I enjoy how you go through the processes and explain why and how you do what you do. You've made some nice pieces. With some oratory work you will be a great TH-cam blacksmith.
I've got a couple of questions about these viking hand axe/ hawks. First, are you using high carbon railroad spikes (stamped HC on the head)? Second, how did they perform as hawks? Throw well? Hold an edge for long?etc... Thanks for another great video Phil, truly helpful, and exactly what I'm looking for to break in to forging.
You need to check it to see if it's nonmagnect and quench in warm oil or water not cold oil if you want it hard hard need a little more practice and you'll be spot on just watch how thin you get your metal cause as you see it will burn up but good job
My understanding is that welding heat is just below that of the melting heat, in which the carbon starts burning off. Thats when you see it spontaneously throwing sparks.
@@PhilBaumhardt good to know. Helps me relise I havent completely messed up a few projects. Its really easy to do somthing else while the steel is heating up and melt the shit out of it. Ive done this tons of time by mistake. It seems like it heats up faster when im not paying attention.
@@norwoodcraftandforge2950 happens more than I'd like, even now. With charcoal/coal forges it's always a risk. But yeah, if the steel is in the fire, your mind has to be there too.
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Excellent work nice walkthrough brother
Great work! I love the learning process
I enjoy how you go through the processes and explain why and how you do what you do. You've made some nice pieces. With some oratory work you will be a great TH-cam blacksmith.
Thanks Jacob, I'm always trying to get better. I appreciate the support despite my flaws.
I'm working on an axe based off what you did here and I had my brother hit that head while I held on to it and it made it go by so much faster!
That's awesome, great blacksmithing strategy!
Indeed worked wonders
I've got a couple of questions about these viking hand axe/ hawks. First, are you using high carbon railroad spikes (stamped HC on the head)? Second, how did they perform as hawks? Throw well? Hold an edge for long?etc...
Thanks for another great video Phil, truly helpful, and exactly what I'm looking for to break in to forging.
Yup HC marked spikes, hold an edge well enough. They throw good, tho the shorter heads can be tricky. Thanks Jim!
An anvil and a forge. Possibly a hammer. That's what I started with
Very good! Nice to see how they're actually made. (P.S. Thanks for viewing my previous video on my channel.)
very nice
try adding a piece of leaf spring into it for the cutting edge. that shit is tough..
Usually if it'll form austenite on your quench it'll harden. Many rail spikes are 1095
Top show
Good. GOD BLESS 👍
Nice work mate
The white powder what is it?
Borax it's used as flux. Keeps the scale from forming which will mess your weld up.
Could you teach us how to forge weld 2 railroad spikes on top of each other? (To make a war hammer)🤔
Cool idea, I have thought about doing a railroad spike war hammer build
You need to check it to see if it's nonmagnect and quench in warm oil or water not cold oil if you want it hard hard need a little more practice and you'll be spot on just watch how thin you get your metal cause as you see it will burn up but good job
right on dude! very cool way to make a viking axe! hey what are you quenching in? looks like beeswax or something
Close, it's rendered deer tallow.
So how exactly do we forge weld without burning all the carbon out of the steel?
My understanding is that welding heat is just below that of the melting heat, in which the carbon starts burning off. Thats when you see it spontaneously throwing sparks.
@@PhilBaumhardt good to know. Helps me relise I havent completely messed up a few projects. Its really easy to do somthing else while the steel is heating up and melt the shit out of it. Ive done this tons of time by mistake. It seems like it heats up faster when im not paying attention.
@@norwoodcraftandforge2950 happens more than I'd like, even now. With charcoal/coal forges it's always a risk. But yeah, if the steel is in the fire, your mind has to be there too.
@@PhilBaumhardt damn straight. I have a charcoal forge. Sometimes it gets around 2000 degrees
@@norwoodcraftandforge2950 nice to know I'm not the only one haha. I appreciate ya watching the video. Happy forging!
It’s a lot more hammer work when your striking surface/ anvil is not properly fastened down. I see yours is bouncing a little bit.