I love your investment in taking your time doing everything right. I can’t get enough of your content. The quality of your content is only equalled by the quality of your work. I am definitely learning some tricks that will help me do the delete on my truck this spring and do it right so I can pass it to my son someday. 👍👍🤝👍👍
I absolutely love this channel… you make all of this stuff make sense. I love y’all’s simplicity to where I can even understand 🥴 thank you thank you…thank you!!
UTX, New to your channel. Thanks for tearing down and reassembling this 5.3 and showing your audience members/subscribers how to. I know a few helicopter maintenance-related tasks, not car engine/transmission-related things. I do recognize 'plastigage'. Cool how that stuff works. Looking into getting a 2015-2020 Chevy Express van (long wheel base) with the 6L90 transmission. Engine preference: 8th VIN digit 'G' is my driving force for the engine I want. L96, flex fuel, 6-liter, port-injection. No AFM/DOD, please. Watching and listening to you (and others) really deters me from an engine with DOD/AFM....and direct injection. No thanks. Port-injection only please!! Carbon build up on the intake valves is completely unnecessary. I am more than happy with 360 hp if I can avoid direct injection.
Hello PDX. You are correct. It would be wise to stay away from a LT for sure. I have a box van out back that has a L96 and a 6l90. It is a 2012 GEN 4. We have been wanting to do some GEN 4 content and plan to put it in our 74 K20. Much more complicated than the Gen 3 stuff but will be worth the work I am sure. Good luck in your search. Keep us posted. Jerry and Emily
Thanks Gumby! On this engine, we reused the original VVT cam sprocket and installed a new Melling chain and crank sprocket, and new chain guides. This engine was low miles with very little wear on the chain and sprockets. If I had my choice, I would have replaced the VVT sprocket and bolt also, but they are expensive. We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
Just watched my first video of yours and being a gearhead myself for over 50 years no joke but I am getting older but did I miss the part where you put in the side main bolts ? I didn't see where anybody else commented on it I was just wondering . Overall I enjoyed everything and I will watch more btw im 70 yrs old and still wrenching but not near as much as I want to !!! Thanks. G is watching
Assembly lube: better to use too much than not enough. I’m getting a GMC Denali with the 5.3. Your video inspired me to do the delete on it. Great job and thanks. I have a ball dog also but he’s a Doberman…
Thanks Kraz. I get so much flack for using too much lube on things. Glad to have somebody agree with me for once. Good luck on your delete. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@UglyTruckExperience ,thank you,one thing I don't trust , orings and gm oil systems.....don't trust that valley pan, there are plugs that can be inserted with a hammer,in fact I just bought the bearing on amazon that you take the roller bearings out and they plug the holes..
We've always had great luck with Melling oil pumps. The part number for a 2007 5.3 high volume pump would be M295HV. Here's a link! amzn.to/4a7nJ9V Thanks for watching!
The way you keep the Ford cam phasers from failing comma is regularly used either marvel mystery oil, a quart in the engine for about a week before you do an oil change. Or you can put a quart of transmission fluid in it. Which will do almost as good a job at cleaning but the transmission fluid will do a better job at keeping all the seals in great shape. Which is something you could do anyway you can always put a half a quart to a quart of transmission fluid and any engine and run it that way.
Thanks Hawk. I have used the transmission fluid trick to do a good cleaning. Will give Marvel a try. Thanks for watching and commenting. We appreciate it.
Hi Marcus! No, those engines are quite a bit different than the LC9 in this video. When I'm not familiar with an engine, I'll stop in at a machine shop and ask them what can and can't be done to them. The LS4 is so specific to those cars that I'm not sure what parts are available for them. Thanks for watching, and hope this helps! --Jerry and Emily
Hey guys I love your channel. Awesome stuff and really detailed. I swapped an 80k10 and it ran wonderful for the little time I had it. Pretty much found too many projects and I lost interest in it and regret it evey day. I will binge watch a lot of your videos!
Thanks for the video. I think in part 1 you mentioned that the truck had some oil pressure issues. Did you determine that it was the cam bearings? Did you replace all the cam bearings? Can't the DOD engines lose oil pressure as a result of the gaskets failing in the valley cover? Just wondering what your final thoughts were on this.
