Imax B6 charger clone autopsy.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2025
- This charger apparently let the magic smoke out when one of the output leads touched the case. Let's see if we can find out what failed.
If I can find a suitable replacement resistor then we can try and reincarnate this unit in a future video.
If you enjoy this channel you can help support it with a dollar for coffee, cookies and gadgets at:-
www.bigclive.co...
I can only speak for myself, but I think repair videos would be very enjoyable.
I do agree!
In this matter, you may speak for me as well!
I think that Clive has a calling for teaching electronics and diy classes in university. He's very interesting and knowledgeable, enjoys doing dangerous things for experiments and examples and knows how to make them safe(r).
-- The thing is that this is a hobby fo him now. Teaching is a job. And when a hobby turns to a job... it usually just gets boring
RecurveNinja
I already watch repair videos from other YT channels, so yeah I wouldn't mind them at all. I think it's fun to repair things. Some people are really against repairing things, I don't know why. They seem to think it's a waste of time. But it's not - you learn in the process, and also engage critical thinking and deduction skills!
I bought one of these chargers a while back to live on my workbench I will now need to go and research if mine is fake, but what I can say is that I looked at some comparison videos between real and fake... and neither of them are confidence inspiring... I've never trusted it, and I always find myself unpacking one of my iCharger units... I have nothing but praise for the iCharger 3010b, or the 208b, they are both worth the extra money, and infinitely more confidence inspiring....
Also, the software on the iCharger units operates the same, but has 2 or 3 times more features, and far fewer bugs.
Hi bigclive, do you came across any cheap Chinese thing that includes a decent rechargeable batteries so that it will be cheaper than buying batteries itself , really wired thought but still searching for it .
I have a similar one, Turnigy Accucell charger. Anyway, it popped in a similar manor like these cheap things tend to do. It was a 50 ohm 2 watt. I didn't have a two watt resistor, but used four 1/2 watt'ers in parallel. Works great! Also note, if the wrong resistor value or tolerance is used it may overcharge the battery which WILL cause your lipo to catch fire! After repairing, be sure to check the output voltage is correct and the end of charge voltage is correct with a DMM.
Hi Clive,
I just pulled the lid off mine and had a look for you, it is indeed 0.5r
My B6 Clone has Black, Green, Silver, Gold in that position (though it is installed reversed right to left from the photo you show). the other resistor is a blue casing: Black, Green. Black, Silver and the board layout is a bit different (again, installed reverse from the example you have).
The supplied Crocodile clips are pretty terrible and could easily short against each other. The only output protection I can see is a line in the manual that basically paraphrases the Chostbusters:
"Dr. Egon Spengler: There's something very important I forgot to tell you.
Dr. Peter Venkman: What?
Dr. Egon Spengler: Don't cross the streams.
Dr. Peter Venkman: Why?
Dr. Egon Spengler: It would be bad."
I have one these chargers i assume its the real version as the hologram on the back which contains a unique code that can be checked online , does that one have the usb interface? i couldn't see the port.
The cloning problem with those units was so bad for a while that even SKYRC was having trouble telling them apart till they started labeling each unit with holographic stickers but even then that may not stop a ghost shift or really close copy from making it out of china bypassing those security measures. just like what happened with many of the e-cig products.
Magic Smoke is a precious resource.
*****
Exactly!
I had a very similar failure of a better version of this. It had SMD resistors for charge/discharge current detection, I shorted the leads during charge or discharge (cannot remember which) and blew the ass out of one of the resistors. I just twiddled around with low value resistors and ended up putting two ceramic ones in parallel over the old one. I just shot in the dark and experimented with different values until the charge/discharge current of the unit was showing the same as my DMM on the charge leads. Mind you when the value is way too low the unit of course charges at quite exciting current values :-)
Very interested in a follow up on this one. Hopefully that's something that ends up being possible at some point. Thanks Clive!
I have one of those little chargers, I am quite sure it is a clone as the price was very low. It seems to do the job alright, though I have never touched the unit with the leads, now I will be sure not to. Thanks for the videos, I was going into Clive withdrawal.
Hi Clive,
what is the name of the IC at 2:30 minutes you are talking about. Mine exploded and cant figure out the name of the IC now.
But could it be thats the same IC on the left side of the board? Thanks in advance.
