This is one of the best youtube videos I've watched. Period. Great information, clear and concise, and your demeanor and presence is absolutely relaxing. Didn't get stressed about this job at all thanks to your encouraging tone. Would totally kick it with ya! See ya on the road!!!
I really appreciate the discussion about batteries at the end of the video. People really try to make you feel bad for purchasing Goal Zero now a days. I started my solar journey with Goal Zero about 5 or 6 years ago. After comparison of several other companies solar power stations (for my needs) I still came back around full circle to Goal Zero. Nobody ever talks about the components that Goal Zero exceeds in.
I agree! There is some amazing systems out there and tech is developing fast, but the Yeti platform is still the best for many applications, including how I use PPS.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Some units at times have problems acting erratically including my 6000x. Unit stops giving out a charge and sounds an alarm without reason.
Brian, I did this setup and was able to test it out at Overland Expo. It worked out great! My Yeti 1000x was down to 60% overnight running the fan and the 23Q Bouge fridge. In the morning, it was back out to 100% in less that 3 hours! Thanks for this video!
@@DIYOutdoorLife i had it under the trailer as there was no threat of rain. But, when I get the tongue box on, it will go in there. I'm so happy I watched this video!
Well, I guess I am becoming a battery nerd! I am just beginning the journey on solar generators/off grid power. I have been bingeing your videos and find them helpful. Appreciate the honesty talk on what is really the weak link in the “all-in-one” generators. There is no possibility at this time that I could build my own system because I don’t have the knowledge and don’t want to take a risk with my funds in that way. I appreciate that there are these generators that make it more simple for a noob to get started in solar/off grid camping. Thank you for your content.
I love your solution. I have long been considering adding a lithium battery to my little Rpod trailer. However, after watching many YT videos, I have come to realize they are done by people who park their RVs in the desert. I also, don't like the fact that I have invested a lot of money that sits with my RV in a storage lot. Having the ability to use your Goal Zero/Jackery/Bluetti solar battery at home during a power outage makes the best sense and optimizes your investment. I have even considered just plugging my RV, using the shore power cable, directly into the solar battery 120v, inverter, outlet. Then I can use my 120v outlets in the trailer. I know I loose efficiency, but I have small needs. I also enjoyed Todd Parker's video on how to connect a LiFePO4 battery to the Goal Zero to increase the battery's capacity. Thanks for an excellent video!
Thanks William! Check out my other videos on using power stations with RV's, I hope you find some useful content. I include the pro's and cons of plugging the camper into the inverter on other recent videos. Since the Goal Zero is the only large power station with Anderson PP's, it's the only one you can do this video's application with. I am experimenting with the Bluetti's aviation plug, but it's rated 5 amps lower than the GZ plug. Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you'll subscribe! SUBSCRIBE: th-cam.com/users/DIYOutdoorLife
Brian , I double checked all the Anderson HPP connections, fuses, and polarity. I did find that the Casita trailers are wired to houseold standards. I have a black positive wire. A white and green ground / neutral wire that feed into the trailer. I made the Anderson connection using a 2 post Busbar block . Used the 3 ring connections from the trailer to the block. Positive black on one post then grren & white neutral and ground on the other post. Used an Anderon HPP fused pigtail that has 2 ring connections red and black . Attached red to the busbar post with the Casita black positive. Then the black to the busbar post with the Casita green & white neutral/ground wires. The Anderson connections I made work fine when I attach it to the onboard AGM Casita battery. I then dissconect and have no other power source (battery ,shore, vehicle ) to the trailer Plug into my HPP port on the Goal Zero Yeti Core 1000 and the indicator light is white . Make the connection to the trailer and Yeti light turns red. No Yeti Core power to the trailer. Thanks for any additional advice or help !
Mystery from here. From what I'm reading in your case, I would do some testing on the anderson port on the yeti. Make a plug and make sure you can pull some amperage. Maybe the HPP is acting up on your unit, strange. Keep me in the loop.
Awesome videos. Really informative. By far the best I have seen. I just bought a 2016 Rockwood A frame camper and I was thinking of running my 30a with the 15a adapter to the Goal zero and when I need to charge the Goal Zero I would run my camper off the battery. The good thing about my camper is that its very minimal. Just has AC, heat and a fridge and some plugs. I would only need to use the fridge while camping and the plugs when I need them.
You are turning me into a battery nerd, but seriously, a great idea to forego the big RV battery and use a portable power system like the Goal Zero or other brands, instead, you would only need to install a much smaller battery for the braking system, if the RV has electric brakes. Thanks for the great vid !
Ha ha… We’re all nerds deep down. I still stick with 100 AH AGM… I can run my fridge, lights, fan for three days on that. That way I can take advantage of charging while driving as well. Having this option with a yeti takes the system to the next level. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Well, whaddaya know, I AM a battery nerd. ( well, maybe not really, but I'm learning stuff. ) This is such great information. I especially appreciate the simplified explanations. Actually makes me more interested. Thank you very much!
Great video very helpful!! Now while I have just the battery powered my camper it only runs the lights and the heater fan but not the outlets . If I use this method will it run the outlets also? And also how long do you think it will run some things in the camper while solar panels are connected?
The key is that this is a DC method, it’s not gonna power the outlets in the camper. You don’t want it to, that’s what kills your runtime. If you need to run something, plug it directly into the power station. How long it runs impossible to answer . It’s a simple matter of what goes in and what goes out. The biggest key we learn, is how to really keep our watts down and run very efficiently. Thanks for watching the video!
This is a great video and the inspiration for setting our Bushwacker up in a very similar way. We use a Bluetti AC200P instead of the Goal Zero which wound up not being the best option. It has more power for less money but I feel the Goal Zero is better suited for small campers like ours if your planning on charging off solar due to the 14-50V MPPT controller in the Goal Zero versus the 34-80V MPPT in the Bluetti. That 34V solar charge start voltage renders our 2 BougeRV solar panels on top of the camper useless because they won't reach the 34V needed to start charging the Bluetti. Yes I can add portable panels to reach the 34V but then I have to baby sit the portable panels instead of enjoying our free time hiking or fishing. Love the concept of the PPS powering the camper and have set up our 1968 Shasta the same way. Will probably switch to the Goal Zero or build our own PPS so we can use our rooftop panels to recharge it during the day!
Hey guys, I love your ac200p set up, it’s a shame the start up voltage on the MPPT is so high. Love the channel, and the new one, hope people will swing by and check it out!
Thanks for putting this vid together. Want to make sure I understand you. With my 12 volt set up, (2 6 volt AGM in Series) I can disconnect the battery bank that is connects to my DC fuse box, inverter, charge controller, and connect the Goal Zero to replace the battery bank? The cut off switch would have to be after the DC fuse box and before all other stuff. correct? I like the idea since we pull our Airstream with a CamperVan. I could use the Goal Zero for backup and Van Camping.
To do this, you would first have to make sure your inverter is off and stays off. Next, create a plug that simply disconnects your two batteries , the positive and negative wires that were going to your battery bank will now go to the Goal zero 1500x. By creating a plug, you can make it easy. Let me know if any questions pop up with the project.
I've been using my Jackery 500 with a 100W Harbor Freight solar panel to run my lights, charge phones/tablets/laptops, run fans, etc etc etc for a good 2-3 years now and it's still doing great. If the power goes out, I've got propane options for cooking and/or heating, and off grid options for showering and washing clothes. Granted, I'm not running my 1500W heater, the AC or the microwave or anything off of it. But it's MORE than done its job over that time. I'd LIKE to get a bigger power station... just limited funds prevent that from happening. hehe
You can also do something similar on the AC side for campers with AC/shore power. Take the shore power incoming to the breaker and install a 2 sided switch there. That way when not on shore power, you can plug in the inverter/generator and turn the switch so you never accidently turn on shore power with your solar generator attached. You could also just plug it in to your shore power port, but then your powerbank is outside and at risk of getting stolen or impacted by elements.
Exactly, there's AC options as well. The major point with this video is that the DC side will run six times as long as the AC side. There's no double inverter/converter efficiency loss, and no standby consumption. If there's a power station with a high DC output, You can use it to replace her supplemental camper battery.
Thanks for this video. Gave me a great idea for my new Yeti 1000x and my Scamp Trailer. This will be a great back up to the new LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I just added to the Scamp. Can you tell me what cut-off switch you are using here please. I'll be hooking up solar also as I work for a solar company and have access to free panels used or slightly damaged. THANKS again.
Hi Brian - Thank you so much for all of the fantastic video content and explanations. We purchased an Adventurer camper a couple of months ago and just purchased the GZ Yeti 1500x and Boulder 100w (on sale bundle during labor day). Our adventurer has an onboard generator. I would like to wire my camper up to utilize the yeti as you've explained in this vid, but want to make sure I don't do anything incorrectly considering the generator. Am I correct that your post edit comment says all is good, just don't run the gennie at the same time I have the yeti plugged in? Thank you again, seriously. I'm going to buy you a coffee :)
I answered a whole question about air conditioning before I understood what you meant… lol Check out this video for details on what you’re asking about - Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Very informative video. I've been considering buying myself a camper in the near future and I have a yeti 400 which I have connected 2-35ah batteries through the Anderson connections located on each side. My question for you is that do I need to use a sigerett adapter to connect my yeti 400 to the camper 12v system OR can I connect the yeti to the camper through one of the Anderson connections connections?
The 400 is one of the few systems from GZ that I have not owned. From what I see, the Anderson side ports allow for the AGM batteries to be chainable. I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to plug your camper in that way, it should be a direct connection to the yeti battery. Let me know how you make out!
Hi. Great ideas. I am using a Vtoman power station with extra battery. I have an old Casita and trying to upgrade the power converter it came with flipped me out. So I removed it with the dying 12v battery and hooked up all my DC trailer needs to a fuse block. Then hooked that to the Vtoman. I’ve run the Vtoman ac inverter to a new shore line( if I use it or to a mini Honda generator that’s 45 years old). Also separate lines from solar panels to V. I keep the V inside unless I need it somewhere else. My big needs are a dc cooler/fridge, CPAP, water pump, fantastic fan, and lights or device charging. So far it all works. I always boondock so no external power on the road. I use Casita like a teardrop except at my age I can stand and pull on pants. All my utilities are outside (water and cooler).
I agree, EcoFlow has made such great power stations, but they offer this feature very rarely. I almost bought the Delta pro, just because they had the 30 amp output. It would've been really nice for them to offer it with their smaller and less expensive power stations.
A question around the 3:00 mark. How is the negative wire still grounded to the chassis? How does it complete the circuit when not plugged into the Yeti? I am a battery beginner, lol. It looks like the negative gets fed into the positive wire that continues off of the kill switch. Thanks for all the great videos.
The easiest way to explain it is that both the negative and positive wire from your camper goes to the yeti,instead of the battery. I demonstrate where to cut and what plugs to use, but in essence we are using BOTH wires to the yeti instead of the onboard battery.
@@DIYOutdoorLife That makes sense, thanks so much. How about when you're plugged into the AGM battery instead of the yeti? Then where is the negative being grounded? Looks like it gets grounded into the positive wire that goes back into the camper. Thank you for all the great videos. I hope you keep making them! I'm looking at a yeti 1000 core now... $900 on Amazon hmmmmm
The negative will run directly from the - on the battery to the chassis. All other negatives from appliances bond together and go to the chassis as well.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you, I get it now. I really appreciate the explanation. I think I can do this... eventually. First I'm going to install the kill switch from your other video. Way easier to screw down nuts and mount a switch. In the meantime, I have a 12V female socket wired into my positive near my battery. So I plan on getting a 12V-male-to-Anderson extension cable, so I can directly recharge the AGM battery from the Yeti. This is still less efficient than just powering the camper from the Yeti (like in your video), but I think it's a step up in terms of efficiency compared to plugging the camper into the 120V A/C outlets on the Yeti. Edit: just found out they make 10AWG wire with ring terminals and 45A Anderson Connectors. I'll attach this directly to the AGM battery, and plug the anderson into the Yeti. STILL less efficient than what you outlined in the video, but still progress.
You don’t wanna do what you’re saying! A lot of people make this mistake, so don’t worry. The Anderson output on a yeti is not a charger, it can not safety charge a battery. It can be used like a DC outlet that can run something like a camper, but batteries require a charger to provide them with the proper profile of charge. For now, consider plugging your camper into the yeti inverter with your shore power plug. Your camper obviously has a battery charger built into it, use that with the yeti to charge the battery like you would with a gas generator. It’s going to be seriously inefficient but will get the job done. If you have any questions about this shoot me a line
@DIYOutdoorLife - Brian, awesome video! Never realized I could do this until I saw your video. Too bad I did not see this video a lot sooner. 😃 I wanted to verify something, hopefully I can explain well enough what I am asking. For the purpose of my question I will refer to "Side A" as the battery side. "Side B" will be the camper side. So for Side A, I would have both the black and red wire with its own Anderson power pole plug. For Side B, are you taking the black wire, that was terminated on the camper's frame, and instead, bringing it up to be side-by-side with the red wire that goes to the camper using another Anderson power pole connector? The third piece to this is the independent Anderson power pole cable that goes from Side B to the power pack. Did I understand everything correctly?
I think you have it! Although it's not necessarily essential to bond your chassis frame that way, it's a good practice. You will have an Anderson plug coming off the battery leads, the camper leads, with an extension cord to extend in between.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yes, I guess that is my question I need to reword. The camper lead is only one wire (the red one) right? So am I only putting on the red side of the Anderson Power Pole connector and the black plug side of it will not having any wires connected to it? That is why I asked if I needed to move the black wire, terminated to the frame, up to be alongside the red camper wire in that side of the Anderson Power Pole connector?
@@Jeffrey.1978yes, I connect the black grounding wire from the Anderson to the frame, so it can complete a circuit. In most cases, I can just happen to the existing wire going from the battery negative to the frame. In other situations, you might want to just run another wire over to the frame. in either case, you want the red from the Anderson to the converter and the black Anderson going from the power station to the frame to complete the circuit
As of January 2023, is the Yeti Goal Zero the only solar generator with the Andersen outputs? Do you still recommend only the Goal Zero for this approach? Thanks for a great step by step video.
