Jim Nanney it does go from the electroscan overboard. Mine has the option to go from the head to a holding tank in a no discharge zone. As for the muriatic acid solution, it is not likely considered the most environmentally friendly but given the level of dilution I believe it to be safe.
Thanks, I purchased my sailboat and it has one, but the low amp warning won’t allow it to flush. Going to attempt the muriatic acid, but no holding tank. I may just disconnect from thru hull and flush to a 5 gallon bucket to be safe.thanks for your videos!
Jim Nanney if your on the hard you can discharge into a bucket with the acid solution but if in the water I think it is fine. I would recommend making sure you mix up enough solution to ensure you have the electroscan full of the solution and factor in the volume of solution that will be in the lines.
You mention the solution at 45 minutes minimum. Raritan manual, page 5, says for muriatic solution - "Allow to stand for a maximum of 45 minutes." I believe this so the solution does not damage the electrodes. I find conflicting information here. Other than that, the system works well.
Thanks for pointing out the difference. Certainly if my times are different than Raritan, you will want to follow their recommendations to avoid problems of something is under warranty. Thanks Peter.
Great video, I just bought a boat which have that system. It’s not very commen in Europe. So it’s hard to find someone to ask. How strong is the acid you use? I can find 60%.
I don't think my last comment went through. My acid bottle doesn't list it's strength and I think the muriatic acid I bought if full strength, which is why I mixed 1.5 pints of acid into 3 gallons of water. For the metric system it would be 12 liters of water and add in 3/4's of a liter of acid.
@@Svdreamchaser hi thanks for the reply. agriculture and beekeepers use it in resolution 60-85% and those are the conditions I can get it. I think I'm trying to mix 1/11 with a 75% then we'll see what happens. :-) I just took over the boat and I never think the system is serviced. But I have to wait a bit as the boat is 1500 miles away, but it will be a nice long trip home through Europe's canals. This brings me to the question of adding salt, it just has to be salt of the purest quality right? Daniel
I don’t know if high quality salt is required. I have had great luck with pool supply salt called “solar salt” and have used larger granules of salt made for a whole house water softener for years with no problems. That said, it is worth noting that the treating element can go bad or wear out. I did have to replace the element but I suspect it was based on family members not adding the right salt content through regular use.
Sone tips of you are interested since we lived on board as a family of 4 for five years with this system, I will share the following. When you clean the system manually add salt via the toilet bowl of you are in freshwater or brackish. I started with 5 little “coffee scoops” of salt dropped into the bowl and flushed. I then flush and treat 3 times more than it takes to ensure the salted water is in the treatment system (for us this is 2 flushes). Given the length of hose that umber varies. I keep any eye on the amperage of the treatment on the Electroscan display during the treatment cycle. I then repeat the process at 6 scoops, them 7 then 4. By doing this is allows me to find the salt content that enables the highest amperage treatment. That becomes our level of salt to add with each flush.
I also don’t use a salt injection tank that Raritam sells. I feel like I have more control of the level of salt. Everyone on board is told how many scoops to use and it allows you to easily adjust that level depending on what water your sailing in (salt bay fresh) of your head uses exterior water for flushing. We use a fresh water flushing system but I know many don’t do this and leverage sea water for the flush.
We use the lazy mans method. We calculated the amount of water per flush and then just scoop solar salt in to the bowl after every flush. So for us it is 3 tablespoons of solar salt per flush. We keep a little Tupperware dish and coffee scoop type spoon in it. They do seek a salt injection tank as well but we opted for this method.
@@rastagrastag9496 I winterize mine by using RV non toxic antifreeze. Clean it out with water, then pump in the antifreeze until it"s full. In the spring rinse with water before use.
I tried this today on my system. I'm still getting the low treatment light. I will try this again and let it sit longer then the 45 min that was recommended. I really dont want to have to replace the electrode. Especially at 500$.
SVDreamChaser ok. Thanks. 12.8v on shore power so I know there is enough volts. Just a matter of leaning the electrodes. When you did the flush did you mix the acid it with saltwater or fresh water?
Fresh water. Don’t forget to calculate the length of hose and it’s volume from toilet to unit. That way you know you have the acid mix in the tank making contact with the electrodes. I mixed mine with Fresh water. You might consider mixing it a bit strong if you already tried it and it didn’t work. But your call on that (I might only do that as a last resort before biting the bullet and replacing.). I wonder if there is a way to test the electrodes (like through their resistance or something). I am not sure about that part.
Does your electro scan dump directly overboard, and is the acid solution safe to flush out overboard when done?
Jim Nanney it does go from the electroscan overboard. Mine has the option to go from the head to a holding tank in a no discharge zone.
As for the muriatic acid solution, it is not likely considered the most environmentally friendly but given the level of dilution I believe it to be safe.
