I would be better if you could access this during replay, so you can study it it more precise to make any adjustments, very difficult to analyse when at race pace.
I agree. That would make it a lot more manageable and easier to read the data, and get a better understanding of it all. It's at least better than nothing and hopefully the guide helps people to understand it better.
Im so late to this party lol. Good thing is without really thinking about it i actually do alot of the same things setting wise. Problem is i had no idea i was adjusting settings like TC the wrong way. I assumed the higher the value the more it works lol. Oh and the engine brake i tend to use that on F1or indy just enough to slow down a little when you dont want to touch the break. Ive been putting this at 4 or 5 also. So its nice to know i was on a path (even though i was wrong)that with a little redearch and you tube im now alot more confident i can set a base set up that i know will work for my style of driving. Also since ive only had this game for less then a week i still feal like i got here just in time. I be binge watchin till i learn it. Thanks bro for this very well done and thought out tutorial.
Hi Yorkie, I just thought I'd leave a comment thanking you for this series of videos, but this one in particular has really helped me in understanding how to get the brake and tyres setup properly. I was in a race today and it was amazing the difference in braking between me and other cars, keep up the good work!
Well done as always. You've taken 1-2 secs off my lap times average. Awesome inside and knowledge. Being an American I can share with you that the Weight Jacket as they refer to it is what's used in oval racing such as NASCAR, where it's refered to as adding it removing "Wedge", which aids in the car turning left by lowering the left side of the car, or raising it, in concert with the lateral weight bias. The idea, as always is to aid in the corners, but adjust the wedge during pit stops to decrease either over or understeer. Thank you, every one of ur vids has helped me greatly. Well done, I wouldn't change a thing!!!!!!!
@Yorkie065 This was the best explaination i found on your link you sent. Perhaps add it in description? I think its superb! When it comes to shifting points, don't look for the torque but for HP. The theoretically perfect shifting point is when your current HP match the HP you'll get in the next gear. Taking a fictive example: 5500 RPM = 680 HP 6000 RPM = 700 HP 6500 RPM = 715 HP (peak) 7000 RPM = 700 HP 7500 RPM = 650 HP (redline) 4th gear ratio: 1.20 5th gear ratio: 1.03 Gear ratio quotient: 1.03 / 1.20 = 0.86 Now let's find out the optimum gear shift point. 1) Shifting at peak HP: 715@6500 -> 6500 x 0.86 = 5590 RPM -> ~680 HP --> You're shifting too early because your HP drop too much 2) Shifting at 7000: 700@7000 -> 7000 x 0.86 = 6000 RPM -> ~700 HP --> Perfect shifting point because HP of 4th and 5th gear match up 3) Shifting at redline: 650@7500 -> 7500 x 0.86 = 6450 RPM -> ~715 HP --> You're shifting too late because your HP already dropped down too much
Hey thanks for making these videos, love the informational style grouped into separate videos. You are the only one I have seen clearly separate your videos.
Thanks for uploading these videos and taking the time to do them. Most of what I know about setups came from watching your videos. Everything explained perfectly in detail and in a way that non-Aliens can understand :D
Thanks Yorkie! I hope we can have some in-depth knowledge to the bump stops, travel and ride height in future episodes and how best to fine tune these, in fact I hope you do a fine tuning video explanation for each other of the tuning options in the future, many thanks.
great content Yorkie! I'm recently new to PC2 and you have taught me quite a few things with regards to this game. I really appreciate you taking the time and producing this content. Not knowing much about the physics model in this game it's these tidbits of info -- like i had no idea about brake temps. So now I know what to look for in tuning -- because i have been having serious issues with brake ducts too small and therefore radiating heat into the tires. GT3 cars getting tire pressure at 2.0 bar (or more) -- very slippery. I am definitely looking forward to your next videos in the series! Thanks again for the hard work and I'm sure we all appreciate the content :)
Yeah, tyre pressure of 2.0 bar on the GT3 tyres is very high! Majority of tracks in GT3 you want to be aiming for 1.80 bar hot pressure. You can go up to 1.90 bar for somewhere like Monza or Le Mans to get less rolling resistance and higher top speeds, but cornering performance will be effected. Slower tracks with a lot of slow tight corners, you can probably lower the pressures down for 1.70 bar when hot. Link in the description to Casey's post provides the tyre pressures you should be aiming for on various tyre types.
