Just need to say man, I absolutely love your videos. They are very well done and i hope they catch a crowd and take off soon. I rsspect the amount of work you put into your info and editing.
Bro I have vtec and non vtec motors I only had the vtec b series valve spring compressor so I drilled some new holes in it worked perfect on the non vtec
That's a really nice tool. I wish I could have used something like it when I did my Acura Legend's valve seals. I did buy a tool called the ValveMaster that worked pretty well, but it still wasn't a fun exercise because of the way the heads are mounted.
I was able to snap the valve seals in by just pushing them into place with my finger. I noticed the valve guides actually have two ridges grooved in, do I need to push them past the first snap? They snapped in, but don't seem to be all the way down, I am able to spin them on the valve guide. Is this normal? Thanks in advance. Building a B20 for boost
@@GarageBuiltHondas Same way. Remove magnets and set locks on top and they fall into place when you tap the retainer. They sell a tool on amazon for removing oil seals for about $10. Works great.
I know this may sound like an obvious question but once you loosen the bolts holding on the camshaft how do you pull out those retainers holding the camshaft down. I was going to try and pry it out with a screwdriver or something that I'm afraid to do screw my engine up.
Nice! Only question I have is, timing for the distrubutor when its put back on. I'm doing this with engine still int he car and the diizzy still on... is there anything special that needs to happen to keep the timing the same?
If you don't have a timing light gun, then make a small mark on the top metal piece of the distributor and the metal piece on the head. Then when you reinstall your distributor you will know where to set it and it will be in the original position before you removed it.
Do they ever just go on without the snap or click? Only some of mine did but they sure look like they are on all the way when compared to the couple that did snap on and the ones that didnt I tapped and pushed with all my weight when they were fully down but no click or snap. Just send it?
So I’m guessing you replace all four of the valves when the piston is at TDC with the rope and move over to the next four and repeat the same process correct ?
hey bro i have another question do i need to change the harness or can i use the stock ecu and harness and wat about the out the knock sensor sence the DA doesnt use one
You don't use the knock sensor with your ECU so you can even remove it off the block if you'd like to. Your stock wiring, ECU, and distributor will all work with this engine. You're basically only using the b20 long block.
+Alejandro Marquez Yes, definitely. My motor is running great now and they have great customer service! Ask for Nash, tell them I suggested you to them. Hopefully he'll remember me but he'll take good care of you either way!
Dude i'm trying to remove my b20 block (replacing head gasket) the 10mm deep socket wont fit past the long bolts in the middle, what can i use? Im taking off the cams to try and use a wrench, they're so tight and i hope i wont thread the bolts. Do i have to remove spark plugs to remove the block? Oh i'm also getting the j speeds on my crx
Once you have the cam holders removed (10mm bolts) and the cams pulled, there are ten 14mm bolts which attach the head to the block, that's it. All ten of these bolts are located in between each set of valve springs. If you are trying to remove the 10mm long bolts that hold the valve cover down, it is not necessary. Those 3 will remain on the head.
I didn't mark it, I just reset it and installed it back to TDC. It's impossible to just leave it especially if doing the rope method because you'll be turning the crankshaft to raise the pistons and you'll lose your spot.
danieljimenez494 you can also use a white out pen and mark the cam gears, crank sprocket and timing belt as another insurance way of knowing the mechanical timing is correct.
I had never searched. I've always shopped at HPT Autosport and decided to just get it. I'm always skeptical of knockoff tools especially for an important job.
That was so easy and no over the top explanations, just straight to the point! I'll definitely be giving this a go!
Best video tutorial ever straight to the point and detailed. Got my head done just by watching your video twice Bravo thank you
DUDE, awesome!! Glad it worked!
Well done video, much easier to understand than the original one with the guys that used the rope. Thanks for posting!
Thanks man!
Just need to say man, I absolutely love your videos. They are very well done and i hope they catch a crowd and take off soon. I rsspect the amount of work you put into your info and editing.
Thomas, thanks!! Thanks for the kind words and as always I appreciate the comment and support!
Watching this as I will need to do springs and retainers on my CRX! Great video man. Gives me an insight into what I need to do!
Bro I have vtec and non vtec motors I only had the vtec b series valve spring compressor so I drilled some new holes in it worked perfect on the non vtec
Good to know, thanks
Literally best video and you got straight to the point 🦾🦾
That's a really nice tool. I wish I could have used something like it when I did my Acura Legend's valve seals. I did buy a tool called the ValveMaster that worked pretty well, but it still wasn't a fun exercise because of the way the heads are mounted.
hoopfan71 This tool is awesome, I'm going to get the dohc vtec one also. My sedan needs new seals soon!
hell yeah hptautosport is where my ef is being built that Shop is amazing 😀
What are you having done?
Full build shooting for 500whp it's a street car.💪
👍🏻🚗💨
Haha
I love this tool. I personally have one myself. best purchase ever
Seriously! It made it so easy!
You videos are getting better and better!
Thanks buddy!!!
Love the video, great job!!! I will be doing this. Wish me luck!!
Good luck, you got this!
I was able to snap the valve seals in by just pushing them into place with my finger. I noticed the valve guides actually have two ridges grooved in, do I need to push them past the first snap? They snapped in, but don't seem to be all the way down, I am able to spin them on the valve guide. Is this normal? Thanks in advance. Building a B20 for boost
Do you have to adjust valves after this? Im not going to remove the rockers im just going to pull them back and hold them
I didn't. It's recommend though.
Sweet thanks
Yeah no way I’m doing this on my own yet, great vid tho
Nice tool! I had to use vise grip handles to compress/decompress my valve springs lol
I don't want to imagine the PITA that must have been! Lol
I used a deep socket with some magnets inside and tapped it with a hammer. Did a great job for almost nothing. Dont need an expensive tool.
