Could this finally be happening?! 😲 I choose to believe it's finally happening at any rate! It's time this meme was dead and buried, so that we can look back on it with aplomb, as a certifiable canon event. Q: *_"Hey, remember when any time he needed to cut apart anything, he had to figure out a secure clamping method in the bench vise/vice, just so he could savage it with a hacksaw, hammer, and punches?_* *_And then remember all those times that the bench vise/vice failed at that one job?"_* RE: *_"Yeah, geez, I'll bet he's relieved to have that combination bandsaw/die-filer/espresso maker/planer/miter saw, so he can hone those barista skills now!"_* 🫶🏾
That's a handy tool. Looks pretty rugged as well. I built a machine to bend fret wires for guitar re-fretting. I extended the design to include a fouth roller that works to curve the end of the wires and eliminates the flats. Also it is reconfigurable to straighten wires as well. I used ball bearings in the rollers, roller skate bearings are cheap and good enough, so it runs smoothly. Mind you, fret wires are very easy to bend so the forces are minimal.
What you do is either use a break press to get the curv going. Or cut the part 4"longer, center punch it 2" from each end roll it and cut the flats out.
For such a basic design I'd say that it's a brilliant success! It was clearly straining a little... OK, a LOT!... with the 35x6. But the fact that it managed at all is amazing! Simple design does not mean bad at all ! ! ! And I love that you used a sub frame to use this smaller tool directly in the bench vise. A right proper small shop design choice. And entirely suitable for working relatively small size stock. Two things I saw which might make it a little better. If the two fixed rollers were a little closer together you would not get as wide a flat on the ends of the rolled strips. The length of the end flats is always going to be the same as the contact spacing of the fixed and moving rollers. Going narrower would raise the pressure needed. But since you found that you can bend the 6mm stock to make a ring clearly there is more than enough bending force to work with closer spaced idlers and to get shorter flat ends. I also see that the adjustable roller's pin wants to cock somewhat out of parallel. That's why the knurled roller wanted to walk off the pin due to the lack of a snap ring. And that is to be expected when it relies on the fit of the adjustment bolt thread and the stiffness of that thread. It simply flexed out of parallel to the idler pins by that much. If the adjuster screw where shifted closer to the roller the leverage would be less which would help. And perhaps if the threaded hole were canted just a degree or so to cancel out the inevitable play in the thread fit? So perhaps some ideas for a Mark II version? Perhaps not for you though. Clearly it works very well with the thinner stock. So I'm sure you agree that you don't need to make a Mark II version. But maybe these could be for someone else that takes your design to the next step? Speaking of the pin spacing could you tell us what the spacing is on the two idlers? And the diameter of the rollers? From those the rest of the design pretty much falls into place.
If you use high pressure gear oil for lubrication it should pretty much prevent any galling between rollers and pins. I would use synthetic so you don't have the sulphur smell. You could also use a bicycle chain/sprockets to drive the lower pair, 11 tooth sprocket is most common on wheel
I suppose the goal of any man should be to reach the level of skill and tools where one can fully replicate ones complete set of existing tools with at least the same durability and precision. Then one may never be controlled by another ever again.
Не обязательно всё должно быть идеально красивым, более важно чтобы то что делаешь выполняло свои функции. А этот прокатный станочек довольно хорошо справляется со своими задачами. 👍
I've always dreamt of building my own rollercoaster, so I've been very interested in rollbending machines, but when you search for that on youtube you only get like comercial bending montages and stuff like that. really enjoyed this!
Hi I have made a similar roller for my workshop. If you decide to make new rollers, I would suggest putting in the centre, a part circular groove. This will not affect the rolling of flat bar, but will enable the rolling of round bar. This is what I mainly use mine for. I make round plant supports, so I need 400-500 diameter rings. Ps allow extra on each end if you need a complete ring to allow for cutting off the flat areas. Hope this is some help
Before you start rolling the strip, Using the Anvil lightly start the ends of the strip into a curve for about an inch and a half to three quarters, this will eliminate the flats you experienced. If you dont have an anvil, a piece of round stock in the vice will do the same. Hope this helps.
Looks good. I think you should have mounted the handle to the other side, or made it a hex nut for a ratchet. This would allow you to do some flaring of edges on larger sheet, and let you swap the wheels out for grooved ones for a ring roller.
Could try case hardening the rollers and shafts if you think they’re going to wear or start galling, it’s definitely something you can do in a home workshop.
If you wish to make a perfect circle, just take a longer strip, and cut off the flats. Then weld the ends, and feed the ring once more through your roller to perfect it.