12m40s: you're saying that the game physics actually models the radiant heat from the brake discs being absorbed by the tyres resulting in an increase in tyre air pressure?! It is simply incredible the amount of thought and detail that goes into developing racing simulators. Superb!
Yup, you can test this for yourself in a practice or qualifying session. Come out the pits when the brakes are cold and stop and remain stationary. Then watch what happens to your tyre pressures, they should barely change. Then start driving and down 3 or 4 laps, get the brakes nice and hot then stop and remain stationary and watch the pressures. You should see them start increasing and going way up above where they would when driving normally. If you start driving and do a few laps but a little more cautiously, you should see the tyre pressures come back down and stabalize again. It all varies depending on how much heat or how cool the brakes are.
Hi Yorkie, great videos, you have really helped my enjoyment of this amazing sim. I was a big fan of PC1 and am loving PC2, keep up the good work. Like mentioned by others It would be great to have access to the telemetry while in the pits. Other than that loving it.
One thing im wondering about. If you shift at the "optimum" point like you did. You gonna have 480 horsepower in the next gear. However if you wait for all lights you gonna have 500+ horspower in the next gear. Which one is really better? Its better to have less horsepower on the next gear?
My description in the video is actually slightly off. What you should be aiming for is similar similar HP when shifting up into the next gear. So as an example; say I have a peak power of 520HP at 6500rpm, and then drops down to 500HP at the redline at 7200rpm. At 6800rpm, I have a power output of 510HP in 4th gear, and shifting up into 5th puts me at 510HP before climbing up to peak power. I then know that 6800rpm is going to be the optimal shift point from 4th to 5th. It's quite difficult to see reading the figures as they're constantly changing, but there is a thread here where Bealdor in post #4 explains it along with calculations further into the thread forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55865-Calculate-the-optimal-shift-points
Ohh thank you for the answer and the link. This was the answer that came up to my head when watching your video. Holding it for a longer to get more power at next gear :)
Yorkie065 Do you think you could make a small video demonstrating it? I’m trying to get similar numbers, but they’re never really all that similar. It’s kinda complex.
In most of the cases shifting at the red line is correct. With a high powered car you should rather think about applying "close gearing" (long 1st gear and closer 2nd to max gear). Just like F1 cars at Monza.
I love the game, bought it a long time ago when I didn't have a steering wheel yet and that was a mistake. But now that I do I'm loving it. Although I've heard it gets a bad rep. I use this force feedback a community member made and the game feels wonderful. Love all these adjustments one can make like you would irl. I guess the main complaint about the game would be the online part, where there is some bugginess in the connectivity or something. These series you made are essential though for a beginner like myself.
Hey great vids!! What would I need to adjust as when I’m driving the bit where it says travel flashes red? Guessing something to do with dampeners? Cheers
In PCars 1 there were yellow circles around each tire depicted in the telemetry graphics. These circles would increase and decrease with the amount of weight or grip that each tire is experiencing. Once the weight or grip goes over the grip threshold, the circles would turn red. These were very important in judging the effectiveness of the suspension as you could clearly see that when the circles turn red that your suspension was no longer working. Where are they now in PCars 2?
I run with zero hud on in VR. I’m trying to drive..I don’t have time to look at that stuff. However I wish there was a way to only have the FFB telemetry on. I find that one really important as each car is different and needs to be adjusted on the fly.
Nice, your guide vids have bean a realy good help to me, since i start watching them i improve my overall online race resolts Ps. Sorry my bad english lol
So what are the four cube/section things on the inside of the suspension travel curve (between the damper icon and the curve)? It looks like they should do something. Very hard to see them.
