Wow suzan🎉s got some boogie haha. The paint an body, the whole rig looks awesome scaling around the canyon. If you do try a different outfit I'm sure its gonna be just as rad.
Just got my Zoku today for my 4-10 RTR. It's all put together minus the micro servos.I ordered the wrong horns. Excited to see the difference in stock! Your channel is the reason I bought the Zoku!
I've looked through countless pages of listings trying to find any 1.9 tire that is distributed under the Injora name and looks even remotely like a BFG. Nothing. KLRs, KLR/Ms, Canyon Trails, tons of Hyrax, the usual suspects. But I can't find any other tire that looks like a BFG KM3.
I do love how it looks. Maybe I'll compromise and just get rid of the obnoxious bumper. The departure angle isn't bad, breakover is pretty good, but the approach is terrible. He might be one of the worst here thanks to that bumper.
These are real nice rails from Zuko. Can't get them in Europe though. I think I'm gonna copy these from my build. Was gonna make something from scratch, but maybe better to start from a Phoenix (not yet sure portal or not). Two more questions 😀: 1) how do you calculate CG 2) what does underdamped mean and how do you solve it Greetz, Erwin.
1. Go right here: th-cam.com/video/6vz8nU4mxX4/w-d-xo.html 2. Underdamped means there's not enough damping in the shocks to slow the motion of the sprung weight. So one end of the rig my pitch or roll too much, which is you know... undesirable. Overdamped won't allow the damper to cycle quickly enough, so you can get "suspension hop," as the tires load and unload due to the damper cycling too slowly. If things that go fast, it's genuinely easier to find the right weight oil, because you're basically just trying to counteract the spring action; that is, the rate of the spring and the weight of the oil are related. Rate goes up, weight goes up. Crawlers almost treat rate and weight independently-- we're trying to damp the sprung weight, and all the springs are doing is trying to keep the shocks from bottoming out. Did you contact Zoku about shipping to Europe? When I was heavy into making Toyota/Scion parts, I shipped to Australia a couple of times despite the shipping cost being 5-6x as much, just so I would know somewhere in my lizard brain that there are cars in Australia with my parts in them.
If I recall, this was an accidental likeness to the frankenstrat. If you do another, it could be a bit more intentional though I know you've said you don't like a red base color. The more I see of the Zoku chassis, the more tempted I get to try one for my portal kit
The chassis is so good. I really need to get to tuning Eddie more, but I just ordered a BOCO F10 link riser from 1TenthRC, so I'm putting off tuning until I get that. That, and waiting around for the April money from Google so I can blow it on micro servos, which is a difficult thing for a person that generally doesn't like micro servos.
Would you mind sharing how do you determine the CG on your rigs. And, where do you like to be at? I figure straight and portals shod be different. Thank you
You're gonna need four scales. th-cam.com/video/6vz8nU4mxX4/w-d-xo.html In most instances, portals will raise the CGH by the exact amount of lift brought by the portals (say a Phoenix straight and Phoenix portal, outfitted identically) but more often than not it's a reasonable trade-- the increased ground clearance (usually) more than offsets the loss of sidehill at the extreme.
So which way would you go with the top shock position to keep the weight from loading up the rear? I have a similar problem with my rig ( trx4 79 bronco) with Amazon 110’s in rear 90 weight oil top of shock in forward most hole.
My first inclination would be to say that the oil is too heavy and you're overdamped, but then I remember we're talking about Amazon shocks, and some of those need +200wt to function properly. So instead I have a lot of questions: why 110 in the rear? What's being run in the front? Stock link positions and lengths? What spring rates (if known) front and rear? I'm guessing the front is underdamped relative to the rear, and/or has too stiff of a spring rate, so as soon as the nose goes up, the weight falls to the rear axle-- kinda like what I was getting. Standing the rear shock up more vertically will soften the effective rate, so I'd start with moving the shock to vertical and see how the stiffer rear reacts to the weight transfer.
