Great lessons my friend :-) very clear , very well explained step by step in a very clear path.Keep up with the great work & upload some more lessons !
Thanks so much for your kind words! I'm in India at the moment, so life is pretty full! But when I return to Canada, I have more frame drum lesson ideas to post. cheers...
palika benton I just bought a Cooperman Glen Velez Handance drum. The 16 in. It is worth every penny. I love it. I own a few frames, Remo’s and Meinl’s too. Now I am selling off the others and just focus my playing on the Cooperman.
Great lesson, very well made! Will definitely try this pattern out! One question, though: Is there a reason why you start the split hand with the lower part (middle, ring and little finger) instead of the top part? I've learnt it the other way around from David Kuckhermanns DVDs... Although he also changes the order when he also uses the top hand for playing pa's in longer and more sequences. Hm, have to try that out too, now that I'm thinking about it, I can see how starting with the lower part in some patterns like here could be nicer/easier/more comfortable. Thanks for the inspiration!
MrFair Hi, thanks for the comments. There are a few different options for the split-hand technique, and which part of the hand begins the pattern depends on the musical context. These differences are partially based on the fact that mrdangam technique uses two hands but kanjira technique only one hand. So when a ki-ta-ta-ka phrase is played on mrdangam, it's shared between the two hands, and usually begins with the 3 fingers together. But on kanjira, the index finger leads the same pattern. It has more to do with where you want to *end up* coming out of the ki-ta-ta-ka. Ending with a low tone ("doum" or "tom") is often desirable - on mrdangam, this tone is usually played with the left hand, and on kanjira with the index finger. But in both cases, the *second last* stroke (just before doum) is played with the 3-finger part of the split hand. Hope this makes sense! cheers, Ken
Thanks for the video. It was helpful. BTW, is that Cooperman drum with Remo Renaissance Head or Remo WeatherKing Head? Asking because I plan to buy one, the same one you're playing.
Hello! The drum in this video is a Tar made by Cooperman drum company in Vermont, USA. You can contact them in order to find out what it would cost to ship one to Brazil! cooperman.com
Another great video
Thanks for your patient and clear teaching. I really need the slow to medium speeds to learn.
My pleasure. Glad you found the video useful!
Hello Ken merci beaucoup pour votre pédagogie et ça donne envie d'aller plus loin.bonne continuation 🙂exellent instrument
Bonjour et merci ! Je suis heureux que vous appréciiez les vidéos.
Excellent Ken-sir!
Glad you enjoyed it, PG!
Great lessons my friend :-) very clear , very well explained step by step in a very clear path.Keep up with the great work & upload some more lessons !
Thanks so much for your kind words! I'm in India at the moment, so life is pretty full! But when I return to Canada, I have more frame drum lesson ideas to post. cheers...
Very interesting. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thank very much! I appreciated your starting slow as I am a beginner (in so many ways). Peace Peace Peace
Thanks for your kind words! Happy drumming.
Excellent, Thank you
Would you be willing to share what Tar specifically from Cooperman? Glen Velez Hand Dance or?
Hello, This is the standard Cooperman Tar with a Renaissance head. Beautiful drum!
palika benton I just bought a Cooperman Glen Velez Handance drum. The 16 in. It is worth every penny. I love it. I own a few frames, Remo’s and Meinl’s too. Now I am selling off the others and just focus my playing on the Cooperman.
Great lesson, very well made! Will definitely try this pattern out!
One question, though: Is there a reason why you start the split hand with the lower part (middle, ring and little finger) instead of the top part? I've learnt it the other way around from David Kuckhermanns DVDs...
Although he also changes the order when he also uses the top hand for playing pa's in longer and more sequences. Hm, have to try that out too, now that I'm thinking about it, I can see how starting with the lower part in some patterns like here could be nicer/easier/more comfortable.
Thanks for the inspiration!
MrFair Hi, thanks for the comments. There are a few different options for the split-hand technique, and which part of the hand begins the pattern depends on the musical context. These differences are partially based on the fact that mrdangam technique uses two hands but kanjira technique only one hand. So when a ki-ta-ta-ka phrase is played on mrdangam, it's shared between the two hands, and usually begins with the 3 fingers together. But on kanjira, the index finger leads the same pattern. It has more to do with where you want to *end up* coming out of the ki-ta-ta-ka. Ending with a low tone ("doum" or "tom") is often desirable - on mrdangam, this tone is usually played with the left hand, and on kanjira with the index finger. But in both cases, the *second last* stroke (just before doum) is played with the 3-finger part of the split hand. Hope this makes sense!
cheers,
Ken
Thanks for the video. It was helpful. BTW, is that Cooperman drum with Remo Renaissance Head or Remo WeatherKing Head? Asking because I plan to buy one, the same one you're playing.
Hi Rex, Glad you enjoyed the video! All three of my Cooperman tars have the Renaissance head, which I really love!
I live in Brazil. Please tell me how much such an instrument costs. The sound is wonderful.
Hello! The drum in this video is a Tar made by Cooperman drum company in Vermont, USA. You can contact them in order to find out what it would cost to ship one to Brazil!
cooperman.com
Ken Shorley thanks.