Although the Anderson is still my favorite, the larger Bluetti and some Ecoflow units have high current DC outputs. The bluetti uses an aviation style plug. I really would have loved to see the GZ units come down more in price, perhaps offer lifepo4 batteries in some models, but I still recommend the yetis because of their quality and features. Thanks for watching!
Great channel! But i have a question: instead of DC to DC from a power station to rv, wouldnt just hooking up the rv AC cable (shore power) to the power station accomplish the same thing?
Unfortunately no. That goes from DC to AC back to DC... standby consumption.. etc This will use your capacity wayyy more efficiently, otherwise id just plug in. Thanks for watching the channel and asking a good question!
Great videos! Thank you! I have looked around for this but it wasn't immediately clear. I want to simply run my camp trailer off of a Yeti and use ALL of the interior plugs and appliances (3000x). Plugging the trailer shore power into the GZ works but also tries to charge the trailer batteries. Very inefficient as you know. Is the battery disconnect install the best way to run the trailer via GZ? It seems this video is just for the 12V stuff in the trailer and not my A/C, microwave or standard wall plugs. Thanks!!!
Hi Landon, thanks for watching. although that will work, and switching the battery will give you much better results- it’s very important to understand that it’s very inefficient. Your run time will suffer a lot trying to power that way, although the 3000 is a beast! Here’s some additional info Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Great video. I would like to install the goal zero in my camper to replace the terrible Aims 2000 inverter. I need a wiring diagram for the permanent mount. I will need relays to split shore power, generator, Yeti, 12 vdc for coach, solar 400 watt panels with Renogy controller, battery charger.
Great stuff Brian. I completed the hack as described. When not connected to the GZ (1000x) everything works fine off the house battery so I believe I performed it correctly. I am sure nothing is turned on in the RV (InTech Discover w/PD4100 converter) but I immediately get the red light fault indicator on the GZ when making the GZ connection. I have seen other commenters mention this issue also. Since my PD4100 converter supports LIO I went ahead and flipped the switch and changed the battery from Lead Acid to LIO but would still like to have the ability to connect to the GZ and run the DC side of the RV from it if necessary. Any thoughts as to what might be triggering the fault? I did discover an additional advantage of the hack is that I can use the cable disconnect to turnoff the charging from my alternator to protect it avoiding the need for a DC to DC charger. Finally is there a link I need to use to buy you a cup of coffee for all your great content. I am just not seeing it.
This issue has popped up for some folks, although it’s impossible for me to replicate with my gear. In most cases, they were able to resolve it. Some were able to find what the culprit was, typically they start by pulling fuses until they find which circuit is tripping the GZ. In one case, using the GZ 1500 fixed the issue (30a plug). If there’s not a short on the camper, it has to be an issue of overcurrent, the plug is very sensitive. I hope you’re able to get to the bottom of it, it is a really neat thing to be able to do, I use it all the time. I would start by pulling some fuses and seeing what appliance might be drawing a quick load when it turns on. Thank you for watching, also thank you for letting me know the link got dropped from this video description. www.buymeacoffee.com/diyoutdoorlife or PayPal Direct w/o fees @diyoutdoorlife
I use this exact set up to power my sprinter van and I still have the ability to use the GZ to bring in my house if I have a power outage. This video is two years old and I still don’t think there is another battery solar generator with the Anderson power pole connection to power outward.
It's a great system, I'm surprised it didn't get more popular. Almost everyone who sees it says that they didn't know that was possible. The delta pro models from Ecoflow can do this with Anderson, they are great power stations too.
@@DIYOutdoorLife you can do the Anderson power pole with eco flow? I bought them both, 2 years ago and you couldn’t. But that was 2 years ago. I think ecoflow is actually better than GZ. 2 hour recharge time, that’s amazing.
Brian , Thanks for all the solid info you present on your channel ! I have learned a lot ! I have a 2023 Casita trailer and I'm trying to implement my GZ Yeti 1000 Core as a battery source. I rigged up the Anderson HPP battery disconect and followed all the instructions to make things safe and have the Yeti being the only power source. I did get it to work using your 12volt cigarette port back-feed method. I did have to turn the Yeti 12V port on before making the connection. Is that normal ? I did not have success using the Anderson HPP method as described in this video. Is there anything inherent in the my Casita that might prevent this application from working ? Something I'm missing ? How to trouble shoot ? Thanks for any advice or suggestions , safe travels !
Thank you for tuning in. There shouldn't be anything inherent about your Casita that stops it from working . Especially since it works with the ten amp plug version. Do you have rooftop solar that's directly wired in? Did you double check to make sure you made a clean Anderson plug? If your set up is working with the backfeed hack, you should definitely be able to make it work on the 15 amp plug on your core . Keep me in the loop, I'll help anyway I can!
Thinking of doing this in a couple years in order to live full time off grid in a slightly bigger rv as this is much easier looking than building a diy solar system. If a camper has a factory inverter would that work with this system and more importantly would that have a possibility of damaging components? Thank you for all the information you provide
I would not use a factory inverter system like this. 30 A @ 12VDC is only a few amps 110v, meaning it wouldn't go very far. The inverter on the yeti however, is excellent and can run almost anything. I would hook it up so that the Anderson port runs the DC and the yeti inverter runs the outlets on your rig. You can use the app to turn things on and off and monitor.
Really enjoy your videos. Very creative. Would the 12 volt regulated outlet on a power station be able to replace the battery? I have a small trailer and would love to use your idea but only have the cigarette type adapter. Thanks.
The bummer with the other brands is that a lot of them only have the cigarette style plug. This will give you roughly 120 W of capability. I can run most everything within that range, but you will get in trouble when trying to run multiple things at once. If my refrigerator compressor is on at the same time as the furnace it would trip. So short answer yes, but the plug that Goal Zero has is 360+ watts, that’s how I’m able to run everything at the same time. Hope this helps, please subscribe!
Yes thanks so much. This is exactly what I was wondering about. So glad you make things simple for a guy like me. Bought a wildwood FSX and getting great info from you to go boondocking in Jersey. Looks like I have to go with the Yeti Goal Zero for this to work. Any news on other brands that offer outputs? Didn’t see any in comments. Thanks Brian.
I enjoy & appreciate your expertise on Batteries and Portable Power Stations . Question? If I disconnect my 12 volt battery, can I plug my shore power into my 1000 watt power station ?
It won’t hurt to try. Since I don’t know your camper or the power station, I can’t tell you for sure, but the worst that can happens is it trips. By shutting the battery off, like you said, you will prevent the power station from charging the battery, which would use up a lot watt hours. This will help a lot. You will not however, prevent the standby consumption and loss from the conversion and inversion. Although it may work, it’s not going to run for anywhere near the amount of time as running a DC connection like in this video, still will be handy though.
No, you cannot mix and match batteries like that. They were on a different voltages and resistance and you can damage gear or cause a safety issue. A PPS like Goal zero will not allow you to do it, the light will flash red and it will not work.
interesting idea...thanks for sharing...works for small loads like a fridge, fans, lights....most stuff in an RV... But not for any larger draw than that....at 900 AC watts the 120v hot plate I ran extensively off my trailer inverter on our last trip draws about 80 amps dc..... I think that far exceeds the output of the DC port on the Goal Zero and the load carrying capacity of the wire size you're using...
That’s right. Running a system like this gives you a really mobile way to charge and use the normal 12VDC items on the trailer. The hot plate would be plugged directly into the power station (2000w inverter). It’s a great way to go for the majority of folks, but it’s not going to perform better than a high dollar onboard system.
With this setup, the outlets inside won’t work, correct? Is there any way to get them to work on this setup, or would you need to just plug the trailer straight into the AC outlet on the goal zero? Would this setup allow you to run an rv AC unit?
With this set up, your camper will run just like it's on a battery, the outlets will not work. You can use the outlets on the power station when you need 110 power. I have several videos on the channel about running air-conditioning while camping . It's a pretty complicated topic, but it can be done, usually costs a decent chunk of money to do it.
No, this is a pure DC application. One of the problems with dealing with 110 off of batteries, is the inversion is very inefficient. This solution gives you 12 V DC In a creative versatile way, to use 110 vac, you would have to plug the camper into the inverter, it’s not going to last very long that way. Plug your solar panel directly into the power station for charging
Yeti’s are advertised as a house backup system. If you are worried about the elements, can’t you just store your Yeti inside your camper and run the wires in? I frequently have my awning open in light rain with my screen door open. The Yeti should have no problems inside the camper, correct? Or am I missing something?? Thanks! Andy
The system holds up very well to the elements! Inside camper works for me all the time although space can be limited in the BW. You want to avoid rain and high heat when outside, it's all easy to do. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. You've made this look easy for a beginner like me. One beginner question, even if you bypass the battery and connect to the Goal Zero, will you still need an inverter inside to use the 120 v outlets?
Yes and no. Setting the system up this way would not make your outlets work. Since you already have a portable power station, you could unplug the Anderson and plug your camper into the inverter on the power station, like you would with shore power. You wouldn’t want to do this for long, it will burn juice fast but work great for short activities. Check this out Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Curious, does the Anderson outlet on the Core provide more capacity then using the M-M cigarette lighter backfeed method shown in a more recent video ?, Just wondering which method is better to use the Core to drive the camper. I will need to add up device wattages to get a feel for this. My camper (Nu Camp Tag XL) gets picked up next Tues., my GZ Yeti Core plus Boulder 100 unit get delivered Friday. I purchased the GZ gear after watching your excellent videos.
The cigarette lighter gives you a max of around 10A of current before tripping. The Anderson on the core is around 15A. The Anderson on the 1500x is 30A! You could do almost anything you want on a teardrop and stay under 15A - I ran the fridge, furnace, water, pump, lights, charged phones with no issues.
@@DIYOutdoorLife From what I can see, it would be a ceiling fan, fridge, water pump on occasion, lighting. I may do a propane Propex down the road. Tag comes with electric heat so needs shore power. I figured the GZ Core would be a good size.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yes, am aware. Not sure how often I will need heat, we are hardened from decades of cold tent camping. Maybe a Propex at some point if we find ourselves camping NE in Nov.
@@DIYOutdoorLife As BTW, your YT's are truly excellent. Your presentation of information is just better than about any other YT I watch. You would have been a terrific teacher of technical subjects.
So glad I found your channel, such great information explained so well, thanks for that. I have a quick question, I know you explain the difference between LifePo4 and Lithium Ion. I have been looking at a Foxtheon iGo3600, which ticks many boxes for me, particularly being able to use the two batteries independently from the power station making it very adaptable. They say their batteries are "half-solid state lithium battery". I'd love to get your opinion on this type of battery please?
I'm glad you found us too, thanks for watching! As for the first part, that's actually a common misappropriation. LiFePO4 is a lithium ion battery, despite how many times people try to separate it. What they usually mean, when making that distinction, is that lifepo has some unique qualities, that differentiates it from other lithium ion batteries like Li NMC and others. Solid state and semi solid is great. It's one of the highest quality sub chemistries out there, you won't be disappointed. Thanks for tuning in!
Brian, love your info and I consider you my RV electrical guru. I'm setting up my RV and have a Yeti 1500x, 4x100W Renogy Panels (to be roof mounted), 1x100 Renogy Briefcase plus stock Mini Wini charge controller, etc. I sense that I could run all of my panels into the Yeti and use it to power my system and charge my 2 AGM 100ah batteries and even do this simultaneously. Hope to avoid duplicating the Yeti charge controller and sine inverter all together. Am I off-base?
Youre on base. I ran a system like that for years. Do you want to be able to swap the solar panels back-and-forth easily. Set it up so that you can plug them into the camper battery and easily swap over to the yeti.
@@davestahl447 you can use 10 awg going to the yeti. The DC output, using Anderson power poles, is rated for up to 30 A. 10awg will be fine to transition between the yeti and the camper. You might want to consider using a bigger plug on the camper side. They make larger Anderson connections that would be easier to use with the larger wires. In that case, you could use a 10awg wire with the larger plug on the camper side, and the 45a smaller Anderson on the yeti side.
Thanks for this info! I never even thought to incorporate my Yeti 1400 with my camper. I do have a sort of unrelated question. My camper comes with a Zamp 100 Solar Panel. I have a Boulder 100 solar panel and a 10amp controller and Alligator clips. I know I can charge a 12v battery with this... but, what I want to know is can I clip into the camper 12V with the Boulder while the Zamp is already charging it? Can I charge that 12v faster with both systems on it? ... or would I be doing a bad thing. LOL.
No problem, that would be right as rain. It is perfectly fine to have two charging systems with two charge controllers, you just don't wanna overload a battery. In your case, you are not overloading with solar of that size. If you had bigger arrays, I would have to ask about what size battery. With two 100 W panels, youre fine.
Unfortunately you can’t. Different battery chemistries with different profiles. But since it takes 2 seconds to switch from one to the next by changing the plug you can accomplish the same thing. Thanks for watching, happy camping!
Hi, Brian--I'm interested in a Roadtrek van with 400 amp hours of AGM and an underhood device to re-charge those batteries. Living in FL, I'm concerned about air conditioning day and night while off-grid. Would a PPS be a worthwhile addition, and how would that be set up? All your videos utilize your towable with an external battery. I like your Goal Zero and also the Eco Flow and Bluetti 2000's, although the latter is very heavy. I know I could simply plug the van's 30-amp cable into the PPS, but you say that's very inefficient and wasteful. I would appreciate your thoughts, and thanks.
Air conditioning is the mnt Everest of off grid living. It’s possible, but it typically requires a very large investment and some DIY know-how. Check out my video on the zero breeze, it’s not perfect, but it does work. When I’m traveling in hotter climates, I’ve used it with a lot of success. Most people with serious air conditioning needs end up going with the quiet gas generator.