I have seen the valley cover bolts be loose and result in that valley gasket leaking. When I take the intake off I check for loose bolts right away. This engine would start up cold at around 40 lbs. pressure and gradually climb down to less than ten as it warmed up, which is a pretty good indication of bearings. Hard to see in the video but cam bearings we're worn pretty good. We put all new bearings in it, including rod and main and it's oil pressure returned to normal. Thanks Car Stars. Hope this helps. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperienceoh no my 2012 gmc Sierra has low oil pressure it doesn’t go down to 10 psi. But it will go down to about 22 24 after running for a while. I was told that these motors per GM can go that low and not worry about it. I also read that the oil pressure sending unit is a common problem with these motors. And replacing it can fix it my point is my motor only has 137k miles on it and to have a possible bearing issue in the lower half of the block is REALLY upsetting.
The old mechanic that taught me use transmission fluid to clean the cylinder walls said the high detergent was a good cleaner but as long they were clean it doesn't matter
I learned more from the guy that I first went to work with in one year than I did in the next ten years after that. They knew all the tricks. Thanks, I learned something new today.
No, it is new clean oil. Any time I have a piston out and am reassembling the motor I will always submerge the piston in oil for a few moments before assembly. Thanks for your question.
Uncle Tony just did a video of an engine that was full of junk from the machine shop and someone put it together without cleaning it , fortunately they caught it before fire up
Once again what another great video, that block looks clean enough to eat off of it. When you checking the gap on your rings do you keep that set of rings for that cylinder? The quality of y'all's work is just unreal you can really tell that y'all love doing what you are doing. Maybe I could reach out to y'all sometime to do a LS swap in my little Chevy. Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much for your comment! We really do love this stuff, and we've got some fun projects coming up. 😊 Yes, once we check the piston ring gap, that ring stays with that cylinder. Thanks for watching!
Few questions 1) after deleting dod & before starting up truck, was there programing so the computer keeps mode in v8 ? 2) i have over 180k on my 07’ 5.3L 4x4 Avalanch, i have failed lifter & scored cam (cyl 5) i want to pursure deleting DoD method , u think worth it or swapping out with less milage engine ?
I have had horrible luck with the low mile used engines I have been buying. I personally would fix the engine that you have. While I am doing the work on these I send the computer out and have the dod deleted on it. That way you don't have to stare at the check engine light. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperiencewho are you sending the computer to. I have looked for something locally but have yet to find one that 1 can do it without putting it on a Dyno or has good reviews on Google
I bought them at Amazon. www.amazon.com/Acarte-Carburetor-Cleaner-Cleaning-Needles/dp/B072JVQ5DT/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1HAZPT2TST00L&keywords=oil+galley+brush+kit&qid=1650900857&sprefix=%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-14
Subscribed! Wanted to know if you wanted to get rid of the VVT, would you have more problems to deal with? Is that one more thing that needs to get fixed on the computer? Etc?? Thanks 😀
Thanks for subscribing. The VVT on these ls motors work really nicely I think. I don't have a problem with them so I leave it on there. The only downfall is the cost of that vvt sprocket. If I had wanted to remove it I would have had the programmer take it out of the ecm and would have bought a different gear set for it. It really is just a personal preference. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks Jerry… I would like to rebuild an LC9 with the DOD delete and am trying to get ideas… I’m in southern alabama and trying to find a block to completely rebuild then put into my 09 Silverado. I appreciate your videos. If you know anybody in The Wiregrass area that has LS LC9 blocks I’m all ears. Thanks again!!
@@UglyTruckExperience I put in JEGS DOD kit and I have put the VVT back on and I running into some major issues trying to get it to turn once the timing for VVT is at the 6 and the pulley cranked at the 12. It won't move and suggestions? Thank you
In this video this is a LC9 which is a all aluminum block which would not be painted from the factory. Adding a coat of paint to a aluminum block kind of defeats the purpose. Aluminum is a great heat transfer when air is passed over it. Same reason aluminum radiators are not painted. When we send out cast iron blocks that are dipped and cleaned we paint them. Thanks
Yes I did, I looked at it for a quick moment last week when it came in. I will take a better look at it tomorrow. From what I saw it looked like a pretty good deal. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience can i use my existing throttle cables or do I need to order something different for the ls swap? my 97 vortec has 2 cables going to the intake
I have taken apart 3 LS engines and every single one of them but one cylinder one of them had Point 030 gaps. Is it any wonder why they drink oil. You shouldn't have a gap whiter than .018-.022. Even that is wide for a normally aspirated engine.
