After living on both coasts and this country's interior, I've seen the difference in people's attitudes towards the ocean and it's stunning. I've met so many people who have actually never been to the beach, and don't really care.
For pure swells over deep water, small parcels of water actually move in small circles with a radius about the same order as the height of the wave. The radius of motion decreases as an exponential function with depth. When the water gets shallower compered to the wavelength the motion becomes more and more elliptical, first near the base. Over very shallow water the motion of parcels becomes mostly horizontal. The horizontal "shallow water" model rarely applies to wind driven waves though, as they have too short of a wavelength compared to their height, and hence tend to break easily. Tsunamis OTOH have an extremely long wavelength compared to normal wind-generated waves. Therefore they can obey the "shallow water" model even when the water is over a hundred feet deep. The horizontal motion gets larger and larger as the water gets shallower, and it can have a long period of ten or more minutes. The long horizontal motion of water in a tsunami is what contains the destructive energy. The height isn't as important.
Thanks for explaining how waves work! It was really satisfying to understand that the wave moves through the particles and that the particles don’t move. Keep it up 👍👍
Nice and informative video, but 1:02 waves do not move up and down. The water particle moves in a circular (or ellips in shallow water) motions, it has velocities and accelerations in horizontal directions too. These wave kinematics are highest at the top, but decrease along the depth
Yes, but the motion becomes more of a horizontal ellipse near the base as the wave encounters shallow water. If the amplitude is large compared to the depth, a phase-decoupling occurs where upper portion of the wave travels faster than the lower portion. This leads wave breaking. After waves have fully broken they behave in a shock-like manner with a turbulent discontinuity in both height and motion at a sharp leading-edge. This discontinuous shock-like kinematic model applies to both tsunamis and smaller lapping beach waves. The motion is mostly horizontal outside of the turbulent break zone at this point.
No you are wrong the thing which moon creates are tides there is a lot of difference between tides and waves Waves are caused by air pressure and wind while tides are caused by moon there would still be waves if moon did not existed
@@secretunknown2782 my understanding is that with the constant rotation of Earth and the moon's gravity pulling on the ocean waters that the tides constantly changing the impacted areas inconsistently are also have waves form too
yes, gravity affects them, the thing is, on a much much smaller scale, a large pool would probably be still and would have no waves, this is because all the walls are not moving( unlike the continents that touch the ocean which are constantly drifting, breaking into each other, and sliding along) the lake however, would probably have mine waves because they are not exactly "controlled" and yes, a lake is a much smaller scale of the ocean, but quite larger than a pool. Yourwelcome
The deeper the water, the bigger the waves! Since a lake isn't very deep compared to the ocean, the waves formed there exist, but are tiny, therefore often go unnoticed.
ELI5 - what happens to the wave energy when it hits the shore? Does it become wind? Energy traveling through air now instead of water? And I get that the wave moves through water, it's not the water moving, but at the apex of a wave there is more volume so some water is being displaced to create height? I really wish I'd taken more stem classes when I was younger!
Waves do not cause the water particles to be displaced, rather it causes the particles to move in a circular motions (not up and down). When it comes to current, the two can interact (waves-current interactions), changing the property of the wave (wavelength/wavenumber). Current, on the other hand, is caused by different physical phenomenons, wind, temperature/pressure difference, salinity, coriolis force, tide, etc.
I believe that waves are caused by oscillating pressures in weather systems that raise and drop the ocean surface. It's the only way I can account for the energy I'm seeing.
0:19 "2% of energy from ocean waves can be used to power the entire world". The big energy companies who keep hiking up the energy prices, do so by telling us about supply shortage. They need to see this video.
Very difficult to extract that energy. Similar to saying 0.00...1% of the suns energy can power the planet. True but irrelevant if we can't extract it.
Movement of ocean waves is ORBITAL PROGRESSIVE, which means water moves in circular orbits, due to forward up and backward down movement of water as the waves passes.
Halocline, barrier between 2 seas, barrier between fresh water and sea water or other similar phenomenon : Check quran Sura Al Furqan, chapter 25 verse 53, sura An Naml, chapter 27 verse 61, Sura Ar Rahman, chapter 55 verse 19 & 20 Thanks
Also tides are formed by tugging of water on sides of planet . The way the tides move over shores is what causes tides. If there where no shores youd not be able to even see a wave.
So on a calm day there are still waves. Gravity only makes things move down hill. Gravity doesn’t make leaves on trees move nor people. And the earth’s rotation is what makes water move. If gravity made water move then people would be surfing in their swimming pools. Make sense?