Do you shoot for correct pressure or tire temp when looking at tire pressures? (Assuming even spread) Ie getting “correct”pressure but tires being too hot or cold. Would you still respectively increase or decrease tire pressure to get optimum temps?
As far as I know you shouldn't use tire pressure to correct tire temp. Always aim for correct pressure. The temp can be affected by the camber or toe settings for instance and your driving habits (correct braking and accelerating without locking up or spinning tires).
@yourkie065 Thank you so much now I am the second fastest lmp1 at the Nürnburg GP after the tip in camber and the temp indicators. Also did a 1:12.960 on the red bull ring GP and still room too improve.
Well it would be better to use more of the gear, because it dropped from 520 to 480 when the blue just had turned on. If you kept going till it dropped in gear to you have used up the peak power and it has dropped to around 505 you would start out at 500 in the next gear. Aka faster acceleration but more burned fuel.
I know this is an older video but i just got project cars 2 recently and cant figure out what the small graph/numbers below the rear left tire telemetry. Anyone know what that is for?. Had to edit, was very strange. My comment was something like "this video is very helpful" and contained nothing i actually typed. Strange.
Ah, well dont gotta worry about that. Unfortunately am using a controller, still the best racing game ive ever played. This and Dirt Rally are my favorites. Really enjoy the tip videos ya made for this game.
No, in most cases it is not wrong. But if a car has a power curve that falls off extremely and grdaually way before the end of the gear, it may be a good advise to change before the red line. I remember certain 70s cars having that kind of curve.
Really informative video again Yorkie! About the red flashes, it flashes red when you car bottoms out briefly (height = 0.0) for a short amount of time. It doesn't seem to flash red when you run out of suspension travel or hitting the bumb stops. It also doesn't flash red when you have a constant 0.0 height and dragging the chassis on the ground, only when briefly hitting the ground. You can see it on this video here: th-cam.com/video/zi2E3tPCMdQ/w-d-xo.html. You can also see it when you watch your own video Yorkie, set the video speed on 0.25 under the settings and go to 26:02 on this video, than check the height of the right side of the car while taking the left turn, you can see the car bottoming out briefly and flashing "travel?" red after that.
Brilliant! Love it as it has brought a whole new element to racing and various other games, to the point that I can sometimes struggle without it. So much more situational awareness, more immersion, am able to see into corners better so I can be more accurate with hitting apexes, very practical in the sense that I don't have a screen immediately infront of my eyes like a VR headset so I can use extra buttons on the wheel and keyboard easily. The only 2 downsides to it are that there's now an additional cable running up to the headset, and on very sunny days, I have to put blankets or towels up over the windows to block out the sunlight, as too much sunlight messes with the infra red sensors.
Yup, believe there are a number of various software programs that you can use for it. RST (RacingSim Tools) is one that I would recommend as is great for telemetry with PC2.
Clipping is the last bar on the FFB widget. The way I saw it explained is that each bar is a bucket for a range of forces. The 1st bar is 0-20, the 2nd is 21-40, and so on. The last bar that shows red is clipping. So if the combined total from all the bars is over 100 then you'll see the extra show on the clipping bar. The graph that's missing is just showing you the combined amount of the forces, but I do agree that it sucks that one is missing in Xbox. It's easier to read.
So I'm guessing to reduce clipping, you don't want to see more than a small amount of red in the last bar on a regular basis. Obviously if you ride a massive sausage curb you will likely see a huge jump causing clipping. For me this is ok on occasions like this. In normal use I would imagine you don't want to see very much red.
Pretty much. You should only really be wanting to clip (if at all) is when you clip a big curb when FFb is heavily loaded. Just turning, and taking a small rumble strip shouldn't cause it. In the moment you do, you obviously don't get the detail you're after from the tyres so you may be missing out on information about the tyres starting heavily slip.