Got it. It is the 4468 smd. thx for your help
Its in the chat.. look it up. It was an Asian dude and he had to order 10.. and he was replying to a comment.. hope you read this.. I have the same problem as the person that owned the one in this video...
This is pretty relevant to me because I had one fail in a similar way. Venom PR2 charger had a 0.5ohm resistor burned out, and (i think) a mosfet. Might the .5ohm resistors be some sort of shunt for measuring current?
Clive I can confirm that the resistor is indeed a 0.5 Ohm 3 Watt ;-)
I assume you have the same unit as this? seems like you are confident of that fact ;-)
Hopefully he can repair it and do an in depth video on it I think a lot of people have these (including me) so be nice to get some more info..
+Dave Webster (Webstaff) yes I have repaired a similar unit with that resistor being burnt, the bands survived colour wise ;-) and the MOSFET survived
well most probably he could make the resistor himself in case those are hard to find either winding fine wire around a ceramic rod or by puting 10 5ohm 1/4 resistors in parallel
if the suspected resistor is burnt out O/C clean up the wire and put a DVM and see if you can get a reading from one end to the O/C. then from the other end to the O/C. From that information and how far along the O/C is along the ceramic resistor barrel you should be able to calculate a ratio and therefore a good approximation of the original resistance. If you can't get the correct resistor you can always make your one with some Nichrome wire.
Could you do any of those teardowns? I am interested in technical analysis of those items.
• Generic microphone amplifier, which is sometimes used in schools to boost the voice
• Ultra cheap disposable camera with flash built into it
• Bluetooth selfie remote
• Cheap toy walkie-talkies (probably ones with "TF" on it, which strangely looks like a ripoff logo from Faze Clan)
• Generic 16x2 character display
• Peltier element dehumidifier
• Portable MP3 radio thing (with knockoff Nokia BL-05 battery in it)
• RC helicopter (including the motor)
• Water fountain speakers (the ones which shoot stream of water in enclosed space when the "bass" drops)
• Flux-core lead based solder
• Annoy-a-Tron
• Handheld UV sanitizer
• Selfie stick (with built-in non-Bluetooth remote button which occupies headphone socket)
• Samsung Stylus thing
• Spot heat skin sanitizer (the tip heats up and supposedly kills acne-causing germs)
In one of your videos you recommended buying massive bags of LEDs so they're cheap, but then you don't know the forward voltage etc. So do you test each or just guestimate?
As a rough guide the forward voltage of a red or yellow LED will be around 2V while a blue, green, white and UV LED will be around 3V.
Depends on what you want to do with them. If you're just using a single LED or multiple LEDs where brightness differences don't matter you can go with the voltages as Clive said.
If you intend to build something where it's important that LEDs light up equally or you want to know the voltage for maximum brightness, it would be better if you'd use a constant current source (set to 20mA, the typical current for all those LEDs) to test them. You can easily build one from pretty much any linear voltage regulator (LM317, LM7805,...) and a resistor (google is your friend for details). If you set it up nicely (so you just have to plug in a LED into the breadboard with the multimeter connected for example) you can check the forward voltage of a LED at that set current within seconds. Do that for 10 or 20. If the voltages vary wildly (>0.1V) for the same color then I'd check all of them and maybe sort them into bins. If they are all similar I wouldn't bother checking the other ones, but of course label the bag with the typical measured forward voltage.
Depending on your needs you still might want to check all of them, because the quality of these bulk bags can be like a lottery. I had bags with duds or mismatching colors, even one where the kathode and anode of all the LEDs were switched (especially funny because in that case because it was a bag of IR LEDs that you never see light up anyway, only find out that you've soldered a bunch of them the wrong way round because your project does not work).
superdau Thanks,I'll definitely have to save this comment away somewhere, I'm trying to get back into electronics. I've forgotten everything! This really helps, although I don't even have a multimeter(yet) ;)
Clive i think a few people on rcgroups had the same issue, accidentally touching the casing with the positive banana hjack while a pack was plugged in, and it burnet out a track on the board, the fix was to use a jumper wire
ive seen so many houses burnt down due to these chargers, i got rid of mine just to be on the safe side and got a htrc c240 duo charger
Looks like the charger I have :o
Hopefully mine isn't garbage. So far so good, but when these chargers go bad, the real danger is the battery going nuclear on you.
Hey, could you open yours up and see if you can read the color rings on that resistor for big Clive?
