This video gets you about 90% there. In addition to other comments, I would like to add that if using a paint pen to mark that the bolt is torqued, I would apply the paint after each bolt has been torqued, not all of them at the end.
I definitely want to say that your instruction is the best i have seen, your knowledge of these motors is awesome. I do have a quick question. Mine is on the stand. New cam, gears, pump and now the cover and oil pan is next. DO I need to install the rear main seal and gasket before I install my oil pan. Or is ok to install the pan first. TIA
Doting it w a paint pen does nothing but make urself feel better ab tqing it make it have a visible line so that way you can tell if the bolt has moved and need re torqued
Love how they skipped right over that. lol I remember finding out on my first LS that those long bolts don't like 18lb ft. Not to mention you can sometimes pull the rear cover down slightly and cause a future rear main seal leak.
@@SheaAP1 Yeah, I also learned to at least start those bolts into the rear cover before tightening anything down down- snapped a piece of the cover off good thing the engine was out of the car!
If you’re reinstalling the same pan and pickup from a previously running engine, imo this detail isn’t as important as in a new engine. Also, this detail isn’t a crucial in an LS that has a stationary pickup tube. It was crucial in Gen1 sbc and bbc engines where the pickup tube rotates inside the oil pump. To check it you measure the distance from the bottom of the pan to the pan rail, and on the engine from the pan rail to bottom of the pickup tube. Be sure to factor in the gasket thickness somewhere. There should be about 3/8” difference between these to measurements. Too much clearance and the pickup may be too far out of the oil, especially if the engine is low on oil. Too little clearance and you will pick sludge etc after the engine is older and also interfere with the pump’s ability to lift the oil. You could also use modeling clay or play dough. Place an index card over the pickup screen, place clay on card, install pan and gasket. Remove and measure the compressed clay.
A dot does nothing vs a witness line from the top of the bolt down to the pan itself. Also you didn’t RTV the corners of the rear plate so that will leak. Also didn’t check pickup clearance
This video gets you about 90% there. In addition to other comments, I would like to add that if using a paint pen to mark that the bolt is torqued, I would apply the paint after each bolt has been torqued, not all of them at the end.
Excellent video, thank you. You clearly showed where to apply rtv and the attention to detail in marking the bolts after torquing to spec.
Thanks for these videos - makes the most sense to me to take care of the front/rear covers first, then the oil pan last.
Finally someone shows where the two long thin bolts go !!!! Lol
I definitely want to say that your instruction is the best i have seen, your knowledge of these motors is awesome. I do have a quick question. Mine is on the stand. New cam, gears, pump and now the cover and oil pan is next. DO I need to install the rear main seal and gasket before I install my oil pan. Or is ok to install the pan first. TIA
Doting it w a paint pen does nothing but make urself feel better ab tqing it make it have a visible line so that way you can tell if the bolt has moved and need re torqued
The rear long bolts are 106 Lb-In and that's the final step
Love how they skipped right over that. lol
I remember finding out on my first LS that those long bolts don't like 18lb ft. Not to mention you can sometimes pull the rear cover down slightly and cause a future rear main seal leak.
@@SheaAP1 Yeah, I also learned to at least start those bolts into the rear cover before tightening anything down down- snapped a piece of the cover off good thing the engine was out of the car!
My stock LS oil pan has machining imperfections along the pan mating surface, do I still install pan dry?
i take an old bell housing and bolt it up then i align the pan
What pan is that!! Part number or link please
You left out the most important check, to verify that the pickup is at the correct distance from the oil pan!
How do you do that? What about just putting a stock one back on after dod delete? Need to then?
If you’re reinstalling the same pan and pickup from a previously running engine, imo this detail isn’t as important as in a new engine. Also, this detail isn’t a crucial in an LS that has a stationary pickup tube. It was crucial in Gen1 sbc and bbc engines where the pickup tube rotates inside the oil pump. To check it you measure the distance from the bottom of the pan to the pan rail, and on the engine from the pan rail to bottom of the pickup tube. Be sure to factor in the gasket thickness somewhere. There should be about 3/8” difference between these to measurements. Too much clearance and the pickup may be too far out of the oil, especially if the engine is low on oil. Too little clearance and you will pick sludge etc after the engine is older and also interfere with the pump’s ability to lift the oil. You could also use modeling clay or play dough. Place an index card over the pickup screen, place clay on card, install pan and gasket. Remove and measure the compressed clay.
A dot does nothing vs a witness line from the top of the bolt down to the pan itself. Also you didn’t RTV the corners of the rear plate so that will leak. Also didn’t check pickup clearance