@@UglyTruckExperience @ does that rebuild requires new crank, pistons, and cam? I have a 5.3 lm7, with high mileage, to rebuild, but not sure if those parts arr require to replace them,👋
It will depend on how it looks when you take it apart. We got lucky and were able to have the crank polished, and install new bearings. If you have it torn down that far, you might as well put new rings on the pistons and install a new cam when you put it back together. If it's high mileage, you'd definitely want to go with a new timing set and oil pump, too. Best of luck! 👍
This one was right on that outer limit which is to be suspected I guess for a polished crank. The high volume oil pump will take care of that. It ended up having great pressure thankfully. Thanks
It is always a surprise to pull a head off and see what pistons it will have. Gm buys them from different suppliers and they can vary a bunch from what they have on top for valve reliefs. Thanks for watching
Very welcome. You 2 remind me of my wife and myself. We've been married 22 years and we really have Amy friends cause they get jealous of us. We still love being around each other and doing stuff together. It's nice to see another couple being playful. And in a clean way not all the wild stuff you see now days on social media lol. Thanx again
Hello Robert. I would have to look back at my records to be sure but I believe the total for parts, labor and machine shop was around 4 thousand. Jerry
If.you have a dod engine that has not had any issues with the lifters yet, you could just have the dod deleted from the computer and it would be fine. If it has developed problems, the most economical thing to do is put a non dod cam and lifters in and block off the oil passages from the vlom. Jerry
You are out of spec on the mains. Spec MAX is .0025 You read off .003 Also out of spec on the rods. If you are going to use the crank without regrinding, do NOT have a shop polish the crank. Very, very minor defects can be touched up using strips of 600 grit wet/dry paper. If the scratches are too severe for a light touch up by hand, then cut the crank .010 or whatever it needs. When a machine shop grinds a crank, they leave a little extra on the journal to account for the polishing. Same with boring. If you cannot touch up the cylinders with a fine hone, then have the block bored.
Thanks for watching and paying attention. I try to stress the importance for somebody to check their own specs for what they are working on. I'm surprised that I was only 5 ten thousands off. Thanks again. Jerry
I love your investment in taking your time doing everything right. I can’t get enough of your content. The quality of your content is only equalled by the quality of your work. I am definitely learning some tricks that will help me do the delete on my truck this spring and do it right so I can pass it to my son someday. 👍👍🤝👍👍
Thanks Rob! We're glad you're enjoying the videos. We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
Perfectionist at heart awesome attention to the details
Thanks Chance! We appreciate you watching!
Good chemistry. Really enjoy watching ur videos
I appreciate that
.
.
I absolutely love this channel… you make all of this stuff make sense. I love y’all’s simplicity to where I can even understand 🥴 thank you thank you…thank you!!
Thanks so much for your comment! We really appreciate you watching!
UTX, New to your channel. Thanks for tearing down and reassembling this 5.3 and showing your audience members/subscribers how to. I know a few helicopter maintenance-related tasks, not car engine/transmission-related things. I do recognize 'plastigage'. Cool how that stuff works.
Looking into getting a 2015-2020 Chevy Express van (long wheel base) with the 6L90 transmission. Engine preference: 8th VIN digit 'G' is my driving force for the engine I want. L96, flex fuel, 6-liter, port-injection. No AFM/DOD, please. Watching and listening to you (and others) really deters me from an engine with DOD/AFM....and direct injection. No thanks. Port-injection only please!! Carbon build up on the intake valves is completely unnecessary. I am more than happy with 360 hp if I can avoid direct injection.
Hello PDX. You are correct. It would be wise to stay away from a LT for sure. I have a box van out back that has a L96 and a 6l90. It is a 2012 GEN 4. We have been wanting to do some GEN 4 content and plan to put it in our 74 K20. Much more complicated than the Gen 3 stuff but will be worth the work I am sure. Good luck in your search. Keep us posted. Jerry and Emily
First time watching your video and you just made my headache go away. I'll be waiting to watch more of your videos. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Bobby! We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
Great video, i was looking forward to how and what you used for the timing chain and gears.