Since no one in SMS or Bandai Namco listens to me any more can you tell the makers of project cars 2 that even though I use the same setup the car behaves a lot differently and worse when racing against ai but when I race online it’s like a dream also how come when I’m racing against 22 opponents or more the car doesn’t turn and when it’s below that it does, also tell them to fix their crappy game instead of sitting around and doing nothing to fix all the stupid glitches in it
![[PCars 2] - Default Setup Trick](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PVHeZ776KTE/mqdefault.jpg)
3:50 Shifting advice, Torque and Power.
10:15 Tyre advice, pressure, heat, wear and camber.
19:39 Break advice.
22:14 Suspension advice.
I would be better if you could access this during replay, so you can study it it more precise to make any adjustments, very difficult to analyse when at race pace.
I agree. That would make it a lot more manageable and easier to read the data, and get a better understanding of it all. It's at least better than nothing and hopefully the guide helps people to understand it better.
Run a practice stint with the telemetry view open, record the race then watch it back ;)
Use something like OBS to record your game with telemetry view open.
Im so late to this party lol. Good thing is without really thinking about it i actually do alot of the same things setting wise. Problem is i had no idea i was adjusting settings like TC the wrong way. I assumed the higher the value the more it works lol. Oh and the engine brake i tend to use that on F1or indy just enough to slow down a little when you dont want to touch the break. Ive been putting this at 4 or 5 also. So its nice to know i was on a path (even though i was wrong)that with a little redearch and you tube im now alot more confident i can set a base set up that i know will work for my style of driving. Also since ive only had this game for less then a week i still feal like i got here just in time. I be binge watchin till i learn it. Thanks bro for this very well done and thought out tutorial.
MrSrimera there’s an app you can use for that as well. It’s like $9 for each game you want the telemetry data for
Hi Yorkie, I just thought I'd leave a comment thanking you for this series of videos, but this one in particular has really helped me in understanding how to get the brake and tyres setup properly. I was in a race today and it was amazing the difference in braking between me and other cars, keep up the good work!
Well done as always. You've taken 1-2 secs off my lap times average. Awesome inside and knowledge. Being an American I can share with you that the Weight Jacket as they refer to it is what's used in oval racing such as NASCAR, where it's refered to as adding it removing "Wedge", which aids in the car turning left by lowering the left side of the car, or raising it, in concert with the lateral weight bias. The idea, as always is to aid in the corners, but adjust the wedge during pit stops to decrease either over or understeer. Thank you, every one of ur vids has helped me greatly. Well done, I wouldn't change a thing!!!!!!!
@Yorkie065
This was the best explaination i found on your link you sent. Perhaps add it in description? I think its superb!
When it comes to shifting points, don't look for the torque but for HP.
The theoretically perfect shifting point is when your current HP match the HP you'll get in the next gear.
Taking a fictive example:
5500 RPM = 680 HP
6000 RPM = 700 HP
6500 RPM = 715 HP (peak)
7000 RPM = 700 HP
7500 RPM = 650 HP (redline)
4th gear ratio: 1.20
5th gear ratio: 1.03
Gear ratio quotient: 1.03 / 1.20 = 0.86
Now let's find out the optimum gear shift point.
1) Shifting at peak HP: 715@6500 -> 6500 x 0.86 = 5590 RPM -> ~680 HP --> You're shifting too early because your HP drop too much
2) Shifting at 7000: 700@7000 -> 7000 x 0.86 = 6000 RPM -> ~700 HP --> Perfect shifting point because HP of 4th and 5th gear match up
3) Shifting at redline: 650@7500 -> 7500 x 0.86 = 6450 RPM -> ~715 HP --> You're shifting too late because your HP already dropped down too much
Hey thanks for making these videos, love the informational style grouped into separate videos. You are the only one I have seen clearly separate your videos.
Not a problem! Glad you're enjoying them :D
Thanks for uploading these videos and taking the time to do them. Most of what I know about setups came from watching your videos. Everything explained perfectly in detail and in a way that non-Aliens can understand :D
Thanks Yorkie! I hope we can have some in-depth knowledge to the bump stops, travel and ride height in future episodes and how best to fine tune these, in fact I hope you do a fine tuning video explanation for each other of the tuning options in the future, many thanks.
great content Yorkie! I'm recently new to PC2 and you have taught me quite a few things with regards to this game. I really appreciate you taking the time and producing this content. Not knowing much about the physics model in this game it's these tidbits of info -- like i had no idea about brake temps. So now I know what to look for in tuning -- because i have been having serious issues with brake ducts too small and therefore radiating heat into the tires. GT3 cars getting tire pressure at 2.0 bar (or more) -- very slippery.
