Thanks for the video. Just finished mine. Here’s my tip for pressing out the driver side bushing if it’s stuck. Remove the washer from under the nut. Thread the nut back on a couple turns. Pull the rack away from frame and jam a block of wood in the gap. Now you can tighten the nut and it will extract the bushing about half way before bolt threads bottom out. This only works because the nut will fit through the hole. Back the nut off (std socket fits inside the hole). I was then able to just remove the bushing the rest of the way by hand.
Just did this bushing swap this afternoon. That horizontal bushing really tests a persons patience! I didn’t think it would ever move. Also, I had to use a breaker bar on all four bolts/nuts to get them loose. Getting the bolts lined up after changing the bushing was made easier with a pry bar wedged between the rack and the transmission. Thanks for your video!
Thank you, you performed this repair with the knowledge and tools that every driveway/garage mechanic has, just ordered the kit and lube for my 2006 Tundra. Time to tighten up the steering after 222K miles. Keep up the great work.
The 123 torque spec for 19mms and 86 for 22mm is correct for OEM specs. I struggled with getting the center part free and taking off the drivers wheel made it come free with ease. I did this with the front end jacked up for ease of movement. Thank you for doing this video. Made a big difference.
Thanks brother. Always easier to see someone else do it before trying myself! Glad it only took me a few hours, mostly trying to dig out the old bushing!
Thanks for taking the time to show your work. However, putting grease on the bushing is not beneficial. Grease helps things move and not remain stationary. This bracket bushing is meant to grip and clamp down the steering rack to frame w/o movement. Thus preventing rack from sliding side to side. Adding grease could lead to prematurely doing the job again sometime down the road. When rack's body is pitted with rust, paint the rack with a good rust preventative paint instead. Por-15 makes good product for that
Directly from the directions for these bushings "Coat the inside and outside of the new rack bushings with a generous amount of grease. Slide the bushing halves into their proper locations on the rack. Insert the inner sleeves into the rack bushings. Use a mallet to tap them in until flush with the bushing. "
Just tackled this job, I have a ghetto press/puller made from some threaded rod, nuts and washers combined with sockets or what ever I can get my hands on to make it work. It made getting the old bushings out a piece of cake. Thanks for making this video so I knew what I was getting myself into. It was a relatively straightforward job.
I changed my bushings, 2004 RWD. I decided to drill out some of the rubber in the bushings. That worked well, they came out fairly easy. Still, I don't think this is a job for a newbie, it took some shrewd veteran moves to do this job on the street in front of my house. I used MOOG parts, which I think are also polyurethane. They were very firm, not rubber-like, more like plastic, and fit perfectly. Your video gave me the confidence to do it, thank you again. It is cool that you are a Tundra aficionado, as am I.
Awesome!! Thanks I realized my steering was a bit dodgy had someone turn the wheel while I was underneath and Bingo! Great video and instructions the manual states: 96 ft lbs on left, 123 center and 123 right. Took about 1.5 hours, raise it up does help as the wheels can turn as you move the rack
Very helpful video, just did mine in about an hour. Having the front wheels off the ground was a big help. I had a little trouble getting the center bushing to move back far enough, but grabbed the rear of the left front tire, pulled it inward while prying, and it moved far enough. Having a ball joint press made removing the old bushings quick and easy.
Hey guys, first off XLNT video. Just finished mine. I found that if you use a long handled Punch, you can torque the metal bushing side-to-side while squirting lube. That got the rubber bushing well lubricated and popped right out. I thought the author used too much assembly grease. That was until I tried to get mine installed. Lube it up, makes it a lot easier. I torqued all bolts to 100.
Thank you for sharing. I need to replace the steering rack of my 2005 Tundra due to leak of the fluid, I just had known from other video that it would be better to replace the bushing as well.
I put this off because I was broke, ended up cracking the welds on the crossmember bracket when I hit a pothole. (the bracket in question is at 3:00 just to the right of the bushing.) had to get it welded and luckily I found a place that could do it. Technically this might be a "frame repair" which many shops wont touch with a 10 foot pole.
3:30...i jus wanna share something thru my personal experience regarding this generation sequoia. Keep in mind these had flaws & did have recalls on the chassis. Anyways, the mounting surface that this piece mounts to ripped right off the frame/chassis crossmember 6 months after i replaced my rack bushings. So might wanna consider frame strapping(reinforcement).....talk to a welder......idk just wanted to share. It is a safety issue. Its not a nice feeling when it breaks away while driving on freeway. 🤙🏽
My truck is a NY truck. Throw out all the rules. Few hours of foul language and I got very little done. Could not get top bolt to budge. Could not even get a socket on the bolt. No room to tap up there... No room for leverage. I was hoping to change my bushings (shot) before the rack rotted too bad under the right bushing. The upper line was leaking. Amazingly it came right off and leak is resolved. Welcome to NY. Truck is in great shape otherwise. If it holds off from leaking until spring I will tackle it again. I may cut the welded bolt off the bottom and drive the bolt up, then replace the bolt and nut. I have no idea why the nut is welded anyway. Even if the nut falls off the bolt would never fall out. And I have been getting underside coated annually and have been spraying the area since the first time I saw the condition of the rack. Great video BTW. Thank you. Gave me high hopes with low expectations lol
Well, that doesn't sound fun at all. I hope you're able to get it done in spring without too much trouble. Mine is still holding up great after this repair. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
My Indiana Tacoma also had a lot of rot around the right-side D-shape bushing. I scaled away at some of it wit ha screwdriver to look for any holes but did not find any. Luckily if it is leaking at all it's only a very slow leak.