Thanks for the video. I think? You can increase the Goal Zero Yeti's watt hours/performance by connecting your camper battery to the Yeti. Simply get an Anderson connector to a 8mm Goal Zero male plug and plugged your existing battery into the Yeti. You will be able to charge both the Yeti and the existing camper battery with solar panels when you're in the boonies. =
Thanks for watching. Im not sure who told you that, but that wont work. You cannot safety charge the yeti by going from a lead acid battery into the 8mm port. You can use the regulated 12v charger GZ makes and run that to the battery, but not wiring a battery directly into the solar charger. Hope this helps!
I have that too. The main reason I run outside most times is the space is tight. It’s two adults and a dog in our teardrop…lol. I also have videos showing the inside wiring.
@@donnetellomaximilian here is a simple backfeed set up. I also have an Anderson connection in the trailer for higher current capability, I don’t think I did a video on that yet. RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed th-cam.com/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/w-d-xo.html
This is a great video! Thank you! Could you detail the benefits of going this route (direct from the battery) over plugging the shoreline to the yeti? I did that last camping trip and it kept all systems running well for an entire weekend. Do you lose more power more quickly?
This will last 2-3X as long as, depending on how you use the camper. When you plug your RV directly into the yetis 110v receptacle, you’ll lose efficiency running through the inverter. On top of this, it charges the camper battery and converter back to 12v through the power center on camper. Both ways work, getting to use outlets is nice, but running through the Anderson output is the way to go for longer trips.
Thank you for this great info! So if I have an older GZ 1000 Lithium (not core, not X) that has 10 Amps through the powerpole connection, is this setup not worth it for me?
Love your videos! I bought a Yeti 1000 Core. I hooked up an Anderson connector, black to ground via the my front battery negative post, and positive to the bundle of wires running to trailer power. I can disconnect the batteries via a selector switch. Problem is, when I plug in the Yeti, at either the Anderson or Car outlet, it faults immediately, even with everything off in the trailer. I’m pretty sure I’m wired up properly, since I can plug in a smaller lithium battery to the Anderson connector and it powers the trailer, no problem. Any ideas what the problem might be?
The output on these yetis is going to be a lot more sensitive than just a battery. I'm guessing that something might be loose or miswired, but it's impossible to tell without seeing. There's also a chance that you have something that's drawing more than 15 A, even for a short period of time, and tripping the outlet. It would definitely trip the 12 V automotive, because it's only 8 to 10 A. As a troubleshoot method, I would try to pull all the fuses on the camper, plug in the yeti, and put the fuses in one at a time . Good luck with the project!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks! Good troubleshooting tip. I’ll try that later. Pretty sure I have everything 12v turned off - lights, fans, water pump, refrigerator, radio, furnace, etc - it still faults. I’ll let you know what I find.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I was in the process of pulling all the fuses and putting them back one by one. All fuses removed, no fault (yay!). I was putting them back in one at a time, when I realized I still had battery 1 selected as well. As soon as I turned it off and plugged and unplugged, the fault returned. It seems I can avoid a fault by having one of the trailer batteries turned on in parallel when I plug in the Yeti. Weirdly, once plugged into the Yeti without faulting, I can then turn the trailer battery off and still no fault and the trailer just draws off the Yeti. Weird. Maybe having the battery in the circuit initially serves as a ballast of sort to damp out whatever the Yeti sees when plugged in without a battery involved that causes it to fault. Seems to be a workaround, and I’ll let you know if it keeps working like that in practice. Thank much, regardless!
@@fastereddieb this seems to me like there's something requiring in rush current. it probably peaks very quickly and then settles down, the battery buffers it out. If you can get it to work that way, nice job! It's a really sweet boost to be able to use these power stations off of the DC!
That's basically how I built my camper van. But i disconneted ac completely from dc. But doesn't matter since I can charge my Yeti with the included charger or solar power when off grid. With the app connection I can easily remove the yeti from the car and store it at living room temperature when I dont need it. That way I can plug in any 12V battery in my camper. For example: when I am on a day trip I just take a handy 12V 12Ah agm battery. It runs all the lights and my diesel heater for a few hours and I can recharge it when I am back home. However, whenever I'll build a fixed setup I'll go for a lifepo battery with seperate charge controller etc but still the option to add a backup battery because just in case.
@@DIYOutdoorLife oh i hate and love that diesel heater. Since my van i diesel powered it was a no brainer to go for the diesel heater. It doesnt need care other than I have to run it at max sometimes to keep it clean. It runs flawlessly and is great in every possible situation where I need a "warm" car for some reason. BUT: I cant sleep while it is running. Some people say they can sleep but for me it is annoyingly loud (maybe I can sleep when I get used to it). I recommend to test that before buying one.
An older video but very useful info. A scenario maybe i've missed, What if you opt out of a battery setup? Is running a PPS primary an option? Also not using the shore power hook up, but lets say instead of your battery box, you place the Yeti there and charging the Yeti by solar panels. How/ is it possible for this configuration to run your trailer purely using a PPS. Thanks again for any insight and keep up the awesome work
absolutely! In fact, I think it would be the best way for many. It requires some DIY work to get the best out of it but some companies are helping with this. I am going to tour a camper factory this month that will sell their camper with a wired box to receive a PPS. It will connect to AC, DC, solar charging, shore power charging and car charging...pretty cool stuff. Thanks for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I will be waiting for that video. Could you just take the original connectors that goto the battery and put an anderson fitting on those to connect straight to the Yeti? I guess thats what im asking. Say I bought a used trailer and threw the battery away. Couldn't I do the exact same process you did to by-pass the battery but instead hook it straight to the positive and negative leads that would go to the battery, slice them and put anderson fittings to connect to the Yeti? Thanks for the help.
@@sgtbehrens yes, you can do that. The problem here is that you should not connect it to the tow vehicle with a seven pin or plug your camper into shore power. Since your camper uses those same wires to charge, that will not work that way. Fine to run the camper that way, but use the power station charging methods rather than connecting it to tow vehicle, camper charger, or camper solar port. Does that make sense?
@@DIYOutdoorLife Hi DIYOutdoorlife thinking of doing this mod with my trailer. I have a bluetti 200max. I would like to plug it in dc side of the trailer to the power bank as shown in the mod but also have the ac inveter on the bluetti 200max running plugged into the 30 amp rv plug of my trailer. My desire is that the AC side has to go trough the bluetti inveter with some power loss but the DC side doesn't have that same loss and both can run simulaniously . I understand to make this work, I would need to shut off my converter right? anything else?
@@danenewman800 you got it. Just make sure the load center and converter aren’t interacting with the battery. Usually simple to stop the battery charging and AC-DC conversion
Hello, great video. I have a GeoPro camper and a yeti 1500x so I would like to have this as an option. I took a look at my wiring and see that there is a short ground wire that connects to the trailer and another thick black wire that runs somewhere else. Do I need to snip both black grounds and make them into one ground wire to make this work? Just not sure why I have two black grounds?? Hope you can help. Thanks.
Without seeing your system, I can’t say what would be best. The grounds will likely all bond to the chassis. There’s several safe and effective ways to do this and you don’t really even have to remove the house battery negative to add the GZ. Is there 2 positives? Does the second ground go to the solar ready port?
Thanks for the quick response! So, there is (1) positive 4 gauge wire, (1) negative 4 gauge and (1) negative 10 gauge wire. All fastened to the battery on (1) positive and (1) negative terminal. Also, the camper does have a solar panel pre installed and wired. The thing that throws me off is the negative terminal has (2) ground/black wires….(1) short, 10 gauge wire that goes straight to the frame from the battery and (1) 4 gauge that runs under the camper along with the 4 gauge positive wire where it disappears into the camper. I’m leaning towards the power poles need to be installed on the (2) thicker 4 gauge wires and just leave the 10 gauge alone. However, I got the 45 amp Anderson power poles in. It doesn’t look like the thicker wires will fit on the metal pieces where I would crimp the wire too? Not sure if they make power poles that fit the thicker 4 gauge wires? If so, let me know. Disclaimer: I’m not exactly sure if they are 4 gauge wire, it was just what my gut tells me….lol. However, They are considerably thicker when compared to a 10 gauge wire. Hope I’m explaining this clearly. If not, I’ll just wing it. Thanks!!!
@@chrislucero758 I think it would be irresponsible for me to guess here, but I can probably point you in the right direction. Let’s talk theoretically… 4awg seems way overkill, I’m guessing maybe 6 or 8. Since the yeti will trip at 30 amp, 10awg at these distances would carry the current. There are many things you could do to make this work, just don’t jeopardize the integrity of the campers normal functioning, when on house battery. Maybe installing a “1,2, off” switch might be best. Sometimes they’re hard to find, so “1,2, both, off” would work as long as you were careful not use “both”. You could add a Anderson, with the red going to “2” and black going to the chassis where your smaller battery black goes. “1” would go from battery to the heavier red wire that is currently in place. This would allow you to get 10 or eight gauge wire that fits your Anderson plug and provide a simple to use switch between the camper battery and GZ. Don’t use “both” … switch from GZ yeti or camper. Food for thought. Thanks, Brian
The anderson method is for camper "DC". To use AC outlets, you could run through the outlet on the power station but it wont have near the run time. it's a far better idea to run this way and get a tv that plugs into DC plug like automotive/cigarette. Thanks for watching!
Great video bud! Is there any possibility you can show us how to install that switch to interrupt house batteries from the RV in favor of the Goal Zero? Been trying to go full Boondocking for a while, you’ve been a godsend! Also, do you think as possible to chain or Daisy chain two or more Goal Zero 1500 X together? cheers! 🫵🏻🍺🍺
Hi, thanks for watching! I can definitely do that but it will take a while, I have a lot of videos pre-filmed and ready to go. Here's a video I did on a master switch, it's basically the same . I will link the product to the right switch to do what you're saying below it. Installing Master Switch on Camper Trailer | RV Kill Switch th-cam.com/video/Qn1gx3ZG9S0/w-d-xo.html amzn.to/3VP4wVJ * don't use one with a "both" setting As for the Goal zero question, there's no need to chain them together. They make a 3000 and a 6000 or you can add tank batteries to any of the systems. They also have a brand new 4000 6th gen model that is a huge upgrade. amzn.to/4aPNuuN
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks so much Brian! My rig is a 32 Entegra Esteem that came with two 100 amp house batteries, as you probably know crappy and don’t last too long, three days of mild use and boom, dead! I do have a master switch on and off already installed. Since I have three GoalZero’s 1500x I figured I could use two of them together using a similar configuration in order to bypass the original factory setting for mostly boondocking, and charge ‘em as we drive with the “goal zero yeti link” from the alternator. I thought your idea was genius by flipping from direct DC power or Boondocking with a GoalZero as needed! I been looking for an alternative, never found it until now with you! Cheers friend! 🫵🏻🍺
@@MightyMoeBanker that set up should work really well. Swap the on off switch with the one I linked and you'll be able to simply switch over to one of the yetis. You can keep one charging while running on the other and switch when needed. Having three is the way to go, I know it's pricey, but it gives you so many options.
Great video and I'm going to attempt this application. I have a question. I have a renogy 12 volt gel 100ah deep cycle battery for my camper (winnebago hike). I was told I need to have a trickle charger( I could use my goal zero 1000) on the camper battery when I boonedock. Do I really need to do that ?
I might be confused by what you’re asking. That gel battery does need a trickle charger. A good one, like the ones made by NOCO is recommended. I wasn’t sure if you were asking whether you need the battery, or the trickle charger. Using both that battery and the Goal zero by alternating it’s gonna be a great system, especially if you can add solar. Having the simple plug there makes it very easy to go back-and-forth. Shoot me an email at diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com if you want links to some stuff or ideas on using both batteries. Thanks for watching!
There’s some really great information here! My question is: do they make these Anderson connectors to accept bigger wire? It appears that the wires coming from my camper going to the battery are 8 AWG. I tried several times using these connectors and it seems the wires are just a little too big to be crimped properly. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
Yes, they do. I’ll attach a link for the set of plugs you’ll use on the camper side. You can use 10awg wire and the normal plugs for the wire going to power station. In other words, use the larger plugs for the connection going from your battery to camper. Your extension wire, running from that plug to the power station can be 10 gauge, with one big plug on one side and normal plug on the side goes into the Power Station. Let me know if this makes sense, it’s an easy job . amzn.to/3JbhPI6
Great rundown. Question: I have a tiny truck camper with existing wiring into an empty battery cabinet for a few lights/outlets, pump, and heater fan. Could I just run the 12v ouput from my Yeti using your system into what appears to be the 14ga wiring (that was intended to go to the old battery)? Not a lot of draw, would be nice to not re-wire lights and such from the GZ
Yes, absolutely! Assuming your truck was wired properly, 14awg wire can handle your total load (less that 15 amps). The APP port on the x series can do 30 amps and the core can do 20 amps...you'll be fine either way. Have fun with it, hope you'll subscribe! SUBSCRIBE: th-cam.com/users/DIYOutdoorLife
Thanks for the great video. I have two other power stations; Wagantech Lithium Cube 1200 and EcoFlow Delta Pro. I would like to be able to plug these systems directly into my R-pod trailer with either one. Could I plug them into the shore power port on the side or connect them through the battery port like you have done here? Instead of using the anderson plug port, could I connect using the lighter socket outlet?
The delta pro has a high output Anderson, that will work. When using a cigarette style plug, you can only draw 10 amps, opposed to the 30 amp shown in this video. The delta pro will do this. Also, I’ll link the video I did showing the lighter socket.
Hey I did everything you said thought it would work but when I hook up my 1000x to the trailer the 12 volt power light on the yeti turns red? Goal Zero told me to hook up a Anderson to ring terminal connector to my fuse box? Don’t really understand that? Did I miss something or do I need something else? Thanks, Jason K.
Hi Jason, what kind of camper do you have? If you follow what we did in this video, it is no different than hooking it directly to the converter with ring terminals. The 1000x does trip a lot sooner than the 1500 but still works, I do it all the time. Hope you’re able to get it figured out, this is a very handy way to use the yeti.
This video is exactly what I needed to see. I'll be hooking up a yeti 3000 to a 5th wheel. I like the idea of the kill switch as well!! Anything I should watch out for?
