ball endmill would have given a better surface finish.
I hate grammar police but I have to I'm sorry I have to you hit one of my pet peeves it's height not heighth it ends in a tee not an age I am sorry you're a great guy you're a damn genius I love your videos please allow me this LOL I hate grammar police but this is driving me crazy
Machine tools for woodworking and full of wood chips. Never seen that before. I won't even use my good steel drill bits in wood unless they're already dull and I'm desperate. Better make sure you treat that wood with something to prevent it from soaking up moisture if you live in an area with any humidity to speak of. Sitting in those racks if there's moisture in the wood will rust the hell out of your tools. There's a reason most wooden cases for gauges and indicators are oiled wood. That particle board and whatever adhesive its made with could be an issue all by themselves.
I bought one of those 20 years a go on the USA EBAY site, cost me $200 then when the A$ was 1 for 1. BTW, the Tree boring head with taper ability is actually a boring and facing head not just a plain boring head.
Hi mate. You do know that that stuff is made from trees ay. Nicely done, though. How irritatingly simple are those elastic bands to hold those spacers. Bloody infuriating!!!
Hah! Rubber bands to hold the parallels against the vice jaws. I'm a 40 year retired toolmaker and that never occurred to me. Fortunately I still use a small mill so will be borrowing that trick going forward. I also get through a BIG bag of rubber bands of that sort of size about one bag per year. (A tidy shop is a happy shop). I love this channel!
Suitably calibrated rubber bands I hope!
So How Small ! Is your OVERSIZED ! SHED ! THEN !??
That taper blaring head is a testament to the Ingenuity of machinists and tool designers.
And Just MORE !! EXPENSE !! TOO !!
I am so glad that I decided to browse your old videos. I have wanted to make some collet racks for my shop and I could not remember who I had seen make holders with a taper to save my life. Thank you for sharing so many tips on how to do things that aren't available any where else.
I like that everything you do is precise. It makes my OCD not an issue. Great channel.
First time posting Rob, I am impressed.
I have never seen that style of boring head.
Thank you for the tutorial.
You are a real professional Rob.
Great videos.
Thank you.
Just want to add to hundreds of other voices here and say you're work ethic, critical eye, awareness, and inquisitiveness are simply inspiring. I'm grateful to have the chance to learn from you through your various social media channels. Its so so exciting to watch the control you have over your shop environment after a lifetime of learning how to anticipate needs, identify your habits, and leave room for expansion. It's obvious you are constantly thinking about your craft, and its a joy to watch you work. Thank you for everything!
Thanks for the very kind words.
And Obviously ! STEALING ! Ideas Too !.
"Machinists do Woodworking" has entertainment value all on its own! Great demonstration of using the taper boring head though - I've never run one, so it was a great primer for me. Thanks Robin!
Thanks Jason and thanks for watching and commenting!
Better off ! As Firewood !
I am designing my own 40-taper spindle from scratch with no experience, and I am absolutely in love with your videos and the valuable information you provide. Thank you so much!
How goes it?
@@riverstormo8296 ive made the cad files but i think ill just get a spindle and reverse engineer it.
Nadir Khawaja would you be down to share? Also cnc depot makes good spindles, good solid spindle to go from an reasonable price
@@riverstormo8296 Why! do you want to steal Other people's ideas ! ? Then !
Robin, I'm enjoying working my way back through all your projects. Many thanks for choosing so many unique tools and techniques to show us.
Thanks Tom, and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
From your other videos I half expected you to take the mdf over to the surface grinder to clean it up and then lap it to a few millionths 😂
Rubber bands on the parallels! Why haven't I ever seen this before? Been watching videos like these for years...
Brilliant simplicity.
Thanks spaight711, they seem obvious to me! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Love the way this project turned out, and I'm impressed with the Tree tapering boring gear. Thanks for putting this up.
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video, kept my attention all the way through. Didn't know there was a tapered boring head.
