Good Video - I have a Neptune 3 Max and a Longer lk5 Pro. Both are good printers but the Max prints bigger and faster. I would love to know what setting in Cura I would have to change if I installed a 0.6 nozzle, because I do have one but have no idea what to change, bit of a newbie. Oh, the cable on your printer isn't installed correctly, I did the same thing as you when I installed it the first time and yes, it dragged on the bed, reroute it to point up and you will never have that problem again.
Another great review Adam, I have seen a few reviews of this machine and the vast majority of your concerns were not in these reviews, Kudos for digging deep and having the savvy to notice these issues, I notice Creality announced their K (Klipper) series of printers the other day, I cant wait to see how they will have cocked this up LOL, I wonder if they will ship with the Creality stripped apart version of Klipper and be festooned with updates or do the sensible thing and just go stock, I read that someone had 1 hour and 15 minutes of updates to the Sonic Pad in just one day and over 20 mins of updates a week later to fix the previous updates, at least Creality are consistant in their cockups LOL
Big printers are only practical for 0.5% percent of people(cosplay not included in that approximation). My voron 0.2(120 cubed) fits 98% of the parts i print, and the rest is printed on my ender 3v2(230x230x250). I'd MUCH rather have an ender 3 neo, or something similar.
@@neayt9952 C'mon it's not 0.5% that low. How could you make that bold estimation if the cosplayers community is already 20% of the 3D printer fan base?
@@Declopse that's my bad. I'm not into cosplay at all. Therefore I'm not participating in their communities and didn't know the sizes(just researched it. SCARY STUFF). I'll edit the comment
I appreciate you bringing up its drawbacks, though I did feel a sense of relief at the end because they were mostly nitpicks. I did wish though that you'd offered a bit more technical analysis, like measuring its speed and using it for small and detailed objects. Not everyone has a printer for every day of the week, so something substantial like this should be more than just a one-trick pony. Btw, I have no doubt in my mind that Sovol will try to make a splash with their own version of a giant printer in the next several months and it will likely be even better than this.
Sovol is a TRASH BRAND! I wasted $400+ on that stupid SV04 and it’s now non functional. It worked for only a couple prints then constantly had errors. BIGGEST buyers remorse I’ve ever had! This neptune 3 Max is about the same price and it might only print in one color but at least it’s not a headache like the Sovol branded printers.
@@boddlook If it broke after a couple of prints then it was still very early into its warranty period. Why didn't you try to make a claim? Literally any printer can break. They've all got their own issues.
Are there downsides to going big if you don't plan on using it for large prints? I mean, is the quality on small prints any different than the smaller Neptune 3 printers? The old adage 'you can never have too much/too big' usually holds true, and you should get the biggest you can afford because you always want more capabilities in the future, but does it apply here?
I can see at least one point that's a bit of a downside: it's a 'bedslinger' (it has to move the whole print bed around for movement in one of the axes), and at that size, having to slug around all the weight of the BIG bed kinda limits the possible max effective print speeds, even when you're doing only a small object on it...
Can we take a sec and apriciate the extruder cable having propper support to not break after 1-2 weeks like ender 3 S1 series do, due to reality saving 2-5cm of the cable support
Yes it has Klipper, nozzle is 0.4mm and custom designed (problem with replacements and bigger sizes), cable management looks not fixed, it has an all metal hotend with ceramic heating element and over 20mm3/s max volumetric flow.
Couldn't agree more to the improvements, a better hotend and heatbreak would be my first upgrades, especially the heatbreak just for the reason that i dont get surprise leaks out of nowhere. Your cable management idea is ingenious, i often use ptfe tubing for that. The creality cr m4 uses a drag chain, but im not a fan of that because you need really good wires for drag chains, otherwise your wires break
The way to stop wire breakage is to have a large radius in the bend of the drag chain, to acheive this you need a purpose made fixing point for the start of the drag chain and then design the rest of the machine around this, I dont think Creality did it this way!