@@DIYOutdoorLife I have been putting the project off, but I now want to tackle it. The currunt wire the 5th wheel has going to the battery is 6awg. I have been looking for a Anderson 45 amp plug kit and an Anderson 6awg extension cord, but I can't seem to find it. Would it be possible for you to help me out and point me in the right direction to find where I can buy this or suggest something else? I appreciate your help!!
@@scottwalker4968 you won't find a six AWG extension, since the 12vdc output on the GZ is 30 a, you can use 10awg The plugs can be adjusted if the orientation isn't correct. amzn.to/3LIgtX9
Unfortunately no. I have installed them before and they’re relatively easy with the instructions. If I get a chance, I’ll put a video together. Thanks for watching!
Such a helpful video -- thank you! I would like to do the same with my InTech Exlplore but there are 4 wires coming off the battery (2 positive, 2 negative). How can I determine which is the appropriate wire to connect my anderson PP to connect to my Yeti?
Can you trace them out? One of them should be powering the camper, the other might be coming from a charger like a solar input. Feel free to email me a photo if you want help.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I *think* one set of wires runs to power center that converts AC to DC power and I *think* the other runs to the Zamp solar port. I can send a pic if you wouldn't mind confirming. And please let me know how I can buy you a coffee/beer/cheeseburger for helping me out! Thanks!
@@sarabethL4 that sounds right to me! You’ll be installing the plug on the wires to the converter. They should be a heavier gauge than your solar wires. Send a pic to DIYoutdoorcontent@gmail.com www.buymeacoffee.com/DIYOutdoorlife Or PayPal @diyoutdoorlife Thank you for that offer, don’t feel obligated, happy to help!
Yes. Its larger and cheaper. Even though I love this yeti, the oupes price is impossible to match. Oupes Mega 2 - 2048Wh Portable Power Station Solar Generator th-cam.com/video/ruji-D1fYN8/w-d-xo.html
Yes, the fact that it has all of the features you need and can be used for more than one thing makes it a great option still. I still highly recommend getting a good battery for the trailer as well, and ultimately it comes down to how much capability you actually need on your trailer. I have 100 amp battery and GZ 1500 and it's a great combo!
This gives you 30amp DC instead of 10amp. 10 amp from other video gives you the minimum basics, with 30a I can run all of the DC stuff at once if I wanted. It’s also nice with a teardrop to keep the power station out of the cabin, especially helpful with the large power stations.
I have a couple of questions . I have an eco Flo river pro 1. Does shore power charge your battery 2. In a pinch would plugging in the power station to the shore power via 15 amp charge the battery . I understand there would be alot of wasted energy however wanted to understand that before I even attempted it
Hi Scott, Shore power does charge my camper battery. If I want to use shore power to charge the yeti, I use the built in charger on yeti and not camper. Yes, plugging in your camper through the PPS does work in a pinch, I do it all the time. You just have to make sure that your power station, the Ecoflow pro inverter can handle the draw of the camper charger. It works fine on my camper. Check out this video if you haven’t seen it th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
hello sir. i have recently purchased a 20 foot wildwood. the ac wall outlets and furnace will only work on shore power. if a purchased a jackerry unit would i be able to plug my camper into it and have enough power for light use.
Since the battery supply used during dry camping is direct current, what you’re saying is standard about outlets. Unfortunately, I would need to know a lot more about your situation to answer this accurately. A Jackery can not be used the way the goal zero is in this video. You could however bring it along to plug things directly into it. Sorry I couldn’t be more help, thanks for tuning in.
Great video, I just recently bought a Yeti 3000x. And am going to run my Rv the way you ran your RV. I have a question, since you brought up the difference between yeti lithium battery and Lifepo battery. Anyways, like I said, I have a yeti 3000x and I also have 4x 138Ah Lifepo batteries. Is it possible to extend the Yeti 3000x battery capacity by connecting my batteries to it? I was thinking by using the Yeti link. But wasn't sure if it would work. Hope to hear from you soon.
Hey Chris. Right now, the link system does not support lifepo... Goal Zero keeps saying that's going to change. For the time being, I'll share what I do. Get a simple clamp on female 12 plug. Attach it to the LifePo and plug the GZ car adapter into it. It charges the Yeti between 110-140 watts in per h. If your LifePos can be hooked in parallel, this would continue to charge your Yeti for over 6500 wh!!! You could run solar during the day and pop the car charger in after sun down. Shoot me an email if you want a link to the plug I use. diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Yes, but you're going to need to know how to keep those systems isolated. if your factory solar runs directly to the battery, you'll be disconnecting it at the same time as your battery and it'll work like a charm. If the solar is wired to fuse block, within your converter box, you'll likely have to figure out how to disconnect that easily, at first you might just be able to pull that fuse, long-term a switch would be better. Shouldn't be too hard. Let me know how you make it!
Just did a test run with my Goal Zero 1000 core in the kitchen (before boondocking next weekend for 4 days). Ran a Mr Coffee it draws 805 watts. When I switched to see the Amp draw it was 61? Is calculating at 12 volts when I am plugged in to the 120 volt outlet?
Also ran an electric tea kettle which consumed 30% of the power. 1342 watts for about 5 min. Won’t be using that LOL. I know I can make coffee on the gas stoce just teating.
The experimenting can be a lot of fun. It’s amazing that a system this small can even run something over 1300 watts! In your example, 61 would be DC amps. If you divide the watts by the volts, you’ll get amps. Your coffee pot was likely drawing around 7.5 AC amps. You’ll find using any device that gets hot will use a ton of wattage. So like you said, using LP for coffee and tea water will be a huge saver. Have fun and keep sharing your results, it’s always nice to hear what people are discovering.
Great video! I forgot to ask you before but where can I purchase a Dura Faucet Spout (with valve control) like the one you have shown in the other video?
Hey Frank, the newer models are more tricky than the older models. Can you send me a photo of the port where spray hose plugs in. DIYOutdooContent@gmail.com
Ordered my 1500X today (REI 20% sale). Do you have a preferred vendor for the wire and Anderson connectors? Thanks again for you responses to my inquiries.
Check out the links in the video description. I keep updating those video links with good quality low-cost options. Congratulations, it’ll be a lot of fun .
Thanks for the vid. I have a 1500x and am looking to acheive the same thing- boondocking solution to power RV. QUESTION: Is doing this more efficient than just plugging the RV into one of the AC plugs on the Yeti? Why or why not?
Tremendously more effective. The reasons are simple. By using the inverter you are losing around 15% in inversion loss. You are also losing 7 to 8 watts an hour to standby consumption. Your camper is then going to convert it back to DC, you will lose 15% there. In a head-to-head comparison, this use of the Anderson output will prove to be wayyyyy more efficient and last longer.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Great video. Attempting the same setup now. Are you connecting the power pole adapters on the wiring that comes out of the turn on / off switch? I would be running this just like my normal battery, correct? Also, my fuse box has an option to turn the power over to lithium. I assume I would do this for this application? Thanks in advance!
@@Waresy23 You can come out of switch, but I chose to run after. Since you’re not charging the yeti from the camper charger, no need to change the charger settings. Thanks for watching!
Wow Brian you have really great videos, thank you for doing these. I have a Bluetti EB150, with 120 AC outlets and a 4 amp smart battery charger. I’m thinking that I could keep my trailer AGM battery topped up through the SAE solar port. I know it’s not efficient but it uses equipment I already own and I don’t have to modify anything. I haven’t tried it yet, any thoughts on me doing this? Thanks
Thats the name of the game, if you already own it, great place to start. You can charge thru that port, just check your polarity on the SAE, zamp is different than furion on go power.
Where do the two positives come from? I imagine one is solar or a trickle charger, the other powers 12v for Aliner. Try taking one positive off, then swap (tiny spark possible, don't be scared ..lol) One of them will shut off all of your DC appliances, the other will not. Install this anderson on the one the shuts off all the DC, that's your supply. If you have any trouble, shoot me an email and I'll be happy to help. I just helped set one up on an Aliner yesterday.
Hey Frank, sorry for the delay. It can be used that way, although that’s not what this video is about. I have videos on the channel about using power stations that way, in this video, it is taking the place of the RV 12v system and providing over 5 times the run time over the stock battery.
Great video! This just about sold me on the goal zero; this definitely ensured it’s worth the price. I did not hear you mention EF Ecoflow River in the list of competitors; I’d love to hear your thoughts on them.
They are making serious improvements. I do not have as much experience with them as I do other brands. From what I read, they have improved and fixed issues that people reported early on. For this specific application, goal zero is in a league of their own, offering a 30 amp DC output that can allow you to use the unit as a straight battery. No other company is offering this, with Bluetti coming closest with a 25 amp aviation plug.
@@DIYOutdoorLife It's definitely looking like goal zero is the way to go for what I want to do; my initial priority was to save cash but after watching your videos I'm realizing it's worth it for application even outside of the trailer as well. Thanks Brian!
@@levijosefsson6450 After using them to do off-grid construction for years, I came to the same realization. I try to save money any way I can, sometimes that means buy once,cry once…
I’m trying to get some promo codes for the channel, I think I’ll have some soon. Goal Zeros gotta appreciate the free support!! Lol I’ll let you know if something comes up soon.
I am definitely not a battery nerd and the end was quite confusing for me😂 I am also not savvy with anything electrical. Would this would for a vintage camper that is also powered by a battery? Does it have to be a specific type of trailer??
This can work for almost any camper, vintage is fine. This camper also has a battery, you can’t use them both at once for this technique. When using the power station to power the 12v, it is taking the place of the battery. Hope this helps, have fun!
my wires are 6awg as well, I use the 45amp anderson plug. The GZ yeti takes 45 amp and under. The reverse polarity fuse on your RV is probably 40 amps, most DC fuse boards are 30 amp. Since I dont know your exact system, the only thing I can say is 45 amp is more than enough for most pure DC systems on campers.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I did determine that the wire is a 4awg so I ordered the next size Anderson plug to use at the battery connection and the 45 amp for plugging into the Yeti. should be OK will only be running lights and the water pump. Thank You, enjoy the coffee!.
@@dag36523 That’s an excellent idea! You will have PLENTY of room to spare as well. The COM screen on the yeti will tell you how many watts you’re drawing. The APP breaker will trip around 360, that allows me to run everything in the camper, including the refrigerator/freezer at the same time. Let me know how you make out! Thank you kindly for the coffee, it makes such a big difference 🙏🏻
This is one of the best youtube videos I've watched. Period.
Great information, clear and concise, and your demeanor and presence is absolutely relaxing. Didn't get stressed about this job at all thanks to your encouraging tone. Would totally kick it with ya! See ya on the road!!!
Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate you tuning in and watching the video!
-Brian
I really appreciate the discussion about batteries at the end of the video. People really try to make you feel bad for purchasing Goal Zero now a days. I started my solar journey with Goal Zero about 5 or 6 years ago. After comparison of several other companies solar power stations (for my needs) I still came back around full circle to Goal Zero. Nobody ever talks about the components that Goal Zero exceeds in.
I agree! There is some amazing systems out there and tech is developing fast, but the Yeti platform is still the best for many applications, including how I use PPS.
Goal Zero also needs to be on blast for being irresponsible of it's defects. I posted one explaining why
I bow down to companies with good customer service. Unfortunately GZ has been a disillusion. Not being responsible for their defects
Tell me more, what defect are you up against?
@@DIYOutdoorLife Some units at times have problems acting erratically including my 6000x. Unit stops giving out a charge and sounds an alarm without reason.
Brian, I did this setup and was able to test it out at Overland Expo. It worked out great! My Yeti 1000x was down to 60% overnight running the fan and the 23Q Bouge fridge. In the morning, it was back out to 100% in less that 3 hours! Thanks for this video!
Thats great to hear! How do you keep yours out of the weather?
@@DIYOutdoorLife i had it under the trailer as there was no threat of rain. But, when I get the tongue box on, it will go in there. I'm so happy I watched this video!
@@jeffdonstuff2004 i'm thrilled, I think that this is a hidden gem that more people would love if they knew about it.
Best TH-camr and reviewer out there! Brian is absolutely detailed and a great speaker
Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate you tuning in!
Thanks! I appreciate your expertise and experience in showing us the world of possibilities with solar panels and PPSs..
Very exciting to see people getting into these gadgets.. lots of fun!
Thank you so much for the kind support!
Well, I guess I am becoming a battery nerd! I am just beginning the journey on solar generators/off grid power. I have been bingeing your videos and find them helpful. Appreciate the honesty talk on what is really the weak link in the “all-in-one” generators. There is no possibility at this time that I could build my own system because I don’t have the knowledge and don’t want to take a risk with my funds in that way. I appreciate that there are these generators that make it more simple for a noob to get started in solar/off grid camping. Thank you for your content.
Nothing wrong with nerding out! LoL
Thanks for watching!
I love your solution. I have long been considering adding a lithium battery to my little Rpod trailer. However, after watching many YT videos, I have come to realize they are done by people who park their RVs in the desert. I also, don't like the fact that I have invested a lot of money that sits with my RV in a storage lot. Having the ability to use your Goal Zero/Jackery/Bluetti solar battery at home during a power outage makes the best sense and optimizes your investment. I have even considered just plugging my RV, using the shore power cable, directly into the solar battery 120v, inverter, outlet. Then I can use my 120v outlets in the trailer. I know I loose efficiency, but I have small needs. I also enjoyed Todd Parker's video on how to connect a LiFePO4 battery to the Goal Zero to increase the battery's capacity. Thanks for an excellent video!
Thanks William! Check out my other videos on using power stations with RV's, I hope you find some useful content. I include the pro's and cons of plugging the camper into the inverter on other recent videos.
Since the Goal Zero is the only large power station with Anderson PP's, it's the only one you can do this video's application with. I am experimenting with the Bluetti's aviation plug, but it's rated 5 amps lower than the GZ plug. Thanks for watching and commenting, hope you'll subscribe!