Love that boring head, took me a minute to work my head around how it works, and then when you first mentioned the fine adjust in Z my mind kinda blew a bit, very well engineered tool super cool.
Glad you are enjoying them.
Thank you very much or introducing me to the Tree taper boring tool. Your video was very thoughtful and full of useful information. Like OX Tools I consider you a founding professor for all 'virtual' apprentices who (like me) are fortunate enough to be able to learn from knowledgeable and generous people like yourself.
Pete
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting.
Sounds like People like ! Joe Pieman ! / Blondehacks ! /AVE /and Others ! Clearly ! FAILED YOU !! BADLY !
@@davidwillard7334
blue it in and lap it. lolol you're a really good machinist. I was just kidding about blueing in. it's a wall mount toolholder rack...... you can work to within an eighth of an inch an still be functional for its purpose. i really like your videos, found you because of Pete aka tubalcain. you have very similar precision as me. it's like exercising precision while being precise with your machining it's a bug. like a disease. very clean work. your custom calipers were the only indication I needed to see you're an elite machinist. truly prestigious. from one to another, so long for now!
Thanks Billy for the very kind words and thanks for commenting and watching!
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing... Great project! Fantastic work, and I learned something new. Only a machinist goes trough this kind of effort for a tool holder!
Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks Yogi and thanks for commenting and watching!
So glad you decided to mount the racks to a board and then put the board on the wall. I've always found that to be so simple and flexible (though some might not like the aesthetics)!!
"Trusty old HP" has some of the best buttons ever put on a calculator hehe
"had" you mean :(
that was ridiculously cool. puzzling out how the Tree works in my head will consume some free cycles - really really cool -and- a great result! thanks for this...
Thanks and glad you are finding the content useful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
of course, when Robin says "by eye" he means "i'm _only_ going to use a tape measure"
I came over from Tom Lipton's site to watch the level build. That lead to the vise jaws. Now I am a subscriber! It's a joy to watch someone who works like you do and hear why you are making some of the choices you do. I'm looking forward to the champfermeister video. Thanks!
Thanks nothermark and thanks for watching and commenting!
Nicely designed and executed! I used to think I got a nice finish on tool bits, after I stop crying I'll rethink the error of my ways! LOL Great boring tool, I've never seen one in operation, thanks for taking the time to share.
get yourself a low speed ceramic lap and some 3 micron diamond paste. Makes getting a mirror finish on anything quite easy.
No way! I have never seen a taper boring head, thank you for sharing this!
I like it!
Another neat trick (especially for making collet racks for ER collets, where the taper is the same but there are lots of different sizes) is to make a tapered D-bit for the smallest size, but make the shank a standard size which you can plug into a simple (ie conventional) boring head.
Then, as long as you tighten the grub screw with the flat radial to the cutting axis, you can dial up any bore size you want at that same taper.
It might struggle in steel, depending on the slenderness of the D bit in relation to bore size, but in plastic or aluminium it's golden.
In MDF I'm guessing it would need a bit of hand-stoned relief to cut, at least for small bores.
Thanks for the ideas Gottenhimfella and thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't think Your Boring Head ! Would do Anything Less ! Than what the Head Size !.is !
i like your thinking!
i love the tree boring head, what a wonderful attachment!
great job
Thanks m walton and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
I like ur rubber band ide. I always cleaned the paralel block after used. With simple trick u hav, i wont do anymore. Thks rob
Nice craftsmanship and thanks for sharing the unique boring head.
Keep'em coming.
Thanks James and thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow i thought that the boring head that Stefan Gotteswinter showed on his channel was was amazing but this one simply amazes me !
I have the next larger size Wolhaupter head that Stefan showed and they are IMO the finest boring heads ever made.
Great, bloody awesome in fact, a top job and probably the best tool storage system I have seen. Now I want to see you make a similar thing for MT drill storage. I love your Tree taper bore, makes life so easy. many thanks
Hey Robin, I just watched this video for the second time. I really enjoyed it (again), thanks. Great to see another HP48 fan! I'm looking forward to your video on the Chamfer Master!