Be careful using a collet chuck in the lathe spindle unless you have a drawbar for it. MT tapers don't like lateral loads, there's a nonzero chance that the cutting forces could "wobble" the taper loose and ruin the part or the tool or both. That's why MT mill spindles have drawbars even though the taper is self-locking. 👍
This video brought me great relief. I always thought of myself as the worst welder in the world. But as it turns out, on the opposite side of the planet, … 😉
Ron Covell has some videos with ring rolling. It's better to oversize the ring and cut the flat bits off at the correct dimension to get the perfect diameter ring.
Does everything just rust in Australia if you look away for a few seconds? I suppose nearly everyone there lives near salt water, it makes sense, but man... I'd go bonkers having to cope with that. I have to really try to get anything to rust indoors, thankfully.
nice video iv been wanting to make one of these i got a copy of the fitting and machining green covered book you recommended and its great do you have any other books you recommend like that one?
I wonder how many people who refer to themselves as artisans don't possess a cutoff saw or a bandsaw or even a pedestal drill, yet make equipment that they will rarely use.
I wonder how many people who make comments on TH-cam don't possess the simple humanity to keep them from cutting good people down for no apparent reason.
@@ydonl I wonder how many people who reply to comments made on TH-cam don't possess the simple intelligence to realise that criticism is not cutting someone down.
He did mention bronze bushings in the rollers so he almost did but didn't have the raw materials for that and he was building the ring roller out of materials on hand. To use ball bearings themselves as the bottom rollers would require two per roller to get the needed width but would work fine. The top roller could be done too but would need a sleeve over the bearings to have something to weld the handle to.
Simplest answer: No need for bearings. Sure, bearings or bushings would increase longevity and reliability, while reducing the need for maintenance and lowering the force required to turn the handle. But at what cost? Increased part count, more complex & precise components, bearings or bushing material needs to be sourced. All this results in a more expensive project. He chose the simpler option, while keeping all of its functionality, and avoiding unnecessary steps. In a production environment, unnecessary complications are not accepted.
This question has been asked by thousands of people, when it was put to him enough times over 2 years ago, in answer, he made the worlds longest hacksaw(search "hacksaw" in his videos), in other words ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
You can do that, it just means you need to pull it apart to get the ring out once it’s made, and there are various designs that allow for that to happen
I think it's reasonably common for smaller ring rollers to be built that way. It does make it easier to remove the part when finished, especially if it's a complete circle.
because if the sides of the piece aren’t parallel machined surfaces, the vice jaws won’t make full contact. the pin provides a single point of contact on the moveable jaw so the that other side can make full contact with and reference against the fixed jaw
@@coldfire0101 He was also machining 2 plates of metal at the one time, and vice jaws are Never Exactly parallel when tightened, if you just put them in without the pin, one is duty bound to slip free and wreck your cutter.
this really could come very handy too, to build the covers for the selfmade bandsaw, we all are looking for ;)
Could this finally be happening?! 😲
I choose to believe it's finally happening at any rate! It's time this meme was dead and buried, so that we can look back on it with aplomb, as a certifiable canon event.
Q: *_"Hey, remember when any time he needed to cut apart anything, he had to figure out a secure clamping method in the bench vise/vice, just so he could savage it with a hacksaw, hammer, and punches?_*
*_And then remember all those times that the bench vise/vice failed at that one job?"_*
RE: *_"Yeah, geez, I'll bet he's relieved to have that combination bandsaw/die-filer/espresso maker/planer/miter saw, so he can hone those barista skills now!"_* 🫶🏾
All hail Sir Clips! The most steadfast of the King’s retainers!
I know his brother, Terry Clips.
"What do you do with a home machine shop?"
"Make tools for my home machine shop, obviously."
Always happy to see you post.
Non hobbyists just wouldn't understand.
It works great if you know what you are doing. it also cuts down on costs.
yes making my own tools means I get what I want, not what some one else thinks I want.
The number of confused stares when I say the same thing....:D
Exactly how 3D printers work lol
That's a handy tool. Looks pretty rugged as well.
I built a machine to bend fret wires for guitar re-fretting. I extended the design to include a fouth roller that works to curve the end of the wires and eliminates the flats. Also it is reconfigurable to straighten wires as well. I used ball bearings in the rollers, roller skate bearings are cheap and good enough, so it runs smoothly. Mind you, fret wires are very easy to bend so the forces are minimal.
What you do is either use a break press to get the curv going. Or cut the part 4"longer, center punch it 2" from each end roll it and cut the flats out.
For such a basic design I'd say that it's a brilliant success! It was clearly straining a little... OK, a LOT!... with the 35x6. But the fact that it managed at all is amazing! Simple design does not mean bad at all ! ! ! And I love that you used a sub frame to use this smaller tool directly in the bench vise. A right proper small shop design choice. And entirely suitable for working relatively small size stock.