Did you try to use propane to put some heat on the bolt or one of those mechanic heat guns? Heat usually helps to get those bolts out. I've used this method successfully.
You know what...this maybe my issue. The mechanic couldnt do a front end alignment because of excessive play and said I need a new rack and pinion. Im gonna check. Thanks for a good legit vid. Re Manufacturered R n P's usually have issues, so I found a new one by Cardone for $560 at a couple more Hundred. OEM's are 900-$1200.
Does the cardone rack work well? I replaced mine with an A-premium rack and it was a mistake, now my sequoia wants to wander all over the place on the highway & I might need another new rack :(
i took my time but very doable, bushings on my 2006 tundra were in bad shape so they came out with finger, passenger side d bracket top bolt was stuck bad, realized it extends out in back, had to spray PB in back too, came out in 2 sec, used grease for new bushings, putting back rack and lining up with hole was hard, definitely need pry bar
Thanks! Great video. No rust on your undercarriage! Gotta replace the whole rack AND the bushings because mine rusted through RIGHT where you scraped the rust off of your rack. Salt kills.
Thinking of doing this on my 02 sequoia. I’ve literally never done a car repair other than replacing light bulbs 😬. How did the repair go for you? Also what did it feel like before replacing? Mine looks like it needs to be replaced, leaking fluid, and brakes plus told me it needed to be done. But I’m just not sure I’ve felt anything. Thanks.
Wow, thought he was going to replace the entire rack and pinion. That’s what brakes plus told me I needed l. Any idea how to know if I need the whole thing replaced or just the bushings?
Thanks for the video. I am going to have to do this myself and was wondering if it could be done without removing the rack & pinion from the truck. I'll just have to be careful with the lines.
We’re you able to do it without moving the rack.I don’t know how you could get the bushing out since it has a lip on the side that faces the rack. Let me know. Scott
My 2006 tundra DC sometime makes a weird sound if you're going up a hill and making a sharp turn just sound like a thump coming from the front I checked lower and upper ball joints good replaced sway bar bushings so they're good maybe I will try this next it's been doing it for years it would be great if this fixed it.
No problem, I don't think it's necessary to get the wheels off the ground, but it might be easier if they are off the ground in case you have to shift the rack a little bit to get everything lined up. Best of luck to you. -Dan
About to buy energy suspension bushings because I just had my mechanic replace my bushings with the dorman brand and in less then 6 months there is one that completely ripped out the sleeve
I used a small bottle jack, after it was un bolted, to lift the rack up a little, before I pulled it away from the cross member. I did not need to remove the tie rod.
I'm assuming my 04 Tacoma is basically the same. I bought this truck new in 04. My bushings are shot. I live in the high desert near Big Bend National Park in Texas. I'm 150 miles from a lift or mechanic. What risk I'm I taking for me and others driving that far? Watching your video makes me think I can do this by ordering parts. Any feedback would be appreciated. AND thanks for the video it made it possible for me to understand what I was dealing with. ( Stock vs aftermarket parts? Recommendations ? Again thank you in advance.
since going up tyre size in my navara and lifting it at 150 000km the steering is feeling a bit shit. Never even thought about bushing on steering. Its a cheap upgrade as well so most people should do it on any large car over 100 000km.
These racks for Tundras and Sequoias have a notorious rust issue with the rack itself as they age. At 5:15 your video demonstrates the very spot it will develop a leak. I think the degradation of the big bushing is a result of the rust, vibration, and abrasion from the rack. You fixed this customer's steering play, but the rack WILL leak. May not be in a year, may not be in two years, but it will continue to rust and eventually leak at that very spot. I've tried sanding and painting over that spot with no success. I have two 1st gen Sequoias with the rusty rack problem, but interestingly, my older and newer Toyotas do not have any rust on the rack.
I am sure you are correct in that it will eventually leak. I am hoping that it will last for a while longer. It’s been over 3 years since I did this, and it hasn’t leaked yet, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. This repair was on my personal truck btw. I am hoping that maybe the Sil-Glyde grease on that area has slowed down the rust… I will update the description if/when I see a leak or have to replace the rack. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan I 100% agree about the rust causing an unrepairable hole and a leak in rack at the big U-bracket. I think what happens is the classic valve cover leak deteriorates the bushing at the U-bracket, then dirt and grit get in and wear the paint and the then the worn bushings let the grit grind away until you have the unrepairable leak. Moral of the story is….keep up on the weepy valve cover gaskets. Not all oil leaks act as rust preventatives….