Ron Kihn Hmm... I think I'll try that, I'll also be able to see if the board layout is the same.
Ron Kihn ok, I got mine apart, and it looks like a different one. Mine might actually be genuine, but I do see two large resistors (in series?). They are near the negative battery terminal, and from left to right (both colors and resistors) it goes green, brown, white, red, black for the first one, and black, red, silver, brown, green for the other one. I'm not sure of the order for the colors, because they seem to be a color code I'm not familiar with. Why is there a silver band in the middle? Beats me, but I hope this info is useful to whoever finds it :) If you want a photo, I can send one and post a link.
Ron Kihn Also, I noticed that one the back of the board, there are two TO-220 packages on the back with insulating thermal pads that go to the metal case. Perhaps with the one in this video, the thermal conduction was also electrically conductive.
finally been waiting for you to do an Imax charger
I have a knock off as well, for the price you can't go wrong, been using it over a year now with no issues. Best $22 I ever spent.
Just out of curiosity: has this thing been resurrected since the video was made?
The interesting thing is too, the board has 2 through holes for reverse connection protection, but nothing is stuffed there. The two holes are located top right, between the larger connectors and the surface mount resistor field. You might want to add the protection in there while you're at it.
Probably being already said but the resistor is a black green silver gold black. But really low quality on these clones the one the side of my close already is loosing the color bands.
Also a repair video would be nice.
Im upgrading the firmware will see how it goes.
Be interesting to see what you think of these Clive. I ordered an Imax B6AC from a Chinese supplier 2 weeks ago, it should be with me soon. I knew in advance that it was a clone, but at half the price, thought it worth the risk. The consensus I am seeing on the intertubes sort of says that they are OK. Guess I will find out with use.
Did you you sort this out ?
A couple of days ago I was asking about this charger on another video of yours .
The mosfet that you touch in this video at 1:45mins , that is the mosfet that burnt out on me , after connecting a li ion battery the wrong way round .
Waiting on it to arrive . Have a couple of questions , If you do not mind .
1,) what other components should I check / test after that mosfet ?
or rather what other components would be affected because that mosfet burnt out .
Also I could not actually tell what all the numbers and letter were on my burnt out mosfet , I could see that it was NCE3010 .
But I have noticed on new ones online , that there are more numbers and letter under were it say NCE3010 but as mine was burnt I could not tell .
2,) Any chance you would be able to enlighten please .
On a side note ,
I found a pdf , and on that one , that mosfet was an AO 4468 BV265U or it is BVB5U , but that BV number is an example of what I would like to be enlighten about as looking up the NCE3010 , there were loads of different options on that 2nd part of it , but again , mine was burnt I could not tell .
Hope I have not made a mistake in picking the one I did .
It's hard to say what other components will be affected. You could examine the ones in the vicinity for signs of damage. The other letters on MOSFETs are usually manufacturing codes.
I purchased an iMax B6 from a seller, it was cheap, only worked 4 times before it died and won't power on.
The unit was stripped and I checked a few items, my first part I checked was a really beefy Rectifier Diode, my meter beeped to say it was OK, so I tried the second one, it didn't beep my meter... So I reversed the poles and tried again to be sure I hadn't got polarity wrong, it still didn't beep. So the issue here in my iMax B6 was a diode.
The point is that these machines are made of cheap parts and it is hard to tell a genuine seller from a clone seller. In my case trading standards were interested in my purchase and although the seller did a refund (about 95% of the cost) it shows that these items are so cheap that the cloners are ripping people off.
what about disassenbling a vtcmini or an istick pico? it will be very interesting, they can be found for 20 bucks on gearbest
Took my fake apart to see if I could tell you the resistances but the PCB on mine is very different. Mine was a closer copy of the original.
How can you tell if you have a clone or an original? Because i own obe of these
Why does it have 2 types of resistors? Ceramic through hole and surface mount? Different demands of them?
+jjensen2492 that makes sense. More power and the larger ones dissipate the heat better. Thanks
Could you please give us the pinout layout? Is it from left (when the port is located upper_left):
+Vcc, GND, RES, MOSI, MISO, SCK?
There's a way to find the rough value of the resistor by sanding the middle of the body, and measuring to which ever side that's still intact, that should be half of the original value. From the remaining color band, it shouldn't be too hard to guess the original value. I've done that a few times for similarly burnt resistors when repairing
That's a good idea. Sadly, this one has such a low value that it's hard to measure even if it was intact.