SUBSCRIBE: th-cam.com/users/DIYOutdoorLife
I did this hack to my 2018 pro camper it works great! Thanks
Great to hear... its pretty sweet, still relatively unknown trick
Brian , I double checked all the Anderson HPP connections, fuses, and polarity. I did find that the Casita trailers are wired to houseold standards. I have a black positive wire. A white and green ground / neutral wire that feed into the trailer. I made the Anderson connection using a 2 post Busbar block . Used the 3 ring connections from the trailer to the block. Positive black on one post then grren & white neutral and ground on the other post. Used an Anderon HPP fused pigtail that has 2 ring connections red and black . Attached red to the busbar post with the Casita black positive. Then the black to the busbar post with the Casita green & white neutral/ground wires. The Anderson connections I made work fine when I attach it to the onboard AGM Casita battery. I then dissconect and have no other power source (battery ,shore, vehicle ) to the trailer Plug into my HPP port on the Goal Zero Yeti Core 1000 and the indicator light is white . Make the connection to the trailer and Yeti light turns red. No Yeti Core power to the trailer. Thanks for any additional advice or help !
Mystery from here. From what I'm reading in your case, I would do some testing on the anderson port on the yeti. Make a plug and make sure you can pull some amperage. Maybe the HPP is acting up on your unit, strange. Keep me in the loop.
I'm glad I found this channel.
Im glad too, thanks for watching!
Thank for your reply. I will go about your mods to the best of my abilities. I much appreciate your knowledge and sharing.
Fun mod, keep us in the loop!
Great job Brian! You should think about doin this for a living😀
Haha... I would love that, share the channel with some friends, and we'll see if I can do that 😆
Awesome videos. Really informative. By far the best I have seen. I just bought a 2016 Rockwood A frame camper and I was thinking of running my 30a with the 15a adapter to the Goal zero and when I need to charge the Goal Zero I would run my camper off the battery. The good thing about my camper is that its very minimal. Just has AC, heat and a fridge and some plugs. I would only need to use the fridge while camping and the plugs when I need them.
Thank you, I really appreciate you turning in!
Getting smarter every time you do a vid....thanks!
you got this! Make sure you include me when you figure out some tips and tricks! We're all in this together 😀
Oupes Mega 2, 3 and 5 have this port. There is a review that Brian did on the Oupes 2 around Christmas time.
Yes, very nice addition to the oupes Mega!
In my head have been thinking about a similar idea, nice one thanks for help & the nerdy part was handy
Thanks Sam
Awesome, keep me in the loop, would love to bounce ideas!
You are turning me into a battery nerd, but seriously, a great idea to forego the big RV battery and use a portable power system like the Goal Zero or other brands, instead, you would only need to install a much smaller battery for the braking system, if the RV has electric brakes. Thanks for the great vid !
Ha ha… We’re all nerds deep down. I still stick with 100 AH AGM… I can run my fridge, lights, fan for three days on that. That way I can take advantage of charging while driving as well. Having this option with a yeti takes the system to the next level.
Thanks for watching and commenting!!
@@DIYOutdoorLife What fridge do you use? Apologies if I missed it in another video.
Another outstanding tutorial. Like Mr. Rodriguez, I too am getting smarter all the time. Tony
Thanks Tony, I appreciate you tuning in.
Well, whaddaya know, I AM a battery nerd. ( well, maybe not really, but I'm learning stuff. ) This is such great information. I especially appreciate the simplified explanations. Actually makes me more interested. Thank you very much!
I think we're all nerds deep down ...haha I'm so happy that you're watching and getting something out of it!
Great video very helpful!! Now while I have just the battery powered my camper it only runs the lights and the heater fan but not the outlets . If I use this method will it run the outlets also? And also how long do you think it will run some things in the camper while solar panels are connected?
And I’ll be running the mega 2 power bank
The key is that this is a DC method, it’s not gonna power the outlets in the camper. You don’t want it to, that’s what kills your runtime. If you need to run something, plug it directly into the power station.
How long it runs impossible to answer . It’s a simple matter of what goes in and what goes out. The biggest key we learn, is how to really keep our watts down and run very efficiently.
Thanks for watching the video!
This is a great video and the inspiration for setting our Bushwacker up in a very similar way. We use a Bluetti AC200P instead of the Goal Zero which wound up not being the best option. It has more power for less money but I feel the Goal Zero is better suited for small campers like ours if your planning on charging off solar due to the 14-50V MPPT controller in the Goal Zero versus the 34-80V MPPT in the Bluetti. That 34V solar charge start voltage renders our 2 BougeRV solar panels on top of the camper useless because they won't reach the 34V needed to start charging the Bluetti. Yes I can add portable panels to reach the 34V but then I have to baby sit the portable panels instead of enjoying our free time hiking or fishing.
Love the concept of the PPS powering the camper and have set up our 1968 Shasta the same way. Will probably switch to the Goal Zero or build our own PPS so we can use our rooftop panels to recharge it during the day!
Hey guys, I love your ac200p set up, it’s a shame the start up voltage on the MPPT is so high.
Love the channel, and the new one, hope people will swing by and check it out!
Excellent explanation Brian, just discovered and subscribed, I like how your explanations keep up the great work. 👍
Thank you, I'm really glad you found us!
Thanks for putting this vid together. Want to make sure I understand you. With my 12 volt set up, (2 6 volt AGM in Series) I can disconnect the battery bank that is connects to my DC fuse box, inverter, charge controller, and connect the Goal Zero to replace the battery bank? The cut off switch would have to be after the DC fuse box and before all other stuff. correct? I like the idea since we pull our Airstream with a CamperVan. I could use the Goal Zero for backup and Van Camping.
To do this, you would first have to make sure your inverter is off and stays off.
Next, create a plug that simply disconnects your two batteries , the positive and negative wires that were going to your battery bank will now go to the Goal zero 1500x. By creating a plug, you can make it easy. Let me know if any questions pop up with the project.
I've been using my Jackery 500 with a 100W Harbor Freight solar panel to run my lights, charge phones/tablets/laptops, run fans, etc etc etc for a good 2-3 years now and it's still doing great. If the power goes out, I've got propane options for cooking and/or heating, and off grid options for showering and washing clothes.
Granted, I'm not running my 1500W heater, the AC or the microwave or anything off of it. But it's MORE than done its job over that time. I'd LIKE to get a bigger power station... just limited funds prevent that from happening. hehe
Yea, they do get pricey. Great to hear you had such success working the 500 w HF panel!
You can also do something similar on the AC side for campers with AC/shore power. Take the shore power incoming to the breaker and install a 2 sided switch there. That way when not on shore power, you can plug in the inverter/generator and turn the switch so you never accidently turn on shore power with your solar generator attached. You could also just plug it in to your shore power port, but then your powerbank is outside and at risk of getting stolen or impacted by elements.
Exactly, there's AC options as well.
The major point with this video is that the DC side will run six times as long as the AC side. There's no double inverter/converter efficiency loss, and no standby consumption. If there's a power station with a high DC output, You can use it to replace her supplemental camper battery.
Thanks for this video. Gave me a great idea for my new Yeti 1000x and my Scamp Trailer. This will be a great back up to the new LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I just added to the Scamp. Can you tell me what cut-off switch you are using here please. I'll be hooking up solar also as I work for a solar company and have access to free panels used or slightly damaged. THANKS again.
Good score on the solar panels!
This is the best switch for the job, it’ll allow you to switch between PPS and battery
amzn.to/3Y0Auii
Hi Brian - Thank you so much for all of the fantastic video content and explanations. We purchased an Adventurer camper a couple of months ago and just purchased the GZ Yeti 1500x and Boulder 100w (on sale bundle during labor day). Our adventurer has an onboard generator. I would like to wire my camper up to utilize the yeti as you've explained in this vid, but want to make sure I don't do anything incorrectly considering the generator. Am I correct that your post edit comment says all is good, just don't run the gennie at the same time I have the yeti plugged in? Thank you again, seriously. I'm going to buy you a coffee :)
Congratulations! Yes, you are good to go as long as you don’t run the generator with the yeti plugged in. Thank you for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you!
Great info! Thanks... Question, couldn't I just plug into the A/C plug with an extention cord direct to the camper just like I would with a generator?
I answered a whole question about air conditioning before I understood what you meant… lol
Check out this video for details on what you’re asking about -
Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks
th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Very informative video.
I've been considering buying myself a camper in the near future and I have a yeti 400 which I have connected 2-35ah batteries through the Anderson connections located on each side.
My question for you is that do I need to use a sigerett adapter to connect my yeti 400 to the camper 12v system OR can I connect the yeti to the camper through one of the Anderson connections connections?
The 400 is one of the few systems from GZ that I have not owned. From what I see, the Anderson side ports allow for the AGM batteries to be chainable. I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to plug your camper in that way, it should be a direct connection to the yeti battery. Let me know how you make out!
Hi. Great ideas. I am using a Vtoman power station with extra battery.
I have an old Casita and trying to upgrade the power converter it came with flipped me out.
So I removed it with the dying 12v battery and hooked up all my DC trailer needs to a fuse block. Then hooked that to the Vtoman. I’ve run the Vtoman ac inverter to a new shore line( if I use it or to a mini Honda generator that’s 45 years old). Also separate lines from solar panels to V.
I keep the V inside unless I need it somewhere else.
My big needs are a dc cooler/fridge, CPAP, water pump, fantastic fan, and lights or device charging.
So far it all works.
I always boondock so no external power on the road. I use Casita like a teardrop except at my age I can stand and pull on pants. All my utilities are outside (water and cooler).
The casitas are nice and last forever! Great job with the PPS power system!
Great video, wish I could do this with my Ecoflow Delta 2.
I agree, EcoFlow has made such great power stations, but they offer this feature very rarely. I almost bought the Delta pro, just because they had the 30 amp output. It would've been really nice for them to offer it with their smaller and less expensive power stations.
A question around the 3:00 mark.
How is the negative wire still grounded to the chassis? How does it complete the circuit when not plugged into the Yeti? I am a battery beginner, lol. It looks like the negative gets fed into the positive wire that continues off of the kill switch. Thanks for all the great videos.
The easiest way to explain it is that both the negative and positive wire from your camper goes to the yeti,instead of the battery. I demonstrate where to cut and what plugs to use, but in essence we are using BOTH wires to the yeti instead of the onboard battery.
@@DIYOutdoorLife That makes sense, thanks so much. How about when you're plugged into the AGM battery instead of the yeti? Then where is the negative being grounded? Looks like it gets grounded into the positive wire that goes back into the camper. Thank you for all the great videos. I hope you keep making them! I'm looking at a yeti 1000 core now... $900 on Amazon hmmmmm
The negative will run directly from the - on the battery to the chassis. All other negatives from appliances bond together and go to the chassis as well.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you, I get it now. I really appreciate the explanation. I think I can do this... eventually. First I'm going to install the kill switch from your other video. Way easier to screw down nuts and mount a switch.
In the meantime, I have a 12V female socket wired into my positive near my battery. So I plan on getting a 12V-male-to-Anderson extension cable, so I can directly recharge the AGM battery from the Yeti. This is still less efficient than just powering the camper from the Yeti (like in your video), but I think it's a step up in terms of efficiency compared to plugging the camper into the 120V A/C outlets on the Yeti.
Edit: just found out they make 10AWG wire with ring terminals and 45A Anderson Connectors. I'll attach this directly to the AGM battery, and plug the anderson into the Yeti. STILL less efficient than what you outlined in the video, but still progress.
You don’t wanna do what you’re saying! A lot of people make this mistake, so don’t worry. The Anderson output on a yeti is not a charger, it can not safety charge a battery. It can be used like a DC outlet that can run something like a camper, but batteries require a charger to provide them with the proper profile of charge.
For now, consider plugging your camper into the yeti inverter with your shore power plug. Your camper obviously has a battery charger built into it, use that with the yeti to charge the battery like you would with a gas generator. It’s going to be seriously inefficient but will get the job done. If you have any questions about this shoot me a line
Love your channel and just subscribe. Question: Will Jackery do the same thing?
Unfortunately, no. The 30a DC plug is only found on a few power stations.
Thank you for watching and subscribing!
@DIYOutdoorLife - Brian, awesome video! Never realized I could do this until I saw your video. Too bad I did not see this video a lot sooner. 😃
I wanted to verify something, hopefully I can explain well enough what I am asking.
For the purpose of my question I will refer to "Side A" as the battery side. "Side B" will be the camper side. So for Side A, I would have both the black and red wire with its own Anderson power pole plug. For Side B, are you taking the black wire, that was terminated on the camper's frame, and instead, bringing it up to be side-by-side with the red wire that goes to the camper using another Anderson power pole connector?
The third piece to this is the independent Anderson power pole cable that goes from Side B to the power pack. Did I understand everything correctly?
I think you have it! Although it's not necessarily essential to bond your chassis frame that way, it's a good practice.
You will have an Anderson plug coming off the battery leads, the camper leads, with an extension cord to extend in between.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yes, I guess that is my question I need to reword. The camper lead is only one wire (the red one) right? So am I only putting on the red side of the Anderson Power Pole connector and the black plug side of it will not having any wires connected to it? That is why I asked if I needed to move the black wire, terminated to the frame, up to be alongside the red camper wire in that side of the Anderson Power Pole connector?
@@Jeffrey.1978yes, I connect the black grounding wire from the Anderson to the frame, so it can complete a circuit. In most cases, I can just happen to the existing wire going from the battery negative to the frame. In other situations, you might want to just run another wire over to the frame. in either case, you want the red from the Anderson to the converter and the black Anderson going from the power station to the frame to complete the circuit
As of January 2023, is the Yeti Goal Zero the only solar generator with the Andersen outputs? Do you still recommend only the Goal Zero for this approach? Thanks for a great step by step video.
Although the Anderson is still my favorite, the larger Bluetti and some Ecoflow units have high current DC outputs. The bluetti uses an aviation style plug.
I really would have loved to see the GZ units come down more in price, perhaps offer lifepo4 batteries in some models, but I still recommend the yetis because of their quality and features.
Thanks for watching!
Great channel!
But i have a question: instead of DC to DC from a power station to rv, wouldnt just hooking up the rv AC cable (shore power) to the power station accomplish the same thing?
Unfortunately no. That goes from DC to AC back to DC... standby consumption.. etc
This will use your capacity wayyy more efficiently, otherwise id just plug in.