@@AndrewAHayes the bending radius definitely looks larger than what a voron has, especially the smaller 250mm ones. Those have fairly tight radii, i removed the xy chains for reliability and i have a canbus setup, so there wouldn't even be a reason for drag chains. For z its a different story, way less travel
I just bought the Neptune 3 Max and my few prints so far went very well. I never printed ABS and I'm sure I never will because I use the (at least if you ask people who have tested it and have more material knowledge than I do) "better" ABS. I print with ASA. I printed ASA on this printer at 210°C (that is the recommended temperature to print from the manufacturer) with 100°C heat bed temperature and I had no problems with warping or bad layer adhesion. Nevertheless I want to change the nozzle for now to a 0.6mm, perhaps later on to a 0.8mm. I saw people complaining, that with a bigger nozzle the print cooling wouldn't work good enough anymore. Can you say something about that?
Great video! I'm deciding if i should buy this printer and i have a question. Is it possible to upgrade the hotend to a full metal one? I haven't found anything yet, for example Micro Swiss hasn't got a full metal hotend assembly for this printer yet
My red loctite heat break was not cut flush and allowed filament to ooze past it and the nozzle threads causing one hell of a mess that wasnt noticed until it was way too late. still got it apart, cold, with vice grips cause I wan't going to let that little heat break win lol. Good news is you can modify a sprite 300c heater upgrade kit (block, thermistor, heater, and nozzle) and use a cr10 bi metal heat break to make these 3 series better. the new firmware will let you put temps to 300c in your slicer as well.
To be honest I used just the original prusa profiles for my N3 Pro and it prints really really well, Just changed the start and end gcode but it wasnt even necessary. I can even print presliced gcode from printables But the point about no profiles from the manufacturer surely still stands
Marlin already supports inputshape but needs to be enabled by recompiling it urself..the elegoos marlin opensource and u can just downlaod sourcecode for their setups and i got extremely good support to modify it from elegoo itself. Now i have marlin(using the default screen)+ inputshaper and temp limit set to 300c...and only thing after that was PID tune. NOT FOR normal users but anyone that is even little tech savy can do it and i would say ...getting 420x420x500 fullmetal setup under 500bucks in total is damn good way to print PC or nylonreinforced materials like PA12GF15. OFC there is also possibility to CHT nozzle for extra 40bucks and u can print around 18-20mm/3 on 0.6mm nozzle and cause that marlin now i can run speeds of 180-250mm/s in 4-5k accelerations and have surpriced many that seen my neptune 3 max . madness at its finest and i would compare it as "more complete printer if planning to get ender 3 or cr10" as it isnt perfect from box but needs almost nothing extra compared to others XXL printers
Great review, you cover really important topics! I am just gonna say it... The one thing lacking for most of these companies is common sense lol. The fact that an enormous printer like this comes with a regular flow hotend and 0.4mm nozzle is a testament to that haha! :) Also the PTFE that goes right to the nozzle should be illegal at this point, there is absolutely no reason not to use all metal heatbeak.
Good Video - I have a Neptune 3 Max and a Longer lk5 Pro. Both are good printers but the Max prints bigger and faster. I would love to know what setting in Cura I would have to change if I installed a 0.6 nozzle, because I do have one but have no idea what to change, bit of a newbie. Oh, the cable on your printer isn't installed correctly, I did the same thing as you when I installed it the first time and yes, it dragged on the bed, reroute it to point up and you will never have that problem again.
Another great review Adam, I have seen a few reviews of this machine and the vast majority of your concerns were not in these reviews, Kudos for digging deep and having the savvy to notice these issues, I notice Creality announced their K (Klipper) series of printers the other day, I cant wait to see how they will have cocked this up LOL, I wonder if they will ship with the Creality stripped apart version of Klipper and be festooned with updates or do the sensible thing and just go stock, I read that someone had 1 hour and 15 minutes of updates to the Sonic Pad in just one day and over 20 mins of updates a week later to fix the previous updates, at least Creality are consistant in their cockups LOL
Seriously? At this price point you are way off. After owning over 10 printers this one blows everything away. Bravo to Elegoo!
Big printers are only practical for 0.5% percent of people(cosplay not included in that approximation). My voron 0.2(120 cubed) fits 98% of the parts i print, and the rest is printed on my ender 3v2(230x230x250).