Thanks Gumby! On this engine, we reused the original VVT cam sprocket and installed a new Melling chain and crank sprocket, and new chain guides. This engine was low miles with very little wear on the chain and sprockets. If I had my choice, I would have replaced the VVT sprocket and bolt also, but they are expensive. We appreciate you watching! --Emily and Jerry
Just watched my first video of yours and being a gearhead myself for over 50 years no joke but I am getting older but did I miss the part where you put in the side main bolts ? I didn't see where anybody else commented on it I was just wondering . Overall I enjoyed everything and I will watch more btw im 70 yrs old and still wrenching but not near as much as I want to !!!
Thanks. G is watching
I think you're the first person to notice that! I skipped a few parts on this video when I was editing. We appreciate you watching!
I got the tone loc reference. Great song
Glad someone gets our references! 🤣 Thanks for watching!
Assembly lube: better to use too much than not enough. I’m getting a GMC Denali with the 5.3. Your video inspired me to do the delete on it. Great job and thanks. I have a ball dog also but he’s a Doberman…
Thanks Kraz. I get so much flack for using too much lube on things. Glad to have somebody agree with me for once. Good luck on your delete. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
Do you remove the bypass valve in the oil pan and plug it up?
No, but I do replace them if the engine had a low oil pressure issue.
Beginning of the vid,what wheels on the vehicle on the lift,no tire ,looks like a nice wheel for my regal
Hi Dennis! Those are Vision 148 Shift wheels. We are really happy with them on our Dart. Here's a link! amzn.to/49960gl Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
@UglyTruckExperience ,thank you,one thing I don't trust , orings and gm oil systems.....don't trust that valley pan, there are plugs that can be inserted with a hammer,in fact I just bought the bearing on amazon that you take the roller bearings out and they plug the holes..
Which high volume oil pump did you go with, looking to do this to my 07 Tahoe thanks for the Guidance
We've always had great luck with Melling oil pumps. The part number for a 2007 5.3 high volume pump would be M295HV. Here's a link! amzn.to/4a7nJ9V Thanks for watching!
Is there a part 3 for this rebuild or just for the 6.0?
Hey Bryden! This rebuild has 2 parts, and the 6.0 rebuild has 3 (technically 4 with the teardown). Is there something specific you're looking for?
Did you say your all aluminum ls flash rusted? Or just the sleeves? Was that fluid film,you showed it briefly but didn't mention name.
Just the sleeves and anything that wasn't aluminum. It's called Rust-Block made by Evapo-Rust. Thanks for watching!
The way you keep the Ford cam phasers from failing comma is regularly used either marvel mystery oil, a quart in the engine for about a week before you do an oil change. Or you can put a quart of transmission fluid in it. Which will do almost as good a job at cleaning but the transmission fluid will do a better job at keeping all the seals in great shape. Which is something you could do anyway you can always put a half a quart to a quart of transmission fluid and any engine and run it that way.
Thanks Hawk. I have used the transmission fluid trick to do a good cleaning. Will give Marvel a try. Thanks for watching and commenting. We appreciate it.
Do these parts in the description work for the LS4 2006 Impala SS
Hi Marcus! No, those engines are quite a bit different than the LC9 in this video. When I'm not familiar with an engine, I'll stop in at a machine shop and ask them what can and can't be done to them. The LS4 is so specific to those cars that I'm not sure what parts are available for them. Thanks for watching, and hope this helps! --Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience ok thank you so much
Really enjoy your videos, I love the content. Love to see more of them. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching! There's more where that came from! 😁
this the guy I want working on my LS4
Thanks James! We appreciate you watching!
The guy using oil for engine assembly lube or the guy that said max tolerance was .025, these are 0.3 so they're fine?
Nice video I haven’t messed with one of them old motors in years.
Wish we could say the same. Just finished another DOD delete, same year and same mileage as this truck!
ATF cleans the bores well.
You are correct. That is all we used when I first started doing this stuff. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
Hey guys I love your channel. Awesome stuff and really detailed. I swapped an 80k10 and it ran wonderful for the little time I had it. Pretty much found too many projects and I lost interest in it and regret it evey day. I will binge watch a lot of your videos!
Thanks for watching! We're glad you found us! 😁
Outstanding build
Thanks Don. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Thanks for the video. I think in part 1 you mentioned that the truck had some oil pressure issues. Did you determine that it was the cam bearings? Did you replace all the cam bearings? Can't the DOD engines lose oil pressure as a result of the gaskets failing in the valley cover? Just wondering what your final thoughts were on this.
