Have you guys thought about doing the 55 tooth tone ring as a conversion piece? I’m eyeballing the gmt900 platform again, I’d like a little longer radius arm and would plan on running 37” tires, but also don’t trust the 10 bolt c clip rear axle so would just go 8 lug wheels/axles anyways. It’s either the gmt900 or the 1st gen tundra and 1 tons in my eyes regardless.
@adambrown7741 8 lug options for Tahoverlanding kits include 3 different axle options. And there are even 2 10 lug options. All of which have a 55 tooth ABS tone ring. That's if you're married to 8 lug axles. No sense in offering a tone ring kit. And those axles won't need the brackets to be cut off, and new bracketry welded on if you use a Tahoverlanding kit. While we're on the subject of asking questions. Skip to the question at 6: 30 in this video: th-cam.com/video/i22AUGJHFss/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-CB8yRsntcdjL26D Since the Tahoverlanding Axle swap uses axles that interchange. The smart route is to swap it in 6 lug without all the unnecessary 8 lug conversion cost and effort. And then if that's not holding up, you can then swap the front to 8 lug in an afternoon. Since the brackets all interchange. Though, so far, most (if not all) 6 lug customers have not had the need to swap to 8 lug. The 6 lug, and the strength upgrade it offers over IFS has been more than enough for the overwhelming majority But if you're committed to 8 lug, you would use the 8 lug Tahoverlanding kit for your vehicle
@@tahoverlanding Absolutely love the time and effort for the reply, as well as the info packed video that you provided. I watched the whole thing (rather than skipping to just the 6:30 portion). VERY much appreciated!! My main question is, has anyone paired the 6.2 gasser NNBS with the 6 speed to the Dana 44? Lots of good info like I said, but with the over 400 ft/lbs of torque, and the deeper first gear of the 6 speed with plans to run no less than a 35-37” tire and possibly a 3:1 atlas or other tcase the smaller u joint on the Dana 44 is a slight concern. And then the weird part is axle availability. Not a whole lot of 200-2001 dodge 1500 axles in my parts that I’m seeing. That being said, all the info provided, the aam 9.25” is just as good as the Dana 60. Truth be told, more concerned with the c clip 10 bolt rear axle, than the Dana 44 up front lol
@adambrown7741 first let's talk about the C clip rear axle, we have that solution: th-cam.com/users/shortsKxILkuETFwg?si=Jv7vRMF0oMAJ9ljZ Axles like the 10.5 14 bolt, and basically every other one ton full float hang so very low, hurting off road performance. That's why we created that solution. The 2000-2001 Ram Dana 44. Uses a 1330 u joint, your 6.2 won't be an issue. We currently have a 660whp customer who isn't even running 1330, he's running 1310 The Tahoverlanding Axle swap is the only axle swap that focuses on truly correct radius arm geometry. (Through where we attach the radius arms) Which maintains a 0- degree u- Joint working angle at the pinion at all phases of the suspension cycle. And a 0- degree u joint working angle is where the u joint is the absolute strongest. 99% off u joint strength related failures happen when the u joint angle is greater than 0-degrees. As to getting an axle, LKQONLINE.COM will deliver an axle to your door. And 2000-2001 Ram 1500 axles are not terribly expensive. You mentioned the 9.25, just also know that the 8 lug Rams had the dana 60 from 1994-2002. The 9.25 came in 2003. Both are options with the Tahoverlanding kit Which GMT900 vehicle do you have? Is it a truck? Or an SUV?
No, it's not even close Not only is the pattern different The shift fork depth is different The shift fork diameter is different And the electric actuator is problematic, so running it isn't super ideal Technically the 2018+ jeep one has the same shift fork diameter but everything else is still different.
Good to know. Ever thought of using an electric actuator similar to how ox lockers use theirs? I guess Tempe issue there would be matching up the cable ends.
@DuoBart0n If you really want to do it, the best way is to get a 2018+ Jeep actuator, and wiring pig tail. I can send you a weld on flange that has the Jeep Bolt pattern. You need to weld it to the axle. And grind it smooth. The Jeep actuator can be spliced in to the GM harness, and works. But my flange is $90 The cheapest actuator is just shy of $300 Plus a $40 pig tail. You end up $400+ to have actuation that isn't 100% reliable If reliability isn't a priority, At that point, get air locker actuation solenoids, and wire them to a switch to just use the Dodge vacuum setup that's on the axle
@DuoBart0n for the record, I also don't like the OX air and electric actuator add-ons. But don't take my word for it, they send you something to thread in when they fail. Even Ox essentially says "it's not a matter of IF... it's a matter of WHEN"
The #tahoverlandingaxleswap is all about low center of gravity. Which gets the same tavel and performance without being lifted nearly as high. We haven't had to do much for the super high lifted ones
@chadroelofs8682 I realize now. That you aren't asking for a trailing arm setup. You're looking for simple adjustable control arms. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think you're calling the rear control arms "trailing arms" Or do you really want to convert the non-triangulated 4 link rear suspension to a trailing arm suspension like a trophy truck runs? That's what I thought you were asking. Take the measurement that I demonstrate in the beginning of this video, and get back to me: th-cam.com/video/75XaEhbBVQ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=stWkYTVxK1zAF24m
Have you guys thought about doing the 55 tooth tone ring as a conversion piece? I’m eyeballing the gmt900 platform again, I’d like a little longer radius arm and would plan on running 37” tires, but also don’t trust the 10 bolt c clip rear axle so would just go 8 lug wheels/axles anyways.
It’s either the gmt900 or the 1st gen tundra and 1 tons in my eyes regardless.