Thanks, I purchased my sailboat and it has one, but the low amp warning won’t allow it to flush. Going to attempt the muriatic acid, but no holding tank. I may just disconnect from thru hull and flush to a 5 gallon bucket to be safe.thanks for your videos!
Jim Nanney if your on the hard you can discharge into a bucket with the acid solution but if in the water I think it is fine. I would recommend making sure you mix up enough solution to ensure you have the electroscan full of the solution and factor in the volume of solution that will be in the lines.
Just put back in water last Saturday. She’s at the marina now.
Jim Nanney if you have 1.5 inch diameter hose like most waste lines, keep in mine 11 feet of 1.5” hose will hold 1 gallon.
You mention the solution at 45 minutes minimum. Raritan manual, page 5, says for muriatic solution - "Allow to stand for a maximum of 45 minutes." I believe this so the solution does not damage the electrodes. I find conflicting information here. Other than that, the system works well.
Thanks for pointing out the difference. Certainly if my times are different than Raritan, you will want to follow their recommendations to avoid problems of something is under warranty. Thanks Peter.
Great video, I just bought a boat which have that system. It’s not very commen in Europe. So it’s hard to find someone to ask. How strong is the acid you use? I can find 60%.
I don't think my last comment went through. My acid bottle doesn't list it's strength and I think the muriatic acid I bought if full strength, which is why I mixed 1.5 pints of acid into 3 gallons of water. For the metric system it would be 12 liters of water and add in 3/4's of a liter of acid.
@@Svdreamchaser hi thanks for the reply.
agriculture and beekeepers use it in resolution 60-85% and those are the conditions I can get it.
I think I'm trying to mix 1/11 with a 75% then we'll see what happens. :-)
I just took over the boat and I never think the system is serviced.
But I have to wait a bit as the boat is 1500 miles away, but it will be a nice long trip home through Europe's canals.
This brings me to the question of adding salt, it just has to be salt of the purest quality right?
Daniel
I don’t know if high quality salt is required. I have had great luck with pool supply salt called “solar salt” and have used larger granules of salt made for a whole house water softener for years with no problems. That said, it is worth noting that the treating element can go bad or wear out. I did have to replace the element but I suspect it was based on family members not adding the right salt content through regular use.
Sone tips of you are interested since we lived on board as a family of 4 for five years with this system, I will share the following. When you clean the system manually add salt via the toilet bowl of you are in freshwater or brackish. I started with 5 little “coffee scoops” of salt dropped into the bowl and flushed. I then flush and treat 3 times more than it takes to ensure the salted water is in the treatment system (for us this is 2 flushes). Given the length of hose that umber varies. I keep any eye on the amperage of the treatment on the Electroscan display during the treatment cycle. I then repeat the process at 6 scoops, them 7 then 4. By doing this is allows me to find the salt content that enables the highest amperage treatment. That becomes our level of salt to add with each flush.
I also don’t use a salt injection tank that Raritam sells. I feel like I have more control of the level of salt. Everyone on board is told how many scoops to use and it allows you to easily adjust that level depending on what water your sailing in (salt bay fresh) of your head uses exterior water for flushing. We use a fresh water flushing system but I know many don’t do this and leverage sea water for the flush.
What kind of salt solution do you use?
We use the lazy mans method. We calculated the amount of water per flush and then just scoop solar salt in to the bowl after every flush. So for us it is 3 tablespoons of solar salt per flush. We keep a little Tupperware dish and coffee scoop type spoon in it. They do seek a salt injection tank as well but we opted for this method.
@@Svdreamchaser great thank you. How do you winterize the system ?
@@rastagrastag9496 good question. I love in an area where I don’t have to so am. It actually sure about this.
@@Svdreamchaser thank you. I can’t find any info on how to winterize them
@@rastagrastag9496 I winterize mine by using RV non toxic antifreeze. Clean it out with water, then pump in the antifreeze until it"s full. In the spring rinse with water before use.
I tried this today on my system. I'm still getting the low treatment light. I will try this again and let it sit longer then the 45 min that was recommended. I really dont want to have to replace the electrode. Especially at 500$.
I hear ya. If it’s already broke I figure let it sit in there longer. :)
SVDreamChaser any other recommendations for low treatment warning lights? Boat is in salt water.
I’m sorry Rich. I don’t have any other suggestions beyond the flush and clean and validating you have the right voltage and amperage going to the unit
SVDreamChaser ok. Thanks. 12.8v on shore power so I know there is enough volts. Just a matter of leaning the electrodes. When you did the flush did you mix the acid it with saltwater or fresh water?
Fresh water. Don’t forget to calculate the length of hose and it’s volume from toilet to unit. That way you know you have the acid mix in the tank making contact with the electrodes. I mixed mine with Fresh water. You might consider mixing it a bit strong if you already tried it and it didn’t work. But your call on that (I might only do that as a last resort before biting the bullet and replacing.). I wonder if there is a way to test the electrodes (like through their resistance or something). I am not sure about that part.