Just my uneducated opinion, but I can’t see a reason to realign the front end. The wheels/tires are aligned in relation to one another, not in relation to the rack. Regardless of where the rack is now sitting, the wheels are still aligned in relation to each other if you didn’t mess with the tie rod ends. Thanks for the great video! 👍 I’m walking outside right now to tackle this on my ‘04 Double Cab.
You are welcome, I’m using the 1/2” high torque 2767 model in this video, but I also have the 3/8” 2960 now. They are both very nice. Take care, -Dan the Fix It Man
Question I have a 2019 Toyota Tundra sr5 i only have 25000 miles I have a big problem with my steering wheel I feel like the steering wheel is gonna come of my hand it feel like the truck has no stability at all when you move the steering wheel from left to right it feels like a old truck I have taken it to the dealership 3 times and they tell me it’s normal I don’t think a brand new truck should feel like that. I have a 2014 Scion xB and it doesn’t even feel a bit like that that car has 75000 miles on it and that steering wheel is nice and tight . Any suggestions on what you think it might be I’m thinking about doing the lemon law on it
Since i dont have the tools or knowledge on how to do it myself , would it be cheaper to just have a shop replace the Rack and put the better bushinhs in?
Having a really hard time getting the rack off of the center bushing. Tried lining up the inside of the bushing like the video mentioned. I lubed it with some silicone spray too, still no luck. Any ideas? Do I have to get the wheels off the ground? I have a lift so there's plenty of room underneath. Would disconnecting a tie rod end help? Never worked on a truck with rack&pinion steering before.
Hi Cameron, That’s exactly what I had trouble with too. Once I put a screwdriver up inside the metal inner sleeve, I was able to pry it and make it straight enough to come out. It was locked in place until I did that. Hope that will work for you too. Some people who have done this job said that it was easier for them to disconnect one of the tie rod ends, and maybe lifting the wheels off the ground would make it easier as well. Please let us know how it goes. Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@mikevortex it stopped wandering on the freeway, even though it was very mild. Feels like how you would expect. Smooth and confident. No more clunk when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the side any more.
You do good work but I am going to use break fluid for assembly lube because it dries fast and it seems like grease attracts dirt, causes premature wear and ends up squeaky anyway but more than one way to skin a cat. also I’m a big anti seize fan and to anyone in the rust belt should anti seize the bolts. Thanks for the video.
That’s possible. I would get underneath and take a look while someone turns the wheel to see if you can tell where the noise is coming from, or at least inspect the bushings. Thanks for watching! Best of luck to you. -Dan the Fix it Man
Hi Jacob, The old worn out soft bushings were causing the entire steering rack to wander and have excessive play. The new bushings fixed this and made the steering feel much more responsive. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@cojojacobs3538 I'm about to do this job, and I was wondering if I have to lift both wheels. As I don't have two jacks, you reply solve my question. Thanks, man!
good job, however grease and rubber not a good idea because the grease will softer the rubber, if you need to lubricate any rubber material use Brake Fluid, brake fluis won't harm rubber all the component in the brake system used it
@@DantheFixitMan how do I know if I have to replace the entire rack and pinion or just the bushings? Brakes plus just told me I need all new rack and pinion (and front and rear strut assembly and lower control arm) but I’m now wondering if I just need new bushings for the rack and pinion. Thanks a TON!
Hi Chuck, Sorry to get back to you so late. I think it was just moving them in general I really didn't think I was too forceful or anything like that. They didn't seem to be very tight from the factory, so I just tightened them and it stopped the leak. Fortunately, it hasn't leaked at all since then. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
I cannot get the center bolt to line up. I have tried everything. I got all the bushings in fine. Now the center is not aligning by a hair. Got the other sides in. I tried to do the center first, wasn't happening, HELP PLEASE!?
Having this same issue. The video was extremely helpful but I’m just stuck at the center bushing. Cannot get the rack to line back up perfectly to slide the bolt in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, I did also change them before I had done this job. If I remember correctly, they were pretty inexpensive and they were easy to change. I had also upgraded them to polyurethane. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
anyone have any knocking after replacing these? i just put new ones in and now hear a knock from when kind slightly turn left to right quickly. any ideas??
Sounds like maybe one of the bushings got folded over itself or maybe tore and is shifting the steering rack when you turn. Or one of the bolts broke possibly. Hope you’re able to find out what it is.
@@DantheFixitMan Thanks Dan. I've got 105,300 miles on my 03 I bought brand new. I've been told I need an entire new rack and pinion + front end alignment.