Thanks for watching the channel and asking a good question!
Great videos! Thank you! I have looked around for this but it wasn't immediately clear. I want to simply run my camp trailer off of a Yeti and use ALL of the interior plugs and appliances (3000x). Plugging the trailer shore power into the GZ works but also tries to charge the trailer batteries. Very inefficient as you know. Is the battery disconnect install the best way to run the trailer via GZ? It seems this video is just for the 12V stuff in the trailer and not my A/C, microwave or standard wall plugs. Thanks!!!
Hi Landon, thanks for watching.
although that will work, and switching the battery will give you much better results- it’s very important to understand that it’s very inefficient. Your run time will suffer a lot trying to power that way, although the 3000 is a beast!
Here’s some additional info
Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks
th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
You're my hero!
OMG... the mod god himself!
Great video. I would like to install the goal zero in my camper to replace the terrible Aims 2000 inverter. I need a wiring diagram for the permanent mount. I will need relays to split shore power, generator, Yeti, 12 vdc for coach, solar 400 watt panels with Renogy controller, battery charger.
That’s great. I love the options we have nowadays, what a great system you’re drawing up.
Great stuff Brian. I completed the hack as described. When not connected to the GZ (1000x) everything works fine off the house battery so I believe I performed it correctly. I am sure nothing is turned on in the RV (InTech Discover w/PD4100 converter) but I immediately get the red light fault indicator on the GZ when making the GZ connection. I have seen other commenters mention this issue also. Since my PD4100 converter supports LIO I went ahead and flipped the switch and changed the battery from Lead Acid to LIO but would still like to have the ability to connect to the GZ and run the DC side of the RV from it if necessary. Any thoughts as to what might be triggering the fault? I did discover an additional advantage of the hack is that I can use the cable disconnect to turnoff the charging from my alternator to protect it avoiding the need for a DC to DC charger. Finally is there a link I need to use to buy you a cup of coffee for all your great content. I am just not seeing it.
This issue has popped up for some folks, although it’s impossible for me to replicate with my gear. In most cases, they were able to resolve it.
Some were able to find what the culprit was, typically they start by pulling fuses until they find which circuit is tripping the GZ. In one case, using the GZ 1500 fixed the issue (30a plug). If there’s not a short on the camper, it has to be an issue of overcurrent, the plug is very sensitive.
I hope you’re able to get to the bottom of it, it is a really neat thing to be able to do, I use it all the time.
I would start by pulling some fuses and seeing what appliance might be drawing a quick load when it turns on.
Thank you for watching, also thank you for letting me know the link got dropped from this video description.
www.buymeacoffee.com/diyoutdoorlife
or
PayPal Direct w/o fees @diyoutdoorlife
@@DIYOutdoorLife Great I will goof around with the fuses a bit and see if I can get it to work. Appreciate it. Coffee en route.
I use this exact set up to power my sprinter van and I still have the ability to use the GZ to bring in my house if I have a power outage.
This video is two years old and I still don’t think there is another battery solar generator with the Anderson power pole connection to power outward.
It's a great system, I'm surprised it didn't get more popular. Almost everyone who sees it says that they didn't know that was possible.
The delta pro models from Ecoflow can do this with Anderson, they are great power stations too.
@@DIYOutdoorLife you can do the Anderson power pole with eco flow? I bought them both, 2 years ago and you couldn’t. But that was 2 years ago. I think ecoflow is actually better than GZ. 2 hour recharge time, that’s amazing.
@@Greyskydiesonly the delta Pro and Ultra, not every ecoflow
Great video!
thank you!
Brian , Thanks for all the solid info you present on your channel ! I have learned a lot !
I have a 2023 Casita trailer and I'm trying to implement my GZ Yeti 1000 Core as a battery source. I rigged up the Anderson HPP battery disconect and followed all the instructions to make things safe and have the Yeti being the only power source.
I did get it to work using your 12volt cigarette port back-feed method. I did have to turn the Yeti 12V port on before making the connection. Is that normal ?
I did not have success using the Anderson HPP method as described in this video. Is there anything inherent in the my Casita that might prevent this application from working ? Something I'm missing ? How to trouble shoot ? Thanks for any advice or suggestions , safe travels !
Thank you for tuning in.
There shouldn't be anything inherent about your Casita that stops it from working . Especially since it works with the ten amp plug version.
Do you have rooftop solar that's directly wired in? Did you double check to make sure you made a clean Anderson plug?
If your set up is working with the backfeed hack, you should definitely be able to make it work on the 15 amp plug on your core .
Keep me in the loop, I'll help anyway I can!
Thinking of doing this in a couple years in order to live full time off grid in a slightly bigger rv as this is much easier looking than building a diy solar system. If a camper has a factory inverter would that work with this system and more importantly would that have a possibility of damaging components? Thank you for all the information you provide
I would not use a factory inverter system like this. 30 A @ 12VDC is only a few amps 110v, meaning it wouldn't go very far. The inverter on the yeti however, is excellent and can run almost anything. I would hook it up so that the Anderson port runs the DC and the yeti inverter runs the outlets on your rig. You can use the app to turn things on and off and monitor.
@DIY Outdoor Life thanks man, been looking for answers, but the info on this stuff is pretty sparse other than your videos. Hope you have a great day
Really enjoy your videos. Very creative. Would the 12 volt regulated outlet on a power station be able to replace the battery? I have a small trailer and would love to use your idea but only have the cigarette type adapter. Thanks.
The bummer with the other brands is that a lot of them only have the cigarette style plug. This will give you roughly 120 W of capability. I can run most everything within that range, but you will get in trouble when trying to run multiple things at once. If my refrigerator compressor is on at the same time as the furnace it would trip.
So short answer yes, but the plug that Goal Zero has is 360+ watts, that’s how I’m able to run everything at the same time.
Hope this helps, please subscribe!
Yes thanks so much. This is exactly what I was wondering about. So glad you make things simple for a guy like me. Bought a wildwood FSX and getting great info from you to go boondocking in Jersey. Looks like I have to go with the Yeti Goal Zero for this to work. Any news on other brands that offer outputs? Didn’t see any in comments. Thanks Brian.
Bluetti is making some headway with an high output DC port. They use an aviation style plug on their bigger models of 25-30a.
I enjoy & appreciate your expertise on Batteries and Portable Power Stations .
Question? If I disconnect my 12 volt battery, can I plug my shore power into my 1000 watt power station ?
It won’t hurt to try. Since I don’t know your camper or the power station, I can’t tell you for sure, but the worst that can happens is it trips.
By shutting the battery off, like you said, you will prevent the power station from charging the battery, which would use up a lot watt hours. This will help a lot.
You will not however, prevent the standby consumption and loss from the conversion and inversion. Although it may work, it’s not going to run for anywhere near the amount of time as running a DC connection like in this video, still will be handy though.
Rather than disconnect the camper battery(s), can you just add the portable power station to augment the camper battery(s), using them together?
No, you cannot mix and match batteries like that. They were on a different voltages and resistance and you can damage gear or cause a safety issue. A PPS like Goal zero will not allow you to do it, the light will flash red and it will not work.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks for the explanation!
interesting idea...thanks for sharing...works for small loads like a fridge, fans, lights....most stuff in an RV...
But not for any larger draw than that....at 900 AC watts the 120v hot plate I ran extensively off my trailer inverter on our last trip draws about 80 amps dc..... I think that far exceeds the output of the DC port on the Goal Zero and the load carrying capacity of the wire size you're using...
That’s right. Running a system like this gives you a really mobile way to charge and use the normal 12VDC items on the trailer. The hot plate would be plugged directly into the power station (2000w inverter). It’s a great way to go for the majority of folks, but it’s not going to perform better than a high dollar onboard system.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I like the idea just for back-up to an onboard system such as mine...
👍
With this setup, the outlets inside won’t work, correct? Is there any way to get them to work on this setup, or would you need to just plug the trailer straight into the AC outlet on the goal zero? Would this setup allow you to run an rv AC unit?
With this set up, your camper will run just like it's on a battery, the outlets will not work. You can use the outlets on the power station when you need 110 power.
I have several videos on the channel about running air-conditioning while camping . It's a pretty complicated topic, but it can be done, usually costs a decent chunk of money to do it.
Once goal zero is connected to camper, will 110 plugs in camper work? Assume solar panel on camper will charge goal zero?
No, this is a pure DC application. One of the problems with dealing with 110 off of batteries, is the inversion is very inefficient. This solution gives you 12 V DC In a creative versatile way, to use 110 vac, you would have to plug the camper into the inverter, it’s not going to last very long that way.
Plug your solar panel directly into the power station for charging
Yeti’s are advertised as a house backup system. If you are worried about the elements, can’t you just store your Yeti inside your camper and run the wires in? I frequently have my awning open in light rain with my screen door open. The Yeti should have no problems inside the camper, correct? Or am I missing something?? Thanks! Andy
The system holds up very well to the elements! Inside camper works for me all the time although space can be limited in the BW. You want to avoid rain and high heat when outside, it's all easy to do.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. You've made this look easy for a beginner like me. One beginner question, even if you bypass the battery and connect to the Goal Zero, will you still need an inverter inside to use the 120 v outlets?
Yes and no. Setting the system up this way would not make your outlets work. Since you already have a portable power station, you could unplug the Anderson and plug your camper into the inverter on the power station, like you would with shore power. You wouldn’t want to do this for long, it will burn juice fast but work great for short activities.
Check this out
Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks
th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Dang, I'm back in school ,but this was good :)
I hope it’s the fun class… lol
Curious, does the Anderson outlet on the Core provide more capacity then using the M-M cigarette lighter backfeed method shown in a more recent video ?, Just wondering which method is better to use the Core to drive the camper. I will need to add up device wattages to get a feel for this. My camper (Nu Camp Tag XL) gets picked up next Tues., my GZ Yeti Core plus Boulder 100 unit get delivered Friday. I purchased the GZ gear after watching your excellent videos.
The cigarette lighter gives you a max of around 10A of current before tripping. The Anderson on the core is around 15A. The Anderson on the 1500x is 30A!
You could do almost anything you want on a teardrop and stay under 15A - I ran the fridge, furnace, water, pump, lights, charged phones with no issues.
Note- stock heater on T@G is electric element and wouldn’t work on DC
@@DIYOutdoorLife From what I can see, it would be a ceiling fan, fridge, water pump on occasion, lighting. I may do a propane Propex down the road. Tag comes with electric heat so needs shore power. I figured the GZ Core would be a good size.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yes, am aware. Not sure how often I will need heat, we are hardened from decades of cold tent camping. Maybe a Propex at some point if we find ourselves camping NE in Nov.
@@DIYOutdoorLife As BTW, your YT's are truly excellent. Your presentation of information is just better than about any other YT I watch. You would have been a terrific teacher of technical subjects.
So glad I found your channel, such great information explained so well, thanks for that.
I have a quick question, I know you explain the difference between LifePo4 and Lithium Ion. I have been looking at a Foxtheon iGo3600, which ticks many boxes for me, particularly being able to use the two batteries independently from the power station making it very adaptable. They say their batteries are "half-solid state lithium battery".
I'd love to get your opinion on this type of battery please?
I'm glad you found us too, thanks for watching!
As for the first part, that's actually a common misappropriation. LiFePO4 is a lithium ion battery, despite how many times people try to separate it. What they usually mean, when making that distinction, is that lifepo has some unique qualities, that differentiates it from other lithium ion batteries like Li NMC and others.
Solid state and semi solid is great. It's one of the highest quality sub chemistries out there, you won't be disappointed.
Thanks for tuning in!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you for taking the time to reply, very helpful and much appreciated.
Brian, love your info and I consider you my RV electrical guru. I'm setting up my RV and have a Yeti 1500x, 4x100W Renogy Panels (to be roof mounted), 1x100 Renogy Briefcase plus stock Mini Wini charge controller, etc. I sense that I could run all of my panels into the Yeti and use it to power my system and charge my 2 AGM 100ah batteries and even do this simultaneously. Hope to avoid duplicating the Yeti charge controller and sine inverter all together. Am I off-base?
Youre on base. I ran a system like that for years. Do you want to be able to swap the solar panels back-and-forth easily. Set it up so that you can plug them into the camper battery and easily swap over to the yeti.
Thanks Brian - finally getting to this and found my camper leads are 6 gauge. I’m unsure about the connection to my Yeti. Can you enlighten me?
@@davestahl447 you can use 10 awg going to the yeti. The DC output, using Anderson power poles, is rated for up to 30 A. 10awg will be fine to transition between the yeti and the camper.
You might want to consider using a bigger plug on the camper side. They make larger Anderson connections that would be easier to use with the larger wires. In that case, you could use a 10awg wire with the larger plug on the camper side, and the 45a smaller Anderson on the yeti side.
Thanks Brian! Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for this info! I never even thought to incorporate my Yeti 1400 with my camper. I do have a sort of unrelated question. My camper comes with a Zamp 100 Solar Panel. I have a Boulder 100 solar panel and a 10amp controller and Alligator clips. I know I can charge a 12v battery with this... but, what I want to know is can I clip into the camper 12V with the Boulder while the Zamp is already charging it? Can I charge that 12v faster with both systems on it? ... or would I be doing a bad thing. LOL.
No problem, that would be right as rain. It is perfectly fine to have two charging systems with two charge controllers, you just don't wanna overload a battery. In your case, you are not overloading with solar of that size.
If you had bigger arrays, I would have to ask about what size battery. With two 100 W panels, youre fine.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Awesome! Thank you!
I wonder if you could hook it up to the trailer battery using both the goal zero and the pre existing battery as an extension for added battery hours
Unfortunately you can’t. Different battery chemistries with different profiles. But since it takes 2 seconds to switch from one to the next by changing the plug you can accomplish the same thing.
Thanks for watching, happy camping!
@@DIYOutdoorLife that’s true
Hi, Brian--I'm interested in a Roadtrek van with 400 amp hours of AGM and an underhood device to re-charge those batteries. Living in FL, I'm concerned about air conditioning day and night while off-grid. Would a PPS be a worthwhile addition, and how would that be set up? All your videos utilize your towable with an external battery. I like your Goal Zero and also the Eco Flow and Bluetti 2000's, although the latter is very heavy. I know I could simply plug the van's 30-amp cable into the PPS, but you say that's very inefficient and wasteful. I would appreciate your thoughts, and thanks.