I'd MUCH rather have an ender 3 neo, or something similar.
@@neayt9952 I would much rather live in an alternative dimension where Creality does not exist! LOL
@@AndrewAHayes i agree(kind off). I mean the ender 3 was a huge step in budget printers, but now creality only make unreliable stuff
@@neayt9952 C'mon it's not 0.5% that low. How could you make that bold estimation if the cosplayers community is already 20% of the 3D printer fan base?
@@Declopse that's my bad. I'm not into cosplay at all. Therefore I'm not participating in their communities and didn't know the sizes(just researched it. SCARY STUFF). I'll edit the comment
I love my stock Plus. Been thinking about the upgrades also.
If they were in stock I would buy one and upgrade things based onyour comments. I already have a SV03 so I kinda know the pitfalls
for real. they won't even take preorders. i got an sv06 plus so hopefully that size will satiate me for a while
Put TinkSeal lubricant on your extruder gear. Put it on one time and forget it. It will make both gears mesh smoother and last much longer.
I appreciate you bringing up its drawbacks, though I did feel a sense of relief at the end because they were mostly nitpicks. I did wish though that you'd offered a bit more technical analysis, like measuring its speed and using it for small and detailed objects. Not everyone has a printer for every day of the week, so something substantial like this should be more than just a one-trick pony. Btw, I have no doubt in my mind that Sovol will try to make a splash with their own version of a giant printer in the next several months and it will likely be even better than this.
Sovol is a TRASH BRAND! I wasted $400+ on that stupid SV04 and it’s now non functional. It worked for only a couple prints then constantly had errors. BIGGEST buyers remorse I’ve ever had! This neptune 3 Max is about the same price and it might only print in one color but at least it’s not a headache like the Sovol branded printers.
@@boddlook If it broke after a couple of prints then it was still very early into its warranty period. Why didn't you try to make a claim? Literally any printer can break. They've all got their own issues.
Are there downsides to going big if you don't plan on using it for large prints? I mean, is the quality on small prints any different than the smaller Neptune 3 printers? The old adage 'you can never have too much/too big' usually holds true, and you should get the biggest you can afford because you always want more capabilities in the future, but does it apply here?
I can see at least one point that's a bit of a downside: it's a 'bedslinger' (it has to move the whole print bed around for movement in one of the axes), and at that size, having to slug around all the weight of the BIG bed kinda limits the possible max effective print speeds, even when you're doing only a small object on it...
Input shaping is implemented in Marlin as well
Can we take a sec and apriciate the extruder cable having propper support to not break after 1-2 weeks like ender 3 S1 series do, due to reality saving 2-5cm of the cable support
What are your thoughts on the Creality CR M4 on paper, does it satisfy what you’ve mentioned in the wishlist for Neptune Max?
Pretty sure the Neptune 4 max already has klipper. I wonder if they addressed the nozzle size, cable management, and heartbreak design
Yes it has Klipper, nozzle is 0.4mm and custom designed (problem with replacements and bigger sizes), cable management looks not fixed, it has an all metal hotend with ceramic heating element and over 20mm3/s max volumetric flow.
Am at the moment trying to decide if to go with this or the plus
I can see why they're not stocking them again right now
Couldn't agree more to the improvements, a better hotend and heatbreak would be my first upgrades, especially the heatbreak just for the reason that i dont get surprise leaks out of nowhere. Your cable management idea is ingenious, i often use ptfe tubing for that. The creality cr m4 uses a drag chain, but im not a fan of that because you need really good wires for drag chains, otherwise your wires break
The way to stop wire breakage is to have a large radius in the bend of the drag chain, to acheive this you need a purpose made fixing point for the start of the drag chain and then design the rest of the machine around this, I dont think Creality did it this way!
@@AndrewAHayes the bending radius definitely looks larger than what a voron has, especially the smaller 250mm ones. Those have fairly tight radii, i removed the xy chains for reliability and i have a canbus setup, so there wouldn't even be a reason for drag chains. For z its a different story, way less travel
Think ABS would be an option with a giant enclosure and modified hotend?