+bigclivedotcom lol, I usually null out the probe resistance manually by measuring the resistor's lead but not letting the probe touch each other
wheatstone bridge
Richard Kaz ...which relies on having high-precision resistors in the bridge....
This seems to be 0.51 ohm resistor (black, green, brown, silver, whatever color for tolerance).
I have one beside me charging 18650s right now.
Mine has been faultless (it's the mains version) but am looking to buy a good 'yay or nay' charger with nothing more than a red or green LED to tell me when the batteries are finished charging..
Your theory sounds spot on, making the case ground or live is stupid :-(
That screen is really small for playing an imax movie on
Have you ever set your beard on fire?
It may have been scorched by sparks occasionally.
Clive, were you in Birkenhead today?
another great video! ive got a set of 12v led projector lights for a motorbike but theyre 3 modes low strobe and high... any way to convert it to single high mode? im fairly competent with a soldering iron
I killed a 4 button charger that way once. Shorted the positive with a battery plugged in to ground. I would love to see a repair video.
I have an identical one to that one. Black Green Silver Gold is what is in mine. In fact, both of the wirewound resistors are the same values , if that helps any.
Great -love this style of video, far too much is simply thrown out when it's still repairable.
It's a pity that the owner didn't catch the magic smoke, and send it to you in a ziplock bag, so you could put it back in, and fix this beasty without the need for new parts ;) .
That would have worked except the container the smoke was held in ruptured (the resistor), so trying to put it back in would have just resulted in it leaking back out...... It's advised that if you were to attempt doing this you first need to use the "magic smoke part patch kit" and those are very hard to find and costly.... :p
MrTeddyMMM
LOL. Yes, the only time of the year that you can actually buy these patch kits is the first of April.
It is so odd that such a popular repair device is available for only 1 day per year ;) .
I've got one of these from SkyRC, mine had an authentication sticker on the bottom. Updating it is a bit wonky to figure out at first and the output maxes at only 60w. Other than that it's quite a nice little charger.
Bigclive can u help me i have a replica b6charger which worked fine till i connected the power in cables the wrong way (oops) now dead i think i have singled out the culprit but cannot find one anywhere im looking for a nce4435 where would i be able to get one of these hopefully i will find one
I bought one 5 years ago for $20 to charge 4 of my 12v 20Ah battery pack that i made...I still use it now,im amazed it lasted this long.I was thinking about 2 more of them,because it takes ages with one
looks like green brown silver which would be 0.51 ohms. I guess it could be 5.1 ohms (green brown gold) but I don't think that makes sense in that part of the circuit.
Stumbled across your channel. I have the genuine Imax. This was extremely interesting. Cheers. 🏅✔🌟🍻🏆
Sweet! Repair videos are great!
Hey Clive do a tear down of a tens machine lad, love to see how they work, been using one for a year for my back.
I've got a couple in the pile awaiting their turn.
wahoo cheers big fella :)
My clone was $14 shipped and has worked for over a year..thanks for the tip..keep + lead away from the case..BTW for $14 how much effort do you really want to put into fixing a dead one..
We Bought a imax charger and when we received it we found out it was a clone.
We tested it and it just didn't work. It turned on and you could charge a battery with it.
But the problem was that the voltage sensor inside the unit was malfunctioning and caused the battery to discharge. But at least we got a refund for it. At the end we used it as parts for my arduino. The buzzer, LCD and buttons can all be used with an arduino.
When a resistor is put into a circuit to act as a sort of fuse as this one seems to have been is it just an ordinary resistor or is there a special type for that function? and if so what is it called?
You do get fusible resistors, but standard metal film resistors are also used for their controlled failure.
It is a special type and it's called fusible resistor. A main difference to a normal resistor is that it fails without flames and around a specified current.
No input or output protection?
i have one...would you like me to take a ohm's reading of the resistor ?
You might find it hard to measure. The very low resistance values are hard to differentiate from the resistance of the meter leads and contact resistance.
Kelvin measurement will save your day, that if you have reasonably precise current source.
Odd audio on this one, or is it just me? Other videos have a better "spread", using front, left and right channels as expected. This one has the audio just coming out of my front channel for me.
That's the original iPad being used. I've been using different cameras while travelling.
