I have had several issues on my 2016 Toro 30 in TimeMaster. It NEVER starts hot. There was a recall to change the crummy paper fuel filter, but i solved that design flaw, where the fuel feed is only 1/2 in drop from the tank outlet to Briggs 120000 series engine carb. I lashed on my Honda GCV190 Tank and a nice long hose, with a Disc filter and Shutoff valve from Home Depot. The Briggs recall is to install a metal HEAT SHIELD between the cyl head and float bowl, to fix hot restarting. I often do better than that, just get some silver foil faced R-MAX foam insulation, maybe cut 3x5in,, smash a recess to fit behind the float bowl with a small hammer, and shove it in place above the black plastic belt guard cover. surfaces, that worked for a few years,then needed to cool things down with Starting fluid or Gumout to restart hot. I then replaced the carbs several times with the inexpensive ones on Amazon. Worked a little better than Briggs OEM. FINALLY, I did replace the Magneto coil and shutoff switch, but yesterday PROVED THE NEW ONE IS INTERMITTENT. Got an adjustable Spark Tester, set for 10KV gap or larger - NO OUTPUT!!!!!!!!!!! Then I took the old one, sanded the pole pieces and TAPED the entire HV lead with 3M Electrical tape, and split the plastic insulator sleeve from my new Spark Tester, covering the CHAFED section where the muffler heatshield abradedi it. BINGO, it finally started! I then checked the Compression cold, but forgot to open the throttle plate - it read almost 30lbs. We also replaced the crummy HEAD GASKET again, with the 2nd gasket in the $42 Amazon kit, which HAS A NICE METAL fire ring, but is for the 223CC Upgraded engine all the Yard Service guys pay $500 new, to finally fix the underpowered temperamental 190. I found the old gasket BLEW OUT near the Exhaust side, a second time, vapor from all my Starting Fluid was coming out. Another telltale sign was the 4 head bolts were NOT TIGHT. I should have retourqued to the 125 in-lbs spec AGAIN after a month. Since 70lbs seems to be the spec for these 190CC motors, I WILL be buying a new Piston, Rings, and Wrist pin set, and the 2 different length Rod bolts to raise the crummy 30lbs that is causing stalling issues. And my friend set the VALVE clearances ay 0.006in, AFTER INSTALLING THE NEW thicker gasket. It starts if I put the choke rod in, but soon I fave to remove it, and flip the choke spring 180 degrees over, to the main governor spring post, r it will bog down too rich! When I get anther $500 saved up, I am going to Toro Menders in ATL to buy a replacement 223CC engine, and a new DECK for another $100. Final note, there is a Hi Lift Blade kit, including a new front V shaped shield that bolts in with the front wheels assy - critically IMPORTANT, IT USED TO just fill the chute with grass. ------------- for the past 8 years it will FILL the bag with even wet grass- My thoughts, nothing else is safe on my sloped back yard, and at 150lbs for me, I can easily handle this 135lb mower. Just skip the $200 more Electric Start option, because it will be clunkier to use there. Just my thoughts after 8 years of Time Master troubles. And I replaced many broken cables, worn bearings, and belts Fyi, Hilary in GA
Thanks for the part numbers. Huge help. I just replaced mine. You can undo the blade bolt nut next time. Put an Allen wrench or something heftier than a screwdriver to lock the pulley in place as you show, but a screwdriver will bend (ask me how I know). The nut is held on with about 100 lb ft. Once it’s removed, the entire blade and bolt slide out under the mower and the pulley comes off. Don’t need to angle grind your lawnmower.
Thanks - have just changed mine for the first time tonight and cut it how you demonstrated and it will be so quick and easy to do next time 😎 appreciate it!
I tipped my mowere over and I just used my hand to push the spring forward a little bit and then used a flat bar to help keep it there. Was way easier than getting under it and doing it.
What in the world. Using a grinder and Sawzall and painting all to avoid taking one nut off? I just completed this belt change and taking that spindle nut off is not hard.
I worked at a Toro dealer for 10 yrs. Never saw a larger piece of junk than these units. Tractor Supply can't give them away. Might as well be an EV unit.