@@tommcnally428 No problem, I have had my truck since it was new as well. My brother-in-law has the same truck and he was told he needs a complete new steering rack etc as well. His is leaking out of the ends, so sounds like the seals are bad. He doesn't live nearby, or I would be replacing the seals for him. You can get a replacement rack if needed for a few hundred dollars if the steering rack body is rotted out or rusted through. If just the bushings or seals are bad, you might be able to save some money and do it yourself. Best of luck to you. Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man
I'll not be an ass, and just say this didn't work for me. What I had to do: Disconnect passenger side tie rod. Gently pull out rack and pinion from center mount after loosening bolts. Pry out c cup mount. Use 22 mm long socket or better and tap out bushings after cutting off lips. Grease inside of holes. Hammer in new horizontal bushing (s). Slide in sleeve with grease. Hammer in vertical bushing with sleeve same way. Slide on c bushing. Reinstall bolts for horizontal and vertical barrel bushings. Align c-clamp mount to new c bushing; install top bolt first to avoid cross threading. Reinstall bottom bolt and reinstall tie rod. Doing it the way this video depicted I ran into several problems, unless you have something to hold the rack in place, I couldn't get it to set back enough to remove the vertical one. Cheers though, but I won't try to do it held in again.
Thanks for the video. Just finished mine. Here’s my tip for pressing out the driver side bushing if it’s stuck. Remove the washer from under the nut. Thread the nut back on a couple turns. Pull the rack away from frame and jam a block of wood in the gap. Now you can tighten the nut and it will extract the bushing about half way before bolt threads bottom out. This only works because the nut will fit through the hole. Back the nut off (std socket fits inside the hole). I was then able to just remove the bushing the rest of the way by hand.
That’s a great tip! Thank you for sharing!
Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
Just did this bushing swap this afternoon. That horizontal bushing really tests a persons patience! I didn’t think it would ever move.
Also, I had to use a breaker bar on all four bolts/nuts to get them loose.
Getting the bolts lined up after changing the bushing was made easier with a pry bar wedged between the rack and the transmission.
Thanks for your video!
Thank you, you performed this repair with the knowledge and tools that every driveway/garage mechanic has, just ordered the kit and lube for my 2006 Tundra. Time to tighten up the steering after 222K miles. Keep up the great work.
The 123 torque spec for 19mms and 86 for 22mm is correct for OEM specs. I struggled with getting the center part free and taking off the drivers wheel made it come free with ease. I did this with the front end jacked up for ease of movement. Thank you for doing this video. Made a big difference.
I see 96ft/lbs for the 22mm, in the service manual
Thanks brother. Always easier to see someone else do it before trying myself!
Glad it only took me a few hours, mostly trying to dig out the old bushing!
No worries, Happy to hear you got it done!
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for taking the time to show your work. However, putting grease on the bushing is not beneficial. Grease helps things move and not remain stationary. This bracket bushing is meant to grip and clamp down the steering rack to frame w/o movement. Thus preventing rack from sliding side to side. Adding grease could lead to prematurely doing the job again sometime down the road. When rack's body is pitted with rust, paint the rack with a good rust preventative paint instead. Por-15 makes good product for that
Directly from the directions for these bushings "Coat the inside and outside of the new rack bushings with a generous amount of grease. Slide the
bushing halves into their proper locations on the rack. Insert the inner sleeves into the rack bushings.
Use a mallet to tap them in until flush with the bushing. "
Just tackled this job, I have a ghetto press/puller made from some threaded rod, nuts and washers combined with sockets or what ever I can get my hands on to make it work. It made getting the old bushings out a piece of cake. Thanks for making this video so I knew what I was getting myself into. It was a relatively straightforward job.
Thanks for the vid instructions. I’m going to tackle this today on my 267,000 mile 03’ Tundra. They are in need badly.
I changed my bushings, 2004 RWD. I decided to drill out some of the rubber in the bushings. That worked well, they came out fairly easy. Still, I don't think this is a job for a newbie, it took some shrewd veteran moves to do this job on the street in front of my house. I used MOOG parts, which I think are also polyurethane. They were very firm, not rubber-like, more like plastic, and fit perfectly. Your video gave me the confidence to do it, thank you again. It is cool that you are a Tundra aficionado, as am I.
Awesome!! Thanks I realized my steering was a bit dodgy had someone turn the wheel while I was underneath and Bingo! Great video and instructions the manual states: 96 ft lbs on left, 123 center and 123 right. Took about 1.5 hours, raise it up does help as the wheels can turn as you move the rack
Just picked up a sweet 06 double cab with 155k. This is top of the list. Had to do the same on my 02.
Very helpful video, just did mine in about an hour. Having the front wheels off the ground was a big help. I had a little trouble getting the center bushing to move back far enough, but grabbed the rear of the left front tire, pulled it inward while prying, and it moved far enough. Having a ball joint press made removing the old bushings quick and easy.
371000 and counting on my Tundra 1st work on the Rack control arm on my truck. Looks simple enough.
