Forging the mini railroad spike tomahawk - blacksmith challenge - part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2018
- After the other days failed attempt to forge a rail spike tomahawk, I thought we would make a second (successful) attempt. This mini railroad spike was made as a part of the blacksmith challenge from a piece of 1/2 x 1/2 x 3" spring steel.
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What a fabulous little tomahawk. Looks great....well done.. enjoyed the video
I enjoy the full process
The part about recentering while drifting is helpful. Thank you
I want to say that the last couple of videos have seemed to be edited in a "quicker" fashion. I appreciate that. It seems more in line of how a smith works- cold? heat it, beat it, repeat it.
I'm not aware of anything that is really different. Just the nature of the project. There is often a great deal that must be done that does not occur at the anvil
Perhaps past videos would include a hot piece laid on the anvil, then a description of the action to follow, then the action. Just seemed swifter.
Good job John! I actually made one of these last year with an actual railroad spike. A great learning experience!
Boy that's quite the challenge. Soon as I can get out to the shop I'll make something too. Again I really love how you make clear what you do and why. I've seen many videos where I scratch my head and think, what's he doing why's he doing that. I'm getting some things together to send you out a package. Thanks again John.
You have my curiosity up.
John, I heartily agree with the other comments.. Very good job and please continue to show your failures as well as successes.
Im glad I found this video when I did I went by the scrap yard today and picked up 4 rail road spikes now I know what im going to do with at least one of them
Good luck with your tomahawk. I've got a load of railroad spikes and a tomahawk will be my next project too
Thanks again John, looking forward to part 2.
Love your creativity, always multiple answers to a problem. 👍I always was hesitant to start on a tomahawk project but this makes it easy to start, thank you!
What could go wrong? I went into my first expecting a laughable failure - ended up with a nice finished product.
Absolutely Brilliant & Beautiful!!! Another Piece of Functional Art From Black Bear Forge!!!
Thank you
I love your mini tomahawk this was very helpful
I've loved this video series so far. Seeing the failures and how you dealt with them helps a learner like me mentally prepare so I don't become frustrated and give up. Can't wait for the next video sir.
I like your clamp. That’s a very versatile design.
Put a pice of 2x4 in the vice to stop your spike from hammering out. Between the vice jaws. Under the spike.
To me it looks much more difficult to make than a bigger axe. At least from the video. Turned out looking good.
Great video 👍 from a new mate in Australia.
Thanks and welcome
Good job!
Awsume just as the video was ending and you mentioned annealing or normalizing, I thought to myself hmm I wonder what the difference really is! Can't wait to find out. Thanks for all you do!
That video should be up next
Sei proprio un grande maestro di forgia
idk if this would work but when im doing any kind of bushcraft or wood working where i need to hammer one tool with another i tend to use a wooden tool such as a mallet so that it doesnt harm the steel, maybe if you put a wooden block in there as a support it would help? idk if that would cause the wood to burn or not, might need to also use a layer of damp rags
Very good sir
Just watching this video @ the 5:30 mark and am wondering if putting a piece of softwood in the vise under the head of the spike would’ve stopped it from sinking while hammering and not deforming the spike head at the same time?
Much better process using the two punch method to achieve the desired eye.
Could you use a block of wood to support the head, in the vice, without upsetting the head? That probably a dumb question, but I just had to ask lol
I guess if you can make axes from 5160, you can make small hammer heads?
When your vice handle slides to the end of its length and rings out a tone that i used to hear in my fathers shop
Your vice looks very similar
Funny how something so simple and insignificant can trigger a childhood memory of the many hours i spent next to that vice thanks for triggering the memory
magnetize the iron block so it dont move as much
I have yet to watch an episode that isn't helpful! Thank you!
What if you put a block of wood under the head of the spike in the vise when upsetting, shouldn't mash the head but still give you grip.
+black bear forge , I've watched so many of your hammer/tool videos involving eyes and many others two. But I've just realised I don't know why a punch (or in this case chisel) and drift aren't the same tool.
i.e. why dont punches taper into the shape size that a drift has.
Thanks for your time.
In some cases they are. But for eyes that will see a lot of refinement during the drifting stage the abuse on the punch would deform the tool and perhaps make it unsuitable as a punch. Another consideration is that a few punches or chisels will create a hole that can be refined by many different drift shapes.
I also picked up a fork lift fork to make an anvel out of do u have any videos on doing that
I have heard of it, but never seen one done that way
For hammering in the vise...
Would a U shaped bar, with arms bent back over the jaws, lend sufficient support to the piece to limit/stop slipping down through the jaws?
probably, but for a one time project I'm not sure it matters that much.
Black Bear Forge : Thanks for the reply!👍
Just making notes to self for future reference .🤔😉
Did you make the clamp when you were chisel and what video shows how to make it
th-cam.com/video/MTJQSM_FQsg/w-d-xo.html
This was the video where John made the clamp
I want to point this out to you but the copper that you have on your Vice is absorbing the Heat it's cooling down really quickly
Thanks but there is no copper on my vise.
Are RR spikes generally hardensble steel? I used some a grader teeth to groom my horse arena and the ground down to stubs in a hurry.
I did not try to harden them.
Some are some aren't bot none of them get real hard.
Is there a way to anneal airhardening steel for making it softer?
Yes, but it requires precise temperature control over a long cooling period. For instance S7 requires cooling from 1500 to 950 at a rate of 25 degrees per hour
Black Bear Forge Thanks for letting me know.
What kind of pencil is that you're using to make your marks?
It is a silver welders pencil. Most welding shops sell them
Why is it important to cool your cutting wedge? Just wondering, im very new.
When a tool gets hot it gets softer and won't hold an edge as well.
Just a question but couldn’t you hot cut the end of the spike and forge the two halves out to make the blade?
I really don't understand what you're asking
If you hot cut the end of the spike and forge the two halves out in opposite directions and then flatten them to make your cutting edge
Do you run coal or coke in your forge?
I have used both, but run a propane forge most of the time. When i do use solid fuel it tends to be coal, just because I have a ton or so on hand.
Anyone know what kind of anvil that is
Its a Hay Budden
@@BlackBearForge my favorite
If you changed the bolt holes on your clamping jig you might have an easier time with it.
That is probably true. But for one small project bring the wedge in over the tail of the anvil worked pretty well.
I would agree