The simple way to identify a fake one is that the silver buttons are moulded as one piece on the genuine item, so wobble one and they all wobble in synch. The fakes use four separate mouldings so they wobble individually. I love the simple solutions in life.
is that a fusible resistor? its exploded like one.
Did you get it working in the end Clive all good stuff Jeff.
What program you use to edit your videos?
Did you ever get it back working
looking at other teardowns the two wirewound resistors are a matched pair, the other looks in tact to same value would be a fair bet.
congrats on the Machinima label, Love all ur vids!!
Hey, I was just wondering if you had a twitter or something similar where someone would be able to ask you questions etc?
What's wrong with here? Twitter sucks!
jpalm32 Seems a little natural and wouldn't be filled with as much clutter as the youtube comments
comments+youtube messaging
I think it's a 0.05 ohms since similar Chinese chargers use two 0.1 ohm in parallel.
I use the same value in my designs since it's quite suitable value for current sensing and the voltage drop across it is not so high.
A partial refund for a fake? I wouldn't accept that, full refund, and no trading standards
Most sellers declare these things clearly as fakes (hobbyking for example)
And for what is really a user error? I'm amazed that he even got that.
It's not user error, as it doesn't have any I/O protection like it should have.
When I fed phantom power (48VDC) into a consumer sound card and killed it, was that my fault or the manufacturer's fault for having any I/O protection?
+simontay1984 Resistors are often employed as fuses in consumer gear as they can serve double duty as both current sensor and overload protection without an increase in parts count (as in, money saved versus a much more costly fuse and holder), they are essentially equivalent to an extremely slow-blow fuse and like fuses, they fail in a generally predictable manner. Fuses are not perfect though, either, as they can have a rather large and not perfectly predictable voltage drop at high currents. You would expect better protection in industrial equipment, but this is pretty much the norm for typical consumer gear, particularly on less expensive gear.
Interesting video. I've got a real one of these along with a fake, the fake is a little glitchy when setting up and the build quality is obviously slightly lower (from the outside, I've not opened them) than the real one, but other then that it is quite hard to tell them apart, so be vigilant when buying as the fakes are often passed off as genuine.
I have a b6 clone and i have noticed it does discharge lithium cells to 3.3-3.2 v according to a multimeter, istead of the onscreen voltage of 3.0 v, do i need to calibrate the charger or it not fixable?
I'd suggest not trying to calibrate it. That voltage is close enough for discharge as the capacity is almost completely depleted at that point and the voltage falls rapidly.
Thanks for the info, so the 0.3 v difference at this voltage will not impact the capacity measurement accuracy, however i have no idea how accurate the clones are (not expecting much). I guess i have to get a high quality cell and compare the measurement results with the rated capacity, i guess.
3:10 considering its a Knock-off I'd be very surprised if they had any thought as to how it fails.
there handy little gizmos these. mine is fake im thinking, still does the trick though.
Yea, I like repair video's. I usually fix all of my electronics and not always successful but I try. Please fix it. I think it would make for a good video.
I bought a clone B6 knowing full well it's a clone and cost a fraction of an original because for what i need it won't be under any stress so will take the gamble.
I have the clone version of the standard b6 will crack it open and get the resistor value for ya.
Does this automatically stop charging batteries or do you have to this in the settings ?
It should stop automatically according to the requirements of the type of batteries on charge.
I'm trying to charge lithium ion and lipo batteries
@@davidferguson8478 With these chargers you can set the type of battery, number of cells and charge current.
You're probably overthinking the resistor type. It's a knock-off, they likely had no cares about safety and just used whatever was cheapest.
my imax has Overvoltage error, the problem was the mosfet 8-pin AO4468 and AO4407A and IRZF44 3 pin mosfet were damaged , I replaced these components and my imax clone was repaired
Mine is good, it balances faster than the turnigy one, but when I put it in storage mode, sometimes it ends prematurely.
Having the clone or not doesn't really matter, both preform darn well. I have a fake ( i think) one and it is money well spend.(Not the B6AC like in the video)
I have that same thing.
works well after years.
A while ago i made a repair video of this one.
That big discharge mosfet on the back of the board was blown
found the .5 ohm resister to Mach the burned out one on ebay for $3.70 us dollars for 8 of them. Want hard to find oddly enough
Nice auto psy of that B6 charger! (No idea why I read that from the subject)
i got an IMAX clone... the positive lead came out and touched the case and caused my LIPO to blow up.
