I encountered the same problem with half drilled hole when installing new door knobs and dead bolts. The push bolt 1" hole was okay did not require re-drilling. As you suggested I purchased the Roybi door hole drilling jig to re-drill the four large holes. The jig worked extremely well I was able to easily re-drill the four holes. Thanks for the great video.
Very informative video, and great instruction for using the Lenox tool, which is why I searched for this. One question. This metal door is hollow. Won't the metal buckle when tightening the screws on the deadbolt? Seems like either the metal will squeeze and buckle, OR the deadbolt won't be supported properly due to inadequate torque on the screws. Thanks.
It was a helpful video but I wish you had one that showed the process on a new door (without any existing holes) so I could see all the steps including how to make the hole that the deadbolt goes into in the door frame. :)
The key to doing that for a slab is to mark the centerline of each strike plate. Get the door hung using the This Old house video with Tommy showing how to do the hinges. Very good detail. I marked the bottoms and the tops of each strike plate on the existing jamb to the door itself on the broad face. I transferred those points to the edge of the door across. Use a straight edge to find the center of the rectangle and transfer that back to the same face of the door. The tool has a sight gage with arrow point to locate the fixture up and down. To verify you’re aligned, you can also look at the latch mechanism. It should show you that you are pretty close to dead center. It needs to be pretty close on the cross check down the latch hole. Big hole for lock has lots of play by the design standard. This old house: th-cam.com/video/8kAccMi-kGQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vIDAGdONAXW1oeIO
The metal was bent out on the opposite side, so it kinda forced me to go at an angle. Cutting through steel is always going to heat things up quite a bit
Literally this is exactly what I needed. Thanks algorithm and Facebook 😆
Haha, so glad to hear that! 😂 The algorithm strikes again!
Thanks so much! You gave me all the confidence I needed to use my jig correctly. Great video! Keep em coming.
I encountered the same problem with half drilled hole when installing new door knobs and dead bolts. The push bolt 1" hole was okay did not require re-drilling. As you suggested I purchased the Roybi door hole drilling jig to re-drill the four large holes. The jig worked extremely well I was able to easily re-drill the four holes. Thanks for the great video.
You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching and for the support!
I like ryoby more then Lenox
Thank you for making this video. Fast tracked my understanding on how to use it!
Just what I needed as well! Many thanks!
You’re very welcome! Thanks for commenting!
Very informative video, and great instruction for using the Lenox tool, which is why I searched for this. One question. This metal door is hollow. Won't the metal buckle when tightening the screws on the deadbolt? Seems like either the metal will squeeze and buckle, OR the deadbolt won't be supported properly due to inadequate torque on the screws. Thanks.
It was a helpful video but I wish you had one that showed the process on a new door (without any existing holes) so I could see all the steps including how to make the hole that the deadbolt goes into in the door frame. :)
This is very straight forward process, the most important thing is the measurement
The key to doing that for a slab is to mark the centerline of each strike plate. Get the door hung using the This Old house video with Tommy showing how to do the hinges. Very good detail. I marked the bottoms and the tops of each strike plate on the existing jamb to the door itself on the broad face. I transferred those points to the edge of the door across. Use a straight edge to find the center of the rectangle and transfer that back to the same face of the door. The tool has a sight gage with arrow point to locate the fixture up and down. To verify you’re aligned, you can also look at the latch mechanism. It should show you that you are pretty close to dead center. It needs to be pretty close on the cross check down the latch hole. Big hole for lock has lots of play by the design standard.
This old house: th-cam.com/video/8kAccMi-kGQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vIDAGdONAXW1oeIO
Does this jig tell you where to cut out the strike plate on the door jam? Literally no video on TH-cam highlighting this product address this.
Saved me, thanks man!
You’re very welcome! Glad you found the video helpful!
Thank you.
It heated up because you were aiming the holesaw down.
The metal was bent out on the opposite side, so it kinda forced me to go at an angle. Cutting through steel is always going to heat things up quite a bit
@@TheRenoBrosthat person who you replied doesn’t know what he is talking about. You are right metal to metal- heat from friction
sponsored by Lenox? :P
Haha! Coming soon maybe? 🧐 Wouldn’t mind a Lenox sponsorship at all!
They want you to buy a new one every time lol they know it's going to melt