I have a final mod to do on the chamfer meister before I do the video on it.
Hi Robrenz, Just remember that MDF is hydroscopic coat the inner faces with a suitable material. Nice job. Regards.
Thanks Ted, I painted the tapered bores when I painted the whole thing and then I rubbed talcum powder into the tapered bores so the shanks didn't stick. Thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
I like the idea of rubber bands to hold the parallels. Easy and I have a ton of rubber bands.
Thanks for sharing Robin. I learn so much watching you work. Also lets me realize how little tools I have for my hobby shop, haha.
What Tools are they !? Then !
When I saw you holding the vacuum hose and running the mill I had to laugh. After seeing the video I'm positive you can make an attachment to hold the hose lol.
That is not the 45minute video i want to see. Unless.... He cad3, machine, harden, grind and lap with 3micron diamond slurry the parts.
“Ohohoooo, that’s nice...” Hahhaaha I just felt that tight & feathery snug fit through the screen! :D
i really enjoy your videos!!! I admire your attention to detail and how precise you are in your work... I also admire your knowledge of the machining trade and how metal reacts to different situations
thank you and im going to continue to learn from you
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
It's CLEARLY ! SAD ! THAT YOU HAVE! TO !
I have that same boring head never new what it was used for till now . thanks for the lesson
Great trick with the rubber bands around vice and parallels. Cool!
Wow! That was awesome......first time I have seen this kind of taper boring.
Thanks Dan and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
Didn't know that taper bore existed, very interesting item and a nice job. Nice board, not as crumbling as regular MDF, a good quality top there.
+SeanBZA Thanks Sean, The MDF is very fine grain compared to particle board.
yeah i was convinced i would need a rotary table mounted atop a sine plate to get taper bores
That's a nice taper attachment, perfect for the tool room.
I would probably make a few more tool holders for it, maybe with a triangle insert pocket integrated into it.
Great idea
nice video, and that tip with the tool grind is a good one, by the way that form looks a lot like what the carbide inserts in the insert tools look like, so a well headed lesson, obviously if those tools are made that way it's safer to cut with this type of tool insert with this profile.
First time I saw one of your videos. Of course I subscribed right away. Great videos and subjects. Thank You for great work for we newbes. Bill from Seattle
Thanks Bill and thanks for commenting and subscribing!
ATB, Robin
very cool, never seen one of those, I have an automatic boring head but that is defiantly new to me very interesting
Most of the time you could do tapers with some special cutters but this is more universal. Thanks for watching!
oh ya was just surprised to see a tool I didn't recognize very cool
One thing about MDF is it is highly abrasive on cutting tips.
Vacuum is a great idea to keep the nasty dust under control.
BTW, cool accessory that Tree unit.
I may be wrong but I think you might be confusing particle board with MDF. Particle board eats even coated carbide end mills for lunch but I find MDF not much different than Pine. The Tree unit is very handy for the very rare cases I need it.
No, the glues are renowned for take the edge off tools. Carbide of course always holds up better. A quick google for MDF toll blunt will tell the story, and of course personal experience.
First thought I had was how the safety clowns where I work today would throw a fit watching someone hold that ring while the boring head runs.
Just found you, great stuff, wish i could of known you 20 years ago!
Thanks, I am glad you are enjoying the content.
I am new to your channel but I can already see you have some nice toys in your toy box.
Thanks for coming
What a ! Pervert !! You are !
Nice job I loved seeing the taper head in action now I want one!...oh and I also want a chamfer Meister
Thanks
now that's a pretty spiffy setup. my schmid boring head does something like that for planing a circular surface. rather than grabbing hold of the ring it has a rod that attaches to the advancement ring
I have a wholhaupter boring head that is the same setup.
HolzMichel
Could you give me information on your boring head
Wholhaupter UP3
Good to see an amazing toolmaker machinist with spelling almost as bad as mine
Thanks Ras, I am too stupid to know what was misspelled!