Air conditioning is the mnt Everest of off grid living. It’s possible, but it typically requires a very large investment and some DIY know-how. Check out my video on the zero breeze, it’s not perfect, but it does work. When I’m traveling in hotter climates, I’ve used it with a lot of success.
Most people with serious air conditioning needs end up going with the quiet gas generator.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you, Brian. I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the video. I think? You can increase the Goal Zero Yeti's watt hours/performance by connecting your camper battery to the Yeti. Simply get an Anderson connector to a 8mm Goal Zero male plug and plugged your existing battery into the Yeti. You will be able to charge both the Yeti and the existing camper battery with solar panels when you're in the boonies.
=
Thanks for watching.
Im not sure who told you that, but that wont work. You cannot safety charge the yeti by going from a lead acid battery into the 8mm port. You can use the regulated 12v charger GZ makes and run that to the battery, but not wiring a battery directly into the solar charger.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the info, go to know.@@DIYOutdoorLife
@DIY Outdoor Life any particular reason why you didn't route the wires so that the yeti could live INSIDE your trailer?
I have that too. The main reason I run outside most times is the space is tight. It’s two adults and a dog in our teardrop…lol. I also have videos showing the inside wiring.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Not seeing them. Can you provide link to those videos? Thanks again for your help.
@@donnetellomaximilian here is a simple backfeed set up. I also have an Anderson connection in the trailer for higher current capability, I don’t think I did a video on that yet.
RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed
th-cam.com/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/w-d-xo.html
This is a great video! Thank you! Could you detail the benefits of going this route (direct from the battery) over plugging the shoreline to the yeti? I did that last camping trip and it kept all systems running well for an entire weekend. Do you lose more power more quickly?
This will last 2-3X as long as, depending on how you use the camper.
When you plug your RV directly into the yetis 110v receptacle, you’ll lose efficiency running through the inverter.
On top of this, it charges the camper battery and converter back to 12v through the power center on camper. Both ways work, getting to use outlets is nice, but running through the Anderson output is the way to go for longer trips.
Check this video out too.
Portable Power Stations Uses with Campers | Tips Tricks & Hacks
th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this great info! So if I have an older GZ 1000 Lithium (not core, not X) that has 10 Amps through the powerpole connection, is this setup not worth it for me?
You wouldn’t get the same benefit, but try this instead-
RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed
th-cam.com/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/w-d-xo.html
Love your videos! I bought a Yeti 1000 Core. I hooked up an Anderson connector, black to ground via the my front battery negative post, and positive to the bundle of wires running to trailer power. I can disconnect the batteries via a selector switch. Problem is, when I plug in the Yeti, at either the Anderson or Car outlet, it faults immediately, even with everything off in the trailer. I’m pretty sure I’m wired up properly, since I can plug in a smaller lithium battery to the Anderson connector and it powers the trailer, no problem. Any ideas what the problem might be?
The output on these yetis is going to be a lot more sensitive than just a battery. I'm guessing that something might be loose or miswired, but it's impossible to tell without seeing. There's also a chance that you have something that's drawing more than 15 A, even for a short period of time, and tripping the outlet. It would definitely trip the 12 V automotive, because it's only 8 to 10 A.
As a troubleshoot method, I would try to pull all the fuses on the camper, plug in the yeti, and put the fuses in one at a time .
Good luck with the project!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks! Good troubleshooting tip. I’ll try that later. Pretty sure I have everything 12v turned off - lights, fans, water pump, refrigerator, radio, furnace, etc - it still faults. I’ll let you know what I find.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I was in the process of pulling all the fuses and putting them back one by one. All fuses removed, no fault (yay!). I was putting them back in one at a time, when I realized I still had battery 1 selected as well. As soon as I turned it off and plugged and unplugged, the fault returned. It seems I can avoid a fault by having one of the trailer batteries turned on in parallel when I plug in the Yeti. Weirdly, once plugged into the Yeti without faulting, I can then turn the trailer battery off and still no fault and the trailer just draws off the Yeti. Weird. Maybe having the battery in the circuit initially serves as a ballast of sort to damp out whatever the Yeti sees when plugged in without a battery involved that causes it to fault. Seems to be a workaround, and I’ll let you know if it keeps working like that in practice. Thank much, regardless!
@@fastereddieb this seems to me like there's something requiring in rush current. it probably peaks very quickly and then settles down, the battery buffers it out. If you can get it to work that way, nice job! It's a really sweet boost to be able to use these power stations off of the DC!
That's basically how I built my camper van. But i disconneted ac completely from dc. But doesn't matter since I can charge my Yeti with the included charger or solar power when off grid. With the app connection I can easily remove the yeti from the car and store it at living room temperature when I dont need it. That way I can plug in any 12V battery in my camper. For example: when I am on a day trip I just take a handy 12V 12Ah agm battery. It runs all the lights and my diesel heater for a few hours and I can recharge it when I am back home.
However, whenever I'll build a fixed setup I'll go for a lifepo battery with seperate charge controller etc but still the option to add a backup battery because just in case.
Solid. It’s really nice to have that capability and have it be portable! How do you like that diesel heater?
@@DIYOutdoorLife oh i hate and love that diesel heater. Since my van i diesel powered it was a no brainer to go for the diesel heater. It doesnt need care other than I have to run it at max sometimes to keep it clean. It runs flawlessly and is great in every possible situation where I need a "warm" car for some reason. BUT: I cant sleep while it is running. Some people say they can sleep but for me it is annoyingly loud (maybe I can sleep when I get used to it). I recommend to test that before buying one.
@@lifepolicy great feedback. The noise is a big consideration for many
An older video but very useful info. A scenario maybe i've missed, What if you opt out of a battery setup? Is running a PPS primary an option? Also not using the shore power hook up, but lets say instead of your battery box, you place the Yeti there and charging the Yeti by solar panels. How/ is it possible for this configuration to run your trailer purely using a PPS. Thanks again for any insight and keep up the awesome work
absolutely! In fact, I think it would be the best way for many. It requires some DIY work to get the best out of it but some companies are helping with this. I am going to tour a camper factory this month that will sell their camper with a wired box to receive a PPS. It will connect to AC, DC, solar charging, shore power charging and car charging...pretty cool stuff.
Thanks for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I will be waiting for that video. Could you just take the original connectors that goto the battery and put an anderson fitting on those to connect straight to the Yeti? I guess thats what im asking. Say I bought a used trailer and threw the battery away. Couldn't I do the exact same process you did to by-pass the battery but instead hook it straight to the positive and negative leads that would go to the battery, slice them and put anderson fittings to connect to the Yeti? Thanks for the help.
@@sgtbehrens yes, you can do that. The problem here is that you should not connect it to the tow vehicle with a seven pin or plug your camper into shore power.
Since your camper uses those same wires to charge, that will not work that way. Fine to run the camper that way, but use the power station charging methods rather than connecting it to tow vehicle, camper charger, or camper solar port.
Does that make sense?
@@DIYOutdoorLife Hi DIYOutdoorlife thinking of doing this mod with my trailer. I have a bluetti 200max. I would like to plug it in dc side of the trailer to the power bank as shown in the mod but also have the ac inveter on the bluetti 200max running plugged into the 30 amp rv plug of my trailer. My desire is that the AC side has to go trough the bluetti inveter with some power loss but the DC side doesn't have that same loss and both can run simulaniously . I understand to make this work, I would need to shut off my converter right? anything else?
@@danenewman800 you got it. Just make sure the load center and converter aren’t interacting with the battery. Usually simple to stop the battery charging and AC-DC conversion
Hello, great video. I have a GeoPro camper and a yeti 1500x so I would like to have this as an option. I took a look at my wiring and see that there is a short ground wire that connects to the trailer and another thick black wire that runs somewhere else. Do I need to snip both black grounds and make them into one ground wire to make this work? Just not sure why I have two black grounds?? Hope you can help. Thanks.
Without seeing your system, I can’t say what would be best. The grounds will likely all bond to the chassis. There’s several safe and effective ways to do this and you don’t really even have to remove the house battery negative to add the GZ.
Is there 2 positives? Does the second ground go to the solar ready port?
Thanks for the quick response!
So, there is (1) positive 4 gauge wire, (1) negative 4 gauge and (1) negative 10 gauge wire. All fastened to the battery on (1) positive and (1) negative terminal. Also, the camper does have a solar panel pre installed and wired.
The thing that throws me off is the negative terminal has (2) ground/black wires….(1) short, 10 gauge wire that goes straight to the frame from the battery and (1) 4 gauge that runs under the camper along with the 4 gauge positive wire where it disappears into the camper.
I’m leaning towards the power poles need to be installed on the (2) thicker 4 gauge wires and just leave the 10 gauge alone. However, I got the 45 amp Anderson power poles in. It doesn’t look like the thicker wires will fit on the metal pieces where I would crimp the wire too? Not sure if they make power poles that fit the thicker 4 gauge wires? If so, let me know.
Disclaimer: I’m not exactly sure if they are 4 gauge wire, it was just what my gut tells me….lol. However, They are considerably thicker when compared to a 10 gauge wire.
Hope I’m explaining this clearly. If not, I’ll just wing it. Thanks!!!
@@chrislucero758 I think it would be irresponsible for me to guess here, but I can probably point you in the right direction. Let’s talk theoretically…
4awg seems way overkill, I’m guessing maybe 6 or 8. Since the yeti will trip at 30 amp, 10awg at these distances would carry the current.
There are many things you could do to make this work, just don’t jeopardize the integrity of the campers normal functioning, when on house battery.
Maybe installing a “1,2, off” switch might be best. Sometimes they’re hard to find, so “1,2, both, off” would work as long as you were careful not use “both”.
You could add a Anderson, with the red going to “2” and black going to the chassis where your smaller battery black goes. “1” would go from battery to the heavier red wire that is currently in place. This would allow you to get 10 or eight gauge wire that fits your Anderson plug and provide a simple to use switch between the camper battery and GZ. Don’t use “both” … switch from GZ yeti or camper. Food for thought.
Thanks, Brian
So using this method with the Goal Zero and Anderson cable I can use the outlets inside the trailer, like the tv?
The anderson method is for camper "DC". To use AC outlets, you could run through the outlet on the power station but it wont have near the run time. it's a far better idea to run this way and get a tv that plugs into DC plug like automotive/cigarette. Thanks for watching!
Great video bud! Is there any possibility you can show us how to install that switch to interrupt house batteries from the RV in favor of the Goal Zero? Been trying to go full Boondocking for a while, you’ve been a godsend! Also, do you think as possible to chain or Daisy chain two or more Goal Zero 1500 X together? cheers! 🫵🏻🍺🍺
Hi, thanks for watching! I can definitely do that but it will take a while, I have a lot of videos pre-filmed and ready to go.
Here's a video I did on a master switch, it's basically the same . I will link the product to the right switch to do what you're saying below it.
Installing Master Switch on Camper Trailer | RV Kill Switch
th-cam.com/video/Qn1gx3ZG9S0/w-d-xo.html
amzn.to/3VP4wVJ
* don't use one with a "both" setting
As for the Goal zero question, there's no need to chain them together. They make a 3000 and a 6000 or you can add tank batteries to any of the systems. They also have a brand new 4000 6th gen model that is a huge upgrade.
amzn.to/4aPNuuN
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks so much Brian! My rig is a 32 Entegra Esteem that came with two 100 amp house batteries, as you probably know crappy and don’t last too long, three days of mild use and boom, dead!
I do have a master switch on and off already installed. Since I have three GoalZero’s 1500x I figured I could use two of them together using a similar configuration in order to bypass the original factory setting for mostly boondocking, and charge ‘em as we drive with the “goal zero yeti link” from the alternator.
I thought your idea was genius by flipping from direct DC power or Boondocking with a GoalZero as needed! I been looking for an alternative, never found it until now with you!
Cheers friend! 🫵🏻🍺
@@MightyMoeBanker that set up should work really well. Swap the on off switch with the one I linked and you'll be able to simply switch over to one of the yetis. You can keep one charging while running on the other and switch when needed. Having three is the way to go, I know it's pricey, but it gives you so many options.
I just ordered an ecoflo river with solar panels on Amazon yesterday
Gotta love prime day..lol.
@@DIYOutdoorLife hell yeah, and our new Jayco micro 171bh came with a 190w solar panel. I’ll be using both at my hunting camp
@@danadouglass2822 nice!
Great video and I'm going to attempt this application. I have a question. I have a renogy 12 volt gel 100ah deep cycle battery for my camper (winnebago hike). I was told I need to have a trickle charger( I could use my goal zero 1000) on the camper battery when I boonedock. Do I really need to do that ?
I might be confused by what you’re asking. That gel battery does need a trickle charger. A good one, like the ones made by NOCO is recommended.
I wasn’t sure if you were asking whether you need the battery, or the trickle charger.
Using both that battery and the Goal zero by alternating it’s gonna be a great system, especially if you can add solar. Having the simple plug there makes it very easy to go back-and-forth.
Shoot me an email at diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com if you want links to some stuff or ideas on using both batteries.
Thanks for watching!
There’s some really great information here! My question is: do they make these Anderson connectors to accept bigger wire? It appears that the wires coming from my camper going to the battery are 8 AWG. I tried several times using these connectors and it seems the wires are just a little too big to be crimped properly. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
Yes, they do. I’ll attach a link for the set of plugs you’ll use on the camper side.
You can use 10awg wire and the normal plugs for the wire going to power station.
In other words, use the larger plugs for the connection going from your battery to camper. Your extension wire, running from that plug to the power station can be 10 gauge, with one big plug on one side and normal plug on the side goes into the Power Station.
Let me know if this makes sense, it’s an easy job .
amzn.to/3JbhPI6
Thanks very much that makes sense!