110 in rear for more flex plus I’m running 2.2 super swamper in front and boggers in rear, (got the idea when tyranny hunks in front and holds in rear), works great. I add 5mm longer shock rod ends to the stock Traxxas 90 mm shocks to fit tires better. I have rear shocks in forward most positions at top , so I will take ur advice and try moving them back a hole and then try different oil. Thanks for the response.👍🏻
Eddies body stays, the Deep Woods can go though. I think with the slightly shorter wheelbase he'd look better with a skinnier looking tire. Something like Tusks, Hunks, Fossils maybe. Since he needs more forward drive but has a plethora of side-hill ability I wonder if he could pull off Holds on all 4 corners?
But the nomes in the blue hats took my scale hub, now I gotta chase em down, and negotiate to get my own stuff back... No more anti dive. Definitely anti squat, in the rear(perhaps a touch less transfer that way?) I still run a sway bar on my ascender so I don't do the twistypoo all the way up the hill.
This might be the perfect opportunity to try one of the F10 link risers from 1TenthRC. A link riser made a world of difference on Ms. Direction, who had a similar weight transfer issue.
I like Eddies camper body. It’s obnoxious in a great way. and would gives a guy like me an excuse for making mistakes. Plus if you really dial it in and Yellow makes fun of him because of his big boodie. He can just tell Yellow images what I could do if I had a slim boodie like you!
This guy needs way more subscribers! His content is very very good if you like to crawl.
From your mouth to the algorithm's ears. I'm feeding it as many videos as I can!
Eddie is so nice - so smooth and planted now- and i trust you will tune it even more- great video
please do not change Eddie's body -
I’ve always had big monster trucks like the Kraton. X max but the scale trucks and crawlers are vastly becoming and addiction lol. So much fun 🪨
8:19 90s rave flashback, thanks for that!
Heyyyyy happpy Monday Mr canyon. Hope the weekend was long enough 😎 lol.
YES! Give him the body he deserves!
You gotta keep that body man it looks so good
Keep the body!!
Wow suzan🎉s got some boogie haha. The paint an body, the whole rig looks awesome scaling around the canyon. If you do try a different outfit I'm sure its gonna be just as rad.
Just got my Zoku today for my 4-10 RTR. It's all put together minus the micro servos.I ordered the wrong horns. Excited to see the difference in stock! Your channel is the reason I bought the Zoku!
Also you should try the ROCK Crawlers from INJORAl. They are gerat almost carbon copies of the BFG's. They work great with crawle inovations 2 stages.
I've looked through countless pages of listings trying to find any 1.9 tire that is distributed under the Injora name and looks even remotely like a BFG. Nothing. KLRs, KLR/Ms, Canyon Trails, tons of Hyrax, the usual suspects. But I can't find any other tire that looks like a BFG KM3.
Consider Eddie's body a sacrifice to vanity.
I do love how it looks. Maybe I'll compromise and just get rid of the obnoxious bumper. The departure angle isn't bad, breakover is pretty good, but the approach is terrible. He might be one of the worst here thanks to that bumper.
These are real nice rails from Zuko. Can't get them in Europe though. I think I'm gonna copy these from my build. Was gonna make something from scratch, but maybe better to start from a Phoenix (not yet sure portal or not).
Two more questions 😀:
1) how do you calculate CG
2) what does underdamped mean and how do you solve it
Greetz, Erwin.
1. Go right here: th-cam.com/video/6vz8nU4mxX4/w-d-xo.html
2. Underdamped means there's not enough damping in the shocks to slow the motion of the sprung weight. So one end of the rig my pitch or roll too much, which is you know... undesirable. Overdamped won't allow the damper to cycle quickly enough, so you can get "suspension hop," as the tires load and unload due to the damper cycling too slowly. If things that go fast, it's genuinely easier to find the right weight oil, because you're basically just trying to counteract the spring action; that is, the rate of the spring and the weight of the oil are related. Rate goes up, weight goes up. Crawlers almost treat rate and weight independently-- we're trying to damp the sprung weight, and all the springs are doing is trying to keep the shocks from bottoming out.
Did you contact Zoku about shipping to Europe? When I was heavy into making Toyota/Scion parts, I shipped to Australia a couple of times despite the shipping cost being 5-6x as much, just so I would know somewhere in my lizard brain that there are cars in Australia with my parts in them.