I am definitely looking forward to your next videos in the series! Thanks again for the hard work and I'm sure we all appreciate the content :)
Yeah, tyre pressure of 2.0 bar on the GT3 tyres is very high! Majority of tracks in GT3 you want to be aiming for 1.80 bar hot pressure. You can go up to 1.90 bar for somewhere like Monza or Le Mans to get less rolling resistance and higher top speeds, but cornering performance will be effected. Slower tracks with a lot of slow tight corners, you can probably lower the pressures down for 1.70 bar when hot.
Link in the description to Casey's post provides the tyre pressures you should be aiming for on various tyre types.
I dont have PC2 yet put as preperation i watched all ur guides, Thanks!
Another excellent video Yorkie, Now i understand what that telemetry menu does, keep em coming !!!
12m40s: you're saying that the game physics actually models the radiant heat from the brake discs being absorbed by the tyres resulting in an increase in tyre air pressure?! It is simply incredible the amount of thought and detail that goes into developing racing simulators. Superb!
Yup, you can test this for yourself in a practice or qualifying session. Come out the pits when the brakes are cold and stop and remain stationary. Then watch what happens to your tyre pressures, they should barely change. Then start driving and down 3 or 4 laps, get the brakes nice and hot then stop and remain stationary and watch the pressures. You should see them start increasing and going way up above where they would when driving normally. If you start driving and do a few laps but a little more cautiously, you should see the tyre pressures come back down and stabalize again. It all varies depending on how much heat or how cool the brakes are.
Wow that was really informative, thanks for taking the time to put this together!
Great vid! though I don't really understand what happens with the high and low temps. Why do we have to maintain temperatures ?
Hi Yorkie, great videos, you have really helped my enjoyment of this amazing sim. I was a big fan of PC1 and am loving PC2, keep up the good work. Like mentioned by others It would be great to have access to the telemetry while in the pits. Other than that loving it.
One thing im wondering about. If you shift at the "optimum" point like you did. You gonna have 480 horsepower in the next gear. However if you wait for all lights you gonna have 500+ horspower in the next gear. Which one is really better? Its better to have less horsepower on the next gear?
My description in the video is actually slightly off. What you should be aiming for is similar similar HP when shifting up into the next gear. So as an example; say I have a peak power of 520HP at 6500rpm, and then drops down to 500HP at the redline at 7200rpm. At 6800rpm, I have a power output of 510HP in 4th gear, and shifting up into 5th puts me at 510HP before climbing up to peak power. I then know that 6800rpm is going to be the optimal shift point from 4th to 5th.
It's quite difficult to see reading the figures as they're constantly changing, but there is a thread here where Bealdor in post #4 explains it along with calculations further into the thread forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?55865-Calculate-the-optimal-shift-points
Ohh thank you for the answer and the link. This was the answer that came up to my head when watching your video. Holding it for a longer to get more power at next gear :)
Yorkie065 Do you think you could make a small video demonstrating it? I’m trying to get similar numbers, but they’re never really all that similar.
It’s kinda complex.
In most of the cases shifting at the red line is correct.
With a high powered car you should rather think about applying "close gearing" (long 1st gear and closer 2nd to max gear). Just like F1 cars at Monza.
I love the game, bought it a long time ago when I didn't have a steering wheel yet and that was a mistake.
But now that I do I'm loving it. Although I've heard it gets a bad rep. I use this force feedback a community member made and the game feels wonderful. Love all these adjustments one can make like you would irl.
I guess the main complaint about the game would be the online part, where there is some bugginess in the connectivity or something.
These series you made are essential though for a beginner like myself.