Thanks for commenting and watching,
Robin
+ROBRENZ really enjoying the videos, thanks very much. You keep everything in your shots so clean. I aspire to that every day. Your videos have a lot of action sped up so it's interesting. I am now in a shop that does a lot of very small work. I have only been watching your videos for a couple days and have learned a lot.
+ROBRENZ been watching you all day today and have learned a lot. I just moved to a shop that does a lot of very small work. You keep the tools in your shots so extremely clean, I aspire to that every day. I like your film style, lots of sped up action with you commenting over.
Love your video's, keep them coming
Hey Robin,
What are the two tapped holes in the top of your Kurt used for? They caught my eye.
All the best,
Tom
+oxtoolco I made some plating tank support frames out of 4" square pulltruded fiberglass tubing many years ago. Some pieces were about 10' long and I needed to be squared on the ends. The tapped holes are 1/2-13 to match my stud set and I used 2 studs and a strap clamp over the tubing to hold it tight to the vise base when the 10 feet was hanging out. Also a very cool use of them here th-cam.com/video/wwgO6Lg4RZM/w-d-xo.htmlm50s All the best, Robin
Thanks. I had wondered why the Tree I accidentally bought didn't lock to the rack.
You are welcome Andy and thanks for watching!
This must be the most over engineered thing I've ever seen.
It gets worse, watch some more of my videos :-)
Dear Robin, probably watched this video 5 times, tool envy for sure. Would you be able to do a TH-cam short on your ceramic lap setup? Or quickly describe the (or let me know if this has been answered and I'll search) ceramic lap and what you use for lapping compound? As always thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi there, did you just bore taper holes, just because you had a taper boring tool ? What was wrong with large parallel holes, would have been quicker and achieve the same wall mounted rack. Did you also consider putting 3 or 4 felt strips down the taper holes to stop the tools from touching the wood all the way down and risking a build up of damp / rust if no air can get buy. Oily felts would help the problem, especially if occasionally you rotated the tools you did not use very often.
The MDF will definitely hold up better with the taper than hitting just a edge top and bottom. Also a good chance of busting out the bottom lip when you stick a heavy holder in and catch it with the end of the taper. Also a good chance to show people something they may not even know existed. The taper bores are painted and them talcum powder was rubbed in to have a non stick surface. I don't want oil on the tapers in general and I have had no issues since the video with rust. Thanks for the comments.
ATB, Robin
Good demo on the tree. I've used these before.
Thanks HRM and thanks for watching and commenting!
Rob , hadn't seen / heard from you for a while , was getting concerned , glad to see your back .
John
+KD0CAC Thanks John, I have been real busy but I plan to do a lot of machining videos now.
the pencil you are using is a kuru toga rotogrip. it rotates the lead so the point maintains its rotational symmetry (sharpness, effectively)
You are correct, thanks for watching!
Thats some real fine mdf machining:)
Thanks Do R/C and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Thank you for all the details
Really great video. I found it funny that you were sometimes fighting your machinist instincts/standards. One minute you were saying this is only an MDF toolholder, so no need for high precision, the next you are working to an very high standard. I hope you keep making videos.
Is the chamfer meister a shop-built tool?
--Ed
Yeah its a struggle to not want everything within tenths. I will be back at videos in Jan 2017. The Chamfer meister is shop built and there will be a video on it in the near future. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Volcker1929 I'm a hot fodder and metalworking guy at heart and a very amateur woodworker but I've never seen a .030 adjustment boring a hole in wood. I've been watching Robins videos for quite awhile, I'm sure the level of quality he demands of himself crosses over into everything he builds, no matter how mundane.
@@ROBRENZ You'd be BETTER! OFF Putting it in the Metal SHREADDER ! If YOU'RE HAVING DIFFICULTY ! AND SEVERLY ! CONFUSED ! WITH ! THAT !!
Hi great idea the use of an angle will make use of this myself thanks
Good Demo of the Taper Boring Head.
but probably over Kill for us mere mortals making a tool holder rack out of scrap.