Because the 'groundswell' comes from hundreds to thousands of km's away. Wind-driven swell is no good for most people - you want gentle offshore winds to keep it nice and clean with a good swell coming in :D
Swell is waves generated by wind far away, even if calm where you are. The Earth's rotation,coupled with the moon's gravity produce tides, but waves you see on the beach are generated by wind.
I was just curious of how waves work… This is probably some useless information that will make me feel smart later. I will use this in a conversation one day.
watch the complete video and different type of waves . tidal waves are generated through pull of moon and sun which varies as earth keeps moving. so waves are occuring because of rotation of earth so earth is moving not the water
Can the ocean wave back at you? Maybe. Because in nature the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon work in harmony to create "the waves". Maybe just for you. Peace.
Waves do add but they don't transfer energy to each other. They always pass right through each other. If they run next each other at the same time and hit a shore that's just luck. Kingwaves.
The energies will will crush them all at once I will command the waves to go forth now those who committed financial transgressions against me will have to go away for some serious care they will become bags of salty sorrows
so the moon has enough gravity to pull all the earths oceans but not enough to pull the flag on the moon down it just floats like zero gravity space is a cartoon at best and this is not how this stuff worlks
tell me why chicago is visable from across the great lake its about 80 miles and should be under hundreds of feet of curve yet you can see all the way to the base of the buildings . and why no matter how high or low you are the horizon is always at eye levle when on a ball the higher you get the lower the horizon would be but it stays at eye levle@@delayedcreator4783
take the baller chalange all you have to do is proove the spinning ball earth and win ten grand and be the most famous person ever being the first person to proove it@@delayedcreator4783
My teacher used this video and I don't think she even realized how much information was in here. Great job!
After living on both coasts and this country's interior, I've seen the difference in people's attitudes towards the ocean and it's stunning. I've met so many people who have actually never been to the beach, and don't really care.
I'm taking high school marine bio. This really helped to understand the wave types and it follows the lesson criteria really well. Thanks for the help
lol im doing this in middle school
@@hottrin6103 same
@@Havetosucceed
You Forgot About Asteroid Created Tsunamis
dude, I'm taking this in 5th grade, I'll use this as proof to show my teacher that our curriculum is difficult..
fr@@RandomUsername175
For pure swells over deep water, small parcels of water actually move in small circles with a radius about the same order as the height of the wave. The radius of motion decreases as an exponential function with depth. When the water gets shallower compered to the wavelength the motion becomes more and more elliptical, first near the base. Over very shallow water the motion of parcels becomes mostly horizontal. The horizontal "shallow water" model rarely applies to wind driven waves though, as they have too short of a wavelength compared to their height, and hence tend to break easily.
Tsunamis OTOH have an extremely long wavelength compared to normal wind-generated waves. Therefore they can obey the "shallow water" model even when the water is over a hundred feet deep. The horizontal motion gets larger and larger as the water gets shallower, and it can have a long period of ten or more minutes. The long horizontal motion of water in a tsunami is what contains the destructive energy. The height isn't as important.
Best explanation on waves , answered my questions that I couldn't find elsewhere, thanks !
I'm doing home work and this video is so helpful .
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for explaining how waves work! It was really satisfying to understand that the wave moves through the particles and that the particles don’t move. Keep it up 👍👍
778
I had no idea this is amazing thank you so helpful 🙃🙂
THANK YOU YOU HELP ME PREPARE FOR MY TESTT
Nice and informative video, but 1:02 waves do not move up and down. The water particle moves in a circular (or ellips in shallow water) motions, it has velocities and accelerations in horizontal directions too. These wave kinematics are highest at the top, but decrease along the depth
Yes, but the motion becomes more of a horizontal ellipse near the base as the wave encounters shallow water. If the amplitude is large compared to the depth, a phase-decoupling occurs where upper portion of the wave travels faster than the lower portion. This leads wave breaking. After waves have fully broken they behave in a shock-like manner with a turbulent discontinuity in both height and motion at a sharp leading-edge. This discontinuous shock-like kinematic model applies to both tsunamis and smaller lapping beach waves. The motion is mostly horizontal outside of the turbulent break zone at this point.