Great rundown. Question: I have a tiny truck camper with existing wiring into an empty battery cabinet for a few lights/outlets, pump, and heater fan. Could I just run the 12v ouput from my Yeti using your system into what appears to be the 14ga wiring (that was intended to go to the old battery)? Not a lot of draw, would be nice to not re-wire lights and such from the GZ
Yes, absolutely! Assuming your truck was wired properly, 14awg wire can handle your total load (less that 15 amps). The APP port on the x series can do 30 amps and the core can do 20 amps...you'll be fine either way. Have fun with it, hope you'll subscribe!
SUBSCRIBE: th-cam.com/users/DIYOutdoorLife
@@DIYOutdoorLife sweet thanks!!
Thanks for the great video. I have two other power stations; Wagantech Lithium Cube 1200 and EcoFlow Delta Pro. I would like to be able to plug these systems directly into my R-pod trailer with either one. Could I plug them into the shore power port on the side or connect them through the battery port like you have done here? Instead of using the anderson plug port, could I connect using the lighter socket outlet?
The delta pro has a high output Anderson, that will work. When using a cigarette style plug, you can only draw 10 amps, opposed to the 30 amp shown in this video. The delta pro will do this.
Also, I’ll link the video I did showing the lighter socket.
RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed
th-cam.com/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you very much and thanks for explaining power on the rv's. Great info.
Hey I did everything you said thought it would work but when I hook up my 1000x to the trailer the 12 volt power light on the yeti turns red? Goal Zero told me to hook up a Anderson to ring terminal connector to my fuse box? Don’t really understand that? Did I miss something or do I need something else? Thanks, Jason K.
Hi Jason, what kind of camper do you have? If you follow what we did in this video, it is no different than hooking it directly to the converter with ring terminals.
The 1000x does trip a lot sooner than the 1500 but still works, I do it all the time. Hope you’re able to get it figured out, this is a very handy way to use the yeti.
This video is exactly what I needed to see. I'll be hooking up a yeti 3000 to a 5th wheel. I like the idea of the kill switch as well!! Anything I should watch out for?
Its a great mod, I think youre going to love it. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I have been putting the project off, but I now want to tackle it. The currunt wire the 5th wheel has going to the battery is 6awg. I have been looking for a Anderson 45 amp plug kit and an Anderson 6awg extension cord, but I can't seem to find it. Would it be possible for you to help me out and point me in the right direction to find where I can buy this or suggest something else? I appreciate your help!!
@@scottwalker4968 here is the 45 A connector
amzn.to/3F3LUrp
@@scottwalker4968 you won't find a six AWG extension, since the 12vdc output on the GZ is 30 a, you can use 10awg
The plugs can be adjusted if the orientation isn't correct.
amzn.to/3LIgtX9
@@DIYOutdoorLife thank you for the quick reply. I really appreciate it!!
Do you have a video on how to install the yeti link on a vehicle?
Unfortunately no. I have installed them before and they’re relatively easy with the instructions. If I get a chance, I’ll put a video together. Thanks for watching!
Such a helpful video -- thank you! I would like to do the same with my InTech Exlplore but there are 4 wires coming off the battery (2 positive, 2 negative). How can I determine which is the appropriate wire to connect my anderson PP to connect to my Yeti?
Can you trace them out? One of them should be powering the camper, the other might be coming from a charger like a solar input. Feel free to email me a photo if you want help.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I *think* one set of wires runs to power center that converts AC to DC power and I *think* the other runs to the Zamp solar port. I can send a pic if you wouldn't mind confirming. And please let me know how I can buy you a coffee/beer/cheeseburger for helping me out! Thanks!
@@sarabethL4 that sounds right to me! You’ll be installing the plug on the wires to the converter.
They should be a heavier gauge than your solar wires.
Send a pic to DIYoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
www.buymeacoffee.com/DIYOutdoorlife
Or PayPal @diyoutdoorlife
Thank you for that offer, don’t feel obligated, happy to help!
Do you recommend the Oupus Mega 2 for a solar generator with the Anderson Connections? …… for price.
Yes. Its larger and cheaper. Even though I love this yeti, the oupes price is impossible to match.
Oupes Mega 2 - 2048Wh Portable Power Station Solar Generator
th-cam.com/video/ruji-D1fYN8/w-d-xo.html
In today's market, do you still feel that the Goal zero option as an alternative power source for the bushwacker?
Yes, the fact that it has all of the features you need and can be used for more than one thing makes it a great option still. I still highly recommend getting a good battery for the trailer as well, and ultimately it comes down to how much capability you actually need on your trailer. I have 100 amp battery and GZ 1500 and it's a great combo!
Hey Brian! How does this differ from your video on plugging power station into inside 12V and running fuses off of it? Thanks.
This gives you 30amp DC instead of 10amp. 10 amp from other video gives you the minimum basics, with 30a I can run all of the DC stuff at once if I wanted. It’s also nice with a teardrop to keep the power station out of the cabin, especially helpful with the large power stations.
I have a couple of questions . I have an eco Flo river pro
1. Does shore power charge your battery
2. In a pinch would plugging in the power station to the shore power via 15 amp charge the battery .
I understand there would be alot of wasted energy however wanted to understand that before I even attempted it
Hi Scott,
Shore power does charge my camper battery.
If I want to use shore power to charge the yeti, I use the built in charger on yeti and not camper.
Yes, plugging in your camper through the PPS does work in a pinch, I do it all the time. You just have to make sure that your power station, the Ecoflow pro inverter can handle the draw of the camper charger. It works fine on my camper.
Check out this video if you haven’t seen it
th-cam.com/video/mU8iZZGlk_8/w-d-xo.html
hello sir. i have recently purchased a 20 foot wildwood. the ac wall outlets and furnace will only work on shore power. if a purchased a jackerry unit would i be able to plug my camper into it and have enough power for light use.
Since the battery supply used during dry camping is direct current, what you’re saying is standard about outlets.
Unfortunately, I would need to know a lot more about your situation to answer this accurately.
A Jackery can not be used the way the goal zero is in this video. You could however bring it along to plug things directly into it.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help, thanks for tuning in.
Great video, I just recently bought a Yeti 3000x. And am going to run my Rv the way you ran your RV.
I have a question, since you brought up the difference between yeti lithium battery and Lifepo battery.
Anyways, like I said, I have a yeti 3000x and I also have 4x 138Ah Lifepo batteries. Is it possible to extend the Yeti 3000x battery capacity by connecting my batteries to it?
I was thinking by using the Yeti link. But wasn't sure if it would work.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Hey Chris. Right now, the link system does not support lifepo... Goal Zero keeps saying that's going to change.
For the time being, I'll share what I do.
Get a simple clamp on female 12 plug. Attach it to the LifePo and plug the GZ car adapter into it. It charges the Yeti between 110-140 watts in per h. If your LifePos can be hooked in parallel, this would continue to charge your Yeti for over 6500 wh!!! You could run solar during the day and pop the car charger in after sun down.
Shoot me an email if you want a link to the plug I use.
diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Just emailed you.
thanks for the video! Would this also work for Class C house batteries?
Yes, works the same.
Can you use this method if your camper has a built in (factory installed) solar panel?
Yes, but you're going to need to know how to keep those systems isolated. if your factory solar runs directly to the battery, you'll be disconnecting it at the same time as your battery and it'll work like a charm. If the solar is wired to fuse block, within your converter box, you'll likely have to figure out how to disconnect that easily, at first you might just be able to pull that fuse, long-term a switch would be better.
Shouldn't be too hard. Let me know how you make it!
Just did a test run with my Goal Zero 1000 core in the kitchen (before boondocking next weekend for 4 days). Ran a Mr Coffee it draws 805 watts. When I switched to see the Amp draw it was 61? Is calculating at 12 volts when I am plugged in to the 120 volt outlet?
Also ran an electric tea kettle which consumed 30% of the power. 1342 watts for about 5 min. Won’t be using that LOL. I know I can make coffee on the gas stoce just teating.
The experimenting can be a lot of fun. It’s amazing that a system this small can even run something over 1300 watts!
In your example, 61 would be DC amps. If you divide the watts by the volts, you’ll get amps. Your coffee pot was likely drawing around 7.5 AC amps.
You’ll find using any device that gets hot will use a ton of wattage. So like you said, using LP for coffee and tea water will be a huge saver. Have fun and keep sharing your results, it’s always nice to hear what people are discovering.
Great video! I forgot to ask you before but where can I purchase a Dura Faucet Spout (with valve control) like the one you have shown in the other video?
Hey Frank, the newer models are more tricky than the older models. Can you send me a photo of the port where spray hose plugs in. DIYOutdooContent@gmail.com
Ordered my 1500X today (REI 20% sale). Do you have a preferred vendor for the wire and Anderson connectors? Thanks again for you responses to my inquiries.
Check out the links in the video description. I keep updating those video links with good quality low-cost options.
Congratulations, it’ll be a lot of fun .
Can you plug things like an air fryer or Instant pot into the yeti?
Yes, the yeti 1500 can handle both of those appliances. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the vid. I have a 1500x and am looking to acheive the same thing- boondocking solution to power RV.
QUESTION: Is doing this more efficient than just plugging the RV into one of the AC plugs on the Yeti? Why or why not?
Tremendously more effective.
The reasons are simple. By using the inverter you are losing around 15% in inversion loss. You are also losing 7 to 8 watts an hour to standby consumption. Your camper is then going to convert it back to DC, you will lose 15% there.
In a head-to-head comparison, this use of the Anderson output will prove to be wayyyyy more efficient and last longer.
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks! makes sense.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Great video. Attempting the same setup now. Are you connecting the power pole adapters on the wiring that comes out of the turn on / off switch? I would be running this just like my normal battery, correct? Also, my fuse box has an option to turn the power over to lithium. I assume I would do this for this application? Thanks in advance!
@@Waresy23 You can come out of switch, but I chose to run after. Since you’re not charging the yeti from the camper charger, no need to change the charger settings.
Thanks for watching!
Wow Brian you have really great videos, thank you for doing these. I have a Bluetti EB150, with 120 AC outlets and a 4 amp smart battery charger. I’m thinking that I could keep my trailer AGM battery topped up through the SAE solar port. I know it’s not efficient but it uses equipment I already own and I don’t have to modify anything. I haven’t tried it yet, any thoughts on me doing this? Thanks
Thats the name of the game, if you already own it, great place to start.
You can charge thru that port, just check your polarity on the SAE, zamp is different than furion on go power.
I have 2 positives coming out of my Aliner, how do I couple them together so they fit in the Anderson connectors. Thanks, Jeanne
Where do the two positives come from? I imagine one is solar or a trickle charger, the other powers 12v for Aliner. Try taking one positive off, then swap (tiny spark possible, don't be scared ..lol)
One of them will shut off all of your DC appliances, the other will not. Install this anderson on the one the shuts off all the DC, that's your supply.
If you have any trouble, shoot me an email and I'll be happy to help. I just helped set one up on an Aliner yesterday.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Great I will try that. On the negative side coming out of the Aliner I have 3 wires. 2 10AWG and 1 8AWG.
@@gregjean130 can you send a photo? Your 8 awg is the trailer negative but I’m wondering what else you have going on.
are you using this to power an inverter on your camper so you can use AC and such? if so or if you can how much time will it last?
Hey Frank, sorry for the delay.
It can be used that way, although that’s not what this video is about. I have videos on the channel about using power stations that way, in this video, it is taking the place of the RV 12v system and providing over 5 times the run time over the stock battery.
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks. that's what I thought you were saying.
Great video! This just about sold me on the goal zero; this definitely ensured it’s worth the price. I did not hear you mention EF Ecoflow River in the list of competitors; I’d love to hear your thoughts on them.
They are making serious improvements. I do not have as much experience with them as I do other brands. From what I read, they have improved and fixed issues that people reported early on. For this specific application, goal zero is in a league of their own, offering a 30 amp DC output that can allow you to use the unit as a straight battery. No other company is offering this, with Bluetti coming closest with a 25 amp aviation plug.
@@DIYOutdoorLife It's definitely looking like goal zero is the way to go for what I want to do; my initial priority was to save cash but after watching your videos I'm realizing it's worth it for application even outside of the trailer as well. Thanks Brian!
@@levijosefsson6450 After using them to do off-grid construction for years, I came to the same realization. I try to save money any way I can, sometimes that means buy once,cry once…
I’m trying to get some promo codes for the channel, I think I’ll have some soon. Goal Zeros gotta appreciate the free support!! Lol
I’ll let you know if something comes up soon.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks! I found you a little too late for that initial coupon you had with them.
I am definitely not a battery nerd and the end was quite confusing for me😂 I am also not savvy with anything electrical. Would this would for a vintage camper that is also powered by a battery? Does it have to be a specific type of trailer??
This can work for almost any camper, vintage is fine. This camper also has a battery, you can’t use them both at once for this technique. When using the power station to power the 12v, it is taking the place of the battery. Hope this helps, have fun!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you!! Appreciate it
What is the largest Anderson Power pole plug the Goal Zero can handle? My RV Wires at the battery are #6.
my wires are 6awg as well, I use the 45amp anderson plug. The GZ yeti takes 45 amp and under. The reverse polarity fuse on your RV is probably 40 amps, most DC fuse boards are 30 amp. Since I dont know your exact system, the only thing I can say is 45 amp is more than enough for most pure DC systems on campers.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I did determine that the wire is a 4awg so I ordered the next size Anderson plug to use at the battery connection and the 45 amp for plugging into the Yeti. should be OK will only be running lights and the water pump. Thank You, enjoy the coffee!.
@@dag36523 That’s an excellent idea! You will have PLENTY of room to spare as well. The COM screen on the yeti will tell you how many watts you’re drawing. The APP breaker will trip around 360, that allows me to run everything in the camper, including the refrigerator/freezer at the same time. Let me know how you make out!
Thank you kindly for the coffee, it makes such a big difference 🙏🏻
Lion energy has Anderson power plugs for the 12v outlet
Yes it does! I am such a huge fan of their stand alone batteries as well! I’m going to have to save up and check it out!
Great info a thank's !!
Thanks Steve, I appreciate you watching and commenting. Thanks for the support!