Unless your location is Directly on a Fault line and there is a risk of the Holders Vibrating out.
Maybe us Average Joe's would just use a Hole Saw and Let the Flange of the Holder rest on the rack.
I made a bunch of racks out of Scrap Pallet slats.
two Vertical end Pieces as Legs Tall enough so the Stud doesn't hit the table.
and a Series of Hole Saw cut holes large enough for the Gauge line diameter to fit through.
So the Flange of the holder is supporting the mass of the tool.
I think If I wall mounted them like you did.
I Cut the angle wedges so that the Knob just rests against the backer board.
The Flange supports the Mass of the tool, and the Knob rests against the back.
but then, that wouldn't have worked to Demo how the Taper Boring head Works.
and I think, that was the Whole Purpose of your Video.
What can I make to Show how this Taper Boring head works.
I'll make super precision tool holder racks.
Great Videos by the way.. I look forward to what you have to Share.
I thoroughly admire your attention to detail on even the most basic of so projects. Did I spy a Kuru Toga pencil when you were making the hole locations? I love the concept of them, but not completely sold on the execution.
+thavinator Thanks, yes that was a Kuru toga pencil. I agree it might not work as effectively as they claim.
I like it a bit better after cleaning some of the grease out of it. It gives the mechanism a lighter feel, but unfortunately also makes it feel just a bit sloppy. I think to get it right it needs to be made much more precisely, to get a light enough feel without too much slop. Of course at that point it ain't gonna be a $6 pencil... Hey, you need another project? ;)
It's seems to Be BURNING ! QIUTE ! A ! SEVERE ! HOLE !.IN ! YOUR ! POCKET ! What's the Reason then !??
On my SIP Jig borer 6A Hydroptic when setting the amount of cut after my first cut and measuring with a ball I would back away from said side of face drop the tool into the bore with z axis back away from the side the amount i wanted to cut eg, .040" come back to my origin and it would be within .0005 Nice tool.
I love the 6A's ...... nice big table with lots of room for the work. The 640 is the cnc version of the 6A and is every bit as precise.
@@bobjimenez4464 Can't beat the precision of these beauties.
You are very entertaining to watch, and have some great content! Another sub here for sure!
Brad
Thanks Brad and thanks for subbing and commenting!
Really funny watching a guy who is comfortable with millionths of an inch work with wood where -/+ 20 thou is plenty good for nearly everything :D
Rob must have some serious sex. No joke
only a machinist would complicate this project by taper boring the holes instead of drilling them through.
i'll keep my eye open for Tree taper boring head.
I'm a subscriber and I enjoyed the video but feel that MDF is not a good choice for holding any sort of tool shank. As a few other commenters have noted, MDF will likely absorb and transfer moisture at some point to the tool holder surface. While MDF has a fair amount of resin binder, it will absorb moisture, and paint does only a little to slow that process. Metal or plastic in contact with the tool holders makes more sense to me for the application.
I agree technically with all your points but 16 months in daily use with no problems. Thanks for subscribing and commenting.
Thanks for the reply. I was speaking more in terms of what would be ideal, not just what may suffice. Glad it is working well for you all the same, and i enjoyed learning about the tapering head.
Wow, I don't think even Mr Pete has one of those!
Because ! He's ! STUCK ! On ! Having ! Way ! Too Much ! Wheat !
Chamfer-Meister !, I need to build one of those , great time saver
I will be doing a video fairly soon on the design of the important features.
I am looking forward to this. Seems like a huge time saver.
good project my friend
Nothin fancy, just a mirror finish on carbide... :/
Easy with a ceramic lap.
With GRIT ! Too !
eBay has a few of these (used) taper boring heads for sale....from $500 to $1,000. Far more than a regular boring head. Needless to say, I won't be getting one. Not that I really need it....I've been a machinist for 35 years and I've never encountered a job requiring tapered holes other than those done on a lathe. Anyway, and as you said, Robrenz, the TREE boring head is a well designed cutting tool.