So if no moon the oceans would be still as a lake? Awesome how coastal waves make such great ambient sounds
mikeyb byekim No, the sun is also responsible for tides
No you are wrong the thing which moon creates are tides there is a lot of difference between tides and waves
Waves are caused by air pressure and wind while tides are caused by moon there would still be waves if moon did not existed
No, only tidal waves are caused by gravity, there would still be wind-driven waves and tsunamis
@@secretunknown2782 my understanding is that with the constant rotation of Earth and the moon's gravity pulling on the ocean waters that the tides constantly changing the impacted areas inconsistently are also have waves form too
Why does large pools or a lake don't have waves? Doesn't gravity affect them too?
yes, gravity affects them, the thing is, on a much much smaller scale, a large pool would probably be still and would have no waves, this is because all the walls are not moving( unlike the continents that touch the ocean which are constantly drifting, breaking into each other, and sliding along) the lake however, would probably have mine waves because they are not exactly "controlled" and yes, a lake is a much smaller scale of the ocean, but quite larger than a pool. Yourwelcome
True
The deeper the water, the bigger the waves! Since a lake isn't very deep compared to the ocean, the waves formed there exist, but are tiny, therefore often go unnoticed.
Some lakes have waves idk why people replying to this comment say they dont. People surf on Lake Michigan. Look up ice beard surfer on yt
@@IndiaNumberOneCoubtry Thats a big lake, like a really big lake. Most lakes are not that big
That means the water literally leveled unless the waves occurred.
thanks
I am from Uzbekistan. I have never seen a beach or wave.I wish one day I will
Thank you for the very helpful video! Just wondering, what software or app do you use for animating?
You welcome I am the director
ELI5 - what happens to the wave energy when it hits the shore? Does it become wind? Energy traveling through air now instead of water? And I get that the wave moves through water, it's not the water moving, but at the apex of a wave there is more volume so some water is being displaced to create height? I really wish I'd taken more stem classes when I was younger!
the energy gets lost as sound ,heat and mainly kinetic and potential energy
Great way to start my monday morning! Thanks for the knowledge, amigo
Thanks!!
Hola como Estes
But then why there are no waves in the lakes? first 2 types of waves (wind driven, tidal waves don't apply to the lakes?
lakes aren't large enough
I'm here to learn on my own time.
What software you use for creating the animation ?
So cool
I don't think there is evidence for this theory
What
This isn't even a theory it's a fact
@@TyrannosaurusGaming prove
I've always wondered, thank you😄
a big mistake at 0:50, water actually is moving along with the wave, that is called current.
It also bobs up and down, so he just forgot to add that part.
Waves do not cause the water particles to be displaced, rather it causes the particles to move in a circular motions (not up and down). When it comes to current, the two can interact (waves-current interactions), changing the property of the wave (wavelength/wavenumber). Current, on the other hand, is caused by different physical phenomenons, wind, temperature/pressure difference, salinity, coriolis force, tide, etc.
I believe that waves are caused by oscillating pressures in weather systems that raise and drop the ocean surface. It's the only way I can account for the energy I'm seeing.
Sooooo...you mean the speed of tidal waves equals to the speed of the earth's rotation?
thanks this was helpful.
What makes the waves return to the sea
gravity which again pulls water down
Hhhhhh good question
Great video thanks
Love your animations
Thank you !
0:19 "2% of energy from ocean waves can be used to power the entire world".
The big energy companies who keep hiking up the energy prices, do so by telling us about supply shortage. They need to see this video.
Very difficult to extract that energy. Similar to saying 0.00...1% of the suns energy can power the planet. True but irrelevant if we can't extract it.
Concerning channel
Wavey tings 🌊🌊🌊
enjoybel explanation
Thanks so much
Everyone here is for either exams or quizzes 😂
M not just curious
I was just curious cause my best friend want to do a photoshoot in a beach with no waves
Curiosity
Curiousity
Ok well not all people
1:05 id works by doing both moving forward and up and down
Movement of ocean waves is ORBITAL PROGRESSIVE, which means water moves in circular orbits, due to forward up and backward down movement of water as the waves passes.
Helpful video
Halocline, barrier between 2 seas, barrier between fresh water and sea water or other similar phenomenon :
Check quran
Sura Al Furqan, chapter 25 verse 53,
sura An Naml, chapter 27 verse 61,
Sura Ar Rahman, chapter 55 verse 19 & 20
Thanks
So?
“Who kept the sea inside its boundaries
as it burst from the womb,
job 38:8
tidal swell
Also tides are formed by tugging of water on sides of planet . The way the tides move over shores is what causes tides. If there where no shores youd not be able to even see a wave.
If there were no shores, there would still be wind generated waves, just the same (but you'd need a to have a boat to see it)
POV: your here cause of school -_-
Physics 😩😩😩
geography ;-;
geography😐
no I randomly google this
Same trying to impress my “smart” friend
Why water stored in big dams n big ponds do not create waves, crests, n tides due to gravitational force of moon n sun???
Thanks for knowledge. Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👏👏
So on a calm day there are still waves. Gravity only makes things move down hill. Gravity doesn’t make leaves on trees move nor people.
And the earth’s rotation is what makes water move. If gravity made water move then people would be surfing in their swimming pools.