Nice video, answered my question about being able to do it on the truck. Doing this today on my Sequoia and will be careful work the lines. Thanks
Hi Binh,
Glad to hear my video helped you.
Hope you were able to get it done without much trouble.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Hey guys, first off XLNT video. Just finished mine. I found that if you use a long handled
Punch, you can torque the metal bushing side-to-side while squirting lube. That got the rubber
bushing well lubricated and popped right out. I thought the author used too much assembly grease.
That was until I tried to get mine installed. Lube it up, makes it a lot easier. I torqued all bolts to 100.
Thank you for sharing. I need to replace the steering rack of my 2005 Tundra due to leak of the fluid, I just had known from other video that it would be better to replace the bushing as well.
Pep boys jus tried to stick me for $2500. And mine is doing the same thing this one is doing. Thank you thank you thank you !!!
I put this off because I was broke, ended up cracking the welds on the crossmember bracket when I hit a pothole. (the bracket in question is at 3:00 just to the right of the bushing.)
had to get it welded and luckily I found a place that could do it. Technically this might be a "frame repair" which many shops wont touch with a 10 foot pole.
Helpful tips. Thanks. I need to replace my bushings as well. The one on the right side is completely gone.
Thanks for taking the time to do that, Dan.
No problem,
Hope it helps you out.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
3:30...i jus wanna share something thru my personal experience regarding this generation sequoia. Keep in mind these had flaws & did have recalls on the chassis. Anyways, the mounting surface that this piece mounts to ripped right off the frame/chassis crossmember 6 months after i replaced my rack bushings. So might wanna consider frame strapping(reinforcement).....talk to a welder......idk just wanted to share. It is a safety issue. Its not a nice feeling when it breaks away while driving on freeway.
🤙🏽
My truck is a NY truck. Throw out all the rules. Few hours of foul language and I got very little done. Could not get top bolt to budge. Could not even get a socket on the bolt. No room to tap up there... No room for leverage. I was hoping to change my bushings (shot) before the rack rotted too bad under the right bushing. The upper line was leaking. Amazingly it came right off and leak is resolved. Welcome to NY. Truck is in great shape otherwise. If it holds off from leaking until spring I will tackle it again. I may cut the welded bolt off the bottom and drive the bolt up, then replace the bolt and nut. I have no idea why the nut is welded anyway. Even if the nut falls off the bolt would never fall out. And I have been getting underside coated annually and have been spraying the area since the first time I saw the condition of the rack.
Great video BTW. Thank you. Gave me high hopes with low expectations lol
Well, that doesn't sound fun at all. I hope you're able to get it done in spring without too much trouble. Mine is still holding up great after this repair. Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
My Indiana Tacoma also had a lot of rot around the right-side D-shape bushing. I scaled away at some of it wit ha screwdriver to look for any holes but did not find any. Luckily if it is leaking at all it's only a very slow leak.
Did you try to use propane to put some heat on the bolt or one of those mechanic heat guns? Heat usually helps to get those bolts out. I've used this method successfully.
Ok I had the right bracket upside down yesterday and no washer on the left inside on the long bolt, video helped alot.
Thank you that was much easier than I expected it to be
Thank you is really good video you explain very clear congratulations and I have cuestion Toyota sequioa 2002 have same system like the Toyota tundra
You know what...this maybe my issue. The mechanic couldnt do a front end alignment because of excessive play and said I need a new rack and pinion. Im gonna check.
Thanks for a good legit vid.
Re Manufacturered R n P's usually have issues, so I found a new one by Cardone for $560 at a couple more Hundred. OEM's are 900-$1200.
Does the cardone rack work well? I replaced mine with an A-premium rack and it was a mistake, now my sequoia wants to wander all over the place on the highway & I might need another new rack :(
@@slipinr Its doing good, Thank God !!
The Shop was amazed that I had found that. Took 1/2 a day + to research all these things.
Just thought you’d like to know I used your video to change my bushings and it was super helpful. Thanks 👍👍
Glad it helped!
i took my time but very doable, bushings on my 2006 tundra were in bad shape so they came out with finger, passenger side d bracket top bolt was stuck bad, realized it extends out in back, had to spray PB in back too, came out in 2 sec, used grease for new bushings, putting back rack and lining up with hole was hard, definitely need pry bar
Thank you very much, it was well illustrated. Good Work!!
Wow the difference is awesome
Great! Thx 4 watching
Excellent video! Thank you for making this and showing me. 247k kms mine are shot. Also will be doing sway bar bushings.
Thanks! Great video. No rust on your undercarriage! Gotta replace the whole rack AND the bushings
because mine rusted through RIGHT where you scraped the rust off of your rack. Salt kills.
For those in the rust belt area and even those not in the rust belt always put antiseize on all the bolts.