I have had several issues on my 2016 Toro 30 in TimeMaster. It NEVER starts hot. There was a recall to change the crummy paper fuel filter, but i solved that design flaw, where the fuel feed is only 1/2 in drop from the tank outlet to Briggs 120000 series engine carb. I lashed on my Honda GCV190 Tank and a nice long hose, with a Disc filter and Shutoff valve from Home Depot. The Briggs recall is to install a metal HEAT SHIELD between the cyl head and float bowl, to fix hot restarting. I often do better than that, just get some silver foil faced R-MAX foam insulation, maybe cut 3x5in,, smash a recess to fit behind the float bowl with a small hammer, and shove it in place above the black plastic belt guard cover. surfaces, that worked for a few years,then needed to cool things down with Starting fluid or Gumout to restart hot. I then replaced the carbs several times with the inexpensive ones on Amazon. Worked a little better than Briggs OEM. FINALLY, I did replace the Magneto coil and shutoff switch, but yesterday PROVED THE NEW ONE IS INTERMITTENT. Got an adjustable Spark Tester, set for 10KV gap or larger - NO OUTPUT!!!!!!!!!!! Then I took the old one, sanded the pole pieces and TAPED the entire HV lead with 3M Electrical tape, and split the plastic insulator sleeve from my new Spark Tester, covering the CHAFED section where the muffler heatshield abradedi it. BINGO, it finally started! I then checked the Compression cold, but forgot to open the throttle plate - it read almost 30lbs. We also replaced the crummy HEAD GASKET again, with the 2nd gasket in the $42 Amazon kit, which HAS A NICE METAL fire ring, but is for the 223CC Upgraded engine all the Yard Service guys pay $500 new, to finally fix the underpowered temperamental 190. I found the old gasket BLEW OUT near the Exhaust side, a second time, vapor from all my Starting Fluid was coming out. Another telltale sign was the 4 head bolts were NOT TIGHT. I should have retourqued to the 125 in-lbs spec AGAIN after a month.
Since 70lbs seems to be the spec for these 190CC motors, I WILL be buying a new Piston, Rings, and Wrist pin set, and the 2 different length Rod bolts to raise the crummy 30lbs that is causing stalling issues. And my friend set the VALVE clearances ay 0.006in, AFTER INSTALLING THE NEW thicker gasket. It starts if I put the choke rod in, but soon I fave to remove it, and flip the choke spring 180 degrees over, to the main governor spring post, r it will bog down too rich! When I get anther $500 saved up, I am going to Toro Menders in ATL to buy a replacement 223CC engine, and a new DECK for another $100. Final note, there is a Hi Lift Blade kit, including a new front V shaped shield that bolts in with the front wheels assy - critically IMPORTANT, IT USED TO just fill the chute with grass. ------------- for the past 8 years it will FILL the bag with even wet grass- My thoughts, nothing else is safe on my sloped back yard, and at 150lbs for me, I can easily handle this 135lb mower. Just skip the $200 more Electric Start option, because it will be clunkier to use there. Just my thoughts after 8 years of Time Master troubles. And I replaced many broken cables, worn bearings, and belts Fyi, Hilary in GA
Thanks for the part numbers. Huge help. I just replaced mine. You can undo the blade bolt nut next time. Put an Allen wrench or something heftier than a screwdriver to lock the pulley in place as you show, but a screwdriver will bend (ask me how I know). The nut is held on with about 100 lb ft. Once it’s removed, the entire blade and bolt slide out under the mower and the pulley comes off. Don’t need to angle grind your lawnmower.
Thanks - have just changed mine for the first time tonight and cut it how you demonstrated and it will be so quick and easy to do next time 😎 appreciate it!
what is the length of the self-propelled strap in centimeters
Do you know where to find torque values for the Timemaster bolts?
Why not just take the tension spring off the transmission, really easy to release and tension.
I tipped my mowere over and I just used my hand to push the spring forward a little bit and then used a flat bar to help keep it there. Was way easier than getting under it and doing it.
What’s the name of the belt that’s in the inside , that makes the back wheels move?
Drive belt moves the wheels. I need to know what the blue one is called. Lol part numbers helped though. The ribbed belt is the deck belt.
The blue one is called PTO belt. Power Take Off. Belt
What in the world. Using a grinder and Sawzall and painting all to avoid taking one nut off? I just completed this belt change and taking that spindle nut off is not hard.
Thanks from the uk
I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO 👍👍👍👍👍👍YOU ARE GOOD😱😱😱😱👍👍👍👍👍I AM ALMOST 80 WORK ON MOSTLY GERMAN CAR 👍👍👍👍MY SON HAS AMG TUNED E63
I worked at a Toro dealer for 10 yrs. Never saw a larger piece of junk than these units. Tractor Supply can't give them away. Might as well be an EV unit.
Ridiculous. This is a simple replacement.