Two things I saw which might make it a little better. If the two fixed rollers were a little closer together you would not get as wide a flat on the ends of the rolled strips. The length of the end flats is always going to be the same as the contact spacing of the fixed and moving rollers. Going narrower would raise the pressure needed. But since you found that you can bend the 6mm stock to make a ring clearly there is more than enough bending force to work with closer spaced idlers and to get shorter flat ends. I also see that the adjustable roller's pin wants to cock somewhat out of parallel. That's why the knurled roller wanted to walk off the pin due to the lack of a snap ring. And that is to be expected when it relies on the fit of the adjustment bolt thread and the stiffness of that thread. It simply flexed out of parallel to the idler pins by that much. If the adjuster screw where shifted closer to the roller the leverage would be less which would help. And perhaps if the threaded hole were canted just a degree or so to cancel out the inevitable play in the thread fit? So perhaps some ideas for a Mark II version? Perhaps not for you though. Clearly it works very well with the thinner stock. So I'm sure you agree that you don't need to make a Mark II version. But maybe these could be for someone else that takes your design to the next step? Speaking of the pin spacing could you tell us what the spacing is on the two idlers? And the diameter of the rollers? From those the rest of the design pretty much falls into place.
If you use high pressure gear oil for lubrication it should pretty much prevent any galling between rollers and pins.
I would use synthetic so you don't have the sulphur smell.
You could also use a bicycle chain/sprockets to drive the lower pair, 11 tooth sprocket is most common on wheel
I suppose the goal of any man should be to reach the level of skill and tools where one can fully replicate ones complete set of existing tools with at least the same durability and precision. Then one may never be controlled by another ever again.
Не обязательно всё должно быть идеально красивым, более важно чтобы то что делаешь выполняло свои функции. А этот прокатный станочек довольно хорошо справляется со своими задачами. 👍
You are right.
@@Convolutedtubules 👍🤝
I've always dreamt of building my own rollercoaster, so I've been very interested in rollbending machines, but when you search for that on youtube you only get like comercial bending montages and stuff like that. really enjoyed this!
You pack so much into 20 minute videos!! Awesome once again
Hi I have made a similar roller for my workshop. If you decide to make new rollers, I would suggest putting in the centre, a part circular groove. This will not affect the rolling of flat bar, but will enable the rolling of round bar. This is what I mainly use mine for. I make round plant supports, so I need 400-500 diameter rings. Ps allow extra on each end if you need a complete ring to allow for cutting off the flat areas. Hope this is some help
Before you start rolling the strip, Using the Anvil lightly start the ends of the strip into a curve for about an inch and a half to three quarters, this will eliminate the flats you experienced. If you dont have an anvil, a piece of round stock in the vice will do the same. Hope this helps.
Looks good. I think you should have mounted the handle to the other side, or made it a hex nut for a ratchet. This would allow you to do some flaring of edges on larger sheet, and let you swap the wheels out for grooved ones for a ring roller.
Could try case hardening the rollers and shafts if you think they’re going to wear or start galling, it’s definitely something you can do in a home workshop.
Amazing work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It's always a great night when This australian Tony posts ;)
Seriously, though, thst video went live at 2am?
Cheers. Editing takes fair fair chunk of time. It’s normally done by 1am then it takes time to upload and process
@@artisanmakes Prepping to travel with two small children kept me up late, so that was a welcome end to a stressful night!
If you wish to make a perfect circle, just take a longer strip, and cut off the flats. Then weld the ends, and feed the ring once more through your roller to perfect it.
I foresee a fly cutter build video coming soon! Not difficult to make and you could certainly use one 🙂
I have three, I’m just out of inserts for them at the moment
I'd love for you to build a power hacksaw/ cutoff saw thing.
It would be even cooler if it was a rotary hacksaw thing, like with a loop of hacksaws welded together
@@otterconnor942 Well, that would be a dremel. I was thinking something that could use ordinaryt hacksaw blades
sketch on steel seems pretty solid to me. Very solid and it works. =P
😄
Be careful using a collet chuck in the lathe spindle unless you have a drawbar for it. MT tapers don't like lateral loads, there's a nonzero chance that the cutting forces could "wobble" the taper loose and ruin the part or the tool or both. That's why MT mill spindles have drawbars even though the taper is self-locking. 👍
This video brought me great relief. I always thought of myself as the worst welder in the world. But as it turns out, on the opposite side of the planet, … 😉
very nice twiddley rolley turny handled bars for making skinny metal bananas and ninja hula hoops..
Excellent build
Thanks for sharing
nice bild.
cheers ben.
With all the BS going on in the world today, watching you make stuff in your shop is somehow reassures me that everything is gonna be ok
Very nice work, well done
love this guy
Oh damn, a metal *_RING_* roller! My mistake.