Mucha ayuda para mi persona por primera vez que ago muchas gracias bien echo el video te doy 100 puntos por ayudarme en eso
Good work man I plan on tackling this job here p soon
My local Toyota dealership charges $740 to do this job. I’ll be tackling it myself. 🤠
@@Keymeow1 I paid a local mechanic $250 😎
So you didn’t “tackle” it yourself lol
@@chrispeterson1247 Just an expression. 🤪
@@SaabAholic you are a smarter man that me the drivers side bushing….Iv spent 4 hrs on and off trying to get it out. Finally broke lose lol
@@chrispeterson1247 I was lucky that our mobile mechanic we use at work was available! Hope it goes smoothly from here on!
gonna do this on my 04 Sequoia soon as it needs them badly. Great video.
Thinking of doing this on my 02 sequoia. I’ve literally never done a car repair other than replacing light bulbs 😬. How did the repair go for you? Also what did it feel like before replacing? Mine looks like it needs to be replaced, leaking fluid, and brakes plus told me it needed to be done. But I’m just not sure I’ve felt anything. Thanks.
Wow, thought he was going to replace the entire rack and pinion. That’s what brakes plus told me I needed l. Any idea how to know if I need the whole thing replaced or just the bushings?
Thank you for the video very helpful pushing mine in I use Quick grips
Thanks for the video. I am going to have to do this myself and was wondering if it could be done without removing the rack & pinion from the truck. I'll just have to be careful with the lines.
You're welcome.
I hope you were able to get it done without any complications...
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
We’re you able to do it without moving the rack.I don’t know how you could get the bushing out since it has a lip on the side that faces the rack. Let me know.
Scott
My 2006 tundra DC sometime makes a weird sound if you're going up a hill and making a sharp turn just sound like a thump coming from the front I checked lower and upper ball joints good replaced sway bar bushings so they're good maybe I will try this next it's been doing it for years it would be great if this fixed it.
Well done video, very insightful! Gave me the confidence to takle this myself! Thank you sir!
Your video is very helpful 👍🏻 and thank you for the tips!
Thank you so much. Glad you liked it. Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for the video appreciate your time and what your doing. Do the front wheel need to be off the ground
No problem, I don't think it's necessary to get the wheels off the ground, but it might be easier if they are off the ground in case you have to shift the rack a little bit to get everything lined up. Best of luck to you.
-Dan
Wow just what I was looking for. Thank you sir!
Thank you. I have a little more confidence I can do this.
Kool vid, a big help , you did a an awesome job.
Thank you so much!
Just started this job. First snag took about 3.1 seconds lol. You will need a deep set 19mil socket for that bushing bracket lol
About to buy energy suspension bushings because I just had my mechanic replace my bushings with the dorman brand and in less then 6 months there is one that completely ripped out the sleeve
great video but you should have shown the play before and after the repair at the steering wheel.
I used a small bottle jack, after it was un bolted, to lift the rack up a little, before I pulled it away from the cross member. I did not need to remove the tie rod.
I did jack the truck up enough to take weight off the wheels and be able to manipulate the rack easier.
Can i just change the split bushing without taking out the other bolts
Excellent video.
I'm assuming my 04 Tacoma is basically the same. I bought this truck new in 04. My bushings are shot. I live in the high desert near Big Bend National Park in Texas. I'm 150 miles from a lift or mechanic. What risk I'm I taking for me and others driving that far? Watching your video makes me think I can do this by ordering parts. Any feedback would be appreciated. AND thanks for the video it made it possible for me to understand what I was dealing with. ( Stock vs aftermarket parts? Recommendations ?
Again thank you in advance.
Great info and knowledge, thank you for sharing and making it a breeze to do my sequoia lol
Thanks! Great explanation.
since going up tyre size in my navara and lifting it at 150 000km the steering is feeling a bit shit. Never even thought about bushing on steering. Its a cheap upgrade as well so most people should do it on any large car over 100 000km.
I drilled out rubber on both sides & sprayed wd40. Popped out no problem with a socket and hammer
These racks for Tundras and Sequoias have a notorious rust issue with the rack itself as they age. At 5:15 your video demonstrates the very spot it will develop a leak. I think the degradation of the big bushing is a result of the rust, vibration, and abrasion from the rack.
You fixed this customer's steering play, but the rack WILL leak. May not be in a year, may not be in two years, but it will continue to rust and eventually leak at that very spot. I've tried sanding and painting over that spot with no success.
I have two 1st gen Sequoias with the rusty rack problem, but interestingly, my older and newer Toyotas do not have any rust on the rack.
I am sure you are correct in that it will eventually leak. I am hoping that it will last for a while longer. It’s been over 3 years since I did this, and it hasn’t leaked yet, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. This repair was on my personal truck btw. I am hoping that maybe the Sil-Glyde grease on that area has slowed down the rust…
I will update the description if/when I see a leak or have to replace the rack.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Is this your DD? I'm curious to see how it looks now after three years. But if it aint broke....