Hey Yorkie thanks for all of the video's you have helped me become a better driver :)
Excellent! Glad they have as that is the whole point of them :)
You've been a huge help. Thank you. Many queztions I had answered already. Great job breaking it down. Thank you!
Hey great vids!! What would I need to adjust as when I’m driving the bit where it says travel flashes red? Guessing something to do with dampeners? Cheers
In PCars 1 there were yellow circles around each tire depicted in the telemetry graphics. These circles would increase and decrease with the amount of weight or grip that each tire is experiencing. Once the weight or grip goes over the grip threshold, the circles would turn red. These were very important in judging the effectiveness of the suspension as you could clearly see that when the circles turn red that your suspension was no longer working. Where are they now in PCars 2?
I run with zero hud on in VR. I’m trying to drive..I don’t have time to look at that stuff. However I wish there was a way to only have the FFB telemetry on. I find that one really important as each car is different and needs to be adjusted on the fly.
Excellent, thanks Yorkie065
Very interesting as always Yorkie i learnt a few things there thank you very much.
Glad it's helped! :)
Nice, your guide vids have bean a realy good help to me, since i start watching them i improve my overall online race resolts
Ps. Sorry my bad english lol
Your English is fine. Couple of spelling mistakes but still perfectly readable.
Glad you're enjoying them and have found them useful!
So what are the four cube/section things on the inside of the suspension travel curve (between the damper icon and the curve)? It looks like they should do something. Very hard to see them.
They don't do anything, I believe they are just there for effect.
Do you shoot for correct pressure or tire temp when looking at tire pressures? (Assuming even spread)
Ie getting “correct”pressure but tires being too hot or cold.
Would you still respectively increase or decrease tire pressure to get optimum temps?
As far as I know you shouldn't use tire pressure to correct tire temp. Always aim for correct pressure. The temp can be affected by the camber or toe settings for instance and your driving habits (correct braking and accelerating without locking up or spinning tires).
Thanks for the Guide Yorkie Very helpful! Just out of curiosity what FOV are you using?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed! I'm using an FOV of 65 in the Helmet Cam.
Thanks!
great and informative whats your fov settings ?
Thank you once again. Very informative. Looking like i will be putting in some basic driving with telemetry up.
-IyamFern
Glad it was helpful!
Does anyone have the optimal pressure for the tires for this game. The current link is not working.
@yourkie065
Thank you so much now I am the second fastest lmp1 at the Nürnburg GP after the tip in camber and the temp indicators. Also did a 1:12.960 on the red bull ring GP and still room too improve.
Very usefull especially the target values!
Nicely done!
Well it would be better to use more of the gear, because it dropped from 520 to 480 when the blue just had turned on. If you kept going till it dropped in gear to you have used up the peak power and it has dropped to around 505 you would start out at 500 in the next gear. Aka faster acceleration but more burned fuel.
1 question Mr Yorkie.. when is the next DLC coming? I want the Porsche GTLM/GTE already
When it is ready. I'm not say nothing :P
Yorkie065 LOL awww 😥👍
Great content so far, but are you planning on uploading some AOR gameplay with commentary?
I am yes. When, I'm not 100% sure but I will be for definite at some point.
Where is tyre wear indicator?
I know this is an older video but i just got project cars 2 recently and cant figure out what the small graph/numbers below the rear left tire telemetry. Anyone know what that is for?. Had to edit, was very strange. My comment was something like "this video is very helpful" and contained nothing i actually typed. Strange.
I think it’s force feedback and maybe input data
Yup, so the numbers that are reading like 100/55/60/55 are the settings that you have for your FFB options, with the FFB output in the graph below.
Ah, well dont gotta worry about that. Unfortunately am using a controller, still the best racing game ive ever played. This and Dirt Rally are my favorites. Really enjoy the tip videos ya made for this game.
I thought the best point to shift up is when the torque is on its peak, because this gives the best accelaretion. So is this wrong?
No, in most cases it is not wrong. But if a car has a power curve that falls off extremely and grdaually way before the end of the gear, it may be a good advise to change before the red line. I remember certain 70s cars having that kind of curve.