I have seen the valley cover bolts be loose and result in that valley gasket leaking. When I take the intake off I check for loose bolts right away. This engine would start up cold at around 40 lbs. pressure and gradually climb down to less than ten as it warmed up, which is a pretty good indication of bearings. Hard to see in the video but cam bearings we're worn pretty good. We put all new bearings in it, including rod and main and it's oil pressure returned to normal. Thanks Car Stars. Hope this helps. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperienceoh no my 2012 gmc Sierra has low oil pressure it doesn’t go down to 10 psi. But it will go down to about 22 24 after running for a while. I was told that these motors per GM can go that low and not worry about it. I also read that the oil pressure sending unit is a common problem with these motors. And replacing it can fix it my point is my motor only has 137k miles on it and to have a possible bearing issue in the lower half of the block is REALLY upsetting.
The old mechanic that taught me use transmission fluid to clean the cylinder walls said the high detergent was a good cleaner but as long they were clean it doesn't matter
I learned more from the guy that I first went to work with in one year than I did in the next ten years after that. They knew all the tricks. Thanks, I learned something new today.
Did you soak the piston in used engine oil.
No, it is new clean oil. Any time I have a piston out and am reassembling the motor I will always submerge the piston in oil for a few moments before assembly. Thanks for your question.
Uncle Tony just did a video of an engine that was full of junk from the machine shop and someone put it together without cleaning it , fortunately they caught it before fire up
I bet that happens a lot. They look really clean when you pick them up but they really are not. Thanks
Once again what another great video, that block looks clean enough to eat off of it. When you checking the gap on your rings do you keep that set of rings for that cylinder? The quality of y'all's work is just unreal you can really tell that y'all love doing what you are doing. Maybe I could reach out to y'all sometime to do a LS swap in my little Chevy. Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much for your comment! We really do love this stuff, and we've got some fun projects coming up. 😊 Yes, once we check the piston ring gap, that ring stays with that cylinder. Thanks for watching!
That's dang tight
Few questions
1) after deleting dod & before starting up truck, was there programing so the computer keeps mode in v8 ?
2) i have over 180k on my 07’ 5.3L 4x4 Avalanch, i have failed lifter & scored cam (cyl 5) i want to pursure deleting DoD method , u think worth it or swapping out with less milage engine ?
I have had horrible luck with the low mile used engines I have been buying. I personally would fix the engine that you have. While I am doing the work on these I send the computer out and have the dod deleted on it. That way you don't have to stare at the check engine light. Thanks for watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperiencewho are you sending the computer to. I have looked for something locally but have yet to find one that 1 can do it without putting it on a Dyno or has good reviews on Google
Where did you get your brush set?
I bought them at Amazon. www.amazon.com/Acarte-Carburetor-Cleaner-Cleaning-Needles/dp/B072JVQ5DT/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1HAZPT2TST00L&keywords=oil+galley+brush+kit&qid=1650900857&sprefix=%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-14
Great video as always!
Thanks for watching! 😁
Subscribed! Wanted to know if you wanted to get rid of the VVT, would you have more problems to deal with? Is that one more thing that needs to get fixed on the computer? Etc?? Thanks 😀
Thanks for subscribing. The VVT on these ls motors work really nicely I think. I don't have a problem with them so I leave it on there. The only downfall is the cost of that vvt sprocket. If I had wanted to remove it I would have had the programmer take it out of the ecm and would have bought a different gear set for it. It really is just a personal preference. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks Jerry… I would like to rebuild an LC9 with the DOD delete and am trying to get ideas… I’m in southern alabama and trying to find a block to completely rebuild then put into my 09 Silverado. I appreciate your videos. If you know anybody in The Wiregrass area that has LS LC9 blocks I’m all ears. Thanks again!!
@@UglyTruckExperience
I put in JEGS DOD kit and I have put the VVT back on and I running into some major issues trying to get it to turn once the timing for VVT is at the 6 and the pulley cranked at the 12. It won't move and suggestions? Thank you
any reason you never paint your engine blocks?