@@MF-rw3rb not my daily anymore, but it still gets driven quite a bit. I have had it since new and have over 300k miles on it now.
@@DantheFixitMan I 100% agree about the rust causing an unrepairable hole and a leak in rack at the big U-bracket.
I think what happens is the classic valve cover leak deteriorates the bushing at the U-bracket, then dirt and grit get in and wear the paint and the then the worn bushings let the grit grind away until you have the unrepairable leak.
Moral of the story is….keep up on the weepy valve cover gaskets. Not all oil leaks act as rust preventatives….
Just my uneducated opinion, but I can’t see a reason to realign the front end. The wheels/tires are aligned in relation to one another, not in relation to the rack. Regardless of where the rack is now sitting, the wheels are still aligned in relation to each other if you didn’t mess with the tie rod ends.
Thanks for the great video! 👍 I’m walking outside right now to tackle this on my ‘04 Double Cab.
Dan, thank you for the no-nonsense video. Are you using the 1/2" or 3/8" fuel 18 impact?
You are welcome, I’m using the 1/2” high torque 2767 model in this video, but I also have the 3/8” 2960 now. They are both very nice.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix It Man
Question I have a 2019 Toyota Tundra sr5 i only have 25000 miles I have a big problem with my steering wheel I feel like the steering wheel is gonna come of my hand it feel like the truck has no stability at all when you move the steering wheel from left to right it feels like a old truck I have taken it to the dealership 3 times and they tell me it’s normal I don’t think a brand new truck should feel like that. I have a 2014 Scion xB and it doesn’t even feel a bit like that that car has 75000 miles on it and that steering wheel is nice and tight .
Any suggestions on what you think it might be I’m thinking about doing the lemon law on it
Since i dont have the tools or knowledge on how to do it myself , would it be cheaper to just have a shop replace the Rack and put the better bushinhs in?
Very nice video 🙌
Having a really hard time getting the rack off of the center bushing. Tried lining up the inside of the bushing like the video mentioned. I lubed it with some silicone spray too, still no luck. Any ideas? Do I have to get the wheels off the ground? I have a lift so there's plenty of room underneath. Would disconnecting a tie rod end help? Never worked on a truck with rack&pinion steering before.
Hi Cameron,
That’s exactly what I had trouble with too. Once I put a screwdriver up inside the metal inner sleeve, I was able to pry it and make it straight enough to come out. It was locked in place until I did that.
Hope that will work for you too.
Some people who have done this job said that it was easier for them to disconnect one of the tie rod ends, and maybe lifting the wheels off the ground would make it easier as well.
Please let us know how it goes.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I cannot get the center bolt to start. I tried applying downward force to the head of the ratchet with a prybar.
If you placed some wood behind the assembly and frame it would have been easier to bang out because the assembly would not move as you bang on it.
Am a steering engineer by profession I work and repair all kinds of steering pump and racks for all kinds of cars
This must be the clunk I have in my steering since I changed everything else on the front end suspension. Thanks.
It was
How’s she drive
same thing happened to me after I changed out my swaybar bushings and strut bushing
@@mikevortex it stopped wandering on the freeway, even though it was very mild. Feels like how you would expect. Smooth and confident. No more clunk when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the side any more.
Thanks for the video was very helpful for me
Good job
This will be the same exact way as the sequoia? I’m about to re do all my front bushings to get rid of some play
I think it is the same as the sequoia. Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I just changed my passenger side bushing, but placed the split side up. Think it matters?
Probably doesn’t matter. Thanks for watching!
Gracias me ayudaste mucho por tu video 100 puntos
Great!
You do good work but I am going to use break fluid for assembly lube because it dries fast and it seems like grease attracts dirt, causes premature wear and ends up squeaky anyway but more than one way to skin a cat. also I’m a big anti seize fan and to anyone in the rust belt should anti seize the bolts. Thanks for the video.
Brake fluid will degrade the bushings. Poly bushings take a special type of grease. Has to be silicon based.
@@TanCalHan in theory. I said the same thing but I’ve been doing it for years now with no ill effects 🤷🏻♂️
Great video thank you
Will these bushings also lead to a knock while turning? It almost sounds like a CV joint knock but just one instead of multiple
That’s possible. I would get underneath and take a look while someone turns the wheel to see if you can tell where the noise is coming from, or at least inspect the bushings.
Thanks for watching!
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you...great help
Sir whats are the pros and cons of soft bushing for rack and pinion?
Hi Jacob,
The old worn out soft bushings were causing the entire steering rack to wander and have excessive play. The new bushings fixed this and made the steering feel much more responsive.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
U did a very good job....come help me to replace mine2
At first I drove up on a ramp...bad idea. Left wheel must be off the ground with jackstand otherwise the rack wont drop. Just reiterating
Do You mean driver wheel?