I hope you didnt got hurt :o
Did something else cought fire or got damaged?
KaienSander10 no, luckily the lipo was in a lipo bag and on a steel table. the entire room filled with smoke, but most of us got out before the smoke reached our lungs.
+RKSNomad Well that's good to hear that nobody got hurt! :)
I use mine on a concrete floor and away from people (checking it's not catching fire via a remote camera). These things scare me.
But if you want to buy a genuine one, there a 90% chance you'll get the clone (for the price of the real thing) so I thought I'd spent clone money on the clone...
fabts4 i stopped using those. look at my new baby. site.hobbypartz.com/75P-T6-Multi-Charger-01.jpg
The ones we've got have laptop battery chargers inside them that have been hacked apart... no surpirse we only have 1 left that still works out of 3. Hoppy king is terrible!
the authentic B6 units are cheap enough. mine was only 30 bucks or so and is the genuine skyRC unit. if you just search by lowest price you WILL get a knock off unit.
How do you know for sure when you order?
+fabts4 it should tell you in the add, but the case looks different the original (non AC) has a big red IMAX in the bottom right corner with a big yellow B6 under it for starters. but the best way is to go to their website and look at the model your buying to know what it looks like
interesting! got it, too... but don't know if it is the original.
got a genuine one. just verified the laser sticker on the website and it sais it is ok. want pictures?
+bigclivedotcom The genuine B6 mini has USB for PC software as well
My imax b6 died recently too when the mosfet to the bottom left of the LCD let out the magic smoke!
I'm glad I have a original one!
I really like it, it's pretty accurate
HAve you ever gone shopping, just out of curiosity for RC stuff? And then if you would do, you wouldn't give Hobby King.com a miss would you? Delivery times might be up there, though you do have a UK warehouse so you can rule that out. But the prices for something like the real BA6 5A charger is quite a good one. And while your ae there, check out their LiPo battery pricing w ironclad warranty) and models of all kinds, and electronic goodness , and brushless motors, ESC's Etc, etc ! PLease send us news from the front. The theatrical productions if you can!
not sure about the clone but the originals is Black, red,white, brown, green.
Even the legit B6 chargers were a death trap waiting to happen. Lithium batteries are harsh but fair; don't over charge or discharge them and they don't explode, so naturally the B6 doesn't monitor individual cell voltages when fast charging. If you have a pack with a cell that's lower than the others it will go bang! The newer SkyRC chargers like the S60 are much safer.
Ive got one of those, advertised as OEM IMax b6 on amazon. Seller refunded me after contacting amazon about it being a clone/fake
the charger works ok, not sure on its accuracy though as i only have a cheap multimeter which reads 4.26v after battery is charged
I keep seeing those JWCO capacitors in all kinds of super cheap kits & knockoff electronics. If you open something up and see JWCO caps, you can almost bet it's a knockoff.
They're not actually all that bad though for cheap caps in my experience. I put one in the secondary stage of a laptop charger as a temporary fix; it's been in there a year now and seems OK so I see no reason to change it.
That resistor must have gone incandescent to fail like this. There's plenty of 0,5 ohm resistors on Farnell though, maybe socket that resistor for easy replacement like a fuse.
uk.farnell.com/welwyn/w21-0r5ji/resistor-ww-3w-5-0r5/dp/9503560
uk.farnell.com/ohmite/43fr50e/3w-0-5-ohm-1-silicon-ww-axl/dp/2448946
uk.farnell.com/ohmite/45fr50e/5w-0-5-ohm-1-silicone-ww-axl/dp/2448964
i made the same mistake, and purchased a clone off ebay.
Ended up getting a refund because my clone had issues and did some strange things.
any how.. if you need any items tested or picture taken just drop me a message.
I can measure that resistor if you like etc, or take pics
cheers
Hi... My Imax B6 AC charger, enter button is not working, i am pressing it for a second or pressing for long time let say 10-15 seconds but it is not working.
Nothing is happening by pressing enter button.
Can you please let me know what is the issue.
Try bridging the button carefully to see if the circuitry works. It's very common for the cheap tactile buttons to fail.
Just stick a length of wire on it that comes to 1/2ohm and test it.
Ok just took my copy apart to see this Resistor...
Colours are black, green, silver, gold & Black.