Great video, I would love to see a motec video from you
Really informative video again Yorkie! About the red flashes, it flashes red when you car bottoms out briefly (height = 0.0) for a short amount of time. It doesn't seem to flash red when you run out of suspension travel or hitting the bumb stops. It also doesn't flash red when you have a constant 0.0 height and dragging the chassis on the ground, only when briefly hitting the ground. You can see it on this video here: th-cam.com/video/zi2E3tPCMdQ/w-d-xo.html.
You can also see it when you watch your own video Yorkie, set the video speed on 0.25 under the settings and go to 26:02 on this video, than check the height of the right side of the car while taking the left turn, you can see the car bottoming out briefly and flashing "travel?" red after that.
what are your thoughts on track IR 5? thanks
Brilliant! Love it as it has brought a whole new element to racing and various other games, to the point that I can sometimes struggle without it. So much more situational awareness, more immersion, am able to see into corners better so I can be more accurate with hitting apexes, very practical in the sense that I don't have a screen immediately infront of my eyes like a VR headset so I can use extra buttons on the wheel and keyboard easily. The only 2 downsides to it are that there's now an additional cable running up to the headset, and on very sunny days, I have to put blankets or towels up over the windows to block out the sunlight, as too much sunlight messes with the infra red sensors.
Where is some of your AOR race videos?
Sat on my hard drive. I haven't got round to doing these yet :(
Is there a way to get the telemetry:¿
Yup, believe there are a number of various software programs that you can use for it. RST (RacingSim Tools) is one that I would recommend as is great for telemetry with PC2.
What are the optimal tire temps? 70°C? 75? 80?
Depends on the tire you are using. Soft Slicks operate well between 70 and 85°C, Hard Slicks are best at around 90° C
redburningice Oh... Thanks!
Pretty much got it. I'll be covering tyres in a future episode and talk about temperatures and pressures more there.
Yorkie065 That would be great Yorkie!
brilliant thank you
Superb as always. Just maybe if you turn down the horrible music a bit. Its quite loud and disturbing
Thanks but I came here to find out what it meant when the suspension went red and you don't know either :/
Great help thanks
Sad to see the clipping telemetry isn't present on Xbox one
Clipping is the last bar on the FFB widget. The way I saw it explained is that each bar is a bucket for a range of forces. The 1st bar is 0-20, the 2nd is 21-40, and so on. The last bar that shows red is clipping. So if the combined total from all the bars is over 100 then you'll see the extra show on the clipping bar.
The graph that's missing is just showing you the combined amount of the forces, but I do agree that it sucks that one is missing in Xbox. It's easier to read.
So I'm guessing to reduce clipping, you don't want to see more than a small amount of red in the last bar on a regular basis. Obviously if you ride a massive sausage curb you will likely see a huge jump causing clipping. For me this is ok on occasions like this. In normal use I would imagine you don't want to see very much red.
Pretty much. You should only really be wanting to clip (if at all) is when you clip a big curb when FFb is heavily loaded. Just turning, and taking a small rumble strip shouldn't cause it. In the moment you do, you obviously don't get the detail you're after from the tyres so you may be missing out on information about the tyres starting heavily slip.
Just want to point out... you were doing 1G, not 0G... if you were doing 0G you couldn't drive the car.
Since no one in SMS or Bandai Namco listens to me any more can you tell the makers of project cars 2 that even though I use the same setup the car behaves a lot differently and worse when racing against ai but when I race online it’s like a dream also how come when I’m racing against 22 opponents or more the car doesn’t turn and when it’s below that it does, also tell them to fix their crappy game instead of sitting around and doing nothing to fix all the stupid glitches in it
Well if you are racing 22 opponents, or behind someone, then your car will feel differently due to dirty air etc..
Fallcon nope, it doesn’t matter where I am it won’t turn even when at the front
Your getting a lot of clipping
Yeah, these earlier episodes weren't the best in terms of audio quality. Things improve a few episodes further in.