Make sense?
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww1/w-d-xo.html00
Because the 'groundswell' comes from hundreds to thousands of km's away.
Wind-driven swell is no good for most people - you want gentle offshore winds to keep it nice and clean with a good swell coming in :D
Swell is waves generated by wind far away, even if calm where you are. The Earth's rotation,coupled with the moon's gravity produce tides, but waves you see on the beach are generated by wind.
I was just curious of how waves work… This is probably some useless information that will make me feel smart later. I will use this in a conversation one day.
How do the wave energy dissipate when it reaches the shore?
friction
this video reminds me of school videos so pce out.
Wow u science is really good
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww8/w-d-xo.html
So the water is moving to only up and down in the ocean but once it reaches the shore it essentially moves left to right as well
Can someone tell me it’s not just me and waves and water are the same
great informational video, but animation is even betterrrrr
please redo this video w a better mic or less static in the background super distracting
This is interesting..Thank you
Waves now scare me
I beat up a dead puffer fish on the shore
Wth‽
God : Haah , I make the earth puked again
I’m just curious
Someone need to clarify the "It's the earth that's moving, not the water" bit for me in 02:03.
watch the complete video and different type of waves . tidal waves are generated through pull of moon and sun which varies as earth keeps moving. so waves are occuring because of rotation of earth so earth is moving not the water
love it
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww7/w-d-xo.html5
Wow
Actually the sun has a similar effect on tides as the moon. Yeah it's less but not as much as you'd think.
He said "The gravitational forces on the Earth, Sun and Moon effect how the water on the Earth behaves. The Moon has the greatest effect on waves"
@@VexxdGaming not everyone listens😂
Very informative
1:50
wow
Hi
I thought waves were caused by the rotation of the Earth. I think it was called the Coriolis effect?
here bc of ✨ school ✨
Can the ocean wave back at you? Maybe. Because in nature the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon work in harmony to create "the waves". Maybe just for you. Peace.
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww2/w-d-xo.html
I'm from colage
4 my gcse😅😢
Correction: Our oceans ripple, move, due to the constant motion of the Waters Below
our stable enclosed Earth.
❤God's Truth.
No hablo ingles muy bien pero entiendo demasiaso bien
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww5/w-d-xo.html0
What does it mean the water doesn't actually move. I can feel it hitting me so hard when I go to the beach though!
your feeling the energy release against the shore as stated at end of this video.
In my school this is work for year 5 XD
How can wind create the energy a wave has below the surface?
Yeet
Waves do add but they don't transfer energy to each other. They always pass right through each other. If they run next each other at the same time and hit a shore that's just luck. Kingwaves.
The moon
The energies will will crush them all at once I will command the waves to go forth now those who committed financial transgressions against me will have to go away for some serious care they will become bags of salty sorrows
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww5/w-d-xo.html
very helpful accept for the math part
Oh God mother
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww4/w-d-xo.html5
Oh God Mother
Oh God Father
Oh Devil 😈 Mother
Oh Devil 😈 Father
Like my science teacher
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww1/w-d-xo.html0
Why moon does not impact the water kept in the pond or river 😆
its simply not large enough
Why t f wasnt I taught this in school 😂
so the moon has enough gravity to pull all the earths oceans but not enough to pull the flag on the moon down it just floats like zero gravity space is a cartoon at best and this is not how this stuff worlks
The flag in the moon has a rod at the top to keep it straight. This is literally exactly how gravity works.
earth definitely isn't flat
tell me why chicago is visable from across the great lake its about 80 miles and should be under hundreds of feet of curve yet you can see all the way to the base of the buildings . and why no matter how high or low you are the horizon is always at eye levle when on a ball the higher you get the lower the horizon would be but it stays at eye levle@@delayedcreator4783
take the baller chalange all you have to do is proove the spinning ball earth and win ten grand and be the most famous person ever being the first person to proove it@@delayedcreator4783
Tsunami can also be produced by men, with atomic bomb deep under water
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww2/w-d-xo.html6
Traducción in espanish pls thanks
meeeeeeeeee
Don’t watch this while high
Literally watching this while high lol😂
hymc
Who's here because of school
hehe dislike number funny *sad noises while in class*
Wow hi, didn't expect to find a fellow classmate in a TH-cam comment section. Well, it was nice finding you I guess.
All BS, believe it.
flat earther😂
E
Here after watching Baywatch. Dunno why...
No waves in rivers or big lakes, whatever you teach you couldn't get the real reason for waves because it the ability of Allah
th-cam.com/video/bscVisWj_Ww9/w-d-xo.html0
Now I can sleep + I know what's the relation between moon and waves