In this video this is a LC9 which is a all aluminum block which would not be painted from the factory. Adding a coat of paint to a aluminum block kind of defeats the purpose. Aluminum is a great heat transfer when air is passed over it. Same reason aluminum radiators are not painted. When we send out cast iron blocks that are dipped and cleaned we paint them. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience did Jerry get my email to see if the motor I am looking at is worth it or not?
Yes I did, I looked at it for a quick moment last week when it came in. I will take a better look at it tomorrow. From what I saw it looked like a pretty good deal. Jerry
Sent email about that motor. Worried that it is a dod
@@UglyTruckExperience can i use my existing throttle cables or do I need to order something different for the ls swap? my 97 vortec has 2 cables going to the intake
Wild thang!!!!
Yesss!!!! 😁
I have taken apart 3 LS engines and every single one of them but one cylinder one of them had Point 030 gaps. Is it any wonder why they drink oil. You shouldn't have a gap whiter than .018-.022. Even that is wide for a normally aspirated engine.
Nice build!!!
Thanks for watching!
@@UglyTruckExperience @ does that rebuild requires new crank, pistons, and cam? I have a 5.3 lm7, with high mileage, to rebuild, but not sure if those parts arr require to replace them,👋
It will depend on how it looks when you take it apart. We got lucky and were able to have the crank polished, and install new bearings. If you have it torn down that far, you might as well put new rings on the pistons and install a new cam when you put it back together. If it's high mileage, you'd definitely want to go with a new timing set and oil pump, too. Best of luck! 👍
Loved the cord length joke. LOL!
It's funny, we were just saying we weren't sure if anyone out there gets our dumb jokes! 🤣🤣 Thanks for watching!
Disappointment On Demand.
🤣🤣 Exactly!
Spot on assessment!!!!😂🤣😂
Enjoy y’all’s stuff,
We appreciate you watching! 😁
My sources say .0025 to .003 is right on the money for bearing clearance, if your not building a race engine that is.
This one was right on that outer limit which is to be suspected I guess for a polished crank. The high volume oil pump will take care of that. It ended up having great pressure thankfully. Thanks
Great videos
Thanks Geoffrey! We appreciate you watching!
One million is just around the bend. 😁
I just watched “I do cars “ and his 5.3 pistons were different than those ones ?
It is always a surprise to pull a head off and see what pistons it will have. Gm buys them from different suppliers and they can vary a bunch from what they have on top for valve reliefs. Thanks for watching
Great videos. I love the content. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! 👋
Very welcome. You 2 remind me of my wife and myself. We've been married 22 years and we really have Amy friends cause they get jealous of us. We still love being around each other and doing stuff together. It's nice to see another couple being playful. And in a clean way not all the wild stuff you see now days on social media lol. Thanx again
How much did a job like that cost? In today's market.
Hello Robert. I would have to look back at my records to be sure but I believe the total for parts, labor and machine shop was around 4 thousand. Jerry
Ya can't just re use your old DOD cam right? Need a new regular non DOD cam from a third party? Am I missing something here?
If.you have a dod engine that has not had any issues with the lifters yet, you could just have the dod deleted from the computer and it would be fine. If it has developed problems, the most economical thing to do is put a non dod cam and lifters in and block off the oil passages from the vlom. Jerry
You are out of spec on the mains.
Spec MAX is .0025
You read off .003
Also out of spec on the rods.
If you are going to use the crank without regrinding, do NOT have a shop polish the crank. Very, very minor defects can be touched up using strips of 600 grit wet/dry paper. If the scratches are too severe for a light touch up by hand, then cut the crank .010 or whatever it needs. When a machine shop grinds a crank, they leave a little extra on the journal to account for the polishing.
Same with boring. If you cannot touch up the cylinders with a fine hone, then have the block bored.
Thanks for watching and paying attention. I try to stress the importance for somebody to check their own specs for what they are working on. I'm surprised that I was only 5 ten thousands off. Thanks again. Jerry
👍
Delete vvt, Delete vvt!!!
Hey Greg.. Thanks for watching. What is it you don't like about VVT? Jerry
WHAT STATE ARE YOU IN? i want to send my 97 silverado to you to do an LS swap, it will make a great video, can this happen? I trust you so much
Thanks for your interest! We're in southwest Missouri. Send us an email at uglytruckexperience@gmail.com and tell us about your truck!
@@UglyTruckExperience sent it