35 Useful Wood Glue Up Tips & Techniques
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- When woodworking, gluing up projects can be rather stressful! So in this video I've gathered my favorite techniques, skills & tips when it comes to joining wood together.
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I have the silicone glue spreaders but I also keep a few plastic cards (mostly hotel door cards) with my glue tools. They make good glue spreaders and I can use scissors to cut them to a custom size.
Good tip!
Thank you Linn for doing a video on this topic.
Hallo Linn vielen Dank für deine Nachricht ein tolles Bild und Video und tschüß 🥳 aus Düsseldorf Germany
As a long time wood/fabric/leather worker I find your range of practical knowledge/skill in the shop to be quite inspirational!! Thank you for sharing your videos! Even the most basic topics frequently contain tidbits of new information, and it doesn’t hurt to be reminded of good old basic skills. You are quite amazing!!
So glad to hear that Sven! 🙂
The thing with smaller/thinner glue ups is that the force from the clamps extend at 45-deg from the head. The shorter the distance to the glue joint means you'll need more clamps. Fat pieces you can get away with fewer clamps because - distance - but also it acts a tiny bit as a caul. The outer strips are seeing spotty force application. To remedy that if you don't have more clamps is to put more non-glue strips on the outside to bring that 45-deg cover over more on the 1st glue line.
I put painter's tape along the seams before glue up. If you then remove the tape before it dries hard there is very little work to do. This is especially important on the inside corners of boxes that are difficult to sand and clean up. When gluing strips like in the video, I let the glue set up until kind of rubbery and then remove the squeeze out (from both sides) using a putty knife. Done properly, this removes almost all of the glue, making the final sanding a piece of cake. I NEVER us a damp/wet cloth to remove glue. This merely spreads the glue over a larger area.
Thanks for all the fun and information you provide.
I would rather hear from someone who has had much working experience than a “manufacturer’s plug” for their product and how theirs is the best. You obviously have much experience! Thanks for bringing this to us.
If you want to do it right you use marine epoxy for all your wood glue needs. Longer open times, much stronger, it can actually gap fill where absolutely none of the wood glues effectively can. It can be thickened, you could do whatever you want with it. It's also a more expensive and dramatically more labor intensive. Which of course are added bonuses
Any specific recommendations? Thanks!
Hi Linn. You can make the blue clamps in the beginning of the video stronger. Paul Sellers has a good video on retrofitting harbor freight style clamps which are very similar to your blue ones.
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Couple additional tips.
1. Account for glue swelling your joints, they need to be just slightly looser than you’d think during your dry fit. When you add the glue a joint that previously slid right together will need a heavy whack with the mallet.
2. Titebond and most pva glues can freeze once or twice before going bad. At least titebond website says so, and in my experience it seems true. The glue may separate a little and need stirring. But if it looks curdled after stirring it is ruined.
Great video!! 🎉 on complex glue ups I have to stop and remind myself to rehearse everything before applying any glue 😅
Great topic, thanks!
Great info Darbin
Thank you for the videos. I use wax paper under the glued wood. Cheap and easy way to protect the bottom clamps.😁
I know it's an extra step, and I admit, I've never had to do it myself, but end-grain glue-ups I've seen also use a a finger jointer. More surface area for the glue (like a box joint) less chance for the endgrain to spread. I used to see finger joints ALL the time for door casings, hand-rails in the lumber store.
Great video and some really useful tips. I work with glue a lot but mostly on foams and fabrics as I make mascots. So my go- to for that is contact glue and I always work outside as it can be intoxicating lol. It is always good to use glue that is appropriate for your project and I also use a hot glue gun often and have the burn marks to show 😁 I aksi dabble in upholstery so there wood glue comes in handy in certain projects. I live in a Townhouse complex and someone threw away a beautiful House of YOrk wooden Ironing board, just because one screw is missing on the one leg and the top cover
is gone. Well I saved it and busy restoring it
Dry fitting is very wise.
Hey Linn, Love the vids ...... I had a big glue up recently and wanted to continue the next day and found that my glue pot would remain "fresh" for extended periods [as long as 48 hrs] by dipping my brush into the pot and covering the pot AND brush with a very damp [not dripping] rag. A trick I learned while working with a painting crew.
Nice tip!
Another tip about hot glue. After using a tube of caulking and I want to seal the cut tip so the caulking won't dry up, I will use hot glue and drip it onto the opening.
Carpender Contracter for 47 years, I think’ it’s my opinion only, that the best clamp’s to use are the galvanized 1/2” or 3/4” pipe clamps. , they don’t bend , and when glue drys on them it’s easy removal. I was wondering if you think your using a bit to much glue ? Maybe
Close the bottle you are using to apply glue, and run it under hot water if you want to thin the glue up without adding water to the glue itself.
Unfortunately the screw on those blue bar clamps from Rockler are also aluminum. So don’t tighten them too hard.
👍
If you dent your wood - get a wet rag - and put it over the dent - use an iron to iron out the dent
Have we reached the point where "Hacks" is so overused that Techniques might get more hits.