Robin, awesome job and awesome tool. Is the adjustment of the tool bit arm just by a metal rule or am I just being stupid + the knurled component is for gripping as the head rotates? I am trying to get how this really well engineered head works. Great finished job and safe, protected tools in the shop, well done young man. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thanks Joe, The radial adjustment of the tool is just where you decide to tighten the swiveling tool bar. There is no fine adjust but with a taper you can adjust size by just lowering the quill or raising the knee. You just need to do the trig on what diameter change you will get per increment of Z movement. When you hold the knurled collar it drives the angular slide thru a gear train.
Thanks for commenting and watching!Robin
+ROBRENZ Robin, many thanks for the explanation, what an amazing tool, I have never seen any of the other guys using anything like this head. A great result, even on crappy MDF, what a result!!
Excellent presentation. I never knew that such boring head excited, does it have a commercial partnumber ?
Thanks.
Not that I am aware of.
Great, another tool I didn't know I need/want. :-) CNC was obviously a huge advancement in machining and it's made a whole lot of products a lot cheaper to produce.But it sure killed off many company's who made some really clever manual machine accessory's. Volstro was another who made a lot of very desirable tooling for Bridgeport sized machines.
As usual a very well explained video about how it works and is set up Rob. It might take longer but can the tool slide be retracted just by running the mill in reverse and holding the ring?
Didn't think there were many like myself who sometimes use a mill for working wood even though I've never seen any mention of not doing so. The dust and chips are a pain but I can't fault the obtainable accuracy. Fwiw Wagner who are also now out of business made what was called a Saf-T-Planer originally designed for drill press use before the cheap off shore wood planers started being sold. It's basically a 3" diameter 3 tooth face mill for wood that works really well on a mill. Some TH-cam videos around showing some scary use on drill presses.
Thanks Turning Point and yes it will go the other direction in reverse.
Your first Paragraph , Are you Blaming Computers ! For those Companies !??and last paragraph , that's not to be confused with the Blade put on Angle Grinders !?? Is it !.
I sure enjoyed learning about the taper boring head, BUT this a 1000% overkill. Two diameters bore would have achieve exactly the same functionality and permit a further tilt as soon as the CAT holder was pulled out a bit.
Amazing tool !
Thanks John and thanks for commenting and watching!
Hi Robin , doesn't that flickering fluorescent light drive you nuts. It's not doing your video any favours. Back to the show.
Thanks Robin, that was most informative. Makes me wonder what sort of a "convoluted mind" came up with a device like that. Must have had some really bad sleep nights thinking it through. Are they still made and where?
Regards from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦👍
Lights were a bad ballast. I don't think that boring head is made any more.
@@ROBRENZ thanks for the information.
Just like AVEs Channel !.is !. Too !.
Muito bom seu trabalho amigo, parabéns.
Muito obrigado
Interesting ,you used M D F instead of soft metal, some machinists might look askance, wondering about durability of those holders. I find it refreshing to see non metals being used,however those are hydrodynamic, and are subject to shrink and swell.Check for rust often on the least often used tools.
Thanks for your concern. The taper holes were painted along with the whole thing. That has seemed to seal the MDF as I have had no issues in the 18 months of daily use. I think you meant hygroscopic. Thanks for watching and commenting.
No, he ment hydrodynamic. As the chipboard will take up and release moisture to attempt parity with its environment.
Good job, loved the boring head.
So what's your average weather Conditions ! There
If a holder is not often used, the rack could draw away what little lubricant there is and cause rusting. I've saturated wood racks with grease or oil and the rust still creeps in... All metal racks now. Otherwise awesome!
I have not had any problems yet but MDF is not the same as real wood.
Keep the fingers crossed, I have had issue with MDF too. Another one is the gray foam that dies and causes rusting in a lot of tooling cases.
great idea I use a DPM in work and I love it fantastic machine
Thanks Simon and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
Nice job,
Your accent says you're either from the Philly area or still around there, LOL
Chester county accent! but live in Lancaster county now.