@@eticahumana yea driver front
@@cojojacobs3538 I'm about to do this job, and I was wondering if I have to lift both wheels. As I don't have two jacks, you reply solve my question. Thanks, man!
good job, however grease and rubber not a good idea because the grease will softer the rubber, if you need to lubricate any rubber material use Brake Fluid, brake fluis won't harm rubber all the component in the brake system used it
True, but he did not use rubber bushings. He installed polyurethane bushings that need to be greased.
Great video Dan. Do you have a video on replacing a steering shaft coupling that seems to be binding at a left hand turn? 2002 Sequoia.
Thank you Edward,
Sorry, no, I haven’t done that yet. Hopefully you can find something on here.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Did you have any clunking noise before you noticed it great content 🔧
Thank you,
No, not clunking or anything, just a lot more play in the steering wheel than normal.
Thx again!
Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan how do I know if I have to replace the entire rack and pinion or just the bushings? Brakes plus just told me I need all new rack and pinion (and front and rear strut assembly and lower control arm) but I’m now wondering if I just need new bushings for the rack and pinion. Thanks a TON!
Quick question: What was it that caused the leak? Was it pulling forward on the lines? Down on the lines? Any advice to keep it from happening at all?
Hi Chuck,
Sorry to get back to you so late. I think it was just moving them in general I really didn't think I was too forceful or anything like that. They didn't seem to be very tight from the factory, so I just tightened them and it stopped the leak. Fortunately, it hasn't leaked at all since then.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Cool! Thanks for the response! Sorry, I don't get notifications about responses. Just getting this.
Exelent video 👏👏
Man I seen the before action was wanting see the after completed action.
It’s there. It’s right around 21:30.
Thx for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I cannot get the center bolt to line up. I have tried everything. I got all the bushings in fine. Now the center is not aligning by a hair. Got the other sides in. I tried to do the center first, wasn't happening, HELP PLEASE!?
Having this same issue. The video was extremely helpful but I’m just stuck at the center bushing. Cannot get the rack to line back up perfectly to slide the bolt in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
@@erinlambright2207 Were your wheels on the ground? Or did you have them up in the air? Tires on or off?
Would it be wise to change the sway bar bushings while down there ? It’s been my experience that changing bushings, others will fail.
Yes, I did also change them before I had done this job. If I remember correctly, they were pretty inexpensive and they were easy to change. I had also upgraded them to polyurethane.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Should this be the same for a 2001 Sequoia?
Yes
anyone have any knocking after replacing these? i just put new ones in and now hear a knock from when kind slightly turn left to right quickly. any ideas??
Sounds like maybe one of the bushings got folded over itself or maybe tore and is shifting the steering rack when you turn. Or one of the bolts broke possibly. Hope you’re able to find out what it is.
@@stunt-I was able to figure out one of the upper bolts needed just a little more tightening
@@EricB.1 that’s great! I’m glad to hear you were able to fix it
Do you have to lift the vehicle?
It’s not necessary to lift it.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan hey thanks, I was in the middle of changing them. That left side one was a son of a gun!! Appreciate the video
Thanx for the vid. Local crook I mean shop wanted $2,500 to do this. You guessed it a Californiastan shop.
How many miles on the truck?
Hi Tom,
It’s around 290,000 miles so far.👍🏼
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Thanks Dan. I've got 105,300 miles on my 03 I bought brand new. I've been told I need an entire new rack and pinion + front end alignment.
@@tommcnally428 No problem,
I have had my truck since it was new as well. My brother-in-law has the same truck and he was told he needs a complete new steering rack etc as well. His is leaking out of the ends, so sounds like the seals are bad. He doesn't live nearby, or I would be replacing the seals for him.
You can get a replacement rack if needed for a few hundred dollars if the steering rack body is rotted out or rusted through.
If just the bushings or seals are bad, you might be able to save some money and do it yourself.
Best of luck to you.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
I'll not be an ass, and just say this didn't work for me.
What I had to do:
Disconnect passenger side tie rod.
Gently pull out rack and pinion from center mount after loosening bolts.
Pry out c cup mount.
Use 22 mm long socket or better and tap out bushings after cutting off lips.
Grease inside of holes.
Hammer in new horizontal bushing (s).
Slide in sleeve with grease.
Hammer in vertical bushing with sleeve same way.
Slide on c bushing.
Reinstall bolts for horizontal and vertical barrel bushings.
Align c-clamp mount to new c bushing; install top bolt first to avoid cross threading.
Reinstall bottom bolt and reinstall tie rod.
Doing it the way this video depicted I ran into several problems, unless you have something to hold the rack in place, I couldn't get it to set back enough to remove the vertical one. Cheers though, but I won't try to do it held in again.
Thanks for the video, just ordered all the parts off eBay for cheap because fuck Jeff bezos, gonna take a stab at this when the parts come in
No I just Yank on the ratchet until my ears ring
just looked under my tundra ...... the bushing is not even there lol
Bummer...Hopefully you can get some new ones in there without too much trouble.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man