What are your opinions on using 420ss, or 17-4, or I have access to 4140 pre hardened and d2, I work in a tool room so I have access to a wire edm and milling machines. So as you guessed i wouldn’t be a real knife maker but I just want to make a small 4-5” small game skinning knife like the benchmade flyway. Thought about also using some spring steel so it would almost be like a boning knife.
It really depends on the thickness of the blank and how wide you want the bevel to be. I use a scrap pc of wood scribed to correct thickness and adjust table angle until desired bevel with is achieved.
I put links in the description. Here is link to 9 inch blank bergknifemaking.com/collections/knife-making/products/stainless-universal-knife-blank-9-inch
Unfortunately you have to have very accurate time and temp control when heat treating stainless steel. Forge will ket up to temp but you really need a heat treating oven or to send blank out for heat treating
@@DIYeasycrafts Yeah its the " Soak " time, I have a Thermal Drone to tell temp. What if you could temper @ 300* would that compensate for the lower heat treat?
@@robertkoontz7865 I have never even attempted to heat treat stainless in a forge so can not give you an honest answer. Tempering is going to slightly reduce hardness. I would check hardness after hardening and adjust temper based on results. If your going to attempt it try inserting the blank into a piece of steel square stock. You should still get up to temperature but it will distribute the heat a little more uniformly.
@@DIYeasycrafts unfortunately I think this metal is so rare in my country. Which another stainless steel do you suggest for knif and all sword kinds and air rifle? Please answer my question Thanks 🙏
I use the stock removal method. I choose this over the forge because it allows me to use Stainless Steel rather than high carbon steel. End results is a knife that can be used daily and not rust. Both methods are really knife making and both have pros and cons.
Dude, what a video! answered about 100 of my questions. Big thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for all the good info. I have implemented much of it to my benefit .
Thanks Jeff
Thanks for the video.... made me realize what kinda prep it would take to try and make a buckmaster 185.... I probably should just buy one.
Instablaster
How does this guy not have a million subs?
I wish I had the answer to that one !!!!
4:19 I call it "spinning death blade"! :)
What are your opinions on using 420ss, or 17-4, or I have access to 4140 pre hardened and d2, I work in a tool room so I have access to a wire edm and milling machines. So as you guessed i wouldn’t be a real knife maker but I just want to make a small 4-5” small game skinning knife like the benchmade flyway. Thought about also using some spring steel so it would almost be like a boning knife.
Nice
Thanks
Sir are you interested in knife
What angle do you set the tilt table Mr Berg?
It really depends on the thickness of the blank and how wide you want the bevel to be. I use a scrap pc of wood scribed to correct thickness and adjust table angle until desired bevel with is achieved.
@@DIYeasycrafts I tried setting approx 5-7deg tilt but never seems to get the bevel right. Maybe I'll try the scrap wood method. Thanks, Mr Berg.
Very nice 9" how do I find out about buying one
I put links in the description. Here is link to 9 inch blank bergknifemaking.com/collections/knife-making/products/stainless-universal-knife-blank-9-inch
Hi Dan, Another helpful video, Can't a gas forge get up to 2000 deg. for AEBL? Thanks; B.K.
Unfortunately you have to have very accurate time and temp control when heat treating stainless steel. Forge will ket up to temp but you really need a heat treating oven or to send blank out for heat treating
@@DIYeasycrafts Yeah its the " Soak " time, I have a Thermal Drone to tell temp. What if you could temper @ 300* would that compensate for the lower heat treat?
@@robertkoontz7865 I have never even attempted to heat treat stainless in a forge so can not give you an honest answer. Tempering is going to slightly reduce hardness. I would check hardness after hardening and adjust temper based on results. If your going to attempt it try inserting the blank into a piece of steel square stock. You should still get up to temperature but it will distribute the heat a little more uniformly.
What is your stainless steel kind?
I use AEB-L stainless
@@DIYeasycrafts thanks Alot
I love stainless steel.
@@DIYeasycrafts unfortunately I think this metal is so rare in my country.
Which another stainless steel do you suggest for knif and all sword kinds and air rifle?
Please answer my question
Thanks
🙏
You are not really making a knife. You are assembling a model. Forge a knife, you will respect yourself in the morning.
Forge On!!!
I use the stock removal method. I choose this over the forge because it allows me to use Stainless Steel rather than high carbon steel. End results is a knife that can be used daily and not rust. Both methods are really knife making and both have pros and cons.