@adambrown7741 8 lug options for Tahoverlanding kits include 3 different axle options. And there are even 2 10 lug options. All of which have a 55 tooth ABS tone ring. That's if you're married to 8 lug axles.
No sense in offering a tone ring kit.
And those axles won't need the brackets to be cut off, and new bracketry welded on if you use a Tahoverlanding kit.
While we're on the subject of asking questions. Skip to the question at 6: 30 in this video:
th-cam.com/video/i22AUGJHFss/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-CB8yRsntcdjL26D
Since the Tahoverlanding Axle swap uses axles that interchange. The smart route is to swap it in 6 lug without all the unnecessary 8 lug conversion cost and effort.
And then if that's not holding up, you can then swap the front to 8 lug in an afternoon. Since the brackets all interchange.
Though, so far, most (if not all) 6 lug customers have not had the need to swap to 8 lug.
The 6 lug, and the strength upgrade it offers over IFS has been more than enough for the overwhelming majority
But if you're committed to 8 lug, you would use the 8 lug Tahoverlanding kit for your vehicle
@@tahoverlanding Absolutely love the time and effort for the reply, as well as the info packed video that you provided. I watched the whole thing (rather than skipping to just the 6:30 portion). VERY much appreciated!!
My main question is, has anyone paired the 6.2 gasser NNBS with the 6 speed to the Dana 44? Lots of good info like I said, but with the over 400 ft/lbs of torque, and the deeper first gear of the 6 speed with plans to run no less than a 35-37” tire and possibly a 3:1 atlas or other tcase the smaller u joint on the Dana 44 is a slight concern.
And then the weird part is axle availability. Not a whole lot of 200-2001 dodge 1500 axles in my parts that I’m seeing. That being said, all the info provided, the aam 9.25” is just as good as the Dana 60. Truth be told, more concerned with the c clip 10 bolt rear axle, than the Dana 44 up front lol
@adambrown7741 first let's talk about the C clip rear axle, we have that solution:
th-cam.com/users/shortsKxILkuETFwg?si=Jv7vRMF0oMAJ9ljZ
Axles like the 10.5 14 bolt, and basically every other one ton full float hang so very low, hurting off road performance. That's why we created that solution.
The 2000-2001 Ram Dana 44. Uses a 1330 u joint, your 6.2 won't be an issue. We currently have a 660whp customer who isn't even running 1330, he's running 1310
The Tahoverlanding Axle swap is the only axle swap that focuses on truly correct radius arm geometry. (Through where we attach the radius arms) Which maintains a 0- degree u- Joint working angle at the pinion at all phases of the suspension cycle. And a 0- degree u joint working angle is where the u joint is the absolute strongest. 99% off u joint strength related failures happen when the u joint angle is greater than 0-degrees.
As to getting an axle, LKQONLINE.COM will deliver an axle to your door. And 2000-2001 Ram 1500 axles are not terribly expensive.
You mentioned the 9.25, just also know that the 8 lug Rams had the dana 60 from 1994-2002. The 9.25 came in 2003. Both are options with the Tahoverlanding kit
Which GMT900 vehicle do you have? Is it a truck? Or an SUV?
Is the bolt pattern not the same on a newer dodge with the electric 4wd actuator to replace the cad instead of the posilock system?
No, it's not even close
Not only is the pattern different
The shift fork depth is different
The shift fork diameter is different
And the electric actuator is problematic, so running it isn't super ideal
Technically the 2018+ jeep one has the same shift fork diameter but everything else is still different.
Good to know. Ever thought of using an electric actuator similar to how ox lockers use theirs? I guess Tempe issue there would be matching up the cable ends.
@DuoBart0n If you really want to do it, the best way is to get a 2018+ Jeep actuator, and wiring pig tail.
I can send you a weld on flange that has the Jeep Bolt pattern. You need to weld it to the axle. And grind it smooth. The Jeep actuator can be spliced in to the GM harness, and works.
But my flange is $90
The cheapest actuator is just shy of $300
Plus a $40 pig tail.
You end up $400+ to have actuation that isn't 100% reliable
If reliability isn't a priority, At that point, get air locker actuation solenoids, and wire them to a switch to just use the Dodge vacuum setup that's on the axle
@@tahoverlanding I’m more than likely going to go the posilock route. I tend to overcomplicate things in the planning stages.
@DuoBart0n for the record, I also don't like the OX air and electric actuator add-ons.
But don't take my word for it, they send you something to thread in when they fail.
Even Ox essentially says "it's not a matter of IF... it's a matter of WHEN"
Have u ever made the rear trailing arms longer on a 2000 plus Tahoe to center the rear axle after lifting if so what did you use thanks
The #tahoverlandingaxleswap is all about low center of gravity. Which gets the same tavel and performance without being lifted nearly as high. We haven't had to do much for the super high lifted ones
@@tahoverlanding mine isn't real tall just a couple of inches on 37s but when I trail ride the tire gets into the front part of the opening
@chadroelofs8682 I realize now. That you aren't asking for a trailing arm setup. You're looking for simple adjustable control arms.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
I think you're calling the rear control arms "trailing arms"
Or do you really want to convert the non-triangulated 4 link rear suspension to a trailing arm suspension like a trophy truck runs?
That's what I thought you were asking.
Take the measurement that I demonstrate in the beginning of this video, and get back to me:
th-cam.com/video/75XaEhbBVQ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=stWkYTVxK1zAF24m
@@tahoverlanding ya does anyone offer them that you know of
@@chadroelofs8682 we can supply them one-off, or you can build your own.
Like I said, get that measurement to me, let's go from there