If I recall, this was an accidental likeness to the frankenstrat. If you do another, it could be a bit more intentional though I know you've said you don't like a red base color. The more I see of the Zoku chassis, the more tempted I get to try one for my portal kit
The chassis is so good. I really need to get to tuning Eddie more, but I just ordered a BOCO F10 link riser from 1TenthRC, so I'm putting off tuning until I get that.
That, and waiting around for the April money from Google so I can blow it on micro servos, which is a difficult thing for a person that generally doesn't like micro servos.
@@CrawlerCanyon did you add this link for your latest video on Eddie? I don't remember you mentioning it?
Eddie can now join the ranks of "crawler" in the canyon fleet, keep the body take the cannoli! 😅
Would you mind sharing how do you determine the CG on your rigs. And, where do you like to be at?
I figure straight and portals shod be different. Thank you
You're gonna need four scales. th-cam.com/video/6vz8nU4mxX4/w-d-xo.html
In most instances, portals will raise the CGH by the exact amount of lift brought by the portals (say a Phoenix straight and Phoenix portal, outfitted identically) but more often than not it's a reasonable trade-- the increased ground clearance (usually) more than offsets the loss of sidehill at the extreme.
@@CrawlerCanyon Thank you for the link. I’ve been following you for a while and truly enjoy your content. I missed the one on the CG.
Thanks again
I'm a big fan of the body. I'd say keep it.
I think if I had set this up as a poll it would be unanimous. The body stays.
That bumper has GOTTA go, though.
👍👍😁😁
So which way would you go with the top shock position to keep the weight from loading up the rear?
I have a similar problem with my rig ( trx4 79 bronco) with Amazon 110’s in rear 90 weight oil top of shock in forward most hole.
My first inclination would be to say that the oil is too heavy and you're overdamped, but then I remember we're talking about Amazon shocks, and some of those need +200wt to function properly. So instead I have a lot of questions: why 110 in the rear? What's being run in the front? Stock link positions and lengths? What spring rates (if known) front and rear?
I'm guessing the front is underdamped relative to the rear, and/or has too stiff of a spring rate, so as soon as the nose goes up, the weight falls to the rear axle-- kinda like what I was getting. Standing the rear shock up more vertically will soften the effective rate, so I'd start with moving the shock to vertical and see how the stiffer rear reacts to the weight transfer.
110 in rear for more flex plus I’m running 2.2 super swamper in front and boggers in rear, (got the idea when tyranny hunks in front and holds in rear), works great.
I add 5mm longer shock rod ends to the stock Traxxas 90 mm shocks to fit tires better.
I have rear shocks in forward most positions at top , so I will take ur advice and try moving them back a hole and then try different oil.
Thanks for the response.👍🏻
I very much like Eddy's current body, better send it to me if you don't want it anymore because it's one of the best looks wise for me.
Eddies body stays, the Deep Woods can go though. I think with the slightly shorter wheelbase he'd look better with a skinnier looking tire. Something like Tusks, Hunks, Fossils maybe. Since he needs more forward drive but has a plethora of side-hill ability I wonder if he could pull off Holds on all 4 corners?
Something like a Vanquish Falken Wildpeak might be worth trying. The tires are good, but I agree that they don't fully suit Eddie.
But the nomes in the blue hats took my scale hub, now I gotta chase em down, and negotiate to get my own stuff back...
No more anti dive.
Definitely anti squat, in the rear(perhaps a touch less transfer that way?)
I still run a sway bar on my ascender so I don't do the twistypoo all the way up the hill.
This might be the perfect opportunity to try one of the F10 link risers from 1TenthRC. A link riser made a world of difference on Ms. Direction, who had a similar weight transfer issue.
@@CrawlerCanyon yeah buddy, may be the hot ticket (your doing way to much science to get there, but I appreciate the thuroghness)
You should make a axle slide 🛝
I’ve no love for the body. But it does match his name, so it’s hard to say
IF you do axe Eddie's body I call dibbs please! 😁
I like Eddies camper body. It’s obnoxious in a great way. and would gives a guy like me an excuse for making mistakes.
Plus if you really dial it in and Yellow makes fun of him because of his big boodie. He can just tell Yellow images what I could do if I had a slim boodie like you!
I say keep the body. Not all rigs need to be an LCG/cheater. He can be in the same class as Bill
No...please don't get rid of Eddie's body
Hey man don’t say “Traxxas” or they might sue you