Hi, I just stumbled across your video. Very interesting boring head! May be a silly question as I'm not yet a regular, but what are the cat 40 holders for? I'm thinking a CNC. If you have a CNC why not just bore the taper with the CNC? I've made several of these for my NMTB 30 CNC tool holders. I've made some years ago in Aluminum and they worked great, but about 6 months ago I made some from MDF. My shop is not climate controlled and humidity is high in the summer. I've found the MDF is holding moisture causing my tapers to rust where contact with the MDF. Be sure to coat your tapers with some oil if you live in a humid environment. I'm going to re make mine from a different material. MDF is not great for this.
Hi Roger, yes for a CNC. I know I could spiral path a taper hole with an end mill on the CNC. But I know of no way to single point taper bore on a CNC unless you are talking about the boring mill heads with radial out feed control. I painted the tapered bores of the MDF and have had no rust problems in my air conditioned shop. Thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
Air conditioned shop is the key! As for boring the taper. I use Fusion 360 , I just drew a circle extruded at the correct taper angle, then did a 2D bore. The bore operation respected the taper in the model. I just used a flat endmill and it came out good enough. A ball endmill would have given a better surface finish.
here is the Fusion file: a360.co/2c0MCZT
Hi Rob, great video! What's the function of the red button on the right side of the boring head when viewed from the front? Thanks
Thanks, that is the red handle of the 3/16 Allen T wrench stuck in the back of the unit to do the rapid retract.
oh, haha my mistake, thanks for clearing that up!
Rob, I know this is an old video but I am hoping you can tell me the brand Bevel Gauge you are using? Thank you very much. Joe
unknown import
@@ROBRENZ Thanks so much for taking the time to answer, I do appreciate it and I appreciate your channel and you sharing your tremendous knowledge.
I hate grammar police but I have to I'm sorry I have to you hit one of my pet peeves it's height not heighth it ends in a tee not an age I am sorry you're a great guy you're a damn genius I love your videos please allow me this LOL I hate grammar police but this is driving me crazy
You're not the only one!
It could be Your ! School ! Had Severe Problems ! Here !
thanks for the demo of the tapered boring head
You are welcome!
Machine tools for woodworking and full of wood chips. Never seen that before. I won't even use my good steel drill bits in wood unless they're already dull and I'm desperate. Better make sure you treat that wood with something to prevent it from soaking up moisture if you live in an area with any humidity to speak of. Sitting in those racks if there's moisture in the wood will rust the hell out of your tools. There's a reason most wooden cases for gauges and indicators are oiled wood. That particle board and whatever adhesive its made with could be an issue all by themselves.
Sounds like !.your QUITE ! A ! DESPERADO ! ALREADY !!
The price of the TREE Taper Boring Head is still very high in 2019? Coincidence? I think NOT!
I bought one of those 20 years a go on the USA EBAY site, cost me $200 then when the A$ was 1 for 1.
BTW, the Tree boring head with taper ability is actually a boring and facing head not just a plain boring head.
I just got one on eBay a couple days ago for $500.00
@@oldSawyer Lucky you......nice bit of engineering and cheap at that price for a boring and facing head.
@@davidwillard7334 What happened?
as mentioned, these videos must be watched a few times over to catch everything, much like stefan's.
you just wont find better reference videos.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Stefan's Video ! Was ! Clearly ! Stuffed !
Can you cutt steel with this head.
Yes
could mount the boards flat and bore your holes at an angle. would give the same advantage and not make a crud krack on the back
Hi mate. You do know that that stuff is made from trees ay. Nicely done, though. How irritatingly simple are those elastic bands to hold those spacers. Bloody infuriating!!!
They are extremely expensive but they work so well they are worth it! : )
Sometimes one has to invest to get the best. It's hard, but there you go.
Yeah, I never though of rubber bands for holding parallels. How annoyingly simple indeed.