I was having trouble envisioning Rick Astley playing heavy metal. 😅
You just need to pre bend the ends before rolling (deadblow hammer will do) or make the piece longer and cut the flats off afterwards
Fly cutter =/= fly cutter =/= fly cutter. Depends on what you're cutting. :P
you need to cut the flat bar longer and roll the ends or form the end with a hammer using a radius template.
You can give that drive wheel a go with your case Harding process. Might give it a fighting chance.
Ron Covell has some videos with ring rolling. It's better to oversize the ring and cut the flat bits off at the correct dimension to get the perfect diameter ring.
well done
Great build! Might have to make something like this myself
Nice work, now you can knock up some fancy garden furniture in your spare time?
It's a compact one. Cheers 👍💪✌
"oh that spiral shape in the hole of my knurled part? Yeah thats on purpose its aa.. grease groove!"
i hoping to see u make a adapter for your callit chuck. the ring roller is cool.
A wild This Old Tony appears in the chat!
A good effort in making one. I have one that I bought but am not using, if you would like it I am willing to give it to you
16:45 like Stevie wonder with his feet 😂
Does everything just rust in Australia if you look away for a few seconds? I suppose nearly everyone there lives near salt water, it makes sense, but man... I'd go bonkers having to cope with that. I have to really try to get anything to rust indoors, thankfully.
nice video iv been wanting to make one of these
i got a copy of the fitting and machining green covered book you recommended and its great do you have any other books you recommend like that one?
I wonder how many people who refer to themselves as artisans don't possess a cutoff saw or a bandsaw or even a pedestal drill, yet make equipment that they will rarely use.
I wonder how many people who make comments on TH-cam don't possess the simple humanity to keep them from cutting good people down for no apparent reason.
@@ydonl I wonder how many people who reply to comments made on TH-cam don't possess the simple intelligence to realise that criticism is not cutting someone down.
Genuine Q from a noob:
Why not use bearings for the rollers, be it IN the rollers or AS the rollers themselves ?
Aren't they now? Inside the rollers is the bearing-surface.
price probably
He did mention bronze bushings in the rollers so he almost did but didn't have the raw materials for that and he was building the ring roller out of materials on hand. To use ball bearings themselves as the bottom rollers would require two per roller to get the needed width but would work fine. The top roller could be done too but would need a sleeve over the bearings to have something to weld the handle to.
You'd need to use roller bearings, which are quite expensive.
Simplest answer: No need for bearings.
Sure, bearings or bushings would increase longevity and reliability, while reducing the need for maintenance and lowering the force required to turn the handle.
But at what cost? Increased part count, more complex & precise components, bearings or bushing material needs to be sourced. All this results in a more expensive project.
He chose the simpler option, while keeping all of its functionality, and avoiding unnecessary steps.
In a production environment, unnecessary complications are not accepted.
you made an unknurler!
Are you planning on making another collet chuck for the new lathe?
👍👍
Why did you not just use motorcycle wheel bearings a cheap quick and sturdy option,and many sizes.
Your lathe chuck wobbling?
Doesn’t seem to be affecting the run out if it is
Класс!
It needs chamfers!
why don't you invest in a portaband saw instead of a hack saw would make facing faster
This question has been asked by thousands of people, when it was put to him enough times over 2 years ago, in answer, he made the worlds longest hacksaw(search "hacksaw" in his videos), in other words ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Wider and bigger rollers between two plates would have been a better design.
You can do that, it just means you need to pull it apart to get the ring out once it’s made, and there are various designs that allow for that to happen
why do you hold the metal in the vice using a pin on one side ??
I think it's reasonably common for smaller ring rollers to be built that way. It does make it easier to remove the part when finished, especially if it's a complete circle.
because if the sides of the piece aren’t parallel machined surfaces, the vice jaws won’t make full contact. the pin provides a single point of contact on the moveable jaw so the that other side can make full contact with and reference against the fixed jaw
@@MattFieldPhoto thanks bro
@@coldfire0101 He was also machining 2 plates of metal at the one time, and vice jaws are Never Exactly parallel when tightened, if you just put them in without the pin, one is duty bound to slip free and wreck your cutter.
if you giggled at 3:04 you are immature! =)
the roller wheels not wide enough
This roller was designed for a specific job- rolling the parts for guards on the grinder. Why do they need to be wider?
@@johncrowley5612 for making perfect circle😔
Comment.
All your gas argon.
Bop
Stop saying the "s" in debris, it is silent, even when it is plural!
Deb-riss*
heh, you're funny
1st
I second that
Don’t be cringe
You misspelled "moron"
@@sdspivey 🤣
Pro as everytime, now is easy to build grinding stone cover, or lathe protecting shield🦾
Love this guy