Hi Shelley, I found the Best (RUST REMOVER) was Swafega Metal Cleaner & Restorer, that B&Q used to sell, I acid dipped ever panel of my car in that and all came out clean silver steel, after 24 hours or 48 hours in the acid, depending on amount of rust on the panel, anything that was thin, or pitted was replaced with a new panel. Converters just put a black or purple layer on top of heavy rust that you can paint over, Good Rust "Removers" do just that, by dissolving all the rust, and leave silver steel, any black patches in the metal is still rust in the steel, (the beginnings of the rust process) any panels on my Mk3 which had that I just fitted a new old stock perfect acid dipped panel, that was clean silver steel, thus my restoration had at current prices over £8,000 worth of new old stock genuine Ford Panels, Hammerite Green Jell works very well, but you need to keep working it, rubbing with wire wool, metal brush or scourer, and wipe away and re apply, if you just leave it on it will not work as fast and still needs multi coats, I enjoyed your video, always great to see a fellow Mk3 enthusiast working on his car.
Thanks Keith, Yep in hindsight, i think the Hammerite actually did best as in exposing the most bare clean steel. Fertan works if you remove all the black converted rust (which Fertan say isnt required). I guess it makes it easier to scrape off and I would recommend it as some of the black areas left by the Fertan were very loose and I'd not be happy priming over that. I'm now on the cross member and am dipping in Hammerite - looking forward to seeing the results!
Long time no see Shelley nice to see your still at and the new workshop looks cool . Check out Dave’s garage he did a test on primers I can’t remember what sort but I believe surprisingly the best in a physical test was Halfords . Helaft them all outside for ages and the Halfords shone through. Anyway have a look if you have a minute it’s interesting 👍
I liked that. Surprised to see the weld thru winning hands down. I asked Upol about using it as a regular primer and they did not recommend, saying it does not have the best adhesion to further coats. I have used it on my floor pan (interior) which then spent a further year outside, and it has held up really well just like Dave's. @cortinaman63 also recommends it
I have a few panels already on order from Expressed and so this was a cost saving job. I also need some of the cross member whih i think i can save now 🙂
Expressed Steel Panels do make a brand new Front Valance, which is an exact copy of the original Genuine Ford Panel, current price is £410.15p plus vat and P+P, Expensive but the best way to ensure a car is 100% perfect, My Mk3 Restoration has had over £8,000 worth of new panels at current prices, and Shelley sadly will not have that kind of budget for his 2000E, to get a perfect 100% rust free and painted shell, that is factory correct would cost around £47,000, and a concourse "finished car" as brand new around £50.000, (with part Professional work and part done by the owner), or around £70.000, for a full (Professional build) .
Definitely had a new outer valance,should come apart ok. Good to see a bit of progress. Hope you can get a fair bit done over winter👍
Hi Shelley, I found the Best (RUST REMOVER) was Swafega Metal Cleaner & Restorer, that B&Q used to sell, I acid dipped ever panel of my car in that and all came out clean silver steel, after 24 hours or 48 hours in the acid, depending on amount of rust on the panel, anything that was thin, or pitted was replaced with a new panel.
Converters just put a black or purple layer on top of heavy rust that you can paint over, Good Rust "Removers" do just that, by dissolving all the rust, and leave silver steel, any black patches in the metal is still rust in the steel, (the beginnings of the rust process) any panels on my Mk3 which had that I just fitted a new old stock perfect acid dipped panel, that was clean silver steel, thus my restoration had at current prices over £8,000 worth of new old stock genuine Ford Panels,
Hammerite Green Jell works very well, but you need to keep working it, rubbing with wire wool, metal brush or scourer, and wipe away and re apply, if you just leave it on it will not work as fast and still needs multi coats, I enjoyed your video, always great to see a fellow Mk3 enthusiast working on his car.
Thanks Keith, Yep in hindsight, i think the Hammerite actually did best as in exposing the most bare clean steel. Fertan works if you remove all the black converted rust (which Fertan say isnt required). I guess it makes it easier to scrape off and I would recommend it as some of the black areas left by the Fertan were very loose and I'd not be happy priming over that.
I'm now on the cross member and am dipping in Hammerite - looking forward to seeing the results!
I tend to stick to bilt hammer, hydrate 80. Used it for a few years now and never had a problem.
Long time no see Shelley nice to see your still at and the new workshop looks cool . Check out Dave’s garage he did a test on primers I can’t remember what sort but I believe surprisingly the best in a physical test was Halfords . Helaft them all outside for ages and the Halfords shone through. Anyway have a look if you have a minute it’s interesting 👍
I liked that. Surprised to see the weld thru winning hands down. I asked Upol about using it as a regular primer and they did not recommend, saying it does not have the best adhesion to further coats. I have used it on my floor pan (interior) which then spent a further year outside, and it has held up really well just like Dave's. @cortinaman63 also recommends it
£230 ex VAT front valances on Expressed depending on your budget vs time. Great viewing though thanks. Mac from Stafford in a 71 mk3
I have a few panels already on order from Expressed and so this was a cost saving job. I also need some of the cross member whih i think i can save now 🙂
Hi Shelley! Nice rescue (as I’m assuming a new heritage panel is not available for that part?)
Expressed Steel Panels do make a brand new Front Valance, which is an exact copy of the original Genuine Ford Panel, current price is £410.15p plus vat and P+P, Expensive but the best way to ensure a car is 100% perfect, My Mk3 Restoration has had over £8,000 worth of new panels at current prices, and Shelley sadly will not have that kind of budget for his 2000E, to get a perfect 100% rust free and painted shell, that is factory correct would cost around £47,000, and a concourse "finished car" as brand new around £50.000, (with part Professional work and part done by the owner), or around £70.000, for a full (Professional build) .
@@Cortinaman63 are they selling for that sort of money now??
Ye i saw that - I'm running low on funds (isn't everyone!) at the moment and so i though this second hand front end would be a good challenge
@@ShelleysCortina definitely! 🙏🎅🏼👍