I ordered this Printer two month ago. Delivery end of April. Cost Here in Germany 499 € at 3djake too.
Thoughts on the printer so far?
I just bought the Neptune 3 Max and my few prints so far went very well. I never printed ABS and I'm sure I never will because I use the (at least if you ask people who have tested it and have more material knowledge than I do) "better" ABS. I print with ASA. I printed ASA on this printer at 210°C (that is the recommended temperature to print from the manufacturer) with 100°C heat bed temperature and I had no problems with warping or bad layer adhesion.
Nevertheless I want to change the nozzle for now to a 0.6mm, perhaps later on to a 0.8mm. I saw people complaining, that with a bigger nozzle the print cooling wouldn't work good enough anymore. Can you say something about that?
Great video! I'm deciding if i should buy this printer and i have a question. Is it possible to upgrade the hotend to a full metal one? I haven't found anything yet, for example Micro Swiss hasn't got a full metal hotend assembly for this printer yet
My red loctite heat break was not cut flush and allowed filament to ooze past it and the nozzle threads causing one hell of a mess that wasnt noticed until it was way too late. still got it apart, cold, with vice grips cause I wan't going to let that little heat break win lol.
Good news is you can modify a sprite 300c heater upgrade kit (block, thermistor, heater, and nozzle) and use a cr10 bi metal heat break to make these 3 series better. the new firmware will let you put temps to 300c in your slicer as well.
will you test the latest marlin to see how the input shaping works?
if you want one they are in stock now
To be honest I used just the original prusa profiles for my N3 Pro and it prints really really well, Just changed the start and end gcode but it wasnt even necessary.
I can even print presliced gcode from printables
But the point about no profiles from the manufacturer surely still stands
Marlin already supports inputshape but needs to be enabled by recompiling it urself..the elegoos marlin opensource and u can just downlaod sourcecode for their setups and i got extremely good support to modify it from elegoo itself. Now i have marlin(using the default screen)+ inputshaper and temp limit set to 300c...and only thing after that was PID tune. NOT FOR normal users but anyone that is even little tech savy can do it and i would say ...getting 420x420x500 fullmetal setup under 500bucks in total is damn good way to print PC or nylonreinforced materials like PA12GF15. OFC there is also possibility to CHT nozzle for extra 40bucks and u can print around 18-20mm/3 on 0.6mm nozzle and cause that marlin now i can run speeds of 180-250mm/s in 4-5k accelerations and have surpriced many that seen my neptune 3 max . madness at its finest and i would compare it as "more complete printer if planning to get ender 3 or cr10" as it isnt perfect from box but needs almost nothing extra compared to others XXL printers
whats the pid problem after settong nozzle to 300 degree？
@@ruizhang9469 after firmware flash to support 300c temperatures...u need to PID tune the printer and u are ready to print at those temps
What respectable sites do you recommend getting your printing files from?
Printables is my favourite. Thangs is another option.
@@Vector3DP Thank you 👍👍
Amazing prints, mate👍🏽😊
Waiting for mine to ship. Great video. Great to know these things, as I am a newbie, printing on a Silhouette Alta+. Stop laughing.😅
what no rewiew of the prints> wah!!!
Cost me 3 euros to upgrade that hotend
Neptune 3 max or Kobra max?
Neptune 3 Max with modification i suggested. I've not used kobra max though.
Nice video. Made me laugh, thanks 😂
Apples for apples it's a fantastic printer
Great review, you cover really important topics! I am just gonna say it... The one thing lacking for most of these companies is common sense lol. The fact that an enormous printer like this comes with a regular flow hotend and 0.4mm nozzle is a testament to that haha! :) Also the PTFE that goes right to the nozzle should be illegal at this point, there is absolutely no reason not to use all metal heatbeak.
there is a flexibles preform much better with ptfe
It comes down to price I gather, this is a budget model
are you sure that's not graphite or molybdenum on the gear lmao
why ask if they don't have what they sell this store sucks
Typical junk we have seen for years. Similar to Kobra Max. Upgrades need.
Im the first!!
Ive been having problems with the z level change not being responsive enough and fucking my prints