How did you reinstall them?
@@GarageBuiltHondas Same way. Remove magnets and set locks on top and they fall into place when you tap the retainer. They sell a tool on amazon for removing oil seals for about $10. Works great.
Very good you safe my live!!!!..thank you!!!
Hope it helped!
Loving these videos bro ! Very helpful
Thanks Cyrus!
good job Jon is this the new b20 for the track hatch?
Yeah man, been trying to get it up and running! I've been poking ass!
With the cams being off, how do you tell when the piston you put the rope in is back to the top? Also, do you know what size rope you used?
You won't be able to compress it anymore. The rope stops it.
I can't remember, some nylon rope thin enough to fit into the plug hole at the bottom.
kudos bro! awesome cintent as always.
Thanks spoon!!!
I know this may sound like an obvious question but once you loosen the bolts holding on the camshaft how do you pull out those retainers holding the camshaft down. I was going to try and pry it out with a screwdriver or something that I'm afraid to do screw my engine up.
Wiggle and shake. Use a rubber mallet softly to help also.
Would this tool work with a D16a1? I gotta do my seals fairly soon.
Unfortunately no, it's a different head and it won't line up.
Do they make this same tool for a d series head?
Nice! Only question I have is, timing for the distrubutor when its put back on. I'm doing this with engine still int he car and the diizzy still on... is there anything special that needs to happen to keep the timing the same?
If you don't have a timing light gun, then make a small mark on the top metal piece of the distributor and the metal piece on the head. Then when you reinstall your distributor you will know where to set it and it will be in the original position before you removed it.
Okay, can I do this without messing with the distributor? Just to make things simple?
Do they ever just go on without the snap or click? Only some of mine did but they sure look like they are on all the way when compared to the couple that did snap on and the ones that didnt I tapped and pushed with all my weight when they were fully down but no click or snap. Just send it?
Yes, they'll just slide down sometimes without much notice of a snap/click. You'll be fine.
Also ALWAYS turn the crank counter clockwise
+Ryan Kay 👍
After that you need to adjust the valves
that pretty creative 😂
Where can I find oem valve stem seals for a b18b1? The ones I see for sale on eBay say only for gsr and type r.
Hondapartsunlimited.com
So I’m guessing you replace all four of the valves when the piston is at TDC with the rope and move over to the next four and repeat the same process correct ?
Correct
Garage Built Hondas THANK YOU!!
YW! 👍
what tool is that please?
www.ebay.com/itm/HPT-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-B-Series-Cylinder-Heads-B18-B20-LS-Non-V-Tec-/301375436770?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
when installing the valve seals my mechanic just lightly hammered the seal until its in place
is that an ok way to do it???
Yes
hey bro i have another question do i need to change the harness or can i use the stock ecu and harness and wat about the out the knock sensor sence the DA doesnt use one
You don't use the knock sensor with your ECU so you can even remove it off the block if you'd like to. Your stock wiring, ECU, and distributor will all work with this engine. You're basically only using the b20 long block.
+Jon Widmer ok cool bro thanks and do u recomend be ordering from the same site u did?
+Alejandro Marquez Yes, definitely. My motor is running great now and they have great customer service! Ask for Nash, tell them I suggested you to them. Hopefully he'll remember me but he'll take good care of you either way!
What's the name of the song in your video?
Did you check the description? Can't remember if it's in there.
Dude i'm trying to remove my b20 block (replacing head gasket) the 10mm deep socket wont fit past the long bolts in the middle, what can i use? Im taking off the cams to try and use a wrench, they're so tight and i hope i wont thread the bolts. Do i have to remove spark plugs to remove the block?
Oh i'm also getting the j speeds on my crx
Once you have the cam holders removed (10mm bolts) and the cams pulled, there are ten 14mm bolts which attach the head to the block, that's it. All ten of these bolts are located in between each set of valve springs. If you are trying to remove the 10mm long bolts that hold the valve cover down, it is not necessary. Those 3 will remain on the head.
+Jon Widmer genius thanks, i was trying to remove the wrong bolts. Got it off, putting it back together now.
+Ab CRXsi Awesome!!
nice, I also just replace my valve seals
👍
Man, I'm about to do a valve job on my RD1 Crv. Burnt valve cylinder #4 almost no compression.
Good luck
@@GarageBuiltHondas we're about to find out hahaha thanks
Plug or tape off any places parts can drop into the engine. Like, if it can it will.
Good tip. One I've learned since then.
Air works good
I tried, I'm not comfortable with my air compressor. It'd suck for the valve to drop!
True you can also add a pressure tank to help boost your your air for other things lol . I did a valve seal replacment on a v8 yesterday interesting
I have a pretty weak harbor compressor so I got paranoid trying that out. I resorted to the rope method to avoid a headache!
when you remove the timing belt do you have to mark where it was? or does it move at all?
I didn't mark it, I just reset it and installed it back to TDC. It's impossible to just leave it especially if doing the rope method because you'll be turning the crankshaft to raise the pistons and you'll lose your spot.
danieljimenez494 you can also use a white out pen and mark the cam gears, crank sprocket and timing belt as another insurance way of knowing the mechanical timing is correct.
Dont buy that overpriced tool, buy the knock off on ebay for $25
+Ryan Kay I had never seen it before I had already bought this, otherwise I probably would have.
Maybe they're not making the knockoffs anymore.
I had never searched. I've always shopped at HPT Autosport and decided to just get it. I'm always skeptical of knockoff tools especially for an important job.
Watching this as I will need to do springs and retainers on my CRX! Great video man. Gives me an insight into what I need to do!
Nice, I subscribed to your channel a day or do ago, I like the CRX and content!! keep it up!!